Intentionally or not, this year so far has seen quite a lot of revisits carried out, both locally and considerably further afield. This most recent trip carried on that trend and carried with it an extra dose of significance. Amy and I recently celebrated our 8th wedding anniversary, part of the festivities for which we decided to dedicate to a day trip to a location that we last visited almost 7 years ago and which was in dire need of a re-evaluation. The perks of such return trips is that it allows for a comparative analysis of an area's pubs and drinking scene, to see whether things are better, worse, or much the same as they were before. An additional advantage is the opportunity to visit new pubs, either because they didn't exist last time or, more often than not, fell victim to time and logistics. Particularly with regards to larger locations, this second reason is often the primary one. The object of our attentions was the fair city of Lincoln, often wrongly overlooked by some, a place that we both wanted to visit again. Our itinerary would vary markedly from our last visit in 2019 and feature a large number of pubs that we'd never been to before, but would also feature a small number of repeat offenders. Our aim was simple: have another explore of this great city, take in the sights and surroundings, uncover any secrets, explore some great pubs and, in general, celebrate our anniversary by having a bloody good time.
Getting to Lincoln is very straightforward and we'd once again chosen the option of train. The day of our visit was a Tuesday and we arrived in the city just before 11.45, having left Nottingham at 10.50. The day was warm, with intermittent sunshine, and thankfully not as hot as it had been over previous days and weeks though, as I type, the UK is experiencing the end of its 4th summer heatwave. Send help. On this occasion, our planned route would take us to the east end of the city, before taking us north into the historic areas and then back down, past the station, before looping back in time for the journey home. We were excited to be back in a city that we didn't fully explore last time and we were eager to get going. Leaving the station, we turned right and continued along St. Mary's Street and then Oxford Street. Passing under a nearby flyover, we turned left and followed the curve of the road. This becomes Pelham Street and then merges with Melville Street which carries the road over the River Witham. Shortly after crossing the river, we took an immediate right onto Waterside North, which runs adjacent to a section of the river. Following this road for a few minutes brought us to the junction with Baggholme Road, whereupon we turned left. Our first pub of the day can be found further up this road, on the junction with Winn Street. Our first stop on our return to Lincoln, would be at The Birdcage.
This Good Beer Guide 2026 listed pub was formerly known as The Crown before a period of closure. A local couple bought the closed pub in 2015 and subsequently refurbished and reopened it, giving it its new name and a new lease of life. We arrived just as the doors opened for the day, and stepped inside. The interior is focused around a curved central bar. The floors are bare wood, with white boarded ceilings and furniture that is a mix of traditional wooden tables and chairs, alongside some leather sofas. Two rooms have been knocked through into a larger space. To the left of the door, an area with an open fire and TV can be found. The larger space to the right is open and bright. Decor throughout both sections features hanging birdcages in reference to the pub's name, alongside music themed items including instruments hung on the walls, framed memorabilia and posters, and song lyrics written on the lower part of the ceiling. A door to one side leads through to the toilets and further on to a well-appointed beer garden with picnic benches and a covered smoking area. Given the pub's GBG listed status and overall reputation, I was looking forward to getting stuck into the beer. Imagine my disappointment then when it became clear that no real ale was available. The three hand pumps on the bar stood bare. The explanation given, such as it was, was that the pub has been struggling to shift real ale recently (a not uncommon issue across the industry) and, as such, had reduced their offering to one cask a week. This meant that, once that cask has run out, that they're forced to wait for a delivery to replenish their offering. On paper, this excuse is understandable but, given that the Birdcage prides itself on stocking Timothy Taylor Landlord, and given that beer's notorious conditioning time, you can't help but wonder how often real ale is currently available. However, we were here now so alternatives would have to do. I opted for a half of John Smith's, with Amy choosing a half of Aspall, a combination that set us back £4.50. We chose to consume our purchases at a table adjacent to the bar. Whilst the keg offerings were acceptable enough, our exploration had gotten off to an inauspicious start.
Despite feeling disappointed with our time at The Birdcage, I was hopeful that this was an aberration and that better things were on the horizon. We wouldn't have long to wait to find out if that was the case. Leaving the Birdcage, we turned left onto Winn Street, negotiated some roadworks and then took the next left onto John Street. There, on the right hand side, further up the street, we would find stop number two: the Dog & Bone.
