Lincoln is a cathedral city and county town of Lincolnshire. The non-metropolitan district of Lincoln had a 2012 population of 94,600. The 2011 census gave the urban area of Lincoln, which includes North Hykeham and Waddington, a population of 130,200. Roman Lindum Colonia developed from an Iron Age settlement on the River Witham. The city's landmarks include Lincoln Cathedral, an example of English Gothic architecture and the tallest building in the world for over 200 years, and the 11th-century, Norman Lincoln Castle. The city is home to the University of Lincoln and Bishop Grosseteste University, and to Lincoln City FC and Lincoln United FC.
The earliest origins of Lincoln can be traced to the remains of an Iron Age settlement of round wooden dwellings (which were discovered by archaeologists in 1972) that have been dated to the 1st century BC. This settlement was built by a deep pool (the modern Brayford Pool) in the River Witham at the foot of a large hill (on which the Normans later built Lincoln Cathedral and Lincoln Castle). The origins of the name Lincoln may come from this period, when the settlement is thought to have been named in the Brythonic language of Iron Age Britain's Celtic inhabitants as Lindon 'The Pool', presumably referring to Brayford Pool (compare the etymology of the name Dublin, from the Gaelic dubh linn 'black pool'). The extent of this original settlement is unknown as its remains are now buried deep beneath the later Roman and medieval ruins and modern Lincoln.
The Romans conquered this part of Britain in AD 48 and shortly afterwards built a legionary fortress high on a hill overlooking the natural lake formed by the widening of the River Witham (the modern day Brayford Pool) and at the northern end of the Fosse Way Roman road (A46). The Celtic name Lindon was subsequently Latinised to Lindum and given the title Colonia
when it was converted into a settlement for army veterans. The conversion to a colonia was made when the legion moved on to York (Eboracum) in AD 71. Lindum colonia or more fully, Colonia Domitiana Lindensium, after the Emperor Domitian who ruled at the time, was established within the walls of the hilltop fortress with the addition of an extension of about equal area, down the hillside to the waterside below.
It became a major flourishing settlement, accessible from the sea both through the River Trent and through the River Witham. On the basis of the patently corrupt list of British bishops who attended the 314 Council of Arles, the city is now often considered to have been the capital of the province of Flavia Caesariensis which was formed during the late-3rd century Diocletian Reforms. Subsequently, however, the town and its waterways fell into decline. By the close of the 5th century the city was largely deserted, although some occupation continued under a Praefectus Civitatis, for Saint Paulinus visited a man of this office in Lincoln in AD 629.
During this period the Latin name Lindum Colonia was shortened in Old English to become first Lindocolina, then Lincylene.
After the first destructive Viking raids, the city once again rose to some importance, with overseas trading connections. In Viking times Lincoln was a trading centre that issued coins from its own mint, by far the most important in Lincolnshire and by the end of the 10th century, comparable in output to the mint at York. After the establishment of the Danelaw in 886, Lincoln became one of the Five Boroughs in the East Midlands. Excavations at Flaxengate reveal that this area, deserted since Roman times, received new timber-framed buildings fronting a new street system in about 900. Lincoln experienced an unprecedented explosion in its economy with the settlement of the Danes. Like York, the Upper City seems to have been given over to purely administrative functions up to 850 or so, while the Lower City, running down the hill towards the River Witham, may have been largely deserted. By 950, however, the banks of the Witham were newly developed with the Lower City being resettled and the suburb of Wigford quickly emerging as a major trading centre. In 1068, two years after the Norman conquest, William I ordered Lincoln Castle to be built on the site of the former Roman settlement, for the same strategic reasons and controlling the same road.
Construction of the first Lincoln Cathedral, within its close or walled precinct facing the castle, began when the see was removed from the quiet backwater of Dorchester-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, and was completed in 1092; it was rebuilt after a fire but was destroyed by an unusual earthquake in 1185. The rebuilt Lincoln Minster, enlarged to the east at each rebuilding, was on a magnificent scale, its crossing tower crowned by a spire reputed to have been 525 ft (160 m) high, the highest in Europe. When completed the central of the three spires is widely accepted to have succeeded the Great Pyramids of Egypt as the tallest man-made structure in the world. The Bishops of Lincoln were among the magnates of medieval England: the Diocese of Lincoln, the largest in England, had more monasteries than the rest of England put together, and the diocese was supported by large estates.
When Magna Carta was drawn up in 1215, one of the witnesses was Hugh of Wells, Bishop of Lincoln. One of only four surviving originals of the document is preserved in Lincoln Castle.
