For my first 'long-distance' trip of the year, I returned to the fine county of Lincolnshire, an area that, thus far, has been criminally under-represented in these pages. In terms of beginning to put this right, I decided to visit a place whose reputation as a lovely part of the country has long preceded it. A place where history, pubs and gorgeous aesthetics collide in equal measure. I would be putting Stamford to the test.
Stamford is a town and civil parish in the South Kesteven District of Lincolnshire. The population at the 2011 census was 19,701 and estimated at 20,645 in 2019. The town has 17th- and 18th-century stone buildings, older timber-framed buildings and five medieval parish churches. It is a frequent film location. In 2013 it was rated a top place to live in a survey by The Sunday Times. Its name has been passed on to Stamford, Connecticut, founded in 1641.
The Romans built Ermine Street across what is now Burghley Park and forded the River Welland to the west of Stamford, eventually reaching Lincoln. They also built a town to the north at Great Casterton on the River Gwash. In 61 CE Boudica followed the Roman legion Legio IX Hispana across the river. The Anglo-Saxons later chose Stamford as the main town, being on a larger river than the Gwash.
The place-name Stamford is first attested in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, where it appears as Steanford in 922 and Stanford in 942. It appears as Stanford in the Domesday Book of 1086. The name means "stony ford".
In 972 King Edgar made Stamford a borough. The Anglo-Saxons and Danes faced each other across the river. The town had grown as a Danish settlement at the lowest point that the Welland could be crossed by ford or bridge. Stamford was the only one of the Five Boroughs of the Danelaw not to become a county town. Initially a pottery centre making Stamford Ware, it had gained fame by the Middle Ages for its production of the woollen cloth known as Stamford cloth or haberget, which "In Henry III's reign... was well known in Venice." Stamford was a walled town, but only a small portion of the wall remains. Stamford became an inland port on the Great North Road, the latter superseding Ermine Street in importance. Notable buildings in the town include the medieval Browne's Hospital, several churches and the buildings of Stamford School, a public school founded in 1532. A Norman castle was built about 1075 and apparently demolished in 1484. The site stood derelict until the late 20th century, when it was built over and now includes a bus station and a modern housing development. A small part of the curtain wall survives at the junction of Castle Dyke and Bath Row.
In 1333–1334, a group of students and tutors from Merton and Brasenose colleges, dissatisfied with conditions at the university, left Oxford to found a rival college at Stamford. Oxford and Cambridge universities petitioned Edward III, and the King ordered the closure of the college and the return of the students to Oxford. MA students at Oxford were obliged to take an oath: "You shall also swear that you will not read lectures, or hear them read, at Stamford, as in a University study, or college general." This remained in force until 1827. The site and limited remains of the former Brazenose College, Stamford, where Oxford secessionists lived and studied, now form part of Stamford School.
Stamford has been hosting an annual fair since the Middle Ages. It is mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV, Part 2 (Act 3, Scene 2). Held in mid-Lent, it is now the largest street fair in Lincolnshire and among the largest in the country. On 7 March 1190, men at the fair who were preparing to go on the crusade led a pogrom, in which several of the Stamford Jews were killed, and the rest, who escaped with difficulty, were given refuge in the castle. Their houses, however, were plundered, and a great quantity of money was seized.
By the early 1500s the wool and broadcloth industry in England, on which Stamford depended, had declined significantly. Stamford was sufficiently poor, financially and demographically, that in 1548 it had to amalgamate its eleven parishes into six and its population had reduced to 800.
However, by the second half of the 17th century, after almost 150 years of stagnation, the population started to increase. As Stamford emerged into the 17th century, leather and fibre working (in the widest sense; weavers, ropers and tailors) were the main activities along with wood and stone working.
In the 1660s the various efforts to make the River Welland navigable again were finally successful. Stamford then became a centre for the malting trade as the barley from nearby fenlands to the east and heathlands to the north and west could make its way more easily and cheaper to the town.