The first of a few venues of the day operated by Batemans Brewery, the Dog & Bone is the most easterly pub in the downhill area of Lincoln. Located amongst a row of Victorian terraced houses, the pub dates from 1867 when it was known as the Gay Dog. By 1894, the name had changed to the Spa Tavern. The pub was on the verge of closure a few years ago before being rescued and reopened in its current guise. The current tenants took the helm in late 2022 and the pub has gone from strength to strength in the meantime. A single entrance leads through into a two roomed layout, with a lounge area to the right and a larger bar area to the left. The lounge features banquette seating, soft furnishings and a library area with a large number of books that can be borrowed and swapped by customers. The bar area is slightly more sparsely decorated, with bare wood floors, a brick servery, settles, wooden furniture and high stools. Slogans, mirrors, and portraits of the local area can be found on the walls. To the rear, a door leads to a stone paved garden with a small water feature, partly covered areas, picnic tables and parasols. An area of the garden features a motorbike in front of a wall displaying yet more slogans, adjacent to a small function room known as the Kennel. Dog theming is prominent throughout. I had high hopes of this place upon seeing the bar. 6 handpulls take pride of place, unsurprisingly featuring Batemans options, but guest beers can be found here too. The options were Batemans England Expects, Salem IPHaze, Salem Midsummer Cream, Batemans Dark M and Batemans XB, with the final handpull offering Lilley's Rhubarb cider. After a very warm welcome and some very enjoyable banter, we selected our drinks. I opted for a half of IPHaze, with Amy selecting a half of Inch's cider. All told, our round came to £5.30. We decided to explore the garden and took a seat on a round table in a slightly raised area in the centre. We were really impressed with this place. It came as a pleasant surprise, even before we'd stepped outside. This is a really welcoming, friendly place, in an unassuming location, with interesting and quirky decor. The beer is in good nick too. I wasn't familiar with Salem Brew Co., based in Wainfleet, but their IPHaze is excellent. At 4.2%, this is a naturally hazy pale ale with zesty, citrus aromas and delicate malt notes. Overall, it's crisp, moreish and refreshing. Quite a pleasant find in an unexpected place! The Dog & Bone genuinely surprised us. It strikes as a pub that flies under the radar. No bells and whistles, just a proper pub welcome and a great place to spend some time. It's good to see somewhere like this continuing to thrive in what are very turbulent market conditions. I can recommend it to anyone in need of a place to slake their thirst.
Inevitably, when in Lincoln, you will find yourself having to go uphill, in itself an arduous task in a notoriously steep city. When this happens to you, it's best to find yourself going uphill as early in the day as possible. Now would be our time, as our next stop required an ascent. Leaving the Dog & Bone, we turned right and continued to the end of John Street and then crossed over the road. Ahead of us, lay Arboretum Avenue and a significant incline. We attacked this as slowly and steadily as we could, and were then confronted by a flight of steps that run adjacent to the arboretum and lead to Lindum Terrace. Upon scaling these, the road did level out and we were back to flat ground. Turning left, we then took the next right onto Upper Lindum Street, which leads to Wragby Road. Here we turned right and then took the next left, Winnowsty Lane. This led us in a curve, upon the completion of which, we had reached Greetwell Gate, where the next part of our expedition would begin in earnest. On our right, a few yards away, we located the Morning Star.
The second Good Beer Guide 2026 listed pub of the day, the Morning Star dates back to 1791, when it was known as the Fighting Cocks. In 1841 the name was changed to its current moniker, believed to be due to the abolition of cock fighting the previous year. Now owned and operated by Stonegate, it has built up a steady reputation as one of the city's premier real ale pubs. Located a short distance from the cathedral and castle area, it benefits from this quirk of geography with fine views from the rear garden. Inside, terracotta tiling on the floor leads to a wood-fronted servery, which runs opposite the entrance, creating a kind of passageway between two areas. The right hand room is smaller, whilst the larger space wraps around the bar. Both front areas feature settles and wooden furniture. Behind the bar are a couple of small rooms, similarly decorated. Beyond this, you will find access to the aforementioned garden. Large, and partly covered, it features picnic benches, flowers, standing heaters for cold weather, converted barrel planters and views to the cathedral beyond. The bar choice is no less spectacular, with 6 handpulls on show for the discerning drinker. These were offering a variety of options on the day, namely Sharp's Doom Bar, Fuller's London Pride, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker, St. Austell Tribute, Ossett White Rat and Blue Monkey BG Sips. It was to be a half of the latter for me and a half of Aspall for Amy, totalling £5.90. We decided to explore the garden again here and took our drinks to a covered bench off to one side of the main garden. The Morning Star is a lovely pub. It comes across as a more upmarket locals pub but without the hefty prices to match. Not only were our drinks reasonable but they were also delicious. The BG Sips was very well kept indeed. We whiled away some time here, admiring our view of the garden and the architectural behemoth of the cathedral just beyond, which we would soon see in greater detail. The advantage of a Tuesday pub trip is that pubs tend to be quieter and this was certainly the case here. Our time at the Morning Star was a peaceful and tranquil one.
With 3 pubs under our belts, we had plenty more to come. Our next stop was to be a bonafide Lincoln insitution. Leaving the Morning Star, we turned left and continued down Greetwell Gate. This soon becomes Eastgate and spent a short time marvelling at the sheer size and scale of Lincoln Cathedral which, cathedral fact fans, was, at the time of its completion in 1311, the tallest cathedral in the world. It was also allegedly the world's tallest building for a short period after a much later rebuild, although this fact is disputed. It remains the fourth largest UK cathedral by floor area. Continuing past the cathedral took us to the end of Eastgate, where we took a right onto Bailgate. After a quick stop for sustenance, we continued down Westgate where, at the very end, we made our way to The Strugglers Inn.