Among the most famous bishops of Lincoln were Robert Bloet, the magnificent justiciar to Henry I, Hugh of Avalon, the cathedral builder canonised as St Hugh of Lincoln, Robert Grosseteste, the 13th century intellectual, Henry Beaufort, chancellor of Henry V and Henry VI, Thomas Rotherham, a politician deeply involved in the Wars of the Roses, Philip Repyngdon, chaplain to Henry IV and defender of Wycliffe, and Thomas Wolsey, the lord chancellor of Henry VIII. Theologian William de Montibus was the head of the cathedral school and chancellor until his death in 1213.
The administrative centre was the Bishop's Palace, the third element in the central complex. When it was built in the late 12th century, the Bishop's Palace was one of the most important buildings in England. Built by Hugh of Lincoln, its East Hall range over a vaulted under-croft is the earliest surviving example of a roofed domestic hall. The chapel range and entrance tower were built by Bishop William of Alnwick, who modernised the palace in the 1430s. Both Henry VIII and James I were guests of bishops here; the palace was sacked by royalist troops during the civil war in 1648.
During the Anarchy, in 1141 Lincoln was the site of a battle between King Stephen and the forces of Empress Matilda, led by her illegitimate half-brother Robert, 1st Earl of Gloucester. After fierce fighting in the city's streets, S
tephen's forces were defeated. Stephen himself was captured and taken to Bristol.
tephen's forces were defeated. Stephen himself was captured and taken to Bristol.
By 1150, Lincoln was among the wealthiest towns in England. The basis of the economy was cloth and wool, exported to Flanders; Lincoln weavers had set up a guild in 1130 to produce Lincoln Cloth, especially the fine dyed 'scarlet' and 'green', the reputation of which was later enhanced by Robin Hood wearing woollens of Lincoln green. In the Guildhall that surmounts the city gate called the Stonebow, the ancient Council Chamber contains Lincoln's civic insignia, a particularly fine collection of civic regalia.
Outside the precincts of cathedral and castle, the old quarter clustered around the Bailgate, and down Steep Hill to the High Bridge, which bears half-timbered housing, with the upper storeys jutting out over the river. There are three ancient churches: St Mary le Wigford and St Peter at Gowts are both 11th century in origin and St Mary Magdalene, built in the late 13th century, is an unusual English dedication to the saint, whose cult was coming greatly into vogue on the European continent at that time.
Lincoln was home to one of the five most important Jewish communities in England, well established before it was officially noted in 1154. In 1190, anti-Semitic riots that started in King's Lynn, Norfolk, spread to Lincoln; the Jewish community took refuge with royal officials, but their habitations were plundered. The so-called House of Aaron has a two-storey street frontage that is essentially 12th century and a nearby Jew's House likewise bears witness to the Jewish population. In 1255, the affair called 'The Libel of Lincoln' in which prominent Jews of Lincoln, accused of the ritual murder of a Christian boy ('Little Saint Hugh of Lincoln' in medieval folklore) were sent to the Tower of London and 18 were executed. The Jews were expelled en masse in 1290.
During the 13th century, Lincoln was the third largest city in England and was a favourite of more than one king. During the First Barons' War, it became caught up in the strife between the king and the rebel barons, who had allied with the French. It was here and at Dover that the French and Rebel army was defeated. In the aftermath of the battle, the town was pillaged for having sided with Prince Louis. In 1266, during the Second Barons' War, the disinherited rebels attacked the Jews of Lincoln, ransacked the synagogue, and burned the records which registered debts.
According to some historians, the city's fortunes began to decline during the 14th century, although this assertion has been disputed, it being argued that the city remained buoyant in both trade and communications well into the 15th century. Thus in 1409, the city was made a county in its own right known as the County of the City of Lincoln. Thereafter, various additional rights being conferred on the town by successive monarchs, including those of an assay town (which controlled metal manufacturing, for example). The oldest surviving secular drama in English, The Interlude of the Student and the Girl (c. 1300), may have originated from Lincoln.
Lincoln's coat of arms, not officially endorsed by the College of Arms, is believed to date from the 14th century. It is Argent on a cross gules a fleur-de-lis or. The cross is believed to be derived from the Diocese of Lincoln, and the fleur-de-lis is the symbol of the Virgin Mary, to whom the cathedral is dedicated. The motto is CIVITAS LINCOLNIA (Latin for City of Lincoln).
