A Leicestershire Trifecta

Spring has sprung! Sort of. Admittedly, we haven't been blessed with the wall-to-wall sunshine that we were spoiled with this time last year but, finally, the days are getting longer, the evenings are brighter, daffodils are making an appearance on roadsides and verges and, if reports are to be believed, a giant, fiery orange orb has been seen in the sky. Long may it continue. All of this, of course, makes for excellent conditions for getting out and about and exploring pubs. Not that such an activity is weather-dependent but it certainly helps. A couple of days ago I decided to start my latest batch of annual leave by venturing out for a revisit to a corner of Leicestershire that last featured in these pages all the way back in the December of 2014. Since then, whilst I've visited said location a few times, it has very much been limited to a once a year trip, normally as part of the obligatory site recon in the runup to Download Festival. More recently, Amy and I were back in the area towards the end of last year, visiting a used car retailer to upgrade our ailing vehicle. The location in question is Castle Donington and, for good measure whilst I was in the area, I thought it would make sense to throw in a couple of the neighbouring villages as they are both relatively accessible and boast pubs that would be new to me. 

So it was that, on the first day of meteorological Spring no less, that I found myself heading out. Typically, the day was colder and more overcast than the two preceding days but, given that it was a Friday in mid-March, it could have been much, much worse. I had thought long and hard about my itinerary and the ease with which I would be able to travel between my triumvirate of chosen locations. I had decided to make the most of public transport, specifically the Skylink bus, which runs from Nottingham out to East Midlands Airport and areas beyond. Given that Castle Donington lies adjacent to the airport, this plan seemed to make sense. However, my first destination was somewhere new. I boarded the Skylink around 11.20am with a journey ahead of me of around an hour. It ended up taking slightly longer than that, due to roadworks and general Friday traffic. Eventually though, the bus entered the airport, travelled through the site, exited at the other end and continued its route down a country lane, just off of the A453. It was here that I disembarked, at the very head of the first village on my route. My first destination was Diseworth.

Diseworth is a village and former civil parish, now in the parish of Long Whatton and Diseworth, in North West Leicestershire. It is south of East Midlands Airport and off Junction 23A of the M1 motorway.

A village of some 670 residents, it is located 14 km to the north-west of Loughborough and 2.5 km to the south-east of Castle Donington. The settlement is in the civil parish of Long Whatton and Diseworth, and lies within an undulating agricultural landscape and occupies a shallow valley created by the Diseworth Brook as it flows eastwards before becoming Long Whatton Brook and proceeding to its confluence with the River Soar.

The four principal streets of the village - Grimes Gate, Hall Gate, Clements Gate and Lady Gate - meet at The Cross; a staggered crossroads close to the Church of St Michael's and All Angels. Page Lane runs parallel to Lady Gate. The Green running along the southern edge of the settlement gives access into Hall Gate - via The Bowley -and into Lady Gate. Diseworth Brook flows to the south of Hall Gate and is joined by tributaries to the east of Shakespear Close and near Town End.

The famous astrologer and occultist, William Lilly was born in Diseworth on 1 May 1602.

The village's name means 'farm/settlement of Digoth'. Archaeological evidence shows that the site of Diseworth was inhabited in the Roman, Saxon and Viking periods. Its position in a sheltered valley next to the brook is a classic setting for early settlement, and the development of farmsteads. Diseworth has had many variations on its name, but almost always with the suffix 'worth', meaning enclosed settlement.

At the time of the Norman conquest, Diseworth was sufficiently important to be part of an award to a Norman knight, and appear in the Domesday book. William Lovett held some 360 acres in Diseworth, although his tenure did not last for long. By the early 12th century, land around Diseworth was held by the Earls of Leicester and Chester, and by Robert de Ferrers. Many disputes over the ownership of the land followed in the period up to the late 15th century, when in 1487 the estate was declared the property of Sir Henry Colet. The nearby Langley Priory had exercised considerable control over the parish church and the villagers, many of whom worked for the nuns. Benefactors who donated land to the Priory often chose land in Diseworth. Shortly before the dissolution of the Priory, along with other religious properties and land in England, Margaret Beaufort, mother of Henry VII, purchased a considerable part of the village to found what became Christ's College, Cambridge.

For the next five hundred years, Diseworth was dominated by the owners of Langley Priory estate and Christ's College, and saw the villagers paying rent to either the Reverend Gentlemen of Christ's, or the new owners of Langley: first the Grays, then the Cheslyns and then the Shakepears. The college sold their interest in Diseworth in 1920, but there remain a few farms and houses still owned by landlords.

In 1931, the parish had a population of 345. On 1 April 1936, the parish was abolished and merged with Long Whatton. Today, Diseworth is still notable for having several active farms contained within the village itself, although its proximity to East Midlands Airport has very recently placed it under threat from industrial development that threatens the very character and setting of the village.

A few short minutes of walking took me to the centre of the village, where can be found the crossroads, in the shadow of the local church. From here, I took a right onto Hall Gate. It is here, that you will find Diseworth's only pub, and my first stop for the afternoon, The Plough.

One of many half-timbered, cruck-framed buildings still standing in the village, parts of The Plough date back to the 13th century. Beyond the whitewashed frontage, the interior features low-beamed ceilings and exposed brickwork, much of which was uncovered during 1990s renovation work. Despite the pub's position on the roadside, the main entrance is actually at the rear, although there is a second, narrower entrance to the front, accessed up a small flight of steps. Entering through this door, as I did, leads to a small entrance corridor which swings right into the bar area. The internal layout is of several smaller rooms. The bar is roughly central to the room and consists of a small, L-shaped servery. Beyond this, down a step, is a comfortable, carpeted lounge with wooden tables and chairs. Sofas and low tables occupy space in the bar room, which features a mix of bare wood and carpet on the floor. A further, longer room acts as a de-facto restaurant space but is also used by drinkers. A corridor leads out to a substantial beer garden, with a grassy area and numerous picnic benches. The gents toilets can be found just inside the main entrance, with the ladies in the rear corridor, near the back door. Throughout, the decor very much reflects the pub name and the agricultural background of the area, with old farming equipment, decommissioned firearms, chamber pots and all manner of rural artefacts on the walls. Old photographs are also displayed throughout, and the rear lounge is duck-themed and also features a large globe in one corner. The overall feel is that of a traditional village pub that offers a genuine, rural welcome. This is reflected in the bar choice too. 5 handpulls can be found on the bar. 4 of these were in use when I visited, offering Castle Rock Harvest Pale, Bass, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Titanic Plum Porter. With this being the first pub of the day, and needing to recuperate after the longer than expected bus trip, I decided to get proceedings underway with a pint, opting for Landlord. This cost me £4.80 and I initially made my way outside to take in the surroundings before I ventured into the rear lounge, and then finally took a seat on a sofa adjacent to the bar. The Plough is a lovely pub. It's packed full of traditional charm and is very welcoming and homely. It's also dog friendly. After trying, and failing, to catch the eye of a lovely Leonberger, I got unexpected attention from the pub dog, a friendly and hyperactive Spaniel, who came for a fuss before he got told off for being on the furniture. This is exactly the kind of interaction I enjoy in pubs, especially pubs like this. The pint was enjoyable too. I got the impression that the incumbent tenants have not long taken over but they certainly know how to look after their beer. The Landlord was very well kept and went down a treat. I was glad I'd made the effort to start my day here. This is clearly a premises that is at the very heart of village life and thrives on the trade of the locals. It's easy to see why. This is a village pub done very well indeed. 

If every pub turned out to be as good as The Plough, I would likely have a strong afternoon ahead of me. There was only one way to find out though. As much as I could have stayed for another, I really needed to be getting on. My next task was to make my way to Castle Donington. Technically, it is walkable but, given the geography of the local area and the distances involved, making the journey on foot takes well over an hour. Handily, as mentioned earlier, the Skylink bus runs through Diseworth itself and I had timed the length of my stay to coincide with the arrival of the next returning bus. A few minutes later, I was retracing my trip from earlier, in a time that was significantly less than had I attempted to hoof it. For those not in the know, Castle Donington has a trunk road running right through the middle and also happens to occupy the slope of a hill. For this reason, it is infinitely easier and more sensible to start at the top of the hill and work down. This would be the technique I would be employing for the rest of the afternoon. I got off the bus just below the brow of the hill, at a stop named after a pub that stands nearby and would be my next stop. Onwards now, to the Nags Head. 

This pub has occupied its location on Hill Top for well over a century and retains several original features, which have since been complemented by modern additions. The front door leads to a small entrance vestibule and an inner door, with a step down into the bar area. The servery is immediately opposite and takes up approximately half of the back wall of the first room. A small number of tables are arranged throughout the interior. These are mostly traditional scrubbed wood with upholstered chairs. The floor is primarily tiling with areas of carpet. Whitewashed walls and exposed beams are much in evidence, the latter decorated with horse brasses and old water jugs. The second half of the main room is slightly wider and features a fish tank, with fish, as an unusual centrepiece. To the left of the bar, a snug area provides additional seating. The toilets are located through a door to the rear of the first room. Behind the bar is a much larger room, laid out specifically for dining. A modern conservatory extension expands the available space. The outside area features a well-appointed garden, with a partly covered smoking area and round wooden tables. Leaded windows are a feature throughout. I've been to the Nags Head a few times before, although it ironically didn't feature during my previous blog trip to these parts. Every year for the past few years, I've enjoyed a pint here once a year whilst investigating the site layout for Download at the nearby Donington Park. For that reason, I'm fairly familiar with what the Nags Head has to offer. 4 handpulls, with 2 normally in use offering a single beer in the shape of Marston's Pedigree. I ordered a half, for the price of £2.60, and, after a brief sojourn outside, took my preferred seat at a small banquette adjacent to the front door. The Nags Head is yet another welcoming and comfortable place for a beer. Perhaps my familiarity has made me slightly biased but I always enjoy coming here. I'm not the only one. There were several regulars enjoying the atmosphere, amongst them some Irish labourers who were either on their lunch or had finished for the day. I can't blame them for wanting to spend time here. The Pedigree was in decent enough nick. In all the times I've visited, I've never had a bad drop here. It would become clear throughout the day that all of Castle Donington's drinking establishments have a unique character and appeal.

