My latest trip was something of a return to form after the more laidback and subdued nature of recent excursions. Last week, I was finally able to tick off a location that had long been on my radar but postponed for logistical and financial reasons. However, the occasion had finally arrived and it would prove to be well worth the wait, as I headed south to the county of Hertfordshire, a first for this blog, to look closely at the city of St. Albans.
St Albans is a cathedral city east of Hemel Hempstead and west of Hatfield, 20 miles (32 km) north-west of London, 8 miles (13 km) south-west of Welwyn Garden City and 11 miles (18 km) south-east of Luton. St Albans was the first major town on the old Roman road of Watling Street for travellers heading north and became the city of Verulamium. It is within the London commuter belt and the Greater London Built-up Area.
St Albans takes its name from the first British saint, Alban. The most elaborate version of his story, in Bede's Ecclesiastical History of the English People, relates that he lived in Verulamium, sometime during the 3rd or 4th century, when Christians were suffering persecution. Alban met a Christian priest fleeing from his persecutors and sheltered him in his house, where he became so impressed with the priest's piety that he converted to Christianity. When the authorities searched Alban's house, he put on the priest's cloak and presented himself in place of his guest. Consequently, he was sentenced to endure the punishments that were to be inflicted upon the priest, unless he renounced Christianity. Alban refused and was taken for execution. In later legends, his head rolled downhill after execution and a well sprang up where it stopped.
There was an Iron Age settlement known as, Verlamion, or Verlamio, near the site of the present city, the centre of Tasciovanus' power and a major centre of the Catuvellauni from about 20 BC until shortly after the Roman invasion of AD 43. The name "Verlamion" is Celtic, meaning "settlement over or by the marsh". The town was on Prae Hill, 2 km (1.2 mi) to the west of modern St Albans, now covered by the village of St Michael's, Verulamium Park and the Gorhambury Estate. Although excavations done in 1996 produced finds which include silver coins from the Roman Republic era dating from 90/80 BC. There was evidence of trade with the republic and that a settlement already existed on the site 50 years before Julius Caesar attempted to invade Britain. However, it is believed that the tribal capital was moved to the site by Tasciovanus (around 25 to 5 BC). Cunobelinus may have constructed Beech Bottom Dyke, a defensive earthwork near the settlement whose significance is uncertain.
The Roman city of Verulamium, the second-largest town in Roman Britain after Londinium, developed from the Iron Age settlement and was granted the rank of municipium around AD 50, meaning that its citizens had what were known as "Latin Rights", a lesser citizenship status than a colonia possessed. It grew to a significant town, and as such received the attentions of Boudica of the Iceni in 61, when Verulamium was sacked and burnt on her orders. Excavations preceding the museum's new entrance done in 1996–97 within the centre of the Roman town gave archaeologists the chance to date a black ash layer to 60–65 AD, thus confirming the Roman written record. It grew steadily; by the early 3rd century, it covered an area of about 125 acres (51 ha), behind a deep ditch and wall. Verulamium contained a forum, basilica and a theatre, much of which were damaged during two fires, one in 155 and the other in around 250. These were repaired and continued in use in the 4th century. The theatre was disused by the end of the 4th century. One of the few extant Roman inscriptions in Britain is found on the remnants of the forum (see Verulamium Forum inscription). The town was rebuilt in stone rather than timber at least twice over the next 150 years. Roman occupation ended between 400 and 450 AD.
The body of St Alban was probably buried outside the city walls in a Roman cemetery near the present cathedral. His hillside grave became a place of pilgrimage. Recent investigation has uncovered a basilica there, indicating the oldest continuous site of Christian worship in Great Britain. In 429 Germanus of Auxerre visited the church and subsequently promoted the cult of St Alban.
A few traces of the Roman city remain visible, such as parts of the city walls, a hypocaust – still in situ under a mosaic floor, and the theatre, which is on land belonging to the Earl of Verulam, as well as items in the museum. Further remains beneath nearby agricultural land have only had a few exploratory trenches, which have never been fully excavated and were seriously threatened by deep ploughing, which ceased in 2005 after compensation was agreed. Test trenches in 2003 confirmed that serious damage had occurred to buildings on the northern side of Old Watling Street by deep ploughing. Permission needs to be granted to enable the full extent of the damage to the western half of Verulamium to be investigated.
After the Roman withdrawal the town became the centre of the territory or regio of the Anglo-Saxon Waeclingas tribe.
St Albans Abbey and the associated Anglo-Saxon settlement were founded on the hill outside the Roman city where it was believed St Alban was buried. An archaeological excavation in 1978, directed by Martin Biddle, failed to find Roman remains on the site of the medieval chapter house. As late as the eighth century the Saxon inhabitants of St Albans nearby were aware of their ancient neighbour, which they knew alternatively as Verulamacæstir or, under what H. R. Loyn terms "their own hybrid", Vaeclingscæstir, "the fortress of the followers of Wæcla", possibly a pocket of British-speakers remaining separate in an increasingly Saxonised area.
