There are places that, once you've visited them, you find yourself itching to go back to at any given opportunity. Places that take a firm grasp of you on an emotional, mental, and even spiritual level, and ensure that you never forget about them. London is one such place. I've waxed lyrical about London pubs many times and written repeatedly about how they are a class apart from pubs in virtually every other location that I've had the pleasure of visiting. Something about them just sets them in a category all of their own. The atmosphere, the culture and the vibes of a London pub just can't be reliably replicated elsewhere. So, when Amy & I had the chance to go back to the Big Smoke, nearly two years after our last visit, there was no way we were going to miss the opportunity. As part of Amy's birthday celebrations, we would be spending two days and nights down in the capital. We had a full itinerary in mind, including some unfinished business in an area that had captured our hearts and minds on a previous trip. As well as fully immersing ourselves in the capital and all of its offerings, we would be visiting many a pub, more than initially planned, including some bonafide legends, and some that would leave a strong impression and a distinct hankering for a return visit.
The day of our outbound trip was a Thursday and we were on our way bright and early. As with the majority of our previous London trips, we had opted to get the coach down. Whilst this takes longer than the train, it's considerably cheaper and is much less prone to being delayed for arbitrary reasons. At 8.20, our coach departed Nottingham coach station and away we went. Despite slight holdups due to the inevitable rush hour traffic, general London congestion, and awkwardly placed roadworks, we disembarked, shortly before 11.30, at Marble Arch. Our plan for our first day was simple enough. We had arranged early check-in at our chosen hotel so we would over there, check in, unload our belongings, have a quick refresh and then head back out. In general, this plan went off without a hitch. We used the tube to get from Marble Arch to Tower Hill, via both the Central and Circle lines, and then walked the short distance to our hotel, a Premier Inn that we had stayed in a couple of times before. This put us within walking distance of Tower Hill tube station, which would aid our travel from that point forward. With our stuff safely dropped off, we wasted no time in beginning our visit properly. When we'd been organising this trip, there was thing that we knew we wanted to do. We needed to revisit somewhere that we didn't get to spend enough time in on our last visit there, primarily due to plans we had later in the day. It was somewhere with its own unique legacy and culture, and somewhere at the forefront of the London music scene, both historically and in the present day. Readers who are familiar with prior London blogs may have an inkling as to where I'm referring. I'm talking about Camden. When we'd visited two years ago we were blown away by the place. It left a definite impression upon us and yet we felt like we hadn't had the time to do it justice. Our plan for day one was simple: spend the whole day exploring Camden fully. Not just its pubs, or its famous market, but the general area, absorbing its ambience and its history, and also completing our pilgrimage of sites linked to a local music icon along the way. Getting to Camden was equal parts straightforward and stressful. Back on the tube, we used the Circle line and then changed at Monument for the Northern Line, known for being particularly busy, warm and sounding like you're being chased by denizens from the pits of Hell. Still, the tube remains the easiest and quickest way to get around London so it was worth it to arrive at our destination in plenty of time.
Finally, after a long morning of travel, we emerged from Camden Town tube station onto the bustling high street. The timing of our arrival ensured that the market and surrounding streets were thronged with people. It was around lunchtime, close to 1pm, so the crowds swarming along the main thoroughfare made sense, as much as they made navigation difficult. We were much in need of liquid refreshment to revitalise ourselves and, handily, I'd put together a list of pubs for such an eventuality. It was to one of these that we would first stop off. I had chosen, as our first destination, a pub on the northern edge of the market, away from the hustle and bustle, which also put us in a good location for another place we wanted to find later in the day. Negotiating our way off of the main drag, we made our way into the back streets, via Castlehaven Road. After a few minutes of walking, we reached Castle Road, where we turned left. A short distance further on, at the junction of Castle Road and Hadley Street, we found our first pub of the trip: Tapping the Admiral.
This uniquely named pub is something of a local legend and features in the 2026 Good Beer Guide, as well as many previous editions. It is also a four time winner of CAMRA North London Branch Pub of the Year, scooping that particular accolade in 2013, 2015, 2018 and 2023. The story behind the name is itself the stuff of legend, but one that does at least have a link to verified local history. Following his death at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, the body of Admiral Horatio Nelson was stored in a barrel of brandy to preserve it for the voyage home. According to legend, en route to Gibraltar, the crew of HMS Victory tapped the barrel and drew brandy from it using macaroni straws, in order to toast their fallen commander. This gave rise to the term 'tapping the admiral'. The pub sits on the site of the former Castle Tavern, where Nelson's maternal uncle, William Suckling, was a regular visitor and would frequently bring the young Horatio, hence the connection. The Castle Tavern was demolished in the 1850s to allow for development of the area. The current building, originally known as the Trafalgar, was built during this period. Inside, perhaps unsurprisingly, the pub leans into the nautical connections, with much maritime bric-a-brac in the form of paintings, portraits, model sailing ships, items of naval uniform, tankards, and glass bottles suspended above the bar. The internal layout is simple, with a central bar serving what is effectively one large room, with seating positioned around the edge. Aside from the nautical memorabilia, the decor is fairly simple, with bare wood floors, a red stucco ceiling, simple wooden furniture, and upholstered stools throughout. Various indoor plants add greenery and a section of the wood panelling above the bar is covered with pump clips. To the rear, a partly covered garden with wooden benches and fairy lights can be found. The toilets are located in a space in one corner of the main room. Further playing into the name of the pub, there is resident cat, named Nelson, who takes up residence in the bar area. When we arrived, he was curled up asleep on a stool. He's friendly enough and not averse to a fuss but, as he is a cat, is also happy to remain aloof. Back to the bar, and it's immediately clear why this place has such a reputation for its beer. 10 handpulls occupy significant space on the bar. At the time of our visit, 7 of these were in use. Two were given over to cider, in the shape of Ascension Glow and Turners Russet, but the rest held beer, with a number of options from breweries in the Kent and Essex area. The options were Kent Ruby, Kent Cobnut, Brentwood Poseidon, Billericay Blonde and Kent Pale. After a moment's perusal, I opted for the Kent Pale, with Amy going for Beavertown Gamma Ray. A pint of each set us back a reasonable £12.10, and we scuttled over to a table near the door, where we could both take in the surroundings and also make a fuss of Nelson should he be so inclined. So far, I was impressed. Tapping the Admiral had been a great choice for us to get our breath back, as well as to rejuvenate for the rest of the day. It's a lovely Victorian pub, largely untouched, but with a welcoming feel and, most importantly, a great beer choice. The cask ale is fantastic. Kent Pale (4.1%) did not disappoint. It's an aromatic and full-flavoured pale, with a good balance of hoppy, clean palate and a gentle bitterness underneath. A great first beer for this particular trip to the capital. The pub's location, at the meeting of several roads, makes it a lynchpin for the local area. It's definitely worth a trip out of the market to the less tourist-trodden corners. Suitably revitalised, we soon finished our drinks and it was time to continue on our way. Bidding a farewell to Nelson, and the pub, we headed back in the direction we had come, in search of something entirely different.
