Damp in Derbyshire

Generally, there are three ways that a location, or a specific area, ends up on my radar for a future pub trip. It could be a place that has a reputation for beer already and that, more often than not, has a well established pub scene that puts it firmly in my sights. Alternatively, it could be somewhere I've heard about via word of mouth, be that recommendations from friends or in writing in a magazine or similar publication. The third way is often a product of curiosity and usually involves me spotting somewhere that sounds interesting whilst I'm on my way to someplace else, quite often for another pub trip. The third way would prove useful in setting me on my way to my most recent excursion. Last year, whilst on the train to either Burton-on-Trent or Birmingham (I can't remember which), I happened to glance out of the window a short distance out from Derby station as the train glided into the next stop. It had stopped at a place called Willington. Whilst I waited for the train to continue on, I happened to notice a couple of pubs in the centre of the village, virtually opposite each other. Curiosity piqued, I later looked into this and discovered that, not only does Willington actually boast three pubs in close proximity to each other, but it also has a couple of neighbouring villages that also happen to have pubs. 

Which is how, on a decidedly wet and dreary Thursday, I found myself braving the rain to investigate a trio of settlements in South Derbyshire. I had been hooked by the briefest sight of Willington's pubs and now I had formulated a plan. Willington is situated between Derby and Burton and accessible by both train and bus. Whilst it was the former that had given me the spark of imagination to investigate in the first place, trains to and from Willington are decidedly infrequent. Instead, I opted for the bus which, whilst still only departing once an hour, is better than the 2 or 3 hour wait that the trains would have afforded me. My plan was, on paper, fairly straightforward. I would visit Willington, the neighbouring village of Repton and the hamlet of Milton, which lies slightly further away, visiting pubs in each. I had decided that it made the best logistical sense to start furthest away and work my way back in, so that it was easier for me to time my return journey. The journey itself would be a fairly long one. A bus to Derby, followed by a bus from Derby that would take me through Willington and directly to Repton. Milton isn't served by public transport so I would walk from Repton to Milton and back and then eventually make my way back to Willington. In theory, this would be a decent day out, with lots to explore. Admittedly, I hadn't banked on the weather being a factor. The day of my trip was the Thursday before the weekend of Download Festival which, in itself, is notorious for angering the weather gods. I got the Red Arrow bus from Nottingham, arriving in Derby a few minutes before 11am. My bus, the V3, was scheduled to depart at 11.05 so I didn't have too long to wait. A few minutes later and I was on my way, the bus making its way through Derby and the associated suburbs, as the rain came down. In truth, it would be wet for virtually the whole day but I would do my best to not let it dampen my spirits. Approximately 30 minutes later, I disembarked the bus in the centre of the village of Repton. My initial travels were not yet complete however. The hamlet of Milton lies over a mile from Repton and, as I wasn't driving, the best way to get there was to walk. Determined, I headed down Brook End, a road adjacent to the bus stop. My walk would take me around half an hour. After a few minutes, I turned right onto Milton Road, which leads directly to the toponymous settlement. Whilst the opening stages of my walk were on standard pavements, which were well-maintained, as soon as I left Repton I found myself restricted to a single, narrow path, which runs parallel to the main road. In and of itself, this wouldn't have been an issue, but the edges of the path had become wild and overgrown and the rain had made everything sopping wet. The majority of the walk saw me traipsing through encroaching vegetation, getting wetter and wetter from the knees down. On a drier day, this would have been a much more pleasant walk. On this occasion, I was grateful when the path widened and the properly-appointed pavement had returned. This signalled my entrance to Milton, and I followed the curve of the road round in the direction of where I knew my first stop was located. 

Milton is a hamlet 6 miles south-west of Derby and 1.5 miles east of Repton. Its population is around 200. It is thought to have been established by the Saxons between 500 and 550 AD. It is featured in the Domesday Book as Berewite of Middletune (Hamlet of Middle Farmstead). The Swan Inn is now the only pub after the Coach House reverted to a private dwelling in 2000 (foreshadowing). Nearby are Ingleby, Bretby, Foremark Reservoir and Foremarke Hall, home to Repton Preparatory School. I was very much in need of a fortifying beverage after my trek. Luckily, I soon found what I was looking for. On the left as I continued into Milton, I found the aforementioned Swan Inn. 

Set on the roadside, The Swan is an imposing building that dates back more than 200 years. The single entrance leads into a small foyer, with doors leading left and right. A handwritten sign on the right hand door indicated that I should go left, and so I did. This leads through into a large, comfortable bar area. The servery is square and sits in the centre. Bare wood floors and traditional wooden furniture can be found here, along with a real fire to one side. Pew-style seating is located around the perimeter of the room, with a handful of high, upholstered stools. The ceiling is green-painted but also retains original beams. Photos of the local area are displayed on the walls. The additional room, accessed through the right hand door as you enter, leads to a separate restaurant area. The toilets are located through a door to the rear of the bar room. A small beer garden is to the rear and there is also an area of picnic benches to the front of the pub, perfect for outside drinking on much more pleasant days than the one I'd chosen to visit on. Upon entering, I was greeted by the very pleasant gentleman on duty who asked me if I'd walked far. Given my dishevelled and sodden appearance, it was no stroke of detective work to figure out that I'd braved the journey on foot. I explained that I'd come from Repton on foot, so not far at all. The small talk gave me the chance to peruse the beer options, for real ale can indeed be found here. A bank of 4 is on the bar. On the day, 3 of these were in use, offering a choice of Bass and two beers from Dancing Duck, namely Ay Up and the fantastically named Duck Norris. It really was a no-brainer going for such a well-named beer, especially as it was a beer that was new to me. I parted with the sum of £5.20 and was instructed to take a seat and my beer would be brought to me. There seemed to be some sort of slight dispense issue but this appeared to be quickly rectified as, by the time I'd been to the loo and come back, it had been placed on my chosen table, a pew adjacent to a window that looked out onto the street. I was directly facing the door to the bar, which gave me a prime viewing spot when a small group of walkers came in on what was apparently their first visit to a pub, possibly ever, given the faff they made of ordering or even asking for the location of the toilet. Back to the beer though and the Duck Norris had been a good choice. Named for the late martial arts champion and actor, this is a 4.6% pale ale. It boasts aromas of gooseberry and peach, and flavours of mango and passionfruit, backed by biscuity, mellow malt and a hoppy bitterness. Not only was it a much-needed thirst quencher, it's a delicious beer. As a new beer for me, it's quite the find. And so too is The Swan. Unpretentious and comfortable, it's the epitome of a decent, homely country pub with a warm welcome and traditional values, and inclusive of everyone. It's an oasis of calm on an inclement day and the perfect place to rejuvenate and dry off. Making the effort to reach the pub had certainly been worthwhile and I would suggest seeking it out in the event that you're ever in the area. 

With my pint supped and the rain, for now, slackened off, I eyed up my return journey. Having briefly investigated two nearby public footpaths, I reasoned that I didn't want to venture into unknown territory in a place that I'd never been to before so quickly decided that my smartest route back into Repton would be to retrace my steps. The return journey seemed to go at a much a quicker pace, although I was quickly soaked through again by the saturated foliage. I once again reached Repton and this time, having reached the spot where I'd initially disembarked, I turned left and continued down High Street, deeper into the village. On my journey, I noticed several details that hinted at Repton's history. What is that history? Observe. Repton is a village and lies on the edge of the River Trent floodplain, approximately 5 miles (8 km) north of Swadlincote and about 5 miles (8 km) northeast of Burton upon Trent, close to the county boundary with Staffordshire. The population was recorded as 2,707 in the 2001 census and 2,867 in the 2011 census, with an estimated population of around 3,000 in 2021 based on Office for National Statistics small-area modelling.

