A Mish-Mash in Melton

Last week, I returned to Leicestershire with the aim of exploring a town that is known more for its locally produced food than it is for its ale. On an unsettled Wednesday, I made my way to Melton Mowbray.
Melton Mowbray  is a town in Leicestershire, 19 miles (31 km) northeast of Leicester, and 20 miles (32 km) southeast of Nottingham. The town is on the River Eye and the River Wreake and has a population of 25,554.
The town is best known for its culinary speciality, the Melton Mowbray pork pie, and it is one of the six homes of Stilton cheese. Melton Mowbray is promoted as the "Rural Capital of Food".

The name comes from the early English word Medeltone – meaning "Middletown surrounded by small hamlets" (and therefore has the same origin as Milton and Middleton). Mowbray is a Norman family name – the name of early Lords of the Manor – namely Robert de Mowbray.
In and around Melton, there are 28 scheduled ancient monuments, around 705 buildings listed as having special architectural or historical interest, 16 sites of special scientific interest, and several deserted village sites.
There is industrial archaeology including the Grantham Canal and the remains of the Melton Mowbray Navigation. Windmill sites, ironstone working and smelting archaeological evidence suggest that Melton borough was densely populated in Bronze and Iron Ages. Many small village communities existed and strategic points at Burrough Hill and Belvoir were fortified. There is also evidence to suggest that the site of Melton Mowbray in the Wreake Valley was inhabited before Roman occupation (43 AD).
In Roman times, due to the close proximity of the Fosse Way and other important Roman roads, military centres were set up at Leicester and Lincoln; and intermediate camps were also established, for example, Six Hills on the Fosse Way. Other Roman track ways in the locality passed north of Melton along the top of the vale of Belvoir scarp; they linked Market Harborough to Belvoir, and linked the Fosse Way to Oakham and Stamford.
Evidence of settlement throughout Anglo-Saxon and Danelaw period (8th/9th centuries) is reflected in many place names. Along the Wreake Valley, the Danish suffix "-by" is common, as is evident in Asfordby, Dalby, Frisby, Hoby, Rearsby and Gaddesby. In addition, a cemetery of 50–60 graves, of Pagan Anglo-Saxon origin, was found in Melton Mowbray. Although most villages and their churches, had origins before the Norman Conquest of 1066, stone crosses at Asfordby and Sproxton churches and Anglo-Saxon cemeteries as found at Goadby Marwood, Sysonby and Stapleford, are certainly pre-Conquest.
Melton Mowbray itself had six recorded crosses the construction of which spanned several centuries: (i) Kettleby Cross, (close to the present filling station near the junction of Dalby Road to the Leicester Road), (ii) Sheep Cross, on what was Spital End, (now Nottingham Street/Park Road Junction), (iii) Corn Cross at the Swine Lane/Spittle End junction, (reconstructed and reinstated on the Nottingham St/High St junction in 1996 as a memorial to the Royal Army Veterinary Corps), (iv) Butter Cross or High Cross, at the west end of Beast Market (again reconstructed from partial remains of the original Saxon cross in 1986/7 in the Market Place), (v) Sage Cross, at the East end of the Beast Market close to Saltgate, (on Sherrard Street opposite Sage Cross Street), and (vi) Thorpe Cross at the end of Saltgate (near the junction of Thorps Road and Saxby Road). All the original crosses were removed or destroyed during the reformation and other periods of iconoclasm or simply to make room for traffic or other development.

The effects of the Norman conquest are recorded in the 1086 Domesday Book. This document indicates that settlements at Long Clawson and Bottesford were of noteworthy size; and that Melton Mowbray was a thriving market town of some 200 inhabitants, with weekly markets, two water mills and two priests. The water mills, still in use up to the 18th century, are remembered by the present names of Beckmill Court and Mill Street.
Melton Mowbray has been a market town for over 1,000 years. Recorded as Leicestershire's only market in the 1086 Domesday Survey, it is the third oldest market in England. Tuesday has been market day ever since royal approval was given in 1324. The market was established with tolls before 1077.
Legacies from the Medieval period include consolidation of village and market town patterns; in Melton Mowbray, Bottesford, Wymondham, and Waltham-on-the-Wolds. The latter had a market in medieval times that continued until 1921, and an annual fair of horses and cattle. Many buildings in Melton Market Place, Nottingham Street, Church Lane, King Street and Sherrard Street have ancient foundations. Alterations to number 16 Church Street revealed a medieval circular stone wall subjected to considerable heat. This is probably the 'Manor Oven' mentioned in 13th century documents. Surveys of 5 King Street show it to be part of an early medieval open-halled house. It may be part of the castle or fortified Manor of the Mowbrays, which existed in the 14th century.
King Richard I and King John visited the town and may have stayed at an earlier castle. In 1549 following the Dissolution of the chantries, monasteries and religious guilds, church plate was sold and land purchased for the town. Resulting rents were used to maintain Melton School; first recorded in 1347 and one of the oldest educational establishments in Britain. Funds were also used to maintain roads, bridges and to repair the church clock.
Anne of Cleves house, now a Public House, is a Grade II* listed building.

During the English Civil War, Melton was a Roundhead garrison commanded by a Colonel Rossiter. Two battles were fought in the town: in November 1643, Royalists caught the garrison unaware and carried away prisoners and booty; in February 1645, Sir Marmaduke Langdale, commanding a Royalist force of 1,500 men, inflicted severe losses on the Roundheads. Around 300 men were said to have been killed. According to legend a hillside where the battle was thought to have been fought was ankle deep in blood, hence the name 'Ankle Hill'. However, this name is mentioned in documents pre-dating the Civil War. Furthermore, in the past, the names of Dalby Road and Ankle Hill have been switched around, thus confusing the true site of the battle.
Local notable families seem to have had divided loyalties, although the War ended with great rejoicings outside the "Limes" in Sherrard Street, home of Sir Henry Hudson. His father, Robert Hudson founded the "Maison Dieu" almshouses opposite the Church in 1640, which complement the stone built "Anne of Cleves House" opposite. This was built in 1384 and housed chantry priests until the Dissolution. It was then included in the estates of Anne of Cleves by Henry VIII, as a divorce settlement in the 16th century, although there is local debate about whether she ever stayed there or not. Anne of Cleves' house is now a public house which is owned by Everards Brewery.

Stilton cheese originated near Melton Mowbray, and is still made in the town today. Stilton cheese takes its name from the village of Stilton in Huntingdonshire, where it was marketed to travellers on the Great North Road, though no Stilton was ever made there.
Melton Mowbray pork pies are made with a specific "hand-raising" process and recipe. On 4 April 2008 the European Union awarded the Melton Mowbray pork pie Protected Geographical Indication status, following a long-standing application made by the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association. As a result of this ruling pies made only within a designated zone around Melton, and using uncured pork, are allowed to carry the Melton Mowbray name on their packaging.
The fox hunting crowd also left their mark on the town in a different way, through their "high jinks". Out celebrating a successful hunt in 1837, the 3rd Marquess of Waterford and his hunting party found several tins of red paint which they daubed liberally on to the buildings of the High Street, some traces of which can still be seen on doors of older buildings in the town.
There is also a picture labelled "A Spree at Melton Mowbray." and subtitled "or doing the Thing in a Sporting-like manner". It is dated 1837, the same date as the Marquess' event. It appears to take place on what is now called Leicester Street and depicts men in hunting clothes climbing on Swan Porch (a building in the market place), fighting and a gentleman apparently being robbed. There is no mention of any red paint. Of course this sort of thing may have been common in Melton Mowbray at that time and there is no evidence that the picture depicts the same events. What is certain is that the physical evidence appears to support the town was painted red. However this does not necessarily mean that the phrase "painting the town red" came from the event, and according to the Oxford English Dictionary, the phrase originated in the United States in the late nineteenth century.
The Melton Mowbray event was recorded as happening in the early hours of 6 April 1837. It was later recorded in the London Examiner. Henry Alken's pictures A Spree at Melton Mowbray and Larking at the Grantham Tollgate are said to illustrate the event. The events were depicted in a play called The Meltonians at The Theatre Royal, Drury Lane in 1838.

Melton Mowbray is home to Melton cloth (first mentioned in 1823), which is a tight-woven woollen cloth that is heavily milled, and a nap raised so as to form a short, dense, non-lustrous pile. Sailors' pea coats are traditionally made of Melton cloth, the universal workmans' donkey jackets of Britain and Ireland and in North America, loggers' "cruising jackets" and Mackinaws.

I'd only ever been to Melton once before when I'd accompanied George to a meeting at the local Wetherspoons. I was looking forward to getting a proper opportunity to explore what other pubs were on offer in this historic. Arriving by train, following a change at Leicester, I emerged into Melton around lunchtime and immediately set about finding my first intended stop on this journey. A short walk from the train station, sticking out like a sore thumb, was the building now known as the Anne of Cleves.

One the most historic pubs both in the town and in the Everards estate, part of this building dates back to 1327, when it was home to monks. The house was gifted to Anne of Cleves as part of her divorce settlement with Henry VIII, although there is some debate as to whether she ever lived in it. Thomas Cromwell, chancellor to Henry VIII is known to have lived in the house until his death in 1540. This is now a very popular pub, following a conversion and restoration in 1996. There are stone-flagged floors, exposed beams and wall tapestries throughout. Other elements of the past are thought to still linger within the property, in the form of  unexplained sightings of a white lady seen in the award-winning garden and a man sitting on a bench near the back door. Staff have also reported feeling an unseen dog brushing up against them in certain areas of the pub. It's certainly a very old and atmospheric place and I was greeted by the warmth from a log fire as I entered through a low doorway into the bar area. The bar sits along one wall with seating opposite and an area to one side that is set up for dining. A low entrance to a snug sits to the left hand side. The drinking and dining area both have entrances to the street outside. Being an Everards property, their presence is significant across the 7 handpulls on the bar, offering Old Original, Tiger (doubled up), Myrtle and Beacon Hill, alongside Slaughter House Wild Boar and Weston's Reserve Cider. I was unfamiliar with the Myrtle, so I decided that this was a good place to dive into whatever Melton Mowbray had to offer. Named after a famous chicken that was the mascot of the 10th Airborne Regiment and perished at the Battle of Arnhem, Myrtle is a dark red beer, brewed with Pilot and Flyer hops and boasting treacle-toffee and caramel notes. It's so dark red that it almost appears black and is a very warming brew, perfect for supping by an open fire. It's easily drinkable, with an ABV of 4% and has certainly got the day off to a good start!