The Dissolution of the Monasteries exacerbated Lincoln's problems, cutting off its main source of diocesan income and drying up the network of patronage controlled by the bishop, with no fewer than seven monasteries closed within the city alone. A number of nearby abbeys were also closed, which led to further diminution of the region's political power. When the cathedral's great spire rotted and collapsed in 1549 and was not replaced, it was a significant symbol of Lincoln's economic and political decline. However, the comparative poverty of post-medieval Lincoln preserved pre-medieval structures that would probably have been lost under more prosperous conditions.
Between 1642 and 1651, during the English Civil War, Lincoln was on the frontier between the Royalist and Parliamentary forces and changed hands several times. Many buildings were badly damaged. Lincoln now had no major industry and no easy access to the sea and was poorly situated. Thus while the rest of the country was beginning to prosper at the beginning of the 18th century, Lincoln suffered immensely, travellers often commenting on the state of what had essentially become a one-street town.
By the Georgian era, Lincoln's fortunes began to pick up, thanks in part to the Agricultural Revolution. The re-opening of the Foss Dyke canal allowed coal and other raw materials vital to industry to be more easily brought into the city. As well as the economic growth of Lincoln during this era, the city boundaries expanded to include the West Common. To this day, an annual Beat the Boundaries walk takes place along the perimeter of the common.
Coupled with the arrival of the railway links, Lincoln boomed again during the Industrial Revolution, and several world-famous companies arose, such as Ruston's, Clayton's, Proctor's and William Foster's. Lincoln began to excel in heavy engineering, building locomotives, steam shovels and all manner of heavy machinery. A permanent military presence was established in the city with the completion of the "Old Barracks" (now occupied by the Museum of Lincolnshire Life) in 1857; these were replaced by the "New Barracks" (now Sobraon Barracks) in 1890. Lincoln Drill Hall in Broadgate also opened in 1890.
Lincoln was hit by a major typhoid epidemic between November 1904 and August 1905 caused by polluted drinking water from Hartsholme Lake and the River Witham. Over 1,000 people contracted the disease and fatalities totalled 131, including the man responsible for the city's water supply, Liam Kirk of Baker Crescent. Near the beginning of the epidemic, Dr. Alexander Cruickshank Houston installed a chlorine disinfection system just ahead of the poorly operating slow sand filter to kill the bacteria causing the epidemic. Chlorination of the water supply continued until 1911 when a new water supply was implemented. The Lincoln chlorination episode was one of the first uses of the chemical to disinfect a water supply. Westgate Water Tower was constructed to provide new water supplies to the city.
In the two world wars, Lincoln switched to war production. The first ever tanks were invented, designed and built in Lincoln by William Foster & Co. during the First World War and population growth provided more workers for even greater expansion. The tanks were tested on land now covered by Tritton Road (in the south-west suburbs of the city). During the Second World War, Lincoln produced a vast array of war goods, from tanks, aircraft, munitions and military vehicles.
Lincoln lies 157 mi (253 km) north of London by road, at a height of 67 ft (20.4 m) above sea level by the River Witham, stretching to 246 ft (75.0 m) above sea level around the cathedral. It occupies a gap in the Lincoln Cliff (an escarpment that runs north and south through Lindsey and Kesteven, in central Lincolnshire and reaches an altitude of 200 feet (61 metres)). The city is also 76 miles (123 km) north-east of Birmingham, 32 miles (51 km) north-east of Nottingham, 47 miles (76 km) north of Peterborough and 40 miles (64 km) east south-east of Sheffield.
The city lies on the River Witham, which flows through this gap. Lincoln is thus divided informally into two zones, known unofficially as uphill and downhill.
The uphill area comprises the northern part of the city, on top of the Lincoln Cliff (to the north of the gap). This area includes the historical quarter, including Lincoln Cathedral, Lincoln Castle and the Medieval Bishop's Palace, known locally as The Bail (although described in tourist promotional literature as the Cathedral Quarter). It includes residential suburbs to the north and north-east. The downhill area comprises the city centre (located in the gap) and the suburbs to the south and south-west. The aptly named Steep Hill is a narrow, pedestrian street connecting the two (too steep for vehicular traffic). It passes through an archway known as the Stonebow. This divide, peculiar to Lincoln, was once an important class distinction, with uphill more affluent and downhill less so. The distinction dates from the time of the Norman conquest, when the religious and military elite occupied the hilltop. The construction and expansion of suburbs in both parts of the city since the mid-19th century has diluted the distinction, but uphill housing continues to fetch a premium.