The medieval town grew on the hill to the east of Wæclingacaester where the Benedictine Abbey of St Albans was founded by Ulsinus in 793. There is some evidence that the original site was higher up the hill than the present building, which was begun in 1077. St Albans Abbey was the principal medieval abbey in England. The scribe Matthew Vickers lived there and the first draft of Magna Carta was drawn up there. It became a parish church after the dissolution of the Benedictine abbey in 1539 and was made a cathedral in 1877.
St Albans School was founded in AD 948. Matthew Paris was educated there and it is the only school in the English-speaking world to have educated a Pope (Adrian IV). Now a public school it has, since 1871, occupied a site to the west of the Abbey and includes the 14th-century Abbey Gateway. One of its buildings was a hat factory, a link with the city's industrial past.
On Abbey Mill Lane, the road between the Abbey and the school, are the palaces of the Bishops of St Albans and Hertford and Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, claimed to be the oldest pub in England.
Between 1403 and 1412 Thomas Wolvey was engaged to build a clock tower in the Market Place. It is the only extant medieval town belfry in England. The original bell, named for the Archangel Gabriel sounds F-natural and weighs one ton. Gabriel sounded at 4 am for the Angelus and at 8 or 9 pm for the curfew. The ground floor of the tower was a shop until the 20th century. The first- and second-floor rooms were designed as living chambers. The shop and the first floor were connected by a flight of spiral stairs. Another flight rises the whole height of the tower by 93 narrow steps and gave access to the living chamber, the clock and the bell without disturbing the tenant of the shop.
Two battles of the Wars of the Roses took place in or near the town. The First Battle of St Albans was fought on 22 May 1455 within the town, and the Second Battle of St Albans was fought on 17 February 1461, just to the north.
A street market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, founded by Abbot Ulsinus, still flourishes. In 1553, Henry's son Edward VI sold the right to hold the market to a group of local merchants and landowners via letters patent which also incorporated St Albans as a borough. The old market hall, which dated from around 1596, was replaced by the Corn Exchange in 1857.
Before the 20th century St Albans was a rural market town, a Christian pilgrimage site, and the first coaching stop of the route to and from London, accounting for its numerous old inns. Victorian St Albans was small and had little industry. Its population grew more slowly than London, 8–9% per decade between 1801 and 1861, compared to the 31% per decade growth of London in the same period. The railway arrived in 1858. In 1869 the extension of the city boundaries was opposed by the Earl of Verulam and many of the townsfolk, but there was rapid expansion and much building at the end of the century, and between 1891 and 1901 the population grew by 37%.
In 1877, in response to a public petition, Queen Victoria issued the second royal charter, which granted city status to the borough and Cathedral status to the former Abbey Church. The new diocese was established in the same year, in the main from parts of the large Diocese of Rochester.
In the inter-war years it became a centre for the electronics industry. In the post-World War II years it expanded rapidly as part of the post-War redistribution of population out of Greater London. It is now a popular tourist destination.
My visit would once again see me delving deep into the cauldron of history. Barring snippets of the information above, I knew a few choice facts about St. Albans. CAMRA are based in the city, which did at least bode well for its many fine drinking establishments. Nicolas Breakspear, to date the only English Pope (Adrian IV), was born and educated in St. Albans and the city is also responsible for blessing/cursing (delete as applicable) the alternative music scene with both Enter Shikari and Trash Boat.
I set out on my Hertfordshire adventure on a warm and sunny Tuesday. On paper St. Albans should be fairly easy to get to. It's on the main train line towards London but it appears that direct trains from Nottingham no longer run there. Instead, I was faced with the prospect of a double change, first at Kettering and then again at Luton. I always find you can judge your proximity to the capital by the improving quality and efficiency of the trains. It being mid-August and the summer holidays in full swing, I braced myself for delays and overcrowding. I was pleasantly surprised to have my journey go off without a hitch. There were no holdups and the trains were surprisingly quiet, as the diesel driven monstrosities gave way to smooth, electrically driven machines. It was just as well that my journey went smoothly given that St. Albans is verging on prohibitively expensive to get to. Even my super off-peak return ticket cost me the best part of £70 and meant that I couldn't leave Nottingham before 10am or leave St. Albans before 6pm. After almost two and a half hours, I finally arrived at my destination, St. Albans City, the main train station, just before 12.30pm. I was concerned that I wouldn't have enough time to visit all the venues that I had crammed onto my itinerary for the day so, without further ado, I strode out into the glorious August sunshine, ready for an afternoon of exploration.
