Tuesday, April 28, 2026

Barns-stormin!

Recent months have seen me develop a distinct fondness for Yorkshire, as the frequent entries here have no doubt made abundantly clear. So it should come as no real surprise that, mere weeks after a successful Sheffield jaunt, I was heading north again, back into the depths of said county. The location of this most recent excursion was somewhere considerably less well trodden and somewhere that, at first glance, might not appear to offer much for the intrepid beer explorer. Appearances are known for their deception however and there really is no real way to know a place without stepping foot there in person. The target of this exploration would be the town of Barnsley, somewhere that I sensed would potentially be a real contrast to the larger Yorkshire settlements but would also provide more of an insight into the realities of the area's drinking culture, and perhaps a different spin on things to what I had become accustomed to in places such as Sheffield, where the beer reputation very much speaks for itself. I would not be alone on this endeavour though. I would once again be joined by my good friend Dog but we would also be accompanied by a new member of this ever expanding cast of pub trip companions, namely Dog's friend John. Together, as a trio, we would all be visiting Barnsley for the first time, in search of good beer, good stories and much else besides. You might be wondering what there is to know about Barnsley. Allow me to enlighten you. 

Barnsley is a market town in South Yorkshire. It is the main settlement of the Metropolitan Borough of Barnsley and the fourth largest settlement in South Yorkshire. The town's population was recorded as 71,422 at the 2021 census, while the wider borough had a population of 244,600.

Historically in the West Riding of Yorkshire, Barnsley is located on the M1 corridor between the cities of Sheffield to the south and Wakefield to the north. Doncaster lies to the east, Huddersfield to the north-west and Manchester lies west across the Peak District, to which it is connected to via the A628 road.

Barnsley's former industries include linen, coal mining, glass making and textiles. Its culture is rooted in its industrial heritage and has a tradition of brass bands, originally created as social clubs by its mining communities.

The name Barnsley derives from the Old English BeornslÄ“ah meaning 'Beorn's wood or clearing'.

Following the Norman invasion of 1066, many abbeys and priories were built in Yorkshire. Norman landowners increased their revenues and established new towns such as Barnsley, Doncaster, Hull, Leeds, Scarborough and Sheffield. Of towns founded before the conquest, only Bridlington, Pocklington, and York continued at a prominent level.

Although settlements had been established in the Barnsley area for centuries prior, and was a well known centre to trade, the first reference to Barnsley occurs in 1086 in the Domesday Book, in which it is called Berneslai and has a population of around 200.

The town was in the parish of Silkstone and developed little until in the 1150s, when it was given to the Pontefract Priory. The monks built a town where three roads met: the Sheffield to Wakefield, Rotherham to Huddersfield and Cheshire to Doncaster routes. The Domesday village became known as Old Barnsley, and a town grew up on the new site.

The monks erected a chapel of ease dedicated to Saint Mary, which survived until 1820, and established a market. In 1249, a Royal charter was granted to Barnsley permitting it to hold a weekly market on Wednesdays and annual four-day fair at Michaelmas. By the 1290s, three annual fairs were held. The town was the centre of the Staincross wapentake but, in the mid-16th century, it had only 600 inhabitants.

From the 17th century, Barnsley developed into a stop-off point on the route between Leeds, Wakefield, Sheffield and London. The traffic generated as a result of its location fuelled trade, with hostelries and related services prospering. A principal centre for linen-weaving during the 18th and 19th century, Barnsley grew into an important manufacturing town.

The first passenger station to serve Barnsley was opened by the North Midland Railway in 1840. Barnsley station (later called Cudworth) was located some 2+12 miles (4 km) away at Cudworth. On 1 January 1850, the Manchester and Leeds Railway opened Barnsley Exchange station, close to the town centre. On 1 May 1870, the Midland Railway opened Regent Street station, a temporary structure. A new station was opened by the MR on the Regent Street site on 23 August 1873. As it incorporated the old court house in its construction, Regent Street station was renamed Barnsley Court House.

Barnsley became a municipal borough in 1869 and a county borough in 1913. The town's boundaries were extended to absorb Ardsley and Monk Bretton in 1921, and Carlton in 1938.

The town was the site of a human crush that resulted in the deaths of 16 children in 1908 at a public hall, now known as The Civic, when children were rushing to watch a film in the building.

Barnsley has a long tradition of glass-making, however Barnsley is most famous for its coal mines. In 1960, there were 70 collieries within a 15 miles (24 km) radius of Barnsley town centre, but the last of these closed in 1994. The National Union of Mineworkers still has its HQ in Barnsley.

George Orwell mentioned the town in The Road to Wigan Pier. He arrived in the town on 11 March 1936 and spent a number of days living in the houses of the working class miners, while researching for the book. He wrote very critically of the council's expenditure on the construction of Barnsley Town Hall and claimed that the money should have been spent on improving the housing and living conditions of the local miners.

Situated between major cities but also having the air of somewhere a bit more rural, we were intrigued to see what Barnsley had to offer. Would it be a hidden gem and a must visit destination for the beer adventurer? Or would it be a victim of industrial decline with nothing much to shout about amongst its many drinking establishments? We would find out soon enough but first, as ever, there was the process of getting there. Handily, Barnsley is situated on a major rail route and served by regular trains from Nottingham. The journey time is around an hour and 20 minutes, via Sheffield. We had chosen the 10.17 train to be our carriage of choice and we were deposited at Barnsley station within the predicted timeframe. We were eager to get exploring and get our bearings. Predictably, upon arrival, my phone instantly crashed, leaving us without a map until I got it rebooted. Hopefully this would not be a sign of things to come. Making our way out of the station, through the wrong exit it soon turned out, we turned right and followed some convenient signage in the direction of the town centre. My phone shortly got its act together and allowed us to figure out that we'd gone slightly the wrong way. However, this was easily rectified by crossing a nearby pedestrian bridge over the railway line. This bridge, fairly new and recently opened is dedicated to, and named after, Tommy Taylor, the locally born footballer who became one of the 8 Manchester United players to tragically perish in the 1958 Munich air disaster. Having successfully navigated this bridge, we arrived on the edge of Barnsley town centre. We took a right down an adjacent road, which actually curved around the frontage of the station entrance which we would have left through had my phone not had a funny turn. Now that we'd figured out where we were, we set about starting our day properly. Our first stop of the day turned out to be almost opposite, on the corner of Regent Street. Our first taste of Barnsley's pub scene would be at The Courthouse.

 


As can be guessed from its name, this impressive looking building was originally built as a court house in 1868, although it only served this function for two years before being sold to Midland Railway to serve as a station for a new line through the town. It acted as such until 1960, before the station closed and all services were diverted to the current station. In the intervening years, the building had many uses, including as a school of dance, a ballroom, and a pub called the Comedy Store before it was purchased by Wetherspoons in 1999. It operated under their ownership for only 4 years, and was actually the first pub of the chain in Barnsley. Wetherspoons relocated to a larger premises in 2003, and this building has had various owners since, with Punch Taverns currently holding that honour. Access to the pub is up a flight of steps to the front. The interior is large, with a bar central to proceedings. A split-level drinking area is directly opposite the bar. To the end of the main room is a dartboard and pool table. To the rear, is a plush drinking area and also a staircase that leads up to the toilets. These appear to be located in what may have been old holding cells as the cubicles are in the centre of the room with access all the way around. Downstairs the decor consists of carpeted flooring, wooden furniture, attractive wallpaper and old photos of the town. A large Barnsley FC flag hangs above the bar and sports TVs can be found throughout. This is clearly a football pub and no doubt popular on matchdays, especially given its proximity to the station. The bar is well stocked and primarily given over to keg products, though there is a single, rather impressive looking handpull, dispensing Wainwright. I opted for a half of this. Dog started out with a half of Murphy's, whilst John contented himself with a half of Alpacalypse. All told, the round totalled £6.60, which wasn't a bad start to proceedings. We made our way over to a table in the raised area and discussed our first impressions. Whilst there is no obvious trace left of their stint, you can see why Wetherspoons would have taken this place on, not least because of the distance to the toilets. All in all, it's a down-to-earth welcoming pub. There's nothing overly showy but nothing too off-putting either. Besides which, the Wainwright was in cracking condition. As opening pubs go, we could certainly have done far worse. We were made to feel welcome, even as obvious newcomers to the area, and that's the very least we could have expected. 

With one pub already in the books, we were soon to immerse ourselves deeper into the centre of Barnsley. Leaving the Courthouse, we turned right and continued down Regent Street, crossing the road as we did so. We soon took a left onto Royal Street, which then continues around to the right. During this stretch of the journey, we came across some very cool, Art Deco architecture, which inadvertently foreshadowed our next couple of stops. Following Royal Street to the end, we emerged at the junction with Church Street, where our next location sits on the corner. Next up, the White Bear.


