It's that time of year again! It's definitely, at least for now, feeling significantly more autumnal. The nights are drawing in, the temperatures are dropping and the weather is doing its part by being considerably more unsettled. Not that any of this affects my ability to get out and about and nor will it. You join me in the unusual position of working, as it were, on location of sorts. Due to a delay in our new broadband package being installed and activated I find myself utilising the workplace Wifi, on a day off no less, in order to inform you of my most recent beery exploits. Last week saw me venturing back to Derbyshire to tick yet another town off of my ever growing list. The target of my attentions, on this occasion, was the fair town of Matlock, not to be confused with the neighbouring tourist hotspot of Matlock Bath which has graced these pages previously.
Matlock is the county town of Derbyshire. It is in the south-eastern part of the Peak District, with the National Park directly to the west. The spa resort of Matlock Bath is immediately south of the town and also Cromford. The civil parish of Matlock Town had a population in the 2011 UK census of 9,543.
Matlock is 9 miles (14 km) south-west of Chesterfield and in easy reach of the cities of Derby (19 miles), Sheffield (20 miles) and Nottingham (29 miles). Matlock is within the Derbyshire Dales district and is the headquarters of Derbyshire County Council.
The name Matlock derives from the Old English mæthel (or mæðel), meaning assembly or speech, and āc, meaning oak tree; thus Matlock means 'moot-oak', an oak tree where meetings are held. In the Domesday Book of 1086 it was recorded as Meslach and in 1196 it was named Matlac. It is a former spa town that lies on the River Derwent, and has prospered from both the hydrotherapy industry and the cloth mills constructed on the river and its tributary Bentley Brook. It was a collection of villages in Wirksworth Hundred – composed of Matlock Town, Matlock Green, Matlock Bridge, Matlock Bank – until thermal springs were discovered in 1698. The population increased rapidly in the 1800s, largely because of the popular hydros that were being built. At one stage there were around twenty hydros, mostly on Matlock Bank, the largest built in 1853 by John Smedley. This closed in 1955, and re-opened in 1956 as the headquarters of the Derbyshire County Council. Matlock is also home to the Derbyshire Dales District Council as well as Matlock Town council.
The main physical features of the Matlock area are the hills and watercourses. The height of the town varies from 91m at Causeway Lane (in the valley bottom) to 203m at the top of Wellington Street. Matlock is overlooked by Riber Castle at 260m from the south-east and by Masson Hill at 339m from the south-west. The first human settlement in the area was in what is now known as Old Matlock or Matlock Green. This was where the Bentley Brook joined the River Derwent. When the town grew in the late 19th century, the town spread up the steep hillsides to the north-east of the narrow valley bottom. Various industries made use of the natural features:
- The underlying bedrocks were quarried and mined.
- The watercourses were harnessed to power corn, cloth and other mills.
- The hillside thermal spring water gave rise to the hydros.
The natural features also constrained transport links:
- In the Derwent gorge below High Tor, the present-day A6 (Dale Road) was squeezed in beside the river.
- From the south, the Midland Railway reached Matlock Station via a series of short tunnels constructed under the limestone of the gorge.
- A cable tramway was constructed to tackle the very steep Bank Road.
Despite these constraints to transport links, modern-day Matlock is relatively easy to reach, being just over an hour away from Nottingham by train. This allowed me to arrive in the town just after midday, on a Tuesday that, at least initially, was doing its best to display the British Autumn weather in all of its ferocity. I was excited to see if Matlock would live up to the expectations I had built up around it during my researches into the town and I had also braced myself for braving the town's various steep hills (more on which later).
Having successfully negotiated my way out of the train station, I immediately found myself on Dale Road, one of the central thoroughfares through the town and part of the town centre. It just so happened that my first destination was virtually opposite the station entrance and so it wasn't long before I could delve into whatever ale-related delights Matlock had to offer. Carefully making my way around some roadworks, I crossed the road to pub number one, The Pointing Dogs.
