Monday, September 11, 2017

A Mish-Mash in Melton

Last week, I returned to Leicestershire with the aim of exploring a town that is known more for its locally produced food than it is for its ale. On an unsettled Wednesday, I made my way to Melton Mowbray.
Melton Mowbray  is a town in Leicestershire, 19 miles (31 km) northeast of Leicester, and 20 miles (32 km) southeast of Nottingham. The town is on the River Eye and the River Wreake and has a population of 25,554.
The town is best known for its culinary speciality, the Melton Mowbray pork pie, and it is one of the six homes of Stilton cheese. Melton Mowbray is promoted as the "Rural Capital of Food".

The name comes from the early English word Medeltone – meaning "Middletown surrounded by small hamlets" (and therefore has the same origin as Milton and Middleton). Mowbray is a Norman family name – the name of early Lords of the Manor – namely Robert de Mowbray.
In and around Melton, there are 28 scheduled ancient monuments, around 705 buildings listed as having special architectural or historical interest, 16 sites of special scientific interest, and several deserted village sites.
There is industrial archaeology including the Grantham Canal and the remains of the Melton Mowbray Navigation. Windmill sites, ironstone working and smelting archaeological evidence suggest that Melton borough was densely populated in Bronze and Iron Ages. Many small village communities existed and strategic points at Burrough Hill and Belvoir were fortified. There is also evidence to suggest that the site of Melton Mowbray in the Wreake Valley was inhabited before Roman occupation (43 AD).
In Roman times, due to the close proximity of the Fosse Way and other important Roman roads, military centres were set up at Leicester and Lincoln; and intermediate camps were also established, for example, Six Hills on the Fosse Way. Other Roman track ways in the locality passed north of Melton along the top of the vale of Belvoir scarp; they linked Market Harborough to Belvoir, and linked the Fosse Way to Oakham and Stamford.
Evidence of settlement throughout Anglo-Saxon and Danelaw period (8th/9th centuries) is reflected in many place names. Along the Wreake Valley, the Danish suffix "-by" is common, as is evident in Asfordby, Dalby, Frisby, Hoby, Rearsby and Gaddesby. In addition, a cemetery of 50–60 graves, of Pagan Anglo-Saxon origin, was found in Melton Mowbray. Although most villages and their churches, had origins before the Norman Conquest of 1066, stone crosses at Asfordby and Sproxton churches and Anglo-Saxon cemeteries as found at Goadby Marwood, Sysonby and Stapleford, are certainly pre-Conquest.
Melton Mowbray itself had six recorded crosses the construction of which spanned several centuries: (i) Kettleby Cross, (close to the present filling station near the junction of Dalby Road to the Leicester Road), (ii) Sheep Cross, on what was Spital End, (now Nottingham Street/Park Road Junction), (iii) Corn Cross at the Swine Lane/Spittle End junction, (reconstructed and reinstated on the Nottingham St/High St junction in 1996 as a memorial to the Royal Army Veterinary Corps), (iv) Butter Cross or High Cross, at the west end of Beast Market (again reconstructed from partial remains of the original Saxon cross in 1986/7 in the Market Place), (v) Sage Cross, at the East end of the Beast Market close to Saltgate, (on Sherrard Street opposite Sage Cross Street), and (vi) Thorpe Cross at the end of Saltgate (near the junction of Thorps Road and Saxby Road). All the original crosses were removed or destroyed during the reformation and other periods of iconoclasm or simply to make room for traffic or other development.

The effects of the Norman conquest are recorded in the 1086 Domesday Book. This document indicates that settlements at Long Clawson and Bottesford were of noteworthy size; and that Melton Mowbray was a thriving market town of some 200 inhabitants, with weekly markets, two water mills and two priests. The water mills, still in use up to the 18th century, are remembered by the present names of Beckmill Court and Mill Street.
Melton Mowbray has been a market town for over 1,000 years. Recorded as Leicestershire's only market in the 1086 Domesday Survey, it is the third oldest market in England. Tuesday has been market day ever since royal approval was given in 1324. The market was established with tolls before 1077.
Legacies from the Medieval period include consolidation of village and market town patterns; in Melton Mowbray, Bottesford, Wymondham, and Waltham-on-the-Wolds. The latter had a market in medieval times that continued until 1921, and an annual fair of horses and cattle. Many buildings in Melton Market Place, Nottingham Street, Church Lane, King Street and Sherrard Street have ancient foundations. Alterations to number 16 Church Street revealed a medieval circular stone wall subjected to considerable heat. This is probably the 'Manor Oven' mentioned in 13th century documents. Surveys of 5 King Street show it to be part of an early medieval open-halled house. It may be part of the castle or fortified Manor of the Mowbrays, which existed in the 14th century.
King Richard I and King John visited the town and may have stayed at an earlier castle. In 1549 following the Dissolution of the chantries, monasteries and religious guilds, church plate was sold and land purchased for the town. Resulting rents were used to maintain Melton School; first recorded in 1347 and one of the oldest educational establishments in Britain. Funds were also used to maintain roads, bridges and to repair the church clock.
Anne of Cleves house, now a Public House, is a Grade II* listed building.