As reluctant as I was to leave this very welcoming place, there was much more to see. I now made my way towards the market place where I turned off into Nottingham Street, where my next location was located. Next up was the Half Moon.

Located next door to one of Melton's many pork pie shops, this is a long and narrow, two-roomed pub with a half-timbered frontage. The main bar starts off at ground level but then climbs up steps to a higher level with the serving area at the top and lounge seating and a pool table through to the rear. There is a large TV showing horse racing when I arrive and a jukebox playing AC/DC at the only acceptable volume (i.e. bastard loud). The small bar abuts one corner of the top area and features 2 handpulls, with a choice of either Greene King IPA or draught Bass. I opted for the IPA and this was drinking well, and well kept. This pub is an odd little place with the street level area bringing an olde worlde feel to the building.

My next stop was the only pub in Melton that I had prior knowledge of. Heading back through the market place, I made my way slightly further across town to Wilton Road and the obligatory trip to Wetherspoons. The pub in question is The Kettleby Cross.

The local entry into the Wetherspoons estate is a purpose built 'eco pub' completed in 2007 and featuring a wind turbine on the roof. The Good Beer Guide listed pub stands close to the bridge over the River Eye and is named after the cross that used to direct travellers in the direction of Ab Kettleby. The layout is that of a large room spread over two levels, divided by a couple of steps. The bar is long and situated along most of one wall. 10 handpulls take centre stage with 6 taken up by doubles of regular beers, namely Abbot Ale, Doom Bar and Greene King IPA. The remainder are given over to guests, on this occasion Milestone Shine On, Brewster's Hophead, Purity Mad Goose and Newby Wyke Sundowner. I opted for the Mad Goose, a personal favourite of mine, and this was very well kept, being a zesty, pale ale with a smooth and citrusy finish, in a package of 4.2%. I took a seat at a high table near the bar and reminisced about my last visit here when George and I watched England v Wales in the Six Nations whilst we waited for his meeting. That was a good day and this was shaping up to be just as good.

From here, I made my way around the corner and looped around behind a nearby retail park before turning right onto St. Mary's Way where my next destination is located. Next stop, The Cutting Room.

Originally a section of the Melton Regal Cinema, which lies in an adjoining building, the building was converted into a pub by the Smith & Jones Pub Co. but has since been taken over by Stonegate. It is a popular venue for live sports, helped by the large amount of seating throughout. The layout consists of a large, single room with the bar to the left of the entrance and a raised section to the rear that is mainly for dining. There is a large balcony above the bar that can be hired for private functions but is otherwise open at busy times. 5 of the available 6 handpulls are in use whilst I'm there, featuring Nottingham Robin Hood, Pheasantry Black Pheasant, Courage Best Bitter, Greene King IPA and Lilley's Rhubarb Cider. I decided on the Black Pheasant (4.2%), from Newark-based Pheasantry Brewery. As the name implies, this is a dark ale with malty flavours, balanced bitterness and velvety flavours. It's very smooth and very satisfying and I'll definitely be seeking out more of their beers in future.

I was approximately halfway through the day's itinerary now and so I retraced my steps back in the direction of the train station. Passing back past the market place, I made my way to a pub that lies nearby. My day would continue at The Crown.

Adjacent to St. Mary's Church, this Georgian town pub is part of the Everards estate. The main entrance leads to a small porch with an entrance to both sides. Left leads to the bar room with a real fire and a large TV and right leads to a slightly larger lounge. There is a skittle alley to the rear and an upstairs room with a separate bar that is available for functions. There is also a cobbled courtyard with a floral border to the rear of the pub that features tables and chairs. I went left upon entry and found myself in a fairly large and comfortable lounge with one half of the central bar to my left. Each side of the bar includes a bank of handpulls with 4 in the room I'm in offering beers from Everards namely, Sunchaser, Beacon Hill, Tiger and Old Original. Sunchaser was my choice this time. At 4%, this is a straw coloured ale with lemon and honey aromas and subtle, zesty flavours of honey. It's very refreshing after the walk from the previous pub!

My next location wasn't very far away at all, merely a short walk and across the road. It was time for a visit to a micropub and I found just the thing at The Gas Tap.

The Gas Tap first opened in April 2016, in a converted sandwich bar opposite the church. Under new management since March 2017, the pub serves real ale, cider, 8 wines, quality spirits, soft drinks and Adnams Dry Hopped Lager. It is a small, single roomed pub with a capacity of around 25, 21 of which can be comfortably seated. The beers are provided by gravity dispense from a stillage in one corner. Recipient of a local branch Pub of Merit Award for September of this year, the pub is located within the historic building known as 'The Old Club', Melton's first gentlemen's club, which featured both Beau Brummell and the Prince Regent as regular visitors. Francis Grant painted 'The Melton Breakfast' within the building and there are pictures on the wall depicting the history of the building from 1870 to the present day. I arrived about 1 minute after the pub had opened and made my way to the stillage to see what was on offer. I found 4 beers available, all of which were very interesting. I was faced with a choice between Newby Wyke Bear Island Extra, Tres Bien Peacock, Milton Medusa and Froth Blowers John Bull. I'd never heard of Froth Blowers Brewing Co. so one of their beers sounded like a good plan. I've since learned that they are based in Birmingham. John Bull's Best (4.4%), the beer that I'd chosen, is a golden, well balanced beer made with British hops and malt. It was a surprising beer from a new brewery and it's always nice to find something new on trips like this!

I had time for a couple more venues now and these would take me closer to the train station in preparation for the journey home. Next up was a location that was almost opposite the path that led back to the platform. I was now at the Harboro' Hotel.

This former 18th century coaching inn still retains a good reputation for accommodation in the local area with 33 en-suite rooms. It was extensively refurbished in 2014 to give it a modern and open plan feel but two separate lounge areas have been maintained. The hotel is usually busy but it's size means that it rarely becomes crowded. The bar sits at an angle in one corner of the main route through the hotel and includes 4 handpulls. Available on the day are Timothy Taylor Landlord, Black Sheep Bitter, St. Austell Proper Job and Morland Old Speckled Hen. It was nice to see Proper Job in this part of the world so I gave that a go and this was a good choice as it was delicious and in just the right condition. I enjoyed my drink at a table underneath a TV that was showing Supergirl without sound or subtitles which I can't help but think defeats the point. The beer more than made up for it though.

I had time for once last stop before my journey back home and it was one that was worth waiting for. I would finish the day at Noel's Arms.

This is a popular single-roomed pub that became a freehouse in 2013 and has since shown real commitment to real ale with microbreweries featuring prominently. In the intervening years, more than 200 real ales and ciders have featured, many of them LocAle. Live music features prominently at weekends and darts, pool and cribbage are also available. Awarded Branch Pub of the Year for 2014, the Noel's is Good Beer Guide listed and deservedly so. 4 of the 5 handpulls are in use when I arrive, with a choice of Doom Bar, Twisted WTF, Belvoir Dark Horse and Belvoir Gordon Bennett. I swung for the excellently name Gordon Bennett (4.1%), from Belvoir Brewery, located at Old Dalby just outside of the town. Named for the infamous playboy billionaire who sponsored many early gas balloon and motor car racing teams, this is a chestnut beer with a biscuity finish and overtones of aroma from the late addition of English hops. It's certainly a cracking pint! I sat at a low table, near the door to the toilets and roughly between a muted jukebox and a TV playing power ballads. It was almost time to leave and time to reflect on my day.

Does Melton need to add real ale to its list of locally recognised produce alongside the aforementioned cheese and pork pies? I believe so. There are a lot of venues in this town that are flying the flag for real ale in this town. The Noel's Arms, Kettleby Cross and Gas Tap in particular should be commended for their commitment for keeping faith with proper beer in this lovely part of Leicestershire. There are places that don't quite hit the mark, as there are in every town. The Half Moon was the less favourable venue of the day but their beer was good so there's not too much to complain about really. I enjoyed my foray into the real ale scene of Melton Mowbray and I like to think I will return. I ran out of time to visit The Boat, another GBG listed pub not far from the station that has gain something of a reputation in recent years for its choice of ales. A return trip is likely to be worth it for that alone. Melton can be proud of its culinary heritage. And now it can be proud of its beer scene too!

Happy Brew-day to Me!

For my 30th birthday back in February (*cries*) I was very lucky to have been bought a Red Letter Day trip to be a brewer for a day, courtesy of my mum and stepdad. I decided to book this a few months later in the year to give myself an extra thing to look forward to. The day had finally arrived last Friday and I was very excited as I made my way to my chosen location for a 10am start. I had chosen to spend the day brewing at one of the newest venues to appear on the Nottingham scene, Brewhouse & Kitchen, located on the northern side of Trent Bridge in a listed building that, in its most recent incarnation had been the Riverbank Bar & Kitchen.

The building has previously operated under a number of different names including Casa, The Aviary and the Town Arms, its first use as a licensed premises having originally been used as the local police station. The recent rebranding and refurbishment has been sympathetic to the building's original features whilst significantly modernising and opening up the interior into a designated dining area with table service and a smaller bar area where bar service is provided. The new features are quirky and interesting with light fittings made from beer bottles and recycled washing machine drums, framed album covers in the toilets and an original canoe mounted on the ceiling in the dining area. This is the newest addition to the B&K chain, which prides itself on brewing its beer in-house and theming its ales after the history of the area in which each premises is based. I was familiar with the chain having visited venues in both Portsmouth and Bristol so I knew roughly what to expect but I was very much looking forward to getting stuck into the brewing process. I had done something similar before at Great Yorkshire Brewery in Cropton around 4 years ago but, in the intervening years, I am confident that my beer knowledge has greatly improved and so I was eager to put it to the test.