This large Grade II listed building dates from the late 18th century and formerly occupied a much smaller footprint. It was renamed the Royal Hotel in 1835, following an overnight stay by the then Princess Victoria. The royal coat of arms is depicted on the side gable, although this cannot be seen in the image above. In 1893, the building was extended into two neighbouring premises. In the late 1990s, it became the Fealty & Firkin and then The Assembly before it reverted back to its original name, which it still holds today. Inside, the layout has been divided into various areas, breaking up the internal floorspace. The large, main room is L-shaped and low-ceilinged. Raised areas can be found either side of the front entrance, one acting as a snug-like area, whilst the other acts a lounge. Steps at the back lead down to an area where a pool table can be found and which is more of a public bar in style. Beyond this is The Yard, which is semi-open to the street and occupies what was previously a hairdresser's. The decor is primarily dark grey but there are flashes of colour and touches of character, including illuminated signs and nods to the local area. The main area is primarily open-plan with the large servery wrapping around the central structure. Furniture is simple wooden tables and chairs but there are a few sofas scattered throughout. TVs are also prominent here and there is also a games machine. The flooring is mostly polished wood but black and white tiling fringes the bar area. We were greeted almost instantly as we entered and given a very warm welcome by a very friendly gentleman behind the bar, who seemed genuinely interested as to the purpose of our visit and was not afraid to offer some tips on where he thought we should go, as if we were unprepared amateurs who hadn't compiled a list. His joviality gave us time to peruse our bar options. There are two handpulls on the bar here. On the day in question, they were offering a choice of Hogs Back T.E.A. and Adnams Ghost Ship. John and I both decided on a half of T.E.A., whilst Dog opted for a half of Birra Moretti, at a total cost, for all three drinks, of £7.25. We spent a good few minutes here, enjoying the conversation and the quirky atmosphere. The White Bear certainly gives the impression of being targeted at a younger demographic. This is perhaps reflected in the quality of the beer. It wasn't awful but the T.E.A. certainly seemed like it was on the turn, which was a pity. Still the genuine friendliness of our welcome was worth the visit alone, and this would become a recurring theme throughout the day. The customer service we received at every location was second to none. 

Once we were able to excuse ourselves from the White Bear and the genuinely scintillating conversation of Luke and his team (shout out to them in the unlikely event that they're reading this), we had a short walk to our next stop. Turning left out of the White Bear, we continued on for a short distance until we came across a passageway, or jitty, on our left. This took us into Barnsley's covered Victorian Arcade, which is lined with independent businesses. One such independent business was now in our sights. Our first Good Beer Guide 2026 listed visit of the day, would be to Spiral City. 


A relatively recent addition to this part of town, Spiral City opened in November 2021. The Art Deco exterior is continued inside and enhanced even more to create an effortlessly cool ambience. The ground floor is split-level and continues the Art Deco theming, with a dark-tiled floor, two shades of teal blue walls and fittings in light wood. Seating is a combination of stools and leather banquettes along the windows and there is a small outside seating area on the arcade itself. The first floor features similar styling in two further drinking areas, one of which features a Rock-ola jukebox. The pub has recently expanded into the neighbouring unit, formerly a record shop called Vinyl Underground, which has moved opposite. There are multiple works of art on the walls, all the work of the owners Dean and Fiona. Dean is a renowned comic book artist, whose work gives the bar its name, whilst Fiona specialises in American style, 40s and 50s era pinup art. This place is really cool and we were all enamoured with the theming and style almost instantly, and this was before we'd even gotten to the bar. This is accessed up a short flight of steps at one end of the ground floor room. Amongst an intriguing range of options, including a really interesting keg range with a variety of styles, there are also 3 handpulls here. On the day, these included Tetley's Original and two beers from the local Acorn Brewery, namely Saint George and Most IPA. I went for a half of the Saint George, with Dog and John choosing from the keg selection. Dog went for a half of Anspach & Hobday's renowned London Black, whilst John went for an IPA called Inception from Beartown. The round came to £8.05 in total. We decided to make the most of the Spring sunshine and made our way to the outside seating. We were already thoroughly impressed with Spiral City. It was our favourite pub of the day thus far. This was more than backed up by the beer and confirmed that the bar's GBG status is well deserved. Saint George (4.5%) is a light golden ale with an orange citrus aroma. It's clean and refreshing with flavours of orange, earthiness and gentle spice. It's a great example of the style and the quality is no doubt enhanced by the feeling of Spring in the air. Our trio of pubs had already given us a glimpse into the range of venues that Barnsley had to offer. We were excited by the prospect of expanding that view. 

As reluctant as we were to leave the excellent Spiral City, there was much more goodness to come. Our quest would continue a short distance away. Retracing our steps back up the arcade, we emerged on Market Hill, where our next destination can be found, virtually opposite the arcade entrance. Next on our itinerary was Old No. 7.


This longstanding pub reopened in October 2023 after being purchased by the Valiant Pub Company. For many years it was known as Carter's No. 7 after the family that operated it as a wine and spirits merchant from 1878 to 1936. Inside, the interior has not changed much from its original appearance. A single, long room in a split-level design features a bar in the top section that dominates much of the available space. Seating in this area is high backed stools and wooden tables opposite the servery. The lower level features more traditional wooden seating. The decoration is minimal, with bare wood floors and textured ceilings. Newspaper articles and photos detailing old Barnsley are displayed on the walls. Old No. 7 has developed a strong reputation for the quality of its beer, winning Barnsley CAMRA Pub of the Year in consecutive years from 2012-15 and again in 2020. The pub is also listed in the 2026 Good Beer Guide. We were about to put that reputation to the test. You will find 6 handpulls on the bar here, offering a wide range of choices. The options available at the time were Acorn Barnsley Bitter, Vocation Heart & Soul, Rudgate Citra, Bosun's Brew Down the Hatch, Milestone Raspberry Wheat and Milestone Honey Porter. Being unfamiliar with Bosun's Brew, I went for a half of Down the Hatch, with Dog opting for the Porter and John for Barnsley Bitter, to the total cost of £6.75. We retreated the short distance to a high table and took in our surroundings from our raised position. Old No. 7 is a gem. The unchanged nature of the building gives it a timeless feel and it really did feel, for a moment at least, that we were part of a bygone era. The beer was cracking too. Bosun's Brewery are based elsewhere in Yorkshire, specifically Wetherby. Down the Hatch (4.0%) is an easy drinking golden ale with Cascade hops, leading to a light refreshing taste with hints of citrus. The modernity of the style is a good contrast to the environment we found ourselves in but all the better for it. 

Something altogether different was on our horizon. Leaving Old No. 7 in our wake, we took a right and headed down Market Hill, towards the central shopping area of the town. Our route took us down Queen Street and then left onto May Day Green. Our next location was right in front of us, at Nailmaker Tap 1. 


Located in the new Glassworks development, this unit started out as a wine bar and opened in August 2022. It was converted into its current guise in November 2024 and is the most central of two bars in town operated by Nailmaker Brewery, named for one of Barnsley's most well-known trades. Internally, the layout is L-shaped and relatively small, with a bar in one corner. The overall decoration is minimalist with two walls covered in rust effect wallpaper and the others bare brick. The large glass frontage, as well as allowing for lots of natural light, affords a good view of Glassworks Square. Seating is a mix of long benches and high stools. A single toilet is to one side of the room. Industrial chic is the order of the day throughout. The bar features a selection of keg beers, alongside 4 handpumps, with most of the cask beers from the portfolio of the namesake brewery. On offer at the time of our visit were Cardinal Sin, Yorkshire Bitter and Clout Stout, all from Nailmaker, alongside Empire Golden Warrior. It made sense to try a Nailmaker beer. When in Rome and all that. I went for a half of Cardinal Sin whilst Dog and John both opted for a half of Vocation's Death by Cherries. Total cost: £7.75. We found space to perch on some stools with an accompanying drinking ledge. We had conflicting views on this place. For my part, I don't mind a more modern style of bar that marries contemporary features with old school values. I expected it to be bigger here. In general though, there just didn't seem to be much of an atmosphere but the beer wasn't bad. Cardinal Sin (4.4%) is a pale ale, brewed with Cardinal hops. This gives flavours or citrus, grapefruit and pineapple and hints of bitterness. Conversely, Dog and John really weren't impressed at all. We had originally intended to visit the sister venue, imaginatively named Nailmaker Tap 2, which is actually GBG listed but time and geography put paid to that, as will be revealed later. For now, it was time to move on again. 

It's one thing having one pub that was formerly a Wetherspoons but Barnsley actually has two Spoons conversions and the second one of these was next on our route. Leaving Nailmaker 1 and turning left, we turned left again onto Cheapside and then took the next right onto Albert Street East. This crosses Albert Street and continues on, after which we took a left onto Market Street. A few yards down the road, we located The Kestrel. 