During the English Civil War, Melton was a Roundhead garrison commanded by a Colonel Rossiter. Two battles were fought in the town: in November 1643, Royalists caught the garrison unaware and carried away prisoners and booty; in February 1645, Sir Marmaduke Langdale, commanding a Royalist force of 1,500 men, inflicted severe losses on the Roundheads. Around 300 men were said to have been killed. According to legend a hillside where the battle was thought to have been fought was ankle deep in blood, hence the name 'Ankle Hill'. However, this name is mentioned in documents pre-dating the Civil War. Furthermore, in the past, the names of Dalby Road and Ankle Hill have been switched around, thus confusing the true site of the battle.
Local notable families seem to have had divided loyalties, although the War ended with great rejoicings outside the "Limes" in Sherrard Street, home of Sir Henry Hudson. His father, Robert Hudson founded the "Maison Dieu" almshouses opposite the Church in 1640, which complement the stone built "Anne of Cleves House" opposite. This was built in 1384 and housed chantry priests until the Dissolution. It was then included in the estates of Anne of Cleves by Henry VIII, as a divorce settlement in the 16th century, although there is local debate about whether she ever stayed there or not. Anne of Cleves' house is now a public house which is owned by Everards Brewery.

Stilton cheese originated near Melton Mowbray, and is still made in the town today. Stilton cheese takes its name from the village of Stilton in Huntingdonshire, where it was marketed to travellers on the Great North Road, though no Stilton was ever made there.
Melton Mowbray pork pies are made with a specific "hand-raising" process and recipe. On 4 April 2008 the European Union awarded the Melton Mowbray pork pie Protected Geographical Indication status, following a long-standing application made by the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association. As a result of this ruling pies made only within a designated zone around Melton, and using uncured pork, are allowed to carry the Melton Mowbray name on their packaging.
The fox hunting crowd also left their mark on the town in a different way, through their "high jinks". Out celebrating a successful hunt in 1837, the 3rd Marquess of Waterford and his hunting party found several tins of red paint which they daubed liberally on to the buildings of the High Street, some traces of which can still be seen on doors of older buildings in the town.
There is also a picture labelled "A Spree at Melton Mowbray." and subtitled "or doing the Thing in a Sporting-like manner". It is dated 1837, the same date as the Marquess' event. It appears to take place on what is now called Leicester Street and depicts men in hunting clothes climbing on Swan Porch (a building in the market place), fighting and a gentleman apparently being robbed. There is no mention of any red paint. Of course this sort of thing may have been common in Melton Mowbray at that time and there is no evidence that the picture depicts the same events. What is certain is that the physical evidence appears to support the town was painted red. However this does not necessarily mean that the phrase "painting the town red" came from the event, and according to the Oxford English Dictionary, the phrase originated in the United States in the late nineteenth century.
The Melton Mowbray event was recorded as happening in the early hours of 6 April 1837. It was later recorded in the London Examiner. Henry Alken's pictures A Spree at Melton Mowbray and Larking at the Grantham Tollgate are said to illustrate the event. The events were depicted in a play called The Meltonians at The Theatre Royal, Drury Lane in 1838.

Melton Mowbray is home to Melton cloth (first mentioned in 1823), which is a tight-woven woollen cloth that is heavily milled, and a nap raised so as to form a short, dense, non-lustrous pile. Sailors' pea coats are traditionally made of Melton cloth, the universal workmans' donkey jackets of Britain and Ireland and in North America, loggers' "cruising jackets" and Mackinaws.

I'd only ever been to Melton once before when I'd accompanied George to a meeting at the local Wetherspoons. I was looking forward to getting a proper opportunity to explore what other pubs were on offer in this historic. Arriving by train, following a change at Leicester, I emerged into Melton around lunchtime and immediately set about finding my first intended stop on this journey. A short walk from the train station, sticking out like a sore thumb, was the building now known as the Anne of Cleves.