Things were about to go downhill, thankfully only in a literal sense. I left the Nags Head, reached the main road and turned right. This would take me down towards the centre of the village. My plan was to follow the main road initially and then venture into the village centre proper, before performing a sort of looping route that would end with me at the bottom of the hill, in close proximity to the bus stop I would use to return home. With my next location in sight after a few minutes of walking, I paused for lunch at what passes for the local bus station but is really two adjacent bus stops at a crossroads. Suitably rejuvenated, I walked a few more short yards and crossed over to my next stop, The Castle Inn.

 

This former coaching inn has recently benefited from a substantial refurbishment which has refreshed the facade and modernised the interior. The front door leads directly to the L-shaped bar, which serves a room laid out with tables and chairs, and the odd high stool here and there. To the right of the entrance, a smaller, cosier, area is used primarily for dining. The largely open plan layout benefits from subtle lighting and modern touches but also includes various original elements, including exposed ceiling beams. Behind the bar, a huge stone pizza oven occupies an additional room. The toilets are also to be found in the rear. The decor adds quirky touches, from unusual artwork on the walls, to a replica of the head of Michelangelo's David mounted in an aperture. The blue-painted bar surround adds a nice touch of colour contrast to the bare wood floors. Speaking of the bar, there is real ale to be found here too. A bank of 3 handpulls occupies one end of the bar. At the time of my visit, these were offering Batemans XXXB, Charnwood Vixen and Batemans Hooker. I chose a half of XXXB, which set me back £2.45, and I took a high round table next to the door, all the better to observe the room. Thus far, The Castle had seemed to be a welcome addition to Castle Donington's drinking scene and tasting the beer proved that to be correct. The XXXB (4.8%) was great. This is a classic tawny pale ale, brewed with Golding, Challenger and Bobek hops. The end result is balanced and peppery with flavours of biscuit and fruit. It  wasn't a beer I was overly familiar with. I certainly don't remember having it before although I may be wrong. Either way, it was a delight and definitely a beer that I'll be trying again in future. I was impressed with The Castle. This wasn't a venue that had existed at the time of my last proper trip out this way but I, for one, am glad for its existence. 

There was something unexpectedly different awaiting me at the next location. Leaving the Castle, I crossed back over the main road but this time I continued on, heading up Market Street, which is virtually opposite. This road curves around and up towards the central shopping area of the village. A short walk led me to where Market Street becomes Borough Street, an area I would be visiting on more than one occasion throughout the remainder of the day. My next stop is located on the corner of Borough Street and Church Lane, at The Apiary.

Named after a place where beehives are kept and managed, this is a cafe bar with a real, quirky, bohemian feel to it. The single step up to the front door leads into an exquisite interior. A long bar counter is on the left hand side. Beyond this, a snug-style area of standard seating can be found. A single table is located inside the front window and there are also two unusual free-standing tables, made from halves of old wooden barrels. This is very much a venue of two halves. Whilst one half leans decidedly towards drinking, the right hand room is more of a dining space, with tables laid out in a more formal, restaurant style. It's in the decor where this place really shines. Ceiling and table lamps, in retro style, some made from repurposed materials, occupy both the ceiling and the bar counter. There is a large gilt mirror directly opposite the bar. Floral designs are prominent, including a large mural on the front window. An area at the back of the first room has been painted to look like a theatre curtain. Period music posters are displayed throughout. The Apiary has the feel of a retro speakeasy, complete with suitably understated lighting. The toilets are in a corridor that roughly divides the two rooms. There is even a small area of outside seating on the pavement to the front. Before I'd even properly gotten my bearings, I was truly awestruck by the aesthetic of this place. It would be like nowhere else I'd visit all day. It almost reminded me of Time - The Vintage Hub, a cafe bar with similar vibes in Uttoxeter. The Apiary is on a much more compact scale though. It was also very busy. The one member of bar staff on duty was a one-woman machine who seemed to have everything under control. Whilst she simultaneously took people's payments, made coffees and poured pints, I had the chance to peruse my options which, admittedly, didn't take long. A pair of handpulls can be found here, but only one was in use, offering Bass. A half cost £2.25 and I retreated the short distance to one of the half-barrel tables. I really enjoyed the feel of this place, and my Bass was very good. This is the kind of unique venue that tends to crop up in unexpected places. It also had an unusual bar layout in that the draft beer kegs are positioned directly under the bar counter. From what I could ascertain just by looking, the same is true for the cask beer, which is served via vertical extraction. I hope there's at least a chiller or a cooling jacket as I'm not convinced there's a cellar. Still, it didn't appear to affect the quality of the Bass, so who am I to judge? The Apiary is worth a visit. It's unusual, but all the better for it. The sheer volume of customers is certainly testament to that fact!

I was approaching the halfway point of my itinerary now. The next stop on my travels was another pleasingly short distance away. Leaving The Apiary, I turned right and walked to the end of Borough Street, where I then turned left onto Hillside. A few yards away, slightly downhill, you will find the Jolly Potters.

Built at the turn of the 20th century, this traditional pub has retained much of its rustic charm and has a reputation for a warm welcome. The single entrance leads into an open-plan front room, which is divided into a bar and lounge. The stone-floored bar area features traditional wooden pews and an array of artefacts, memorabilia and local photographs on the wall. The bar counter itself is fairly small and tucked into a corner. The lounge benefits from comfortable seating and soft furnishings and is similarly decorated. A room to the back is longer and features a jukebox, TV, dartboard and access to a lower level, walled beer garden. This is a pub that I remember well from my last full trip here. It's identity as a homely drinking den is still apparent in early Spring as it was in the chill of December 12 years ago. Happily, real ale is still very much a feature. Amongst the bank of 4 handpumps, 3 were in use, offering a choice between Bass, Wye Valley HPA and Landlord. As it was the only one of the 3 yet to pass my lips at that point of the day, I was easily swayed by the HPA. I also made the decision to go for a pint. Some of the later destinations wouldn't open until a bit later on and so I decided to kill more time than I otherwise would have. Having parted with £4.60 for a pint of Wye Valley's finest, I decided to head into the back room. The Jolly Potters was also busier than expected, due largely to a retirement party who had taken up much of the space in the beer garden, where they were enjoying the warmth of the Spring sunshine. For my part, I was enjoying being in this pub again, and I was very much enjoying the beer. The HPA was in great condition. I nursed it for a bit to allow a bit more time to pass. Eventually though, the inevitability of an empty beer glass was once again upon me and I had a decision to make. 

My next move would be to temporarily leave Castle Donington behind me and venture to the other nearby village. This was best done from my present location and would still leave me plenty of time to return and complete my mission. Leaving the Jolly Potters, I turned back right and headed on, this time passing Borough Street without turning down it. Continuing on took me along a street with the unique name of Barroon, which leads past the main cemetery of Castle Donington and out of the village proper. Less than 10 minutes later, I was entering the neighbouring village of Hemington. 

Hemington is a village and former civil parish, now in the parish of Lockington-Hemington. In 1931 the parish had a population of 298. In 1790, the nearby Harrington Bridge was built to create a crossing of the River Trent. The new bridge was a toll bridge and everyone except locals living in Hemington or Sawley (in Derbyshire) were required to pay the toll.

Hemington was historically a township and chapelry in the parish of Lockington. It became a separate civil parish in 1866. On 1 April 1936, the parish was abolished and merged with Lockington, which was renamed Lockington Hemington in 1938. Gravel quarrying at Hemington during the 1990s led to the discovery of three sets of remains from successive medieval bridges across the Trent.

Although there is not a rail station in the village, East Midlands Parkway opened early in 2008 at Ratcliffe-on-Soar providing links on the Midland Main Line.

The full walk from Castle Donington to Hemington takes slightly over 15 minutes and involves following a single road. Barroon becomes Hemington Hill, at which point the pavement disappears. However, an adjacent public footpath continues the route, emerging at the bottom of the hill and on the edge of the village. I then turned left, and continued on Main Street. Hemington is a very picturesque little village, with rows of thatched cottages and well-manicured front lawns. At the centre of it all, is its one remaining pub and my next destination, the Jolly Sailor.