This former Wetherspoons was reopened in September 2023, following purchase and refurbishment by the Mountain Pub Co. The name references the titular bird from the book A Kestrel for a Knave (later adapted into the film Kes), written by Barnsley native Barry Hines. A commemorative statue, depicting Billy, the central character, and Kes, stands a short distance away. Inside, the layout has been opened up considerably and is much less cluttered than its previous incarnation. The bar stands to the right of the entrance and there is much seating throughout, mostly traditional scrubbed wood but there are booths along the opposite wall. The overall dimensions encompass one room, with the toilets downstairs. TVs are located throughout and there are also multiple dartboards. The pub operates an over-18s only policy. The carpet is in keeping with that of a former Spoons. 8 handpulls sit on the bar and normally 4 of these will be in use at one time, such was the case on our visit. The options included a trio from Stancill, another local brewery, with Nightshift, Faberge and Blonde represented, alongside Timothy Taylor Landlord as a guest beer. Whilst I was familiar with some of Stancill's range, Faberge was a new one on me. A half of that for me, half a Blonde for John and half a Poretti for Dog cost us a suspiciously cheap £4.95. Either it really is that reasonable or a mistake got made somewhere. We weren't about to ask too many questions and scarpered to a booth at the back of the room instead. As it turned out, Faberge is a decent beer. Brewed with the Bullion hop, it's a golden ale with a nice zesty kick to it. And, at 4.2%, it's decidedly drinkable. The Kestrel isn't a bad pub all-in-all and it certainly fits in amongst the wide range of premises we'd encountered so far. At those prices, it's not hard to see why!

It was to be yet another very different kettle of fish at our next stop too. So far, we'd definitely experienced a whole gamut of different offerings. Now, at the half way point, it was yet another change of pace. Taking a left out of the Kestrel, we continued down Market Street until we reached the Alhambra Shopping Centre. Stopping briefly to admire the aforementioned statue at the entrance, we continued on, actually walking through the shopping centre and emerging on a ring road, partly served by Sheffield Road. Using subways to navigate the central island, we made our way up onto Sheffield Road, overlooked by our next destination, the Manx Arms. 


The Manx Arms was very much a wild card decision for this trip but also added a bit of an extra dimension to our day. This blue-painted pub was formerly known as both the Cricketers Arms and the Legs of Man, before becoming the Manx Arms. It is believed to date from 1793 and underwent a rebuild during the Victorian period. During the 1990s, it brewed its own beers on the premises under the name of the Manx Brewery, which once occupied the cellar. A more modern extension was added around the same period. Entering the pub will bring you through into a roughly two-roomed pub. One side features flagstone flooring and a large fireplace. The other is primarily wooden floored, with a fruit machine, and a smaller space beyond. Furniture is a mixture of wood and soft furnishings. A pool table sits centrally to one room and the bar is tucked away to the back of the room, roughly central to both halves of the pub. This is the epitome of a football pub. Memorabilia is everywhere, predominantly, and unsurprisingly a shrine to Barnsley FC, with scarves, photos of famous players and framed and signed shirts. Other teams do feature, though nowhere near to the same extent and within reason, depending on the team. Away fans are allowed, depending on who it is. The weekend after our visit saw Bradford City visiting. That was a definite no. And don't even ask if you're a Sheffield Wednesday fan! It's a truly impressive collection of football merchandise from across the club's history, no doubt helped by the pub being only a few minutes walk from Oakwell. It's not just football memories from bygone years that linger here though. The Manx Arms also has a reputation for odd happenings. Drinks have a penchant for disappearing and old currency has been known to randomly appear without explanation. Several local paranormal groups have investigated, including one that counts former boxing champion Kell Brook amongst its members. Randomly. Back in the mortal realm though and we were deciding on drinks options. There is no cask beer here so Dog and I settled on a half each of Caffrey's Stout, whilst John went for a half of Aspall. The total cost was £6.30. The Caffrey's Stout actually wasn't too bad at all and just about made up for a lack of cask options. If nothing else, the Manx Arms is a fascinating place to visit, for the strange stories as much as the football history. 

The day had warmed up markedly by the time we left the Manx Arms. The next section of our trip would include the most walking between locations of the whole day, around 15 minutes in total. Crossing over outside the Manx Arms, we followed West Way for a short distance and then bore left onto Upper New Street, continuing down this to where it becomes New Street. This road curves slightly as you progress and soon becomes Agnes Street. After a few minutes, our next stop hove into view, on the junction of Agnes Street and Spring Street: Heaven & Ale.


Good Beer Guide 2026 listed and multiple winner of local CAMRA Pub of the Year, Heaven & Ale is the result of a stunning conversion of a former Co-Op. Multi-roomed, this is a bonafide destination pub. The entrance opens into the largest room, with low wooden furniture and the bar, and walls decorated with music posters, primarily rock. A small lounge features leather sofas, guitars and more of the same wall decor. A corridor to the rear houses the toilets but also features a wall entirely covered in pump clips. The soundtrack is geared towards alternative and classic rock. The bar, with its 4 handpulls, beckoned us in. In short, this place is very aptly named. The beer options were certainly interesting: Abbeydale Moonshine, Woodforde's Wherry, St. Peter's Cream Stout and Dancing Duck Ay Up. A rock-themed micropub serving my favourite ale of all time? Yes please! Of course I went for the Moonshine. Dog went for the Cream Stout with John opting for Blue Monkey's Cinder Toffee from amongst the keg selection. A half for everyone came to £7.00. We made our way into the lounge, with its comfy leather sofas and took some time just absorbing everything. This place is bloody marvellous. The Moonshine was superb. More than that, this place has everything you could want. To say it's somewhat in the backstreets, that is not a deterrent. This is somewhere you have to visit. Let's go now! I'll drive. Heaven & Ale? Absolutely.

After our most recent stop, it seemed almost pointless to press on. But, press on we did. Given the amount of walking we'd just done, we decided on a quicker mode of transport to get us to our next stop. Dog summoned an Uber. With his phone. He's not a wizard, at least as far as I know. Our destination? Summer Lane, for here be the George & Dragon. 


Another Good Beer Guide 2026 listed venue, the George & Dragon is Barnsley CAMRA Pub of the Year for 2025 and we were about to put it to the test. Following a thorough refurbishment, which included the reinstatement of real ale, the pub reopened in July of 2020. Entering through either the front or side door will convey you into the main bar area, dominated by an impressive servery and bar back. Up a flight of stairs, a smaller room has padded leather chairs and sofas. The lower level is more traditional in seating but also features leather settles, a striped carpet and decorative prints. We were given a very warm, jovial welcome by the landlady as we approached the bar, which boasts 4 handpulls, across a mix of styles. The choices here were Stancill Barnsley Bitter, Small World Spring Break, Chantry Gruntled and Small World Thunderbridge Stout. I'd yet to have anything approaching a dark beer so the Thunderbridge Stout took my fancy. Dog opted for half a Stella, with John returning to Aspall. A half of each, accompanied by a cup of miniature spicy rice crackers, came to the grand total of £7.30. Small World are based near Huddersfield and Thunderbridge Stout (5.2%) is a cracker of a beer. Dry and roasty, it also has hints of coffee and a sharp, dry finish. It's delicious, far too drinkable and generally fantastic! I'm always surprised with the depth of flavours you can get from even the most simple of stouts and this beer proves my point no end. The George & Dragon is certainly worthy of its plaudits. It's a comfortable and friendly place that serves excellent beer to boot. 

We had a decision to make now. Uphill again to Nailmaker Tap 2 or back down towards the town centre. Given our underwhelming experience at Nailmaker 1, and wanting to preserve our legs and dignity, we decided that downhill was a better option. This meant we had two stops remaining but food would be required first. A walk down Summer Lane and a left onto Peel Place brought us to the other side of Market Hill. To save walking around the buildings, we took a shortcut through the local Spoons, which handily has a door at either end. We were now opposite the arcade again. Prior to visiting our final duo of pubs, we made a detour through the arcade to Mother Hubbard's, a nearby chippie. Fully satiated with various forms of spicy fish and chips, we were ready to complete our mission. Our penultimate stop was opposite Spiral City at Jolly Tap on the Arcade. 


This Good Beer Guide 2026 listed venue was the first micropub in Barnsley and occupies what was formerly a cake shop. Originally opened by the owners of Two Roses brewery, it has been owned by Jolly Boys brewery since 2019 and operates as their brewery tap. Inside, a bar counter opposite the door serves a small open-plan room, with wooden flooring and a small amount of seating, including settles by the window. A smaller upstairs room provides additional drinking space and looks out over the arcade. Given the ownership, the beer choice, on 5 handpulls, should come as no surprise. All the beers present on the day were from the Jolly Boys range, featuring Collier Porter, Yorkshire Bitter, Supa-Citra, Barnsley Blonde and ?PA. I went for a half of the latter. John decided on a half of Aspall, whereas Dog went for a double gin and tonic, which he often does after eating. The total cost of the round was a reasonable £12.55. I am acquainted with the Jolly Boys beers but I don't think I'd had the ?PA (4.8%) up to this point. It was worth the wait. Well balanced and smooth, with a good mix of hop notes. The Jolly Tap is exactly that. A fun, enjoyable place for a beer, inside a Victorian shopping arcade. It's really nice to see units that may otherwise have been left empty repurposed into something that can help bring new trade and extra footfall to an area. 