Repton is notable for its Anglo-Saxon ecclesiastical heritage, including the site of Repton Abbey, the medieval Repton Priory, and the Anglo-Saxon St Wystan's Church. It is also the location of Repton School, one of England’s historic public schools. Archaeological evidence indicates human activity at Repton from the late Mesolithic and Neolithic periods. Cropmarks and enclosure features suggest continued occupation into the Roman and early Anglo-Saxon periods, reflecting long-term settlement in the Trent valley region. Christianity was reintroduced to the Midlands at Repton, where members of the Mercian royal family under Peada were baptised in AD 653. A double monastery under an abbess was subsequently established.

In 669 St Chad, Bishop of Mercia, transferred his episcopal see from Repton to Lichfield. Later, under King Offa, Lichfield briefly became an archiepiscopal centre, with Repton forming part of the ecclesiastical development that led to the short-lived archdiocese of Lichfield. At the centre of the village is the Church of England parish church dedicated to Wystan (or Wigstan) of Mercia. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records that in 873–874 the Great Heathen Army overwintered at Repton. Archaeological investigations led by Martin and Birthe Biddle identified a D-shaped earthwork and associated burials, though interpretations of its scale and function have since been debated. Subsequent excavations by Cat Jarman and Mark Horton from 2015 onwards revealed additional structures and graves, including artefacts consistent with Viking activity. A mass burial containing at least 264 individuals has been interpreted as linked to the Viking presence, with artefacts and radiocarbon evidence supporting a late 9th-century date. An early account records that in the 17th century Thomas Walker uncovered a burial mound containing human remains, later associated with the same archaeological complex. Repton remained a predominantly rural settlement after the medieval period, with agriculture forming the basis of its economy. Parliamentary enclosure of Repton Common in 1766 formalised the redistribution of common land into private holdings. In the 19th century, improved regional infrastructure transformed connectivity, particularly following the development of river crossings and the opening of nearby railway facilities at Willington in 1839. These changes supported the expansion of Repton School, which developed significantly under Steuart Adolphus Pears. The historic core of Repton is now designated a conservation area reflecting its exceptional architectural and archaeological continuity.

Anyone who reads these entries or, let's face it, anyone who even knows me at all, knows that I do enjoy history so it was a real treat to be immersed in such an historic village. Truth be told, I hadn't known much about Repton's historical significance until I began looking into it properly so it came as a pleasant surprise. Another historic part of the village was in my sights now though. Continuing down High Street for a few more yards, I located my next stop, on the opposite side of the road. Next up was The Bulls Head. 

This large, whitewashed building dates from the early 1800s, when it was used as a slaughterhouse and a butchery, an origin that has been recognised in the current name. It has been extensively modernised in recent years and leans into the cattle theming throughout. Entrance to the pub is through the car park and I soon found myself in a well-appointed interior. Beams and exposed brick create an ambience that reflects the building's age. A large, single room houses a large horseshoe-shaped bar with modern seating located around it. A larger seating area, which acts as a restaurant, is accessed through the main bar area. The decor is a good mix of modern and traditional, with a large bar counter, subtle, contemporary lighting, original fireplaces and lots of opened out areas that create more space. Fairy lights hang in areas of the back bar and there are bull-inspired neon signs at various points. The toilets are accessed via an alcove not far from the entrance. Whilst much of the seating is arranged around the bar, there are stools at the bar itself. The modern aspects of the pub give it a really chic and upmarket feel without it feeling too soulless. I was pleased to see that real ale is available here too. 6 handpulls occupy the bar and a trio of these were in use, offering Marston's Pedigree, Fullers London Pride and Dark Star Hophead. Having ascertained that it was OK to sit at the bar, I ordered a pint of Pride, which cost me £4.90. Just a note that payment here is by card only. I sat on a stool, slowly drip drying, whilst I took in the sights around me, not least the delicious looking food that was going out to various tables in quite substantial portions. The Bulls Head is certainly a different proposition to the Swan from earlier in the day but, all the same, it's a relaxing place with an easy-going vibe, at least in the middle of the day on a Thursday. The Pride was in decent condition too, which is always a result. I spent an enjoyable few minutes here, acclimatising to the village and recovering from the walk back.

Before long though, it was time to move on again. This time, I had nowhere near as far to go. My next stop kept me within Repton and was actually somewhere I'd passed earlier on, prior to opening time. Leaving the Bulls Head through a door to the side (the pub has a one-way system for entrance and exit) I retraced my steps back up the High Street until I reached a road on my right. This is Boot Hill, where you will find The Boot. 

 

Brought back to life by the local Bespoke Pub Company, the Boot sits close to the centre of the village. Years of neglect were overturned by the current ownership, who undertook a considerable refurbishment and modernisation program that resurrected the pub into its current form. The front door leads through into the main bar area, where an L-shaped servery occupies space in the centre. Directly next to this is a public bar space with wooden tables and chairs, some banquette seating, and high tables in the centre of the room. To the right as you enter, a larger, longer space is primarily used for dining. The decor here is bright and modern. Fun slogans and signs are displayed on the walls, alongside contemporary artwork. The flooring is largely bare wood but there are areas of tiling around the bar. The toilets are located to the rear of the bar room, where there is also a rear door that leads to the car park but can also be used as an entrance. When the pub originally opened, a microbrewery, the aptly named Boot Beer, was installed in a building to the rear of the pub. The pub still serves a couple of these ales regularly, alongside changing guests. My arrival at The Boot coincided with the presence of a wedding party, fresh from the ceremony. Once I'd eventually squeezed through and made my apologies, I was confronted with 7 handpulls, 6 of which were in use. Alongside Clodhopper and Boot Bitter from Boot Beer, there was also Bass, Red Dog Ales Pine Strike and Green Duck Immortal, with the final pump reserved for Three Cats cider. Following a moment's perusal and a brief chat with a regular who was perched at the bar, during which we discussed the weather, I made my choice. Eschewing the local beers, I instead went for the Pine Strike (4.6%), from Nottingham based Red Dog Ales, a brewery that share space and kit with Lenton Lane Brewery. This cost £5.20. I moved away from the bar and sat at a high table, giving the wedding party space and allowing myself more room. I could immediately see why the happy couple had chosen this place for their post-nuptials drinks. The Boot is a very nice pub indeed. As well as being bright and welcoming, it has a real quirky personality about it. Fair play to the Bespoke Pub Company for creating a place that makes you want to stay for a long time. This is actually the sister pub to a couple of others in the local area so they're doing something very right. This honestly is a gem of a place, helped by the quality of the beer. The Pine Strike was sensational. It's a pale ale, brewed with Mosaic and Amarillo hops. This packs the beer with fruity and earthy notes and leads to a smooth, piney finish. It's an absolute winner. As is The Boot. I wasn't sure what I was expecting to find but I'd stumbled onto a cracking pub. It's a completely different beast to the Bulls Head but all the better for it. 

I left the Boot reluctantly and through the back door. My next intended stop wasn't too far away though. Heading back up the main road towards the cross at the village centre, I took a left onto Burton Road. Tucked slightly away from the road is the Red Lion. 

This traditional looking pub is the third amongst the trio of such in Repton. I was looking forward to seeing how it would compare to its neighbours. However, my hopes were about to be dashed. I approached the pub, only to find the door locked and no sign of life inside. This was odd. Multiple online sources suggested that the pub should definitely have been open at the time I was in the area. According to one source, the pub is up for lease but I saw no signage at the pub that confirmed this. I was stumped. I later came to the conclusion that the opening hours have likely been changed to reflect trade but Google and the CAMRA website haven't been updated with the new information. In situations like this, I almost always find that a pub's individual website is usually the most accurate. In this case though, the Red Lion doesn't have one, which left me none the wiser. 

Perturbed but not too disheartened, I changed my plans. Serendipitously, being unable to visit the Red Lion meant that I was only a few minutes away from the next bus back to Willington, which was definitely a tempting option and would have saved me the walk, which had been my original plan. I used the time to make the most of the local bus shelter and had my lunch whilst I waited for the bus. Soon enough, my carriage awaited and I was on my way back to Willington, the final stop on this tour. Willington is a village. The 2001 Census recorded a parish population of 2,604, increasing to 2,862 at the 2011 Census. The 2021 Census recorded a population of 3,277 incorporating the expanded Mercia Marina and full parish boundary.