Our previous visit to Camden had encompassed following in the footsteps of the late Amy Winehouse. On that occasion, we had visited the pubs in which she had both made her name and spent her free time. To continue, and ultimately bookend, that excursion, our next location was somewhere altogether more poignant. Making our way further into the residential area to the north of Camden Market, we eventually arrived at Camden Square. Our destination was number 30, a now privately-owned townhouse which was previously Amy Winehouse's place of residence and, tragically, the location in which she died, on July 23rd 2011, at the age of just 27. It's an impressive and imposing building and quite surreal to be in front of. The current owners, for whatever reason, have barricaded the main gate and installed CCTV cameras in an effort to discourage unwanted attention, which begs the question as to why they bought the place to begin with. Not to be deterred, fans have left messages on the pavement outside and carved onto trees opposite. Whilst the tree tributes have been left intact, and began shortly after Amy's untimely death, the pavement is regularly cleaned off, evidenced by most of the visible messages being from the last 12 months. We had been determined to make the pilgrimage here, to pay our respects to a much-missed, and highly influential, music legend. Her legacy lives on in the songs she left, testimony to the heartache and pain she experienced throughout her short life. Seeing the house where she lived and died was a deeply moving and emotional experience. It had been well worth the stroll to find it and leave a message of our own. It seems highly likely that this will continue to be a destination for fans to visit and leave their own tributes. One can hope that the current owners see sense and make the most of the publicity and attention that the property deserves.
Following this heart-rending diversion, we felt that we had done justice to our attempt to honour Amy Winehouse and, in a way, felt that we understood her more and understood how the climate of Camden, and the cultural melting pot that it represents, had inspired her and driven her on. We were about to experience more of that feeling for ourselves. Leaving Camden Square behind, we retraced our steps, heading down Stratford Villas, and the edge of Agar Grove, until we emerged on Randolph Street. We then stumbled across a pub which hadn't been on the original itinerary but which had been recommended by my good friend Dog. Seeing as we'd discovered it accidentally, we took this to be somewhat fortuitous, and so turned out attentions to The Colonel Fawcett.
Formerly the Camden Arms, the pub that is now the Colonel Fawcett was built in 1843. The current name comes from that of the victim of one of the last fatal duels in England, fought on this site in the same year that the pub was constructed. The unfortunate Colonel Fawcett lost said duel to his brother-in-law, something that he is clearly fairly miffed about as his apparition is still seen in the pub fairly regularly. The Colonel Fawcett now benefits from a light, modern interior. Passing through the front outside drinking area brings you to the main entrance, which opens directly into an open-plan main room, with the servery over in one corner. Bare wood floors and simple furniture occupy the central space, with high benches and stools over to one side. A snug, located to the left as you enter, features banquette seating and can be curtained off for private functions. The walls are a mixture of bare brick and plaster. Decor includes mirrors, old fireplaces, animal skulls, beer adverts, and one area of vinyl records pinned to the wall. A spiral staircase in one corner leads to an upstairs room (mind your head). The first floor cam also be accessed from a more traditional staircase opposite the entrance, which also leads to the ladies toilets. The gents are located through a doorway that is effectively under the stairs. An additional outdoor drinking area is to the rear. The lighting is bright but not intrusive and the pub feels homely and friendly. We wasted no time in heading to the bar upon our arrival. There are 2 handpumps here, although just one of these was in use at the time of our visit, offering Timothy Taylor Golden Best. A pint of this for me and a pint of Sun Rise, a keg pale ale from 40ft Brewing for Amy came to £11.85. We opted to enjoy our drinks in the snug. It had been a while since breakfast so now seemed like a suitable time to have some food. We ordered a couple of dishes from the bar snacks menu, lobster mac & cheese balls and cheese & potato croquettes, to quell our hunger pangs, both of which were delicious. We also experienced an unexpected taste of London hospitality when we were given a second portion of mac & cheese balls for free because the chef hadn't been happy with the first lot. We weren't about to turn down a portion of free food. I could see why Dog had recommended this place. It's definitely a comfortable pub to while away some time, away from the chaos of the main market. The beer itself was OK. Amy's was very nice indeed but the Golden Best was fairly standard. I've had better of the same elsewhere. Still, it didn't detract from our experience here.
