Welcome all! We're well into March, even if it certainly doesn't feel like it, and Spring will hopefully be in the air very soon. In the meantime, even our ridiculous British weather hasn't kept me down. Yesterday, for my first solo trip of the year, I found myself back in Staffordshire, investigating a town that, though it had been on the list for some time, I didn't know a massive amount about. I knew that the beer scene had apparently improved significantly in recent years and so it seemed pertinent to put this opinion to the test. The destination: Tamworth. Prior to my visit, the only landmarks I associated with the town were it's Norman castle, and indoor dry ski-slope, The Snowdome. Would there be other, more beer-oriented locations, to add to that list?
Tamworth is a market town and borough in Staffordshire, 14 miles (23 km) north-east of Birmingham. The town borders North Warwickshire to the east and north, Lichfield to the north, south-west and west. The town takes its name from the River Tame, which flows through it. The population of Tamworth borough (2021) was 78,646. The wider urban area had a population of 81,964.
Tamworth was the principal centre of royal power of the Anglo-Saxon Kingdom of Mercia during the 8th and 9th centuries. It hosts a simple but elevated 12th century castle, a well-preserved medieval church (the Church of St Editha) and a Moat House. Tamworth was historically divided between Warwickshire and Staffordshire until 1889, when the town was placed entirely in Staffordshire.
The town's industries include logistics, engineering, clothing, brick, tile and paper manufacture. Until 2001 one of its factories was Reliant, which produced the Reliant Robin three-wheeler car and the Reliant Scimitar sports car.
The Snowdome, a prototype real-snow indoor ski slope is in Tamworth and 1.7 miles (2.7 km) south is Drayton Manor Theme Park and one of the many marinas serving the Coventry Canal and Birmingham and Fazeley Canal which combine south of the town.
When the Romans arrived in Britain, (43–409 CE) the Trent Valley was home to the British Coritani tribe. Evidence of Roman activity in the area of Tamworth consists of fragments of Roman building materials found near Bolebridge Street. Tamworth was near the Roman road, Watling Street and a few miles from the Roman town of Letocetum.
Following the end of Roman rule, the area around the Tame valley was occupied by Anglo-Saxons from northern Germany and Jutland. Stephen Pollington states that the settlers that reached Tamworth were Angles, who left their homelands after rising sea levels flooded much of the land. Britain offered an attractive option as its landscape was similar to their homelands, but was more fertile and had a more moderate climate. The Angles arrived from the north, navigating inland via the River Humber, River Trent and the River Tame.
The settlers established themselves in "an open meadow by the Tame" which they called "Tomworðig". Nearby they established an "enclosed estate" called "Tomtun" – Tame-town – fortified with a palisade wall. These people called themselves the "Tomsaete": Tame-settlers. Tomtun was initially "not much more than a fortified manor". The settlement straddled the River Anker and contained a "large hall for public gatherings" as well as individual homes and agricultural buildings such as stables and granaries. The Lords of Tame-Settlers quickly became wealthy and Tamworth was thus able to be fortified further.
The Tomsaete were a military tribe; however, soldiers eventually reached an age where they retired from military duty and were then allotted parcels of land to farm, manage and defend. Fertile lands surrounding the rivers were allotted first, then the hill lands; this land spreading further and further, spreading the power and influence of the tribes. The Tomsaete were one of countless tribes "all vying for power and influence", however the Lords of the Tomsaete came to control and to "dominate" the area known as English Midlands. The tribes initially ruled through unions and alliances of leading families and there is evidence of contact with families across England and also back in the Anglo-Saxon homelands. However, this "warlord" form of government developed and the Tomsaete's lands became a Kingdom with a single leader.
The Tomsaete lived in the heartland of what by the late 6th century had become the Kingdom of Mercia, the largest of the kingdoms in what is now England. Under King Penda in the 7th century, it became the most powerful. The King was not static and would not have a single residence; instead he travelled round his territories "to be seen by his people, to give legal judgments, to reward loyalty and to try offenders". Tamworth was likely a stopping place on the royal circuit, becoming a royal vill from the seventh century, with an early minster church and river crossing. It was fortified as a burh in the late 8th century, with an earthen rampart and timber palisade surrounded by a ditch.
By the end of the 8th century it had been established by King Offa of Mercia (757–796) as the stable centre of royal power for his expanding political ambitions – more like a capital than had previously been seen anywhere in Anglo-Saxon England. One of the earliest surviving written records mentioning Tamworth dates from Offa's reign; a grant of land to monks at Worcester dating from 781, signed by Offa, King of Mercia, addressed from his royal palace at Tamworthie. Offa built what was described as a Royal palace at Tamworth, however this was almost certainly a timber and thatch construction (as were most buildings in Anglo-Saxon England) which left little physical trace, and so the location of Offa's palace has never been identified, although excavations north of Bolebridge Street in 1968 revealed what appeared to be the outline of a large Saxon building.