Thought to have originally been a weaver's cottage, the building that is now the Jolly Sailor dates from the 17th century. It has been a pub since the 19th century and is now the only remaining pub in the village after the nearby Three Horseshoes closed in 1993. The large beer garden to the front is the gateway to a very nice pub indeed. The main entrance leads directly to a U-shaped bar. The layout encompasses several rooms, with seating areas to the right and left and a smaller, slightly raised alcove to one side. Many original features still remain, including old timbers, a beamed ceiling and an open fire. Modern touches add to the ambience. Straight away, there is a buzz about this place. Inside, the pub was rammed with locals enjoying a chat and a pre-weekend pint. I was greeted quickly and in a friendly manner and sought about investigating the beer options. The bar here features 4 handpulls, all of which happened to be occupied when I dropped in. My options were Bass, Castle Rock How Soon is Now?, Little Critters White Wolf and Tiny Rebel F.U.B.A.R. It's rare enough seeing Tiny Rebel in the East Midlands as a whole, let alone in a village in rural Leicestershire, so F.U.B.A.R. it was to be! I made my way into the alcove area, where there was luckily still a table, after paying £2.25 for a half. I was glad I had as well. The beer was fantastic! At 4.4%, this is Tiny Rebel's flagship pale ale, brewed with American hops. The result is brilliant with dry, floral and spicy notes combining for an absolute winner. It went down way too quickly. What a beer, and what a pub to enjoy it in. The Jolly Sailor is a triumph! From the welcome I received, to the little details that make the pub look and feel inviting and even down to the posters for community events and the general hustle and bustle, this is a real gem of a place. If all of that wasn't enough, the beer quality is second to none. The pub is a former Good Beer Guide entry, most recently in 2025, so clearly their reputation for good beer is no secret or surprise to anyone. This is a bonafide, quintessential, top quality village pub. I heartily recommend you seek it out. Sadly, I would now have to leave it.

With the Jolly Sailor disappearing behind me, I made the 15 minute walk back to Castle Donington to continue my exploits. My next location would produce a tiny bit of deja vu and some hearty pangs of nostalgia. I now returned to Borough Street. My next stop hadn't opened until 4pm. Since I had now occupied sufficient time, I was able to visit Borough Street Bar.

If you're a long time reader of this blog and you have read my first Castle Donington blog, you may be wondering why this particular facade looks so familiar. Allow me to enlighten you. This place, situated two doors down from the Apiary, was formerly the Chequered Flag, later The Flag, a cask-centric micropub that lived rent-free in my head for some time, so much so that it earned an honourable mention in my top 31 pubs blog from January last year. Borough Street Bar is the building's current incarnation and it's certainly a different beast from its predecessor. Entering the bar, it's clear that lots of things are different. Gone are the stillaged casks, with ale served on gravity from directly behind the cash register. Instead, the layout has been drastically altered. A small serving area occupies a space along the left hand wall. The whole front space is predominantly given over to tables and chairs. Beyond the bar, there is a narrow drinking shelf and two high tables with accompanying stools. The toilets, situated along the corridor, have remained in the same place. The present owners have made an effective use of the available space and the feel is definitely best described as modern chic. Lighting is subtle and the floors are bare wood throughout. Despite the demise of the previous version of this place, real ale isn't gone forever. Two handpumps stand on the bar, on this occasion offering Batemans Yella Belly Gold and XXXB. Things aren't quite what they seem here though. Although the beer is dispensed through handpumps, the beer itself is in keykegs and not casks. Given that this is another venue with kegs hooked up under the bar, and the previous business's lack of a cellar, this is most likely being done to ensure better temperature control and a longer shelf life. Call a spade a spade though. It's also worth noting that payment is by card only, but I'm much less bothered about that. Still, whilst I was here, I did at least give the beer a go and settled for a half of the Yella Belly Gold for £2.25. It was actually decent, despite being colder than it should normally have been had it been a proper cask product. I have mixed feelings about this place. I really liked The Flag and I regret that I only went the once. It deserved to keep going but, in and of itself, its demise is a reflection of the current circumstances facing hospitality. In that regard, it is at least a good thing that the venue has reopened, albeit in a vastly different form, and continues to offer a hospitality option. 

Having finished my beer, which ended up being fine, and lamenting the loss of The Flag, it was time to move on. I had two stops left before my day was done. My next stop was another pub that opens a bit later during the week. Heading out of Borough Street Bar, I once again headed down Hillside, this time fully passing the Jolly Potters on my left. A short distance further on, I came to a passageway called Little Hill, which contains a set of stairs that lead down and around, back to the main road. After a few seconds, I was on Bondgate, which the central road had now become, and a few yards away from the Cross Keys. 

Another pub to have been active for many years, the Cross Keys has expanded over time and taken in what was once the former living accommodation. The current footprint is considerably larger than the pub's original form and boasts a multi-room layout. The etched windows and Minton tiling are original to the initial structure. A small step down leads to the front door, which is actually slightly below the level of the nearby road. The bar is directly opposite the entrance. To the right, a lounge area of tiled floors, long tables and settles also features both a quiz machine and a fruit machine. A smaller games room is just beyond, housing a dartboard. To the left of the entrance, there is a more compact, smarter bar area with higher tables and numerous stools. This is very much a community pub as evidenced by flyers for local fundraising events and clear support for local sports teams. Upon the aforementioned bar, a quartet of the 5 handpumps were offering goodies. The choices here were Hog's Back T.E.A., Marston's Pedigree, Sharp's Sea Fury and Wye Valley HPA. Given it's not a beer I see a lot, it would have been remiss of me not to partake of the T.E.A, a half of which cost a suspiciously exact £2.43. This turned out to be in good condition, which was especially pleasing seeing as it was a considerable distance from its home turf. It was nice to be back in the Cross Keys, purely because I had a fond memory of being here before and winning £10 out of the quiz machine on my own. I didn't waste my time with it on this occasion. However, this is still a pub that clearly has a space at the centre of village life. 

It was almost time for my day to end but I would have one last stop to make. By this time, I was now at the bottom end of the village and in close proximity to my last destination, which also conveniently has a bus stop opposite. Continuing down Bondgate, the road then becomes Station Road. There, next to the hulking site of a former mill, is The Lamb. 

This Marston's operated pub consists of two rooms, both served by a central bar. The front entrance opens into a small foyer, which allows you to go left or right. The left hand room is the lounge, equipped with a partly carpeted floor, settles, wooden furniture, a TV at one end and fairy lights strung from the ceiling. The right hand side is the public bar, with more TVs, a jukebox and a dartboard, alongside similar furniture. A beer garden is accessed down a rear corridor, as are the toilets, and there is additional seating on the pavement to the front of the pub. The bar is roughly rectangular and features a duo of handpulls on one end. At the time, my choice was between Banks's Amber and Marston's Pedigree. I opted for the latter on which to finish my day, and shelled out £2.60 for a half. I ummed and ahhed about which side of the pub to occupy. The right hand side mainly contained mechanics from the nearby second car retailer playing darts. Don't ask me how I knew they were mechanics and not salespeople. You could just tell. The left hand side was empty. I opted to be alone with my thoughts instead of hearing other people's voices and went to the quieter side. The Lamb is another premises that I've visited before. It's not a bad place outright. It's probably best described as a bit more rough and ready than a lot of the other pubs, but that's fine. It serves a purpose as all pubs worth saving do. In the grand scheme of things, the Pedigree can be described as passable. And that's fine too. This is not a pub for the beer connoisseur and it seems unlikely that it's the first one that the real ale crowd would visit on any given day. Still, despite all that, it has an atmosphere and an aesthetic all of its own and I didn't mind being in there. Contrast is important. 

With the last drops of Pedigree consigned to history, there was nothing left to do but cross the road and await the bus that would convey me back to Nottingham. With an hour's journey to undertake, it gave me plenty of opportunity to look back over my day and reach some conclusions. Firstly, I'd thoroughly enjoyed my revisit to Castle Donington. During my various fleeting visits over the years, I'd genuinely forgotten how nice of a village it is, even more so when you can explore it on foot and properly immerse yourself. Secondly, I don't think this particular corner of Leicestershire gets enough recognition for the quality of its pubs. Across all three of the villages I visited, not one pub is featured in the current edition of the Good Beer Guide, the Jolly Sailor's prior inclusion notwithstanding. This seems odd given the range and quality of beers I experienced and the general quality of the pubs I visited. The biggest takeaway for me though is that each pub, whether it be a traditional village pub, a modern gastropub, a no-frills boozer or a bohemian cafe bar, has its role to play within the community it serves. Nowhere was that made more clear than in these 3 connected but uniquely separate locations. Each pub has its niche, which it fits well. None of them were unduly bad. All of them fit with what their targeted clientele would expect but still remained open and welcoming to visitors. In the current climate, this is a necessity. Not only is it important do the basics and to do them well but it's imperative that pubs can adjust and adapt to ensure that they stave off the existential threats that seem to be everywhere. Support your local pubs but always remember this: even if it's not your local, it's somebody else's. And it's the melding of communities that helps us to be better people. We need each other to survive.

Pub of the Day: Jolly Sailor, Hemington. Lovely pub in a gorgeous village

Honourable mention: The Plough, Diseworth. A proper village pub

Beer of the Day: Tiny Rebel, F.U.B.A.R. There's a reason it's been around for so long.

Biggest surprise: The Apiary. Cool and quirky and totally unlike anywhere else. 