One stop left. Leaving Jolly Tap, we made our way up a jitty opposite. This brought us out onto Hanson Street, which we followed for a few seconds before taking a right onto Regent Street South, where we quickly located Bar Ruelle. 


Originally opening in 2019, Bar Ruelle later became a restaurant before being converted back into a pub in 2024 following the return of the previous owners. Effectively a micropub, it consists of one long room, that widens at the rear, with a bar counter running down one side. Seating is stools at the bar or lower tables in the rear section, where you will also find the toilets. Minimalist decor, bare wood flooring and turquoise walls are the order of the day. You'll find beer here though. 4 handpulls serve beers predominantly from Yorkshire. On this occasion, those beers were Small World Secret, Harrogate Harrogate Pale, Truth Hurts True Blonde and Skipton Airedale Blonde. Whilst the choice of styles wasn't the most imaginative, the relative rarity of the featured breweries in my neck of the woods certainly gave me a quandary. In the end, I swung for the Harrogate Pale with both Dog and John deciding on the True Blonde. Three halves came to £6.00. A table at the back of the room was calling and we used this to plan our next move, whilst drinking our beers. The Harrogate Pale (4.2%) was a good choice. Light-bodied, it's brewed with Amarillo and Citra hops for floral notes and hints of citrus. 

With a little bit of time to kill, we supped our halves and made an attempt to visit a nearby micropub, the Old Tailors, but this turned out to be closed. A final, fortifying half back at the Courthouse to bookend our visit ensured that enough time passed so that we could make the short walk to the train station without too much of a wait. This meant, of course, that it was time to depart and, also, time to reflect and analyse. Barnsley had been a roaring success. A town that is arguably overshadowed by its bigger brothers to the north and south had come up trumps. There's a lot of fun to be had here. The pubs are great, the town is easy to navigate and the beers were in great condition, for the most part. One of the biggest draws though, and one of the things that would warrant a return, is the people. Everyone was lovely. Not only did they display all of the best elements of hospitality but there was a genuine impression that it wasn't an act. People wanted to engage. They wanted to chat. They wanted to know that we were having a good time and, by extension, they ensured that we did. The art of conversation, the gift of the welcome, is becoming a lost art in a world of AI nonsense and doomscrolling. But, this is what it should really be about. Getting out and exploring, meeting people, discovering new things and new places and, at the end of it all, being able to say that you had a good time and maybe even made some new friends. After all, isn't that the point? Barnsley is certainly testament to that. It's an amalgamation of its surroundings. Urban and rural. Modern and traditional. Small but feels big. All the best bits of a big city with much less faff. You can be anything you want in life. Try and be like Barnsley.

Pub of the Day: Heaven & Ale. Speaks for itself.

Honourable mention: George & Dragon. Fantastic welcome, excellent beer.

Beer of the Day: Small World - Thunderbridge Stout. I was certainly thunder struck. 

Biggest surprise: Spiral City. Unexpected Art Deco aesthetic. 

Tuesday, March 31, 2026

Feeling the Steel

Hot on the heels of my recent revisit to Castle Donington and its neighbouring settlements, and with a few days of annual leave left to enjoy, last week saw the opportunity for another return visit, this time to a place whose beer reputation is such that it has become almost legendary, and is very much a place of pilgrimage for the discerning drinker. It last featured in these columns some time ago, in the April of 2017. Since then, I've only returned twice, once for a gig and then again two years ago for a change of scenery in which to watch the Superbowl. Given that it had been almost 9 years since I thoroughly investigated its unique drinking scene, it was long overdue a reappraisal. If the thinly veiled title clue wasn't enough to identify this location, allow me to elaborate. I speak of course of Sheffield, the Steel City, a place that I first got to know during my postgraduate studies and which has struck a chord with me ever since. It has rightly earned its place as a proper 'beer city' in the intervening years and it had long been on my agenda to make a return trip. I wouldn't be alone in these exploits though. Joining me on the journey to South Yorkshire would be my much better half, Amy, who had only been to Sheffield on one prior occasion and was very much looking forward to exploring the city properly. For my part, I was eager to visit new venues, revisit some old favourites and generally discover the state of play and how the drinking scene was holding up in this part of the country. 

And so it was that, on a bright and clear, but chilly, Thursday morning we embarked on the 10.17am train from Nottingham. Slightly less than an hour later and we were pulling into Sheffield's railway station with a full day of adventure and exploration ahead of us. In compiling the itinerary for this trip, I had tried to include what I hoped would be a good cross section of venues, encompassing places I'd never been to before alongside locations I was familiar with. Indeed, some of the destinations hadn't existed when I last carried out a proper survey of the city and so there was much anticipation regarding what they might have to offer. We disembarked and set about getting stuck in. Luckily for us, our first stop lies only a very short distance away from where our train had just arrived as it is incorporated into the station buildings. It has also become a must-visit destination on any pub trip to Sheffield. Our day would begin at the Sheffield Tap.


Located between Sheaf Street and platform 1B of Sheffield station, what is now the Sheffield Tap is an award-winning restoration of the former first class refreshment rooms. The original building dates from 1905 and was re-opened in 2009 following years of neglect and disrepair. The refurbishment sensitively restored many of the original features including Minton tiling, terrazzo floor, parts of the bar fitting and some of the joinery. Entering from the platform side brings you directly into the bar room, which features a long servery, high ceilings, large windows from which trains can be seen and fixed banquette seating. A smaller room beyond this, a former taxi office, provides extra seating whilst also leading out onto the street. An outside seating area with parasols can also be found here. The ceiling in the main bar is a high quality replica of the original, which was beyond repair, and also features skylights to provide extra natural light. To the north of the main room, the former first class dining room has been incorporated into the design. This reopened as an additional room in 2013. This room is L-shaped, with pale ceramic walls, large mirrors and terrazzo flooring. Tapped Brew Co. have installed a microbrewery in the room adjacent to the street. The whole venture is a group effort between themselves and Pivovar, one of several similar arrangements across Yorkshire. This is truly an impressive building, so much so that the conversion has won much acclaim. The Sheffield Tap is Grade II listed and also features on CAMRA's National Inventory of historic pub interiors. It's not just the architecture that helps this place stand out though. It has been lauded for many years for its excellent beer range and quality. The pub has been included in the Good Beer Guide for many years, including for 2026, and was voted Sheffield City Centre Pub of the Year in both 2020 and 2022. There are much worse places in which we could have begun our excursion and it was time to put the beer selection to the test. The bar is certainly well stocked for just such an eventuality. 11 handpulls can be found here, alongside an impressive selection of craft beers, in both draught and bottled form. We had a lot to choose from here, including options from the on-site brewery. On the cask side, the options were Tapped Jericho, Tapped Pacific Surfliner, Tapped Sorsby, Tapped Toha, Thornbridge Red Mountain, Left Handed Giant Dark Mild, Thornbridge Jaipur, Utopian British, Neptune Ezili and Anarchy Blonde Star, with the remaining pump offering Snails Bank Rhubarb cider. It took me a few seconds to decided before I eventually settled on the Jericho (4%) from the in-house brewery. Amy selected Blueberry Pale by Glasshouse from amongst the keg range and we took a seat at a high settle slightly off from the bar. We would be on halves throughout the day and our round here totalled £6.65. Every trip I've ever made to the Sheffield Tap has impressed me and this one was no exception. Quite apart from the ambience and the sheer impressive scale of the venue, the beer quality is excellent. Jericho is a session pale, billed as a West Coast style, although the bitterness is not quite as pronounced as you'd expect. Instead, it has a predominantly hoppy backbone, with a dry finish and floral notes. In short, it's a good way to start the day. 

One thing that has always struck me about Sheffield, is the degree of contrast that can found in its pubs and how different a lot of its venues are. Throughout the day, we would visit a whole range of venues that covered a considerable range of styles and clientele. It's part of the fun of trips like this. The joy of discovery is not something to be dismissed. Our next location would be something quite different. Leaving the Sheffield Tap through the street-side entrance, we immediately turned right and made our way along Sheaf Street. A few yards further on, we used a footbridge over the road to get to the other side and headed down the neighbouring Pond Hill. Stop number two is located a short distance down this street. Time now, for the Old Queens Head. 


