Into the Black

One of the best parts of this little hobby that I've cultivated over so many years is undoubtedly the joy of exploration. There's something exciting about visiting a new place, or revisiting an old favourite, and never quite knowing what you're going to find. That can certainly be said for the most recent destination to fall under my scrutiny. Whilst it's a well-known location in general, it was somewhere that I'd previously never visited and certainly somewhere that you would not normally consider as a worthwhile destination for the intrepid beer adventurer. The location in question is probably the UK's best known holiday destination, particularly for those in and around the northwest, and is synonymous with bright lights, beaches, ballroom dancing and a world famous funfair. The town's reputation for fun, frolics and entertainment already very much precedes it but, as is often the case, you can only really know a place by digging deeper, scratching under the surface to find the things that aren't so obvious. Have you figured out where I'm talking about yet? Allow me to shed some illumination: Blackpool. Really?, you must be thinking, but, yes, really. My recent trip saw me heading to the famed seaside town for a weekend. Not only would it be my first visit to the area but also marks the inaugural appearance of the county of Lancashire in this very column. I must stress that I would not be making the journey alone. I would be accompanied by Amy and also by our good friend Aiden, Amy's best friend and former work colleague, who is a frequent visitor to Blackpool and knows the area well. The trip itself had been months in the planning. We'd wanted to go for a while, primarily to spend some time with Aiden outside of Nottingham, but also so that we could fully experience Blackpool in all of its glory, if glory is the right word. Whilst this wouldn't explicitly be a pub trip, I would be remiss in my research if I hadn't looked into what traditional pubs and bars there were to explore, particularly near where we'd be staying. For those of you who, like myself, have previously never been, or, if you're reading this from outside the UK, have potentially never heard of Blackpool, what is there to know about this quintessential seaside spot? Time for some elaboration. 

Blackpool is a seaside town in Lancashire. It is located on the Irish Sea coast of the Fylde peninsula, approximately 27 miles (43 km) north of Liverpool and 14 miles (23 km) west of Preston. It is the main settlement in the borough of the same name.

Blackpool was originally a hamlet; it began to grow in the mid-eighteenth century, when sea bathing for health purposes became fashionable. Blackpool's beach was suitable for this activity and, by 1781, several hotels had been built. The opening of a railway station in 1846 allowed more visitors to reach the resort, which continued to grow for the remainder of the nineteenth century. In 1876, the town became a borough. Blackpool's development was closely tied to the Lancashire cotton-mill practice of annual factory maintenance shutdowns, known as Wakes Weeks, when many workers chose to visit the seaside. The town saw large growth during the late Victorian and Edwardian periods. By 1951, its population had reached 147,000.

In the late 20th century, changing holiday preferences and increased overseas travel impacted Blackpool's standing as a leading resort. Despite economic challenges, the town's urban fabric and economy remain centred around tourism. Today, the seafront continues to draw millions of visitors annually; it features landmarks such as Blackpool Tower, Illuminations, Pleasure Beach and the Winter Gardens. The town is home to football club Blackpool F.C.. The population of Blackpool at the 2021 census was 141,000, a decrease of 1,100 since the 2011 census.

In 1970, a 13,500-year-old elk skeleton was found with a barbed bone point embedded in one leg. Now displayed in the Harris Museum, this find provided the first evidence of humans living on the Fylde. Some of the earliest villages on the Fylde, which were later to become part of Blackpool town, were named in the Domesday Book in 1086.

In medieval times, Blackpool emerged as a few farmsteads on the coast within Layton-with-Warbreck; the name came from "le pull", a stream that drained Marton Mere and Marton Moss into the sea. The stream ran through peatlands that discoloured the water, so the name for the area became "Black Poole". In the 15th century, the area was just called Pul and a 1532 map calls the area "the pole howsys alias the north howsys".

In 1602, entries in the Bispham Parish Church baptismal register include both Poole and for the first time Blackpoole. The first house of any substance, Foxhall, was built by the Tyldesley family of Myerscough Lodge and existed in the latter part of the 17th century. By the end of that century, it was occupied by squire and diarist Thomas Tyldesley, grandson of the Royalist Sir Thomas Tyldesley. An act of Parliament in 1767 enclosed a common, mostly sand hills on the coast, that stretched from Spen Dyke southwards.