'For a quart of ale is a dish for a king'

Those of you who have been with me for a while, or even know the slightest thing about me, will know that any time I post a quote from literature it will be relevant to what follows, often serving as a form of linguistic foreshadowing. A case in point would be the title of this particular entry, taken as it is from the works of the single greatest writer that this island, nay the world, has ever produced. A writer whose impact on the written word, and wider impact on theatre, can never be understated. More so, this particular writer's formative impact on me on a personal level is something that I'm forever thankful for. It's doubtful I would have gotten into writing without the influence of this individual and I certainly wouldn't have the love and appreciation I have for literature and theatre in general. I speak, of course, of the Bard of Avon himself, William Shakespeare. You might be wondering why I've begun a beer blog by waxing lyrical about my literary hero but there is method within this madness. As part of my recent birthday celebrations, I was finally able to visit a destination that I've long wished to venture to. It's been a real bucket list destination of mine for many years and just so happens to be the birthplace and burial place of the gentleman described above. The location: Stratford-upon-Avon. The mission: to pay homage to Britain's greatest playwright and also to visit a very many pubs in the town of his birth. In short, Amy and I would fully immerse ourselves in the town that is inextricably linked to Shakespeare and see what gems we could discover amongst its many fine drinking establishments. 

Stratford-upon-Avon, also known simply as Stratford, is a market town and civil parish in the Stratford-on-Avon district, in the county of Warwickshire, in the West Midlands. It is situated on the River Avon, 91 miles (146 km) north-west of London, 22 miles (35 km) south-east of Birmingham and 8 miles (13 km) south-west of Warwick. The town is the southernmost point of the Arden area at the northern extremity of the Cotswolds. At the 2021 census Stratford had a population of 30,495.

Stratford was inhabited originally by Britons before Anglo-Saxons and remained a village before the lord of the manor, John of Coutances, set out plans to develop it into a town in 1196. In that same year, Stratford was granted a charter from King Richard I to hold a weekly market in the town, giving it its status as a market town. As a result, Stratford experienced an increase in trade and commerce as well as urban expansion.

Stratford is a popular tourist destination, owing to being the birthplace and burial place of the playwright and poet William Shakespeare, who is widely regarded as the national poet of England. It receives approximately 2.7 million visitors a year. The Royal Shakespeare Company resides in the Royal Shakespeare Theatre.

The name is a combination of the Old English strǣt (from Latin stratum), meaning 'street', ford, indicating a shallow part of a river or stream, allowing it to be crossed by walking or driving, and avon which is a Celtic word for river (Welsh: afon). The 'street' was a Roman road which connected Icknield Street in Alcester to the Fosse Way. The ford, which has been used as a crossing since Roman times, later became the location of Clopton Bridge.

A survey of 1251–52 uses the name Stratford for the first time to identify Old Stratford and the newer manors. The name was used after that time to describe the area specifically surrounding the Holy Trinity Church and the street of the Old Town.

The Stratford area was settled during the Roman period as the area was crossed by a Roman road: archaeological remains of a small Roman town have been found, about 1 mile (1.6 km) northeast of Stratford town centre at Tiddington, now part of Stratford, which was occupied from the 1st to the 5th century AD. The remains of two further probable Roman settlements have been found within a few miles of modern-day Stratford.

Oftfor, bishop of Worcester from 691 to 693, preached to the Hwicca tribe who inhabited south Warwickshire (then Mercia), and it has been argued that it was during this mission that a monastery was founded at Stratford. The earliest reference to the monastery comes from a charter in which Egwin (third bishop of Worcester) acquired a religious house at Aet-Stratford, which may have been on the site of the Church of the Holy Trinity. The rights of the bishops of Worcester to Stratford were confirmed by Offa in 781.

The monastery was likely destroyed by Viking invaders in 1015. The land remained in the ownership of the bishops of Worcester until the 16th century. The area around Holy Trinity Church is still known as Old Town as it was the original area of settlement around the monastery. The focus of the settlement at Stratford was later moved north, closer to the river crossing, which was better positioned for trade.

John of Coutances' plans to develop Stratford into a town meant Stratford became a place of work for tradesmen and merchants. By 1252 the town had approximately 240 burgages (town rental properties owned by a king or lord), as well as shops, stalls and other buildings. Stratford's tradesmen established the Guild of the Holy Cross for their business and religious requirements. The guild developed into the town's main institution of local government, and included the most important townsmen, who elected officials to oversee local affairs. They built a Guild Chapel in the 13th century, and a Guildhall and almshouses on Church Street in around 1417. The guild established an educational institution in the late 13th century.

Many of the town's earliest and most important buildings are located along what is known as Stratford's Historic Spine, which was once the main route from the town centre to the parish church. The route of the Historic Spine begins at Shakespeare's Birthplace in Henley Street. It continues through Henley Street to the top end of Bridge Street and into the High Street where many Elizabethan buildings are located, including Harvard House. The route carries on through Chapel Street where Nash's House and New Place are sited. Opposite New Place was The Falcon Hotel (now Hotel Indigo), at the corner of Scholars Lane. It is a timber-framed house with nearly 100-ft frontage to the street and dating perhaps from the end of the 15th century. The Historic Spine continues along Church Street where the Guild buildings are located dating back to the 15th century, as well as 18th- and 19th-century properties. The route then finishes in the Old Town, which includes Hall's Croft and the Holy Trinity Church.

Stratford, then referred to as strete ford, remained a village until the late 12th century when it was developed into a town by lord of the manor, Bishop John of Coutances. Coutances laid out a new town plan in 1196 around 1⁄2 mile (0.80 km) north of the original settlement, based on a grid system to expand Stratford and allow people to rent property in order to trade within the town. Coutances granted his new tenants the right to rent property and transmit it at death. This was called burgage tenure. Each development plot or "burgage" consisted of around 0.25 acres (0.10 hectares). A charter was granted to Stratford by King Richard I in 1196 which allowed a weekly market to be held in the town, giving it its status as a market town. These two charters, which formed the foundations of Stratford's transformation from a village to a town, make the town of Stratford over 800 years old, the town celebrated its 800th anniversary in 1996.

During Stratford's early expansion into a town, the only access across the River Avon into and out of the town was over a wooden bridge, which was first mentioned in 1235. The bridge could not be crossed at times due to the river rising and was described by antiquarian John Leland as "a poor bridge of timber and no causeway to it, whereby many poor folks and other refused to come to Stratford when the Avon was up, or coming thither stood in jeopardy of life." In 1484, a new masonry arch bridge was built to replace it called Clopton Bridge, named after Hugh Clopton who paid for its construction, a wealthy local man who later became the Lord Mayor of London. The new bridge made it easier for people to trade within Stratford and for passing travellers to stay in the town.

The medieval structures of local governance underwent significant changes during the Tudor period: The Guild of the Holy Cross was abolished in 1547 under King Edward VI's suppression of religious guilds, and the inhabitants of Stratford petitioned the Crown for a charter of incorporation as a borough, which they received in 1553. This allowed the formation a new Town Council which inherited the property and responsibilities of the abolished guild. The Charter of Incorporation refounded Stratford's school as the King Edward VI School.

The Cotswolds, located close to Stratford, was a major sheep-producing area up until the latter part of the 19th century, with Stratford one of its main centres for the processing, marketing, and distribution of sheep and wool. Consequently, Stratford became a centre for tanning during the 15th–17th centuries. Glove making was an important industry, which was at its zenith in the 15th and 16th centuries. As was malting, the processing of grain to turn it into malt.

John Shakespeare, originally a farmer, had moved to Stratford in 1551, from the nearby village of Snitterfield and became a successful glover (glove maker) and businessman, and an official on the Town Council. He met and married Mary Arden a member of the local gentry in around 1557. Together they had eight children, including Stratford's most famous son William Shakespeare in 1564, believed to be at the house now known as Shakespeare's Birthplace.

Stratford was the centre of considerable activity and some fighting during the English Civil War. Being located at the junction of several main roads, it was strategically important for both the Royalist and Parliamentarian armies. Due to its close proximity to the Parliamentarian stronghold of Warwick, Stratford remained under Parliamentarian control for the majority of the conflict, although it was only directly occupied by troops for sporadic intervals. In February 1643, Stratford was occupied by Royalist forces under Colonel Wagstaffe.

It was recaptured by Parliamentarians under Lord Brooke on 25 February after an engagement on the nearby road to Warwick. Having secured the town, Brooke returned to Warwick. In one notable incident in February 1643, Stratford's Market Hall, at the site of the current Town Hall, was destroyed after three barrels of gunpowder which were being stored there blew up. From March 1644, until part of the following year, Stratford appears to have been continuously occupied by Parliamentarian troops. There was one further Royalist raid in April 1645.

A number of famous people passed through Stratford during the conflict, such as Prince Rupert in April 1643. He was at Stratford again in July of that year, when he met the Queen Henrietta Maria, who was travelling through the Midlands and was the guest of honour of Susanna Hall, William Shakespeare's daughter, at New Place. Oliver Cromwell was at Stratford in December 1646, and again in 1651, before the Battle of Worcester.

Despite Stratford's increase in trade, it barely grew between the middle of the 13th century and the end of the 16th century, with a survey of the town showing 217 houses belonged to the lord of the manor in 1590. Growth continued to be slow throughout the 17th century, with hearth tax returns showing that at most there were approximately 429 houses in the town by 1670. However, more substantial expansion began following several inclosure acts in the late 18th century, with the first and largest development by John Payton who developed land on the north side of the old town, creating several streets including John Street and Payton Street.