The oldest domestic building in Sheffield, the Old Queens Head dates back to 1437 and was formerly the hunting lodge for Sheffield Castle. Much of the old Tudor structure remains, including the instantly recognisable black and white, half-timbered exterior. The pub's name refers to Mary, Queen of Scots, who was held captive in Sheffield for 14 years prior to her execution, with her imprisonment believed to have taken place here. Inside, it's a combination of very old and more modern. A U-shaped lounge wraps around a central bar. A beamed dining room, in the older part of the building, adjoins this area. The furniture is a combination of traditional scrubbed wood and some banquette style seating. There is an upstairs function room for hire. The toilets are located between the bar and main entrance. There is also an additional entrance to one side. The pub is operated by Thwaites so naturally features much of their beer range. On the day of our visit, 4 of the 5 handpulls were in use, all offering products from the house portfolio, in the form of Thwaites Original, IPA, Amber and Gold. The keg range is primarily macro brands although one craft line is available, usually featuring Thwaites's latest foray into the craft beer world. On this occasion, that was Paradise No.3, which Amy went for a half of. I contented myself with a half of Amber and our round came to £5.90. We moved away to a cosy, snug-like area to one side of the bar. This is another location that we'd visited on a previous trip and one we'd always remembered. It's been given a bit a spruce up since then. The lounge area has benefited from a lick of paint and a general brightening. Historic photos of the local area are displayed on the walls. Similarly, the upstairs area has been rejuvenated and is now much brighter. The beer here was always fairly decent and, in that respect, nothing has changed. Amber (4.4%) pretty much does what you'd expect. It's a full-bodied and well-balanced bitter with floral hop aromas. It went down a treat! The Paradise No. 3 is a 4.3% tropical pale ale with big citrus notes and an overall tropical flavour. More and more traditional breweries seem to be branching out into the craft beer scene and should be commended for making the effort to modernise without changing their traditional values. The Old Queens Head might be an old pub but the more contemporary features have enhanced the experience without devaluing the age of the building. We received a warm welcome and delicious beer to boot. Given the age of the place, it's no surprise to learn that there are ghost stories associated with it. I did cover some of these in my last visit but here's a refresher. The image of a Civil War soldier has been seen standing in front of the fireplace. A child, allegedly with the name of Pierre and dating from the Medieval period, has been known to pull women's hair to get their attention. A large hunting hound has been seen but also felt, either lying on people's feet or across their laps. A lady in white has been seen sitting upstairs. A more modern spectre is that of a former regular from the 1970s, who has been spotted at the bar with half a pint of bitter. Most alarming is a spirit in the ladies toilet, who likes to rattle the doors whilst women are alone in the room, and who occasionally flushes toilets. The Old Queens Head is brimming with spirits of the past if the stories can be believed. What can be believed is that this is a place worth visiting if you're a fan of local history and very good beer. 

Before long, our glasses were empty and we would once again be on our way. We left the Old Queens Head and continued along Pond Hill, before turning right onto Pond Street. We followed this around to the junction with Arundel Gate, where we turned left. Crossing the road opposite the O2 Academy, we headed up Norfolk Street, past the Crucible Theatre. We took another left, a continuation of Norfolk Street and, before too long, found our next destination, Head of Steam.

 


Formerly a bank, this impressive building has been a pub for over 20 years but was acquired by Camerons Brewery in 2015, reopening as a branch of Head of Steam in April 2016, after a significant refurbishment. Inside, a central, island bar serves a single square room. Booth seating and wooden furniture are the order of the day, with quirky light fittings and bare boarded floors. The high ceilings and large front windows ensure the interior is bright and airy. A separate seating area at the rear leads through to an outside drinking area in Tudor Square. Anyone who is familiar with Head of Steam venues will be aware of their signature style and this venue has it in abundance. TV screens show sport and retro beer adverts are displayed on the walls. The bar is brimming with goodies, as befits its place in the 2026 Good Beer Guide. As well as a variety of keg options, there are 10 handpumps, in 2 groups of 5, offering beers from Camerons's own range, alongside many guests. On the day, 8 of these handpulls were in use, with a choice between Abbeydale x Elusive Escape to Reading, Abbeydale Hinterland, Ossett White Rat, Atom Vanilla Beaufort, Camerons Strongarm, Camerons Head of Steam Pale, Camerons Road Crew, and Lilley's Gladiator for the cider buffs. I selected a half of the Hinterland with Amy selecting a half of Brew York's Juice Forsyth (total cost £6.75) and we took up a seat in one of the nearby booths. In general, I'm a fan of Head of Steam. Their beer choice is normally great, even if their aesthetic is virtually identical in every pub they own. That's why breweries and pub companies have their signature styles though, I guess. The beer here was very good. Hinterland, from Abbeydale, one of Sheffield's many excellent breweries, is a 4.5% East Coast style pale ale. This means it's hazy, pillowy and soft and boasts a big, full-bodied character, with lots of juice, low bitterness and big, tropical aromas. It was new beer for me and a very nice one at that! 

Head of Steam had been a good stop off and our next one wasn't far away. We turned left upon leaving the pub and then took the next right onto Surrey Street, with Sheffield Town Hall on our left. Surrey Street then becomes Fargate and on this street is the aptly named The Fargate.


Another stunning building in a city filled with them, this Gothic edifice began life as the Yorkshire Penny Savings Bank, which opened in July 1889 and was designed by Henry Perkin and George Bertram Bulmer. Originally the bank occupied two floors, with the main banking hall at ground level and the strongroom in the basement. The upper floors were used as a restaurant and first-class hotel, The Albany, which featured a billiard room, coffee and smoking rooms, private dining rooms and 40 bedrooms. The hotel eventually closed in 1958. The bank became Yorkshire Bank in 1959, with the old hotel converted into offices. The bank itself closed in 2020. The external appearance is relatively unchanged, although some original features were sacrificed in the 1960s. Following a £1 million refurbishment, as part of a local regeneration scheme, the building opened as The Fargate in October 2025, by far the youngest establishment on our itinerary. It is a partnership between Thornbridge and Pivovar and bares the familiar hallmarks of a Thornbridge property. Inside, you could easily mistake the place for having stood here for a century or more. Throughout, you will find dark wood, leather, herringbone floors, brass accents, chandeliers and curated artwork, all surrounding a central, horseshoe-shaped bar. Screened booths, a snug, banquette seating and full-height windows to the front, add to the impressive facade. On the first floor, accessed up the original spiral staircase, there is an additional room with timber walls, decorated ceilings and original details. A glazed screen partitions the room off from a pizza kitchen, with an Italian corner oven. The toilets are located in the basement, where the original vault doors are still in situ, this time guarding the cellar. This is a truly impressive place and those who have converted it deserve very high praise indeed. With Thornbridge heavily involved, and now operating the premises, it should come as no surprise that their beers feature prominently, although there are many guests involved as well. 10 handpulls take pride of place here. Thornbridge are well represented, with Jaipur, Lord Marples, Wild Swan, Hirundo, Crackendale and Market Porter all available on the day. The remaining lines featured Atom Quantum State, Two by Two Talus Ekuanot, Beartown Kodiak and Lunebrew Stout. There is also a decent keg range and Amy chose a half of Green Mountain from this selection. For my part, I opted for a half of Hirundo. After paying £5.70 for our round, we grabbed some stools and perched at the bar. I was thoroughly impressed with this place. It reminded me a great deal of the Market Cat in York, which is another bar under the same ownership. The style is virtually identical. I'm a big fan of Thornbridge anyway but their bars are something else. They always showcase a contrast between extravagance and accessibility, grandeur and comfort. It helps that they also brew and keep bloody good beer. The Hirundo was one such example. At 4.5%, this is a hoppy pale ale, brewed with Chinook and Willamette hops. Named after the Latin name for the swallow, this is springtime in a glass, with a zingy freshness and a pronounced, refreshing drinkability. Delicious!

It was to be another change of pace at our next venue, and something a bit more down-to-earth. Leaving The Fargate, we headed straight across Town Hall Square and then veered right onto Barker's Pool. Passing both the City Hall and the war memorial, we soon reached Division Street, where we continued on. Our next two destinations sit almost opposite each other and the first of these is the Frog & Parrot. 