The Great North Road passed through Stamford. It had always been a halting town for travellers; Henry VIII, Queen Elizabeth, James I and Charles I all passed through and it had been a post station for the postal service journey in Elizabeth's reign. By the later 17th century roads start to be used more for longer distance travelling. In 1663 an Act of Parliament was passed to set up turnpikes on the Great North Road, and this was to make a notable difference to Stamford's fortunes in the following century. During the English Civil War local loyalties were split. Thomas Hatcher MP was a Parliamentarian. Royalists used Wothorpe and Burghley as defensive positions. In the summer of 1643 the Royalists were besieged at Burghley on 24 July after a defeat at Peterborough on 19 July. The army of Viscount Campden was heavily outnumbered and surrendered the following day.
For over 600 years Stamford was the site of the Stamford bull run, held annually on 13 November, St Brice's day, until 1839. Local tradition says it began after William de Warenne, 5th Earl of Surrey had seen two bulls fighting in the meadow beneath his castle. Some butchers came to part the combatants and one bull ran into the town. The earl mounted his horse and rode after the animal; he enjoyed the sport so much that he gave the meadow where the fight began to the butchers of Stamford, on condition that they continue to provide a bull to be run in the town every 13 November.
The East Coast Main Line would have gone through Stamford, as an important postal town at the time, but resistance led to routing it instead through Peterborough, whose importance and size increased at Stamford's expense.
During the Second World War, the area round Stamford contained several military sites, including RAF station, airborne encampments and a prisoner-of-war camp. Within the town, Rock House held the headquarters of Stanisław Sosabowski and the staff of the Polish 1st Independent Parachute Brigade. A memorial plaque was unveiled there in 2004. A 2,000lb bomb was dropped on St Leonard St on 31 October 1940, which never exploded. 1,000 people were evacuated, until 3 November 1940.
Stamford Museum occupied a Victorian building in Broad Street from 1980 until June 2011, when it succumbed to Lincolnshire County Council budget cuts. Some exhibits have been moved to a "Discover Stamford" space at the town library and to Stamford Town Hall.
The weather for my trip to this fine corner of Lincolnshire was considerably better than the inclement weather I faced on my last outing. Whilst it was still cold, it was noticeably drier and more settled, just as well seeing as the country has been battered by two storms in the past week. Stamford is relatively easy to reach by train, although it did involve a change at Leicester and a half an hour wait. I was hopeful that my train journey would be significantly less stressful than it had been when I had attempted to get from Coventry, the last time I put my faith in the British railway system. I arrived in the town slightly before midday and I was eager to get to work. Stepping out of Stamford station, it was already clear that this would be one of the most picturesque places I'd ever visited. Would it live up to its hype? Are its pubs worthy of a visit? Come with me now, friends, as we dig deeper.
Leaving the station, I crossed the road and made my way down a street of stone houses that would not have been out of place in a Hallmark film. I followed the road round to the right, eventually reaching Wothorpe Road, where I again turned right. Upon arriving at the junction with Kettering Road, I turned left and then turned left again at the end of the road. I had now arrived, in a rather circular way, on the High Street, the central route through the centre of the town. I had deliberately gone about this in a slightly awkward way to ensure that I did not miss out my first intended stop. On the right hand side, I soon spotted the location where my day's explorations would begin: the Bull & Swan.
This 17th century coaching inn is now operated by the Hillbrooke Hotel chain, having undergone a £200,000 refurbishment by Burghley Estates in 2010 and reopening the following year. It has retained several original features throughout, including the archway through which coaches would have entered. Passing under this provides access to the building via a door to one side. This leads through into a traditional bar area and its interconnecting rooms, three in total, which are all decorated with brass and copper. A small bar is in the first room, opposite a number of comfy chairs in front of a bay window as well as a real fire. Beyond this room, a raised area features a fireplace, more seating and a pair of antlers mounted on the wall. The third room can be found around the bar and there is a separate restaurant. There is a large patio garden to the rear and accommodation can be found in rooms above. The toilets are accessed through a door to the left of the bar. Mind your head! The traditional features do not lend themselves to easy access for people of a certain height. I was very pleased, upon walking in, to see a bank of 4 handpulls on the bar, with half of these available. My first choices for the day would be between Nene Valley Blonde Session Ale and Grainstore Ten Fifty. As a rule, I don't tend to go for anything under 4% but it seemed a tad early in the day to go straight for the 5% beer and so the Nene Valley won out. At 3.8%, this turned out to be the perfect beer to start the day. This is a light golden session ale with a finish of refreshing citrus hop. It's an excellent thirst quencher and perfect enjoyed in an environment just such as this. I was impressed by the ambience of the Bull & Swan. Despite being the only customer (it was early after all), I couldn't help but feel immersed in the history and it was easy to imagine a weary traveller disembarking from a carriage outside and stomping through the door in search of sustenance and a place to rest their tired bones.