Between 790 and 850 Tamworth was the main location for the signature of Mercian royal charters. In 868 the Great Heathen Army invaded England and in 874 they drove out King Burgred, who fled to Rome. Tamworth was then a frontier town between Viking ruled east Mercia and Anglo-Saxon ruled west Mercia until 913, when Æthelflæd, Lady of the Mercians, made Tamworth her capital, and re-fortified the town against Viking attacks. Æthelflæd led a successful military campaign to win back territory from the Danes, driving them back to their stronghold at Derby which was then captured. She died at Tamworth on 6 June 918.
During the reign of Æthelstan (924-939) the Kingdom enjoyed a period of relative peace and prosperity. In Tamworth church in 926, a sister of King Æthelstan, perhaps Saint Edith of Polesworth, was married to Sitric Cáech, the squint-eyed Norse King of York and Dublin. It was during this period that a mint was established at Tamworth producing silver coins, many stamped with the name of a local moneyer called Manna. Many coins produced in Tamworth during this period have appeared in Scandinavian museums, as much of it was used to pay Danegeld, a tribute paid in an attempt to buy off invading Vikings. This however proved fruitless, as following Æthelstan's death in 939, Tamworth was again plundered and devastated by Viking invaders led by Sitric's son Olaf (later called Amlaíb Cuarán). It was soon recovered and rebuilt by Æthelstan's, successors, but Tamworth never regained its pre-eminence as a Royal centre.
In the early 10th century the new shires of Staffordshire and Warwickshire were created, and Tamworth was divided between them, with the county border running through the town centre along the streets of Gungate, Church Street, Silver Street and Holloway, with the castle on the Warwickshire side of the border. The reason for this division was likely so that the town would be divided between the two separately administered Hundreds of Offlow and Hemlingford to ensure that sufficient manpower would be available to man the town's defences.
Following the Norman conquest of England in the 11th century, the Normans built a large motte and bailey castle, the forerunner of the present Tamworth Castle, partly on the site of the Saxon fort which still stands to this day. Unusually Tamworth wasn't mentioned in the Domesday Book; this may have been due to its division between two counties confusing the surveyors.
From around 1093, the Marmion family became lords of the manor, and eight generations of Marmions inhabited Tamworth Castle until 1294. It was the Marmions who were largely responsible for building the present sandstone fort at Tamworth Castle, replacing the original wooden Norman structure. During the period of The Anarchy in the 12th century, Robert Marmion supported King Steven in his fight with Empress Matilda. In the ensuing struggle, Tamworth Castle was taken and occupied by the forces of Matilda, but was returned to the Marmions when Steven finally prevailed in the war. In 1215 King John threatened to have Tamworth Castle destroyed, in revenge for the 3rd Baron Marmion's support for the baronial revolt against the King. However, this threat was not carried out.
In the Middle Ages Tamworth was a small market town. However, the king gave it charters in 1319. In 1337 Tamworth was granted the right to hold two annual fairs. In the Middle Ages fairs were like markets but they were held only once a year and they attracted buyers and sellers from great distances. In 1345 Tamworth suffered a disastrous fire, and much of the town burned. This was followed by the Black Death which arrived in England from 1348, which reduced the population by at least a third. However, the town eventually recovered from these disasters.
Queen Elizabeth I granted Tamworth another charter in 1560 confirming the town's existing rights and privileges, and incorporating it as a unified borough with a single municipal corporation. Prior to this there had been separate corporations for the Warwickshire and Staffordshire sides of the town. The charted enabled Tamworth to elect a representative to Parliament. Another charter was granted in 1588, further consolidating the town's rights of self-government.
Tamworth suffered from outbreaks of plague in 1563, 1579, 1606, and 1626. Many died but each time the population recovered.
James I, the first Stuart king of England, visited Tamworth on three occasions, with his first visit in 1619, and was accommodated by Sir John Ferrers at Tamworth Castle. The king was accompanied by Prince Charles (the future king Charles I), who was entertained by William Comberford at the Moat House.
During the English Civil War from 1642, Tamworth Castle was initially garrisoned for the Royalists under William Comberford, however in June 1643 it was captured by a detachment of Parliamentarian forces under the command of William Purefoy after a short two-day siege, and remained in Parliamentarian hands for the remainder of the conflict, despite unsuccessful attempts by Royalists who controlled nearby Lichfield to recapture it. In 1646, a large Parliamentarian force, backed by soldiers from Tamworth captured Lichfield after a four-month siege. After the conflict was over, the castle was again threatened with destruction, when an order was issued for it to be destroyed, but again this was not carried out.