In the 18th century, sea bathing gained popularity for health benefits, drawing visitors to Blackpool as a tourist resort. By 1788, there were about 50 houses on the sea bank. Of these around six accommodated wealthy visitors while a number of other private dwellings lodged the "inferior class whose sole motive for visiting this airy region was health." In 1781, The town's amenities, including hotels, archery stall, and bowling greens, slowly expanded. By 1801, the population reached 473. Henry Banks, instrumental in Blackpool's growth, purchased Lane Ends estate in 1819, building the first holiday cottages in 1837.

By the early 19th century, small purpose-built facilities began catering to a middle-class market, although substantial numbers of working people from manufacturing towns were "being drawn to Blackpool's charms." In 1846, a pivotal event marked the early growth of the town: the completion of a railway branch line to Blackpool from Poulton. This spurred development as visitors flocked in by rail, boosting the town's economy. Blackpool prospered with the construction of accommodations and attractions, fostering rapid growth in the 1850s and 1860s. A Board of Health was established in 1851, gas lighting in 1852, and piped water in 1864. The town's population exceeded 2,500 by 1851.

North Pier opened in 1863, designed by Eugenius Birch for Blackpool's "better classes", and always retained its unique qualities of being a quieter, more reflective place compared with Blackpool's other two piers.^[9] The following half century included the construction of two further piers – South Pier (now Central Pier) in 1868 and Victoria (now South Pier) in 1893 – the Winter Gardens (1878), Blackpool Tower (1894) and the earliest surviving rides at Blackpool Pleasure Beach (founded in 1896).

Blackpool's Royal Palace Gardens at Raikes Hall was a world-famous destination for variety and music hall stars from the mid-18th century. It boasted a Grand Opera House, Indian Room for theatrical and variety performances, a Niagara café with cyclorama, a skating rink and fern house, an elaborate conservatory, monkey house, aviary and outside dancing platform for several thousand people. The gardens also had carriage drives and walkways with Grecian and Roman statues for promenaders to enjoy. There was also a boating lake and a racing track with grandstand for several thousand. More than 40,000 visitors passed through its gates during the opening week in 1872.

Working-class tourists dominated the heart of the resort, which was the go-to destination for workers from the industrial north and their families. Entire towns would close down their industries during Wakes Weeks between June and September, with a different town on holiday each week. Communities would travel to Blackpool together, first by charabanc and later by train. Blackpool still catered to a "significant middle-class market during the spring and autumn", favouring the residential area of North Shore.

Blackpool's growth since the 1870s was shaped by its pioneering use of electrical power. Electric lighting came to the town in 1879, as it became the world's first municipality with electric street lighting along Blackpool Promenade, setting the stage for the Blackpool Illuminations. 100,000 people congregated to see the promenade illuminated on the evening of 19 September 1879.

Work started in Blackpool on the UK's first electric public tramway on 24 February 1884 and the Blackpool Tramway opened officially on 29 September 1885. It established one of the world's earliest electric tramways, initially operated by the Blackpool Electric Tramway Company. By 1899, the tramway had expanded and the conduit system was replaced by overhead wires. As of 2025, the system still remains in service. In 1897, Blackpool became one of the first towns to mark important civic events with illuminated tram-cars when five Corporation trams were decorated with coloured lights to mark the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

By the 1890s, Blackpool had a population of 35,000 and could host 250,000 holidaymakers. Notable structures, like the Grand Theatre (1894) and Blackpool Tower, emerged. The Grand Theatre was among Britain's first all-electric theatres. The Victorian and Edwardian period saw a significant construction of hotels and other accommodation, including the Grand Metropole Hotel (1873 but incorporating an earlier hotel that had opened in 1785), the Imperial Hotel (1867) and the Norbreck Castle Hotel (1912). These hotels remain extant.

In 1897, Blackpool Corporation prohibited "phrenologists, 'quack' doctors, palmists, mock auctions and cheap jacks" from hawking on Blackpool sands. The outliers moved onto Central Promenade, where they erected stalls in front gardens. The stretch became known as the Golden Mile and sideshows became one of its key features until the 1960s.

In 1911, the town's Central station was the busiest in the world; in July 1936, 650 trains came and went in a single day. In May 1912, Princess Louise officially opened a new section of North Promenade – Princess Parade; lights were erected to mark the occasion. The First World War called a temporary halt to the display in 1914 but, by 1925, the lights were back with giant animated tableaux being added and extending the Blackpool Illuminations to almost six miles from Squires Gate to Red Bank Road.