As can be seen from the above, Lincoln is a very old and very historic city which has endured all manner of triumphs and tragedies throughout the centuries. What such triumphs and tragedies would be awaiting us on an unsettled August Saturday? The time had come to dive in and find out!
We arrived in Lincoln by train just before 11.30am after a journey of less than an hour and immediately set about getting our bearings. Our route would take this through the quieter outskirts before climbing to the cathedral area and back down again on the return journey to bring us back to where we began. Making our way out of the station we headed into a nearby shopping complex which straddles the River Witham. Crossing the river over a small bridge, we located our first stop of the day, sitting almost on the river itself with restaurants and shops behind. Our adventure began at the Witch & Wardrobe.
Believed to be amongst the oldest buildings still standing in Lincoln today, the building that is now the Witch & Wardrobe was initially built in the 13th century. The original 13th century walls are still extant inside the pub with a 15th century exterior built around the original shell. During the time of this extension, a tomb was buried in the west external wall. This can still be seen, in the form of a triangular lid on a square base, opposite the loading bay of the nearby shopping centre. The building itself is believed to have once been 2 of a row of 3 terraced houses. In the 19th century, the first house, which constitutes the half of the pub from the left side to the front door, was a fishmongers and the second house was a hairdressers. The third house in the row was located beside the pub, where a restaurant now stands. Throughout it's history the building has been a trading post, a gentlemen's retreat and also a bakery and was a highly popular chip shop for many years until 1979. It has also revealed more of its secrets. During 1970s renovation work, an original 17th century wooden spiral staircase was discovered behind false walls. This is now situated at the west side of the bar. Also discovered was a so-called 'Bull's Eye', a small, coloured glass window which would have been part of the original external wall. This is also still in place and can be seen to the right hand side of the bar. For over 30 years, the pub has operated under its current name and was originally a Mansfield Brewery pub before they were bought out by Wolverhampton and Dudley Breweries (subsequently known as Marston's) in 2000.
Inside, the age of the building can be clearly seen. A central doorway leads directly to the bar which is divided by pillars that separate the interior into sections. To the left is a room with a TV and seating and to the right, another room with banquette seating, a pool table and another television. To the rear of the main area are further seating areas. The central L-shaped bar serves all of the available sides. In a small section of the bar, between two pillars sits a bank of handpulls, 5 in total. All of them are in use at the time of our visit and offer a choice of Pedigree, Bombardier, the house Witches Brew (brewed by Ringwood), Mansfield Bitter and Courage Director's. I opted to start the day with Bombardier whilst Amy decided on the Witches Brew. The Bombardier hit the spot after our travels and was kept very nicely. Amy agreed that the Witches Brew was very good as well. We enjoyed our drinks in the larger of the two side areas, near the pool table and enjoyed the overheard conversations of the locals. Whilst the pub was quiet at the time, it's easy to see how it could get quite busy, especially given the accessibility of its picturesque location. It's obviously a very old as can be seen from the original brickwork that has been left exposed on some of the walls. If tales are to be believed, these are not the only shadows of the past that remain. More ethereal things are going on. Beer pumps have been known to turn on when nobody is near them, ice has been thrown around and disembodied voices are often heard. A paranormal investigation team in 2010 captured an unknown voice on their audio equipment. Explanations for this activity come in the form of an elderly lady, a former owner of the building, who is believed to have broken her neck falling down the aforementioned spiral staircase and has been seen in spirit form on more than one occasion. There is also evidence that the building may once have been a mortuary for children which perhaps connects to the tomb found on the premises. The childlike nature of some of the alleged poltergeist activity may lend some truth to this!
Back in the world of the living it was time for us to head on to our next destination, which was much closer than I initially thought which led to us arriving a few minutes before opening time. Soon however, we were welcomed into The Jolly Brewer.