Tamworth continued to grow and remained one of the most populous towns in the Midlands by 1670, when the combined hearth tax returns from Warwickshire and Birmingham list a total of some 320 households. Its strategic trade advantage lay with control of the two vital packhorse bridges across the Anker and the Tame on the route from London to Chester. As today, a market town, it did a brisk trade providing travellers with at least staple bread, ale and accommodation, maintaining trading links as far afield as Bristol. Charles II's reconfirmation of its borough's privileges in 1663 gave the town an added boost, as confirmed by Richard Blome's description of its celebrated market, well served with corn, provisions and lean cattle.
The town grew rapidly in the 18th and 19th centuries during the Industrial Revolution, benefiting from the surrounding coal mines. It also became connected to the canal network, with the Coventry Canal being built through the town. The late 18th century saw further improvements in the local transport infrastructure, and the beginnings of industrialisation: In 1770 the Tamworth Turnpike trust was established, which set about making improvements to the roads in and around the town. In 1777 the Trent and Mersey Canal was completed, running to within a few miles of Tamworth. In 1790 the Coventry Canal was completed through Tamworth, linking Tamworth to the growing national canal network, a junction was soon made between this and the Birmingham and Fazeley Canal.
Robert 'parsley' Peel (1723–1795) a Lancashire cotton mill owner was the first member of the Peel family to become established in the area. Peel had become well known for producing textiles with a parsley leaf design, this led him to becoming known as 'Parsley' Peel. After his mills in Lancashire were damaged by riots, Peel moved his mill operations to Burton upon Trent in Staffordshire in 1780, attracted in part due to the improving local transport systems.
His son, Sir Robert Peel, 1st Baronet (1750–1830) played a major role in developing Tamworth's economy, he established the first cotton mills in Tamworth in 1788, one of which, known as 'Castle Mill' was based in Tamworth Castle. Textiles soon became Tamworth's main industry. Peel also established several banks in Tamworth. Peel moved permanently from Lancashire, and set up home in Drayton Manor just outside Tamworth in the 1790s. He became the town's Member of Parliament in 1790, and remained so until 1820. He used his parliamentary influence to improve the working conditions in factories.
By far the most famous member of the Peel family, was his son Sir Robert Peel, 2nd Baronet (1788–1850) who rose to become one of the most famous Prime Ministers of the Victorian era, and served as the town's Member of Parliament from 1830 until his death in 1850. He lived at the nearby Drayton Manor. It was in Tamworth that Robert Peel unveiled his Tamworth Manifesto in 1834 which created what is now the modern Conservative Party. While Home Secretary, Peel helped create the modern concept of the police force, leading to officers being known as "bobbies" or "Peelers". Peel is commemorated in Tamworth by a statue in front of the town hall, which was produced by Matthew Noble in 1852.
There were a number of improvements to Tamworth during the 19th century. In 1807 the pavements were flagged. 1809 A new church entrance was completed and a new organ erected funded by public subscriptions. (source see 1809 Parish Records). From 1835 Tamworth had gaslight. In the late 19th century a piped water supply was created.
The railways arrived with the Midland Railway route from Derby to Birmingham arriving in Tamworth in 1847, and later the London and North Western Railway, which provided direct trains to the capital. A split-level station exists where the two main lines cross each another, the higher-level platforms (on the Derby to Birmingham line), being at right angles to the lower ones on the main line to London.
The first municipal cemetery opened in 1876. The Assembly Rooms were built in 1889. In 1897 the corporation bought Tamworth Castle.
A hospital was built in Tamworth in 1880 and was funded by one of the town's greatest benefactors, William MacGregor, at his own expense. An infirmary was built in 1903. MacGregor also built two churches at Glascote and Hopwas and had the bells at St. Editha's church recast. He also started a free library, a working men's club, a school (Now called William MacGregor School) and started the Co-operative society in the town in 1885 acting as guarantor.
Tamworth was historically divided between Warwickshire and Staffordshire, with the county boundary running along the town centre. The boundary was re-drawn following the Local Government Act 1888, which created county councils. The Act decreed that urban areas, such as Tamworth, which were situated in more than one county, should transfer entirely into the county which contained the larger portion of the population at the 1881 census: In Tamworth's case, the Staffordshire part of Tamworth Borough contained 2,589 people and the Warwickshire part, 2,032, therefore Tamworth became part of Staffordshire from 1 April 1889.