I arrived around 9.45 and was immediately introduced to Ben Pearson, head brewer for the venue, who was apparently impressed by my punctuality. A quick cuppa was followed by signing of the obligatory health and safety paperwork and then it was time for my experience to be begin! The brew kit here is located in a prominent location just inside the main entrance where it stands out as a forest of large, copper vessels. Our first task was to begin the brew. The water in the hot liquor tank needed to be transferred to the mash tun in addition to the malt in order to begin the process of allowing the sugars to be broken down and extracted. The water had been already been heated as this is done by the process of a timer which begins the procedure at roughly 4am, in order to ensure that the sufficient temperature has been reached in time for the day's brewing to begin. Ben explained that we would be spending the day brewing Tricky Tree, a 5.5% traditional IPA, named after a nickname for Nottingham Forest, packed with citrus and fruity flavours from 3 different types of hop. But first, we needed to add the malt. Transferring the water into the mash tun, Ben added pale malt whilst I commenced the 'mashing in', which involved standing on a ladder and using a paddle to stir the malt into the hot liquor, ensuring that all of the malt was wet and evenly distributed throughout the mixture. This started off relatively easily but, as more malt was added, the mixture got thicker and heavier and a considerable amount of strength was required to stir the malt in. Along with the high temperature, this was hard work and I'd worked up a significant sweat by the time the mixture had reached the required consistency, resembling that of a malty, delicious-smelling porridge. With all the malt added and stirred in, this could now be left for an hour and a quarter to brew before the next stage took place.

As I recovered from the hard work, Ben explained what other tasks we had to do today. Our next job was sterilising casks and then filling these with beer, something which I had never done but I was looking forward to trying out. This meant heading into the cellar, accessed through a door behind the bar and down a slope which acts a barrel drop, into the basement area which occupies a series of small rooms, which in the building's law enforcement phase, actually acted as the cells. Some of the cell markers are still visible in the brickwork. Ben immediately set me to work using a basin with a high pressure water pump to sterilise empty casks ready for reuse. I was surprised to find out that the brewing procedure here is a one-man operation with Ben having sole responsibility for the end product. Apparently, all the brewing in the chain is done in the same way with one brewer dedicated to each venue, all overseen my a master brewer. Ben himself had recently been helping to cover brewing duties at the company's Bedford venue, where his career with the company had begun following an apprenticeship he'd completed at Oldershaw in Grantham. I was intrigued by the amount of work that one man was responsible for, even just for a single venue, as we began filling the now-sterilised casks. This involved using a long hose that runs from the fermenter, all the way into the back room of the cellar where beer is pumped directly into the empty casks. Before the beer was put into the cask, Ben added finings to each which would then be supplemented by a second addition as the casks were full. Ben explained that this was done more for personal preference than necessity and he was investigating whether the addition of two lots of finings during the barrelling process was significant in affecting beer yield. It didn't take long until the casks were filled and fined and then it was time to knock a shive into each to seal the casks which is harder than it sounds but oddly satisfying. Another half dozen casks later and we returned to the brew kit, where a bacon sandwich awaited was much needed.

The next step in the process was the extraction of the brew from the leftover malt in the mash tun and the transfer of this into the kettle before the addition of the hops. Using a series of pipes, a small container metal tun-like vessel which acted like a filter driven by pumps, we transferred the hot, malty smelling liquid out of the mash tun, switching the pump on and off accordingly as the liquid level changed. To ensure that we got as much sugar as possible from the original mixture, we also carried out a technique called 'sparging'. This involved using a rotating arm that sprays water evenly into the remaining mash, with the aim of flushing any excess sugar out of the mixture in order to get as close to the target ABV as possible. Ben offered me some of the hot liquid to try and it was very sweet and very warming and I was looking forward to seeing how the finished product was going to turn out. Ben now pointed out that it was time for a beer. Briefly heading behind the bar, he returned with 3 thirds of 3 different beers from the Brewhouse range. I enjoyed these as Ben explained about them whilst the sparging was going through its paces. The first of these was Constable (3.9%), a traditional bitter named in honour of the building's original use. This was very drinkable and refreshing, a proper session bitter although Ben said be had been experimenting with the mouthfeel as he was concerned that the finished product was a bit watery to the taste. I, for one, can't see what he's worried about! Next up was 1899 (4.4%), a pale ale that owes its name to the date of the first Test Match between England and Australia at Trent Bridge. This is a classic take on a mid-strength pale with a good balance of malt and hops and a refreshing sweetness on the palate. The final third was Tricky Tree, the beer that I was brewing today. This is a very good IPA with a punchy, citrus flavour and a strong hop aroma, all giving way to a delicious mouthfeel and a smooth finish. If the batch I'm brewing tastes as good as this, I think it will be a hit!

The sparge was over now so we turned on the kettle to allow it to bring the mixture back to temperature before we added the hops to the boil. Whilst this happened, our next task was the one that I'd been dreading: emptying and cleaning the mash tun. This ended up not being as bad as I thought as I used a large tool, similar to a giant fish slice to scrape the mash from the vessel and into 2 rubber buckets. The hard part was disposing of the waste as this meant a walk to the bins at the rear of the building to tip the waste malt away. Ben explained that he had previously tried to arrange with local farmers to come and pick up the waste for use as animal feed but was finding it difficult to rely on them as, more often than not, the promised pickups never happened. So it was that we spent a few minutes conveying the waste malt to the bins as I scraped it out of the tun. Once the majority had been removed, we hosed down the interior before Ben wiped down the inside and removed the floor panels to make it easier to clean. This was then left to dry out. As we waited for the kettle to reach the optimum temperature, I decided that it was time for another beer. The weapon of choice this time was Street Block (4.7%) an American style red rye ale which is amber in colour with a dry, bitter finish and plenty of spicy and aromatic hops. The name comes from residents of West Bridgford who protested about the perceived 'urbanisation' of the area and refused to allow the word 'Street' to be added to any road names as a result. Ben also gave a me a taster of a beer that was currently in the fermenter, Talladega, an American pale ale that is designed to be kegged, and has tonnes of grapefruit flavour from US hops. It's pre-finished state is an interesting fusion of sugary malt and hops and I'll definitely be popping back at a later stage to try the finished article.

We were reaching the business end of the brew now and, with the kettle up to temperature, we were able to add our first batch of hops. Ben prefers to use hop pellets instead of hop leaf and, after collecting the 3 required varieties from the cellar, we measured out the required amount and added them to the boil. First to go in was Chinook, added as a bittering hop. This was then left to come to the boil and left for an hour before the next hops were added. It was lunch break time now so I decided on a lamb and rosemary burger from the delicious burger and opted for a pint of Tricky Tree to wash it down. The burger was amazing and much needed as I hadn't realised how hungry I was! Ben went off to check a couple of things and shortly returned to complete some weekly paperwork as we waited for the first stage of the boil to finish. With the bittering phase now complete, we weighed out the next hop, Cascade, which would be added next to add flavour and impart the strong citrus notes that are the backbone of the beer. These would be left to boil for a few minutes. The addition of the second hop was followed by the addition of a small batch of protein tablets, designed to prevent protein precipitating out into the beer and causing a haze. Shortly after this, the final hop, Mosaic was added. The addition of this hop imparts a fruity aroma and is similar in character to Cascade. The presence of two similar hops in a brew is due to the relationship between smell and taste. Similar flavour and aroma hops ensure a strong continuity of tastes throughout the brew and means that the balance is carried off correctly. The final stage was fast approaching as we waited for the hops to do their job and impart the delicious flavours into the mixture before the whole thing was transferred over to the fermenter where it would be joined by yeast to begin the journey into a completed beer. Whilst we waited for the yeast to settle in the jug that we had prepared for it, the transfer to the fermenter was started, accompanied by yet another beer. This time I went for Calaboose (4.9%), an unfiltered cask pilsner. This is a hazy, straw coloured lager with a light, malty character and spiciness from German hops. It's name comes from an alternative name for a jail, again reflecting the building's original job.

With the mixture transferred to the fermenter and the mash tun and kettle now fully sterilised and ready to be used again, the yeast was finally added and the fermenter sealed. It would now be 3-5 days for the yeast to do it's job as the sugars in the beer were broken down into the alcohol that we so love! With the exception of the addition of a small amount of cold water to correct the gravity (something that Ben had checked prior to the yeast addition), all of the ingredients were in and the brew was complete! All that was left to do was to clean down which meant hosing down the brew area, sterilising any equipment that hadn't been done and ensuring that liquor tank was filled with water recycled from elsewhere in the process, ready for Ben to use again in the morning. I had had a fantastic day! I can honestly say that brewing is something that I really enjoy and I can definitely see it being a potential future career option for myself. I left Brewhouse & Kitchen with a huge smile on my face, some new beer knowledge, new ambition and a mini-keg of 1899 to enjoy at home. I will definitely be visiting this place more frequently, as there are many more beers I need to try and Amy and I are getting married in the upstairs function room so it stands to reason that I should keep coming back to check things out! I urge all of you to do the same!

A Grantham Gallimaufry

This week, I ventured into the fine county of Lincolnshire for its first appearance in this blog, in order to investigate a place that has become synonymous with Thatcher, Newton and manufacturing but is now more known for its recent upsurge in its real ale scene. I speak of course of Grantham, which lies a mere 30-40 minute train journey across the border from Nottingham.

Grantham  is a market town in the South Kesteven district of Lincolnshire. It straddles the London to Edinburgh East Coast Main Line railway and the River Witham and is bounded to the west by the A1 main north–south trunk road. Grantham lies about 23 miles (37 km) south of the city and county town of Lincoln, and about 22 miles (35 km) east of the city of Nottingham. The resident population in 2014 was estimated as 43,117, excluding the adjacent villages of Great Gonerby and Barrowby.
Grantham is notable for being the birthplace of the former UK prime minister Margaret Thatcher, for having educated Isaac Newton at its King's School, for having the first female police officers in the United Kingdom (Edith Smith in 1914), and for producing the first running diesel engine in 1892 and the UK's first tractor in 1896.