My first stop in Stamford had been a success and I was hoping for more of the same at my next destination. Leaving the Bull & Swan, I turned right and continued along the High Street. After a few yards, I spotted a crossroads and my next stop was clearly visible. Next on the itinerary was the very old George Hotel.
Formerly a coaching inn, this Grade II* listed building is believed to be at least 900 years old. It is possible that a hostelry existed on the site as early as 947 but the exact date of the current building cannot be ascertained. A hospital of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem stood here and was partly destroyed during the Wars of the Roses. The hospital itself was associated with Peterborough Abbey. The main block of the building was rebuilt in 1597 by William Cecil, 1st Baron Burghley but is believed to have incorporated fragments of the earlier structure. Charles I stayed at the George in 1645 and a cockfighting pit was also built. The building became a coaching inn during the 18th century and was visited by Daniel Defoe who referred to it as 'one of the greatest inns in England'. Daniel Lambert, one of the heaviest people in history, who died in Stamford, was also a former customer as was William III. The hotel is spread over three storeys and incorporates the building next door, which is also Grade II* listed. The interior of the hotel includes the remains of a medieval hall, probably from the 14th century. The changing centuries can be seen in the architecture of this fine building. The hotel still features a famous, and rare, 'gallows' style sign that spans the nearby road. I have only seen two other examples of this elsewhere, namely at the now-closed Green Man & Black's Head in Ashbourne and at Ye Olde Starre Inne, in York. Given the history of this place, and its illustrious guest list, it's perhaps no surprise that it is rumoured to be haunted. A ghostly female form has been seen on many occasions. Who she is and why she haunts are currently a mystery, though she seems to confine herself to the hotel part of the building. Stepping into the George felt like stepping back in time. I entered through the front door and immediately turned right into the bar. I instantly felt very under-dressed. Amongst the hotel guests having lunch, and the locals who'd popped in for a drink, I stuck out like a sore thumb. They were in their smart trousers and suit jackets and I'd wandered in off the street with my Skechers, jeans and Baltimore Ravens hoodie. Still, I was given a warm welcome so that's always a plus. The room that contains the bar is square and relatively small. The bar occupies one end of the room and there are comfy chairs and round tables in the space opposite. Banquette seating can be found under both of the windows. The decor is in keeping with the hotel's age. There are exposed beams, original panelling, sash windows and ship-style lanterns on the walls, providing the illumination. The weight of history and the age of the building can be felt as soon as you walk in. They sell decent beer too! The bar features a trio of handpulls. At the time of my arrival, these were offering Lacons Legacy, Grainstore Triple B and Adnams Broadside. I quickly decided to go fairly local again this time and went for the Triple B from Grainstore, based in nearby Oakham. Luckily, one of the banquette seats was free so I retreated to the window and soaked up the atmosphere. I hadn't been sure what to expect here but it was certainly worth the visit. The Triple B was very good. This is a very drinkable best bitter with a balanced combination of sweetness from the malt and a clean, hoppy aftertaste. It's only 4.2% and it went down very easily indeed!
It seemed a shame to leave the George. It's a cracking place to have a beer! I was genuinely really surprised by how much I liked it there. Perhaps I shouldn't have been. After all, it ticked all the boxes of what I really like about pubs. I was feeling hopeful that there would be more of the same to come. Turning left out of the George, I continued down the High Street, crossing the River Welland and continuing uphill. At the top of the hill, with a church on my right, I followed the road round to the left and continued on. I was now on St. John's Street. A few yards further on, at a road junction, pub number three would soon appear. Next stop, The London Inn.