Originally a bank but most recently a steak restaurant, The Pointing Dogs is now a pub owned and operated by Derby Brewing Co. This is the seventh premises in their expanding empire and only opened in its current guise in October 2022. Inside, the bar is on the ground floor, towards the rear. The furniture is modern and a mix of sofas, low tables and higher stools. A staircase to one side leads to a mezzanine level which features further seating. The decor is bright and quirky, featuring various dog-related artworks as befitting the pub's name as well as two TVs. This being a Derby Brewing Co. pub, it should come as no surprise that a set of handpulls occupies the bar, 4 in all. Three of these were in use at the time that I popped in, offering beers from the Derby portfolio, specifically Dashingly Dark, Business as Usual and Hop till you Drop. My first beer of the day took a moment of decision but I eventually took the plunge with Business as Usual (4.4%), the brewery's signature best bitter. This is a multi-award winning beer at recent SIBA festivals so it certainly seemed like a good place to start! I was the first customer of the day so it took no time at all to get served and I was soon sat at a high table adjacent to the bar enjoying my beer. It's easy to see why this is such a highly lauded beverage. It's a perfectly balanced bitter with just the right amount of maltiness, rounded out by a bitter mouthfeel and all round clean hop aroma. It was the perfect way to start the day, especially in a venue which was a last minute edition to the route. I also quickly noticed that I was sat next to the small cold room where the casks are stillaged. This is separated from the bar space by a glass door. Cask lines run from the casks to the handpulls, so the beer literally travels about 6 feet from the barrel to the glass. As with all good things, my beer was finished all too soon, and so it was on to the next destination.
Leaving The Pointing Dogs, I turned immediately left and continued down Dale Road until I reached the junction with Derwent Street, where a rather imposing stone building sits on the corner. What was once the Olde Englishe Hotel is now The Remarkable Hare.
Up to this point, the newer, more modern venues of Matlock seemed to be doing a fantastic job. It would soon be on to older, more traditional venues to see if the theme of good beer would continue. It was a bit more of a walk to the next location but, as the weather had temporarily settled into a calmer and relatively mild mindset, I didn't mind the extra legwork. It also meant that I got to explore the town a bit more and see how much of it looked familiar from when I'd walked here from Matlock Bath many years ago, back when I had a dog. Turning left out of The Remarkable Hare, I immediately turned left again down the neighbouring side street. Walking past a small car park brought me to a bridge over the River Derwent and into Hall Leys Park beyond. I remembered walking through this park from the other end some time ago but hadn't remembered much about it. I definitely hadn't remembered how close it was to the river. Upon entering the park, I then turned right and continued walking parallel with the Derwent until I left the park and emerged on a street that seemed to house lots of very lovely looking B&Bs in traditional buildings. I followed this road around to the left and then up a small hill, where I eventually reached Matlock Green. There, behind the local newsagents, was my third pub of the day and the first of 4 pubs that feature in the 2023 Good Beer Guide. This was The Red Lion.
This brick-built pub is the home of the Moot Ales microbrewery, located in a shed to the rear of the car park, and therefore acts as the brewery tap. The interior is modern, with a central bar located opposite the main entrance. Seating is located at either side, in a mix of scrubbed wooden tables and chairs and banquette seating. To the left side of the bar, most of the seating and a separate dining area can be found whilst, to the right are a couple of further tables, as well as a TV and dartboard, with a pool table located nearby. 7 handpumps occupy two banks, one at either end of the bar. The atmosphere is light and friendly and there were a small handful of regulars in attendance, one of whom politely greeted me as I entered. Unsurprisingly, the majority of the ales on offer were from the Moot Ales range, namely Milk Stout, Matlock Blonde, Giddy Edge and Best but there were also three guest ales available in the shape of Salopian Fat Cat, Bass and Oakham Citra. Regular readers amongst you will be thinking thus: Surely not? Surely he didn't go to a brewery tap for a local micro and still order Oakham Citra? Relax, my friends, for I did nothing of the sort! Instead, I opted for the Giddy Edge (5.3%), an IPA brewed with Chinook, Admiral and Fuggles hops. I decided to occupy a seat directly under one of the pub's front windows whilst I got my breath back from the walk uphill. Little did I know what was to come! The beer was excellent. All the bitterness you'd want from an IPA with a pillowy softness that made it far too easy to drink. The mouthfeel is complex through the use of pale Maris Otter, blended with pilsner and caramel malts. All in all, it's a cracking beer! This is a very cosy and welcoming pub that warrants its place in the Good Beer Guide.