The toponym Willington is derived from the Old English tun (homestead or farm) among the willows. In the Domesday Book, the village is called Willetune or Willentune, and the land was held by Ralph FitzHubert and was an agricultural village on the flood plain of the Trent. The village is recorded as Wilintun in about 1150 and as Wyliton in 1230. Willington, in the hundred of Morleston and Litchurch, comprised two estates as recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, one held by the king in demesne, the other by Ralph FitzHubert. King Henry II (1154–1189) gave a manor in Willington to Burton Abbey. This estate was held in 1539 from Burton Abbey by George Finderne, Esquire. John Meynell, Esquire, died seised of it in 1561 and it was sold in 1760 by his descendant Hugo Meynell, Esq. to Sir Henry Harpur, 6th Baronet (1739–1789), the father of Sir Henry Crewe, 7th Baronet (1763–1819) who was the proprietor in 1817. No remains survive of the Meynell's manor house. The other manor appears to have been held from FitzHubert by the de Willington family, which took its name from the manor. It appears to have given this manor together with the advowson of the church to Repton Abbey, to whom the tithes were appropriated in 1223. The de Willingtons were later seated at Yate and Sandhurst in Gloucestershire, and later at Umberleigh in Devon. In about 1554 William Westcote conveyed this manor to Sir John Port (d.1557), founder of Repton School and of the hospital at Etwall, and in 1817 it continued to form part of the estate belonging to those foundations, which also held the tithes and advowson of the vicarage.

In the 17th century Willington became the highest navigable port on the Trent. It first began to grow from a population of 477 with the construction of the Trent and Mersey Canal in 1777, the same year Bass beer in Burton was started, at which time it became a small inland port and a village with four public houses: the Railway (which was later demolished), the Rising Sun, the Green Man and the Green Dragon (now just called The Dragon), all selling locally brewed beers from Burton upon Trent for the many Irish canal navvies. The railway was built in 1838, the railway station being called Repton and Willington railway station and brought the scholars to nearby Repton School. The main-line station was closed in 1964 but a new station was opened in the 1990s as part of the (incomplete) Ivanhoe Line project to link Leicester and Burton-on-Trent and runs mainline trains to Derby, Birmingham and beyond. The village's population increased to 708 by 1940. Trentside Cottage, Bargate Lane is the oldest cottage in the village. A 200-year-old Cedar of Lebanon lies on the site of the now-demolished Potlock's Farm on Twyford Road in the village. The bridge over the Trent was opened on 7 August 1839, being the only one between Swarkestone and Burton. To commemorate the centenary of the abolishing of the bridge toll in 1898, an annual raft race has been held since 1998 from nearby Newton Solney along the River Trent to Willington's bridge. In 1995 Willington railway station was re-opened at a cost of £565,000 funded by the EU. Some scenes from the 2018 film "Get Gone" were filmed at Willington train station.

Mere minutes after departing Repton, I was disembarking at Willington. I deliberately got off the bus just outside the village centre, a few yards from where the railway viaduct crosses the main road. I had a trio of pubs left to visit, all close to each other. Doing so would close the circle that opened when first I espied said pubs from a train window all those months ago. Heading under the viaduct, I emerged at a traffic island that consists of a set of double roundabouts, effectively the central point of this small village. Taking a right, I made my way up The Green. I crossed over and headed towards the first of two pubs that are virtually next door to each other. First up, The Dragon.

Accessed by crossing the large car park, The Dragon, formerly known as the Green Dragon, dates back well over 150 years and owes its presence to the construction of the Trent & Mersey Canal. It was originally constructed to provide refreshment for the workers building the canal in the 18th century. A renovation in 2011 added a new seating area to the rear with views over the canal. The pub was also recently extended into the neighbouring cottage to create a new dining area. Inside, the pub is large and spacious, with bare wood flooring and some tiled areas. Original beams remain in situ and these have been whitewashed, which contrasts nicely with the green painted walls. A long bar counter, in wood and reclaimed brick, runs along one part of the wall. Seating is primarily wooden tables and chairs, alongside some higher stools. The internal layout is one of several smaller areas, adding intimacy and comfort in what is otherwise a fairly open plan layout. An original fireplace sits near the entrance and there is a restaurant area to the rear. It's worth noting that the toilets are up two flights of stairs, accessed through a door near the bar. The Dragon is a sister pub to The Boot at Repton and so some of the aesthetic remains the same, although the The Boot, being smaller, has a cosier feel. Unsurprisingly, real ale features here too. 7 handpulls take up space on the bar. On the day, 6 of these were in use, with a choice between Boot Brew Boot Bitter and Clodhopper again, as well as Bass, Morland's Old Session Hen, Green Duck Meltdown and Little The Panther. For a moment, I considered giving one of the local options a go but instead I opted for the Meltdown (4.6%) from Stourbridge based Green Duck. A pint set me back £5.10 and I retreated to a quiet high table not far from the bar. Given The Dragon's associations with The Boot, I was surprised at how different it felt. Where The Boot felt cosy and intimate, The Dragon felt comfortable and welcoming in a less obvious way. Still, I was made to feel like I belonged and it's definitely a very nice place. The beer wasn't half bad either. Meltdown is a pale ale, brewed with Bru-1. This provides big flavours of pineapple. The addition of Amarillo hops balances this with distinctive orange tones. It's a beer worth seeking out, from a brewery that I'm gradually becoming more accustomed to. I enjoyed my time at The Dragon, despite the almighty climb to the gents which is akin to the lengths you normally have to go to to find the loos at a certain budget pub chain. Still, as village pubs go, you can certainly do much worse. 

A short distance back down The Green was all that was needed now as my next stop is a literal stone's throw away. Leaving The Dragon behind me, my attentions now turned to the Rising Sun. 

Originally three houses known as Rising Sun Cottages, this building became one structure in 1940 when it was converted to a pub. Despite appearing fairly large from the outside, the pub footprint itself is relatively small, occupying the smaller part of the structure, visible on the left in the photo above. A newly refurbished restaurant occupies the adjoining part of the building. Inside, a single long room houses a bar to the right, with seating opposite. At the end of the room is a games area with a pool table and dartboard. This area has bare wood floors, with the main bar space floored in terracotta tiling. The furniture is mostly high round tables with stools although there are high-backed stools at the bar and an upholstered settle adjacent to the entrance. The toilets are through a door between the two sections. A piano sits at the end of the bar and there are various amplifiers arranged along one wall. Without realising, I'd discovered a music pub. Framed photos of music legends and famous album covers take pride of place on the walls. The in-house system was tuned to Planet Rock radio. I had a feeling I'd like this place. A glance at the bar confirmed as much, with a bank of 3 in plain sight. The options before me were Pedigree, Wainwright Gold and Brains Rev James. It had been ages since I'd had Rev James so it was a no brainer to give it a go here, at the acceptable price of £5 for a pint. I took a seat at the junction of the bar and games rooms and took in my surroundings a bit more. The football World Cup would start that evening, and is in progress as I type, so there were flags of the competing nations draped along the ceiling. Before long, the landlord, who had served me, engaged me in conversation, asking where I was visiting from and what I did for a job. We had a really good natter about the current hardships facing hospitality, the difficulties of the job and the joys that come with it. It really was a good chat and he was a very pleasant man who seemed genuinely interested in what I thought about the state of the industry and also in my opinions of the pubs I'd already visited. He also confirmed that the Red Lion in Repton sometimes opens later in the day and that it is the best pub in the village. Now he tells me! The Rising Sun had turned out to be a great find! I was genuinely surprised to find such a homely and welcoming pub, with an emphasis on decent music and great beer. And the beer was great, that's for sure. The Rev James was in fantastic condition, reiterating for me that it's a beer that I need to drink more often. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here, chatting shop in a no-frills, down-to-earth boozer, with a landlord who embodies his establishment to a tee. 