Grantham lies close to an ancient Roman road. It was the scene in 1643 of Oliver Cromwell's first win over Royalists during the English Civil War, at Gonerby Moor.
The origin of "Grantham" is uncertain, although the name is said probably to be Old English "Granta+ham", meaning "Granta's homestead". It appeared as early as 1086 in the Domesday Book in its present form of Grantham, but was also recorded variously as Grandham, Granham and Graham. The place name element grand could possibly mean "gravel".
The name of the town is the origin of the Scottish surname, now often used as a given name, Graham.
Late neolithic vessels from a burial were found at Little Gonerby, in the north of the town, in 1875. A number of flint blades have been found, including from near Welham Street to the south-east of the town centre and from near Barrowby where a macehead has also been found. At Little Gonerby a neolithic settlement site was discovered with finds of pottery and flints.
There have been a number of finds of flint and stone tools including palaeolithic hand-axes, from the Cherry Orchard Estate, to the west of the town centre, and from near North Lodge on the hill top south of Barrowby. Mesolithic flints have also been recovered from the Cherry Orchard Estate as well as from sites to the west of Great Gonerby
To the north-east of the town centre a Bronze Age bucket and urn cemetery, with cremation burials and ploughed-out barrows, has been recorded. Bronze Age flint scatters have also been found in several places, particularly on the higher ground near Barrowby. At Saltersford a Bronze Age ingot and a rapier were found. There are also several ring ditches on the higher ground above Saltersford.
According to the Chronicles of Raphael Holinshed, Gorbonianus, a legendary King of the Britons built Grantham between 292 and 282 BC.

The Domesday account notes Queen Edith having 12 carucates to the geld, with no arable land outside the village. She had a hall, two carucates and land for three ploughs without geld, and 111 burgesses. Ivo had one church and four mills rendering 12 shillings, and eight acres of meadow without geld. The lands of Bishop Osmond were described: "In Londonthorpe ... is land for two ploughs. This land belongs to the church of Grantham. In Spittlegate, St Wulfram of Grantham has half a carucate of land to the geld. In Great Gonerby, St Wulfram of Grantham has 1 carucate of land. There is land for twelve oxen."
On 4 December 1290, the funeral cortège of Eleanor of Castile, accompanied by her husband King Edward I, stopped at Grantham on its way from Lincoln to Westminster Abbey. An 'Eleanor Cross' was later erected in the town, although its precise location has not been identified.
In 1363 "The Castles, Manors and towns of Stamford and Grantham" were granted to Edmund of Langley, 1st Duke of York, and fifth son of Edward III of England. The question has been raised as to whether Grantham House was the site of a castle, however, no such site has been reliably identified. The street name "Castlegate" cannot be traced further back than the 17th century. There are references to a Hospital in Grantham as early as the 1330s.
Grantham received its Charter of Incorporation in 1463.

The town developed when the railway came to the town. The Nottingham Line (LNER) arrived first in 1850, then the London line (GNR) – the Towns Line from Peterborough to Retford – arrived in 1852. The Boston, Sleaford and Midland Counties Railway arrived in 1857.
The town received gas lighting in 1833. The corporation became a borough council in 1835. Little Gonerby and Spittlegate were added to the borough in 1879. The town had been in the wapentake of Loveden, and the town included three townships of Manthorpe with Little Gonerby, Harrowby, and Spittlegate with Houghton and Walton.
Grantham Golf Club (now defunct) was founded in 1894. The club continued until the onset of the Second World War.
Until the 1970s the housing estates west of the town centre were green fields. Green Hill, on the A52, was literally a green hill. In July 1975 the National Association of Ratepayers' Action Groups (NARAG) was formed in Grantham by John Wilks, its Chairman, being a forerunner of the TaxPayers' Alliance.

Grantham is notable as being the first place in the world after London to recruit and train women police officers. Grantham was the first provincial force to ask the newly formed Corps of Women's Police Volunteers to supply them with occasional policewomen, recognising them as particularly useful for dealing with women and juveniles. In December 1914 Miss Damer Dawson, the Chief of the Corps, came to Grantham to supervise the preliminary work of the women police. The officers stationed at Grantham were Miss Allen and Miss Harburn. In 1915, Grantham magistrates swore in Mrs Edith Smith, making her the first proper policewoman in Britain with full powers of arrest.

I arrived in Grantham shortly after 11am and quickly got my bearings. Leaving the station, I made my way through a pedestrianised housing estate which eventually led me out onto a main road and from here it was a short walk to my first destination of the day. Situated on a corner of 2 traffic routes, my first stop was the Tollemache Inn.

The first of 2 Good Beer Guide listed pubs on this trip, the Tollemache is the first Wetherspoons to feature in this blog for a few weeks at least and seemed like a good place to start the day's exploration. One of the first Wetherspoons pubs to be opened outside of London, this occupies the former Co-Op building and is a former CAMRA pub of the year. Situated next to the Museum and Arts Centre, this year marks its 3rd consecutive year in the GBG and deservedly so. There is a statue outside the building of the 19th century MP, the Hon. Frederick Tollemache, after whom the pub is named. The interior is laid out in a reverse L with 3 separate entrances, all to the front that lead to an open plan bar area with high tables and chairs and a few small booths in one corner. To the rear, a small flight of steps leads down to a more traditional dining area and the door that leads to the inevitably upstairs toilets. The bar is adorned with 15 hand pumps, in 3 banks of 5, 14 of which are in use at the time that I stop by. Available on the day are Ruddles (x2), Abbot Ale (x2), Sharp's Doom Bar, Adnams Broadside, Nottingham EPA, Nottingham Tolle Tipple (brewed exclusively for the pub), Newby Wyke Black Squall, Newby Wyke White Squall, Newby Wyke Bear Island, Oldershaw Bullion, Milestone Cromwell Bitter and a draught cider, Polgoon Cornish Cider. After a moment's deliberation in the face of so much choice, I eventually opted for the White Squall (4.8%), from Newby Wyke Brewery, which is based in the town itself. This is a blonde hued beer with a hoppy aroma. There are generous amounts of hop well supported by a solid malty undercurrent. This leads to a increasingly bitter tang towards the finish. It's a very tasty beer indeed and it's a good way to start the day. It's also a good way to dry off on what is a thoroughly inclement and miserable day weather wise!

My itinerary for the day had been arranged in such a way that there was little walking time between pubs and I wouldn't stray too far from the station. And so it was that my next location was up the road a little way, noticeable thanks to an unusual feature. Renowned for the only 'living' pub sign in the UK, my next stop was The Beehive.

  

Dating back to the 18th century, this is a two roomed pub most famous for the beehive of South African bees that has existed in the tree out front since the 1830s. This is a unique feature and a point of interest for which the pub is worth seeking out. A terraced beer garden is located to the rear of the pub. Inside, the bar is central with seating around the walls of the main room and a smaller room next door that includes a pool table and a second entrance. 2 of the pub's 3 hand pumps are in use when I arrive, shortly after opening time, offering a choice between Bear Island and Oldershaw Great Expectations. In hopes of keeping things varied, I went for the Great Expectations (4.2%). I was unfamiliar with this beer, from another Grantham based brewery but it turned out to be a pale, gold beer with rich, citrus hops. I took a seat at a table opposite the bar and absorbed the ambience of this cosy place, which features photos of old Grantham decorating the walls as well as a few bits of memorabilia. I was pleased that I'd made the effort to find this place, for the living sign alone but the beer made it even more worthwhile. 

Stop number 3 on the day's trip was a short walk away. Situated on Vine Street, very close to the church of St. Wulfram, is the Blue Pig. 

One of only 2 half-timbered buildings left in the town, the building that is now the Blue Pig, dates from Tudor times and is a survivor of the disastrous fires that swept the area in the 1660s. It was first mentioned as an inn in a trade directory of 1846, when the landlord was Richard Summersby. It then passed into the ownership of the Manners family, whose family crest gives the derivation of blue in the name of this and several other pubs in the local area. A recent internal refurbishment has been sympathetic to the age and appearance of the building. The pub is cosy and divided into a number of small areas with a central bar serving 2 separate rooms. Exposed brickwork and original beams are prominent throughout. The bar features 6 hand pumps, 5 of which are in use, with one being Old Rosie cider and the ales being Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wells Bombardier Burning Gold, Morland's Old Speckled Hen and St. Austell Proper Job. My original choice for the Proper Job was scuppered slightly as the barrel was just being changed over so I went instead for the Old Speckled Hen which was very well kept and went down very easily. I spent my time here perched at a high table just off from the bar. This is a great little place which has managed to retain lots of its original character over the past few hundred years. If reports are to be believed, more than just atmosphere has been retained in the building. The pub made local news in recent years following reports of an apparition seen by the landlady. According to her description, the figure was of a man dressed in red, with a red handkerchief but minus a face seen in the bar area in the early hours of the morning. This is believed to match the description of a previous landlord. Whether this is the same entity that has been responsible for knocking drinks off tables when there is nobody nearby is unclear but it's easy to see why this place may be haunted given its age. 

Next up saw another short walk to the second of the Good Beer Guide listed pubs on the day's list. Located on North Street, opposite a supermarket car park lies a pub that has developed a well deserved reputation for good, local ales. I had now arrived at the brilliantly named Nobody Inn.

Previously known as the Joiners Arms and locally known as Eddie's, this is a superb example of a well run independent pub. The pub has been in the Guide for a number of years and is a frequent winner of Pub of the Year awards, with the most recent accolade being in 2015. It is very popular with both drinkers and sports fans with multiple TV screens able to show multiple events in the case of a fixture clash. The bar sits parallel to the front of the pub with the entrance in one corner. A large, fake spider web with accompanying arachnid takes up space on one wall and old beer pumps decorate various parts of the building alongside other breweriana and old photos. The toilets are hidden behind a bookcase so, if you are visiting, give yourself extra time to find them or come in with an empty bladder. Beer-wise, 5 of the 7 handpulls are in use with 2 of them given over to ciders from Broadoak (Lime and Chilli) and Snail's Bank (Strawberry and Lime). The remaining 3 feature Doom Bar and 2 beers from Newby Wyke in the shape of Sundowner and USS Winston S. Churchill. Sundowner was a new one on me and, eager to try more offerings from this very good brewery, I gave it a try. At 4.4%, this is a pale, crisp citrus ale with slightly fruity and refreshing undertones. It's a good beer in which to avoid another rain shower, especially in quirky surroundings such as these. It's easy to see why this place is so popular. It has the feel of a proper drinkers pub and the bar staff are very knowledgeable and welcoming which is definitely a plus. CAMRA discount is also available so this place is a must!

I deviated slightly from the itinerary for my next location. Whilst on my way to another pub, I almost walked past a pub I'd been unaware of. Being a bit of a sucker for micropubs, I ventured into this one to see what I could find. This particular place was BeerHeadZ. 