We had a bit of time now before our next destination was due to open so we took it open ourselves to head into the market proper for a bit of an explore. In and amongst the plethora of food stalls, we established that much of the market itself is fairly samey, with the same items for sale in multiple places, most of them without prices. Needless to say, we didn't make any purchases. We came to the conclusion that Camden is much better than just the market and that there are other things to be seen and done than potentially overpriced tat and definitely overpriced food. With some more time still to kill, we opted to pop in to somewhere for a half before venturing on to our next intended stop. We chose to do this at The Elephants Head.
Right at the heart of Camden High Street, on the corner with Hawley Crescent, you will find this Victorian pub. Built in the mid-19th century, it has retained much of its original layout, as well as its tiled frontage, which extends the entire way down one side. The name is of uncertain origin. Whilst it is claimed to be a reference to the Elephant Pale Ale, formerly brewed by Camden Brewery, which stood nearby and operated until 1925, it is more likely to refer to the coat of arms of the Marquess of Camden. This coat of arms, featuring an elephant's head, now features on the coat of arms of the London Borough of Camden. The Marquess lived in Chislehurst in Kent and commuted to Camden. Several road names in both places are similar due to this connection. Inside, the pub is one long room, with the servery taking up the majority of one side. Tiled flooring and a traditional wooden bar counter reflect the pub's age. Stools at the bar make up the majority of the seating in the front part of the pub. A slightly wider section to the rear features pew seating, low stools and round wooden tables. A raised area at one end of the pub is a stage for frequent live music. The toilets are at the end of the room but, be aware, a code is needed for access, obtained from the staff. The walls are decorated with music posters from bygone years, primarily featuring artists who have played locally. Aside from this, and the yellow ceiling, the decor is minimal. Despite the large, well-stocked bar, there is no cask available here, although this hasn't always been the case. Instead, there is a keg selection to choose from, much of it macro or better known London brands. We were only popping in for a half though so settled on a half each of Brixton Reliance, which totalled £7.70. The Elephant's Head has an atmosphere all of its own and it's easy to imagine that, given its small size, it must be absolutely heaving in the evenings, especially when there is live music. We spent a bit of time here, enjoying our halves and examining the posters on the walls. We also made use of the facilities, which was what I imagined it would be like using the toilet in a Borg cube (Star Trek reference). Before long though, with sufficient time elapsed and glasses drained, we headed out in search of our next location.
It will never cease to amaze me how unique some pubs and bars can be. Even in London, it's always a surprise to find somewhere new and unusual. Our next location had been on our radar for a while and would prove to be just such an unusual stop. First, we had to get there. By accident rather than design and primarily due to the time we'd had to kill in between, we found ourselves retracing the route we'd made back to the market from the Colonel Fawcett earlier in the day. However, this time we found ourselves a little bit further down Randolph Street, in the vicinity of a set of railway arches. There, with trains rumbling past overhead, you will find the newest addition to the drinking scene in this part of Camden: the Werewolf Brewery Taproom.
Founded in 2021 by an American ex-pat from New York, Werewolf Beer occupies a unique space in the Camden scene. With the motto 'Keep Camden Creepy' the brewery occupies a railway arch, and the adjacent yard, just off of Randolph Street. Halloween may be around the corner but the spooky decor here is a permanent fixture. The yard itself features a life-sized Grim Reaper, demons, ghouls and cars from an old ghost train, which can be used as actual seating or for a suitably quirky photo op. It's under the arch itself though where the magic happens. A brewkit is situated to one side, with a small servery to the end of the room, tucked to one side. The toilets are to the rear. Seating throughout is long wooden benches, both undercover in the taproom and in the yard. The overall theme leans very much into horror and the music is predominantly geared towards psychobilly. Somehow, it all works. Before we'd even seen the beer list, we were already hooked on this place and its distinctly weird offering. The beer choice is fitting for such a location. No-nonsense versions of proper craft beer styles, given their own unique twists and with horror themed monikers. The taproom, and brewery, are keg and can only but don't let that put you off. There's something for everyone amongst their suitably macabre range. The bar features 11 keg lines, the majority of which are the brewery's own, but guest beers feature too. On the day, the following Werewolf beers were available: Psychobilly, Moonstomp, Kadillac, Ghost Train, Hell-o-Ween, Creepster and Horroshow. The guest beers were Holy Goat Honey Fang, Brew York Jekyll & Haze, Otherworld Nyx and Tartarus Frankenstein's Monster. If the draft range isn't enough, the brewery also offers cans to drink in or takeaway. All-in-all, much to choose from. There was no way that we weren't going to give the brewery's own beers a go. I went for the Psychobilly American Pale (4.8%), a hazy pale with grapefruit, lemon and pine notes. This is their flagship beer and it's easy to why. It's absolutely fantastic! Hoppy, juicy and easy-drinking, as well as being refreshing. Amy opted for something a touch more seasonal, going for the Hell-o-Ween (4.5%), a pumpkin ale. This is also brilliant! Pumpkin, spice, vanilla and biscuit flavours all combine to create a deceptively warming and smooth beer. We went for a pint of our respective beverages, at a total of £13.00, and decided to sit outside to enjoy them. We'd expected this place to be good. We hadn't banked on how good! What a find this place turned out to be. It completely lives up to the hype. The beer is sensational, the location is great and the ambience is eclectic and surreal and also in keeping with the overall feel. It doesn't feel forced or gimmicky. Everything fits perfectly. There's even an on-site food shack offering themed bites to eat, which is an additional nice touch. There really are much worse places to have a pint than in a converted railway arch, surrounded by ghoulish props and repurposed ghost trains, whilst trains thunder overhead and psychobilly blares from the sound system (which, if you're wondering, sounds like murderous hillbillies whacked off their mash on moonshine, but in a decidedly good way). This had been a highlight of the day so far. Imagine my joy when I realised I can order the beer for work through a retailer. This is a triumph of a venue. I would urge anyone to visit. We could comfortably have stayed here all day, but there were several other iconic Camden venues that we still needed to run the rule over.