The inter-war period saw Blackpool develop and mature as a holiday destination. By 1920, Blackpool had around eight million visitors per year, still drawn largely from the mill towns of East Lancashire and the West Riding of Yorkshire. Blackpool's population boom was complete by 1951, by which time some 147,000 people were living in the town; this compared with 47,000 in 1901 and 14,000 in 1881. In the 1920s and 1930s, Blackpool was Britain's most popular resort, which JB Priestley referred to as "the great, roaring, spangled beast." It provided visitors with entertainment and accommodation on an industrial scale. At its height, it hosted more than 10 million visitors a year and its entertainment venues could seat more than 60,000 people. In 1939, the illuminations were again suspended for the Second World War, not resuming until 1948.

Blackpool remained a popular resort through much of the 20th century and, in contrast to most resorts, increased in size during the Second World War; it remained open while others closed and with many civil servants and military personnel sent to live and work there.^[8] The town continued to attract more visitors in the decade after the war, reaching a peak of 17 million per year.

By the 1960s, the UK tourism industry was undergoing radical changes. The increasing popularity of package holidays took many of Blackpool's traditional visitors abroad. The construction of the M55 motorway in 1975 made Blackpool more feasible as a day trip rather than an overnight stay. The modern economy, however, remains relatively undiversified and firmly rooted in the tourism sector.

Many seaside resorts fell from grace during the latter half of the 20th century as mobility, wealth, visitor aspirations and competition were in a state of flux, but Blackpool managed to retain its popular/working-class appeal as the "Las Vegas of the North".

Despite economic restructuring, increased competition and other challenges, Blackpool continues as a seaside visitor destination. Tourism in the town supports 25,000 full-time equivalent jobs – one in five of the workforce. In 2023, the town was named the nation's best-value holiday destination. In 2021 18.8 million visitors contributed £1.5 billion to the local economy, making Blackpool the nation's biggest seaside resort. In 2022, the resort attracted a further 1.5 million visitors – a total figure of 20.33 million - contributing £1.7bn to the local economy and supporting more than 22,000 jobs.

As can be seen from the history above, Blackpool's rise is inexorably linked to the increased popularity of the seaside as a tourist destination, and the associated increasing ease of reaching such a place by car or public transport. As with other seaside towns, some of which have featured in these pages over the past few months, it would be interesting to see how much the town and its pubs were intertwined with its history and what traces of this history still remain in its various drinking houses. Firstly though, we had a journey ahead of us. Given its location, and the failings of the British rail system, Blackpool is a logistical nightmare to get to, at least from where we live. Thankfully, we'd decided way ahead of time that the easiest way to get there was to drive. So, off we went, on a warm and pleasant Friday morning. We picked Aiden up on the way and, before too long, we were heading to the north-east. The drive took around 3 hours and ended up being relatively straightforward, barring some small pockets of congestion. Our journey into the town took us along the central promenade, beneath the iconic tower and along the coast. We would be staying in the northern part of the town, not far from the North Shore and its associated pier. Our accommodation was located in the LGBTQ friendly part of the town, which itself inhabits an area on the very edge of the town centre. The Pleasure Beach, with its famous attractions, is further south, almost an hour's walk from our location. We arrived in Blackpool around 12.45, parked up in a pay and display car park just around the corner from our hotel, climbed out of the car, and took a moment to stretch and breathe. We'd made it! We couldn't check in until 3pm, which gave us a bit of time to get our bearings. We located out hotel, literally a few seconds walk away, and then it was time for something we were all in desperate need of: a well-earned pint. Conveniently, my research had yielded the identity and location of a pub a literal stone's throw from our hotel. Both are located on Dickson Road and this seemed as good a place as any to begin to get an idea of what Blackpool's pub scene would potentially have to offer. Our first stop would be The Duke. 

 

Formerly known as The Duke of York, until it changed its name for reasons that are probably obvious, The Duke is a large, street corner pub that is now operated by Thwaites. Inside, the layout is an approximate square, with a large bar towards the rear of the main space. An open plan area in front of this divides the bar from the seating areas. High stools and tables sit opposite the main bar space. The bar flooring is bare wood. A raised, carpeted area of seating sits between the bar and the door. There are further seating areas at either side of the bar, all consisting of scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. A lower area to one side houses a pool table and the toilets, along with banquette seating and small wall-mounted tables. The pub is light and airy, with decor limited to old photos of the area and technical diagrams of various machines. The sight of a bar was a welcome one after the drive and we immediately perused our options. Given the pub's ownership, it was no surprise to see a bank of 3 handpulls on the bar. However, the only option available from this trio was Weston's Rosie's Pig Rhubarb cider. Reassuringly though, the remaining handpumps were being prepared for use later in the day so I can confirm that The Duke does, in fact, sell real ale. For the time being though, I went for something different. Amy and I opted for a pint each of Paradise No. 3, a keg hazy pale from Thwaites's expanding craft beer range, which we have encountered before, most notably in Sheffield. For his part, Aiden went for a bottle of Peroni. Our round totalled £15 on the nose, which wasn't unreasonable given our choices and location. We took our drinks to a high table just off from the bar and decompressed from the journey. The pints went down smoothly and were very refreshing. They were definitely needed after more than 3 hours in a hot car. The Duke is a pleasant pub. We were made to feel welcome and we'd already received a glimpse into Blackpool's hospitality. The pub also opens at 9am every day for breakfast, which would serve us well over the next couple of days. For now though, with our drinks finished, we departed. 