During the 19th century the Tamworth pig, a long-bodied, heavily bristled breed, was first sold here by cross-breeding pigs available locally with imported Irish stock.
The first council houses in Tamworth were built in 1900. More were built in the 1920s and 1930s and after 1945.
The first public library in Tamworth was built in 1905. Tamworth gained an electricity supply in 1924.
Tamworth grew rapidly in the postwar years as it soaked up overspill from the West Midlands conurbation to the southwest. A population of about 7,000 in 1931 had risen to some 13,000 just after the Second World War; this figure remained fairly static until the late 1960s when a major expansion plan was implemented. Although not officially a "New Town", Tamworth's expansion resembled the development of many new towns. As part of this plan the town boundaries were expanded to include the industrial area around Wilnecote to the south. The 1961 population of the new enlarged area was 25,000. In 1971 it was 40,000; in 1981, 64,000; in 1991, 68,000 and in 2001, 72,000, meaning that the town's population had almost doubled within 30 years.
The Reliant Motor Company was founded in Tamworth in 1935 by T. L. Williams and E. S. Thompson, and cars such as the Scimitar four wheeled sports cars and the Robin three wheeled economy cars were manufactured here until the company moved to Cannock in 1998. A year later the old factory was razed to the ground and a new housing estate built in its place called "Scimitar Park" with street names assuming names of Reliant vehicles (e.g. Robin Close).
The A5 dual-carriageway Fazeley, Two Gates and Wilnecote Bypass opened in July 1995, acting both as a bypass of Watling Street, and as a fast route for traffic into the town. This was further extended to meet the M6 Toll and A38 in 2005. The road's official name is Thomas Guy Way.
Tamworth has six designated Local Nature Reserves, Hodge Lane (Amington), Kettlebrook, Tameside, Dosthill Park, Warwickshire Moor and Broadmeadow, which became the newest nature reserve in April 2013.
So, from Mercian capital to Industrial town via the founding of a major political party, Tamworth has a lot of history and I was eager to see whether this would be reflected amongst the town's many watering holes. With the town well served by public transport, I arrived just after midday, following a train journey of a little less than an hour, and immediately navigated my way out of the curious, split-level train station in search of my first stop. Leaving the station and crossing the road, I passed a roundabout decorated with a metal sculpture of an ancient warrior, and took a right onto Albert Street, a residential street that seemed to house a lot of professional healthcare businesses, from dentists to chiropodists. A few minutes further on from this, I reached a set of traffic lights at a busy road junction and took a left onto Gungate. I had now reached the town centre proper and was pleased to see that it was a traditional town centre, in the sense of being a nice mix of brand stores, charity shops and independent businesses. Luckily for me, it also happened to hold the location of my first stop on the day's itinerary. A short way down, on the left hand side, you will find The Globe Inn.
Operating as both a pub/restaurant and hotel, The Globe is a large single-roomed building. I entered through the main front door into a large, welcoming bar space. Though one room, the interior is broken up with the creative use of internal walls and alcoves. There are a number of tables under the main windows and the bar is central to the room, curving around to one side. Opposite the bar is a snug-type dining space with more tables as well as banquette seating. A raised area to one side has longer tables for dining and a large separate room to the rear acts as a function room. The premises has recently undergone a tasteful refurbishment. The decor is a mix of modern and traditional, with brass decorative rails, lots of mirrors and well-matched furnishings. There is also a fruit machine and several TVs that are normally off unless a major sporting event is taking place. The aforementioned bar is large and has a mirrored front. There are also 5 handpulls, front and centre. At the time of my visit, just one of these was operational but one is better than none and I was soon supping a glass of Wainwright in a chair opposite the bar, next to the fruit machine. Following a much needed toilet trip, I returned to fully enjoy the beer. The Wainwright was in good enough condition. It was certainly refreshing and went down very easily following my excursion. The Globe had proven to be a perfectly adequate first stop.
Leaving the Globe the way I came in, I turned left and continued to follow Gungate. Crossing over a side road, I ventured deeper into the precinct and found, next to a pay and display car park, stop number two. Next up was The Penny Black.