With our glasses now sadly empty, we headed off, back the way we had come, with the thoughts of our visit firmly to the forefront of our minds. Retracing our steps as far as the junction of Kentish Town Road and Hawley Crescent, we approached our next location, which we had already passed on our way to Werewolf Beer earlier on. Time now for the Devonshire Arms.
Known locally as 'The Dev', this mock-Tudor premises is renowned for being the longest surviving goth pub in London, although it caters to all alternative subcultures and music genres. Originally built in 1927 by Courage, following their purchase of the adjacent Camden Brewery, the mock Tudor exterior is largely intact from this time. It is now owned by the Maloney family, who also run the Oxford Arms a short distance away. Throughout the years, the interior of The Dev has been remodelled. What was previously three rooms, including a bottle and jug off-sales hatch, has been opened out into a single U-shaped space with the partition walls removed. The bar is roughly central to the room and there is seating arranged around the perimeter. The front door still retains an entrance vestibule before allowing access to the main room. Bench seating in one area is adjacent to what remains of an original fireplace. A raised area at the far end of the bar acts as a stage for live bands. The toilets are at opposite ends of the bar space and both have their original doors, with the gents one being rather narrow. Subdued lighting, neon signs and music posters are the order of the day, with the ceiling completely covered with the latter and more of the same on the walls and support pillars. The soundtrack is strictly rock and metal. In short, this is exactly our kind of place, and comes across as an amalgamation of Ye Old Salutation Inn and the Tap & Tumbler back in Nottingham. Unsurprisingly, the furniture is standard wooden tables and stools, on a bare wood floor. The bar also partly delivers too. Two handpulls are here and one of these was in use, with Robinson's Trooper available. No points for guessing what I went with. Amy selected Gamma Ray from amongst the keg range, with a pint of each costing £13.40. We made our way to a small table opposite the bar, where Amy was able to charge her phone, and where we attempted to make a friends with a lovely dog and her decidedly non-committal owner. There were a few other seeming regulars in attendance too. The late Pogues frontman Shane MacGowan was also known to frequent the pub in years gone by. We saw no celebrities during our stay but we did have an excellent time. The beer was in good condition and we enjoyed the sheer randomness of the jukebox, which included being able to introduce Amy to 'Diggy Diggy Hole', a song about digging, by Italian 'dwarf metal' band Wind Rose. Look it up. It's a feast for the ears. The Dev is a cracking pub and we felt like we were starting to fully experience the alternative side of Camden. There would be much more of the same to come.
With our glasses once again empty, it was time to find our next location. Turning right out of The Dev, we continued down Kentish Town Road and passed Camden Town tube station on our right. Continuing on across a traffic junction, we took a left onto Greenland Road and then an almost immediate right onto Greenland Place, where our next stop can be found. With only a hanging sign to mark its location, we were able to find the Black Heart.
Now a cornerstone of London's live music scene, with an associated venue in the same building, the Black Heart has quite a history. The present building overlooks what would have been a house that was lived in by none other than Charles Dickens, though whilst living there, in 1823, he described the view as 'wretched'. In the mid-19th century, houses were built in the area where the Black Heart now stands and these were later replaced by industrial buildings in the 1890s. The street itself became known for the piano-making industry. In the 20th century, offices and a restaurant occupied the site and it eventually became the Camden Tup for around a decade from 1999. This was a modern cocktail bar style premises, similar to All Bar One. In 2009, the Black Heart was born and from then on has gone from strength to strength as a pillar of the alternative music scene. It was certainly very busy when we arrived! It's not just the pub's name that is black. In keeping with the theme, it's very dark inside, with low lighting. The interior is arranged around a large central servery, with booths and bench style tables the primary seating, although there are stools at the bar. Unusual portraits decorate the walls, which are otherwise bare, although there are numerous pump clips displayed above the bar. The Black Heart had certainly leaned into the upcoming Halloween season, with numerous cobwebs, skeletons and various other seasonal accoutrements hanging from light fixtures. There was also a massive cloaked skeleton at one end of the bar, next to a display of the pub's own merch, which seems to be a recurring theme throughout Camden. The toilets are located through a door at one side, which also leads to the gig venue. The soundtrack here is also steadfastly alternative and we entered to the strains of Metallica, always a good sign. Beer-wise, the choice is here all keg, with information provided in printed menus on each table as it is very hard to read the pump clips, even with good vision. Although that doesn't seem to deter at least one person from reading a book at the bar. Each to their own. Having managed to procure the beer menu, we had a glance through the options, of which there were 15, including ciders. And what a list it was: Saint Monday American Pale, Saint Monday Session IPA, Saint Monday West Coast IPA, Saint Monday Mountain IPA, Gosnells Honey & Ginger, Howling Hops Free Advice, Cloudwater AF Lager, Anspach & Hobday London Porter, Lost and Grounded Helles, Pohjala Saturnus, Cloudwater The Ritual Continues, Siren x Holy Goat Pitchfork, Holy Goat Iron Goddess, Pastore Blood Orange Margarita and Umbrella Apple Cider. After a bit of decision making, we both went for a pint of Cloudwater's The Ritual Continues (5.0%), which came to £14.40 in total. We managed to jump into a free booth just as the previous occupants left, otherwise it would have been standing room only. The Black Heart has grown a following for its craft beer, as well as its live music and, given the quality and range, that's not really a surprise. The Ritual Continues is very tasty indeed. It's a hazy pale, brewed with Nectaron hops for big juicy and tropical flavours. It was an absolute hit, and so was the Black Heart. It was a really cool experience ticking off Camden's alternative pubs and witnessing them all in person. We decided on food here too. The Black Heart specialises in vegan food. With no other option at that point in time, we ordered a burger each. It was actually OK and hit the spot, but not enough to make us want to give up meat. In general though, our time at the Black Heart had been great!