Listed in the Good Beer Guide, this Art Deco style pub is situated at the foot of Lindum Hill. Inside, the décor is quirky with colourful bar tables, portraits of famous musicians by local artists and a side room that features reclaimed cinema seating. There is an extension to the rear which features the toilets and a large rear garden that includes a stage for live bands as well as reclaimed traffic lights on one wall (sadly not in use). A jukebox plays most of the time and, not long after we arrived, began playing Alkaline Trio, one of my favourite bands. The bar is long and runs almost the length of one wall. 6 handpumps feature, with 5 in use on the day, offering a choice of Welbeck Abbey Henrietta, VoG Lady Liberty, Milestone Black Pearl, Horncastle Virgil's Journey and Black Hole Supernova. After a moment's deliberation, I decided on the Lady Liberty (4.8%) from Barry-based Vale of Glamorgan brewery. This is an American style pale ale packed with Simcoe and Mosaic and dry-hopped with Citra for big citrus and tropical flavours. It's a cracking beer and I'm glad I selected it. Amy opted for cider on this occasion and I have it on authority that that was delicious too! We began sitting on the reclaimed cinema seating but then decided to enjoy the outside space whilst it was dry outside. This is an absolute belter of a pub and we were both very pleased that we'd put on the day's itinerary, However, in amongst the triumph, a full blown tragedy. The pub is closing! Due to the lease expiring with nobody to carry it on, it is on the market. No buyer has yet come forward which means, by the time you read this, the doors at The Jolly Brewer may well have closed. It needs saving. This is clearly an absolute disaster for the pub specifically and for Lincoln's drinking scene in general. Too many good pubs have already fallen by the wayside and it needs to stop. To lose a pub like this is not just a tragedy, it's almost a crime. If nothing can be done and this truly is the end than I'm at least glad I managed to get to this place. If only I'd gotten there sooner so it wasn't the only chance I'd get.
Crestfallen at having to leave such a wonderful place, especially if it's the only time we'll ever get to go, we set to lift our spirits by making our way to the next pub. This meant ascending Lindum Hill to the summit, something which didn't take anything like as long as predicted. At the top of said hill lay our reward, the Adam & Eve Tavern.
One of many pubs to lay claim to being Lincoln's oldest, the Adam & Eve dates back to the 1700s and may even have been built on top of an earlier site that was used to house masons working on the nearby cathedral. Formerly known as the Angel, its present name was a very popular one for taverns at the time of its construction. Its old world charm remains with thick walls and low beams throughout. The bar occupies a wall of the main room and interior has been opened out but still retains a number of smaller rooms, separated by supporting walls. The pub is Good Beer Guide listed and features 5 handpumps on the bar, with one given over to Lilley's Mango Cider. The remaining 4 provide the choice of Castle Rock Harvest Pale, Morland Old Speckled Hen, Wadworth Horizon and Timothy Taylor Landlord. I've enjoyed Horizon before, most notably in Wiltshire with Matt so this seemed like a fitting choice here and so it proved. With Amy again opting for cider we rewarded our efforts in braving the hill by enjoying our drinks in the outside area to the rear, which is occupied by picnic style tables and accessed up a flight of steps. The steps also host what appears to be the original pub sign showing Adam, Eve and an angelic figure. The sign has been nailed to a wall at the bottom of the steps and is mildly disconcerting at first glance. Perhaps predictably for a pub of its age, the Adam & Eve also has many a ghost story attached to it. A man in a priest's cassock has been seen sitting at a table in one of the rooms reading a large book before disappearing. The sounds of marching troops has been heard from the hill outside the pub but closer inspection reveals no sign of anyone. The most compelling (read distressing) apparition is that of a severed head seen rolling from the archway that stands across the road from the pub. The origin of this remains unexplained, as perhaps it should. This is a suitably atmospheric place for a beverage! Speaking of which, the beer was excellent! Horizon (4%) is a golden ale brewed with both classic and New World hops which combine for zesty, citrus aromas and a tangy finish on the palate.
Once again it was soon time to move on but, at least for now, we had beaten the hill. Continuing along the road which has now become Wragby Road, we walked for a few more minutes before we spotted our next location over the road on our left at a junction. Our attentions now turned to the Peacock Inn.
Prominently situated, this round fronted Greene King property has been extended into adjacent houses. Inside, the main bar is small but cosy with the bar on the rear wall and banquette seating around the interior walls. A supporting wall at one end divides the drinking area from a large, long restaurant space at the rear. Two TVs feature on the walls, showing 2 different football matches whilst we're there. 3 of the 5 available hand pumps are in use with the choices of Greene King IPA, Morland Old Golden Hen and Ruddles County. I genuinely wasn't sure I'd had County before so that made my decision easy. At 4.3% it's a traditional English amber ale brewed with Goldings, Challenger and Bramling Cross hops for aromas of soft fruit and blackcurrant. There's a robust bitterness and is balanced nicely with sweetness from the use of 2 different malts. All in all, it's a pleasant surprise, especially when a very cute Rottweiler turns up! The Peacock is the busiest pub we've visited up to this point but with it being lunchtime and the bar area being small, it's not difficult to fill the place. The next few pubs on the list would certainly be busier than the ones up to this point, due to being more centrally located around the cathedral and the historic areas of the city.