We still had some time before we could check in, so we took the opportunity to have a bit of an explore of the local area and the town centre, and we also picked up some lunch in meal deal form. Having gotten a rough idea of our location in relation to some areas we wanted to be later on, we made our way over to the hotel, where we were finally able to check in. We essentially wanted some time to unpack and refresh before heading out again. Our brief sojourn around the locality had confirmed the location of some pubs that I'd included on the itinerary. Following a short period of recuperation, Amy and I headed back out. Aiden would catch up with us in due course. Heading out of our hotel on Dickson Road, we turned right, heading in the direction of the town centre. A few yards down the road, we reached a junction and continued on, where Dickson Road becomes Topping Street. Here, on the left hand side, was the next pub on the list and one I wanted to make sure that we got the chance to visit. Time now for the Cask and Tap.

Located at 82 Topping Street, this micropub opened on September 25th 2020, since which it has built a fearsome reputation for its beer. Featuring in the Good Beer Guide 2026, Cask and Tap is the title holder of CAMRA Branch Pub of the Year for 2025 and runner-up for Cider Pub of the Year. The green-painted facade leads through into a single, long room. The L-shaped bar counter is in the far left corner. Tables and chairs occupy much of the central floorplan and there are drinking ledges around the edges of the room. The floor is bare wood and the walls and ceilings are ornate copper embossed. Quirky lighting is made from recycled transistor radios and even an old fire extinguisher. The toilets are located to the rear, adjacent to the bar. Speaking of the bar, it's certainly well-stocked with goodies. Alongside a rotating keg beer selection, and at least half a dozen traditional ciders, you will find 6 handpulls. On the day, 5 of these were in use, with an interesting choice of options. They were certainly a sight for sore eyes and I was very much looking forward to getting stuck in. The choices were Triple Point Mild, Little The Panther, Bristol Beer Factory Volume II, Coley's Charmed by Harlequin and Ashover Three Horseshoes. The presence of a couple of East Midlands options surprised me and it took me a little bit of time to choose before I settled on the Charmed by Harlequin (4.1%) from Manchester-based Coley's. Amy selected Kicks, by Beak Brewery, from amongst the keg range. A pint of both came to £12.70. We made our way to a table by the window, at which point I noticed that my pint had been served in a Castle Rock pint glass. Try as I might, it seems that I can't escape my employers. The timing of our arrival had been fortuitous as we'd managed to secure a table just before a large group from the local Masonic Lodge arrived. We never did find out what the occasion was. Cask and Tap is a cracking little pub. It's completely clear as to why it's so highly regarded. It's a comfortable place for a pint and the decor is something quite different. It's very quirky and adds to the unique charm of the place. I was thoroughly impressed and glad we'd found the time to get here. The beer lived up to the reputation too. Charmed by Harlequin is a pale ale that focuses on the eponymous hop, which brings notes of pineapple, apricot and peach, with a crisp, refreshing bitterness. It went down an absolute treat! Just as our pints were approaching the dregs, Aiden appeared, which meant that we were duty bound to stay for another pint. On this occasion, I switched things up and went for the Volume II from Bristol Beer Factory. This turned out to be a 4.1% IPA, brewed with Australian Ella and US Cashmere hops, resulting in a floral, tropical base and big hop flavours of lemon, lime and melon. It was also in superb condition, confirming that Cask and Tap 100% know how to keep their beer in tip-top shape. 

A happy buzz was settling in as we decided to move on. Now that I'd discovered decent cask ale in Blackpool, I was eager for more of the same. Handily for me, I knew of another place a short distance away that I was confident would deliver exactly what I was seeking. Leaving Cask and Tap, we turned left and continued down Topping Street. Upon reaching the end, we turned left again, this time onto Church Street. A few yards further on, we crossed the road at a pedestrian crossing, quickening our pace so as to avoid a woman who was going absolutely ballistic at her partner down the phone, in full earshot of her young child. Our next destination would be our salvation. Directly across the road, located on a corner, is Rhythm & Brew Room.