We had a couple more venues to get through in Camden and, luckily enough, they happened to be not only close to each other but close to where we were. Leaving the Black Heart, we soon ended up back on the High Street, where a quick turn of a corner brought us to the Black Cap.
The Black Cap, Camden's leading LGBTQ+ venue, only reopened in March of this year after an extensive refurbishment, following an 11 year period of closure. Its origins and history date back much further though. The name is a contraction of the original name Mother Black Cap, named after a local witch, and was named as such at least as early as 1751. The pub was originally located on the site that is now occupied by Camden Town tube station and was relocated to its current location in 1781, when the original site became a workhouse. The pub was rebuilt in 1889, with a first floor performance space finally finished in 1952. The pub became predominantly known as a gay pub from 1965 and in later years became known for its drag and cabaret acts. Paul O'Grady debuted his Lily Savage alter ego at the pub in October 1978. The ground floor bar is now known as 'Lily's' in her honour. Rex Jameson was a regular performer at the pub, under his persona of Mrs. Shufflewick, after whom the first floor bar was named following Jameson's death in 1983. Notorious serial killer Dennis Nilsen used the Black Cap to pick up his victims. In more recent times, a regular queer cabaret night featured several performers from Ru Paul's Drag Race, including Bianca Del Rio, Adore Delano and Trixie Mattel. In 2015, the pub was closed due to controversial plans for redevelopment. In the intervening years, it fell into disrepair and was a regular haunt of squatters, until it was finally bought in 2024 and restored to life. The resurrection of the Black Cap reflects how much Camden has always been accepting of different cultures and subcultures and the area thrives as a result of its inclusivity. The recent refurb certainly seems to have done wonders to this particular venue. Entering through the front door, takes you through a small foyer and then into the downstairs bar area, which is a single long room. The servery is to the right and there are a number of booths and more standard tables along both sides, leaving an aisle between them. At the end, the area opens out to include a stage in one corner and a small corridor that leads to the toilets. The walls are resplendent in shades of neon pink and purple, with artwork on one wall and framed photos of the late, great and much missed Lily Savage, mounted above the booths. Velvet upholstery and gold chandeliers complete the look. Once again, there is no cask here but the bar features keg beers from the Greene King range. A pint of Level Head each cost us £14.00 in total, and then we made our way over to a nearby booth. It's really good to see a venue like this open again. The loss of any venue, as well as one that prides itself on being inclusive and a haven for the LGBT scene, is always sad so it's refreshing to see this one bouncing back with a new lease of life. Its chequered history has left its mark in other ways. The legend of Mother Black Cap is known in the area. Also known as Mother Red Cap, the alternative name is thought to come from her penchant for dark clothing and a black cat that never left her side. Both the Black Cap and the nearby World's End (foreshadowing) claim links to this particular individual. Mother Red Cap was renowned as a notorious witch in the 17th century who had a habit of killing off her lovers. One was found as cinders in an oven, whilst another disappeared after a drunken row. Rumour has it that the Devil entered her room on the day she died and never left. Her parents were also allegedly linked to witchcraft and were hanged for apparently killing a young girl. Perhaps something from Mother Black Cap still remains. Mysterious knocking is often heard on doors. Numerous drag performers have witnessed unknown shadows reflected in mirrors, and many have felt uneasy down in the changing rooms, as if they are being watched. We felt and saw nothing sinister. However, it was interesting stepping through the doors of another iconic Camden venue. Our beers were OK and we enjoyed the stay.
Our final stop in Camden lay a short walk away. As briefly hinted at above, we now made our way to the World's End.