I had one stop left now and, once again, I had no virtually no distance to travel to get there. It sits opposite the Rising Sun, adjacent to the twin traffic islands. Last on the list, the Green Man.

The only pub in Willington, and the sole pub of the day, to feature in the 2026 Good Beer Guide, the Green Man has recently benefited from a substantial refurbishment and is in the process of changing management, with a long-serving member of staff set to take the helm. The entrance leads directly into the bar area. The bar counter is roughly in the middle of the pub, with a bar area immediately in front and a lounge area to one side. The bar section is bare wood, with traditional wooden furniture. The more comfortable lounge is carpeted and features upholstered banquette seating. The whitewashed ceiling includes original beams. TVs can be found throughout the pub, usually showing sport and there is also a large garden to the rear with some partly covered seating. The internal walls of the pub are decorated with local history photos as well as representations of the pagan nature spirit from which the pub gets its name. The Green Man was fairly busy when I arrived, and the rain had started again, just in case I was in any doubt as to whether I could get any wetter. Still, there was still plenty of seating available and, more importantly, plenty of room to peruse the bar options. There are 6 handpulls here and, at the time of my visit, 4 of these were being used, offering a choice between Bass, Pedigree, Theakston Lightfoot and St. Austell Tribute. My last encounter with Lightfoot had been a good one so I gave it another go here. This would prove to be the cheapest pint of the day, costing £4.60. I chose to take a seat in the lounge to enjoy my pint and also to better absorb the surroundings in my final pub of the day. It's easy to see why the Green Man has a good beer reputation. The Lightfoot was a very tasty drop. More than that, the pub has a real community vibe, which is more important than ever in a time of such upheaval for pubs. It's especially important in smaller communities that people have a place where they can go, be themselves, see people and interact outside of their homes. It seems that the Green Man offers all of that and more in abundance. I felt welcome and it quickly became clear that the locals very much enjoy spending their time here. It's always a good sign when people return to the same pub again and again. The Green Man is a perfect example of a village pub that puts its community first. I was glad I'd had the time to come here. Apart from anything else, this seems to be a pub that truly cares and it appears to be in very safe hands for its next chapter.

And that, ultimately, would be that. I downed the last drops of my delicious pint of Lightfoot and departed, heading back out into the drizzle. The bus stop I needed is right outside the pub and it did at least have a shelter so I was drier than I would have been when the bus arrived and conveyed me back to Derby, before I headed back to Nottingham the way I had come. With my return journey time being over an hour in total, I had much time to consider how my day had gone and whether my feet would ever be dry again. My trip had definitely been worth it. Aside from the appalling weather, the wet feet and one closed pub, I had very much enjoyed my excursion to a hitherto unexplored (by me) corner of Derbyshire. The villages, located as they are between Derby and Burton, or thereabouts, all have their own unique charms and this has certainly spilled over into their pubs. What is always nice is seeing village pubs relatively unaffected by urban sprawl and unswayed by the temptation to be like the pubs in larger towns. There is a quaintness, a cosiness and a defined character about village pubs that cannot be replicated and should not be diluted. If this trip taught me anything, other than to invest in waterproof shoes, it's that we must protect village pubs with everything we've got. They're more than just a place to have a beer after a long walk. For some, probably for most, they're more than that. They're a beacon, a lifeline, a sanctuary and, in a time of increasingly volatile real world discourse, they are, and should be, a safe space.  

Pub of the Day: The Green Man, Willington. A true community pub with its heart in the right place

Honourable Mention: The Swan, Milton. Lovely, comfortable pub that's perfect for a post-walk pint. 

Beer of the Day: Red Dog Ales - Pine Strike. Absolutely superb.

Biggest Surprise: Rising Sun, Willington. Good beer, good music and a very pleasant landlord. Worth a visit. 

Into the Black

One of the best parts of this little hobby that I've cultivated over so many years is undoubtedly the joy of exploration. There's something exciting about visiting a new place, or revisiting an old favourite, and never quite knowing what you're going to find. That can certainly be said for the most recent destination to fall under my scrutiny. Whilst it's a well-known location in general, it was somewhere that I'd previously never visited and certainly somewhere that you would not normally consider as a worthwhile destination for the intrepid beer adventurer. The location in question is probably the UK's best known holiday destination, particularly for those in and around the northwest, and is synonymous with bright lights, beaches, ballroom dancing and a world famous funfair. The town's reputation for fun, frolics and entertainment already very much precedes it but, as is often the case, you can only really know a place by digging deeper, scratching under the surface to find the things that aren't so obvious. Have you figured out where I'm talking about yet? Allow me to shed some illumination: Blackpool. Really?, you must be thinking, but, yes, really. My recent trip saw me heading to the famed seaside town for a weekend. Not only would it be my first visit to the area but also marks the inaugural appearance of the county of Lancashire in this very column. I must stress that I would not be making the journey alone. I would be accompanied by Amy and also by our good friend Aiden, Amy's best friend and former work colleague, who is a frequent visitor to Blackpool and knows the area well. The trip itself had been months in the planning. We'd wanted to go for a while, primarily to spend some time with Aiden outside of Nottingham, but also so that we could fully experience Blackpool in all of its glory, if glory is the right word. Whilst this wouldn't explicitly be a pub trip, I would be remiss in my research if I hadn't looked into what traditional pubs and bars there were to explore, particularly near where we'd be staying. For those of you who, like myself, have previously never been, or, if you're reading this from outside the UK, have potentially never heard of Blackpool, what is there to know about this quintessential seaside spot? Time for some elaboration. 

Blackpool is a seaside town in Lancashire. It is located on the Irish Sea coast of the Fylde peninsula, approximately 27 miles (43 km) north of Liverpool and 14 miles (23 km) west of Preston. It is the main settlement in the borough of the same name.

Blackpool was originally a hamlet; it began to grow in the mid-eighteenth century, when sea bathing for health purposes became fashionable. Blackpool's beach was suitable for this activity and, by 1781, several hotels had been built. The opening of a railway station in 1846 allowed more visitors to reach the resort, which continued to grow for the remainder of the nineteenth century. In 1876, the town became a borough. Blackpool's development was closely tied to the Lancashire cotton-mill practice of annual factory maintenance shutdowns, known as Wakes Weeks, when many workers chose to visit the seaside. The town saw large growth during the late Victorian and Edwardian periods. By 1951, its population had reached 147,000.

In the late 20th century, changing holiday preferences and increased overseas travel impacted Blackpool's standing as a leading resort. Despite economic challenges, the town's urban fabric and economy remain centred around tourism. Today, the seafront continues to draw millions of visitors annually; it features landmarks such as Blackpool Tower, Illuminations, Pleasure Beach and the Winter Gardens. The town is home to football club Blackpool F.C.. The population of Blackpool at the 2021 census was 141,000, a decrease of 1,100 since the 2011 census.

In 1970, a 13,500-year-old elk skeleton was found with a barbed bone point embedded in one leg. Now displayed in the Harris Museum, this find provided the first evidence of humans living on the Fylde. Some of the earliest villages on the Fylde, which were later to become part of Blackpool town, were named in the Domesday Book in 1086.

In medieval times, Blackpool emerged as a few farmsteads on the coast within Layton-with-Warbreck; the name came from "le pull", a stream that drained Marton Mere and Marton Moss into the sea. The stream ran through peatlands that discoloured the water, so the name for the area became "Black Poole". In the 15th century, the area was just called Pul and a 1532 map calls the area "the pole howsys alias the north howsys".

In 1602, entries in the Bispham Parish Church baptismal register include both Poole and for the first time Blackpoole. The first house of any substance, Foxhall, was built by the Tyldesley family of Myerscough Lodge and existed in the latter part of the 17th century. By the end of that century, it was occupied by squire and diarist Thomas Tyldesley, grandson of the Royalist Sir Thomas Tyldesley. An act of Parliament in 1767 enclosed a common, mostly sand hills on the coast, that stretched from Spen Dyke southwards.