Leaving the station I turned left onto Station Way and followed this, slightly uphill until I reached the end of the road, where I then turned left onto Hatfield Road. My first stop, and first glimpse into St. Albans many pubs, was situated a few minutes walk further along this road. Before too long, it appeared on the left. My day would begin at The Mermaid.
The Good Beer Guide 2024 listed Mermaid is a friendly, welcoming community local. It was the first purpose built pub of its era, rather than just being a traditional taproom. The pleasant exterior, with a small drinking area, gives way to an impressive interior. The J-shaped bar sits in the centre of a largish room, which is decorated with mirrors, old pub signs and various other breweriana. The seating consists of wooden tables and chairs. A small snug is at one side of the room, with another smaller room to the right of the main entrance. Various CAMRA awards are displayed within as the pub is a regular winner of the local branch's Cider Pub of the Year award. To the rear can be found a recently enlarged, covered beer garden which also features an outside TV for live sport. The beer selection justifies the pub's selection as a GBG entry. 7 handpulls sit on the bar. 6 of these, in two banks of 3 offer a selection of regular and guest beers. On the day my choices were Oakham Citra, Wantsum Heart of Darkness, Nethergate Suffolk County, Listers Special Ale, Broad Town Bobby's Tipple and Batemans Summer Swallow. The seventh hand pump, standing alone, is reserved for cider and in this case it was Gwatkin Game Cock. Upon entering I had been warmly greeted by the very friendly, Frank Carter lookalike, barman who looked like someone who would not take any nonsense but would also be an excellent person to have on your side. After a moment's perusal, I selected the Suffolk County (4%) from Nethergate Brewery (£2.30 a half) and took it to a table opposite the bar. Despite the fantastic weather, with a long day ahead, I would spend most of my pub time sat inside, so as not to peak too soon. Suffolk County turned out to be a great beer with which to quench my thirst and start my day. Nethergate's flagship beer is a chestnut brown best bitter with biscuity malt flavours and warming, roasted undertones. Well-rounded on the palate, it leads to a superb bitter finish. So far, so good, and my beer was gone in no time. The Mermaid had been a great start to the day. Onwards!
Leaving the Mermaid, I turned left and continued a short distance down Hatfield Road until I reached Upper Marlborough Road where I took a left. This took me down towards Victoria Road, beset by roadworks, where I crossed over and continued on, down a small pathway in front of the Beehive pub (not featured on this trip) and emerging onto Keyfield Terrace. The next few pubs on my journey are all very close together which did at least save on walking time. The first of these, on the right hand side of where I'd entered the street, was the White Hart Tap.
Another Good Beer Guide listed pub, both in 2024 and in many previous years, the White Hart Tap is a one-room back-street pub. There is a small outside drinking area to the front, primarily consisting of picnic tables. A small flight of steps leads into the pub proper, with the square, island bar sitting directly opposite the entrance. Seating is wooden tables and chairs but with some comfier seating in one corner. The seating is spread around the pub, including in a quieter area directly behind the back of the bar. The toilets are through a door adjacent to the bar and a doorway in one corner leads out to a raised rear beer garden. The decor is bright and modern with contemporary features. 7 handpulls grace the bar here too, one of which provides cider; Weston's Old Rosie on my visit. The remaining 6 offer an interesting array of beer options. My choices here were: Wadworth Horizon, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wadworth 6X, Tring Side Pocket for a Toad, Arbor ZZ Top and Pentrich Box of Tricks. I'm a big fan of Arbor Ales, and at least as big a fan of puns, so it was a no brainer to choose the ZZ Top (4.3%) a session New England IPA brewed with Citra and Mosaic hops. I took my half (£2.65) to a small table in the window, slightly off from the bar, to enjoy both it and my surroundings. The beer was delicious! Big tropical and grapefruit flavours and an absolute riot of citrus. Unfortunately, I did observe something here that rankled me a little. Since pubs reopened fully after the various lockdowns, I've noticed a distinct drop in people's ability to display patience. A prime example occurred here. There was one member of staff working the bar on the day. He was a nice chap and was being kept busy with both drink and food orders. At one stage, he was running a sizable food order to a table in the beer garden when two gentlemen, in shirts and trousers, came in, presumably for a lunchtime pint. They stood at the bar, could clearly see that the member of staff was busy doing another task and, instead of waiting patiently, just gave up and walked out. Their loss. The beer would definitely have been worth waiting for.
From the White Hart Tap, I had a mere few yards to go to reach pub number 3. Reaching the end of Keyfield Terrace, I turned right onto Sopwell Lane, where my next destination greeted me immediately opposite. My attention would now turn to the Hare & Hounds.