This long established Camden institution is known as another venue that fully embraces live music. The history of the site goes back to at least the 17th century, with references to a tavern on the site as far back as 1690. At that time, this was an entirely rural location with the pub proprietors relying on passing trade from London to Highgate and Hampstead. The site itself is believed the location of the cottage of the aforementioned notorious witch Mother Red Cap, who is claimed to have died in 1676. In its pub guise, the name Halfway House was also used. Two separate pubs operated in close proximity as both the Mother Red Cap and Mother Black Cap (now the Black Cap) were both in business. In the late 18th century, the Mother Red Cap occupied this site and had a tea garden. The building was reconstructed when Camden Road was built across the grounds, with the present structure, designed by H. H. Bridgman, dating from 1875. Andrew Marler, who previously ran the pub with a capacity of 200, bought the entire site in 1988, enlarged the pub to a capacity of 1000 and built a 500 capacity music venue, Underworld, underneath. The two combined venues have won numerous awards since and have hosted many rock and metal bands. The conversion of the basement has potentially unleashed something much darker. Rumours abound of a torture chamber, or even a gallows, once housed in the basement. Whilst no physical apparitions have been seen, there are many reports from employees of terrifying shrieks heard emanating from below. We were intrigued to see what the World's End had in store for us. The building is distinctly in two parts. Entering through the front door sees you enter the older part of the building, with a small central bar, carpeted floor, exposed brickwork and traditional furnishings. The newer, larger section to the rear is a touch more modern. Part flagged and part boarded flooring surrounds a larger island bar, with a beer tank mounted above. Seating is on stools and at scrubbed wooden tables on both the ground floor and a mezzanine level. Some exposed brickwork is complemented by wooden boarding higher up that encompasses most of the room. An old pub sign from its time as the Mother Red Cap is suspended above the mezzanine. A flight of stairs leads down to the ladies toilets, with the gents through a door that abuts the two sections of the pub. Throughout there's a good buzz and a friendly atmosphere. This is clearly a much frequented venue, for drinks as well as music. They even have acoustic musicians on in the main bar. On this occasion, a man with a guitar was singing a variety of hits from various genres, all whilst sounding remarkably like the frontman of Sleep Token. How would we know if it was or wasn't? Beer-wise, the choice across both bars is purely keg, with a smattering of options from Camden, and with macro brands represented too. A pint of Camden Pale for me and a half of their IPA for Amy set us back £11.85. Both were in good nick. The World's End is a fascinating place and it was rewarding to be able to visit, if nothing but to put an image to the name. Our whole day in Camden had been even better than we could possibly have imagined. With its long history, and lesser known strange tales of witches and other dark things, it's probably no surprise that this section of the capital has found itself as an epicentre for a merging of worlds, be that light and dark or a melding of subcultures. It's certainly a cauldron of conjoining tastes and experiences and, visiting as we did, a place very worthy of getting fully immersed in. Who knows what else there is to discover in this small segment of North London?
You'd be forgiven for thinking that this was the end of day one, but it wasn't quite. We got back on the tube at Camden Town, our heads swimming from the sheer whirlwind of the last few hours. Our destination was to again be Tower Hill, where we would soon be retiring to our hotel. But not before one additional stop-off. During previous stays at this particular hotel, I've always been drawn to a pub that sits a couple of door down, one which features in a book about London pubs that I recently received as a present. This seemed like the perfect opportunity to finally make it inside and soak up a bit of the atmosphere by means of a pre-bedtime beverage. Located on Prescot Street, this is the Princess of Prussia.
Named after Victoria, the eldest child of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, this beautiful pub opened as a beer house, next to Whitechapel County Court, in 1859, the year after the eponymous royal married Prince Frederick William of Prussia. By the 1890s, it was owned by Truman, Hanbury and Co., who built the present building in 1913, and whose name can still be seen on the impressive facade. The building was designed by Edward Sewell, and represents his typical style. Entering through the door brings you to the main bar area, with the servery sitting roughly central and looking out into the room. Bare wood flooring, stools and banquette seating can be found throughout, with the walls decorated in a combination of old beer posters, mirrors and London-centric artefacts. The current layout is a redesign of the original, which had the serving counter in the opposite corner, diagonal from the entrance. Originally the room was divided, with a public bar room to the rear, but these have since been opened out into a single space. Four-bedroom accommodation was previously located above. A beer garden can be found to the rear, accessed through the main room. The toilets are located through doors opposite the bar. The Princess of Prussia has been owned by Shepherd Neame since 2005, after acquisition from Scottish & Newcastle. We were already impressed by the architecture and grandeur of this place, even before we'd had a chance to peruse the beer choice. This being a Shepherd Neame house, it puts their products front and centre. Two of the 4 handpumps were in use, offering a choice between Spitfire and Whitstable Bay Pale. A pint of Spitfire for me and a half of First Drop, from their keg range, for Amy (total price £10.90), and we were soon perched at a table between the bar and the entrance. The pub was fairly busy, at least in the back room, a testament to how highly it's regarded. This is a really nice pub. All the time spent wondering what it was like inside had finally been worth it. I was thoroughly glad that we'd made the effort to visit. Shepherd Neame know how to run a good pub and they're certainly doing a grand job here. Not only is the pub spectacular outside, and cosy and welcoming inside, but the beer is in excellent condition. Spitfire on cask will always have an emotional hold on me as it was the first cask beer I ever tried. This pub helped me to remember why I liked it so much. Our first day in London drew to a close with the short walk back to our hotel, tired but happy with what we'd achieved.
Our second day, Friday, dawned with rain and grey skies. Following a hearty breakfast to knock out the cobwebs, we were ready for what the day had to bring. We had another full day planned. We would begin with a visit to the nearby Tower of London, head over to Oxford Street and Soho for some shopping, exploring and food, before our final destination, which would be over to the Apollo Victoria Theatre to finally see the stage production of Wicked. We were very excited at the prospect of ticking off another West End show but there was much to do before that. A long overdue revisit to the Tower was an excellent way to spend a couple of hours. We even discovered some things that we'd never seen before. By the time we were finished diving into almost 1000 years of history, the rain had stopped and the Sun was starting to emerge. To get to Oxford Street, our quickest route was the tube from London Bridge tube. This required a stroll over the river via Tower Bridge and then along the South Bank. We disembarked at Bond Street and spent some time exploring some shops along Oxford Street. By the time we were done, it was mid-afternoon and the urge for a pint was calling. As with the previous day, I'd earmarked a pub that I'd been longing to visit for quite some time, whose reputation precedes it and whose beer selection we were looking forward to investing some time into. Leaving Oxford Street, we took a right down Poland Street, which conveyed us deep into the heart of Soho. A short distance from Piccadilly Circus, on the junction of Great Windmill Street and Ham Yard, is an iconic London beer pub. Time for The Lyric.