Dating back to the 1930s, the pub was originally built for Phipps Brewery in Northampton but is now privately owned. The road outside the pub was formerly part of the Great North Road. After a lengthy refurbishment, the pub reopened in 2011 and has recently changed hands again after a short period of closure. There are two entrances, one at the corner and another to the rear, both of which bring you through into the main part of the pub. A series of booths occupy one side of the room with access to the elevated beer garden and patio beyond this. The bar is long and runs along one side of the room. Barrel tables and high stools act as seating directly in front of the bar. To one side, a snug-style area features long wooden benches and high tables. The decoration is bright, airy and modern, with slogans and old beer adverts displayed throughout. Further seating can be found up a staircase opposite the bar whereas the toilets are downstairs. The bar here features 5 hand pumps. Of these, 4 of them were in use when I dropped in, with a focus on Cornish beers, unusually for the area, although one local brewer was represented. The options here were a trio from Sharp's, specifically Solar Wave, Doom Bar and Atlantic, alongside Oakham Bishop's Farewell (4.6%). It was to the latter that my attention would turn. It had been some time since I last had this particular beer and I wasn't about to pass that opportunity up. It turned out to be a good choice. It was as smooth, rich and fruity as I remembered, with the same refreshing finish. It's always good when you go back to a beer that you haven't had for a bit and it still evokes the same emotions. The London Inn certainly seems to be in capable hands. Despite the fact that the pub is a relative whippersnapper in comparison to some others, it too has retained an echo of its past. Staff have reported disembodied footsteps on the upper floor when locking up at night, alongside the fleeting glimpse of a woman in black who is more often seen out of the corner of the eye, and whom staff have affectionately named Mary. On one occasion, she was seen entering the ladies toilet. When she didn't emerge for several minutes, a concerned customer went to check that everything was OK, only to find the toilets empty. A curious tale indeed.
Leaving the London Inn in my wake, I continued on my way, this time walking alongside the front of the previous pub, emerging into an open square known as Sheep Market. Conveniently, it would turn out that two of the pubs on my planned route sit next to each other so I would be able to visit them in quick succession and make my afternoon a touch easier. The first of these adjacent hostelries was The Golden Fleece.
This listed building has been a pub since 1846 and is now owned and operated by Everards. The local wool market was held outside until 1930, hence the name of the surrounding area. Inside, the pub is essentially two rooms. The first, to the front, is a lounge-style space served by a central bar. Behind this is an area exclusively reserved for dining, although the lounge caters comfortably for drinkers. Seating is a combination of scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. The front room also features a jukebox and dartboard. Toilets can be found at either side of the bar. This being an Everards pub, their beers are prominently featured. 9 handpulls sit on the bar, split into 2 banks of 4 and with one standing alone. On the day of my visit, these were offering doubled up Everards beers, in the shape of Sunchaser and Tiger with the standalone handpump offering Rosie's Pig cider. After a couple of minutes of waiting whilst some food was taken out to tables, and having been greeted by a local, I was served and selected the Tiger, normally a guarantee of a good pint. It was also available here in keg form, something which I'd never previously come across. I took my beer to a table over to one side of the door and confirmed, quite quickly, that the Tiger was every bit as good as you'd expect it to be on its 'home turf'. I've rarely had a bad pint of Tiger and it's nice to see Everards continuing to maintain the quality of one of its flagship beers after all this time.
Tiger supped, it was time to pop next door. This turned out to be one of two entrances to a pub that was originally scheduled for later in the day but, given that I was already here, it wouldn't have affected much to move things round a little. Without much further ado, I entered The Millstone.