Moving on from the Peacock we made our way along Greetwell Gate which runs parallel to the front door. Passing the nearby Morning Star and the impressive cathedral we eventually reached Bailgate, where we turned right to find our next stop a very short distance away. Our wanderings had delivered us to the Lion & Snake.
This large, comfortable Marston's pub is partly timber-framed, Grade II listed and claims to be the oldest pub in the city. Records suggest that the property has been licensed for 600 years and it is located at what would once have been the centre of an old Roman colony. The name changed a few times from 1649 when it was known as the Ram, before becoming respectively the Earl of Scarborough's Arms and the Red Lion & Snake. The present name has been in use since 1834. The pub benefits from its central location between the cathedral, Lincoln Castle and a Roman arch. Underground passageways have been discovered throughout the area and ancient city columns are still visible outside the pub as are the remains of an old Roman well. Inside, the large bar sits along one wall with seating at other side and directly opposite. The pub is very busy when we arrive but it doesn't take us long to get served and it's only a matter of time before we've perused the selection. 5 handpumps are present here featuring, as you'd expect, beers from the Marston range namely Marston's Saddle Tank, Wychwood Hobgoblin Gold, Marston's EPA, Lancaster Bomber and Jennings Sneck Lifter. I went this time for the Lancaster Bomber, Amy went for a cider and we decided to once again enjoy a drink outside. The rear courtyard area features several picnic style benches, most with parasols, which is handy given that it started to rain shortly after we sat down. The rear itself is quite large and back onto the beer garden of the Prince of Wales Inn next door. The Lancaster Bomber was in very good condition and proved to be a good choice. This is yet another Lincoln pub where history oozes from the fabric. Some of it remains too if alleged ghostly tales are to be believed. A ghostly Roman soldier has been seen in the cellar on multiple occasions and the ghost of a dishevelled elderly man drinking a pint of beer has been spotted in the bar area before vanishing when approached. The most well known apparition is known as 'Granny with the bun'. She is described as an elderly lady with a 1920s style hairstyle and has been known to push past people in corridors but she is accepted as being generally harmless. As well as the ghost stories, the name of the pub is also interesting. It is believed to have resulted from when a new landlord took over in the 18th century. A common practice at the time amongst landlords was to combine the name of their old pub with their new one and that may be what happened here.
I was very excited about our next destination. Luckily it wasn't far away. Leaving the Lion & Snake, we made our way over the road and, via Greggs, headed down Westgate at the end of which stood our next destination on the left. Introducing, The Strugglers Inn.
Located at the base of the castle walls, this small and very popular pub is known locally as the Struggs. The unusual name and the accompanying sign apparently stems from the fact that a former landlord was a notorious hangman. Inside the pub is small with a central bar area surrounded by tables and bench seating. A small, comfortable snug is to the right of the entrance decorated like a cosy living room complete with old photos and a full bookshelf. To the rear of the pub is a sunken terrace with brightly coloured furniture and a covered smoking shelter. A small doorway off from the bar leads to the toilets. The Strugglers is Good Beer Guide listed, has won many awards and was recently crowned local Pub of the Year for 2019. The interior has been identified by CAMRA as been of regional historic importance and, to continue the truly historic theme, payment is by cash only. The Strugglers was already my favourite pub of the day before we'd even sat down. A full complement of 10 handpulls stood before us on the bar offering an awful lot of choice. On the day our options were: Timothy Taylor Knowle Spring, Greene King Abbot Ale, St. Austell Tribute, Wold Top Wold Gold, Oakham JHB, Ossett Excelsior, Ashover Zoo, Titanic Plum Porter and Acorn Gorlovka. Once my brain snapped out of its wonderment, I selected the Excelsior whilst Amy went for Aspall's. We took a seat directly opposite the bar where we were welcomed by two Dalmatians belong to another customer. The sheer myriad of awards won by this place speak volumes. As do the hundreds of pump clips that cover the ceilings, walls and more or less every vertical surface. This place is amazing and everybody should stop what they're doing and go there right now. Maybe let them know first. There's not much room. What of the beer? Excelsior (5.2%) is a classic pale ale brewed with pale malt and American hops. It's smooth, fruity and full bodied with a refreshing citrus hop aroma and a deceptive bitterness. It's definitely easier to drink than its ABV would suggest! No old pub is complete without a ghost and there's one too, although this is one is distinctly inhuman. A dog, believed to belong to a former customer who was hanged for murder, has been seen sitting by the bar where he briefly howls before disappearing. Occasionally, scratching and whining sounds are heard to indicate the phantom canine's presence. His refusal to leave the pub is allegedly due to him being kept in the pub when he was stuffed post mortem. It seems he is forever waiting for his owner to return. I'm not crying, you're crying.