One the most historic pubs both in the town and in the Everards estate, part of this building dates back to 1327, when it was home to monks. The house was gifted to Anne of Cleves as part of her divorce settlement with Henry VIII, although there is some debate as to whether she ever lived in it. Thomas Cromwell, chancellor to Henry VIII is known to have lived in the house until his death in 1540. This is now a very popular pub, following a conversion and restoration in 1996. There are stone-flagged floors, exposed beams and wall tapestries throughout. Other elements of the past are thought to still linger within the property, in the form of  unexplained sightings of a white lady seen in the award-winning garden and a man sitting on a bench near the back door. Staff have also reported feeling an unseen dog brushing up against them in certain areas of the pub. It's certainly a very old and atmospheric place and I was greeted by the warmth from a log fire as I entered through a low doorway into the bar area. The bar sits along one wall with seating opposite and an area to one side that is set up for dining. A low entrance to a snug sits to the left hand side. The drinking and dining area both have entrances to the street outside. Being an Everards property, their presence is significant across the 7 handpulls on the bar, offering Old Original, Tiger (doubled up), Myrtle and Beacon Hill, alongside Slaughter House Wild Boar and Weston's Reserve Cider. I was unfamiliar with the Myrtle, so I decided that this was a good place to dive into whatever Melton Mowbray had to offer. Named after a famous chicken that was the mascot of the 10th Airborne Regiment and perished at the Battle of Arnhem, Myrtle is a dark red beer, brewed with Pilot and Flyer hops and boasting treacle-toffee and caramel notes. It's so dark red that it almost appears black and is a very warming brew, perfect for supping by an open fire. It's easily drinkable, with an ABV of 4% and has certainly got the day off to a good start!

As reluctant as I was to leave this very welcoming place, there was much more to see. I now made my way towards the market place where I turned off into Nottingham Street, where my next location was located. Next up was the Half Moon.



Located next door to one of Melton's many pork pie shops, this is a long and narrow, two-roomed pub with a half-timbered frontage. The main bar starts off at ground level but then climbs up steps to a higher level with the serving area at the top and lounge seating and a pool table through to the rear. There is a large TV showing horse racing when I arrive and a jukebox playing AC/DC at the only acceptable volume (i.e. bastard loud). The small bar abuts one corner of the top area and features 2 handpulls, with a choice of either Greene King IPA or draught Bass. I opted for the IPA and this was drinking well, and well kept. This pub is an odd little place with the street level area bringing an olde worlde feel to the building.

My next stop was the only pub in Melton that I had prior knowledge of. Heading back through the market place, I made my way slightly further across town to Wilton Road and the obligatory trip to Wetherspoons. The pub in question is The Kettleby Cross.



The local entry into the Wetherspoons estate is a purpose built 'eco pub' completed in 2007 and featuring a wind turbine on the roof. The Good Beer Guide listed pub stands close to the bridge over the River Eye and is named after the cross that used to direct travellers in the direction of Ab Kettleby. The layout is that of a large room spread over two levels, divided by a couple of steps. The bar is long and situated along most of one wall. 10 handpulls take centre stage with 6 taken up by doubles of regular beers, namely Abbot Ale, Doom Bar and Greene King IPA. The remainder are given over to guests, on this occasion Milestone Shine On, Brewster's Hophead, Purity Mad Goose and Newby Wyke Sundowner. I opted for the Mad Goose, a personal favourite of mine, and this was very well kept, being a zesty, pale ale with a smooth and citrusy finish, in a package of 4.2%. I took a seat at a high table near the bar and reminisced about my last visit here when George and I watched England v Wales in the Six Nations whilst we waited for his meeting. That was a good day and this was shaping up to be just as good.

From here, I made my way around the corner and looped around behind a nearby retail park before turning right onto St. Mary's Way where my next destination is located. Next stop, The Cutting Room.

Originally a section of the Melton Regal Cinema, which lies in an adjoining building, the building was converted into a pub by the Smith & Jones Pub Co. but has since been taken over by Stonegate. It is a popular venue for live sports, helped by the large amount of seating throughout. The layout consists of a large, single room with the bar to the left of the entrance and a raised section to the rear that is mainly for dining. There is a large balcony above the bar that can be hired for private functions but is otherwise open at busy times. 5 of the available 6 handpulls are in use whilst I'm there, featuring Nottingham Robin Hood, Pheasantry Black Pheasant, Courage Best Bitter, Greene King IPA and Lilley's Rhubarb Cider. I decided on the Black Pheasant (4.2%), from Newark-based Pheasantry Brewery. As the name implies, this is a dark ale with malty flavours, balanced bitterness and velvety flavours. It's very smooth and very satisfying and I'll definitely be seeking out more of their beers in future.

I was approximately halfway through the day's itinerary now and so I retraced my steps back in the direction of the train station. Passing back past the market place, I made my way to a pub that lies nearby. My day would continue at The Crown.