What was once the Stanley Arms Hotel reopened in its present form on December 15th 2017. In its previous life, it is notable for being the place where Blackpool FC was founded in July 1887. Nowadays, it is a Good Beer Guide 2026 listed venue and a renowned beer mecca, something that we would be putting to the test! The front door leads through into a long bar area, with bare wood floors and white plaster ceilings. A wooden bar runs down one side of the room. Seating is in the form of high tables and chairs, located opposite the bar but also throughout. Several smaller rooms have been formed through the use of dividing walls and pillars. To the right of the entrance, is a raised area with more seating, primarily of the traditional wooden variety alongside low, upholstered stools. This area also features a wooden and part glass partition that divides it from the rest of the space. Original beams can be found throughout. TVs and fruit machines are amongst the electronic additions. The decoration is an absolute shrine to beer memorabilia, featuring pump clips, posters, flags, branded tankards, and slogans. Hop flowers hang down in various areas. Amongst the beery artefacts, there are interesting touches. An old lamppost lamp has been repurposed as interior lighting and much use has been made of the available space to add a sense of originality. The toilets are located towards the rear. If the beer homages themselves weren't enough, the pub also has a brewery, Pool Brewing, based at the rear. Several of their products feature on the bar, which in itself features 6 handpulls and a strong keg selection. This is a literal Aladdin's cave of boozy wonderment. 5 of the 6 handpulls were in use on the day of our visit featuring 3 beers from Pool Brewing, in the shape of Can't Deny It, Loose Change and Paid in Full but there were also a couple of guests, namely Mobberley IPA and Vocation Chop & Change. I was familiar with Pool beers, having tried one in Derby earlier this year so it made sense to try their products again, this time direct from the source. I went for a pint of Paid in Full, Amy chose Vocation's Crush Hour from the keg selection and Aiden contented himself with the peach version of Jubel. The round totalled £16.60. We chose to sit in the raised section, where it was a bit quieter, and took in our surroundings. Everything about this place is wonderful. From the aesthetic, to the atmosphere and from the service to the soundtrack, we were absolutely blown away by it. Rhythm & Brew Room would fit in perfectly in any of the main beer cities but there's just something about it that makes it fit perfectly, here in Blackpool. The beer is top notch too. Paid in Full (4.1%) is billed as a golden ale. It boasts a pine finish and a decent Citra hop aroma. It's simple but effective. Easy drinking, delicious and definitely worth seeking out! It came in a brewery branded glass too, which was cool. This is a great brewery and I can't recommend their beers enough. More than that, I cannot recommend this place enough! It's a true gem and a standout in the area. It's well worth a visit, whether you're a fan of beer, pubs or even football history. We all certainly agreed that it had been worth stopping off for!

It was sorely, achingly tempting to stay for another beer at Rhythm & Brew Room. However, we had plans to have a fairly late evening so instead we decided to move on. Aiden headed back to the hotel to get ready. I wanted to stop off at one more place, before we went back and did the same. Said location is virtually opposite Rhythm & Brew Room, and is located on South King Street. Amy and I ventured over the road to Frenchman's Cove.

The building that houses Frenchman's Cove dates back to the Victorian era and was formerly a tobacco warehouse belonging to Duckworth's. In the 1990s, the building was converted into a bar and restaurant. Beyond the pirate-themed exterior, the interior still retains hints of its past usage with the deep cellars from the original structure still remaining. The layout is a single, square room, with the bar to one side. Exposed beams and brickwork are visible throughout. The furniture is basic and contemporary. A small stage area is directly adjacent to the door. The toilets are downstairs, accessed through a door to one side. The eccentric theming outside is not reflected internally, with most of the decor themed around football, primarily Liverpool FC. The beer selection here is keg only so I opted for a Guinness. Amy went for a Diet Coke and we parted with the total of £6.40. We grabbed a table next to the door and perused our environment. Whilst, at first glance, Frenchman's Cove seems fairly generic, you do get the sense of the history lurking underneath. That's not the only hint of the past that has left an imprint though. The pub has a reputation for ghostly happenings. The most notable occurrences have taken place in the cellar, where workmen and staff have reported shadowy figures and the sensation of being watched. The ghost of a woman called Laura Schoons is believed to be responsible for some of these happenings, though it is unclear what her connection to the building is, although she may once have worked here. More chillingly, doors open and close of their own accord, the pub speakers are known to turn themselves on after having been turned off for the night and, perhaps scariest of all, the voices of a woman and child have been heard coming through the pub sound system. Luckily, we didn't hear anything untoward during our visit but the journey downstairs to the toilets certainly had a weird vibe. In short, Frenchman's Cove is an atmospheric place to visit for its history and stories but there's not much for the seasoned beer aficionado. The Guinness is decent enough though.