The first of three consecutive Stonegate premises that I would be visiting, what is now the Penny Black was formerly a Yates's and underwent a significant refurbishment that was completed in August 2022. The current name reflects the building's former life as a post office. There is a small seating area at the front, similar in style to a cafe-bar and, inside, a single L-shaped room, divided into various areas. Photos of old Tamworth, along with posters and adverts for sporting events and drinks promotions, decorate the walls. There is a pool table opposite the bar and a number of TV screens throughout, of various sizes. When I arrived, these were all showing horse racing, unsurprising given that the day of my trip was the first day of Cheltenham Festival. The large bar runs along the long 'arm' of the 'L' and I was very pleased to see 4 handpumps present. Three of these however, were adorned with 'Coming Soon' tags meaning that my options here were reduced to the solitary available line. As this was providing Black Sheep Respire though, I wasn't deterred. I took my drink to a quieter part of the pub, which was already moderately busy, given that it was around lunchtime. I sat in a snug-like space to one side of the main, glass doors which look out onto the street. The beer was good. I've had Respire before, most recently in York and, whilst the Tamworth version was tasty, it couldn't quite measure up to previous offerings. I had considerably less of a walk in store to get to my next destination. It was actually opposite The Penny Black, though at a right angle to it down a side street. I could see the pub sign directly in front of me as I left the pub so it was no time at all before I was in the Old Stone Cross.
Allegedly the oldest pub in the town, the Old Stone Cross claims to have history going back to 1290. Two entrances lead to either side of the narrow main room and there is a smaller, quieter room to the rear that contains a pool table. Both rooms are served by a small, central bar. A beer terrace featuring old stonework and green vines can be found to the back of the pub. Internally, the furniture is scrubbed wood tables and chairs and there are photos and advertisements on the walls. In addition to the pool table, there are numerous TVs on the wall, which were again showing horse racing when I was there. The majority of the tables are spread around the walls of the room to maximise the space. The smaller side of the bar features 2 handpumps. On the occasion of my visit, these featured Lilley's Mango cider and Purity Mad Goose. Mad Goose it would be! This was the busiest pub I'd been into so far and I'd managed to avoid the interested gazes of the regulars as I'd walked in. It was standing room only, so I perched at the bar where I'd ordered, in a space that was reminiscent of a serving hatch. The reason for the pub being so busy may have had something to do with the very keen beer prices! £1.15 for a half?? Absolutely! The Mad Goose was also in good condition, which certainly helped. I enjoyed the beer whilst leaning against the bar, minding my own business and reading a report on a nearby wall about how Mick Jagger got himself barred from this pub for urinating up against the wall after a Rolling Stones gig at the nearby Assembly Rooms. It's an amusing and unexpected piece of history to find here!The Stonegate trio would be complete at the next pub. Leaving the Old Stone Cross, I turned right, and continued walking in the direction of St. Editha's parish church which stands directly nearby. Passing this with the church on my right, I reached an open market place and turned left down a nearby street that runs between shops. Reaching the end of this, I turned left again and found The Phoenix.
In a lot of ways similar to The Penny Black, the Phoenix again benefits from a cafe-style outside seating area, some of which is under cover. Internally, the layout is slightly different. A long bar occupies the left hand side of the room with seating opposite and inside the front windows. To the rear, is a raised area with further seating for both drinking and dining, as well as access to the toilets. TVs can be found throughout, showing either sport or news programs. The furniture is the Stonegate standard scrubbed wood with the floors mostly carpeted. This pub was also fairly busy for a Tuesday afternoon but I still got served quickly. There was a significantly wider beer choice here than I'd found so far, with no less than 8 handpumps occupying one end of the bar, with 5 of these in use. The choices here were Black Sheep Respire, Sharp's Doom Bar, Black Sheep Finisher, Greene King Abbot Ale and Courage Director's. As much as I was drawn to the Director's, I was intrigued by the Finisher, as it was a new beer on me, so decided to give that a go. I retreated to the slightly quieter raised area to sit down, although not before I'd picked up a copy of the local CAMRA magazine, which ended up coming in very handy as will soon become clear. I positioned myself on a table near the toilets, in view of a TV screen showing BBC News and took in my surroundings properly. Of the three Stonegate pubs, this is the one I preferred the most. It wasn't just the greater variety of beer choice, although that certainly helped. It just felt more welcoming. That's not to say that I felt unwelcome in the two previous pubs, far from it. It's more that I just enjoyed the atmosphere here more. And what of the beer? Finisher (4%) is a seasonal pale ale from Black Sheep, brewed especially for the Six Nations which comes to a close this weekend. It's got a light, sweet malt base, with Ernest hops, giving ripe apricot, juicy citrus and a little bit of spice. It's a delicious, delicate session beer. I thoroughly enjoyed it! Whilst flipping through the CAMRA mag that I'd picked up, I happened to notice that one of the locations for later on in the trip had altered it's opening hours and would now be opening later than I thought. This meant a slight rejig of the route but would still mean that I'd be able to tick off every pub I intended to visit. I was excited about my next destination and had high hopes for the latter part of the excursion as I knew that the more 'well regarded' venues were still to come. One of these would be my next stop. Leaving The Phoenix, I turned left, walked to the end of the road and turned left again. I was now back on Gungate and retraced my steps back passed where I had been earlier. With The Penny Black on my right, I crossed the road and shortly found the next location. Time now, for the Sir Robert Peel.