It really was a struggle to leave this pub but we were only halfway through the day so now we retraced our steps, heading back to Bailgate before turning right and making our way to the top of the incredibly aptly named Steep Hill were our next pubs was located. Next up, the Magna Carta.
Named after the 13th century historical document (one of only 4 copies of which is preserved at the nearby castle), the pub is in a prime position in the shadow of the cathedral. Inside, the interior is split level with the main bar area on the ground floor and additional seating on the floors above and below. The long bar takes up the entire portion of the rear wall and is equipped with 5 handpumps, 4 of which were in use on the day. The options here were Pheasantry BB alongside Bombardier, Pedigree and Hobgoblin. Amy and I matched up our choices here, both of us going for Hobgoblin before we made our way to a table that we'd located in the downstairs room. This is a very pleasant pub with attractive décor and artefacts. Our arrival here couldn't have been better timed as the heavens well and truly opened shortly afterwards which led to a mass influx of people trying to get out of the rain and finding a shortage of available seating. The room in which we sat was almost a perfect square containing four or five tables all of which were occupied with a mix of drinkers and diners. It was certainly a pleasant spot to enjoy a very well kept drop of Hobgoblin. Our departure from here was also well timed. Not only had the rain significantly lessened but a stag do had just entered the building dressed as golfers.
Our next stop was only a few doors away, slightly further down the hill on the opposite side. We had now arrived at the Wig & Mitre.
Occupying buildings that have been in use since the 14th century, the Wig & Mitre is a privately owned freehouse with a TARDIS-like interior. The narrow frontage leads through into a lounge-like room with tables for drinkers. A narrow doorway leads through to the bar with further seating up a small flight of stairs behind. A staircase at both ends of the building leads to a first floor restaurant. Decor throughout has lots of character with items like decorative plates and the furniture is a mix of traditional tables and smart sofas. The small bar sits between the 2 ground floor rooms next to the kitchen area and features a bank of 4 handpumps. On this occasion our options were between Black Sheep Bitter, Ferry Ales Just Jane, Oakham Citra and Sharp's Doom Bar. With Citra being one of my favourite beers, I didn't need much time at all to make my choice. Amy switched back to cider with Aspall's being available on draught. We took a seat at a small table in the main room to the front. The Citra was absolutely spot on which made me very happy. This is a cracking little place. I hadn't known what to expect from it but it was well worth the visit and any worries I might have had about it soon evaporated. It felt like my beer had evaporated too but there would be plenty of that available at the next pub.
Reaching our next stop meant navigating Steep Hill. The advantage of this was that we were at least going down it after a few beers instead of up. The downside was that, in case it wasn't obvious, the hill is much more treacherous when it's been raining. I almost learned this to my cost when my Converse parted from the wet cobbles and I very nearly fell on my arse. Thankfully I managed to panic correct without any lasting damage. I like to think I styled it out. Having successfully made our way down the hill, it wasn't hard to spot our next destination which sat almost directly in front of us. It was time for the Cardinal's Hat.
Another Good Beer Guide listed pub, this timber-framed building dates from the 15th century and was an inn from 1521 until around 1800. Reputedly named after Cardinal Wolsey who was Bishop of Lincoln 1514-1515, is was sympathetically restored by St. John Ambulance in 1952-53. The recent conversion to its present state was sensitive to the buildings age and original features, several of which remain throughout. Inside, there are a number of distinct areas. The bar is roughly central with seating opposite and at the edges. An area to one side contains further seating and there lots of little nooks and crannies and quieter areas. There is a small outside seating area with metal tables and chairs complementing the outside aesthetic. The whole feel of the place is like stepping back in time with plenty of windows to watch the world go by. The bar is very well appointed with an impressive 12 hand pumps, divided into 3 banks of 4. 8 of these are for ales with 4 more for cider so there is a considerable amount of choice. The options on the day were Lincolnshire Craft Beers Lincoln Gold, Adnams Mosaic, Rat White Rat, the house Cardinal's Ale (brewed by Lincolnshire Craft Beers), Brewster's Krafty Kiwi, Green Duck Blush, Kirkstall Three Swords and Atom Dark Matter. The cider choices were Orchard Pig Chilli & Ginger, Lilley's Lemon & Lime, Snails Bank Raspberry Ripple and Westons Old Rosie. After much debating, I finally decided on the Blush (4.5%) from Stourbridge's Green Duck Brewery. Amy chose a cider and we headed outside where the downpour had abated and the sun was out. The beer was delicious. Blush is a dual hopped New Zealand pale ale with floral and lime aromas and a zesty finish. The trip down the hill was certainly worth it to find this place!