This small pub, with its bay frontage, was originally two adjacent taverns, the Windmill and the Ham, which were later merged in the mid-18th century to form the Windmill & Ham. The pub was renamed in 1890, after the nearby Lyric Theatre on Shaftesbury Avenue, and was subsequently rebuilt 16 years later. The Lyric is the very definition of 'small but perfectly formed'. Inside, the L-shaped bar sits to one side of a single ground-floor room. Seating is minimal and restricted mostly to stools around the edge and a couple of low tables, alongside a converted barrel table, to one side. The floor is bare wood, the ceiling is completely covered with pump clips and the walls feature photos of old London and prints of the local area. A first floor room, accessed up a flight of stairs, is used as a dining room. The ladies toilets are also upstairs, with the gents down a flight of stairs in one corner. This is an unusual example of a beer-centric drinkers pub in this part of London. Good Beer Guide 2026 listed, the pub is something of a mecca for cask and craft drinkers alike. It's a good job we were here then! The bar here features 12 handpulls and almost double the number of keg lines. The handpulls themselves had a fascinating range of choices across the 11 that were in use: Brew York Tonkoko, Otter Ale, Robinson's Trooper, Ossett Butterley, Thornbridge Autumnity, Theakston Best, Timothy Taylor Golden Best, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Allsop's IPA and, for the cider drinkers, Seacider Lemon Meringue Pie and Lilley's Apples & Pears. The keg range was equally jam packed. Frankly, such a stonking display of beers deserved closer scrutiny. Amy went in for Brew York Tonkoko, one of her favourites and rare in these parts, whilst I went in for the Thornbridge Autumnity, with a pint of each totalling £11.40. The price was surprisingly reasonable for this part of London, and the surprises kept on coming when we established that Blair, a friend of ours from Nottingham, not only works at the pub as assistant manager but also lives above it. We caught up, learned about the trade in this part of the city and generally chatted, before he went back to work and we went back to our beers. The beer here is incredible. Not just that, but this place is incredible. It's an oasis of calm and an island of great beer, right in the heart of the theatre district. I was so happy to have finally visited this place. It was worth the wait. It's exceptional. The welcome, the atmosphere, the beer range, and virtually everything else about it, are more than just the epitome of the pub experience. This is one pub that you cannot miss. It's every little thing, done to absolute perfection. And the beer is the flagship of the whole thing. Autumnity (4.8%) from Thornbridge, is billed as an 'autumn ale'. Dark copper in colour, with a full body, it ends with a satisfying mouthfeel and a deeply, warming sensation. Brilliant. Amy's Tonkoko was spectacular too. We couldn't help but stay for another, this time from the keg range. Amy went for Jekyll & Haze from Brew York, whilst I went for a hazy pale ale from Left Handed Giant. This was part of their Twin Cities gluten free pale ale series, hopped with Strata and Mosaic. The price we paid escapes me but somehow they were even better than our first pints. I was positively giddy with joy and admiration for this place. We considered eating at The Lyric, as the food looked great, but we weren't overly hungry and so decided to keep our reservation for a restaurant later in the day, a decision we would come to regret.
We didn't want to leave the Lyric but, try as we might, we couldn't realistically stay there all day. Heading out of the pub and turning right, we followed the road to the end, which eventually brought us out a stone's throw from Piccadilly Circus. We visited the Lindt store, where we stocked up on tasty treats, and then decided to kill some more time before our food reservation. I was intrigued by a pub that we'd not long walked passed, and so we retraced our steps slightly to St. James Tavern.
Originally licensed in 1733, this impressive corner-site pub was rebuilt in 1896/7 by renowned architect W. M. Brutton. Red brick and etched glass on the exterior give way to an almost equally impressive interior. The bar sits at the rear of the room and is square in footprint. The majority of the floorspace is given over to wooden tables and chairs under a red stucco ceiling. The flooring is part tiled and partly carpeted. The toilets are accessed through a door to one side. The most outstanding features are four tiled panels, depicting scenes from Shakespeare, and another two that features hops and a vine. These panels, together with the exterior, are responsible for the pub being recognised for its historic interior. It being lunchtime when we arrived, the pub was very busy but we were able to find our way to the bar without any notable issues. The St. James Tavern is operated by Stonegate, which means cask beer is available from their approved range. On this occasion the two handpulls offered a choice between Hobgoblin Gold and Fuller's London Pride. A pint of Pride for me and a pint of Brixton Pale from the keg range came to £14.95. Now that's a proper London price! We managed to find a high table at which to place ourselves, whilst we got our breath back from shopping. The St. James seems to do a roaring tourist trade, which is likely partly responsible for the pricing. Still, there are worse pubs we could have been in and the Pride was a decent drop. It was another example of a unique London boozer so there wasn't really much to complain about.
The complaints would be solely directed towards our next stop, which would be the location of our lunch stop. We'd booked a table at Happy, a restaurant on Piccadilly, famed for numerous awards and a massive menu. It's a Bulgarian owned business, in itself a novelty, and seemed pleasantly busy when we arrived. We should have eaten at the Lyric. The food here was poor. Much too rich, far too salty, massively overpriced. We left feeling overly full, disappointed and, to tell you the truth, a bit like we'd been ripped off. We were due over in Victoria in a couple of hours so took the decision to walk. This decision was down to very much needing to walk off our heavy food. Plus it was a nice evening and walking around London is a chance not to be sniffed at. We headed straight down Piccadilly, passed Fortnum & Mason and then reached Green Park. We chose to walk through the park, crossed The Mall, skirted past Buckingham Palace, and then turned right, with the palace on our right, heading in the direction of Victoria. Before too long, we were right where we needed to be and with a couple of hours to spare. This gave us the opportunity to cover a couple more pubs before the show. The first of these was on Victoria Street, the main thoroughfare through the area, and is one of many in London to be called the Duke of York.