The first pub of the day to have featured on our previous visit, The Strugglers, or 'The Strugs' to give it its local nickname, has become something of a legendary venue in these parts. Good Beer Guide 2026 listed, it has been the recipient of multiple CAMRA awards including local Pub of the Year in both 2023 and 2025. The reasons for this will soon become apparent to anyone not already in the know. Dating back to 1841, the building started life as The Struggler beer shop. The name references the unfortunates who were hanged at the nearby castle and their 'struggles' to escape from their captors, also reflected on the pub's sign. The pub was a popular gathering place for locals to come to watch the events back in the days of public hangings, and condemned criminals were often given their final drink at the pub before they met their end. One former landlord is alleged to have been notorious hangman Albert Pierrepoint. The pub's current reputation for beer is immediately apparent upon entering. Two small rooms make up virtually the entirety of the internal floor space. The main bar room features low tables around the perimeter, with the bar itself front and centre. A small, cosy snug, with a carpeted floor is through a small doorway. The bar area is wood boarded on the floor and traditional beams and other features remain in situ. Not that you can see them. Virtually every inch of the walls and ceilings in both areas are completely covered in pump clips, a testament to the sheer volume of beer sold on the premises throughout the years. The pub embraces its history too. Various artefacts on the walls include articles about the pub, old deeds, list of landlords, and other historical items. The whole feel is comfortable and almost like stepping back in time. A doorway at the far end leads to the toilets, which themselves take up a surprising amount of space in such a small building, and stairs that lead down to a sunken garden. This garden features barrel tables, wooden furniture and views of the walls of Lincoln Castle. We're here for the beer though and, bloody hell, there isn't half a lot of it! 10 handpulls take pride of place on the bar. One of these features a cider, on this occasion Saxby's Bourbon Cask. This leaves 9 more just for beer: Battle Stormin' Norman, Welbeck Abbey Sligo, Rudgate Ragnar, Little Critters Roar, Fixed Wheel Lemon Greg, Welbeck Abbey Fruit Arcade, Battle Cross Fire, Greene King Abbot Ale and Timothy Taylor Landlord. The sheer breadth and range is something to behold. It won't come as a shock when I say that it took a moment for me to collect myself and decide. Conveniently the barman was in the toilet when we arrived so we had a bit more time to make our choice. I eventually chose a half of Welbeck Abbey Fruit Arcade, whilst Amy chose a half of Thornbridge Heaps, the guest craft keg option. Our round came to £5.95. Drinks in hand, we grabbed a table opposite the bar. The Strugglers was delivering again. It's always been one of the pubs I remembered most from our last visit and it effectively lives rent free in my head since I first stepped through the door. It's a sensational place. There was no way it wasn't going to feature on any return trip to Lincoln. Arguably, it was worth the train fare alone just to come here again. And I hadn't even tried my chosen beer yet! When I did, it confirmed what I already knew. There really is no place like The Strugglers, for their range and quality foremost but also for the environment in which such a beer can be consumed. Just a note to say that under 18s are not permitted anywhere on the premises. Anyway, back to the beer. Fruit Arcade (4.7%) is named after a former greenhouse on the Welbeck Abbey estate that was responsible for one of the first UK cultivations of pineapples. This beer is an ode to that achievement. A blend of hops from 3 different regions have been used to add character and fruity punch but the standout is Chinook, which envelops everything in a big, zesty blanket of grapefruit. This beer is a triumph. This pub is a haven. A sanctuary. The very definition of a destination pub. It's not all happiness and joy though. The Strugglers has clung on to a tragic remnant of its past. A phantom dog is in residence. In life, it belonged to a man named William Clarke. A regular of the pub, he was later hanged for the murder of a gamekeeper. Following his execution, the landlord of the pub took in Clarke's dog, a lurcher, and cared for it until the end of its life, after which he had it stuffed. It now resides, physically at least, in the castle museum. However, it seems that the dog's spirit has not accompanied its mortal remains. The dog has been seen walking the castle walls and has been heard scratching at the pub door. If the dog is ignored, so the reports go, it resorts to barking to be let in. Many locals have reported feeling a dog brush past them or have glimpsed a canine figure sat by the bar. Clearly the dog feels as welcome at the pub in death as it did in life. I can't say I can blame it for not wanting to leave this place! But, leave we must, and so it was on to the next.
Our next location was not very far away at all. At the end of Westgate, we turned left onto Union Road and were almost immediately confronted with The Victoria.
Residing a stone's throw from the west gate of Lincoln Castle, The Victoria dates from 1843 and is named for the eponymous monarch, who ascended to the throne in 1837. This stone-built pub is another Batemans enterprise and, like many of the pubs in their estate, does not feature a pictorial pub sign, although there are images of Victoria throughout, including imprinted in the front windows. A major refit in 2023 led to the current internal appearance. Entering through the door gives you the option of turning left into a small, comfortable lounge with stools and a carpeted floor. Continuing on takes you into a larger area, which is effectively two rooms opened out into a single space. The flooring here is a wooden floor around the bar, with tiling leading out into a small, side garden. Benches, pews and high stools form the furniture in the central room. The fixtures and fittings are mostly original but there are modern touches, with white plastered ceilings and skylights and, to the rear, a modern, low-ceilinged extension which doubles as both a library and a games room. The bar servery is central and serves both the main room and the snug directly. The toilets are to the rear. The bar features 8 handpulls, 5 of which were in use during our visit. Our options here were St. Austell Tribute, Black Sheep Best, Batemans XXXB, Batemans XB and Timothy Taylor Landlord. I opted for the XXXB this time, with Amy choosing Brixton Reliance from amongst the keg range. A half of each came to £5.55. We decided to retreat to the small lounge, which had an atmosphere all of its own. The pub in general had a strange ambience. It was relaxing and calm but also felt like it could have many a secret lurking in its history. Research has found nothing untoward or unusual so maybe it's just the vibe that the building gives off. Nevertheless, this turned out to be another surprising venue that we'd found. Batemans pubs are underrated and, in my view, generally understated as to how welcoming they are. I don't recall visiting one that I haven't liked, and it was the same here. The beer was decent too. XXXB (4.8%) is tawny in colour, with a peppery aroma and flavours of biscuit. It's a very well-rounded beer and it's easy to see why it's been the recipient of many awards, both at local and national level. It speaks to the continued strength and consistency of the Batemans beer portfolio. Another big tick that sets their pubs apart.