In 1769, the actor David Garrick staged a major Shakespeare Jubilee over three days which saw the construction of a large rotunda and the influx of many visitors. This contributed to the growing phenomenon of Bardolatry which made Stratford a tourist destination.

Before the dominance of road and rail, Stratford was an important gateway to the network of British canals. The River Avon was made navigable through Stratford in 1639, by the construction of locks and weirs, providing Stratford with a navigable link to the River Severn to the south-west and to near Warwick to the north-east, this allowed, in the words of Daniel Defoe "a very great Trade for Sugar, Oil, Wine, Tobacco, Iron, Lead and in a word, all heavy goods which are carried by water almost as far as Warwick; and in return the corn, and especially the cheese, is brought back from Gloucestershire and Warwickshire to Bristol".

Between 1793 and 1816 the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal was built, linking the Avon at Stratford with Birmingham. By the early 19th century, Stratford was a flourishing inland port, and an important centre of trade, with many canal and river wharves along what is now Bancroft Gardens.

The first railway in Warwickshire; the Stratford and Moreton Tramway was opened to Stratford in 1826: this was a horse-drawn wagonway, 16 miles (26 km) long, which was intended to carry goods between the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal, the rural districts of south Warwickshire and Moreton-in-Marsh. The tramway fell into disuse by the early 1900s, and the tracks were lifted in 1918. A surviving remnant of this is the Tramway Bridge over the River Avon, a brick arch bridge which now carries pedestrians.

The first steam railway to reach Stratford was a branch of the Oxford, Worcester and Wolverhampton Railway from Honeybourne to the south, which opened in July 1859. This was followed by the Stratford on Avon Railway's branch from Hatton from the north, which opened in October 1860. Both branches initially had separate termini, but they soon agreed to join the two branches and open the current Stratford-upon-Avon railway station, which was opened in July 1861. Both branches later came under the control of the Great Western Railway. The connection of Stratford to the growing national railway network, helped enable the development of the modern tourism industry.

Stratford did not become a major centre of industry during the Industrial Revolution, but some industries did grow up locally: Edward Fordham Flower opened a large canal side brewery in Stratford in 1831. The Flower & Sons Brewery, on Clopton Road survived until 1967, when the company was taken over by Whitbread. Several lime kilns were opened locally, and the manufacture of tarpaulin and oilcloth flourished. The advent of rail transport in the middle of the century caused a major decline in river and canal transport, and the River Avon navigation through Stratford was abandoned in 1875. It was restored as a navigation by volunteers almost a century later in 1974.

Victorian Stratford's growth as a tourist destination was further enhanced by Edward Fordham Flower and his son Charles Edward Flower, owners of a local brewery business, and important figures in local affairs: Through their campaigning and fundraising efforts, the Shakespeare Memorial Theatre was opened on the banks of the Avon in 1879. The original theatre was destroyed by fire in 1926. Its replacement was opened in 1932, designed by Elisabeth Scott, making it the first important building by a woman architect erected in Britain.

In 1974, the ancient borough of Stratford was abolished and merged into the much larger Stratford-on-Avon District, and the area of the borough became a successor parish with a town council. That council inherited two long-standing charities, the Guild and College estates, that own property in the town; these assets were transferred to the Stratford Town Trust charity which (as of 2025) awards grants totalling over £2 million each year to the local community.

As is clear from the above, Stratford's history encompasses more than just its connections to Shakespeare. We were eager to discover more about the town and find out what else lurked beyond the prying eyes of tourists, off the beaten track. First, there was the matter of getting there. To aid in our explorations and enjoyment, we had booked a hotel just on the edge of the town centre. As we would be staying the night, and given Stratford's surprisingly poor rail links, we opted to drive, a journey which took roughly 90 minutes with traffic. We would be based at one of two Premier Inns in the town, adjacent to the canal, and we arrived a few minutes before our early check-in time of 11am. Once we had decamped to our room, refreshed and taken a moment, we were ready to dive into this historic town and what would be this blog's first ever trip to the fair county of Warwickshire. We had a simple but effective plan. We would begin by visiting a few of the Shakespeare-linked locations, a couple of which we had prepaid tickets for. This would take up the majority of our first few hours. Following that, it would be on to the pubs. I had cobbled together a rough itinerary that would see us circumnavigate the town centre and finish off at the heart of things, where we would be a short walk from our lodgings, thus completing our route close to where we would begin the day. First things first though: the spirit of Shakespeare was calling. Once more unto the breach!

We began our exploration by making the trek over to Holy Trinity Church, where Shakespeare and his wife are buried. On our way, we marvelled at the town's utterly beautiful Tudor buildings. It didn't take us long to be thoroughly enchanted by the charm. The town itself is relatively small and compact which means that nothing is too far from anything else. We very quickly established that it's an excellent town to walk in, primarily because you get the full experience of seeing the impressive architecture up close. After a few minutes, we arrived at the church only to have our hopes utterly dashed. The church itself is only open at weekends (we were there on a Thursday), which meant that we were denied the chance to visit the chancel and see Shakespeare's grave and that of Anne Hathaway. We were able to scan a QR code on the church door which allows for a virtual tour, but that's not quite the same thing. Luckily, our disappointment here would turn out to be the only damp squib of the day. Our next stop would be Shakespeare's Schoolroom & Guildhall, the former home of the Guild of the town which was subsequently converted for use as a schoolroom, a function it still serves to this day as part of King Edward VI School. The building itself dates from the 15th century and has functioned as a school building since at least the 1560s. The upstairs still functions as a school room, whilst the ground floor contains a preserved chapel that would have served the priests from the original guild. We had paid for a ticket in advance, as part of a package that also included Shakespeare's Birthplace, which we would visit later in the day. Our time spent at the schoolroom was fascinating. We were given an impromptu lesson by one of the guides, in period appropriate Tudor schoolmaster garb, who had an encyclopaedic knowledge of Shakespeare that made me rather envious. I wish he'd been one of my English teachers at school. The Schoolroom visit gave us a proper insight into the Tudor education system and the environment in which Shakespeare would have grown up and been taught. 

Following our time at school, we continued on into the town centre, where we would find our next location. It was time for us to visit Shakespeare's Birthplace, a restored 16th century townhouse that was owned by William's father and was where William himself was born and spent his childhood. It really was a humbling experience exploring the house where Shakespeare grew up, and imagining the hundreds of years of history that played out throughout the surprisingly small rooms. The visit was made slightly more surreal by the presence of a primary school group who, clearly as some sort of exercise, had memorised short presentations to give in each room of the house. We kept awkwardly bumping into them and listened to their facts and information. It was interesting and they all did very well. It was the sort of thing that we never got to do at school. More's the pity. Even though it would have been very nerve-wracking at that age, it would certainly have been a fun and interesting experience. One of them did tell me to my face that I 'look like I like Shakespeare', whatever that means. I guess I'll take it. With that, our Shakespeare homage was complete. We emerged back on the high street. I, for one, felt enlightened but also amazed and very privileged to have been able to visit places so closely linked to one of my absolute idols. It was time now, for the second part of our visit. Food was calling, and there were many pubs calling our name. I was intrigued to find out how many of Stratford's pubs leaned into the Shakespeare connection and to what extent they would do so. There would be only one way to find out. 

After a brief perusal in the independent shops opposite Shakespeare's Birthplace we endeavoured to begin our pub itinerary in earnest. Heading up Henley Street, we took a right onto Windsor Street. We could already see our first pub stop of the day a short distance away. Located adjacent to a traffic island at the junction of Guild Street and Birmingham Road, our Stratford pub survey would begin at The One Elm.

This large cream building was built in 1835 when it was known as The One Elm Inn. The name is thought to derive from a single elm tree that stood a short distance down Birmingham Road, where it begins to change direction. This tree marked the boundary of the local borough and lent its name to the pub as well as a nearby bridge and canal wharf. Over the years, the pub has had other names, being known as The Recession in 1992 and as Bar Humbug in 2003. Later that year, it was acquired by the current owners, Peach Pubs, who reverted back to the original name. Inside, the pub is surprisingly long and narrow. The front entrance leads through into a bar area, with the serving space running down one side. A smaller room to the right of the entrance features a real fire and wooden furniture, along with a furnished bench around the fireplace. Well-appointed tables and chairs provide seating in the bar area, alongside high stools, poser tables and some softer armchairs. Further on is another seating area with soft furnishings and beyond this is a restaurant space. A garden can be found to the rear, with a glass conservatory area providing access. The decor is modern and bright with bare wood floors, colourful feature walls, spotlights and mirrors. A bookcase can be found in the front bar area and there are also framed Private Eye covers on display. A small outside drinking area, with parasols, can be found to the front of the pub. In short, it's a bright and welcoming place in which to begin our expedition. Brightening the day even further is a bank of 4 handpulls on the bar. At the time of our visit, 3 of these were in use, offering the choice of Purity Pure UBU, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker and Fuller's London Pride. Thirsty after our earlier exertions, and with it being the first pub of the day, I thought I'd start things off with a pint of Boltmaker. Amy opted for the arguably more refreshing option of a Diet Coke and we had a quick scan of the food menu before ordering a portion of halloumi fries and a portion of gochujang chicken wings to tide us over and ease our hunger pangs. All-in-all, our round came to £24.85, which is a touch on the pricey side but probably about right for the area. The Boltmaker was very nice indeed and it was nice to see it prioritised over the almost ubiquitous Landlord. The food was delicious and definitely hit the spot. As far as opening pubs go, this had been a great place to start. 