This large pub dates from the 17th century and was a previously an important station for carriers in the area. It has retained some of its original features, in particular the beamed ceiling and slightly split-level layout. The rear garden, through which I entered, features covered smoking shelters and also has a wall-mounted TV, no doubt put to good use on much warmer days than this. Inside, more TVs can be found. The layout is of several smaller areas around a bar at one end of the room. The interior is broken up with the internal pillars. A snug-like space looks out into the garden and is adjacent to the toilets. The pub has recently acquired a new landlord and this has apparently had a positive impact on the beer choice across the 4 handpulls. Approaching the bar up a small flight of stairs, I was confronted with Grainstore Ten Fifty, Oakham Citra, Timothy Taylor Landlord and St. Austell Tribute. Given this was its first appearance of the day so far, I couldn't resist the call of Citra. This was served to me by the very friendly lady behind the bar with the disclaimer that it was pouring slightly hazy but still tasted fine. By way of explanation, I was told that the barrel in which it came had been dislodged in the cellar. No worries. As long as it's drinkable, I was sure it would be fine. It turns out that it was. I enjoyed my Citra, sat in the snug and watching Sky Sports News on the nearby TV. This could have been an excellent beer but, with the haze meaning it wasn't in optimum condition, I have no choice but to deduct a point. Still, I'd rather staff be honest about the beer quality. It was still my choice to drink the beer, after all.
I had a little bit more walking to do now although, to be fair, not much. Leaving the Millstone the way I had come, I turned right and continued on my way, passing the local bus station on my left. A few yards further along All Saints Street, I came across a passageway, Foundry Lane, on my right. Turning into this and continuing on, I emerged on Foundry Road, opposite the Jolly Brewer.
Retracing my steps, I headed back down Foundry Lane and turned left, this time continuing directly down All Saints Street, until I reached All Saints Church, looming over the busy road. In the shadow of this edifice, lay my next two destinations, effectively sister pubs, located side by side. The first of these was the Crown Hotel.
This is a very solid-looking three storey building, operated by Knead Pubs, who run a number of premises in the town. Inside, a mosaic tiled lobby leads into a large, open-plan space with the bar to the rear and dining areas to both sides. The front of the bar caters primarily for drinkers and boasts long, low benches and high tables and stools, alongside sofas, in terms of seating. The toilets are located down a corridor to one side of the bar and the walls throughout are decorated with items linked to rural pursuits, including a bicycle mounted on the wall. Other quirky touches include chandeliers made of empty bottles. The trio of handpulls on the bar were all in use when I arrived, offering a choice between St. Austell Tribute, Oakham Citra and Timothy Taylor Landlord. This time I went for the Tribute and moved over to a high sofa roughly between the bar and toilets. The Crown Hotel is a nice place. During my visit it was quiet but it caters for lots of functions and this is easily the sort of place that would do a very good job of dealing with large events. It was a shame therefore that the Tribute was slightly warmer than I would have liked. Whether this was down to the glassware or an issue with cellar cooling remains to be seen. The Tribute was drinkable enough however and I whiled away a good few minutes here, primarily watching the bar staff fob off a sales rep.
Upon leaving the Crown, my next location stood literally next door. Another Knead Pubs business, this is Paten & Co.
Beer drank and phone topped up with battery, I headed out, this time to a place that had been a late addition to the itinerary. I left Paten & Co. and turned right, heading up a narrow road that leads between the adjacent pubs and leads away from the church. Following this road around eventually brought me to Broad Street where, halfway down, you can find the Lord Burghley.
A conversion of an 18th century building, the pub has retained many of its original features, with reclaimed materials used for the rest. It is named after the ancestral owner of nearby Burghley House. Inside, the pub is large with multiple rooms and two fireplaces. The main room, around the single bar, features a TV and dartboard. To the rear are two further spaces, one with comfortable seating and large windows and another, smaller room, with bare furniture and exposed beams, decorated with sports trophies and other assorted objects. To the rear is a large patio, half of which is covered and heated, which also has a TV. Outside is also where the toilets are located, in an adjoining outbuilding. The bar features 6 handpulls. 5 of these were in use when I wandered in and offered a choice of Grainstore Ten Fifty, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Fuller's London Pride, Sharp's Doom Bar and Oakham JHB. I thought it was about time that I gave the Ten Fifty a go and I ordered this and then made my way into the smaller room off of the main bar. As mentioned, the Lord Burghley was a late addition to the list but it proved to be a good one. It's welcoming, cosy and comfortable. Plus there was a dog, specifically a Doberman called Zeus, that kept barking for attention. I was glad that I'd made the effort to stop off here. It's nice when a 'wild card' turns out to be a good decision. The beer here backed my decision further. Ten Fifty (5%) is a mahogany coloured beer with pronounced hop bitterness and a natural malty sweetness. All in all, it's a very balanced, thoroughly enjoyable beer.