This is Grantham's first micropub, opened in March 2016 in a former shop premises. The bar is small and occupies a space at the back of the room. There a number of small tables on the ground floor with a larger space and more seating upstairs signed as 'Headz Up!'. Ales and ciders are served both from chrome, swan-neck hand pumps and direct from casks in the cellar which is through a door behind the bar. 5 of the pumps are in use during the time of my visit, offering an interesting range of beers, namely North Riding Pale Ale V3, Exit 33 Northern Best, Howling Hops Pale No.2, Wild Weather Skadoosh and 3 Blind Mice Russian Blud. After a moment to decide, I ventured away from pale ales for the time being and instead chose the Northern Best (4.2%) from Sheffield based Exit 33. This is a brewed as a traditional Northern English bitter. Dark mahogany in colour, it has a smooth and wonderfully balanced malty base, packed with a rich flavour. It's a welcome change from the pales I've had so far on the day and lives up to its hype. The pub itself is worth shouting about. This is a quiet, comfortable place with friendly regulars and very knowledgeable and hard working staff. I can thoroughly recommend it to anyone who is passing through!

Following this welcome distraction, it was back on track for the next location which is only a few doors down. My next stop was the Black Dog.

This Marston's pub has a large, welcoming interior with lots of furniture throughout and a pool and darts area off to one side. The bar sits in the far back corner and there are TVs throughout, including one in the beer garden. The 4 hand pumps feature beers from the Marston's portfolio, specifically on this occasion, Thwaites' Wainwright, Marston's Pedigree, Wychwood Hobgoblin and Mansfield Bitter. With Hobgoblin available this was an easy choice and the beer was perfectly kept, very dark and smooth. Speaking of dark, something ghostly lurks at this premises. Poltergeist activity has been reported from the bar area, in the form of doors opening and closing of their own accord, stools moving on their own and, somewhat alarmingly, trays of glasses being thrown to the floor. The staff flat above the pub has witnessed pungent smells with no obvious source and another flat, unoccupied for years, has a reputation for growling noises and footsteps and, during attempted renovation work, workmen downed tools and fled after tools were found to be moving by themselves. Needless to say, the renovation of that particular space has never been completed. 

I was excited about the next destination which is one of Grantham's oldest buildings is located almost opposite the previous location. I now made my way to the Angel & Royal Hotel. 

Said to be the oldest inn in England, the façade of the current building is 600 years old although the inn itself was built in 1203 as a hostel for the Knights Templar. It stands on the route of an ancient Roman road, the Roman Ermine Way and would have been a popular stopping point on the long journey from London to Edinburgh. King John held court here in 1213, when the inn was known as the Angel. Richard III, Edward III, Charles I, Oliver Cromwell and George IV are also known to have visited but it took until a visit from Queen Victoria's eldest son Edward, Prince of Wales in 1866 for 'Royal' to be added to the name. Richard III ordered the arrest of his cousin, the Duke of Buckinghamshire whilst sitting in what is now the King's Room restaurant in 1483 and this room features a small staircase in one corner that now leads to nowhere but previously led to the rooftop where the innkeeper and his staff could keep an eye out for the stagecoaches of approaching guests. The fireplace in the Angel Bar is believed to be the original medieval fireplace and has been used to keep visitors warm since it was uncovered during renovation work in 1947. Given the 800 years plus of the building's existence, it's perhaps unsurprising that a couple of guests have not quite moved on. Strange orbs and balls of light have been caught on camera in the restaurant. The figure of a white lady in a slender dress has been seen moving down corridors in the upper part of the building and poltergeist activity has been reported in one of the bedrooms which may the work of a separate mischievous spirit, nicknamed Jasper by the staff. Back in the land of the living and I felt slightly intimidated entering this magnificent building with its hundreds years of history and its original stonework still visible inside. When I eventually found the small public bar, I was pleased to see the presence of 2 hand pumps offering a choice of beers from Oldershaw, namely Sunnydaze and Old Boy. I decided on the Old Boy (4.8%), a full-bodied amber ale, fruity and bitter with a balanced aroma of fruit and hops. The taste is backed by malt flavours that die in the finish. This ancient place is one of the most impressive I've ever visited and invokes memories of the George & Pilgrim in Glastonbury from a previous entry. The fact that, after so many centuries it is still going strong, certainly speaks volumes. 

There was definitely a more modern feel to the next stop on the agenda. Slightly off the High Street, on a street named Butchers Row, is a bar called Chequers.

Formerly known as Barkers, this is a cosmopolitan contemporary bar, currently owned by the Pint Size Pub Company. Inside, the feel is very modern with the island bar to one side, seating opposite and a couple of low sofas tucked into corners. The feel is relaxed and the lighting suitably dimmed. The bar holds 4 hand pumps, 3 of which are in use when I'm there, offering Lilley's Mango Cider, Dark Star Hophead and Kelham Island Easy Rider. I was surprised to see Kelham Island here so it didn't take long for me to decide on the Easy Rider (4.3%). This is pale and straw coloured with a sweetish flavour and delicate hints of citrus fruit. The flavour is soft and not full-bodied, leading to a very delicious beer indeed. I sat away from the bar, on one of the aforementioned sofas, inside the main front window. The beer went down well and the day had so far been a success. With one venue to go, I had high hopes that this would continue.

Last on the list for this particular excursion was a pub that is situated back on the High Street. The day was to end at the Goose. 

Owned by Stonegate, the pub has recently been refurbished to a high standard and features a combination of wooden tables and booths. TVs are located throughout showing a variety of sport including baseball whilst I'm there. The long bar takes up most of one wall and is adorned with 6 handpulls, 5 of which are in use. The beers on offer are Doom Bar (x2), Flipside Sterling Pale and Wells Bombardier with Lilley's Mango Cider on the remaining pump. I opted to finish my day with old, reliable Doom Bar, a beer that I don't think I've ever had a bad pint of. This particular attempt is no exception. I sat in one of the booths, drinking my last beer of the day, attempting and failing to understand baseball on one of the screens nearby. Soon it was sadly time to make my way back to the train station and return home.

What had I learned from my day in Grantham? A few things. Firstly, that there are some great pubs here, some offering what you'd expect from large chains, the others flying the flag for well-run independents. I've also learned that a lot of these pubs have unique quirks that help them stand out and make them drinking destinations. Living pub sign? Check! Toilets behind a bookcase? Check! 800 year old haunted hotel? Check! Grantham isn't a place that I would have associated with real ale at first glance. Research not withstanding, this was effectively a leap into the dark and it paid off handsomely. I can confirm that this Lincolnshire town is worth taking the time to explore. But it still won't help me understand baseball. 

A Critique of Cromford

Hi again folks! Once again, a busy few weeks has limited my ability to get out and about but, with some welcome spare time on my hands, I made the effort this week to make an enjoyable train journey out to the Derbyshire village of Cromford, one stop down the line from Matlock Bath, with the intention of exploring the pubs that lie in the village to see what I might find.
The day I had chosen was an unsettled but not unpleasant Monday, following a few hours of morning work. I was especially excited about this trip as Cromford is a place that I had never visited and I was anxious to see what was on offer and learn more about the location as a whole. Any excuse to be back in beautiful Derbyshire!

Cromford is a village and civil parish, two miles to the south of Matlock in the Derbyshire Dales. The population at the 2011 Census was 1,433. It is principally known for its historical connection with Richard Arkwright, and the nearby Cromford Mill which he built outside of the village in 1771. Cromford is in the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage site.
The River Derwent, with its sources on Bleaklow in the Dark Peak, flows southward to Derby and then to the River Trent. The geology of this section in the Derbyshire Dales is that of limestone. The fast flowing river has cut a deep valley. The A6 trunk road, which was the main road between London and Manchester in former times; the Cromford Canal and the Derwent Valley Line, linking Derby and Matlock, were all built in the river valley. The Via Gellia dry valley joins the Derwent at Cromford.
The A6 passes to the north of the village of Cromford; its land rises from 80m to 150m above mean sea level. It is 27 km north of Derby, 3 km south of Matlock and 1 km south of Matlock Bath. Trains operate from Cromford Station, on the north bank of the Derwent to Derby and Nottingham.
It is one of the significant sites in the development of the Industrial Revolution. Here, Richard Arkwright built his cotton mill to make use of the water frame.
The Gell family, who were local Hopton landowners heavily involved in the nearby Wirksworth lead mining, had the Via Gellia built to connect Cromford and Grangemill in the late 18th century.
Some cottages and farm buildings pre-date Arkwright's time, but a large part of the village was built to house the mill workers. They were provided with shops, pubs, chapels and a school.
The 20th century saw the development of council and private housing. Dene quarry, currently operated by Tarmac Ltd for the production of aggregrates and roadstone, was excavated to the south west of the village from 1942 onwards.
In December 2001 a 15-mile corridor from Masson Mill in Matlock Bath to the Silk Mill in Derby and including the mills in Cromford, Milford, Belper and Darley Abbey was declared the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site.
Cromford railway station can be seen on the cover of the 1995 Oasis single "Some Might Say".

I arrived at the aforementioned train station around 12.20 in the afternoon and immediately began the short (around a mile) walk towards the village centre, passing the historic mills that played so pivotal a role in the village's existence, crossing a bridge over the Derwent as I did so. A short time later, I had arrived in the village proper where 2 of the day's 3 destinations lay in close proximity. The first of these, lying right next to the main road through the village, was The Greyhound.