If I was slightly out of breath on my uphill climb to the Red Lion, I was in for a shock on my hike to the next stop. Taking my leave of the third animal monikered pub of the day, I swung left and through a small jitty, emerging on Chesterfield Road which climbs gently uphill before swinging left and continuing up further. I was soon to be reminded just how hilly this part of Derbyshire is. They don't call it the Peak District for a laugh after all. My next destination lay at the top of the hill and the hill was steep. The walk was also roughly 25 minutes so there really was no turning back once I'd reached halfway. I'd also dressed for rain so, within about ten minutes, I'd already removed my jacket as, not only was the weather currently dry but I was sweating. The road would take me to the highest point in the town, Wellington Street, where I would not only find much-needed refreshment but also a superb view of Riber Castle on the neighbouring hillside. My feet were aching, I had shin splints, I was out of breath and my heart was racing but I persevered. I crested the hill, very aware of how sweaty I was, and saw the next pub just over the road. Sanctuary? Perhaps. Beer? Definitely. I was hoping my exertions would be rewarded at the Duke of Wellington.
This large, Greene King operated pub, sits on a busy road junction at the top of the town. I must have looked a right state when I walked in through the front door and up to the bar but, to their credit, neither customers or staff mentioned how worse for wear I may have looked. The Duke of Wellington is a traditional pub inside and out with 4 drinking areas broken up by internal walls arranged around a small, central bar. A small number of tables are directly opposite the bar, with another, larger area beyond this. To the left is a smaller snug-like space, with windows overlooking the garden filled with picnic benches and access to the ladies toilets. A corridor behind the bar leads to the gents and a smaller drinking space at the far end. A rear car park can be reached through a door and a small flight of steps at the back of the pub. It's often hard to know what to expect from a Greene King pub. Primarily they tend to mostly stock their own ales, which is fair enough, but I have noticed more guest beers beginning to creep into some of their venues and it was the same case here. Alongside Abbot Ale were two guest beers from Barnsley based Acorn Brewery, namely Barnsley Bitter and a special called Cigarettes & Alcohol, which I decided to try. This beer is part of a special range brewed to celebrate music through the decades, in this case Oasis in the 90s, conveniently ignoring the fact that the riff was nicked from a T-Rex song. Music pedantry aside, I took my beer to the small snug in hopes of using the solitude to re-energise and recover. The beer was a tad disappointing. A pale ale at 4.5%, Cigarettes & Alcohol is brewed with Bobek, Pacifica and Tetnang hops which, in theory, should produce punchy citrus and floral notes. Whilst the citrus was certainly present, there was a bit of a weird tang to the beer which rather ruined the effect. It wasn't undrinkable by any means but didn't quite provide the hit that I was expecting and ended up becoming a bit of a damp squib. I had certainly needed liquid refreshment after my uphill trek though so, in that respect, it did the job.