Following our unexpectedly pleasant stay at The Victoria, we retraced our steps slightly now. We needed to head back in the direction of the cathedral for the next part of our journey. The best way to do this was to walk through the grounds of the adjacent castle. This was another surprise! The castle grounds are massive and, as well as housing Lincoln Crown Court, also feature two dragon sculptures embedded in the ground. We had had no idea that you could just walk through the castle grounds, but they are actually open to the public. Entrance to the castle itself is ticketed and that certainly seems like something worth returning to the city for! Having made our way through this particularly picturesque area, we turned left and found ourselves back on Bailgate. Our next location was rather an imposing one. One the junction of Bailgate and Eastgate, you will find the White Hart Hotel.
The White Hart Hotel dates back to 1386, when it was originally built as a lodging house for King Richard II. The hotel's footprint lies over the remains of a 1st century Roman settlement. An inn stood on the site from 1460, with its location absorbed into the expanding floorplan. The building expanded in the 17th and 18th centuries, with the central structures dating to between 1650 and 1722. A 1749 expansion added stables and rooms around a central courtyard. A building of such age should come brimming with history and the White Hart is no exception. The first conceptual design for the first ever military tank was completed in the hotel in 1915 and there are also notable links to the Battle of Britain and the Dambusters squadron, who were based at nearby RAF Scampton and are immortalised in a painting near the hotel reception. Bought and renovated by a local businessman in 2022 and 2023, it is now a 49 room luxury hotel in the most historic part of the city. Entering the hotel through the impressive entrance was quite an intimidating experience. The entrance steps lead up to a doorway, with reception to the right, the restaurant and access to rooms to the left and the bar straight ahead. An art-deco style, sweeping wooden bar occupies the far corner of the room. In between it and the door are a number of tables, served by red leather armchairs, under a high, but rather non-descript ceiling. A fireplace and ornate mirror face into the room. A raised area to one side features sofas and a Marshall jukebox. An impressive mirrored bar back overlooks proceedings. We certainly felt like outsiders and certainly felt underdressed. Still, we were greeted warmly and set about studying the bar. Two handpulls can be found here and they were providing a choice between Timothy Taylor Landlord and Theakston Old Peculier. I opted for a half of the former, with Amy selecting a half of Neck Oil. The quirks of hotel pricing meant that this came to an astonishing £7.35. We made our way to a spare table over to one side. Despite the steep price, the Landlord was kept well enough and went down well. The White Hart is certainly a premises that can be considered at the top end. The stylings and design are worthy of its status. The renovations have modernised things but also kept the hotel true to its long history. And with that history, come some very disturbing stories indeed. The hotel is rumoured to be very haunted. The most gruesome spectre is that of a maid. She rejected a man who was in love with her. Enraged at being spurned, he followed her to the first floor where he brutally stabbed her repeatedly in the face and left her to bleed to death. To this day, her tragic ghost has been heard screaming and sobbing, and even witnessed falling to her knees whilst shielding her face with her hands. A guest staying at the hotel had an unnerving experience of his own. After settling down to bed in the early hours of the morning, he was annoyed to hear footsteps and voices in the corridor outside. He reported the disturbance to reception and returned to his room. Shortly thereafter, the noises began again, this time accompanied by the handle of his door twisting and then the door rattling violently. He immediately flung the door open, only to be confronted by an empty corridor. Rushing back downstairs, he once again reported his experience. The receptionist on duty apologised for the inconvenience but didn't have the heart to mention that, not only was he the only guest, but that the rooms only have door handles on the inside, perhaps suggesting that whatever was rattling the handle was already in his room and was actually trying to leave. If murdered ghostly maids and nocturnal spectral visitors weren't enough, other activity allegedly includes sightings of a floating ball of light, a ghostly girl in a mop cap, the unexplained sound of a gunshot, the apparition of a faceless highwayman and poltergeist activity that takes the form of food jumping off plates in the restaurant. Some of this activity is believed to be the work of a young man who took his own life in the building but details are sketchy. Nevertheless, the hotel is apparently a very active place indeed.
It was time for us to get active once again too. Leaving the hotel the way we came in, we immediately took a right, this time back onto Eastgate and a venue that we had passed earlier but was now open. We were about to visit Lincoln's branch of Organ Grinder.