Despite it's relatively non-descript frontage and generic Greene King external livery, the Frog & Parrot occupies an important place in Sheffield history. The pub has operated from this location for more than 300 years, putting it up there with the oldest in the city. Internally, you'll find a split-level layout with large windows that overlook the street. The bar is L-shaped and found at the rear of the room. To the front, an area of high tables and stools is watched over by an elaborate ceiling. A short flight of steps leads up to the bar area. A snug-style space, with raised settles, is tucked over in one corner, separated by part-glazed partitions. A number of round booth-style tables run along one side of the room. The toilets can be found upstairs, as can a renowned music venue. Part of the upper ceiling is covered in artwork representing various Sheffield bands, and there are lyrics from some of these artists written on walls throughout. The internal floorplan is broken up by mirrored pillars, which make the whole place feel more cosy and compact. What's so important about this pub?, I hear you ask, after my heavy-handed foreshadowing. In a nutshell, it's synonymous with Sheffield's music scene. Arctic Monkeys drank here as teenagers and have performed in the room upstairs, where a man named Chris McClure once set off the smoke alarm, prompting an evacuation. He was later immortalised on the front cover of their debut album Whatever People Say I Am, That's What I'm Not. Other important musical events have taken place here too. Joe Cocker signed his first record deal here. Boyzone and Roots Manuva have used the place for filming. Bands such as Reverend and the Makers and Catfish and the Bottlemen have performed here, and Pete Doherty is known to frequent the place whenever he's in the area. In short, this place is a shrine to Sheffield's musical legacy and a site of pilgrimage for local bands and their followers. Away from the music though, it also features a decent beer selection, particularly by Greene King standards. 4 handpulls can be found here. On the day of our visit, these were offering things beyond the usual house products. The only Greene King beer was Spring Break, a beer showcasing up and coming brewers. Alongside this, the other pumps were taken up by Bradfield Irish Dexter, Abbeydale Absolution and Lilley's Crazy Goat cider. I was pleasantly surprised by the choices so decided on a half of the Irish Dexter, a beer I was unfamiliar with, from Bradfield brewery. Amy chose a half of Hazy Day. Our round came to £6.15. We made our way to a high table near the snug and marvelled at the very eclectic playlist. Our beers were good too. Irish Dexter (4.8%) is a deep red colour, with a sweet, malty flavour and a dry finish. It's a limited edition brew, normally available once a year, around St. Patrick's Day. Even though it was being served a little bit behind schedule, it was a good beer. It was certainly a nice change from a lot of the offerings normally found in a Greene King pub. Whilst this wasn't my first visit to the Frog & Parrot, I don't think I properly appreciated it the last time. Its impact on the local music scene cannot and should not be underestimated. 

Following our sojourn into Sheffield's music history, we only had a short hop for the next stop of the day. As mentioned earlier, it was almost opposite, although actually located on Devonshire Street, which Division Street runs onto. A quick dash over the road took us to Vocation & Co.


This relatively new addition to the area's pub scene is another Good Beer Guide 2026 venue, operated by Hebden Bridge's Vocation Brewery. It opened in 2023 and is based in a building that was previously a pub known as the Old House operated by True North Brewing Co. In its current iteration, a central entrance corridor leads into the main bar area, with seating either side. The decor is bright and modern and fairly minimalist, reflecting Vocation's style. Colourful murals dominate the walls. The toilets are located downstairs, accessed through a door off of the bar area. A fridge, loaded with cans for drinking in or takeaway, is adjacent to the bar, which itself boasts a frankly bonkers amount of beer. There are 5 cask taps and more than 20 keg lines, primarily offering Vocation products. The cask options on the day were Bread & Butter, Heart & Soul, Not My First, Pride & Joy, and Victorian Porter, all from Vocation. Not My First was a new beer to me and apparently a new release, so selecting half of that was a no brainer. Amy chose a half of a DDH pale called Roll With It, with our total round costing £6.50. We withdrew to a table behind one of the windows to the front of the building. The soundtrack was distinctly emo and pop-punk which I personally rather enjoyed. The beer was cracking too! Vocation are one of our favourite breweries and I know that Amy was very much looking forward to coming here. Not My First (5.2%) is billed an American IPA. It's brimming with citrus, pine and tropical fruit. It really is a fantastic beer and I'll be keeping an eye out for it more often. Amy's choice was great too. We seriously debated staying here for an extra beer, as it had been a standout of the day so far. It's a really cool and really friendly space to enjoy some awesome beer. In the end, we realised we had better move on. We were approaching the halfway point and there was still much more to do. 

Our next stop was a place that always has a place in my heart for the nostalgia and the memories that it conjures up. It was by far my favourite pub in Sheffield during my studies here, and featured in both my previous trip blog and my blog of my 31 favourite pubs. Heading out of Vocation, we turned left and then took the next right onto Eldon Street, which we followed to the end. We had now emerged on West Street, in close proximity to where much of my postgrad studies took place. We turned left again, crossed the road, and continued on, taking a right onto Portland Lane. We also followed this to the end, whereupon we reached Pitt Street. A short distance further on, you will find the Red Deer.


The Red Deer has certainly been through it in recent years. A period of closure post-Covid thankfully came to an end and the pub is now back open although, as the photo above indicates, they are in search of somebody to take on the tenancy. The current tenants are acting pub managers until the vacancy is filled. Fingers crossed it will be soon. This is the kind of traditional, local pub that are being lost all too frequently at the moment. It's imperative that everything that can be done to keep them open is put into effect. The small frontage of the pub leads through into an open-plan interior, which is the result of the original three-roomed layout being opened out. The bar curves around the immediate surroundings, with areas of seating to the front and around the perimeter. A further area of raised seating, surrounded by a gallery, extends towards the rear. A rear entrance can be accessed from the adjacent side street. Toilets are located in a small corridor next to the bar. The ceiling is covered in pump clips, reflecting the sheer quantity of beers that the pub has gone through over the years. I have nothing but fond memories of the Red Deer, from pints between lectures to actual seminars conducted in the pub. I always remember the beer being great so I was hoping that that was still the case. There are 9 handpumps on the bar here, of which 7 were being utilised when we were there, with choices mainly sourced from Yorkshire but with a couple of outliers also featuring. The options were Bradfield Farmers Blonde, Black Sheep Best Bitter, Oakham Citra, Theakston Old Peculier, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Titanic Plum Porter. No prizes for guessing what I went for this time. A half of Citra for me, and a half of Brixton Low Voltage on keg for Amy, set us back £5.35. We opted for a low table near the fireplace opposite the bar. Being back in a place where I had such good memories was a really nice experience. The Red Deer is old school, with basics done well and a decent drop of ale to be had. The Citra was well kept and hit the spot. I live in hope that the pub will survive and thrive and that it eventually returns to the glory days I remember from when I frequented it more often. This was certainly the place in which I felt the most nostalgia. Knowing it's still plugging away is a relief. 

With the first half of our day's activity in the books, we had a bit more of a wander planned now. No beer-based trip to Sheffield is complete without a visit to the many excellent pubs that can be found in the Kelham Island area of the city, located to the north of the city centre. It was to here that we would venture for the next few stops on our tour. To reach Kelham Island and, more specifically, our next pub, we were faced with around a 20 minute walk, primarily downhill. We left the Red Deer and turned left at the end of Pitt Street. We were now on Mappin Street. We followed this to the end and then turned right onto Broad Lane. From there, we would be roughly following a single road which becomes Tenter Street and then Corporation Street and runs through an area of heavy student traffic, with lots of halls of residence, as well as takeaways and small businesses. After a few minutes, we negotiated a busy traffic island and crossed a bridge over the River Don. We had now arrived in the Kelham Island area and were a short distance from our next stop: The Harlequin. 


This former Ward's Brewery pub takes its name from another former Ward's pub that once stood around the corner but has since been demolished. It is also Good Beer Guide 2026 listed. Entering through the front door, you will find an open-plan interior, arranged around a central bar. Seating is arranged around the edge of the room, in the form of both banquette seating and traditional tables and chairs. A lower level of similar seating is found towards the rear. The floor is a mix of carpeting and bare wood and the walls are adorned with myriad pump clips, adverts, old photos, slogans and humorous pieces. The bar features 10 handpulls, mostly for beer but real cider is a feature too. The house beer, Kirkstall Bitter, is normally accompanied by many guests. On the day in question, these included Northern Monk Mills & Hills, Abbeydale Deception, North Riding Jester, North Riding US IPA, RedWillow Nelson Riwaka and Two by Two Stout. The cider options were Sandford Orchards Blackberry, Ascension Pilot and Thistly Cross Whisky Cask. After a moment's deliberation, I went for a half of the RedWillow whilst Amy chose a half of Kirkstall Virtuous from the keg selection. We also shared a bag of mini cheddars with our round totalling £7.10. We took a seat on the lower level, near the toilets which are in an adjacent corridor. The Harlequin is a really cool place. It was recommended as a stop by Dog, who has visited many times, and it was absolutely worth it. As well as being welcoming and friendly, it also doesn't take itself too seriously. The toilets are covered with amusing graffiti. More than that, the beer is top notch. From Macclesfield's RedWillow, Nelson Riwaka (5.0%) is a New Zealand IPA, brewed with both the eponymous hops. This produces notes of white grape, lime zest and stone fruit, alongside a fresh aroma and gentle bitterness. The Nelson Sauvin hops give it almost a wine like feel. It's a cracking beer though and a cracking pub. Thanks to Dog for the recommendation! He'll very likely be joining me on a trip again in the not too distant future. 