Suitably rejuvenated, I now intended to make the short journey down Wellington Road to the Thorn Tree Inn. However, this idea was quickly scuppered when I arrived to find a team of builders working away in and around the front entrance. Clearly the Thorn Tree was closed for a spruce up. This was a minor hiccup that meant I had to hastily rethink my next step. I wasn't too miffed about missing the chance to visit the Thorn Tree. My primary reason for visiting was to better investigate an alleged ghost story about the pub clock apparently being haunted. The mystery shall have to endure a while longer. I knew that a couple of the pubs for later in the day wouldn't be opening until later in the afternoon so I decided to circle back down into the centre and perhaps explore the town a bit more. Luckily the walk back down was much less exhausting than the walk up but I would later be retracing my steps. Arriving back at Hall Leys Park, I made my way back to Dale Road, but not before I stopped to photograph some rather alarming signs designating the height of the river during flooding in 1960 and 1965 respectively. Whilst pondering my next move, I came across a place that hadn't been on my original itinerary and that I had somehow missed on my first walk past. How I missed the large Titanic Brewery decal in the front window still eludes me. Drawing closer I took a quick glance through the window and noticed the Holy Grail, in the form of hand pumps, standing resplendent on the bar. Where was this place, I hear you cry? This was Bod.
The building in which Bod now sits began life in the 1920s, when it was built specifically for Boots. Its most recent life saw it being used as a furniture shop before its conversion into the modern cafe bar that it is now. Some original features still remain, including exposed brickwork and a mural of the building's original frontage can be found in one of the rooms inside. Elsewhere, the decoration is quirky and modern with an industrial chic carried off by exposed ducting in the ceiling. The small bar sits to one side with a collection of furniture across the floor and on raised areas in both windows. The front of an old phone box has been repurposed as an additional piece of decoration and elaborate chandeliers provide the lighting. The Garden Room, opposite the bar, features the aforementioned mural and hanging greenery as well as more conventional booth-style seating. It's bright and airy inside and certainly took me by surprise when I stumbled across it. Being run by Titanic Brewery should be a clue as to what to expect in terms of beer choice and, indeed, of the 4 handpumps in use (out of a total of 6), the majority were offering Titanic beers. As well as Steerage, Plum Porter and Cherry Porter, there was also a guest slot filled by Abbeydale Cetus. I don't drink Titanic beers nearly as much as I should, a crime for which the only punishment is a sound flogging, so it would have been remiss of me not to have a go at them here. I very rarely see both the Plum and Cherry Porter available at the same time and I was interested to see how they would compare to each other in close succession. I started with the Cherry Porter (4.9%), the one I've tried the least amount of times. This is a well rounded and hoppy porter with tons of sweetness from the cherry. It's smooth and not sickly and very very delicious. I would not have been doing my job as a beer blogger if I didn't immediately follow it with it's brother! The Plum Porter (also 4.9%) was just as good as I remembered from previous times. Sweeter than the cherry but with a touch more acidity, the hoppiness really balances well with the dried fruit flavours. Both these beers are absolute belters and it was an unexpected treat to be able to have them both one after another in the same venue. They certainly served me well whilst I spent some time in a booth in the Garden Room charging my phone. I was really glad I'd found this place. I clearly wasn't the first as the pub was displaying a Pub of the Season runner-up certificate in the window, a feature it actually shared with The Pointing Dogs. Bod certainly ticks the box marked 'hidden gem'.
I finished at Bod just in time for the next location to have opened. Having originally intended to leave it until last, I decided that I may as well tick it off now, particularly as it was two doors down and a couple of other venues wouldn't be opening for another hour or so. Next up: Twenty Ten.