Part of the East Midlands pub chain operated by Nottingham-based Blue Monkey brewery, this addition to their estate occupies a building that was formerly a branch of BeerHeadz. Inside, you will find a single, large, square room, done out in a semi-industrial style, with bare wooden floors and a mix of wooden tables and comfy chairs. Posters and old beer adverts dominate the walls and there are a number of mirrors throughout. A large wooden bar sits at the back of the room, with a door to one side leading to the toilets. There is a small raised area behind the large front windows. Blue Monkey's logo is located prominently by the entrance. The pub is dog friendly but under 18s are not allowed. Happy days. We were looking forward to visiting this place. We do enjoy Blue Monkey beers and their pubs are excellent. It would be interesting to see how this particular example compared to their other sites. Given the ownership, it should come as no surprise that Blue Monkey's own products feature in abundance. 6 handpulls can be found here and these were all stocked with the brewery's own fayre, in the shape of BG Sips, Infinity IPA, Cooper's, Cinder Toffee, Guerrilla and Infinity Plus 1. Cinder Toffee is a sensational beer and I ordered a half, only to have my hopes dashed. The beer had gone, the barrel dry. Still, not to be disheartened, I instead went for a half of the Infinity IPA with Amy going for a half of Billabong, a DIPA from the keg range. All told, this came to £6.80. Having made friends with both a Collie/Greyhound cross and an Irish Wolfhound puppy, we retreated to a table a short distance from the bar. Our first impressions of this place were highly positive. The service was great, and the beer was wonderful! You'd expect Blue Monkey beer to be of the highest quality in one of their own premises and that was certainly the case. They provided a cracking drop of Infinity IPA! The character of this pub is very different to that of their other venues, primarily down to the style of premises that is. Their other pubs are traditional style boozers, whereas this leans more towards the micropub end of the spectrum but this can only be a good thing as it will allow it to stand apart and forge its own identity. This is definitely worth a visit if you happen to be in the area.
It was on to something slightly different now. Heading back past the White Hart Hotel, we continued to the very end of Bailgate, finding ourselves at the very top of Lincoln's infamous Steep Hill. Prior to beginning our descent, we had another stop off planned and this was a return to a place we'd visited on our last trip here. Our attention now turned to the Wig & Mitre.
What is now the Wig & Mitre was formerly two separate buildings, both dating from the 14th century. The current exterior dates from the Georgian period when the buildings were combined into a single premises. The name juxtaposes the names of the two pubs that the buildings operated as prior to their combination. The 'Wig' relied on judges for its trade, whilst The 'Mitre' got most of its footfall from the clergy. The resulting narrow frontage hides a surprisingly large interior. A wood floored front room, with banquette seating and wooden furniture looks over the street. Beyond this is a middle room, with the bar servery to one side. Further seating can be found in the rear room, as can the toilets. An upstairs area boasts a restaurant space, as well as additional seating. Throughout, original features can be seen. Exposed beams and brickwork hark back to the building's origins. The aforementioned bar features 4 handpulls, all of which were available during our visit. The choices were Timothy Taylor Landlord, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker, Black Sheep Best and Beermats Legitimate. Legitimate was a new beer for me so that was a no-brainer. A half of that and a half of Brixton Low Voltage for Amy totalled £6.00. We chose to sit in the brighter front room to enjoy our drinks and discuss how much we could remember from the last time we came here. We both remembered visiting and how old the building was so it was nice to experience the place again. I'd also discovered something that I hadn't been aware of on our last visit. The Wig & Mitre has a haunting. The apparition of a Cavalier from the English Civil War has been seen crossing the room and vanishing through a wall, the most alarming occurrence of which took place in front of 6 staff who were enjoying a drink after work. We saw nothing unusual during our stay but we did enjoy the beer. Legitimate (4.5%) is billed as a classic English bitter. Auburn in colour, it's big on the malt flavours and features notes of gentle spice alongside a bitter finish that lingers.
We would not be lingering longer though. With our glasses empty, it was back into the July air to tackle Lincoln's simply and accurately named Steep Hill. Having safely traversed our way to the bottom, we set about find our next location, which would again be something quite a bit different. It would not take us long to find it at all, as it sits adjacent to the bottom of the hill. This is Strait and Narrow.
Named for its location on The Strait, which links Steep Hill to High Street, this craft beer and cocktail oriented venue opened in 2012 in a former retail unit. The wide frontage gives no real clue as to what to expect once you enter. The interior is all dimmed lighting, neon signs, pop culture references and niche slogans. A large bar is to the left hand side, taking up most of one wall. Seating is a mix of high tables and stools as well as booths with diamante-studded leather sofas. TVs can be found throughout. A DJ booth is located to the rear, with the toilets on the first floor, accessed up a staircase in the corner. Telephones are mounted in different areas throughout the venue. Whilst these may look ornamental, they're actually quite a cool gimmick. The phones can be used to call the other phones throughout the venue, with a list next to each one confirming the number and location of each. In a nutshell, you can dial one at random and speak to strangers elsewhere in the venue. A novel concept in itself. We were here for beer though and, whilst I knew going in that was no cask to be found here, it doesn't mean that there's a shortage of choice. Alongside a frankly preposterous cocktail menu, the draft beer selection focuses heavily on Belgian beer, but with some more wallet-friendly options too. On the day I couldn't resist Anspach & Hobday's legendary London Black. Amy went for Tiny Rebel's Clwb Tropica. A half of each set us back a reasonable £6.20. We claimed the booth closest to the stairs and got to grips with the place. This is definitely a unique venue and understandably popular with a younger clientele but with enough references and subtle touches to appeal to older drinkers too. The beer range is certainly belting. The London Black was on excellent form. There's a reason it's such an iconic beer. Barring one small spillage on my part, we enjoyed our time here. It was something unusual and provided a good respite from the more traditional pubs, and it certainly revitalised us after the walk downhill. If you fancy a laugh and some quality craft beer, this is exactly what you're looking for.