This three storey sandstone Georgian building is the most prominent in building in Cromford market place. Built by Sir Richard Arkwright, it is named for the black greyhound on the family crest of Phillip Gell. Some locals still refer to the place as the Black Dog. The prominent clock, by Smith of Derby, has been recently restored. The hotel itself has also undergone recent refurbishment and, in addition to its ale selection, has earned a reputation for a large selection of wines, totalling more than 60. The main entrance leads down to the bar which occupies a central spot opposite the main door with an additional entrance to the side car park and seating throughout, divided up into separate areas. The horseshoe shaped bar includes 4 hand pumps, offering a choice in local ales. During my visit these are Derby Brewing Business as Usual, Derby Triple Hop, Blue Monkey BG Sips and Peak Ales Chatsworth Gold. It's been many a year since I tasted beer from the Peak Ales portfolio so the Chatsworth Gold was an obvious choice. Peak Ales is a microbrewery based in a converted barn on the Chatsworth estate, which last featured in these pages during my survey of Bakewell many years ago. Chatsworth carries an ABV of 4.6% and is a golden beer made with honey direct from the estate itself. It boasts a delicate sweetness which is well balanced with bitterness from Goldings and Fuggles hops. It's a delicious beer which certainly starts the day off well, even at the rather steep price of £3.95 for a pint. The beer just about makes up for the cost. The Greyhound is a pleasant place with a comfortable well-decorated interior which makes it hard to leave, so much so that I decided that a second pint was worth the effort, this time opting for Triple Hop from Derby Brewing Co. This is a classically flavoursome pale ale brewed with Goldings, Northdown and Challenger hops. With a relatively low ABV of just 4.1%, this packs a deceptive punch and shows why this beer was a deserved finalist for Champion Beer of Britain.

The second pint went down just as well as the first and soon it was time to head around the corner to my second location. My next stop was The Boat Inn.

Built in 1772 and a pub since 1828, the beamed ceilings and stone walls give the bar a cosy, old world atmosphere. There is a small snug area, dining room and a function room giving space for both diners and drinkers. Home cooked meals are served 12-9pm everyday and there is live music every Friday and Saturday night. The downstairs cellar bar shows live sport and there is a large beer garden to the rear with a separate smoking area, both of which overlook the adjacent mill pond. The small bar features 5 handpulls, on this occasion offering a choice of Chatsworth Gold, cask Worthington's Burton Bridge Damson Porter, Pedigree and Dancing Duck Ay Up. Finding a spot at the bar at which to stand and peruse the options, I decided to start with the Pedigree, which turned out to be a good choice as it was served perfectly and tasted excellent. I took some time to take in my surroundings and was very pleased to see that the pub was dog friendly and there were several dogs around, most of them forlornly watching to see if their owners would provide them with leftovers from the tasty looking food morsels. Having finished my first pint, I next switched to the Ay Up, which was just as it should have been and I was also lucky enough to be able to find a table by the window so I could enjoy the view as well as the beer. The Boat is a very nice and friendly place and the beer was worth the trip.

I had one final stop left on the day's itinerary and this meant a short uphill walk to The Bell Inn.

Around 1800, this house was added onto the end of a terrace of historic cottages built in 1776-7 by Richard Arkwright for workers of his mills. The pub itself has not changed much in 50 years and the tiny snug has a quarry-tiled floor, old fixed seating and service from a hatch. There was an off sales hatch in this area until 2009. The old benches in the public bar still display the maker's labels but the bar counter is modern. The lounge on the left has its own entrance and was created from a private sitting room in the 1950s with many of the fittings dating from that time. The pub is on the list of Historically Important pub interiors and also has a tap room with a TV. I entered the building on the snug side of the bar and immediately spotted the tap room with its separate entrance on the other side where 5 hand pumps sit proudly on the bar. 3 of those are in use at the time of my visit offering Heritage St. Modwen, Bass and Abbot Ale. I was unfamiliar with the St. Modwen so this was definitely worth a shot. Named after the patron saint of Burton on Trent, where the brewery is based, this is a crisp and refreshing blonde beer with a subtle malted biscuit taste and an overall summery flavour, all with an ABV of 4.2%. I walked down the adjoining corridor between both parts of the pub, followed by a lovely Bassett Hound that had decided it wanted to make friends before it was stubbornly dragged away by its owner. The beer was very nice indeed and did not take long to go down at all. I thoroughly enjoyed being in The Bell particularly the doggy company. This was another plus point on what had been a thoroughly worthwhile day.

Cromford might be a little bit out of the way, especially for Nottingham folk, but I can honestly recommend it. The pubs might not necessarily be that numerous but they're certainly charming and the atmosphere is very friendly and cosy with excellent service. The beer choice is interesting and features beers that don't often appear closer to home. On top of that, the scenery and the history of this part of Derbyshire are second to none. If you're looking for a few hours to kill in a close knit community where you're guaranteed a warm welcome and a decent pint, there's one thing you must do. Come to Cromford!

A Cambridge Crawl

9 days on from this blog's first foray into Cambridgeshire, I decided to make the most of some excellent weather and commence a follow-up trip, this time to the fair city of Cambridge, a place I know well from a year working there. During this period, I never fully got the chance to experience the full range of Cambridge pubs, this being in the dark days before I discovered proper beer. It was high time that a thorough exploration was carried out. What follows is by no means a comprehensive look but something of a cross section of what to expect should you ever find yourself here.

Cambridge is a university city and the county town of Cambridgeshire, on the River Cam about 50 miles (80 km) north of London. At the United Kingdom Census 2011, its population was 123,867, including 24,488 students.
There is archaeological evidence of settlement in the area in the Bronze Age and in Roman Britain; under Viking rule, Cambridge became an important trading centre. The first town charters were granted in the 12th century, although city status was not conferred until 1951.
The University of Cambridge, founded in 1209, is one of the top five universities in the world. The university includes the Cavendish Laboratory, King's College Chapel, and the Cambridge University Library. The city's skyline is dominated by the last two buildings, along with the spire of the Our Lady and the English Martyrs Church, the chimney of Addenbrooke's Hospital and St John's College Chapel tower. Anglia Ruskin University, evolved from the Cambridge School of Art and the Cambridgeshire College of Arts and Technology, also has its main campus in the city.
Cambridge is at the heart of the high-technology Silicon Fen with industries such as software and bioscience and many start-up companies born out of the university. More than 40% of the workforce has a higher education qualification, more than twice the national average. The Cambridge Biomedical Campus, one of the largest biomedical research clusters in the world, is soon to be home to AstraZeneca, a hotel and the relocated Papworth Hospital.
Parker's Piece hosted the first ever game of Association football. The Strawberry Fair music and arts festival and Midsummer Fairs are held on Midsummer Common, and the annual Cambridge Beer Festival takes place on Jesus Green. The city is adjacent to the M11 and A14 roads, and Cambridge station is less than an hour from London King's Cross railway station.

Settlements have existed around the Cambridge area since prehistoric times. The earliest clear evidence of occupation is the remains of a 3,500-year-old farmstead discovered at the site of Fitzwilliam College. Archaeological evidence of occupation through the Iron Age is a settlement on Castle Hill from the 1st century BC, perhaps relating to wider cultural changes occurring in southeastern Britain linked to the arrival of the Belgae.
The principal Roman site is a small fort (castrum) Duroliponte on Castle Hill, just northwest of the city centre around the location of the earlier British village. The fort was bounded on two sides by the lines formed by the present Mount Pleasant, continuing across Huntingdon Road into Clare Street. The eastern side followed Magrath Avenue, with the southern side running near to Chesterton Lane and Kettle's Yard before turning northwest at Honey Hill. It was constructed around AD 70 and converted to civilian use around 50 years later. Evidence of more widespread Roman settlement has been discovered including numerous farmsteads and a village in the Cambridge district of Newnham.
Following the Roman withdrawal from Britain around 410, the location may have been abandoned by the Britons, although the site is usually identified as Cair Grauth listed among the 28 cities of Britain by the History of the Britons. Evidence exists that the invading Anglo-Saxons had begun occupying the area by the end of the century. Their settlement—also on and around Castle Hill—became known as Grantebrycge ("Granta-bridge"). (By Middle English, the settlement's name had changed to "Cambridge" and the lower stretches of the Granta changed their name to match.) Anglo-Saxon grave goods have been found in the area. During this period, Cambridge benefited from good trade links across the hard-to-travel fenlands. By the 7th century, the town was less significant and described by Bede as a "little ruined city" containing the burial site of Etheldreda. Cambridge was on the border between the East and Middle Anglian kingdoms and the settlement slowly expanded on both sides of the river.

The arrival of the Vikings was recorded in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle in 875. Viking rule, the Danelaw, had been imposed by 878 Their vigorous trading habits caused the town to grow rapidly. During this period the centre of the town shifted from Castle Hill on the left bank of the river to the area now known as the Quayside on the right bank. After the Viking period, the Saxons enjoyed a return to power, building churches such as St Bene't's Church, wharves, merchant houses and a mint, which produced coins with the town's name abbreviated to "Grant".
In 1068, two years after his conquest of England, William of Normandy built a castle on Castle Hill. Like the rest of the newly conquered kingdom, Cambridge fell under the control of the King and his deputies.
The first town charter was granted by Henry I between 1120 and 1131. It gave Cambridge monopoly of waterborne traffic and hithe tolls and recognised the borough court. The distinctive Round Church dates from this period. In 1209, Cambridge University was founded by students escaping from hostile townspeople in Oxford. The oldest existing college, Peterhouse, was founded in 1284.
In 1349 Cambridge was affected by the Black Death. Few records survive but 16 of 40 scholars at Kings Hall died. The town north of the river was severely affected being almost wiped out. Following further depopulation after a second national epidemic in 1361, a letter from the Bishop of Ely suggested that two parishes in Cambridge be merged as there were not enough people to fill even one church. With more than a third of English clergy dying in the Black Death, four new colleges were established at the university over the following years to train new clergymen, namely Gonville Hall, Trinity Hall, Corpus Christi and Clare.
In 1382 a revised town charter effects a "diminution of the liberties that the community had enjoyed", due to Cambridge's participation in the Peasants' Revolt. The charter transfers supervision of baking and brewing, weights and measures, and forestalling and regrating, from the town to the university. King's College Chapel, was begun in 1446 by King Henry VI. The chapel was built in phases by a succession of kings of England from 1446 to 1515, its history intertwined with the Wars of the Roses, and completed during the reign of King Henry VIII. The building would become synonymous with Cambridge, and currently is used in the logo for the City Council.