The 'Peel' as is it known locally has featured in every edition of the Good Beer Guide since 2005, including the current edition, and was recognised by CAMRA with a Golden Award in the organisation's 50th anniversary celebrations. The name is that of the former prime minister who founded the police force and the Tamworth breed of pig. Inside, the pub is an homage to rock music and great beer. A long bar takes up most of one side, with high tables throughout, and a smaller room to one side which features sofas. The walls are decorated with pump clips and rock memorabilia, including a festival poster from Monsters of Rock, a decorated guitar hanging on the wall, a rather alarming memorial poster of Kurt Cobain, a Bruce Willis cut-out in a fake air duct and, my personal favourite, a framed photo of Slash above the urinal in the gents toilets. The toilets are accessed up an alarmingly steep staircase and there is also an accessible toilet in the beer garden, which is a decent size and overlooked by the walls of the parish church. The bar setup isn't bad either! As well as a fridge full of bottled beers, there are 5 handpumps on the bar. 4 of these were in use when I popped in, offering a choice of Salopian The Whole Truth, Church End Grave Digger's Ale, Church End Goats Milk and Bingley Juno. I was greeted by the very friendly landlord and opted for the Juno, from Bradford-based Bingley, a brewery I was unfamiliar with. I decided to sit at the bar where I could properly experience the place and politely ignore the pro-Conservative political discourse taking place between the landlord and another customer. It seemed ironic that a sign proclaiming 'Bullshit Corner' wasn't at the end of the bar where the conversation was taking place but, this is not a political medium so, for now, I shall refrain from commenting further. Back on to the beer. Juno (4.7%), is a session IPA hopped with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. It's citrusy, fruity and very very easy to drink. In general, politics aside, this is a cracking place for a beer and I couldn't resist having another, ensconced as I was in the rock music being played over the inhouse jukebox. Thirteen Senses! Remember them? For my second beer here, it would have been remiss of me not to try the Grave Digger's Ale, seeing as it previously won a gold medal in the mild category at the Champion Beer of Great Britain awards. Mild isn't normally something I'm that keen on but I'm prepared to be converted, especially after this! Grave Digger's (3.8%) is a fabulous beer! A dark blackish red in colour, the flavour is a complex mixture of roast and chocolate. It's smooth, slightly nutty, malty and brilliant! It went down a storm and, before I knew it, my glass was empty and it was time to depart.
Following a quick stop for lunch, which ended up being well timed as it very soon started to rain, I found myself back in the open market place from earlier. This time, I kept going straight on and found the next pub just in time. Whipped by wind and a sudden downpour, I rushed the last few yards to Crafty Two.
Formerly known as both the Tavern in the Town and the Municipal Hotel, Crafty Two opened in its current form in 2019, following a refurbishment. The name combines the pub's love of craft ales with the tale of the Tamworth Two, pigs that escaped from a lorry en-route to an abattoir in 1998. The decor is simple, with bare brick, tiling and vintage wood. There is seating directly in front of the small bar, with booths and larger tables in a raised area to the rear. Beyond this, a door leads to the rear beer garden and the toilets, including what may be the world's noisiest toilet door. On the bar, as well as a large keg wall, there are also 4 handpumps. 3 of these were in use when I went in, with an interesting set of choices. The trio from which I had to choose were Theakston's Vanilla Stout, Robinson's Unicorn and Gower Gower Gold. It seemed unusual to find Welsh ale this far east so I decided on the Gower Gold almost instantaneously. I took my beer to one of the booths at the back, the better to charge my phone using the handy socket, and took comfort in the fact that I'd made it in here before the rain had gotten too heavy. The Gower Gold was very good. It's a 4.5% golden ale with flavours of citrus and melon and hoppy aromas from the use of Cascade hops. I'm glad I took a punt on this one. It's a beer I'd recommend from a brewery that I'd like to find more from. The Crafty Two had been a pleasant surprise and, with my phone charged and the rain abated for now, it was out and about again.Thankfully, I didn't have far to go. Two doors down from Crafty Two is Bonds.