In the 18th century, sea bathing gained popularity for health benefits, drawing visitors to Blackpool as a tourist resort. By 1788, there were about 50 houses on the sea bank. Of these around six accommodated wealthy visitors while a number of other private dwellings lodged the "inferior class whose sole motive for visiting this airy region was health." In 1781, The town's amenities, including hotels, archery stall, and bowling greens, slowly expanded. By 1801, the population reached 473. Henry Banks, instrumental in Blackpool's growth, purchased Lane Ends estate in 1819, building the first holiday cottages in 1837.

By the early 19th century, small purpose-built facilities began catering to a middle-class market, although substantial numbers of working people from manufacturing towns were "being drawn to Blackpool's charms." In 1846, a pivotal event marked the early growth of the town: the completion of a railway branch line to Blackpool from Poulton. This spurred development as visitors flocked in by rail, boosting the town's economy. Blackpool prospered with the construction of accommodations and attractions, fostering rapid growth in the 1850s and 1860s. A Board of Health was established in 1851, gas lighting in 1852, and piped water in 1864. The town's population exceeded 2,500 by 1851.

North Pier opened in 1863, designed by Eugenius Birch for Blackpool's "better classes", and always retained its unique qualities of being a quieter, more reflective place compared with Blackpool's other two piers.^[9] The following half century included the construction of two further piers – South Pier (now Central Pier) in 1868 and Victoria (now South Pier) in 1893 – the Winter Gardens (1878), Blackpool Tower (1894) and the earliest surviving rides at Blackpool Pleasure Beach (founded in 1896).

Blackpool's Royal Palace Gardens at Raikes Hall was a world-famous destination for variety and music hall stars from the mid-18th century. It boasted a Grand Opera House, Indian Room for theatrical and variety performances, a Niagara café with cyclorama, a skating rink and fern house, an elaborate conservatory, monkey house, aviary and outside dancing platform for several thousand people. The gardens also had carriage drives and walkways with Grecian and Roman statues for promenaders to enjoy. There was also a boating lake and a racing track with grandstand for several thousand. More than 40,000 visitors passed through its gates during the opening week in 1872.

Working-class tourists dominated the heart of the resort, which was the go-to destination for workers from the industrial north and their families. Entire towns would close down their industries during Wakes Weeks between June and September, with a different town on holiday each week. Communities would travel to Blackpool together, first by charabanc and later by train. Blackpool still catered to a "significant middle-class market during the spring and autumn", favouring the residential area of North Shore.

Blackpool's growth since the 1870s was shaped by its pioneering use of electrical power. Electric lighting came to the town in 1879, as it became the world's first municipality with electric street lighting along Blackpool Promenade, setting the stage for the Blackpool Illuminations. 100,000 people congregated to see the promenade illuminated on the evening of 19 September 1879.

Work started in Blackpool on the UK's first electric public tramway on 24 February 1884 and the Blackpool Tramway opened officially on 29 September 1885. It established one of the world's earliest electric tramways, initially operated by the Blackpool Electric Tramway Company. By 1899, the tramway had expanded and the conduit system was replaced by overhead wires. As of 2025, the system still remains in service. In 1897, Blackpool became one of the first towns to mark important civic events with illuminated tram-cars when five Corporation trams were decorated with coloured lights to mark the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

By the 1890s, Blackpool had a population of 35,000 and could host 250,000 holidaymakers. Notable structures, like the Grand Theatre (1894) and Blackpool Tower, emerged. The Grand Theatre was among Britain's first all-electric theatres. The Victorian and Edwardian period saw a significant construction of hotels and other accommodation, including the Grand Metropole Hotel (1873 but incorporating an earlier hotel that had opened in 1785), the Imperial Hotel (1867) and the Norbreck Castle Hotel (1912). These hotels remain extant.

In 1897, Blackpool Corporation prohibited "phrenologists, 'quack' doctors, palmists, mock auctions and cheap jacks" from hawking on Blackpool sands. The outliers moved onto Central Promenade, where they erected stalls in front gardens. The stretch became known as the Golden Mile and sideshows became one of its key features until the 1960s.

In 1911, the town's Central station was the busiest in the world; in July 1936, 650 trains came and went in a single day. In May 1912, Princess Louise officially opened a new section of North Promenade – Princess Parade; lights were erected to mark the occasion. The First World War called a temporary halt to the display in 1914 but, by 1925, the lights were back with giant animated tableaux being added and extending the Blackpool Illuminations to almost six miles from Squires Gate to Red Bank Road.

The inter-war period saw Blackpool develop and mature as a holiday destination. By 1920, Blackpool had around eight million visitors per year, still drawn largely from the mill towns of East Lancashire and the West Riding of Yorkshire. Blackpool's population boom was complete by 1951, by which time some 147,000 people were living in the town; this compared with 47,000 in 1901 and 14,000 in 1881. In the 1920s and 1930s, Blackpool was Britain's most popular resort, which JB Priestley referred to as "the great, roaring, spangled beast." It provided visitors with entertainment and accommodation on an industrial scale. At its height, it hosted more than 10 million visitors a year and its entertainment venues could seat more than 60,000 people. In 1939, the illuminations were again suspended for the Second World War, not resuming until 1948.

Blackpool remained a popular resort through much of the 20th century and, in contrast to most resorts, increased in size during the Second World War; it remained open while others closed and with many civil servants and military personnel sent to live and work there. The town continued to attract more visitors in the decade after the war, reaching a peak of 17 million per year.

By the 1960s, the UK tourism industry was undergoing radical changes. The increasing popularity of package holidays took many of Blackpool's traditional visitors abroad. The construction of the M55 motorway in 1975 made Blackpool more feasible as a day trip rather than an overnight stay. The modern economy, however, remains relatively undiversified and firmly rooted in the tourism sector.

Many seaside resorts fell from grace during the latter half of the 20th century as mobility, wealth, visitor aspirations and competition were in a state of flux, but Blackpool managed to retain its popular/working-class appeal as the "Las Vegas of the North".

Despite economic restructuring, increased competition and other challenges, Blackpool continues as a seaside visitor destination. Tourism in the town supports 25,000 full-time equivalent jobs – one in five of the workforce. In 2023, the town was named the nation's best-value holiday destination. In 2021 18.8 million visitors contributed £1.5 billion to the local economy, making Blackpool the nation's biggest seaside resort. In 2022, the resort attracted a further 1.5 million visitors – a total figure of 20.33 million - contributing £1.7bn to the local economy and supporting more than 22,000 jobs.

As can be seen from the history above, Blackpool's rise is inexorably linked to the increased popularity of the seaside as a tourist destination, and the associated increasing ease of reaching such a place by car or public transport. As with other seaside towns, some of which have featured in these pages over the past few months, it would be interesting to see how much the town and its pubs were intertwined with its history and what traces of this history still remain in its various drinking houses. Firstly though, we had a journey ahead of us. Given its location, and the failings of the British rail system, Blackpool is a logistical nightmare to get to, at least from where we live. Thankfully, we'd decided way ahead of time that the easiest way to get there was to drive. So, off we went, on a warm and pleasant Friday morning. We picked Aiden up on the way and, before too long, we were heading to the north-west. The drive took around 3 hours and ended up being relatively straightforward, barring some small pockets of congestion. Our journey into the town took us along the central promenade, beneath the iconic tower and along the coast. We would be staying in the northern part of the town, not far from the North Shore and its associated pier. Our accommodation was located in the LGBTQ friendly part of the town, which itself inhabits an area on the very edge of the town centre. The Pleasure Beach, with its famous attractions, is further south, almost an hour's walk from our location. We arrived in Blackpool around 12.45, parked up in a pay and display car park just around the corner from our hotel, climbed out of the car, and took a moment to stretch and breathe. We'd made it! We couldn't check in until 3pm, which gave us a bit of time to get our bearings. We located out hotel, literally a few seconds walk away, and then it was time for something we were all in desperate need of: a well-earned pint. Conveniently, my research had yielded the identity and location of a pub a literal stone's throw from our hotel. Both are located on Dickson Road and this seemed as good a place as any to begin to get an idea of what Blackpool's pub scene would potentially have to offer. Our first stop would be The Duke. 