This low-ceilinged, split-level pub recently underwent a complete refurbishment and reopened in November 2023. The front entrance leads through into the bar space, effectively a snug, with areas to the right and left of the bar laid out in more of a restaurant style, although food has yet to be introduced. To the rear is an area with TVs for live sport. A garden includes decking and a children's play area. The furniture throughout is primarily of the scrubbed wooden variety with upholstered chairs although there are stools at the bar. The bar here is fairly long and equipped with a bank of 4 handpulls. The beers on offer on the day were Wadworth 6X, and Timothy Taylor Landlord, alongside both SA and SA Gold from Brains, a rarity in these parts. I went for the latter of the two Brains beers and perched on a stool at the bar. I appeared to be the only one sat inside. I could see a few people sat outside, including the two guys who'd declined to wait for service at the previous pub. The Hare & Hounds does have a welcoming character to it, enhanced by the quality of the beer. It had been a while since I'd had anything from Brains so it was a welcome change to be able to sample it again. The SA Gold (4.7%) was well kept. This is a hoppy, refreshing golden ale, brewed with Styrian Goldings and Cascade hops. The end result is citrusy and easy drinking. I paid £2.65 for a half. Whilst the Hare & Hounds hadn't been my favourite pub of the day so far, I was beginning to get a sense of the character of St. Albans and its pubs in general. I was eager to see what else was to come.
I went slightly off-script for my next stop. Another pub stands slightly up the road and almost opposite the Hare & Hounds. It hadn't been on my original itinerary, but I was making good time so I took the opportunity to duck into The White Lion.
The Grade II listed White Lion dates from the 16th century and has been recently refurbished by the owners, Punch Taverns. The pub consists of two rooms. A small, intimate front bar, to the right of the entrance and a much larger main bar to the left, which features much more seating and space for dining. The toilets are located in a raised area in the main bar. More seating is available to the rear, where there is also a suntrap garden. Both interior areas are served by a small bar to the front. The small snug-like front lounge is where you will find the bank of 6 handpumps mounted. I didn't know this though and went left instead of right. Luckily, I was able to ask the member of staff behind the bar about the beer selection and was given a rundown of what was available. 5 of the 6 handpulls were offering beer, namely Adnams Ghost Ship, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wadworth 6X, XT 4 and Black Sheep Best, with the remaining pump offering Seacider Marmalade cider. In a moment of panic, I decided on the Ghost Ship and retreated to a high table just inside the door to the main bar, listening to the sounds of conversation from the smaller room, which apparently seemed to be employees having a meeting. The White Lion offers CAMRA discount of 20% to members and this is proudly displayed on a board at the bar. To memory, this is the only pub of the day where I saw this openly advertised but I'm not that observant so I may have missed it elsewhere. I also don't have a tendency to ask about it if I don't see it, something that I really need to get out of the habit of. Regardless, the welcome discount meant that my half cost me just £2.24, which made up for the quality of the beer itself. Whilst the Ghost Ship tasted and smelled fine, which at least meant no obvious off-flavours, it was decidedly hazier than it normally should be, suggestive of it approaching the end of the barrel. Ironically, the pub was recently awarded Most Improved by the local CAMRA branch so I suppose it could have been worse. I finished my drink and pushed on.
Leaving The White Lion, I turned right, continuing down Sopwell Lane. Reaching the end, I turned right again onto Holywell Hill. Continuing on, I soon came across an imposing building on the right. This would be my next destination, the White Hart Hotel.
One of the oldest buildings in the city, this Grade II* listed former coaching inn sits opposite St. Albans' famous abbey and was originally constructed in 1470. The Tudor exterior gives way to two small bars around a central serving space. There is an oak-panelled Tudor dining room to the rear. The decor here is minimalist and focuses on original hotel features. A suit of armour stands guard inside one of the doors. Oak panelling and exposed beams are the overriding themes. This is a very atmospheric place indeed. Walking in, as I did, on a beautiful summer afternoon, I was transported back in time and could almost feel the physical weight of the history. The aforementioned bar serves both sides of the hotel and includes 4 handpulls, though only half of these were in use when I went in. My choices were Adnams Ghost Ship and Vale Good Day Sunshine. I was unfamiliar with Vale's beers so the latter seemed like the obvious choice. I took a seat at a table in the left hand room, so I could better absorb the environment. Neither the member of staff on duty nor the other customer seemed to mind. The hotel reminded me in no small way of The George Hotel in Stamford both in terms of aesthetics and atmosphere, due in no small part to the White Hart Hotel's reputation as one of the most haunted buildings in the city. Stories are many. The ghost of a lady in 1820s clothing is occasionally seen drifting around the entrance. She was the victim of a tragic accident during the hotel's days as a coaching inn. Being of lower means than many coach travellers, she was relegated to a raised seat on the upper part of the coach. Upon entering the hotel's courtyard, she was too slow to react to the change in height and was decapitated. Her mournful shade has been reported ever since and her tale retold in a much less forgiving way by Dickens himself in The Pickwick Papers. Another tragic spectre is that of a young girl, the daughter of a former landlord, who died in a fire at the property in 1832. She has been sighted in the back corridors of the hotel on many occasions. A more mischievous spirit is that of a monk seen crossing from the nearby abbey and helping himself to a beer. Whether any of these characters can be linked to the phone calls sometimes received at reception from rooms that are known to be empty, is a matter for conjecture. Back in the mortal realm, I was thoroughly enjoying the hotel and my beer. Good Day Sunshine (4%), is a crisp and refreshing golden ale, with Willamette and Northdown hops. It's a good job it was tasty as a half cost me a frankly preposterous £3.20. I loved my time in the White Hart Hotel all the same. Fair play to anyone brave enough to spend the night!