This a deceptively shaped pub. The narrow frontage opens into what is probably the longest and deepest interior of any pub in the town. The interior is split over several levels with small flights of steps up to each one. The lowest level houses the bar and a small number of tables. The second level has church-pew style tables and benches, the third includes more seating and a fruit machine, with a door at the rear that leads to the fourth level, containing a beer terrace. The decoration is quirky throughout, with low lighting, beer signs, photos of musicians and a full-size red telephone box tucked into one corner. The bar even features three handpumps but, shock, horror!, none of these were being utilised when I came in. They were obscured by signs advertising various drinks offers which suggests that, either this is an aesthetic choice whilst ale is not available or, that real ale is no longer served on draught. I settled for Punk IPA as a reasonable alternative and headed up to the second level to, quite literally, pull up a pew. Too late did I notice the range of bottled ales available in the fridge. Still, the Punk IPA wasn't unpleasant. Bonds isn't a bad place. I really liked the decor and the little features that added to the ambience. It's just the shame that reason for my visit was non-existent.
I would soon be cheered up again though. After leaving Bonds, I turned right, walked to the end of the road, turned left and then took the next left onto Market Street. I planned on finishing strongly with the last few pubs, and the first of these would be the Market Vaults.
With origins dating back to the 14th century, the Market Vaults is owned and operated by Market Drayton based Joules brewery, who refurbished it in their distinctive style in late 2018. The narrow front leads into a small front room, with a number of tables behind the branded windows, and a log fire that certainly made the place feel toasty after the chill of outside. The decor is of a high standard, with lots of rich wood, glass and mirrors as well as Joule's branded lampshades. To the rear, a small flight of steps leads up to a second room with longer tables and high chairs and, beyond that, a narrow corridor with access to the toilets and an outdoor garden/terrace. A central bar serves both areas with a bank of 6 handpulls in the downstairs section. On the day of my visit, 5 of these were in use, with offerings from the Joule's stable, in the form of Pure Blonde, Pale Ale, Slumbering Monk, Beer Club Pale and Riley's Red. I'd heard very good things about Slumbering Monk so it made sense to put this to the test. I would not be disappointed. At 4.5%, Slumbering Monk is a dark, rich ale with a full body, smooth taste and notes of nut, fruit and malt, all enhanced by a bitter hop character. It's a delicious beer, made all the better by the circumstances in which it was consumed: sat at a wooden table, in a nice warm pub, listening to the chatter of regulars and trying to catch the eye of a very friendly four-month-old who wanted to say hello to everyone (Westie x Cockerpoo and Mastiff x Doberman cross in case you were wondering).
It pained me to leave the Market Vaults but needs must and I was soon outside again, with a few minutes to kill before my next destination opened. I spent some time exploring the grounds of the nearby castle and watching the flow of the swollen river rushing past. Before too long, I made my way to a row of properties opposite the castle gardens where, behind a rather nondescript door, but handily signed, I found the Old Bank House.
This Good Beer Guide 2023 listed pub opened in 2021 in a building that was formerly home to Sir Robert Peel's Tamworth Savings Bank. The building opened in 1845 and bears a blue plaque commemorating its history, the only pub, and one of the few buildings, in Tamworth, to have one. A small bar area at the rear serves four comfortable rooms, with furniture ranging from one long bench in the main bar to normal tables and armchairs. A staircase in the middle leads up to the toilets. The beers are served through 5 handpumps and the choice here was very good. The options were Black Iris Demon Cleaner, Ampersand Olicana, Shiny Plug Walk, Tiny Rebel Hank and New Bristol Coffee & Biscotti Stout. As intriguing as the stout sounded, I'm not a fan of coffee flavours, so instead I went for the Ampersand, and the Olicana (4.3%), a beer from their single hop series of pale ales. Having been complimented on my choice by the landlord, I retreated to the long bench opposite the bar and rested it on a small table made from a converted cask. I also made friends with a lovely dog called Lola before she had to leave. I'm not sure whether myself or the dog were the most sad about this. As it turned out, my beer had been a good choice. Olicana is a British hop that brings mango and citrus notes and this works really well on a pale ale base. The end result is sweet, fruity and with a citrus kick. I don't recall ever having had a bad beer from Ampersand on the few occasions that I've had one. They're definitely a brewery whose beers are worth seeking out.
It was back down the road to Market Street for my penultimate stop of the day and it was the one that I was probably the most excited about. Onwards, to the Tamworth Tap!