Along with Bod, Twenty Ten is located on Dale Road, amongst a row of shops. A micropub in all but name, it boasts a larger floor plan than other micros and sits over a split level layout. The bar is to the right as you enter, with furniture scattered throughout in the form of sofas and comfortable chairs. To the rear, a small set of steps leads to an upper level with more seating and toilet access. Interesting artefacts, photos and objects are scattered throughout, and there is a book case in one corner that features, amongst other things, a selection of recent Good Beer Guides. As well as 4 handpulls, the bar also includes a line of keg taps on the back wall and is well stocked with snacks, wines and spirits. Lighting is subdued and adds to the relaxed ambience. Twenty Ten has built a strong reputation for its ales and not only does it feature in the 2023 Good Beer Guide, but it was also crowned Pub of the Year for 2022 by the local CAMRA branch. I was potentially about to find out why as I perused the available options which, once again, were mostly local. I was faced with a choice between Ossett White Rat, Dancing Duck Ay Up, Dancing Duck 22 and Thornbridge Brother Rabbit. I know I'd already had a Thornbridge beer earlier in the day but a collab doesn't count so I went for the Brother Rabbit (4%), one of their best known, and oldest, beers. Brother Rabbit is a golden ale with a lemony appearance. The aroma is hoppy and clean. There is some bitterness but the overall palate is dry and leads to a resinous finish. I hadn't had this beer in quite some time so it was great to be reacquainted with it. I enjoyed it whilst sunk into one of the comfy sofas, just across from the bar. Twenty Ten is a nice, little place with comfortable surroundings and good beer. What more could you want? Would I agree that it's the best pub in Matlock? Stay tuned!
There was more step retracing required now so I made my way back through the park again and back onto the street where I had previously turned off to get to the Red Lion. This time though, I turned right and headed up the aptly named Stoney Row. When I reached the top, I turned right again which brought me to the church of St. Giles and its attached graveyard. Following the road around as it curved slightly to the left, I saw my next stop appear, just over the road, in the shadow of the hill on which Riber Castle stands. I crossed over and made my way to The Duke William.
Under new management since 2018 and since completely refurbished, the Duke William sits in an idyllic location with a camping and caravan site included in the facilities, along with B&B accommodation. The front entrance leads down a central corridor which terminates at two doors, the lounge and dining room to the left and the smaller taproom to the right which features a dartboard and TV. Hand pumps feature in both rooms with the bar running between both. I opted to go left into the lounge, mistakenly assuming I was the only customer as the pub had just opened for the day. It later turned out there were a small number of people in the taproom but I wasn't fussed about having company. I was too distracted by the beer. Of the 3 handpumps in the lounge, two were in use providing a choice between Timothy Taylor Landlord and Abbeydale Moonshine. I was not going to pass up the chance to have one of my favourite ales of all time and so the Moonshine was quickly ordered. I chose to sit opposite the bar, on banquette seating that runs the length of the room, and take in my surroundings. Several original features have been retained, with exposed brickwork and painted beams and there are photos of the local area and objects of interest dotted around. The pub is very quiet, helped in no small part by its location and it's easy to imagine how busy it must get in the summer months with campers and walkers. Considering the pub is only a short walk from the centre of town, it's a pleasant oasis of calm. The beer isn't bad either. Though this is by no means the best pint of Moonshine I've ever had, it's refreshing and has all the flavours I still remember from the previous times I've had it.
I had two stops left to visit, both in close proximity to each other but opening an hour apart. It also meant another saunter back through the park and up a hill I had come down earlier. Whilst this wasn't the steepest of the hills I had tackled on the day, it was still hard work and I'm now of the opinion that the people of the Peak District have iron rods where their tibias should be. Having made my way through the park and over to Bank Road, I began my ascent, arriving a few minutes later in the shadow of the vast building that is the headquarters of Derbyshire County Council. Behind this building, forming a junction with Bank Road, is Smedley Street, the location of the Farmacy.