With The Harlequin ticked off, we were well and truly in our stride. Our next stop was not too far away at all. Once again traversing the nearby A61, and ensuring we stayed on the right side of the river, we continued onto Mowbray Street, to visit Riverside. 


Named for its location overlooking the Don, Riverside is recognised for its historic exterior, which features original Ward's brewery windows. Operated by True North Brewing Co., this is a modern upgrade of a much older building. The bar is to the left of the entrance as you enter. To the right, there is a small area of seating, with a much larger, open-plan space in between. The seating is mostly leather banquette seating around the edge, with wooden tables and chairs. The use of internal pillars has broken up the footprint and, together with low lighting, dark ceilings and wooden floors, creates an atmosphere of intimacy and comfort. There is a terrace that looks out to the river, which is perfect for warm and sunny days. Beer features in abundance, with a bank of 7 handpulls on the bar, alongside a strong keg selection. When we were there, 5 of the handpulls were in use, with a choice between Triple Point Gold, Ossett x Vault City Swally Rat, Atom Vanilla Beaufort, Thornbridge Wild Swan and Triple Point Alpha. Intrigued by the prospect of a collab between Ossett and Vault City, I chose half of the Swally Rat. Amy went for half of Triple Point Haze from amongst the keg range. This came to £5.70 all in. We also took the opportunity to grab some food whilst we were here. A portion of beef chilli nachos and a portion of frickles, both to share, came to £11.50 and arrived in good time. Bloody good food it was too, and generously portioned. Good food goes best with good beer and, luckily for us, that ticked the boxes too. Swally Rat (5.0%) is a caramel coffee stout and it is absolutely gorgeous! Equal parts sweet and bitter and with a real smoothness to the whole thing, it's a truly sensational beer. I can generally take or leave coffee flavours but in this case it was subtle and served to round everything out instead of being overpowering. Phenomenal. I was genuinely slightly stunned by how good the beer was. Riverside had been a big surprise overall. It was a cracking find and a great complement to the area. 

With the last delicious drops of Swally Rat clinging to my tastebuds and the acidic prickle of frickles still tingling in our mouths, we finished up at Riverside and continued on. We left the pub the way we had come in, turning right and then right again until we were making our way alongside the A61. Shortly thereafter, we took another right onto Alma Street. This conveyed us deep into the heart of Kelham Island proper, the former industrial quarter. A few yards down this road we located our next stop, another Good Beer Guide 2026 listed venue and the pub that kickstarted the real ale revolution in this part of the city. Welcome to The Fat Cat.


Dating from the mid-19th century, and little-altered since, The Fat Cat started life as The Kelham Tavern when it opened in 1850. In 1856, it was renamed The Alma, after the Battle of the Alma River, an engagement during the Crimean War. Much of the pub's original layout remains intact. It has two downstairs rooms, with a small central bar, mosaic in the doorway and terrazzo flooring in the passageway. A small entrance lobby leads left and right. Left takes you through to a room with bench seating, with right leading through to the servery, which is surrounded by more bench seating but also features a Victorian fireplace with green tiles and a wood and cast iron surround. Cottages that once stood behind the pub were eventually incorporated into the building and have since been converted into the toilet blocks. Under its current name, the pub opened in 1981 and soon became one of the first real ale freehouses in the UK. Another distinction held by the pub is it being the first to open a fully non-smoking room, which it did in 1986. As with many pubs in Sheffield, The Fat Cat suffered flooding in both 1864 and 2007, a fact recorded by water level markers near the door of the pub. Such a trailblazing pub cannot be ignored. Without The Fat Cat, it seems likely that real ale never would have gotten as much of a foothold in the local area. There was no way we weren't going to visit. This is another pub that I'd visited on a previous trip and I was eager to go back. Despite being of small size, the bar here more than makes up for it, with 9 handpulls on the bar. There were a number of interesting things to choose from here with Timothy Taylor Landlord, Beartown Eclipse, Little Critters Roasty Toasty, Derby Easy, Neepsend Fat Cat, Beartown Bearly Spring, Ashover ABC and Buxton Well Well available, alongside Broadoak Rhubarb cider. The keg range here is fairly standard so on this occasion, Amy joined me in a half of Bearly Spring which, for both of us, came to a reasonable £4.20. This turned out to be a good choice. At 4.2%, it's a golden ale with notes of citrus, orange and grapefruit, and herbal coconut flavours from the use of Sorachi Ace hops. It's certainly an interesting concoction and unlike anything else we'd tried that day. The Fat Cat has been rightly commended for its beer quality and range and its commitment to real ale. It was just a shame that, on the day, there wasn't much of an atmosphere. There were only a couple of other customers in and no background music but, given that it was the middle of the day on a Thursday, this probably isn't that unusual. Don't let it put you off. This is a destination pub and no mistake. 

We had somewhere a touch more contemporary awaiting us now. Leaving the Fat Cat behind, we turned right and then right again, making our way down Little Kelham Street. This led us round the back of a new development and we ended up approaching our next stop from behind. Time now, for Salt.


Part of the new Green Lane development, this building was formerly the Stew & Oyster before its purchase by the current owners. It is now part of the SALT pub group, owned by Ossett Brewery, and operates as a modern pub/restaurant. Internally, it's very much industrial chic vibes with minimalist decor. The bar is to the rear of the front room and there is an outdoor area spread around the entrance. Seating is primarily long, low upholstered benches with wooden tables, and some higher stools. Large concertina doors to one side let in extra light and can be opened to the outside area in fine weather. Food is available in the form of Korean chicken options. The beer choices are, unsurprisingly, a showcase of Ossett and Salt products, with 4 handpulls and several keg lines. On the day, 3 of these handpulls were in use, offering a choice between Ossett Yorkshire Blonde and White Rat, with Lilley's Pineapple as a cider option. I went for a half of White Rat and Amy settled for a half of Huck-a-Back from the keg range. The total cost was £5.70. We made our way around to a table near the open kitchen. This is a well-appointed modern addition to Kelham Island's arguably more traditional scene. That doesn't mean it's out of place though. It's a good use of a building that is at the heart of recent redevelopment. Ossett and Salt are very much the epitome of a successful marriage between traditional and modern ideals and this place reflects that wholeheartedly. The White Rat was in excellent condition, as you'd pretty much expect. Plus, where else can you sit under a mural of slightly sinister, brightly coloured, alpaca mugshots?

We were well into the home stretch now with just a handful of pubs left to visit. Of the remaining quartet, 3 of the 4 have featured in these blogs before but, as with the other revisited venues on this particular trip, it would be interesting to see what, if anything had changed in the intervening time since I was last here. Our next stops would, once again, be fairly close to our present location so there would not be much time spent in terms of getting to them. Leaving Salt, we turned left and headed down Green Lane, almost retracing our steps. At the point where Green Lane and Alma Street merge, we instead continued straight, heading down Russell Street, where yet another iconic Sheffield pub was lying in wait. Our attentions turned to the Kelham Island Tavern. 


This Good Beer Guide 2026 listed boozer is a multiple award winner. Not only is it the current CAMRA Branch Pub of the Year, it has won the same award 18 times since 2004. It is also a former National Pub of the Year, having claimed that accolade in consecutive years for 2008 and 2009. Relatively small in stature, it consists of two rooms with a garden to the rear. It was rescued from dereliction in 2002 and has gone from strength to strength ever since, cementing its reputation as another must-visit pub in the local area. The bar occupies a large portion of the front room, which features bare boards, wooden tables and chairs, and banquette seating under the front windows. The second room, visible through an internal partition, is more of the same, with a set of doors leading to the award-winning garden. Decor consists primarily of framed prints and photos of the local area, beer-related artwork and the pub's impressive collection of CAMRA awards. The bar is absolutely jammed with beer options. A whopping 13 handpumps are in constant use with a wide array of options. On the day, we really were spoiled for choice: Blue Bee Stout with No Name, Abbeydale Vespers, Blue Bee Five Malt Mild, Acorn Barnsley Bitter, Ideal Day Grain Store, Blue Bee Nectaron Nelson Pale, Trig Cirrus, Blue Bee Little Nectaron, Only With Love Yacht Rock, Blue Bee American Five Hop, Abbeydale Moonshine, Pictish Talisman IPA and Blue Bee Bessemer Blonde. From amongst this bevy of intriguing sounding delights, I eventually decided on the Cirrus. Amy went for a half of a keg pale ale from Cloudwater, with a total cost for both of £5.50. We managed to procure a table just off from the bar, very close to where a very lovely dog was taking up quite a substantial amount of floorspace by having a nice lie down. We tried, but failed to get his attention, more's the pity. Perhaps we'd have better luck next time. We'd lucked out by coming here though. I'd forgotten quite how fantastic a place the Kelham Island Tavern is. Quite apart from the sheer amount of beer on offer, it's a cracking little pub and more than deserves the reputation it has built. The beer we bought was a case in point. From Trig Brewery, who are apparently based in York, Cirrus (4.8%) is a hazy pale ale. Nelson Sauvin, El Dorado and Mosaic hops combine for a vibrant, juicy flavour profile. The bitterness is fairly restrained and the finish is refreshing. All-in-all, it's a fresh, hoppy treat!