After our brief stop at Frenchman's Cove, it was back to the hotel to prepare for the evening. On the way, we stopped at a local chippy for cheesy chips which came in, frankly, bafflingly large portions. It was much needed though and we enjoyed it back at the hotel. What followed was an evening of embracing the delights of Blackpool's nightlife, beginning in the hotel bar before heading to a couple of nearby venues to fully immerse ourselves. The experience included drag artists, DJs, cabaret, singing, dancing and karaoke, which included the best/weirdest version of Michael Jackson's Bad that any of us had ever witnessed, performed by a short, white, bespectacled, ginger lad. A surreal experience indeed, and we finally returned to our rooms at 2.30am after an unexpectedly late one. After a few hours sleep, our only full day in Blackpool dawned. We awoke, feeling tired but otherwise OK. Knowing we wouldn't see Aiden for a few hours, we set about getting ourselves ready for the day. A fortifying breakfast at The Duke, whose portions are almost comically huge, blew away any lingering cobwebs from the night before. We decided to take a stroll along the seafront. The day was warm, the sun was out and, you know, we were by the seaside, all of which are good reasons for a walk. We ventured along the Golden Mile, past the tower, and did a lap of Central Pier, looking out over the Irish Sea with wind turbines shimmering in the morning haze over in the distance. Having suitably recovered, we retraced our steps back along the seafront whilst we debated our plans for the rest of the day. We reasoned that we could stop for a pint, head back to the hotel to chill for a bit, and then head back out and tick off a few more pubs before the evening activities got going again. There was a pub nearby that  I wanted to visit and it was already open so there was no time like the present. Situated on West Street, just off of The Promenade, you will find The Mitre. 

Standing on the site of Dobson's Row, which dates from the 18th century, the earliest records of this building date from 1863 when it was used as a grocers and confectioners by John Crabtree. It changed hands numerous times in the ensuing years and first became fully licensed in 1898, when it was known as Ye Old Glue Pot. It took on the moniker of the Mitre Inn in 1902 and still operates under virtually the same name. It has the distinction of being the smallest pub in Blackpool. Inside, the bar is opposite the door, with areas of seating either side. The bar area is floored in bare wood with carpeted areas throughout. A snug-like area, towards the rear, features banquette seating around the perimeter alongside traditional wooden furniture. TVs are mounted in each area, with photos and paintings of old Blackpool on display. The toilets are located in a corridor off to one side. The bar boasts a pair of handpulls which, on the day, were offering Wainwright and Black Sheep Best Bitter. I opted for a pint of Wainwright whilst Amy began her day on Diet Coke. Our round came to £8.80. We made our way around into the snug area. The pub was fairly quiet, even on a Saturday, with a smattering of regulars keeping themselves to themselves. By far, The Mitre is the closest example of what I would call a 'traditional' pub that we'd found so far. It's welcoming enough, even given its small size. It reminded me in part of The Elsinore in Whitby, another small, traditional boozer with a loyal following. The Wainwright at The Mitre was passable enough and it's a comfortable spot to while away some time, away from the hustle and bustle of the seafront. 

Drinks supped, we took a slow wander back to the hotel. Following some chill time, and a nap, we felt ready and recharged to go again. Having been assured by Aiden that he'd be meeting us later on, we took the opportunity to tick off some more pubs that I'd earmarked in the vicinity of our digs. The first of these was something altogether different from our earlier stop. Heading right out of the hotel, we headed down Dickson Road and then took a left onto Talbot Road. Another right, this time at a traffic island, took us onto Cookson Street. We were now in the vicinity of Blackpool North station. Located on Bickerstaffe Square, a short distance from the station itself, you will find Raleside Brewhouse. 