As mentioned earlier, the route we had planned would effectively take us a loop around the town. To that end, our next stop wasn't very far away at all. Leaving our empty glasses behind, we turned left out of the One Elm and continued down Guild Street, crossing the road shortly after. Pub number 2 was in our sights almost instantly. Next up was The Phoenix.

Situated on the junction of Guild Street and Union Street, The Phoenix is a Grade II listed Georgian building, believed to date from 1847. Now independently operated, the pub was once nationalised after a former owner, Septimus Lowe, was killed in an earthquake in South America, leaving no living descendants to carry on the ownership, and the Attorney General at the time ruled that ownership should pass to the Crown. Nowadays though, it's a very different story. Nothing quite prepared us for the quirkiness of the aesthetic in here, as will soon become clear. The entrance leads into an open plan bar area, with the servery itself to the left. The interior is divided up into various different rooms through the use of internal pillars and glass partitions. Bare wood floors and white washed ceilings are matched with a combination of upholstered bench seating, high stools and wooden tables. An area to the rear features fake greenery hanging from the ceiling and an upholstered banquette, as well as access to a rear garden. There is also a partially-shaded roof terrace. It's in the additional details that this place shines though. Multiple TVs can be found throughout but these are not for sport. Rather, they accommodate various games consoles, all free to use for customers. There's an N64, an XBOX and a NES system amongst others. A room to one side, with the glass partition, also has a TV and corresponding dummy instruments set up to enable customers to play Rock Band. An open pizza kitchen sits next to the bar and a corridor leads to the toilets. Unusual artwork and touches of neon complete the look. We definitely weren't expecting this! To top things off, the bar hosts a pair of hand pumps. One of these is occupied by a cider, in this case Unless you Think from Ascension. The other hosts a beer which on this occasion was North Cotswold Shagweaver. There is also a decent range of craft beers, including guests. I went for a half of the Shagweaver whilst Amy went for a half of In Dreams from Polly's Brew Co. This totalled £7.15 and we took our drinks to a table at the far side of the room to marvel at our environment, somewhat lessened by a leak from the nearby ceiling, caused by the rather incessant rain that the UK has had this year. Still it didn't dampen our spirits or our opinion of this place. Retro games and good beer? A match made in heaven. The Shagweaver is a decent drop. At 4.5%, this is a refreshing golden ale brewed with New Zealand hops. A hoppy, grapefruit aroma gives way to flavours of honey and citrus. It's very moreish. Amy's beer, from the ever reliable Polly's, was also a belter. As is this pub. It's definitely for the best that I didn't start to play one of the old consoles. We'd have got nothing else done all day. The Phoenix was a very pleasant surprise from start to finish.

On we went! Leaving The Phoenix, we turned right and continued down Guild Street until we reached a three-way road junction. Following this around to a slight right, we crossed over at the nearby pedestrian crossing and crossed over the nearby bridge. We were now on the aptly named Bridge Foot, where you will find the Pen & Parchment. 

This Grade II listed 17th century building is located by the canal and a short distance from the River Avon. Originally it was used a boat builders yard before it became a pub known as the Unicorn and later the Navigation. Now named as a tribute to Shakespeare himself, it is a hotel and pub/restaurant operated by Greene King as part of the Old English Inns arm of their considerable portfolio. The rustic, period charm continues inside. Through the main entrance, you will find a central bar, with wooden furniture throughout. A cosier area towards the rear is separated by a glass partition and accessed down a central corridor. A couple of smaller, quieter areas are tucked away around corners. Toilets are to the rear of the building, where you will also find the hotel reception. An abundance of bare brick and oak beams add to the ambience. A wooden pillar in the centre of the pub was taken from a ship captained by Admiral Nelson. It's clear that the pub has changed very little throughout the centuries and it's history and charm are very much on show. This being a Greene King pub, the bar is stocked with many of their own products. A bank of 4 handpulls is present, offering beers from their own range plus a guest. Here, the choices were North Cotswold Winter Solstice, Hardy's & Hanson's Rock On, Greene King Abbot Ale and Greene King IPA. I wasn't quite ready for another North Cotswold beer just yet so instead I went for the Rock On, with Amy opting for Hazy Day from the keg range. A half of each cost £6.25. We retreated into a quieter area towards the rear. This is a very atmospheric place and the age of the building speaks for itself. One can only imagine what spending the night here would be like. Shakespeare himself is rumoured to have stayed here and the pub is allegedly haunted, though what form this haunting takes is seemingly unclear. This was the first pub of the day that truly felt as if we were back in Shakespeare's time, with the history seeping from the very stones. It's a shame then, that the beer wasn't the best. Rock On is a 4.3% bitter which, on paper should be malty and slightly sweet. On this occasion though, it was just a bit bland with a bit of an odd aftertaste. It was drinkable and I did finish it but I've definitely had better. 

We hoped for similar atmosphere, if not better beer, at our next stop. Crossing back over the bridge from whence we came, we found ourselves on Bridge Street with The Encore awaiting us. 

Dating from the 16th century, the pub that is now The Encore has previously been known as both The Bear and The Anchor and adopted its current name in the 1970s. The name itself is a reference to the nearby Royal Shakespeare Theatre. The pub is Grade II listed and operates as a stylish, modern restaurant, though drinkers are also made welcome. Inside, a large, central island bar serves two rooms, with an opened up archway between them. To the left, a tiled area features tables and chairs, alongside stools perched at the bar. To the right, an area of bare wood flooring offers more of the same but in a slightly smaller space. A staircase to the rear leads up to the toilets. Subtle lighting from stylish lamps illuminates the original beams on the ceiling and creates a welcoming atmosphere. Original wooden pillars have been incorporated into the layout and are still visible despite the contemporary decor. Vaulted ceilings give the impression of an almost barn-like space but the pub still manages to feel cosy. The smart bar features a black marble countertop. On said bar, a bank of 3 handpulls can be found. At the time of our visit, these were all advertising St. Austell Tribute so it was to be a half of that for me whilst Amy contented herself with a lime and soda, at the total cost of £5.60. We had been recommended this place as a potential food stop by the manager at our hotel but we weren't ready for more food yet so it would just be a drink here. The Tribute was in good condition. Indeed, this is a comfortable and welcoming place to enjoy a drink and the food comes highly recommended. In general, it's definitely more of a spot for dining but it's a cracking old building with a good blend of modern and original features. There's just enough of the original structure on show to hint at the age and heritage. Not one for the beer connoisseur but worth a visit all the same. 

The next stage of our jaunt would see us almost retracing our steps to one of our earlier stops. Leaving The Encore, we turned right and continued down the road known as Waterside. Not only did this take us parallel to the canal but it also took us past the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, home of the eponymous acting company. A short walk on from the theatre, we would find our next stop, the first of 3 pubs in Stratford that feature in the 2026 Good Beer Guide. First up the Dirty Duck.

What is now a pub was originally three separate buildings, dating from the 15th century. One of these became a pub in 1738, with a neighbouring house integrated into the property in 1866. In 1937, the pub was extended into the third property, giving it the layout it retains today. Whilst known locally as the Dirty Duck, the pub's official name is the Black Swan, an epithet it has held since at least 1776. The Dirty Duck became a much-used nickname for the pub, so much so that it is officially licensed under both names, the only pub in the UK to have this arrangement. How the Dirty Duck became known as such is unclear. One prevailing theory, advanced by the pub itself, is that the name was coined by American GIs who were stationed across the river, opposite the pub, during WWII. An alternative solution is that the pub given the nickname by actors from the nearby theatre who have called this their  local for many years and still do to this day. Whatever the origins of the name, we were very much looking forward to venturing inside. Climbing the steps to the entrance brings you through into the bar space. The servery serves this area as well as areas to both sides. To the left of the entrance, seating wraps around the interior, culminating in a slightly more open plan dining space to the rear. To the right, a door leads through to the Actors Bar, a smaller area with an open fire, a mix of seating in both wooden and furnished form and a bay window looking out to the river. The walls of this area are a shrine to actors, living and sadly departed, all of whom have performed at the theatre. Framed photos, some of them signed, dominate this area. The decor throughout is an ode to the pub's age. Wooden beams and pillars and white washed ceilings create a certain atmosphere of comfort but, in association with the various photos, both of actors and also of the town and local area, one of reverence. We were immediately struck by the weight of theatrical history that permeates the air here. This already felt like just our sort of pub. We hadn't even looked at the beer options yet! And speaking of which, this is another Greene King premises under the Old English Inns umbrella. The 5 handpulls were offering a mix of their own range and some alternatives. One of the lines was for Lilley's Select cider but the beer choices were Greene King Fireside, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Greene King Abbot and the house beer, Dirty Duck Bitter. On this occasion, I went for a half of the Fireside with Amy opting for a half of Hazy Day. All told, it came to £6.00. We couldn't resist soaking up the atmosphere in the Actors Bar and attempt to identify as many actors as we could from the photos. This really was a highlight amongst the pubs we visited. Something about visiting a pub frequented by Shakespearian actors, a stone's throw from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, in Shakespeare's home town left a huge impression. The beer was in good nick too. Fireside (4.5%) is a ruby ale with lemon and grapefruit characters and a lovely, mellowing sweetness underneath. It's an ale brewed to be drunk on cold and gloomy days such as this, and in pubs just like this one. The Dirty Duck is a real gem and it's easily a place worth returning to. It seems that we're not the only ones. A ghostly American airman is also alleged to frequent the pub. He has been seen on numerous occasions, propping up the bar with a glass of beer in hand. On one occasion, he appeared so solid that a member of staff attempted to engage him in conversation when he suddenly vanished. You can't really blame him for wanting to come back here. We spent some time here, just enjoying the pub and making friends with a lovely Dalmatian puppy on a nearby stool. The best pubs have an atmosphere that you can't really describe and this is just one such pub. 