My day was going very well and there was much more to come. I paused for a brief lunch break, during which a passing gentlemen complimented my Lamb of God T-shirt, before returning to the task at hand. Reaching the top of Holywell Hill, my next destination sits at the junction with London Road. On now, to The Peahen.
This imposing building was formerly a hotel and was built at the end of the 19th century, replacing a previous premises on the site. A former public bar, operated under the same name, closed in the 1990s and has since been converted into shops. Now operated by McMullen's, The Peahen was refurbished earlier in the year and boasts a modern and stylish interior. I was not prepared for how quirky and cool the interior this place is. A short flight of steps brings you up to the centre of a large open-plan space with bright colours, unique lighting, bespoke fixtures and fittings and interesting touches including bare brickwork on the bar back and an old rotary telephone surreptitiously hung on the wall. An upgraded garden features lots of seating and the added bonus of a table tennis table. The seating inside is various styles of wooden and plush comfort. Being a McMullen's pub, real ale is available from a trio of handpulls, alongside some of the brewery's craft keg offerings. The real ale options included McMullen's IPA and AK as well as Rivertown Ivel. Having been acquainted with McMullen's AK from a trip to London last year, I went for the IPA (4.8%) on this occasion. This proved to be a good idea. Mahogany in colour, McMullen's IPA carries hints of chocolate, coffee and orange zest, amongst a rich and full-bodied flavour. At £2.45 for a half, it was worth it. I sat at a high table across from the bar and marvelled at the unique decor of the Peahen. The pub is popular with students and it's easy to see why. It also becomes strictly over-18s only after 6pm. This was certainly an unexpected gem, something that I've noticed is a theme with McMullen's venues. I need to seek out more of them. Purely for comparison purposes you understand.
My next location was one that I'd been looking forward to since planning my trip to St. Albans. Leaving the Peahen, I crossed the road and headed to the Market Place, located a short distance away. Situated here, you will find The Boot.
This Grade II listed pub is believed to date back to 1422 but has been much altered in the intervening years. The flower covered awning at the front is a splash of colour in the shadow of the iconic clock tower opposite, which is currently covered in scaffolding and undergoing repairs. Inside, the pub is one room arranged around a bar at the back of the room. Seating, in the form of basic scrubbed tables and chairs are located around the perimeter and there are windows looking out over the historic market place. The clientele are of a mix of all ages and the decor is muted and welcoming. When I walked in, the in-house music was Kansas's classic 'Carry On, Wayward Son'. It's like they knew I was coming! This was by far the busiest pub of the day at the time of my arrival. The outside seating area was full and the inside was bustling, although there were a couple of spare tables. The bar boasts 8 handpulls, with 6 for beer and 2 for cider. There were certainly some intriguing options: Oakham Citra, Left Handed Giant Citra Pale, Tring Side Pocket for a Toad, Titanic Plum Porter, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Harvey's Sussex Best Bitter. The cider options were Thatcher's Stan's Big Apple and Weston's Old Rosie. I was tempted by the Oakham, then the Harvey's but I finally decided on the Citra Pale (4.4%) from Bristol's Left Handed Giant, largely on the basis that I don't see their beers in cask very often. Paying £2.45 a half for the privilege, I moved to a table near to the end of the bar, close to the kitchen which turned out to be a local business specialising in tacos. I could also hear the earmarks of any decent pub: jovial banter between bar staff. Its always pleasing when the staff in a pub are clearly enjoying being there. It lifts the mood and contributes to the atmosphere. It helps when the beer is banging! The Citra Pale was everything you'd expect. Citrusy, fruity and tropical but somehow dialled up to 11! It could easily give Oakham's flagship example a run for its money. The Boot truly is a lovely, welcoming and relaxing place to visit. Whether you're marshalling three very cute lamb-like dogs under a table, like a gentlemen nearby, or you're a visitor to the city who is out to explore, this is a must-visit pub. How it isn't in the Good Beer Guide is beyond me! It's not all positivity and light though. There is a gruesome story attached to the pub. In 1840, a visiting soldier became acquainted with a lady of the night and took her upstairs to complete their transaction. When he emerged in the morning, he was covered in blood and the lady was no longer of this world. As punishment, he was shipped off to Tasmania (then Van Diemen's land and used as a penal colony). His unfortunate victim may remain though. The landlord's son, who lives upstairs, has reported, on more than one occasion, the sensation of somebody lying next to him in bed when he's been known to be alone. No thank you.