 

Formerly known as The Duke of York, until it changed its name for reasons that are probably obvious, The Duke is a large, street corner pub that is now operated by Thwaites. Inside, the layout is an approximate square, with a large bar towards the rear of the main space. An open plan area in front of this divides the bar from the seating areas. High stools and tables sit opposite the main bar space. The bar flooring is bare wood. A raised, carpeted area of seating sits between the bar and the door. There are further seating areas at either side of the bar, all consisting of scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. A lower area to one side houses a pool table and the toilets, along with banquette seating and small wall-mounted tables. The pub is light and airy, with decor limited to old photos of the area and technical diagrams of various machines. The sight of a bar was a welcome one after the drive and we immediately perused our options. Given the pub's ownership, it was no surprise to see a bank of 3 handpulls on the bar. However, the only option available from this trio was Weston's Rosie's Pig Rhubarb cider. Reassuringly though, the remaining handpumps were being prepared for use later in the day so I can confirm that The Duke does, in fact, sell real ale. For the time being though, I went for something different. Amy and I opted for a pint each of Paradise No. 3, a keg hazy pale from Thwaites's expanding craft beer range, which we have encountered before, most notably in Sheffield. For his part, Aiden went for a bottle of Peroni. Our round totalled £15 on the nose, which wasn't unreasonable given our choices and location. We took our drinks to a high table just off from the bar and decompressed from the journey. The pints went down smoothly and were very refreshing. They were definitely needed after more than 3 hours in a hot car. The Duke is a pleasant pub. We were made to feel welcome and we'd already received a glimpse into Blackpool's hospitality. The pub also opens at 9am every day for breakfast, which would serve us well over the next couple of days. For now though, with our drinks finished, we departed. 

We still had some time before we could check in, so we took the opportunity to have a bit of an explore of the local area and the town centre, and we also picked up some lunch in meal deal form. Having gotten a rough idea of our location in relation to some areas we wanted to be later on, we made our way over to the hotel, where we were finally able to check in. We essentially wanted some time to unpack and refresh before heading out again. Our brief sojourn around the locality had confirmed the location of some pubs that I'd included on the itinerary. Following a short period of recuperation, Amy and I headed back out. Aiden would catch up with us in due course. Heading out of our hotel on Dickson Road, we turned right, heading in the direction of the town centre. A few yards down the road, we reached a junction and continued on, where Dickson Road becomes Topping Street. Here, on the left hand side, was the next pub on the list and one I wanted to make sure that we got the chance to visit. Time now for the Cask and Tap.

Located at 82 Topping Street, this micropub opened on September 25th 2020, since which it has built a fearsome reputation for its beer. Featuring in the Good Beer Guide 2026, Cask and Tap is the title holder of CAMRA Branch Pub of the Year for 2025 and runner-up for Cider Pub of the Year. The green-painted facade leads through into a single, long room. The L-shaped bar counter is in the far left corner. Tables and chairs occupy much of the central floorplan and there are drinking ledges around the edges of the room. The floor is bare wood and the walls and ceilings are ornate copper embossed. Quirky lighting is made from recycled transistor radios and even an old fire extinguisher. The toilets are located to the rear, adjacent to the bar. Speaking of the bar, it's certainly well-stocked with goodies. Alongside a rotating keg beer selection, and at least half a dozen traditional ciders, you will find 6 handpulls. On the day, 5 of these were in use, with an interesting choice of options. They were certainly a sight for sore eyes and I was very much looking forward to getting stuck in. The choices were Triple Point Mild, Little The Panther, Bristol Beer Factory Volume II, Coley's Charmed by Harlequin and Ashover Three Horseshoes. The presence of a couple of East Midlands options surprised me and it took me a little bit of time to choose before I settled on the Charmed by Harlequin (4.1%) from Manchester-based Coley's. Amy selected Kicks, by Beak Brewery, from amongst the keg range. A pint of both came to £12.70. We made our way to a table by the window, at which point I noticed that my pint had been served in a Castle Rock pint glass. Try as I might, it seems that I can't escape my employers. The timing of our arrival had been fortuitous as we'd managed to secure a table just before a large group from the local Masonic Lodge arrived. We never did find out what the occasion was. Cask and Tap is a cracking little pub. It's completely clear as to why it's so highly regarded. It's a comfortable place for a pint and the decor is something quite different. It's very quirky and adds to the unique charm of the place. I was thoroughly impressed and glad we'd found the time to get here. The beer lived up to the reputation too. Charmed by Harlequin is a pale ale that focuses on the eponymous hop, which brings notes of pineapple, apricot and peach, with a crisp, refreshing bitterness. It went down an absolute treat! Just as our pints were approaching the dregs, Aiden appeared, which meant that we were duty bound to stay for another pint. On this occasion, I switched things up and went for the Volume II from Bristol Beer Factory. This turned out to be a 4.1% IPA, brewed with Australian Ella and US Cashmere hops, resulting in a floral, tropical base and big hop flavours of lemon, lime and melon. It was also in superb condition, confirming that Cask and Tap 100% know how to keep their beer in tip-top shape. 

A happy buzz was settling in as we decided to move on. Now that I'd discovered decent cask ale in Blackpool, I was eager for more of the same. Handily for me, I knew of another place a short distance away that I was confident would deliver exactly what I was seeking. Leaving Cask and Tap, we turned left and continued down Topping Street. Upon reaching the end, we turned left again, this time onto Church Street. A few yards further on, we crossed the road at a pedestrian crossing, quickening our pace so as to avoid a woman who was going absolutely ballistic at her partner down the phone, in full earshot of her young child. Our next destination would be our salvation. Directly across the road, located on a corner, is Rhythm & Brew Room.

What was once the Stanley Arms Hotel reopened in its present form on December 15th 2017. In its previous life, it is notable for being the place where Blackpool FC was founded in July 1887. Nowadays, it is a Good Beer Guide 2026 listed venue and a renowned beer mecca, something that we would be putting to the test! The front door leads through into a long bar area, with bare wood floors and white plaster ceilings. A wooden bar runs down one side of the room. Seating is in the form of high tables and chairs, located opposite the bar but also throughout. Several smaller rooms have been formed through the use of dividing walls and pillars. To the right of the entrance, is a raised area with more seating, primarily of the traditional wooden variety alongside low, upholstered stools. This area also features a wooden and part glass partition that divides it from the rest of the space. Original beams can be found throughout. TVs and fruit machines are amongst the electronic additions. The decoration is an absolute shrine to beer memorabilia, featuring pump clips, posters, flags, branded tankards, and slogans. Hop flowers hang down in various areas. Amongst the beery artefacts, there are interesting touches. An old lamppost lamp has been repurposed as interior lighting and much use has been made of the available space to add a sense of originality. The toilets are located towards the rear. If the beer homages themselves weren't enough, the pub also has a brewery, Pool Brewing, based at the rear. Several of their products feature on the bar, which in itself features 6 handpulls and a strong keg selection. This is a literal Aladdin's cave of boozy wonderment. 5 of the 6 handpulls were in use on the day of our visit featuring 3 beers from Pool Brewing, in the shape of Can't Deny It, Loose Change and Paid in Full but there were also a couple of guests, namely Mobberley IPA and Vocation Chop & Change. I was familiar with Pool beers, having tried one in Derby earlier this year so it made sense to try their products again, this time direct from the source. I went for a pint of Paid in Full, Amy chose Vocation's Crush Hour from the keg selection and Aiden contented himself with the peach version of Jubel. The round totalled £16.60. We chose to sit in the raised section, where it was a bit quieter, and took in our surroundings. Everything about this place is wonderful. From the aesthetic, to the atmosphere and from the service to the soundtrack, we were absolutely blown away by it. Rhythm & Brew Room would fit in perfectly in any of the main beer cities but there's just something about it that makes it fit perfectly, here in Blackpool. The beer is top notch too. Paid in Full (4.1%) is billed as a golden ale. It boasts a pine finish and a decent Citra hop aroma. It's simple but effective. Easy drinking, delicious and definitely worth seeking out! It came in a brewery branded glass too, which was cool. This is a great brewery and I can't recommend their beers enough. More than that, I cannot recommend this place enough! It's a true gem and a standout in the area. It's well worth a visit, whether you're a fan of beer, pubs or even football history. We all certainly agreed that it had been worth stopping off for!