This Good Beer Guide 2023 listed micropub opened in June 2019 and is operated by Aldwark Artisan Ales, for which it acts as the de facto brewery tap. The brewery itself is based in a converted milking shed on a farm owned by the family who run both the brewery and the pub. Inside, the pub is split level. Downstairs features a couple of small booths as well as the bar, whilst a staircase to one side leads up to a smaller space with more seating and old farming implements hanging on the walls 'in case of zombies' as a nearby by sign helpfully suggests. 5 handpulls occupy the small bar but keg beers, wines and gin are also available along with standard bar snacks and pork pies. When I arrived, the pub was moderately busy, with a few people gathered at the downstairs tables. I had a clear route to the bar though and, with a few moments to catch my breath again after the walk, I was ready to make my choice. Two of the brewery's own beers were on offer, Hare of the Hill and Elixir Gold, alongside two guests in Ashover Coffee Stout and Welbeck Abbey Red Feather. The final hand pump is reserved for traditional cider which, on this occasion, was Mortimer's English Berry. It would have been frankly disgraceful to not select one of the brewery's own beers so I went for the Hare of the Hill (4.6%) and found a table in the vacant top section of the pub. I was very impressed by this pub before I'd even had a sip of the beer. Not only was the atmosphere relaxed and the environment comfortable and interesting, the staff were very knowledgeable and friendly. It was clear that a lot of time has been spent getting this place just right and it's reaping the rewards of returning and regular customers. What about the beer? Hare of the Hill is a hoppy, golden ale with grassy and floral notes and a crisp, clean finish. It was certainly a beer to savour and savour it I did, until the time came that my glass became empty and I needed to move on.
My final stop on the day's tour is a mere stone's throw from Farmacy, located as it is across the road junction on the opposite street, imaginatively named Smedley Street East. My day in Matlock would come to a close at the Good Beer Guide 2023 listed Newsroom.
Opening in July 2018, the Newsroom is a micropub, converted from a newsagent's premises but still owned and run by the same person. The one room is L-shaped with the long arm of the 'L' stretching away from the entrance. The small arm includes a bookcase featuring books and board games. Low tables and chairs are the signature furniture throughout. There is some exposed brickwork and the original sash windows have been renovated. The bar occupies one corner of the room and features 4 handpulls, as well as some keg lines, wines and gins. There is also an extensive bottled and canned beer selection available to drink in or take away. The lighting is subdued, lending a cosy feel to the place. I arrived at the Newsroom not long after opening and was surprised to already see a few people in. A few more would shortly appear as well, some of whom appeared to have followed me directly from Farmacy. In terms of beer choice, all of the handpulls were being utilised and I had a choice between North Riding Cascade Pale, Triple Point Alpha, Lenton Lane 200 Not Out and North Riding Pistachio Porter. I didn't fancy another dark beer at this stage and I still don't know whether or not I like pistachio as a flavour so I eventually selected the Cascade Pale from Scarborough's North Riding Brewery. This is a 4% pale ale focusing on the US Cascade hop, which lends unique citrus qualities to the beer. It's dry and flavourful, with delicate bitterness that isn't drowned by the hop content. I withdrew to one of the low tables to sup my final beer of the day. The Newsroom is a very good micropub and its close proximity to another one no doubt aids both places. Before too long, my beer supply had been exhausted so it was time to make the slog back downhill and through the park to reach the station for the return train.
What did I make of Matlock? It was something that I thought about during my train journey home. Overall, I'd thoroughly enjoyed exploring what is a very picturesque town. I'm glad I made the effort to finally get out there. It felt much less touristy and more like a town than it's near namesake down the road and I suppose that's to be expected. Primarily though, I need to think of it in the terms of which I went there in the first place and that's the beer scene. It's safe to say that the beer scene in Matlock is thriving. Even outside of the 4 Good Beer Guide listed pubs, the drinking environment is in rude health. There are plenty of options in plenty of unique places. I found things I wasn't expecting and places I had no idea existed. I also felt a real sense of community throughout the town and there was a pleasing absence of a lot of the mass-produced macro beers that are unfortunately becoming more prevalent. Matlock's tendency towards, and support of, local businesses and products can, and should, be commended and welcomed. There is much lingo around beer and pubs, not all of it flattering, but the words 'beer destination' are being used much more widely, although generally in the context of larger towns and cities. However, this particular corner of Derbyshire can certainly lay claim to that term if this all-too-brief visit is anything to go by.
Pub of the day: Farmacy. Well worth the walk up the hill for. And prepared for zombies.
Biggest surprise: Bod. It wasn't on my initial list but I'm glad I stumbled across it. A hidden gem.
Beer of the day: A tough call but just edged by Titanic Plum Porter. It's still an awesome beer.
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