Next up on my list was a pub that I'd been very much looking forward to since I first began planning my Stamford trip. To find it, I needed to complete a short walk from Broad Street to St. John's Street. There can be found the Tobie Norris.
One of the oldest buildings in Stamford, parts of this building date back to around 1280. In 1617, it was bought by Tobias 'Tobie' Norris, after whom it is named, and used as a bell foundry. It was used by an RAF association from the 1950s until it was converted into a pub in 2005 by Mick Thurlby. The resulting conversion saw the pub win CAMRA's Best National Pub Restoration Award in 2008, the same year it was named Peterborough CAMRA Pub of the Year. The pub is another in the Knead Pub Co. estate and is listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. Boasting 7 rooms across its two floors, it has been restored, spectacularly, to its former glory. Entering through a very narrow front entrance, brings you into a central corridor. To the right, is a room for both dining and drinking, featuring low, wooden pews for seating and wooden tables. The floors throughout are a mixture of wood and flagstones. The corridor leads to the rear, where there is further seating and access to a garden. To the left of the entrance is the bar area with another, smaller room to the left of this, featuring recycled church seating, and more wooden tables. This room sits directly under one of the original windows to the street out the front and the whole pub is decorated with old posters, advertisements, street signs and various other objects of interest, including paintings and old clocks. On the bar itself, is a bank of 6 hand pumps. I was very pleased to see that 5 of these were in use. My choices here were Titanic Plum Porter, Nene Valley Bitter, Oakham Citra, Hopshackle Special Bitter and Lilley's Merry Monkey cider. Again, payment here is by card or mobile only. As tempting as the Plum Porter was, Special Bitter, from Market Deeping based Hopshackle, was a new beer for me so it would have been remiss not to give it a try. This I did, whilst secreting myself in the aforementioned room to the side of the bar. I had chosen wisely. This is a sensational beer. At 4.3%, it's a traditional brown coloured English bitter with complex flavours of fruit and malt and a dry, bitter finish. Black treacle is added to the brew and it gives a whole new dimension of sweet bitterness. It's an absolute triumph! I barely had two sips and it seemed to have disappeared! The Tobie Norris is a standout pub. The owners and the renovators have been rightly commended for the job they have done here. They're turned this place into something very special indeed. I didn't even manage to look in all the rooms, such was my amazement as the ones I did actually manage to see. I can heartily recommend dropping in here for a visit. It's a gem.
As painful as it was to leave the Tobie Norris, I had two more pubs to visit before my return train. Making my way back down St Johns Street, I found myself approaching the opposite end of the town centre, indicated by the empty shell of a former Wilko. Here I turned left, onto Maiden Lane, passing another church, next to which sits the King's Head.
This family-run free-house occupies a 19th century stone-built building. Inside, there is one room, slightly split level, with a couple of tables opposite a small bar in the raised area, and further seating in the lower level. The ceiling features original wooden beams, there is a wood burning stove and a sun trap garden to the rear, which includes cover and heating to help against the traditionally unpredictable British weather. Though the pub is small, its reputation for beer and food more than makes up for it. I would soon be putting that reputation to the test (the beer part of it anyway). The pub operates a 'one barrel' policy and served over 400 beers in the two years since it started doing so. Once a beer is gone, it is gone! The pub also operates a form of table service, whereby drinking is not allowed at the bar. Staff will come to the table and take orders directly. Whether this is a holdover from COVID times or a way of coping with the pub's small size, I'm unsure. However, such is the King's Head's reputation, it was named CAMRA Branch Town Pub of the Year for 2022. It is also listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. I entered the pub to find it empty, with the exception of the member of staff on duty, who was busily working on a chalkboard. I was greeted pleasantly and made my way to the bar where I spied a group of 5 handpulls, 3 of which were in use. One of these hosted Rutland Cider whilst the others featured beers from Baker's Dozen, a brewery that is based in the town itself. On offer were their Sinc Stream and Stamford Pale. I went for the latter, a 4% pale ale, and moved to a round table directly opposite the bar. A brief chat with the member of staff elicited that the pub isn't normally as quiet as that. Likely, everyone is gearing up for pay weekend, something that hospitality businesses eagerly await as everyone returns to the pubs at the end of January after being bankrupted by Christmas and New Year. So far, I could see why the pub is so highly regarded. The beer would also prove the point. Baker's Dozen are a two-person microbrewery and Stamford Pale is a pale ale, single hopped with Cascade. It's very fruity, well-balanced and very easy drinking! I was impressed with the King's Head. Leaving this and the Tobie Norris to the latter part of the day had definitely paid off. I had one destination left to visit and it would be different to anywhere I'd been so far.