Now that we were at the bottom of the hill, we still had around half a dozen pubs on our radar. The first of these was an old favourite, situated a short distance from the Strait and Narrow and at the top (or bottom depending on your preference) of Lincoln's High Street. On to the Cardinal's Hat.
This Good Beer Guide 2026 listed pub has a long and checkered history. Built in the late 15th century, and now Grade II listed, it was originally the townhouse of the Granthams, a local family of wealthy wool merchants. Early in the 16th century, the family relocated and their former home became a pub in 1514. It is named after Cardinal Wolsey, Bishop of Lincoln 1514-1515, and later Lord Chancellor to Henry VIII. By 1609, the building consisted of a pub and accommodation on the ground floor, with further rooms, of differing quality, on the floors above. The building suffered significant damage during the Civil War, after which it was put up for sale. By 1801, it was no longer a pub. In the years following, it had many uses, being used as a poultry shop, a grocer's, a baker's, a provisions dealership and then a furniture shop, which closed in 1983. A period of dereliction followed. In 1952, the St. John's Ambulance bought the building and used the rear as their HQ. During this period, concrete rendering that had covered the original timber frame was removed and some period features were restored with materials reclaimed from Hartsholme Hall, which was being demolished. The front half of the building became a branch of Halifax and then Royal Bank of Scotland until 1994. In 2014, a local businessman bought the building and reopened it as the Cardinal's Hat the following year. It's certainly been an impressive feat bringing a structure of this age back into use and in such a quality manner. Behind the half-timber and brick facade, the interior is a long bar area, with smaller rooms behind. The bar area features wooden floors with chessboard tiling, high tables and stools. Another room to the rear includes carpeting, wood panelling and a log burner. The toilets are to the rear of the building. The history of the pub has been maintained by the presence of original features and the overall footprint is unchanged. The Cardinal's Hat has developed into a must-visit stop in this part of Lincoln and has an enviable reputation for its beer quality. It's just as well when there's so much of it! The bar features a whopping 12 handpulls, although 4 of these are specifically for cider (Seacider Pineapple, Lilley's Pina Colada, Lilley's Mango and Thistly Cross Whisky Cask, since you asked). The other 8 pumps offer an almost bewildering array of options. On the day, the choices were Oakham Citra, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Ossett White Rat, a house beer, brewed specifically for the pub, brewery unknown, Abbeydale x Colbier In The Elements, Jolly Sailor Mangoes Overboard, Shipstone's IPA and Fuzzy Duck Golden Cascade. After a brief delay whilst I got my bearings, I finally settled on Mangoes Overboard, with Amy choosing Vocation's Crush Hour from the keg range. A half of each came to £5.80. With the weather still remaining pleasant, we opted to sit outside. The pub benefits from pavement seating to the front which overlooks a pedestrianised area and is perfect for people watching. People watch we did, whilst doing our beers justice. The beer here is superb. Mangoes Overboard (4.3.%) comes from Jolly Sailor, out of Selby in North Yorkshire. It's a delicious pale ale with a great big punch of mango. There's a hoppy bitterness too, which cuts through the fruitier tang. In short, it's a perfect summer beer, which is just as well as I was sat quaffing it on a July afternoon. Great beer and a fantastic venue. Well done to all involved.
There was another short walk involved now. Heading straight across from the Cardinals Hat, we made our across St. Martin's Square, onto St. Martin's Lane. Following this for a few more yards brought us to the junction with Hungate, and our next destination was clearly in sight: the White Horse.
Formerly known as the Tap & Spile, there has been a pub on this site since at least 1794. However, the current building dates from 1921 when Ely brewers Hall, Cutlack and Harlock rebuilt it. The Tap & Spile was the name it traded under from the early 1990s, until a period of closure. After a refurbishment, the pub reopened in 2023, back under the White Horse name. The bright, pleasant looking interior encompasses two rooms. The main room is the dining room and features green walls and wooden floors. Furniture is simple wooden tables and chairs. A smaller room to one side is a snug, which is darker and features curved, leather seating. A small but well-appointed beer garden is accessed to the side. This is partly-covered but also features tables out in the open, and much flora to be admired. The interior wall decor is primarily given over to unfussy artwork. The bar is at the back of the room as you enter. This is a food-led pub but drinkers are also welcome, although you will be asked to sit in the snug or the garden unless eating. Upon said bar you will find 3 handpulls. On the day, 2 beers featured, Kerr's Endeavour and Bass, alongside Ascension Shimmy cider. I chose a half of Bass, with Amy going for a craft beer called Saint Monday. Our round came to £6.00. We decided to sit outside in the garden, which proved to be a mistake. Not because the garden is unpleasant or because the beer was bad, but because we had the misfortune of being sat within earshot of two of the most haughty, entitled women that we'd ever heard, discussing death and inheritance, apparently finding it all rather blase and amusing, with no regard for what they were saying or who might overhear. A warning to all: if you must air your dirty laundry in a public place, have a bit of decorum. Just because you don't have feelings or empathy doesn't mean that the people that can hear you don't. Be respectful and courteous. It's not hard. End of rant. Unfortunately, our encounter with said individuals rather dampened our enthusiasm for this place. In general, it's a nice pub and the Bass was in good condition. On another occasion, this would have been a pleasant spot to enjoy a beer and kill some time. It's just a shame that, at that moment, some of the clientele tainted our experience.