Following repeated outbreaks of pestilence throughout the 16th Century, sanitation and fresh water were brought to Cambridge by the construction of Hobson's Conduit in the early 1600s. Water was brought from Nine Wells, at the foot of the Gog Magog Hills, into the centre of the town.
Cambridge played a significant role in the early part of the English Civil War as it was the headquarters of the Eastern Counties Association, an organisation administering a regional East Anglian army, which became the mainstay of the Parliamentarian military effort before the formation of the New Model Army. In 1643 control of the town was given by Parliament to Oliver Cromwell, who had been educated at Sidney Sussex College. The town's castle was fortified and garrisoned with troops and some bridges were destroyed to aid its defence. Although Royalist forces came within 2 miles (3 km) of the town in 1644, the defences were never used and the garrison was stood down the following year.
In the 19th century, in common with many other English towns, Cambridge expanded rapidly, due in part to increased life expectancy and improved agricultural production leading to increased trade in town markets. The Inclosure Acts of 1801 and 1807 enabled the town to expand over surrounding open fields and in 1912 and again in 1935 its boundaries were extended to include Chesterton, Cherry Hinton, Fen Ditton, Trumpington, and Grantchester.
The railway came to Cambridge in 1845 after initial resistance, with the opening of the Great Eastern Railway's London to Norwich line. The station was outside the town centre following pressure from the university to restrict travel by undergraduates. With the arrival of the railway and associated employment came development of areas around the station, such as Romsey Town. The rail link to London stimulated heavier industries, such as the production of brick, cement and malt.
From the 1930s to the 1980s, the size of the city was increased by several large council estates. The biggest impact has been on the area north of the river, which are now the estates of East Chesterton, King's Hedges, and Arbury where Archbishop Rowan Williams lived and worked as an assistant priest in the early 1980s.
During the Second World War, Cambridge was an important centre for defence of the east coast. The town became a military centre, with an R.A.F. training centre and the regional headquarters for Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex, Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire, Hertfordshire, and Bedfordshire established during the conflict. The town itself escaped relatively lightly from German bombing raids, which were mainly targeted at the railway. 29 people were killed and no historic buildings were damaged. In 1944, a secret meeting of military leaders held in Trinity College laid the foundation for the allied invasion of Europe. During the war Cambridge served as an evacuation centre for over 7,000 people from London, as well as for parts of the University of London.
Cambridge was granted its city charter in 1951 in recognition of its history, administrative importance and economic success. Cambridge does not have a cathedral, traditionally a prerequisite for city status, instead falling within the Church of England Diocese of Ely. In 1962 Cambridge's first shopping arcade, Bradwell's Court, opened on Drummer Street, though this was demolished in 2006. Other shopping arcades followed at Lion Yard, which housed a relocated Central Library for the city, and the Grafton Centre which replaced Victorian housing stock which had fallen into disrepair in the Kite area of the city. This latter project was controversial at the time.
The city gained its second University in 1992 when Anglia Polytechnic became Anglia Polytechnic University. Renamed Anglia Ruskin University in 2005, the institution has its origins in the Cambridge School of Art opened in 1858 by John Ruskin. The Open University also has a presence in the city, with an office operating on Hills Road.

I was very excited to see what the city's myriad interesting and unique pubs had to offer, especially as the day I had chosen for my trip was the hottest of the year so far. I arrived by train just before midday and set about finding my bearings and getting used to how much had changed since I was last here 6 years ago. Orienting myself around the main road that runs directly into the city centre I set to my task. My first location was somewhat off the beaten track and required walking down a number of side roads to a small housing estate. The first pub on my list for the day was The Alma.

This is a low-ceilinged pub with the remains of former walls and some supporting columns but is essentially open-plan with bar floorboards and wood-panelled wainscoting below cream walls. Sport is very popular here with rugby taking centre stage, as evidenced by the memorabilia and shirts mounted on the walls. The pub once boasted a water-filled phone box and a single piranha but these are now sadly gone. To compensate though, the beer choice isn't bad. 6 handpulls are mounted on the bar that occupies one back corner of the room. On the day of my visit the choice is between Oakham JHB, Alma Rugby Beer which I suspect is a rebadged beer from owner Greene King, Greene King Mighty Moose, Greene King IPA, Evan Evans Brittania and, randomly, Castle Rock Harvest Pale. I decided on the Brittania from Welsh brewer Evan Evans, a 4.6% golden ale which has been specially brewed to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the brewery itself. It's a smooth tasting brew with a good balance of bitterness and sweet undertones and it starts the day off nicely.

My next stop was back on the main road and a few minutes later I had arrived at The Emperor.

Formerly known as the Globe, this recently rebranded and refurbished pub now bills itself as a Latin tapas bar. The single bar features smart, unfussy décor with high tables by the windows and a reasonably sized beer garden to the rear. The floors are bare-boarded and the pub benefits from its location on the main road between the train station and the city centre proper. The bar includes 4 handpulls, 3 of which are in use at the time of my visit, offering a choice of Purity Mad Goose, Cotleigh Tawny Owl and Long Man American Pale. On this occasion, I decided on the American Pale, courtesy of Sussex based Long Man Brewery. Made from US hops, this is a triple-hopped pale ale with a pleasant citrus fruit aroma and a characteristic robust bitterness, all packed into an ABV of 4.8%. I took a seat at a high table with a view onto what was a very busy road as people on their lunch breaks took in the sunshine. Given more time, I would have been interested in trying the food here as I'm not sure what a Latin tapas would involve but it sounded intriguing. However, needs must and there was more beer to be drunk.

Luckily, my next destination was a bit further down the road, where road name changes to Regent Street. Effectively a micropub, I was now at The Old Bicycle Shop.


Located in the former Howe's bicycle shop (hence the name), this became the 3rd pub operated by the local City Pub Company when it opened in May 2016. 2 others have followed since with another in the pipeline. Decorated with memorabilia that recalls its former life, this is an attractive little place that also includes a wood-panelled room for private dining upstairs. The majority of the space is designed for dining but is a decent sized drinking area to the front. The bar features 4 handpulls, 3 of which are ales in the form of Cambridge Brewing Sweet Chariot, Dark Star Partridge and Adnams Ghost Ship, with Lilley's Strawberry Cider available for those who prefer their alcohol direct from apples. In the mood for something local but this time of the day, I went for the Sweet Chariot (4.5%), a take on an IPA with a good citrus hit and a good amount of sweetness from a big kick of hops. I sat in a corner just inside the door, looking into the room where a number of locals were enjoying an early lunch. This is a decidedly quirky venue with friendly staff and certainly makes a good, albeit recent, addition to the local ale scene.

The next part of the journey was a part that I was very much looking forward to as it involved a number of pubs in a particularly picturesque part of the city. Whilst it required a bit of a walk to get there, I was confident that it would be worth it once I'd had the opportunity to sample the beers. The first of these was the first on this trip to feature in the current Good Beer Guide and is a sister pub to the Old Bicycle Shop. Set in a honeypot location on the bank of the river, is the Mill.

This smallish pub was carefully refurbished by City Pub Company in summer 2012. Amongst the improvements was a newly-created, wood-panelled side room and a new wood-block top to the bar. The pub is now free of tie and is committed to locally brewed beers and even has a vintage radiogram for playing vinyl records. CAMRA awards are mounted on the wall behind the bar including District Pub of the Year 2015 and LocALE City Pub of the Year 2017. Beers are available from 8 handpumps, 7 of which were in use during my visit. Amongst the variety of beers on offer were Nene Valley Australian Pale, Brewsters Pull the other One, Adnams Broadside, Tydd Steam Barn Owl, Cambridge Brewing Natural Born Millers and Adnams Southwold Bitter with Weston's Cider also available. Beers can served for drinking both inside and, if you don't mind plastic glasses, outside on nearby Laundress Green. With such a wide and interesting choice, I needed a moment to decide upon which one would be for me. In the end, I decided on the Australian Pale from Nene Valley Brewery. At 4.4%, this rich, golden ale has a floral aroma that precedes into citrus and tropical fruit from the use of Australian Galaxy hops. After the walk, I needed something refreshing and this certainly did the trick, going down very easily, whilst I watched a Cocker Spaniel try and score food from another customer's plate.

It was soon time to move on again and my next stop was a short walk away down a short alleyway between streets. Located on Silver Street, and overlooking the famous Mill Pond, I had now arrived at The Anchor.

Recently transferred over to Greene King's Real Pub brand, the Anchor has been refurbished to accommodate their interpretation of a traditional alehouse. This is a large pub that rambles over 4 levels with a food-oriented bar at the top and a smallish lobby/lounge at ground level that features comfy chairs, padded benches an imitation fire and polished floorboards. Downstairs from this is the split-level Riverside Bar, once home to a Jazz Club frequented by Roger Barratt who so admired one of the local musicians, his namesake Sid Barrett that he changed his own name to Syd and went on to found a certain band by the name of Pink Floyd. The building itself dates from 1843 when part of the site was used for mooring boats, hence the name. The bar itself features 5 handpulls, 2 of which are being used whilst I'm there offering a choice between the house beer Steadfast and Oakham JHB. On this occasion, I opted for the JHB which was very well kept and delicious. The pub was very full as it was now mid-afternoon but I managed to find a high stool near a window that looks out onto the river where couples and small groups were enjoying the chance to go punting.

The next location of the day was a pub that is swimming in history, somewhere that I had been to on a couple of previous occasions and was very excited about going back to. Slightly further from the river, around the corner from the imposing King's College Chapel is the historic Eagle.


Probably the most famous pub in Cambridge, the Eagle is known for its galleried courtyard, its RAF Bar with signatures of former airmen covering the ceiling and for being the place where, in February 1953, James Watson and Francis Crick announced their discovery of the structure of DNA, an event marked by a plaque outside. A window at the back of the pub has been open constantly for 300 years after a child is believed to have died in a fire after being unable to escape. The child, believed to be a young girl, may have never actually left the premises as visitors and staff have reported feeling the presence of a child around the pub where she is believed to nudge people on the staircase that leads to the toilets. For a time in the early 90s the future of the pub was in doubt because of possible redevelopment but common sense prevailed and the pub reopened in 1992. The price to pay for this was a major expansion of the original two-bar layout to incorporate former office premises fronting the street. This work was carried out sensitively and the newer areas fit in very well with the overall feel of the building. Both bars features a variety of handpumps, with the 7 in the main bar offering Timothy Taylor Landlord, Abbot Ale, Cotleigh 25, Eagle's DNA (rebadged Morland's Original), Greene King Amarillo, Greene King Ale-Fresco and IPA. The RAF Bar to the rear, full when I was there, includes 5 handpumps with a choice between Greene King IPA, London Glory, Abbot Ale, Belhaven Wembley 67 and Landlord. The RAF Bar also comes with the added bonus of localised ghostly activity as many customers have reported their drinks spontaneously spilling for no reason as if deliberately knocked over by unseen hands, activity that is allegedly linked to the aforementioned airmen and women. Beer-wise, I opted for the Ale-Fresco. This is a light and refreshing seasonal beer with tropical fruit and lemon citrus notes and a moderate amount of bitterness which is deceptive for a beer that comes in at only 4.3%. Unable to get a table in the RAF Bar, I sat on a table in one corner opposite the main bar near the toilets with an open window on my right allowing me a view into the covered courtyard. The Eagle is a cracking place and worth a visit for those with a historical interest as well as those that are looking for a good pint.