Leaving the King's Head, begrudgingly it must be said, I continued down Maiden Lane. This eventually brought me back to the top of St. Mary's Hill, in the shadow of the church I'd first encountered after leaving the George several hours before. Opposite the church, in a rather nondescript building, is Stamford's only micropub, The Copper Room.
Firstly, a disclaimer. I knew full well that I would not find real ale here. I was purely curious as to how a micropub would fit in in the surroundings of Stamford and what a micropub in this area would look like. Whilst the row of buildings that house the Copper Room are old, the pub itself opened in 2018. Its focus is very much on keg beers. There are no hand pumps and a lot of the keg beers are well known national brands, although it does feature local KeyKeg beers on draught. The bar is to the left of the door as you enter, with a seating area opposite, one side hidden behind a partition. The seating consists primarily of low tables and sofas, although there are a couple of converted barrels, with highbacked stools, in close proximity to the bar. One of these, where I would ultimately end up sitting, has a top decorated with two pence pieces under a glass tabletop. A doorway to the rear leads to the toilets. I took a moment to peruse the, admittedly very well stocked, bar and noticed keg beers available from Baker's Dozen. Having enjoyed my beer at the King's Head, it made sense to see what else they had to offer and so I selected Undertow (4.8%), their interpretation of a New England IPA, hopped with Nelson Sauvin and Citra. I took my beer to the barrel table, pulled up a stool and settled in. I had some time to kill before my train back so this seemed as good a place as any to spend it. The beer was delicious. It had all the hoppiness and subtle bitter notes you'd expect from the style, as well as the accompanying haze. Baker's Dozen are definitely a brewery I'll be keeping an eye on. The Copper Room, despite its lack of real ale, is a pleasant enough place. It occupies a handy niche in the town and there was clearly a gap in the market for this kind of venue in Stamford. It also happened to be playing an alternative rock playlist which is always good, although it did inexplicably play the same My Chemical Romance song that had come on in the Jolly Brewer earlier. No, I don't want to join the Black Parade!
Before too long, with both my beer supply and my wits exhausted, I bade farewell to The Copper Room and made the short walk back to the station where, I was able to return home, again via Leicester with nothing dramatic happening beyond a 10 minute delay to my connecting train. What did I make of Stamford? Are the plaudits and the praise of the town justified? In a nutshell, I would certainly say so. The town itself is lovely and I'm very glad that I was able to visit somewhere that I'd heard a lot about and see it for myself in all its glory. Clearly, it can be argued that the beer scene in Stamford is in rude health too. Laying as it does, between Peterborough and Oakham, two other locations with a burgeoning beer scene, it makes sense that Stamford would find itself caught in the spillover. Every venue I visited was different enough to each other to allow them all to thrive and that, really, is what beer locations should be about. There should be something for everyone. Anyone should be able to find their niche and find something that suits them. On this evidence, Stamford really might be one of those towns that not just welcomes anyone, but benefits everyone.
Pub of the day: The Tobie Norris. This was a close run thing between here and the King's Head but the Tobie Norris just edges it.
Beer of the day: Hopshackle Special Bitter. Without a doubt. It's sensational.
Biggest surprise: The George. Even knowing a bit of the history didn't prepare me for how impressive this place is.
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