Moving on from our upsetting adventure at the White Horse, our next stop was another short stroll away. Heading back to the main road, we continued down West Parade and then took a right onto Victoria Street. Here we would find our next stop, the Joiners Arms.
Settled amongst the Victorian terraces, the Good Beer Guide 2026 listed Joiners Arms owes its existence to the city's expansion, when pubs like this sprang up as more houses were built in the city. Constructed around 1867, the Joiners was a fully established pub by 1880. The name comes from the tendency to name pubs after local craftsmen and industry. Make no mistake, this is in no way the only pub with this name across the country. The traditional feel of this place has been maintained from the get-go. The single door leads into an interior that features several smaller rooms. The main lounge area features carpeted flooring, wooden furniture, photos displayed on the walls, aviation artwork, football memorabilia, and a ceiling festooned with Union flags (it's only the Union Jack if it's flown at sea, but you knew that). Bench seating sits around the perimeter. There is an open fire, as well as a pool table and dartboard, and even a retro arcade machine. To the right, three steps lead up to a polished wooden bar. The rest of the interior is divided into smaller rooms so it feels less open and more snug. There is an enclosed rear beer garden with barrel tables and benches. Back to the bar, and 6 of the 8 handpulls were in use. Whilst two of these provided cider, in the shape of Lilley's Mango and Seacider Marmalade, the rest were purely offering ale with the choice of Moon Gazer Pintail, Black Market Illicit, Twisted Oak Jumpers for Goalposts and Hawkshead Red. An intriguing choice, I think you'll agree. In the end, the Illicit from Warsop's Black Market caught my eye. We paid £3.35 for a half and a Diet Coke for Amy. We found a table tucked around the corner from the bar and lamented our experience in the last pub. The one advantage is that we'll be unlikely to see those women again to give them a piece of our minds, more's the pity. The Joiners Arms was very quiet when we were there but it was only a Tuesday and the pub doesn't open until 5pm in the week so likely benefits from later evening and weekend trade. What trade they do get is certainly coming for the beer. It's great quality stuff! Illicit (4.3%) is billed as a session pale. Citra, Chinook and Amarillo hops combine for citrus, grapefruit and pine flavours but there are also hints of coconut and orange peel. Great stuff! Overall, I was undecided about the Joiners Arms but, given the time of our visit, I'm prepared to give them the benefit of the doubt.
We were into the final stretch now, with three pubs left to go. All of them were in close proximity to the train station, which meant we would now be heading back in that direction. Leaving the Joiners Arms, we headed back down Victoria Street, continuing on where it becomes Orchard Street. At the end of the road, we reached Newland and turned left, and then kept following the road until we reached the junction with Wigford Way, where we turned right. This took us back over the river and eventually linked up with the bottom half of the High Street. Crossing over the railway line for now, we instead focused our sights on a pub that lies a few feet away, The Treaty of Commerce.
This half-timbered building began life in 1862 as a grocer's and then, shortly afterwards, became a tea trader's. Its change of use into a pub came with the introduction of its unusual name, which references the Cobden-Chevalier Treaty of 1860, an Anglo-French trade agreement that reduced tariffs and encouraged trade. The Treaty of Commerce is owned by Batemans and operates as one of the few remaining independent pubs in this area of Lincoln. Inside, the pub is basically one long room, with the servery at the top end, with seating scattered throughout. An unusual barrel-vaulted ceiling can be seen in the rear part of the room. Bench seating and more traditional wooden tables and chairs are the order of the day. A corridor to one side leads to both the toilets and the beer garden, which is both partly covered and surprisingly large. There are several ornate mirrors throughout and an original fireplace in the middle section. On the bar, there is a bank of 5 handpulls. On the day, 4 of these were in use offering the options of Timothy Taylor Landlord, Batemans XB, Oakham Citra and Batemans XXXB. Given that I'd yet to have any Citra on this specific trip, there was no time like the present. A half, alongside a half of Neck Oil, for Amy came in at £6.00. We grabbed a table about halfway down the room. The Treaty of Commerce is a mecca for football fans during the season as it's the closest pub to the station, although they are steadfastly home fans only on match days. On a quiet Tuesday though, we almost had the place to ourselves, barring a very small group of regulars at the bar. The Treaty of Commerce is an interesting little place. There's a surprising amount of character lurking within and it's an unusual building. I found it comfortable and welcoming and Amy was a fan of it. I'm pleased to say that the Citra was in good nick too, which came as something of a relief.
We had two pubs left now and we would continue away from the station for the time being. Continuing our journey down the High Street, within a few minutes we came within sight of a church over the road. This marked the rough location of our penultimate stop. Opposite the church, on our side of the road, is the Golden Eagle.