Once again, despite my reluctance to leave The Eagle, it was time to wander on and this meant a short walk past King's College before turning left on to Bridge Street and back towards the river. My next stop was The Mitre.

Standing on the site of what was previously two inns, the pub has been known as The Mitre since 1881. The last vestiges of its former ale-house look disappeared following refurbishment in 2011 and the interior now boasts a smart and contemporary style with a dining area down steps to the rear. The pub is now part of the Nicholson's chain and the bar includes 8 handpulls. On offer at the time of my trip were Nicholson's Pale (brewed by St. Austell), Adnams Southwold, Doom Bar, Brakspear Oxford Gold, Thornbridge Jaipur, Timothy Taylor Dark Mild, By the Horns Hop Air Balloon and Adnams Fat Sprat. The Mitre was always a favourite pub of mine and I was relishing another chance to have pint within its walls. The pint of choice was Hop Air Balloon (4.2%), a seasonal beer from London's By the Horns. Brewed to commemorate the memory of the Royal Air Force '2nd Kite Balloon Section' a military division that manned observation balloons in WWI and suffered every losses, Hop Air Balloon is a light and easily drinkable session IPA with a strong hit of hops to the front of the brew. I was enjoying my day in Cambridge and my return to The Mitre had been too long in coming.

The nostalgia continued at the next pub. Located dangerously close to the waterline and adjacent to the bridge after which the city is named, in my favourite part of Cambridge, is the Pickerel.

One of several claimants to be the oldest pub in Cambridge and named after a baby pike, the Pickerel is named as an ale-house as early as 1632 with the building itself dating from the turn of that century although a carved beam in the bar dated to 1450 shows grapes suggesting that it may been in use as a drinking den even earlier. In 1879, the Pickerel Hotel along with its stable block, brewery and outbuildings were purchased by Magdalene College for £287. Previously documented as being a gin palace, an opium den and a brothel, the Pickerel was also a favourite watering hole for both C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien. The interior of the pub has been much altered with only portions of the internal walls remaining from must have initially been a warren of small rooms. Some of the old features remain, including roof beams, old brickwork and a fireplace and there is a reasonably-sized eating area outside. There are 10 handpulls on the bar, which offer Greene King IPA, Elgood's Golden Newt, Wantsum Fortitude, Woodforde's Nelson's Revenge (x2), Woodforde's Wherry (x2), Old Speckled Hen, Wolf Lavender Honey and Woodforde's Lamplighter. The name alone was enough to draw me to Nelson's Revenge (4.5%), a powerful malty beer with a great depth of flavour and an appealing hoppy aftertaste. It went down very well indeed in the sunshine as I braved an outside for the first time today. The Pickerel is certainly an atmospheric pub befitting its wide history. Some of the history still lingers if tales are to be believed. Back in the day, maintaining a successful tavern was an even harder job than it is now and it is alleged that 2 landlords were unable to cope with the stress and ended their own lives by hanging from a hook in the cellar. Their recurring presence is indicated on the odd occasion by the telltale smell of opium in the area. More visual and more disturbing is the tale of a barmaid who was accidentally drowned in the river which is perilously close by and is still seen running silently down the passageway in a spectral echo of her last journey. If any place in Cambridge were to be haunted, it would certainly be this one.

Less spirits and more beers were on offer at the next location which was reached by a short walk up the hill and round the corner onto Pound Hill. Next stop The Punter.
 

The pub's location, a short distance from the Cambridge Backs, gives it it's current name, although it has previously been known as both the Town & Gown and the Sino Tap. It is an attractive pub with a suntrap of a courtyard and separate stables that have been transformed into dining and function rooms. The bar is directly by the door as you enter with seating throughout and a door to the rear that leads to the courtyard. 3 of the 4 handpulls are in use during my visit, with a choice of Turpin's Cambridge Black, Adnams Mosaic Pale and Ghost Ship. I chose the latter and this turned out to be a wise option as it was as good as it should be. This is a pleasant little pub with a lot of character and charm to recommend it.

The next stage of the itinerary meant a considerable walk from side of the city to the other, passing Jesus Green where this year's beer festival was in full swing, an irony not lost on me although I hadn't thought to check the dates when I planned this specific excursion. Following a 40 minute stroll in what was calm and very pleasant weather conditions, I following managed to locate my next destination, one which was a place I'd heard excellent things about: the renowned Cambridge Blue.

This Good Beer Guide listed pub is continually popular, with its single bar and its side street location. It has a large extension that leads to the garden and a marquee that is heated in colder weather. The decoration is provided by pump clips and a collection of breweriana and the pub was winner of Cider Pub of the Year 2016 and Cambridge University Real Ale Society Pub of the Year 2017. An impressive 14 handpulls occupy the bar and 13 of these are available during the time of my trip. My options are varied, namely Dark Star Hophead, Dark Star Pale Ale, Nene Valley Jim's Little Brother, Nene Valley Simple Pleasures, One Mile End Temperance, Simon's Cider The Pink One, Crouch Vale Ruby Mild, Titanic Plum Porter, Arbor Shangri-La, Downlands Papa Jr., Woodforde's Wherry, Stockport Stout and Fyne Ales Gentleman Jack. Bristol-based Arbor get my vote this time with their Shangri-La (4.2%), a liberally hopped session IPA with big flavours courtesy of Citra, Equinox, Columbus and Mosaic hops. The popularity of this pub is obvious by the number of people that are in considering it's only early evening on a Friday, It's always good to see a pub like this thriving and providing lots of interesting beers for the enquiring drinker.

My next location was the result of a last minute change of a plan as I realised I'd managed to completely walk past it on the way to the previous stop. Baffled as to how I'd missed it, I decided it would be rude not to pop into The Petersfield.

The former White Hart became the acclaimed Backstreet Bistro in 2004 but returned to being a pub in February 2017 when it became City Pub Company's 5th pub in Cambridge. The entrance leads into a large L-shaped main bar decorated in a fairly traditional manner with modern touches including a entire ceiling decorated with wine bottles. There is a smaller, more intimate room behind the bar. The bar includes 5 handpumps which, at the time of my visit, offer Nene Valley Hop Stash, Three Blind Mice No Nonsense, Cambridge Night Porter, Nene Valley Simple Pleasures and Ghost Ship. I went back to the Nene Valley beers now, this time deciding on the Hop Stash. This is a big hitting American style IPA with citrus punchiness and fruity aromas giving way to a smooth malty finish, all for 5%. The Petersfield was an interesting surprise and I was glad that I added it to the list. The day was drawing on and I still had 2 locations left before I made my way back to the train station.

My penultimate stop was only a short walk away on Kingston Street at the aptly named Kingston Arms.

This classic side street pub lies a short distance from the popular Mill Road and is itself popular with both diners and drinkers, as well as being Good Beer Guide listed. The interior benefits from windows and mirrors, keeping it light and airy. The seating is a mixture of simple tables and chairs as well as bar stools. There is a walled garden to the rear with canopies and heaters and the front even has cycle-racks. The bar is compact but boasts an impressive mix of beers spread over 13 handpulls. For my delectation and delight were Thornbridge Jaipur, Crouch Vale Brewers Gold, Hop Back Summer Lightning, Oakham JHB, Woodforde's Wherry, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Mighty Oak Oscar Wilde, Acorn Gorlovka, Siren Sound Wave IPA, Gene Pool Paleo, Elland White Prussian, Farmhouse Rhubarb Cider and Haymaker Cider. There were a lot of beers and breweries that I was unfamiliar with so choosing a beer took a while. In the end, I went for White Prussian from Elland Brewery. At 3.9%, this is a crisp, clean and refreshing beer made from lager malt and German hops. This provides a fruity flavour with a floral, spice and citrus aroma and a pale straw colour. Previously a seasonal beer, its popularity has seen it added to the brewery's core range. It's easy to see why as there is a lot of flavour packed into a low ABV and it goes down very well indeed.

There was time for one final venue and luckily I felt like I'd found an ideal one. Another GBG listed pub, my last stop was the Devonshire Arms.

The former Midland Tavern was rescued from decline and opened in 2010 as Milton Brewery's first pub in Cambridge. A deceptively large pub in defiance of the small frontage, there are also front and rear patios. Inside, it was impressively renovated with front and rear drinking areas offering a mixture of wooden booths and larger tables. The tall windows and high ceiling add light to the front area. As to be expected from a pub run by Milton Brewery, the majority of the 8 handpulls come from them, specifically Marcus Aurelius, Pegasus, Dionysus, Medusa and Tiberius with the remaining 3 pumps offering Great Heck Amish Mash, Slightly Foxed Bengal Fox and Spitting Feathers Session Beer. My final beer of the day was Tiberius (4.3%). This rich, bronze coloured beer has a deep malty flavour and is offset by a pleasantly hoppy aroma. There are a few regulars in the pub as I sit and enjoy my last beer of the day and it's clear that Milton Brewery have done as good a job of turning this pub around as they have of brewing excellent beers. It's the perfect way to end the day.

What can be said about Cambridge? It's a fantastic place as I hope this 13 out of the hundreds of pubs in the city will testify. There is plenty of scope for further trips to this fine city and there are many drinking establishments left to explore which will no doubt further cement the strength of the ale scene here. Admittedly, prices can be high but it's effectively what you'd expect for an area this close to London. Don't let the cost deter you from going here. Cambridge is not only a highly popular tourist destination but also, as this cross section makes clear, a superb place to wile away an afternoon with a few pints in some interesting, historic and unique venues. Long live the Cambridge set!