There was slightly more walking involved in order to find our next location. Heading away from the historic part of Lincoln, we took a route into a more residential area via Hungate and Newland Street West, almost at the end of which can be found the West End Tap.
Formerly known as The Vine, this corner pub has recently reopened with a new name and new ownership after an extensive refurbishment. Very much a community pub, the feel inside is a relaxed one with an open plan layout and booth style seating opposite a rectangular bar. There is an enclosed garden space that acts as a suntrap and also leads to the toilets which are in an adjoining annex. The bar itself features 6 hand pumps. At the time of our visit, 5 were in use proffering 3 ales and 2 ciders in the form of Timothy Taylor Knowle Spring, Morland Best, Thornbridge Jaipur, Lilley's Rhubarb and Lilley's Mango. I went straight for the Jaipur and Amy on this occasion opted for Hoegarden before we realised too late that Aspall's was available. We took a seat in one of the booths, near to where a set of decks had been set up in preparation for a reggae night later on. The Jaipur was in good form and I'm glad I chose it. I hadn't had it for a while but it seemed like an appropriate time of day for a 5.9% beer. As much as the pub felt relaxed it was also a bit of an odd one. It was strangely quiet for a Saturday afternoon but this could perhaps have been due largely to its residential location. At the very least, the beer was good and that's what counts.
More retracing of our steps was required for the next pub. Leaving the West End Tap, we walked back the way we had came but then took the next right. This led us to a main road which culminated in a busy traffic junction on the other side of which is the Horse & Groom.
Situated adjacent to Brayford Pool and the A57 entry into the city, the Horse & Groom has benefited from a refurbishment in a modern and relaxed style. Inside, an L shaped bar sits against the wall with seating in front and around to rear, where a restaurant area sits adjacent to the kitchen. Entry to the pub is through a door that leads out to the car park or through a more central entrance accessed through the beer garden. Dividing walls break the interior space up into smaller sections giving the place a rather homely feel. 4 handpulls sit on the bar and half of these were available to choose between, the options being Navigation Strawberry Creamhead and Doom Bar. No prizes for guessing which option I went for. The Strawberry Creamhead (5.1%) is a milkshake pale ale with smooth, creamy strawberry flavours. It's like drinking a dessert in all the good ways! I thoroughly the beer and Amy enjoyed her cider whilst we sat at a comfortable table roughly between the bar and kitchen. The bar staff were kind enough to allow me to charge my phone so a big thumbs up all round!
We had time for one final pub before our return train journey home and our final candidate was only a short walk. A nearby pedestrian path runs alongside Brayford Pool, at the end of which lie several pubs and restaurants, the last of which is the Royal William IV.
Situated at Brayford Wharf, the Royal William IV is a sister pub to the Horse & Groom and is named after the man who was king of Great Britain between 1830-1837. He died without legitimate issue and so the throne passed to his niece Victoria. Inside the pub is very spacious. The bar sits in the approximate centre and there is seating throughout which is a good mix of traditional tables and more comfortable, relaxed seating. 4 handpumps are prominent on the bar and on the day they offered a choice between Cameron's Strongarm, Ferry Ales 3B, 4T's IPA and Timothy Taylor Landlord. I've had good beers from 4T's before so I opted for more of the same this time. Amy was happy to stick to Aspall's for the last pub of the day. At 4.6%, the IPA was very tasty indeed. Hopped with Amarillo, Apollo, Centennial and Warrior, the beer is bursting with citrus and grapefruit flavours and a nice, punchy bitterness that rounds the whole thing out. It was certainly a fantastic beer to end the day on!
With our glasses drained for the final time, we now made our way back to the train station for the journey home, heads filled with memories of the day. What did Amy and I think of Lincoln? It was ace! The range of pubs and beers we experienced on the day were testament to the fair city and left us wanting more. There were absolute stand outs, namely The Strugglers and The Jolly Brewer (whatever it's ultimate fate may be) and some pleasant surprises in the shape of the Cardinal's Hat, Magna Carta and Wig & Mitre. All in all, it was a fantastic day and, with so many pubs in Lincoln that we never even got near, it would be rude not to go back in future. Ultimately, it's hard to consider this as anything other than a rousing success. There are certainly worse ways to spend a Saturday!
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