Castle Rock's only outpost in Lincoln, the Golden Eagle has been a pub since the early 1700s. Since then it has served many a thirsty local and weary traveller. The pub ties into the city's football history too. As well as being a short distance from Lincoln City's Sincil Bank, a previous landlord was former Lincoln footballer Yaffer Ward. As befits a pub in Castle Rock's portfolio, the Golden Eagle has a more than respectable beer reputation and is the last pub of the day to be listed in the 2026 Good Beer Guide. This promised good things, as well as giving us a chance to visit another of Castle Rock's tenanted pubs, far away from the ones we're used to. Entry to the pub is under the former coach arch and in through the single door, which gives you a choice of two rooms. One features window booths and a real fire, soft lighting and dark panels. The other room is more open plan with longer tables. Both rooms host a myriad of original features, with exposed brickwork, wooden floors and simple furniture. TVs feature in both areas. A beer garden is tucked out the back with simple seating, a covered area and heaters for colder weather. The bar sits roughly central and serves both areas. We entered into the larger room, where the bar occupies a corner spot. 3 of the 5 handpulls were in use, with a choice between Magpie Jay IPA, Ossett Trip Hop #6 and Woodforde's Route to 1966. I initially went for the Ossett but a sip proved this to be off, with an acrid vinegar taste that was not pleasant. I swapped it for the Jay IPA, which was very good so that made up for things. Always take your beer back if you know it's off! I'm aware that I'm occasionally a hypocrite in this regard. Amy went for a Diet Coke so, with my half as well, it came to £4.40. We found a table, which wasn't hard given the quietness and time of day, and set about running the rule over the place. The Golden Eagle is a really nice pub. As with many of Castle Rock's premises, the traditional and modern touches have been married up really well to create a very good pub experience. Good beer, good service and good vibes are what it should be about. Unusually for a pub so close to a football ground, the Golden Eagle also welcomes away fans so you can imagine that it's absolutely heaving on a matchday. Outside of those times though, it's an oasis of relaxed calm.
One stop to go now, so back we went, up the High Street and back in the direction of the train station. Crossing the road, we soon found our final destination, roughly equidistant between our last two stops. Our tour of Lincoln would conclude at the Imp & Angel.
The city's first micropub was the Hop & Barley, which opened in this building in 2016. Three years later, the property changed hands, but remained a pub, reopening as the Imp & Angel. The pub occupies a modern extension to an adjacent property. The name refers to two of Lincoln's famous symbols, the Imp in Lincoln Cathedral and the Angel from the cathedral's Angel Choir. Inside, the layout is simple and compact. Wooden bench seating runs around the walls and there are also a number of square tables and a handful of chairs. Pendant lights and floral wallpaper enhance the level of comfort, and there is also a large mirror on one wall. A TV above the bar often shows live sport. A rear beer garden, with a smoking shelter and stools, is accessed through the gate next to the pub. The toilets are in a corner next to the bar. The aim of the pub is to carry on the legacy of Lincoln's micropubs by providing a relaxed environment for a pint or two with fewer of the distractions of bigger sites. On the bar, there are 3 handpulls, although just one of these was in use, providing Jolly Sailor Ship's Cat. I went for a half whilst Amy went for a half of Camden Pale, at the total cost of £4.50. Walking into the Imp & Angel was a strange experience. It's not very often that I'm the man in the pub with the most hair but what can you do? Amy was slightly unnerved about being the only female present so we chose to explore the beer garden. On the one hand, it's good that the building that birthed Lincoln's micropub scene is still being utilised for the same purpose. On the other, there's nothing overly outstanding about the Imp & Angel. Is it worth a visit? Yes. Is the beer good? Also yes. Is there much to distinguish it from its peers? Sadly not but that's possibly one of the negatives of the micropub model, although I'm generally a fan of the concept and I've been to some absolute belters. As mentioned, the beer was good enough. Ship's Cat is a 4.6% New Zealand style pale ale. The New Zealand hops give hints of white wine and grape and just enough punch to balance out the piney bitterness. It's a good beer and makes it two for two successes for Jolly Sailor on the day. I'll be checking them out more often.
And, with that, we were done. We made our way back to the station, past the well-regarded Tiny Tavern, closed on Tuesdays, grabbed some food on the way, found our platform and whiled away the time before our train. When we eventually boarded and were wending our way back in the direction of home, we were tired but content. It had been a fantastic day, for the most part. Lincoln is definitely worthy of discussion for its beer scene as much as for its wealth of history. Somehow, in the discussion of 'beer cities', it seems to get lost in the noise generated by the likes of Sheffield, Leeds and Birmingham, even Nottingham. That needs to change. Lincoln's pubs are brilliant. There's something for everyone, from your old school traditional boozers, to your modern, up-and-coming craft beer havens, and everything in between. I've said it before, and it still applies. Pubs are a product of a city and its people. Pubs see it all and, though it's getting tougher these days, survive a lot of it. In cities steeped in millennia of history, there are stories and the only thing better than stories are pubs to tell them in. Pubs built in blood and sweat and coated in the soil and smoke of the ages, and the weight of the culture they represent. Lincoln stands tall, with its hills and its cathedral, and yet, somehow, the pubs elevate that beyond what the naked eye can see. I was charmed by Lincoln before. Now I'm enchanted and I almost feel bad for not recognising it sooner. The city's heart is evident in its cobbled streets, and in its people and in its quaint, independent shops. But the pubs are where it bares its soul.
Pub of the Day: The Strugglers Inn. Eternally a Lincoln institution. Go there now.
Honourable Mention: Cardinals Hat. A must-visit in a picturesque part of the city.
Beer of the Day: Welbeck Abbey: Fruit Arcade. Fruity, juicy, delectable.
Biggest surprise: Dog & Bone. Genuinely a really nice, friendly, welcoming pub that feels off the beaten track but really isn't.