Less sinister things were afoot at my next destination. As much as it pained it me to leave The Boot, there was much more exploring to be done. Crossing the Market Place, I headed down Romeland Hill. Following a quick side quest to photograph the cathedral, I continued on, where the road soon becomes Fishpool Street. Located along this very picturesque avenue, is the Lower Red Lion.
Built in the 17th century, this Grade II listed pub is Good Beer Guide 2024 listed and is regarded as an early champion of CAMRA's core values. The single entrance leads through to two rooms, both served by a central bar. To the right, is an area of wooden seating with an open fire and a small raised area beyond, featuring a dartboard. To the left, a single level space with more of the same seating. Throughout the decor is minimalist but full of character with bric-a-brac and old photos. The landlord has run the pub for a number of years and has a very good reputation. The pub was unfairly demonised on social media a while ago for its staunch anti-child, pro-dog policy. The backlash was such that a board inside the door now includes the names of, and distances to, the nearest child-friendly pubs in the area. To be honest, I can't help but side with the pub. Not every pub should, or has to, admit children. Plenty of pubs do, which is fine, but there's simply no need to kick off at the ones that don't. As a hospitality veteran, I can confirm that children are much more badly behaved, noisier and messier than dogs, so I am all for spaces that don't allow them in. If you're one of those people who kicks off when pubs don't allow kids in or don't let them run riot, you are part of the problem and the reason that the rule exists. Rant over. Back to the bar. The bar at the Lower Red Lion features 6 handpulls. During my visit, 5 of these were in use. Two were occupied by cider, in the shape of Thistly Cross Whisky Cask and Old Rosie. The remaining three were offering a choice between Nethergate Venture, 3 Brewers of St. Albans Special and Ilkley Pale. I'd yet to give anything from 3 Brewers ago so opted for the Special at £2.30 a half. I manoeuvred to a table opposite the large fireplace (thankfully not lit) and enjoyed my beer. This is yet another very comfortable pub for a tipple. If you're after a quiet drink, with minimal distractions, this is the place to come. Just be wary of the large step up to the toilets. The beer itself was very good. Special English Ale (4.8%) is deep copper in colour from the use of chocolate malt, and a hint of berries from English hops. It's very well balanced and drinkable and was a finalist in the 2017 Champion Beer of Britain contest, and deservedly so! Whatever the pub's stance on children, one uninvited guest has remained. The apparition of an unknown woman has been seen in the upstairs rooms. Who she is, and what connection she has to the property, remains unknown but she is also believed to be linked to the unexplained shaking and movement of bedsteads.
On I went, leaving the Lower Red Lion and continuing down Fishpool Street until I reached an alleyway in the middle of a row of houses. Turning into this, and following it to the end, brought me to Portland Street and another Good Beer Guide 2024 listed pub, this time The Portland Arms.
The first of two Fuller's pubs to feature on my trip is a community local tucked away in a residential area. A small seating area at the front leads to a flight of steps up to the front door. This leads through into the main room, arranged around a central bar with a separate seating area in a room beyond. A further carpeted area with more seating is at the rear. Seating is arranged around the room, in the form of wooden tables and a mix of normal chairs and banquette seating. A small number of stools allow sitting at the bar. Upon entering this pub, I committed a heinous crime from which I will never full recover: I stepped on a dog. In my defence, he was lying directly in the doorway and happened to be the same colour as the floor tiles and in no hurry to get out of the way. It didn't help that I'd come in from bright sunshine and my eyes hadn't adjusted. I felt awful but, luckily, the little Frenchie who had been my unintentional victim allowed me to fuss him by way of an apology. No harm done, apart from to my soul. Being a Fullers pub, The Portland Arms is well equipped with real ale. 4 of the 5 handpulls on the bar were offering beers from their own range: Dark Star Hophead, Fuller's ESB, Fuller's London Pride and Gale's Seafarers. I decided on the ESB (£2.90 a half) and pulled up a stool at the bar, the better to hide my shame and regret from canine judgement. As expected, the ESB was cracking. My go to Fuller's beer is normally London Pride but I was grateful that I'd switched it up here. I was much more careful when leaving the pub.
From The Portland Arms, I continued down Mount Pleasant, took a left onto Branch Street and continued on into St. Michael's Street where my next location soon hove into view. I was now at The Six Bells.