It was sorely, achingly tempting to stay for another beer at Rhythm & Brew Room. However, we had plans to have a fairly late evening so instead we decided to move on. Aiden headed back to the hotel to get ready. I wanted to stop off at one more place, before we went back and did the same. Said location is virtually opposite Rhythm & Brew Room, and is located on South King Street. Amy and I ventured over the road to Frenchman's Cove.

The building that houses Frenchman's Cove dates back to the Victorian era and was formerly a tobacco warehouse belonging to Duckworth's. In the 1990s, the building was converted into a bar and restaurant. Beyond the pirate-themed exterior, the interior still retains hints of its past usage with the deep cellars from the original structure still remaining. The layout is a single, square room, with the bar to one side. Exposed beams and brickwork are visible throughout. The furniture is basic and contemporary. A small stage area is directly adjacent to the door. The toilets are downstairs, accessed through a door to one side. The eccentric theming outside is not reflected internally, with most of the decor themed around football, primarily Liverpool FC. The beer selection here is keg only so I opted for a Guinness. Amy went for a Diet Coke and we parted with the total of £6.40. We grabbed a table next to the door and perused our environment. Whilst, at first glance, Frenchman's Cove seems fairly generic, you do get the sense of the history lurking underneath. That's not the only hint of the past that has left an imprint though. The pub has a reputation for ghostly happenings. The most notable occurrences have taken place in the cellar, where workmen and staff have reported shadowy figures and the sensation of being watched. The ghost of a woman called Laura Schoons is believed to be responsible for some of these happenings, though it is unclear what her connection to the building is, although she may once have worked here. More chillingly, doors open and close of their own accord, the pub speakers are known to turn themselves on after having been turned off for the night and, perhaps scariest of all, the voices of a woman and child have been heard coming through the pub sound system. Luckily, we didn't hear anything untoward during our visit but the journey downstairs to the toilets certainly had a weird vibe. In short, Frenchman's Cove is an atmospheric place to visit for its history and stories but there's not much for the seasoned beer aficionado. The Guinness is decent enough though.

After our brief stop at Frenchman's Cove, it was back to the hotel to prepare for the evening. On the way, we stopped at a local chippy for cheesy chips which came in, frankly, bafflingly large portions. It was much needed though and we enjoyed it back at the hotel. What followed was an evening of embracing the delights of Blackpool's nightlife, beginning in the hotel bar before heading to a couple of nearby venues to fully immerse ourselves. The experience included drag artists, DJs, cabaret, singing, dancing and karaoke, which included the best/weirdest version of Michael Jackson's Bad that any of us had ever witnessed, performed by a short, white, bespectacled, ginger lad. A surreal experience indeed, and we finally returned to our rooms at 2.30am after an unexpectedly late one. After a few hours sleep, our only full day in Blackpool dawned. We awoke, feeling tired but otherwise OK. Knowing we wouldn't see Aiden for a few hours, we set about getting ourselves ready for the day. A fortifying breakfast at The Duke, whose portions are almost comically huge, blew away any lingering cobwebs from the night before. We decided to take a stroll along the seafront. The day was warm, the sun was out and, you know, we were by the seaside, all of which are good reasons for a walk. We ventured along the Golden Mile, past the tower, and did a lap of Central Pier, looking out over the Irish Sea with wind turbines shimmering in the morning haze over in the distance. Having suitably recovered, we retraced our steps back along the seafront whilst we debated our plans for the rest of the day. We reasoned that we could stop for a pint, head back to the hotel to chill for a bit, and then head back out and tick off a few more pubs before the evening activities got going again. There was a pub nearby that  I wanted to visit and it was already open so there was no time like the present. Situated on West Street, just off of The Promenade, you will find The Mitre. 

Standing on the site of Dobson's Row, which dates from the 18th century, the earliest records of this building date from 1863 when it was used as a grocers and confectioners by John Crabtree. It changed hands numerous times in the ensuing years and first became fully licensed in 1898, when it was known as Ye Old Glue Pot. It took on the moniker of the Mitre Inn in 1902 and still operates under virtually the same name. It has the distinction of being the smallest pub in Blackpool. Inside, the bar is opposite the door, with areas of seating either side. The bar area is floored in bare wood with carpeted areas throughout. A snug-like area, towards the rear, features banquette seating around the perimeter alongside traditional wooden furniture. TVs are mounted in each area, with photos and paintings of old Blackpool on display. The toilets are located in a corridor off to one side. The bar boasts a pair of handpulls which, on the day, were offering Wainwright and Black Sheep Best Bitter. I opted for a pint of Wainwright whilst Amy began her day on Diet Coke. Our round came to £8.80. We made our way around into the snug area. The pub was fairly quiet, even on a Saturday, with a smattering of regulars keeping themselves to themselves. By far, The Mitre is the closest example of what I would call a 'traditional' pub that we'd found so far. It's welcoming enough, even given its small size. It reminded me in part of The Elsinore in Whitby, another small, traditional boozer with a loyal following. The Wainwright at The Mitre was passable enough and it's a comfortable spot to while away some time, away from the hustle and bustle of the seafront. 

Drinks supped, we took a slow wander back to the hotel. Following some chill time, and a nap, we felt ready and recharged to go again. Having been assured by Aiden that he'd be meeting us later on, we took the opportunity to tick off some more pubs that I'd earmarked in the vicinity of our digs. The first of these was something altogether different from our earlier stop. Heading right out of the hotel, we headed down Dickson Road and then took a left onto Talbot Road. Another right, this time at a traffic island, took us onto Cookson Street. We were now in the vicinity of Blackpool North station. Located on Bickerstaffe Square, a short distance from the station itself, you will find Raleside Brewhouse. 

This modern looking building is partly owned by Lancaster University. Passing through the slightly imposing entrance will bring you into a two-level modern bar, which opened in October 2024 as a sister venue to a bar in Cleveleys. The ground floor is all booth seating and wooden counter tops, with an aesthetic that fully leans into the railway theming. An old signal light sits in the middle of the room. One of the walls has been painted to resemble a tunnel entrance. Old railway lanterns and signage can be seen throughout the room. There are even screens displaying live train times for the anxious ones amongst us. The town of Blackpool is represented in the decor too, with murals on the windows of local landmarks. The overall image is industrial-chic with lots of glass and high, metal ceilings. The first floor mezzanine area acts as a de facto sports bar, with virtual darts available for hire, and furniture made from repurposed beer kegs. The bar sits at the rear of the room and is well stocked, with a good keg selection and a bank of 4 handpulls, 3 of which were in use. The trio of choices here were Timothy Taylor Landlord, Boddingtons Cask and Farmyard Sheaf. I went for the latter, whilst Amy chose a pint of Bear Devil by Tiny Rebel from amongst the keg range. In total we paid £9.70. Once again, our timing had been impeccable. We arrived here just before 3pm to be told that the venue was closing for a private party at 3.30. Luckily for us, that gave us plenty of time to get a drink down us. The staff were welcoming and pleasant throughout and at no point made us feel like we were being rushed, so kudos to them for that. I was glad we'd made it to this place in time. It's very different to anything else we'd seen so far and another great example of a station pub. The beer was great too. Sheaf (4.1%) is a pale ale brewed by Lancaster's Farmyard Brewery. It's brewed with Citra and Mosaic hops, which gives tropical notes, a well balanced bitterness and a citrusy finish. It's also gluten free and vegan friendly, if that's something that floats your boat. It's a delicious beer though, very drinkable and smooth. 