We were reluctant to leave the Dirty Duck but there was much more exploring to do. We turned right and continued down Waterside, admiring the antique gas lamps that line the pavement, each one donated by a different town or city around the country. We were heading in the direction of Holy Trinity Church but this time we would bypass it. Turning onto College Street, we followed this to the end and then turned right onto College Lane, with the church at our backs. We shortly after took another right, this time onto Bull Street, where we would be visiting its namesake pub, The Bull.

Tucked away in the back streets of the Old Town, this 2026 Good Beer Guide listed venue has been a pub for many years and still retains many of its original features. At various times throughout its history, it has been known as the West End but reverted to its old name after being taken over in 2020. It was subsequently purchased again in 2023, this time by Everards, who continue to operate it and oversaw a full refurbishment in October of 2024. Inside, a large bar serves a relatively large open-plan drinking and dining space. A further area of seating can be found in an adjacent area. To the rear, several raised booths line the wall and there is also access to a rear garden. The overall decor is modern and contemporary in style but fairly minimalist in execution. Bare wood floors are complemented by festoon lighting, wooden panelling and soft furnishings. Mirrors, photos and portraits occupy much of the wall space and there are TVs available for watching sport. 5 handpulls take up space on the bar, with the majority of the offerings from Everards, as you would expect. On the day our options were Titanic First Class, Everards Tighthead, Everards Tiger and Everards Old Original, with the remaining pump offering Weston's Rosie's Pig cider. I don't get to enjoy Old Original as much as I would like so there was really only one option for me here. A half, combined with a half of Outlaw from the brewery's keg range, set us back £5.20. We decided to enjoy our drinks in a booth and enjoy them we very much did. For those who may be unfamiliar, Old Original (5.2%) is a ruby ale with notes of sherry on the nose and a rich and fruity taste. It's an absolutely delicious beer and a perfect winter warmer. I need to seek it out more often in our neck of the woods. The Bull is another example of a great pub given a new lease of life by Everards. It's homely and probably benefits from being a bit further out from the centre of town. It's an oasis of good beer at this end of Stratford. 

We'd reached the halfway point of our pub exploration now. The next leg would take us back into the town centre proper and would once again see us passing some locations from earlier in the day. Leaving The Bull, we turned right and continued to the end of Bull Street. A short right and then an immediate left took us onto Church Street. We would now follow this as it became Chapel Street before finally becoming High Street. Now nestled in the heart of the town, our attentions turned to the Garrick.

Believed to be one of the oldest buildings in the town, and potentially the oldest pub, this half-timbered Elizabethan structure is believed to date back to 1596, although some parts are believed to be even older, perhaps dating to the 14th century. An inn has existed here since 1718, although there was an older, medieval inn on the same site. The property is Grade II* listed and has previously been known as both the Greyhound and the Reindeer. Its current name commemorates the actor David Garrick who organised the first Shakespeare's Birthday celebration in 1795. A outbreak of plague that struck the town in 1564 is believed to have originated here after Oliver Gunn, a weaver's apprentice, died of the disease. Restoration of the property began in 1912 with the replacement of a brick front that was added in 1800. Further restoration took place in 2005. Internally, the pub is long and narrow with a couple of rooms leading off of a central corridor. The front bar is very small and is potentially the smallest in town. The bar itself serves to two sides with the rear side being slightly larger. Throughout, the emphasis is very much on wooden beams, bare floors and traditional furniture, although is also a curved banquette in the back bar. The ceilings are whitewashed and the doorways and corridors are narrow and slightly uneven. This place has the higgledy-piggledy charm that befits a building of considerable age. A brass plaque commemorates a 30 foot well that is now covered. The bar here also features handpulls, 5 in total, although only 2 of these were in use when we were there, offering a choice between Shakesbeer, the house beer, or North Cotswold Hung, Drawn 'n' Portered. For the name alone, I had to go with the North Cotswold tipple. Amy went for Hazy Day. A half of each, accompanied by two bags of crisps, set us back £10.10. We made our way into back room, with its curved bench, and grabbed a table. As with a lot of pubs throughout the day, the pub was relatively quiet. It was a Thursday evening in February after all. The beer from North Cotswold was great. Hung, Drawn 'n' Portered (5.0%) is, perhaps unsurprisingly, a porter. Dark treacle in colour, it boasts hop notes and a malty finish. It's exactly the sort of beer you'd associate with a pub like this. And what a pub. It has an atmosphere all of its own, brimming with olde worlde charm, with just a hint of menace bubbling under the surface. Perhaps that's not surprising given the pub's history and reputation. The Garrick is widely regarded as the most haunted pub in Stratford. No less than 5 spirits are thought to reside here. A woman in black has been seen walking up and down the stairs or sitting by the fireplace. She is thought to be the wife of a former landlord who hanged himself. A man wearing a cloak and hat, thought to be a highwayman killed by a rival gang, has been sighted in the cellar where he is believed to have hidden some loot. The presence of a young boy, named Tom, who tragically died in a fire after becoming trapped has been felt holding people's hands in the area where he perished. His name is often heard being called by a disembodied female voice, alleged to belong to a woman named Alice. Her heart-breaking cries are most commonly heard in the cellar. Other strange activity in the building includes unknown footsteps and glasses mysteriously breaking, and is alleged to be the work of the unfortunate weaver's apprentice who succumbed to the plague. Clearly this part of Stratford is rife with unquiet spirits. Our brief stay went undisturbed though and soon we were on to the next. 

Our next stop was not much further away. Departing the Garrick we turned right and then right again onto Ely Street. Reaching the end, we took another right and then right again onto Rother Street, where our next location was waiting for us. Next up, the Coach House.

This Grade II listed, 16th century building was originally a private house before becoming a pub. A series of renovations have uncovered an increasing number of the original features, which have been incorporated into the current layout. Upon entry, the bar is directly opposite the door. It is U-shaped and serves an open-plan interior. The furniture is traditional scrubbed wooden tables and chairs and the flooring is a mixture of bare wood and tiles. Exposed brickwork and original beams have been retained and help to break up the layout and make the whole space feel more compact. Fake flowers, subtle lighting and neon lights add a unique flavour to proceedings and there is a decent sized garden to the rear, with a covered smoking shelter. The pub is owned and operated by Davenports brewery, which means that their products occupy the majority of the 3 handpulls, although guest beers often feature. In this case, Butcombe Original filled the guest spot whilst the other two pumps featured Davenports Gold and C.B. respectively. I was completely unfamiliar with Davenports so opted for a half of the C.B. Amy chose a half of Alpacalypse from amongst the keg choices, we parted with £5.60, and then we took a seat at a table adjacent to the beer garden. It soon became clear that a couple sat next to us may have been under the influence of something other than alcohol, at least judging from their slightly dazed expressions, and we enjoyed the sight of an older couple repeatedly moving tables until the husband could have the best view of the televised darts. The Coach House is another older property that has been given a modern spruce-up but without losing any of its character. The beer is decent too. Davenports are based in Smethwick and C.B. (4.2%) is billed as an amber ale. It has a soothing and mellow aroma, which gives way to a sweet and malty finish. It's something different from a brewery that was new to me. Finding new beers and breweries is always good!

Our next location would be something altogether different from the places we'd visited so far. Conveniently for our purposes, it is located virtually opposite the Coach House. On now to Stratford's very own craft beer bar, the excellently named Ya Bard.

This rather unassuming frontage is a Tudor-framed 16th century building that was formerly a house and is now Grade II listed. Look closely though, for the A-board shall guide you to a world of wonder. Enter through the door and you have entered Ya Bard, which opened in October 2020 and is operated by a couple of locals. The first room is reminiscent of someone's living room. A short hallway opens out into a room with high stools, drinking ledges and a converted barrel table, all lit by fairy lights around a bay window that looks out onto the street. A middle room offers a chest of drawers repurposed as a table and served by stools. Further seating is to be found upstairs. It's in the rear room where the action is however. A small bar occupies one side of the room, with 7 keg lines pouring from the back wall. Opposite this are a number of fridges, stocked with delicious cans and bottles to drink in or take away. Seating is minimal, although there are more stools around the perimeter, handily served by drinking ledges. A small garden is accessed through doors to the rear. Lighting is subdued and conversation is allowed to flow. Dogs are also welcome throughout. For the most part it's standing room only. This is somewhere that I'd been eager to visit since I first learned of its existence and I'm glad that we found it. You could easily miss it if you weren't looking for it. As you'd likely expect from this sort of venue, there is no cask here but that's not a problem when there's such a wealth of kegged goodies available. One of the lines featured a cider, Hogan's Libertine but the 6 beer options ran thus: Track On & On, Glasshouse Acres, Polly's Danish Pastry Imperial Stout, Verdant Putty, Polly's Fruits of the Forest Smoothie Sour and Kernel Mosaic Simcoe. Amy was desperate to try Putty, this year's version of Verdant's much-celebrated annual release. I fancied giving the Kernel a go. Two thirds for me and a half for Amy came to £11.75, a not unreasonable sum given our choices. We enjoyed our beers in between surveying the fridges and befriending Murphy, a lovely spaniel who was also enjoying an evening out. Our beers were excellent. Kernel's Mosaic Simcoe (5.3%) gives equal parts fruity and floral notes with hints of apricot, coconut and stone fruit. It's a thoroughly gorgeous beer and this is a great place. It's nice to see a more modern bar concept doing well amongst more traditional venues in a town that's not necessarily associated with the trappings of modernity. We will definitely be coming here again!