This modern looking building is partly owned by Lancaster University. Passing through the slightly imposing entrance will bring you into a two-level modern bar, which opened in October 2024 as a sister venue to a bar in Cleveleys. The ground floor is all booth seating and wooden counter tops, with an aesthetic that fully leans into the railway theming. An old signal light sits in the middle of the room. One of the walls has been painted to resemble a tunnel entrance. Old railway lanterns and signage can be seen throughout the room. There are even screens displaying live train times for the anxious ones amongst us. The town of Blackpool is represented in the decor too, with murals on the windows of local landmarks. The overall image is industrial-chic with lots of glass and high, metal ceilings. The first floor mezzanine area acts as a de facto sports bar, with virtual darts available for hire, and furniture made from repurposed beer kegs. The bar sits at the rear of the room and is well stocked, with a good keg selection and a bank of 4 handpulls, 3 of which were in use. The trio of choices here were Timothy Taylor Landlord, Boddingtons Cask and Farmyard Sheaf. I went for the latter, whilst Amy chose a pint of Bear Devil by Tiny Rebel from amongst the keg range. In total we paid £9.70. Once again, our timing had been impeccable. We arrived here just before 3pm to be told that the venue was closing for a private party at 3.30. Luckily for us, that gave us plenty of time to get a drink down us. The staff were welcoming and pleasant throughout and at no point made us feel like we were being rushed, so kudos to them for that. I was glad we'd made it to this place in time. It's very different to anything else we'd seen so far and another great example of a station pub. The beer was great too. Sheaf (4.1%) is a pale ale brewed by Lancaster's Farmyard Brewery. It's brewed with Citra and Mosaic hops, which gives tropical notes, a well balanced bitterness and a citrusy finish. It's also gluten free and vegan friendly, if that's something that floats your boat. It's a delicious beer though, very drinkable and smooth. 

With the modern trappings of Raleside behind us, we were heading back towards the traditional side of things now. Continuing on down Cookson Street, we took a right onto Deansgate, which we followed until we reached the junction with Topping Street. Our next stop was just nearby, at The Washington. 

Dating from 1875, The Washington is a relatively large Greene King pub located on a street corner. The entrance leads through into a large bar area. Large bay windows to the front ensure lots of natural light gets in. The bar is large and runs the length of one wall. Seating is located throughout with more open-plan areas in between to create more space. The furniture is mostly wood and the flooring is a mix of bare wood and carpet. A feature wall at one end features local photos. The high ceilings and subtle lighting create a comfortable ambience. Large TV screens feature throughout the pub, and the internal layout resembles several smaller areas with dividing features in between. Despite being a Greene King pub, this is another one that carries on a recent theme of only featuring guest cask beers instead of the usual Greene King staples. There are 9 handpulls here but, on the day, just 4 were being utilised, although the selection was interesting and unexpected: Acorn Piano Man, Kirkby Lonsdale Stanley's Pale, Fuzzy Duck Dapper Duck and Rock the Boat Yellow Submarine. Despite the obvious draw of the musically-themed options, I instead went for Dapper Duck from Fuzzy Duck in nearby Poulton-le-Fylde, with Amy opting for a Madri, at a total cost of £10.65. We made our way to a high table near the bar where we could easily observe the first leg of the League One Playoff semi-final between Bolton and Stockport. It's always nice when 'chain' pubs serve up a surprise in their beer choice. As much as Greene King beers are fine, and usually well kept, in their own pubs at least, it's nice when their pubs are allowed to branch out and support smaller, more local breweries. Fuzzy Duck are a case in point. Dapper Duck (4.1%) is an amber session ale with Olicana and Harlequin hops, which provide passionfruit, peach and floral notes. It's a good beer and has an interesting flavour profile. I don't think I've had Olicana hops that many times, at least not to my knowledge, so it was nice to see them featuring here. 

The Washington had taken me by surprise with the range and quality of its beers and, to be fair, the pub in general was nice enough. I was keen to see what our next stop would bring to the table. A short distance further down Topping Street, we would find our next location, Churchills. 

The pub that is now Churchills was formerly the Criterion Hotel, whose name can be still be seen in the pavement brickwork to the front of the present building. It was renamed after the wartime Prime Minister, who visited Blackpool several times and whose father once gave a speech in the town. Recently refurbished, the pub has retained much of its traditional interior. A curved bar greets you upon entry, with seating wrapping around towards the rear. Seating is of the scrubbed wood variety. A lower level to the rear features more of the same and also houses the ladies toilets. The gents is on the main level, at the end of the bar. A raised stage area in one corner is predominantly used for live entertainment and karaoke. The decoration incorporates old photos, articles and image of Blackpool. The wooden bar and exposed beams hint at the pub's age. We entered Churchills to find karaoke in full swing and we also managed to lower the average age of the patrons by about 20 years. The bar staff may well have been the only people in attendance to be our age or under. Still, we were not to be perturbed. The bar features 4 handpulls, and half of these were being used, with a choice between Timothy Taylor Golden Best and Hobgoblin Gold. I opted for the latter, with Amy going for Moretti, at a total cost of £9.40 for both. We managed to procure the remaining table in the top section and enjoyed/endured (delete as applicable) the karaoke from the, admittedly committed, regulars. There's a time and a place for Part of  Your World though and it's not on a Saturday afternoon in Blackpool. Still, at least people were enjoying themselves. We certainly were. Churchills keeps a decent drop of Hobgoblin Gold and it went down very well. Before long, Aiden emerged to join us and we had another round here. It's easy to see why Churchills is so popular. It combines traditional charm with slightly more modern trappings. With our drinks finished, we left with a number of thoughts, chief amongst which was why do people think they have to yell to do karaoke? The microphone literally makes your voice louder. 