The Kelham Island Tavern had reinforced its strengths on our visit. Would the next place, another repeat offender, pull off the same trick? We had another short walk ahead of us. Crossing Russell Street from the front door, we continued down the road to a traffic island. Crossing over once again, we soon approached our next destination, which lies on Gibraltar Street. Time to visit Shakespeare's Ale & Cider House.


This former Georgian coaching inn re-opened in July 2011 after an 18 month period of closure. It was rescued by William Wagstaff, a real ale and live music fan who also had the New Beehive Inn in Bradford. He returned the pub to its former glory and has seen it become one of Sheffield's premier real ale destination pubs. It is a frequent listing in the Good Beer Guide, including for 2026. Alongside a frequently excellent beer choice, live music is a prominent feature, with a room upstairs utilised for such a purpose. On the ground floor, there are multiple rooms arranged around a central corridor. The bar is in a room to the right, where there are a small number of tables and chairs. A room opposite this is decorated in a similar fashion, with yet another room further along the corridor, where the toilets can also be found. The rear garden includes remnants of its previous life as a coach yard, with distinctive stone paving. Throughout, the furniture is simple wood but the decor is unique. Old beer adverts, newspaper prints, brass plates and pump clips can be seen in every room, with fairy lights festooned in between. One room includes an original grandfather clock. Subtle (and not so subtle) nods to the pub's namesake playwright can also be found. Shakespeare's is a haven of bric-a-brac and beery artefacts, as well as its renowned beer selection. Speaking of which, the bar features 8 handpulls, which often feature styles and breweries less commonly seen in these parts. At the time of our visit, the choices were RedWillow Feckless, Amity Thunderdome, Abbeydale Dave's Deception, Little Critters Spot-On, Marble Theia, Triple Point Mild and Abbeydale Salvation. Given the available options, I was never going to pass on a beer called Thunderdome. A half for me and a half of Triple Point Cryo for Amy came to £4.95, which is a bargain. We enjoyed our drinks in the left hand room and things were about to get even more enjoyable. I went to the loo and took some photos of the pub whilst I was up. By the time I had returned, there was a dog in the room, and not just any dog. It was the dog from the last pub! He turned out to be a Mastiff/Cane Corso cross called Frank, who was lovely and got lots of fuss from us both. We also had a really lovely chat with his owners. It was a thoroughly good time and, by the time we left, they were intensely examining the aforementioned grandfather clock as they apparently had a similar one at home. That was the excuse they used anyway...... What of the beer though? It was great! Thunderdome (4.9%) is a pale ale with Strata hops, brewed to celebrate the opening of the second taproom for Pudsey-based Amity. Citrus, passionfruit and strawberry flavours really come to the fore and it's very sessionable. This was a great beer and Shakespeare's is a great place. It's full of real olde worlde charm and plenty of character. It's truly fantastic. It's managed to retain the heart and soul of what a pub should be and we could easily have stayed here all evening. In the end though, all good things must come to an end and we had a couple more pubs still to visit. 

The final two pubs of the trip were fast approaching. To reach them, we would have a little bit more walking to do but the route would take us back towards the station in plenty of time for our return train. Leaving Shakespeare's, we headed onwards down Gibraltar and West Bar before turning right. Our route back took us down North Church Street, via the cathedral, and eventually along Arundel Gate, before we passed the central campus of Sheffield Hallam University. We continued down Eyre Street, emerging onto Charles Street, where we located the Red Lion. 


This former Ward's pub, with original etched windows, is nestled in the back streets not far from the station. The layout encompasses a traditional pub design but it has been extended to one side. Internally, the bar is to the left and curves around. The floor is carpeted, with furniture consisting of traditional scrubbed wood tables and chairs. The layout is split-level with a raised area to the rear. The extension is to the side of this and features a pool table and conservatory. There is some on-street seating to the front of the pub. Mirrors and old photos of the area are the order of the day as far as wall decoration goes. Sports TVs can be found throughout. Admittedly, this was a wild card to break up the journey back to the station but, so far so good. There is good beer to be found here. Of the 4 handpulls on the bar, 3 of them were in use, offering both Blonde and Barnsley Bitter from Stancill, alongside Bradfield Farmers Blonde. With not much of a craft beer offering to speak of, Amy joined me in a half of the Blonde, which totalled £4.80 for us both. We found a small table in the raised section in which to take in our surroundings. As the evening was wearing on, the pub was noticeably busy but by no means rammed. The Red Lion is a pleasant enough traditional pub and the Blonde was in good condition. This place certainly seems to benefit from a reliable trade in regulars, as well as passing foot traffic. You can definitely do worse than spend time here. 

We had one final pub left before our itinerary was complete. After leaving The Red Lion, we went left to the end of Charles Lane, where we turned right onto Arundel Street. This we again followed to the end, where another left turn took us onto Brown Street. Last stop before home, was at the Rutland Arms.


This Good Beer Guide 2026 listed pub, with its impressive tiled exterior, was originally built in 1936, by local brewery Gilmour's, and occupies the site of their original 1902 build. The previous layout featured a taproom and servery on the left and the lounge on the right, although this was all combined into a single room in 1952 and then altered again in 1988. The previous division between the two areas can still be discerned inside. One original window, still bearing the Gilmour's etching, has remained and there is much Art Deco glasswork throughout the interior. There is also a beer garden to the rear. When we arrived the pub was rammed, to the point where it was initially standing room only. I've visited this pub before and it was very busy then too, so this is obviously a common occurrence and a very welcome one from a longevity point of view. The decor is mismatched and quirky with lots of odd artefacts including the top half of a mannequin dressed up in various items, and pump clips and beer mats on the walls that have had their names changed to rude words. There's a proper hustle and bustle about the place and, even before we got served, it was clear that everybody involved was having a great time. The staff were in great form and the customers were a real mix of clientele, from students to professionals, as well as older people too. It's exactly the sort of buzz that you'd want a pub to have, especially when it isn't even the weekend. As well as its reputation as a fun place to be, the Rutland Arms also prides itself on superb beer. 7 handpulls can be found here and all of these happened to be in use with some very interesting choices. The final choice of real ales for the day consisted of Blue Bee Reet Pale, Blue Bee Hillfoot, Indie Rabble Fairy Trampoline, Imperial Anything Pale, Courier The Days of the Phoenix, Abbeydale Motueka NEIPA and Elusive Transit. With a moment to choose, I went for a half of Transit, whilst Amy a selected of half of a Kernel pale ale from the keg range. All told, our round came to £5.70. Conveniently, our purchase coincided with some nearby high stools becoming free so we weren't standing up for too long. The Transit (5.0%) turned out to be a good beer to finish on. It's characterised as an export India porter. The use of three different hops (Jester, Emperor and Citra) have added notes of pine resin, grapefruit and citrus, which intermingle nicely with the bitterness of coffee and roasted malt. I'd not had many dark beers on the day and this was a good one. With how busy the Rutland Arms was, it would have been easy to get overwhelmed. However, it had the opposite effect. We loved our time here. It was as good as I remember it being and a place that we could comfortably have spent a lot more time in. As with a lot of the pubs we'd visited on the day, the Rutland Arms can be seen as a standard bearer for real ale and craft beer in Sheffield. It's earned its success and I'd go back there again in a heartbeat. It seemed a shame to leave the fun but leave we unfortunately had to. 

A few minutes later, upon our return train, we had a lot to discuss about our day. It had been brilliant! It's hard to talk about Sheffield's beer and pub scene without immediately getting misty-eyed and waxing lyrical, but it really is that good here. It's no exaggeration to say that the Steel City is one of the best places you can go for a beer in the UK. It flies the flag for real ale, for craft beer and for British brewing. There's a neat juxtaposition that finds a city that's so entangled with Britain's industrial heritage at the forefront of the wave of a different industry and a different craft. All of the pubs on our trip, and a lot more across the city besides, are doing their best to weather the storm. Without cities like Sheffield, with its tenacity, its grit and its determination to showcase what brewers, breweries, publicans and the like do so well, the pub and beer scene would be in a much worse state than it already is. What a day it had been. I can't say enough about how much a trip to Sheffield is worth it. A city forged on seven hills, has forged something stronger than the alloy from which it takes its nickname: a pub scene to be truly proud of. 

Pub of the Day: The Rutland Arms. There's a reason it's always so busy. A gem.

Honourable mention: Shakespeare's Ale & Cider House. A absolute standout in an area of great pubs.

Beer of the Day: Ossett x Vault City: Swally Rat. Arguably one of the best stouts I've ever had.

Biggest surprise: Riverside. Good beer, good food, unsophisticated and comfortable.