Another pub listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide, The Six Bells dates from the 16th century and takes its name from the peal of bells located at the nearby church of St. Michael. Inside, the pub is one room, with the bar extending across most of the rear. Pew style seating and traditional wooden tables make up the furniture. A real fire is to one side and there are numerous original features including white-washed walls and exposed beams. 6 handpulls greet you on the bar, offering a selection from near and far (unintentional rhyme klaxon). I was faced with a choice of Vale Wychert, Tring Fanny Ebbs (stop it), St. Austell Proper Job, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Oakham JHB and Vale Red Kite. The Red Kite (4.3%) interested me the most and so I parted with the sum of £2.50 for a half and made my way to a table in the corner of the room. As well as its beer, The Six Bells is known for being very dog friendly and this was evidenced by dog bowls throughout and treats available on the bar. I can't wait to have a dog again and be able to take it to the pub. I can confirm that The Six Bells' beer reputation is more than justified. The Red Kite was excellent. Chestnut in colour, there are warm toasted malt flavours and a satisfying blend of autumn spice. Too autumnal a beer for a summer's day? Not when it's this good!
I had a bit more of a walk ahead of me but at the other end I would reach an absolute icon of St. Albans pub culture. The quickest route to my next stop took me through the nearby Verulamium Park, which runs alongside the river Ver. The sun was beaming down now and the lack of any discernible breeze made the heat feel quite oppressive. In the moment, I didn't care. The park was busy without being too crowded and the walk was enjoyable, with green parkland on my right and the shaded riverbank on my left. It was well worth it, knowing that there would be a beer at the end. Soon enough, I crossed a bridge over the river and reached what is the very definition of an old-school destination pub: Ye Olde Fighting Cocks.
This is believed to be the oldest pub in the entire country. Not St. Albans. Not Hertfordshire. Not southern England. The entire country. Whilst there are a small number of other pubs that dispute that claim, parts of Ye Olde Fighting Cocks allegedly date from the 8th century. It is octagonal in shape and originally housed pigeons. The current building was finished in 1485 and was renamed from the Round House to the Three Pigeons in 1756 before becoming the Fighting Cocks sometime in the 1800s, due to the hosting of cock fights on the premises. Whether the building is as old as claimed or not will likely never be confirmed but being able to visit the pub is, I'm not ashamed to say, a bucket list moment as far as this blog is concerned. Many of the original features still remain, such as the low ceilings, various nooks and crannies throughout and an original bread oven next to one of the fireplaces. If the tales that are told are true, these physical features aren't the only remnants of bygone times that still remain. Rumours of a secret tunnel to the nearby cathedral abound but nobody seems to be sure whether these exist. Ghostly figures in monks' habits have been seen on several occasions, including by one bartender who witnessed a procession of monk-like figures coming out of the cellar to take seats a nearby table. An intriguing feature was that they were only visible from the knees up. They disappeared shortly after being seen. Strange movement of objects when nobody is watching has also been reported. Whilst it makes perfect sense that these ecclesiastical brothers might be continuing their journey through the secret tunnels in search of liquid refreshment many centuries after their departure from this realm, the fact that the stories only seem to date from 2001 means they should be taken with a pinch of salt. What's not in doubt though, is that there is good beer available here. The bar features 8 handpulls and, at the time of my visit, 4 of these were in use, offering Purity Pure UBU, Purity Mad Goose, 3 Brewers of St. Albans Copper and Adnams Broadside. The Pure UBU set me back £2.60 for a half and I decided to investigate the large, raised outside patio which I was surprised to find had plenty of space. I procured a table, and a much needed parasol, and set about recovering from the exertions of my walk here. I was really pleased that I'd been able to make it to this pub. Notwithstanding anything else, the history here is fascinating. The beer was decent too. The Pure UBU refreshed and revitalised me and went down very swiftly. It seemed a shame to leave Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, with its questionable ghostly monks, excellent beer garden and elderly Labrador (a customer's) pottering around amongst the benches. Still, my glass was empty and it was time to depart.
Departing the Ye Olde Fighting Cocks from the beer garden entrance I turned right and continued down Abbey Mill Lane. Turning off in the shadow of the cathedral, I re-emerged on Sumpter Yard and turned left so that I was back on Holywell Hill. Reaching the top, I turned right onto London Road and continued on. A few minutes further on brought me to my next destination. All aboard the Great Northern.
This Good Beer Guide 2024 listed pub was originally known as the Alma before changing its name to reflect its proximity to the now closed (but preserved) railway station on the old line to Hatfield. Grade II listed and independently owned, it underwent a major refurbishment in 2014/15 that completely changed the internal layout. An old semi-circular central bar has been removed and replaced with a rectangular replacement at one end of the building, to the left as you enter. The modern interior is bright and airy and there is a large garden which includes a heated marquee. Away from the bar, there is a room of additional seating to one side. The toilets are adjacent to the bar. Furniture is modern and a mixture of benches, chairs and high stools. Of the 6 handpulls on the bar, 4 of them were in use when I visited. These provided a choice between Dark Star Hophead, Mad Squirrel London Porter, Marston's Pedigree and St. Austell Proper Job. I wasn't really in the mood for a porter but the Proper Job caught my eye instead. After paying £2.50 for a half, I sat on a stool at the bar and took in the pub's modern, friendly surroundings. A lot of the tables were reserved for later in the evening, which certainly suggests the pub is popular. A small group of older gentlemen had gathered in the corner at one end of the bar and there was another guy sat by himself but overall it was fairly chilled. The Proper Job was just as it should be. When St. Austell beer is kept well, it's amongst the best and that was indubitably the case here.