Now that Aiden had joined us, we went for another wander, this time heading straight down Topping Street and turning right onto Church Street. We followed this on and then followed the road around to the right. We had now arrived back in the main shopping district, somewhere we had explored the day before and then briefly again that morning. We were on Birley Street when somewhere caught our eye that hadn't been on the original route plan. With our curiosity piqued, we decided to investigate Shickers Tavern. 

This is the sister venue to a micropub of the same name in the South Beach area of the town. This incarnation opened in January 2024. Inside, expect a one-room micropub vibe that also caters for fans of alternative music. The bar is over in one corner, with a corridor to one side leading to the toilet. The layout is largely open-plan, with seating along both sides of the central area, and a couple of high tables in the middle. There is also some seating in the pedestrianised area to the front of the pub. A space inside, at the front, is reserved for live bands, who feature regularly. The overall decor is minimalist but there are neon signs and artworks of music legends, all accompanied by a rock soundtrack. The room is fairly dark, which adds to the atmosphere. This is very much in what approaches the alternative area of this part of Blackpool. There is a comic book store next door, and a rock themed cafe a couple of doors up. I expected good things from this place, especially with the words CASK ALE hanging above the door. They do indeed have a couple of handpumps but there weren't being used on the day. Luckily, they have craft beer so I settled for a pint of Clwb Tropica, Amy went for San Miguel and Aiden for cider, with our round totalling £15.50. We grabbed a table by the door. Despite the lack of my preferred beverage, I thought this place was great. It clearly gets quite busy when bands are playing and it was really cool to see a venue like this catering to the alternative crowd in a town that isn't known for such. Hopefully it will continue to thrive and provide an outlet and a safe haven. 

We left Shickers with our evening plans set. Following another meal deal stop, we headed back to the hotel, where we repeated the previous evening's antics, although without so late a finish and much less alcohol for me as I had to drive the following day. Sunday dawned bright and warm. Another breakfast at The Duke would see us on our way. Then we had the prospect of the 3 hour return journey. Still, this meant that there was much time for reflection. Blackpool had been an experience. As a first time visitor, I feel uniquely qualified to make that statement. Much of the stereotypes I'd heard about the place definitely seem to ring true. The nightlife is second to none and that seems to be the draw for the majority of people that visit as tourists. If your idea of fun is pints of lager, drag bingo and cabaret until 6am, Blackpool has exactly what you need. To be clear, there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of that. I love cabaret and drag acts as much as anyone. But, for those for whom the novelty of such things wears off quickly or where it isn't quite your vibe, fear not. There are still pockets of calm and solace to be had, away from the chaos, where welcoming pints quench parched lips in quiet corners. Tradition and modernity often clash but it's here, in places like Blackpool, where the two things come together, that surprising things can be found. Rest assured, Blackpool has something you like and the venues in this column are a mere snapshot. From my own research, I know that there are many more pubs across the town where good beer is to the forefront, though time and logistics meant that we couldn't get to them this time. The story of Blackpool then mirrors that of other seaside towns, where tourists come to forget their daily lives in swathes of black sambuca and questionable decisions, but where the locals, those who call this place home, and those who prefer the calmer way of things can find themselves equally welcome. If you find yourself in Blackpool, by choice or otherwise, take yourself off the beaten track. What you find might surprise you. Just don't yell on the karaoke. 

Pub of the Trip: Rhythm & Brew Room. An absolute beer haven with a fantastic aesthetic.

Honourable mention: Cask and Tap. A cracking micropub with excellent beer.

Beer of the Trip: Pool Brewing, Paid in Full. Bloody delicious

Biggest surprise: Raleside Brewhouse. Fantastic theming. Perfect place for a pre or post-train pint.