Adjacent to St. Mary's Church, this Georgian town pub is part of the Everards estate. The main entrance leads to a small porch with an entrance to both sides. Left leads to the bar room with a real fire and a large TV and right leads to a slightly larger lounge. There is a skittle alley to the rear and an upstairs room with a separate bar that is available for functions. There is also a cobbled courtyard with a floral border to the rear of the pub that features tables and chairs. I went left upon entry and found myself in a fairly large and comfortable lounge with one half of the central bar to my left. Each side of the bar includes a bank of handpulls with 4 in the room I'm in offering beers from Everards namely, Sunchaser, Beacon Hill, Tiger and Old Original. Sunchaser was my choice this time. At 4%, this is a straw coloured ale with lemon and honey aromas and subtle, zesty flavours of honey. It's very refreshing after the walk from the previous pub!

My next location wasn't very far away at all, merely a short walk and across the road. It was time for a visit to a micropub and I found just the thing at The Gas Tap.




The Gas Tap first opened in April 2016, in a converted sandwich bar opposite the church. Under new management since March 2017, the pub serves real ale, cider, 8 wines, quality spirits, soft drinks and Adnams Dry Hopped Lager. It is a small, single roomed pub with a capacity of around 25, 21 of which can be comfortably seated. The beers are provided by gravity dispense from a stillage in one corner. Recipient of a local branch Pub of Merit Award for September of this year, the pub is located within the historic building known as 'The Old Club', Melton's first gentlemen's club, which featured both Beau Brummell and the Prince Regent as regular visitors. Francis Grant painted 'The Melton Breakfast' within the building and there are pictures on the wall depicting the history of the building from 1870 to the present day. I arrived about 1 minute after the pub had opened and made my way to the stillage to see what was on offer. I found 4 beers available, all of which were very interesting. I was faced with a choice between Newby Wyke Bear Island Extra, Tres Bien Peacock, Milton Medusa and Froth Blowers John Bull. I'd never heard of Froth Blowers Brewing Co. so one of their beers sounded like a good plan. I've since learned that they are based in Birmingham. John Bull's Best (4.4%), the beer that I'd chosen, is a golden, well balanced beer made with British hops and malt. It was a surprising beer from a new brewery and it's always nice to find something new on trips like this!

I had time for a couple more venues now and these would take me closer to the train station in preparation for the journey home. Next up was a location that was almost opposite the path that led back to the platform. I was now at the Harboro' Hotel.



This former 18th century coaching inn still retains a good reputation for accommodation in the local area with 33 en-suite rooms. It was extensively refurbished in 2014 to give it a modern and open plan feel but two separate lounge areas have been maintained. The hotel is usually busy but it's size means that it rarely becomes crowded. The bar sits at an angle in one corner of the main route through the hotel and includes 4 handpulls. Available on the day are Timothy Taylor Landlord, Black Sheep Bitter, St. Austell Proper Job and Morland Old Speckled Hen. It was nice to see Proper Job in this part of the world so I gave that a go and this was a good choice as it was delicious and in just the right condition. I enjoyed my drink at a table underneath a TV that was showing Supergirl without sound or subtitles which I can't help but think defeats the point. The beer more than made up for it though.

I had time for once last stop before my journey back home and it was one that was worth waiting for. I would finish the day at Noel's Arms.



This is a popular single-roomed pub that became a freehouse in 2013 and has since shown real commitment to real ale with microbreweries featuring prominently. In the intervening years, more than 200 real ales and ciders have featured, many of them LocAle. Live music features prominently at weekends and darts, pool and cribbage are also available. Awarded Branch Pub of the Year for 2014, the Noel's is Good Beer Guide listed and deservedly so. 4 of the 5 handpulls are in use when I arrive, with a choice of Doom Bar, Twisted WTF, Belvoir Dark Horse and Belvoir Gordon Bennett. I swung for the excellently name Gordon Bennett (4.1%), from Belvoir Brewery, located at Old Dalby just outside of the town. Named for the infamous playboy billionaire who sponsored many early gas balloon and motor car racing teams, this is a chestnut beer with a biscuity finish and overtones of aroma from the late addition of English hops. It's certainly a cracking pint! I sat at a low table, near the door to the toilets and roughly between a muted jukebox and a TV playing power ballads. It was almost time to leave and time to reflect on my day.

Does Melton need to add real ale to its list of locally recognised produce alongside the aforementioned cheese and pork pies? I believe so. There are a lot of venues in this town that are flying the flag for real ale in this town. The Noel's Arms, Kettleby Cross and Gas Tap in particular should be commended for their commitment for keeping faith with proper beer in this lovely part of Leicestershire. There are places that don't quite hit the mark, as there are in every town. The Half Moon was the less favourable venue of the day but their beer was good so there's not too much to complain about really. I enjoyed my foray into the real ale scene of Melton Mowbray and I like to think I will return. I ran out of time to visit The Boat, another GBG listed pub not far from the station that has gain something of a reputation in recent years for its choice of ales. A return trip is likely to be worth it for that alone. Melton can be proud of its culinary heritage. And now it can be proud of its beer scene too!


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