Two pubs to go and the penultimate venue required retracing my steps. Leaving the Great Northern, I turned left and headed back down London Road to the cut-through next to the Beehive that I'd utilised earlier. Making my way back down Keyfield Terrace, I bypassed the White Hart Tap and turned left onto Albert Street to visit a pub that I'd been determined to get to but didn't open until 5pm, the Good Beer Guide 2024 listed Garibaldi.
The second Fuller's pub on the route, this late Victorian premises is named after the 19th century Italian patriot who allegedly lodged in St. Albans whilst in exile. Since its construction, the pub has been extended twice. Entry is up a short flight of steps which brings the drinker into a square room with a central, island bar. Seating, in banquette and wooden table configuration, traces the perimeter of the room. Further seating can be found to the rear. Two TVs are mounted on the wall, with a third in the garden, located to the side of the pub. I decided to pull up a stool at the bar again. It took me a little while to get served as the landlord was giving a couple a tour of the cellar, accessed down a ladder directly behind the bar. It later transpired that they were ITV location scouts looking for a pub cellar to feature in a new drama. The delay did at least give me a chance to look at the options. Three of the 7 handpulls were occupied with Fuller's ESB, Fuller's London Pride and Dark Star Hophead. Having already partaken of ESB earlier in the day, I went for the London Pride (£2.50 a half) on this occasion. It turned out to be a great decision. The Pride was superb and exactly what I would have expected. Whilst I enjoyed my half, I eavesdropped on the landlord discussing the TV crew visit with a regular and was able to ascertain that he runs the pub with his mother. The way he said 'mother' put me in mind of Norman Bates or Johnny Nice Painter from The Fast Show. Still, at least the beer was good and walls weren't black like the walls of Hell.
I had one more pub left before I needed to head to the station. Once again, I reversed my route, heading back up the cut-through to London Road. However, this time I continued up Upper Marlborough Street and took a right onto Victoria Street. Appropriately enough, my last pub visit before returning to Nottingham would be at the Robin Hood.
This Good Beer Guide 2024 listed pub is very handy for both the train station and St. Albans City F.C., if you feel so inclined, and is also the recipient of numerous CAMRA awards including Cider Pub of the Year for both 2023 and 2024. Inside, there is a single bar to one side, with seating at other end of the room including behind the front windows. A jukebox, dart board, table skittles, board games and daily newspapers add to the ambience and there is also a secluded garden to the rear. As well as a frankly obscene number of boxed ciders, there are 3 handpulls on the bar. At the time of my visit, the beers on offer were Otter Ale, Harvey's Sussex Best Bitter and Ossett Silver King. After a moment's deliberation, and another compliment on my T shirt from the man behind the bar, I ordered the Otter Ale (4.5%) for £2.55 a half and wandered over to the window to enjoy. The Otter was cracking. A premium, mahogany ale, it's bursting with flavour, well balanced and with a delicate sweetness. All-in-all, it's an absolute belter. The Robin Hood is a cosy and friendly pub and definitely a worthwhile stop off on the way to or from the station and/or a local football match. It was certainly a decent place to round off my day's activities. Beer supped, I made the short walk back to the station in time to get the train half an hour earlier than planned and, thanks to short turnover times between connections, was home much earlier than expected.
What did I make of St. Albans? In all honesty, it's hard to put into words quite how much I enjoyed it. The pubs were excellent and the beer was as good as I'd have expected with this being the heartland of CAMRA. I am amazed and thrilled by the quality of the beer that I discovered and the uniqueness and variety of the pubs I visited. It's no exaggeration to say that, across the 14 pubs I made it to, St. Albans has ended up being one of the best pub trips that I've ever done. That claim sounds even more staggering when I think of all the pubs that didn't make the cut. There were many more I could have added, and many more I could have taken a punt on on the way past to somewhere else. Still, I've got to save some for next time, eh?
Pub of the day: The Boot was the highlight. Great beer, fantastic pub, staff with just the right amount of sass. Why it isn't in the Good Beer Guide is anyone's guess.
Beer of the day: Left Handed Giant Citra Pale. Phenomenal. Blows the original Oakham version out of the water.
Biggest surprise: The Peahen. So much quirkier and cooler than I expected.