With the modern trappings of Raleside behind us, we were heading back towards the traditional side of things now. Continuing on down Cookson Street, we took a right onto Deansgate, which we followed until we reached the junction with Topping Street. Our next stop was just nearby, at The Washington. 

Dating from 1875, The Washington is a relatively large Greene King pub located on a street corner. The entrance leads through into a large bar area. Large bay windows to the front ensure lots of natural light gets in. The bar is large and runs the length of one wall. Seating is located throughout with more open-plan areas in between to create more space. The furniture is mostly wood and the flooring is a mix of bare wood and carpet. A feature wall at one end features local photos. The high ceilings and subtle lighting create a comfortable ambience. Large TV screens feature throughout the pub, and the internal layout resembles several smaller areas with dividing features in between. Despite being a Greene King pub, this is another one that carries on a recent theme of only featuring guest cask beers instead of the usual Greene King staples. There are 9 handpulls here but, on the day, just 4 were being utilised, although the selection was interesting and unexpected: Acorn Piano Man, Kirkby Lonsdale Stanley's Pale, Fuzzy Duck Dapper Duck and Rock the Boat Yellow Submarine. Despite the obvious draw of the musically-themed options, I instead went for Dapper Duck from Fuzzy Duck in nearby Poulton-le-Fylde, with Amy opting for a Madri, at a total cost of £10.65. We made our way to a high table near the bar where we could easily observe the first leg of the League One Playoff semi-final between Stevenage and Stockport. It's always nice when 'chain' pubs serve up a surprise in their beer choice. As much as Greene King beers are fine, and usually well kept, in their own pubs at least, it's nice when their pubs are allowed to branch out and support smaller, more local breweries. Fuzzy Duck are a case in point. Dapper Duck (4.1%) is an amber session ale with Olicana and Harlequin hops, which provide passionfruit, peach and floral notes. It's a good beer and has an interesting flavour profile. I don't think I've had Olicana hops that many times, at least not to my knowledge, so it was nice to see them featuring here. 

The Washington had taken me by surprise with the range and quality of its beers and, to be fair, the pub in general was nice enough. I was keen to see what our next stop would bring to the table. A short distance further down Topping Street, we would find our next location, Churchills. 

The pub that is now Churchills was formerly the Criterion Hotel, whose name can be still be seen in the pavement brickwork to the front of the present building. It was renamed after the wartime Prime Minister, who visited Blackpool several times and whose father once gave a speech in the town. Recently refurbished, the pub has retained much of its traditional interior. A curved bar greets you upon entry, with seating wrapping around towards the rear. Seating is of the scrubbed wood variety. A lower level to the rear features more of the same and also houses the ladies toilets. The gents is on the main level, at the end of the bar. A raised stage area in one corner is predominantly used for live entertainment and karaoke. The decoration incorporates old photos, articles and image of Blackpool. The wooden bar and exposed beams hint at the pub's age. We entered Churchills to find karaoke in full swing and we also managed to lower the average age of the patrons by about 20 years. The bar staff may well have been the only people in attendance to be our age or under. Still, we were not to be perturbed. The bar features 4 handpulls, and half of these were being used, with a choice between Timothy Taylor Golden Best and Hobgoblin Gold. I opted for the latter, with Amy going for Moretti, at a total cost of £9.40 for both. We managed to procure the remaining table in the top section and enjoyed/endured (delete as applicable) the karaoke from the, admittedly committed, regulars. There's a time and a place for Part of  Your World though and it's not on a Saturday afternoon in Blackpool. Still, at least people were enjoying themselves. We certainly were. Churchills keeps a decent drop of Hobgoblin Gold and it went down very well. Before long, Aiden emerged to join us and we had another round here. It's easy to see why Churchills is so popular. It combines traditional charm with slightly more modern trappings. With our drinks finished, we left with a number of thoughts, chief amongst which was why do people think they have to yell to do karaoke? The microphone literally makes your voice louder. 

Now that Aiden had joined us, we went for another wander, this time heading straight down Topping Street and turning right onto Church Street. We followed this on and then followed the road around to the right. We had now arrived back in the main shopping district, somewhere we had explored the day before and then briefly again that morning. We were on Birley Street when somewhere caught our eye that hadn't been on the original route plan. With our curiosity piqued, we decided to investigate Shickers Tavern. 

This is the sister venue to a micropub of the same name in the South Beach area of the town. This incarnation opened in January 2024. Inside, expect a one-room micropub vibe that also caters for fans of alternative music. The bar is over in one corner, with a corridor to one side leading to the toilet. The layout is largely open-plan, with seating along both sides of the central area, and a couple of high tables in the middle. There is also some seating in the pedestrianised area to the front of the pub. A space inside, at the front, is reserved for live bands, who feature regularly. The overall decor is minimalist but there are neon signs and artworks of music legends, all accompanied by a rock soundtrack. The room is fairly dark, which adds to the atmosphere. This is very much in what approaches the alternative area of this part of Blackpool. There is a comic book store next door, and a rock themed cafe a couple of doors up. I expected good things from this place, especially with the words CASK ALE hanging above the door. They do indeed have a couple of handpumps but there weren't being used on the day. Luckily, they have craft beer so I settled for a pint of Clwb Tropica, Amy went for San Miguel and Aiden for cider, with our round totalling £15.50. We grabbed a table by the door. Despite the lack of my preferred beverage, I thought this place was great. It clearly gets quite busy when bands are playing and it was really cool to see a venue like this catering to the alternative crowd in a town that isn't known for such. Hopefully it will continue to thrive and provide an outlet and a safe haven. 

We left Shickers with our evening plans set. Following another meal deal stop, we headed back to the hotel, where we repeated the previous evening's antics, although without so late a finish and much less alcohol for me as I had to drive the following day. Sunday dawned bright and warm. Another breakfast at The Duke would see us on our way. Then we had the prospect of the 3 hour return journey. Still, this meant that there was much time for reflection. Blackpool had been an experience. As a first time visitor, I feel uniquely qualified to make that statement. Much of the stereotypes I'd heard about the place definitely seem to ring true. The nightlife is second to none and that seems to be the draw for the majority of people that visit as tourists. If your idea of fun is pints of lager, drag bingo and cabaret until 6am, Blackpool has exactly what you need. To be clear, there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of that. I love cabaret and drag acts as much as anyone. But, for those for whom the novelty of such things wears off quickly or where it isn't quite your vibe, fear not. There are still pockets of calm and solace to be had, away from the chaos, where welcoming pints quench parched lips in quiet corners. Tradition and modernity often clash but it's here, in places like Blackpool, where the two things come together, that surprising things can be found. Rest assured, Blackpool has something you like and the venues in this column are a mere snapshot. From my own research, I know that there are many more pubs across the town where good beer is to the forefront, though time and logistics meant that we couldn't get to them this time. The story of Blackpool then mirrors that of other seaside towns, where tourists come to forget their daily lives in swathes of black sambuca and questionable decisions, but where the locals, those who call this place home, and those who prefer the calmer way of things can find themselves equally welcome. If you find yourself in Blackpool, by choice or otherwise, take yourself off the beaten track. What you find might surprise you. Just don't yell on the karaoke. 

Pub of the Trip: Rhythm & Brew Room. An absolute beer haven with a fantastic aesthetic.

Honourable mention: Cask and Tap. A cracking micropub with excellent beer.

Beer of the Trip: Pool Brewing, Paid in Full. Bloody delicious

Biggest surprise: Raleside Brewhouse. Fantastic theming. Perfect place for a pre or post-train pint.