Named after Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany (1763-1827), this is a rebuild of a Victorian pub that was demolished in 2012 to enable improvements to Victoria Underground Station. In its previous life, it was the last survivor of a row of buildings that were demolished as part of road improvement works. The current pub reopened in 2019 and was recreated in Edwardian style with dark wood and etched glass. Inside, it's more of the same, with various rooms arranged around a central bar. There is also an upstairs restaurant which seats 80 people. The public bar features high stools, a theme that continues throughout, though there are rooms off to the side that feature low wooden furniture and settles. Historic photos of the area are displayed on the walls, and the light is from old gas lamps, now converted to electric. The effect is impressive, almost like stepping back in time to how pubs were over a century ago. In case you're curious, this is a Samuel Smith's pub, so largely stocks their own products. I've bemoaned the rules of Sam Smith's pubs before but I am prepared to give them another chance, particularly since the death of their notoriously strict MD, Humphrey Smith, earlier this year. Their pubs are architectural gems and, in London at least, the rules tend to be a bit more relaxed. There are a couple of outright gorgeous London pubs in their estate that I'm yet to visit so I do think I need to rethink my approach to them. For its part, the Duke of York is a nice place. Even on a Friday evening, it wasn't overcrowded or noisy. The beer choice, as mentioned, is from their own range. This means that Samuel Smith Old Brewery Bitter was available from the 2 handpulls on the bar, although it's not available in all of their pubs. A pint of it here and a pint of Diet Coke for Amy cost £11.95, which seems steep for Sam Smith's but I suspect it's due to the location. We enjoyed some time here, washing down the remainder of our awful meal and trying to banish it from our memories. The Old Brewery Bitter was very good. I've had it before but not for a while, so it was nice to be reacquainted with it.
Feeling a bit better after our sojourn and our pint, we had time for one more new venue before we headed over to the theatre for the show. This would be our final new pub of the trip and the final one before we headed back to our hotel later that evening. Once again, it would be something altogether different. Heading directly out of the Duke of York, and crossing the road, we headed down Wilton Road, in the direction of Victoria Station. There, we located one of the two entrances to Beer House.
Part of the airport and station based Beer House chain, this incarnation originally opened as Coopers in 1984, and was later renamed the Iron Duke, before being subsumed into the wider portfolio. An entrance on Wilton Road (where we entered) and another on the station concourse, allow entry into a two storey bar, with the servery on the ground floor. Booth seating is located opposite a metal bar counter, with further seating to the rear. A mezzanine level features more traditional seating and a view over the bar space, all under a high ceiling, with an ornate Victorian-style lantern. The toilets are on the upper level, through an unmarked security coded door, although there is an accessible toilet at ground level. Our last pub of the trip would prove to have a disappointing beer range. Despite there being a bank of 3 handpulls, these are not in use and are hidden from view. Closer inspection revealed that they haven't been used in a while. Instead, I contented myself with Neck Oil, whilst Amy stayed on Diet Coke, with our round costing £11.45. We chose to sit upstairs to while away the time. Beer House is a bit of an odd place. As a location for a pre-or-post-train pint, there's nothing overtly wrong with it. The beer was fine and the pub itself is fine. It's just lacking a lot of the character displayed in the other pubs we'd been in over the course of our stay. In the end though, this was just a brief stop prior to our theatre show.
With our drinks done, we headed over to the Apollo Victoria. Wicked was sensational. I'm pleased to say that it's easily in my top 3 of theatre shows. The two leads were magnificent, the songs are incredible, the stage set up and ensemble were fabulous, and it was all carried out in Art Deco gem of a theatre. If you've seen the films, or even if you haven't, I can't recommend the stage show enough. It's truly fantastic and I would see it again in a heartbeat. Following the show, we made the weary tube journey back to our hotel. The following morning, Amy's birthday, was our departure day so after breakfast, we headed back to Victoria, spent some time in our usual pre-coach pub of choice, the Travellers Tavern, and then made our journey back to Nottingham. We'd had an amazing time in London. It never disappoints. We always have a wonderful time and see and do incredible things.
I've said it before, but London pubs are second to none. There really is an ambience to them that you don't get anywhere else. Moreover, you can sense the history and the weight of the past. Camden pubs are a perfect example. They could easily be dismissed as tourist traps but that couldn't be further from the truth. They're an integral part of the communities that have built up around them and an essential conduit for the cultures that they embrace. Pubs are where some of the best ideas in the world are born and where some of history's greatest, and most infamous, individuals have gathered to think and to dream. Nowhere is that more apparent than London. As this cross-section shows, even in different parts of such a massive city, the diversity and uniqueness of the pubs you'll find, whether that's a goth pub on a high street, a beer-lover's paradise in the theatre district, or a horror-themed taproom is a railway arch, are testament to the enduring appeal of the pub as a vehicle for social and cultural change. I will never get tired of going to London. Pubs, and their people, are its lifeblood. Let us hope that that never stops being the case.
Pub of the trip: The Lyric, Soho. An absolute beer haven.
Honourable mention: Werewolf Beer, Camden. Horror-themed taproom, with a psychobilly soundtrack, in a Camden railway arch? Sold!
Beer of the trip: Left Handed Giant, Twin Cities: Strata and Mosaic, in the Lyric. Sensational.
Biggest surprise: The World's End. Much bigger and more historic than I realised and a really cool place besides.