Located in a building that has Tudor and 16th century features, the Tamworth Tap is not only Good Beer Guide 2023 listed but the newly crowned CAMRA National Pub of the Year for 2022. Situated across two levels, the island bar sits in the centre of the larger, downstairs room which features bench seating, breweriana, bric-a-brac, hanging hop flowers and a rare, complete set of Good Beer Guides on a shelf above. Upstairs, the rooms have Tudor features and there is a 'CAMRA Corner' at the bottom of the stairs. Outside, there is seating to the front and a historic courtyard terrace at the rear, affording spectacular views of the castle. It's already abundantly clear why this pub is the best in the country, and that's before we even get to the beer choice. 8 handpulls sit pride of place on the bar with a wide variety of choices. For my perusal and delight were the following beers: Thornbridge Jaipur, Ainsty Ales Cool Citra, Mobberley Brewhouse Citra Mosaic, Salopian Oracle, Electric Bear Glitch, Enville Ale, Abbeydale Salvation and Sarah Hughes Dark Ruby. Definitely something for everyone and then some! There's also a fridge out on the floor stocked full of craft beers, as well as gins, wines and ciders. Perhaps understandably, I was a tad overwhelmed. Luckily, the staff here are also brilliant and before long, I had a glass of Glitch from Bath's Electric Bear, and a seat on a bench opposite the bar. This proved to be a great choice. I haven't seen much Electric Bear stuff on cask but I'd definitely choose it again. Glitch (4.6%) is a pale ale with a malty backbone and a delicate stone fruit finish. It's a cracking beer and this is a cracking pub! The beer is superb in both quality and quantity and the staff are friendly, knowledgeable and fantastic. As befits an award-winning pub, everything about this place is amazing. I couldn't just have one here. I opted for the Salvation (4.5%), an Irish stout from Abbeydale, one of my favourite breweries. Perfectly balanced, Salvation combines roasted malt and soft chocolate flavours with subtle hints of coffee and burnt toast. I truly felt saved! I could have stayed here all evening. I almost wanted to. However, the handy train times board above the door made me aware that time was ticking along and I still had one more pub to visit.
Leaving Heaven, sorry the Tamworth Tap, behind, I headed down Market Street and cut through a small covered shopping area, emerging back in the open market place from earlier, in the shadow of the church. Continuing on, with the church on my right, I cut down a side street and emerged, once again, on Gungate. My journey had now come full circle. Opposite The Globe Inn, where my day began, I would draw it to a close at The King's Ditch.
The only micropub in Tamworth, The King's Ditch opened in 2014 in premises formerly occupied by a cycle shop. There is a single largish room downstairs with seating spread around the walls and against the windows. Upstairs are the toilets and another, small, additional room for drinking. Ales are served via gravity, direct from casks that are mounted on stillage in a temperature controlled room to the rear, which can be seen on a camera in the main room. Customers are served at their tables and both cash and card payments are accepted. No TVs or games machines are present. This is a micropub in every sense of the word. As well as ales, the pub serves up to 20 (!) real ciders and perries, ensuring it has been a finalist in the National Cider Pub of the Year contest many times. The King's Ditch is also Good Beer Guide 2023 listed. When I arrived, there were a few regulars already in and I was directed to the beer board by the staff member on shift. 5 were available, providing a choice of Muirhouse Brewhouse Pale, 3Ps Cinder Path, Brentwood Falcon Punch, Lymestone Stone Age and Shiny Pillow Talk. I liked the sound of the Stone Age (4.2%) from Lymestone Brewery, based in Stone, and this was promptly delivered to my table in the corner, opposite the door to the cold room. Stone Age is a golden ale that was originally brewed to celebrate the brewery's 5th birthday in 2016. It combines the richness of Crystal Malt with Cascade hops for a very drinkable, fruity and delicious session beer. The locals were engaged in general conversation and I was content to listen and enjoy my beer, reflecting on the day I had had and keeping an eye on the time. I'd rounded the day off with a very good beer and the second half of the itinerary for the day had certainly been the strongest, barring the disappointment at Bonds. I had time for a second beer here too, opting again for the Stone Age, before it was time to make the cold walk back to the station for the train home.
Tamworth had far exceeded my expectations. I was aware that it had a handful of pubs in the Good Beer Guide and these certainly justified their inclusions. The fact that somewhere like Tamworth now has the best pub in the country in CAMRA's eyes is testament to how the beer scene here has developed over the years and even stands the town apart from places like nearby Burton-on-Trent with its illustrious brewing history. The drinking scene in Tamworth needs to not just be applauded but celebrated as loudly as possible. It turns out that there are other landmarks worth visiting in this corner of Staffordshire and I would encourage everyone to do that. As quickly, and as often, as possible.
Pub of the day: The Tamworth Tap. It's an award winner for a reason.
Beer of the day: It's a toss up between Gravedigger's Ale and Abbeydale Salvation
Biggest surprise: Crafty Two. I expected a run of the mill chain pub but got something quite a bit different