As much as it pained us to leave Ya Bard, we still had more work to do. Thankfully, our last trio of venues were very close together so it wouldn't take us long to complete our task. The first of these locations lies just across the Market Place at the White Swan Hotel.

Arguably one of Stratford's most impressive and imposing buildings, the White Swan Hotel occupies a building that was once a house and dates in part to 1450. It was used as an inn as early as 1560, when it was owned by Robert Perrott, who was a brewer, with his brother William acting as landlord. During this period it was known as the 'King's House' or Hall. Robert's granddaughter Susanna married Richard Tyler, a young officer who was a boyhood friend of William Shakespeare so it is entirely possible that Shakespeare himself drank here. The marriage took place in 1588. A wall painting commemorating the story of Tobias and the Angel, commissioned by William Perrott, is displayed in the hotel today after being discovered during renovations in 1927. The painting is believed to date from 1560 and was painted in honour of William's wife. William and his entire family perished in the plague outbreak of 1564. Inside, this is another superb building, replete with original features. A short entrance corridor leads through into a multi-roomed layout, broken by partition walls and wooden pillars. Flagstone floors and original exposed beams reflect the building's history. Several smaller rooms all feature standard wooden furniture and low ceilings. A more intimate dining area is opposite the bar, which sits roughly central to the floorplan. Shakespeare quotes and references can be found throughout the pub. The White Swan Hotel is operated by Fuller's (since 2011), the first of two such premises in close proximity, which should provide a clue as to the beer offerings. 5 handpulls occupy the bar with beers from their excellent range. Available on the day were Fuller's London Pride, which was doubled up, alongside Dark Star Hophead, Fuller's Grand Slam and Fuller's ESB. A half of Pride for me and a half of Deya's Steady Rolling Man for Amy came to £7.30. We took a seat at a table near one of the windows. The Pride was in quality condition, as you'd expect it to be in a home pub. This place is everything I like about Fuller's pubs. An historic building that has been maintained and turned into a haven of good beer and good food, without diluting the considerable history of the property. As the quote from Henry V goes, 'I would give all my home for a pot of ale and safety. I can see what he was getting at. 

The grandeur of the White Swan was soon behind us and we had another short walk to our penultimate stop. Just over the road is the second Fuller's pub of the evening, The Old Thatch Tavern. 

On the corner of Rother Street and Greenhill Street, the Old Thatch Tavern is believed to be the second oldest pub in Stratford, although it is often claimed to be the oldest. A building on the site in 1470 became the town's brewery but was also a pub. The current building, the only one with a thatched roof in the town centre (hence the name), was built in the early 16th century and subsequently altered in the early 19th. It has been licensed as a pub in its current form since 1623. As well as the exterior, this place shares several other similarities with its sister venue across the road. Once again, original beams are heavily in evidence, alongside whitewashed walls and both flagstone and bare wood floors. Furniture is simple and non-descript. Mirrors, paintings and old tools decorate some of the wall space, whilst some of the areas are illuminated with fairy lights. This is yet another pub with a proper olde worlde feel about it. The bar is slightly opposite the door, with some seating adjacent. A separate room with further seating lies through an archway. Additional seating and access to the garden can be found to the rear of the structure. Fuller's have owned the pub since March 2012 which should again leave little to the imagination as regards the beer range. 3 of the 4 handpulls were in use when we arrived here, with a choice between Fuller's London Pride, Gale's HSB and Dark Star Hophead. This time I went for the HSB with Amy repeating on Steady Rolling Man. A half of each totalled £6.70. We made our way into the quieter room to the side. You really can't beat pubs like this for the atmosphere. There's something ethereal and liminal about these kinds of pubs, almost like you could close your eyes at any moment and be transported back hundreds of years. The beer is much better now though. In particular, the HSB here was very good indeed. It's another beer that I need to properly reacquaint myself with but it's always a good one whenever I've had it. If nostalgia for a bygone time is what you're after, there's more than just longing in the ether. This is another of Stratford's pubs with a suitably spooky tale or two. The most prominent story related to the site is that of Joseph Pinfield. On Christmas Day 1795, he was set upon by a group of Irish soldiers, for reasons that don't appear to have survived in the retelling. After a chase through the streets of the town, Joseph was caught as he reached the door of this very pub, where he was subsequently brutally slain. Since then, strange activity has been reported. Phantom footsteps are heard throughout the pub, glasses shatter for no reason and, on quieter evenings, strange whispers have been heard and fleeting shadows seen. Joseph is not alone in his alleged post-mortem wanderings however. George Birch, a former landlord, is said to haunt the upstairs rooms, where he likes to make loud noises and move furniture. He left this mortal coil in 1810 after falling down the stairs whilst drunk. Another wraith is that of a woman named Mary, murdered by her husband, whose screaming and crying are heard in the downstairs areas. Once again, our stay went unmolested but there certainly is an eerie atmosphere that suggests something could be lurking just out of sight. The Old Thatch is the epitome of a tavern that has remained relatively untouched by time. Except as far as prices are concerned. 

Back in the land of the living and we had one destination left. This would be our final stop on our pub tour of Stratford-upon-Avon. Had we saved the best for last? Leaving the Old Thatch, we turned left and continued up Greenhill Street. A few yards further down the road, we spotted our last stop opposite. Our day would conclude at The Stratford Alehouse.

This Good Beer Guide 2026 listed micropub is a family-run venue with a big local reputation for real ale, so much so that it is a previous winner of the local CAMRA branch Pub of the Year. The pub opened on Christmas Eve 2013, as the first micropub in the branch area and has subsequently gone from strength to strength and accumulated numerous awards along the way. A single room is served by a small bar at one end. A number of high tables and chairs provide seating. The walls are adorned with pump clips, beer memorabilia, photos, and memorials to regulars. In keeping with the micropub aesthetic there are no gaming machines or TVs but there is music, played on vinyl records. There is a fridge with bottles and cans for drinking in or taking out. Unusually, the toilets are located behind the bar in a small alcove. Beer is obviously the order of the day here. 4 are available, all served on gravity directly from the cask. Upon entering, we were greeted by a regular, who directed us to the beer board and instructed us that the landlord finds it easier if customers order by beer number instead of name. Fair enough. A quartet of options were to be perused over: Bewdley William Mucklow's Dark Mild, Beartown Best Bitter, Froth Blowers Hornswoggle and Byatt's Gold. I went for a half of the Hornswoggle and Amy selected a can of Tiny Rebel's Clwb Tropica from the fridge, at a total cost of £6.90. We acquired the table closest to the bar at which to enjoy our beverages. And enjoy them we did. I've had Hornswoggle in the past and it's a cracking beer. I've previously had it on handpull so being able to try it served via gravity was a delightful treat. It went down very easily. The Stratford Alehouse is a great example of the micropub model. No bells and whistles, just good beer served with good, honest service that ensures everyone is welcome. There's something for everyone here, regular or otherwise. I heartily recommend a visit. 

And so, we were done. Final beers supped, we made our way out into the cold and damp February night, and wandered the short distance back to our hotel, where our day's festivities had begun so many hours earlier. The remaining time was spent relaxing and sleeping before a rousing breakfast the following day and a relatively routine drive home. There was much to unpack from our trip to Stratford. First and foremost, it's a lovely town. Compact and quiet and with much to occupy the curious visitor. My heart was full. My inner Shakespeare nerd was thoroughly sated by the experience of visiting his hometown. There's another level to it though. This wasn't just about the Shakespeare that we know. This was about imagining the Shakespeare that we don't, walking the streets he walked, perhaps even drinking in the pubs that he may well have drunk in. The pubs that no doubt fuelled his words, and the obsessions and darker desires that are contained therein. Inspiration in its purest, most primal form. Stratford may be forever associated with its most famous son but there's so much to it. The pubs are fantastic. Not only do they embrace the obvious connections but they also stand above and aside from them. The story of Shakespeare is the story of Stratford and the story of Stratford is ingrained in its pubs. As I write these words, the sun is beaming through. The rain has abated. There is a warmth in the air. Spring is on the horizon and the promise of longer days, spent in many a pub will soon be upon us. I can't wait. The darkness of Winter will soon give way to the glory days of Spring and Summer. There is really only one way to finish this entry and that's by handing you over to the man himself:

We are such stuff

As dreams are made on; 

and our little life

Is rounded with a sleep

-- The Tempest, Act 4, Scene 1

Pub of the Day: The Dirty Duck. Historic, atmospheric and a shrine to acting legends

Honourable mention: The Old Thatch Tavern. Eerie yet welcoming. Definitely worth a visit.

Beer of the Day: Everards Old Original. Still a cracking beer.

Biggest surprise: The Phoenix. I was not expecting retro games consoles.