Shardlow is a village in Derbyshire, England about 6 miles (9.7 km) southeast of Derby and 11 miles (18 km) southwest of Nottingham. Part of the civil parish of Shardlow and Great Wilne, and the district of South Derbyshire, it is also very close to the border with Leicestershire, defined by route of the River Trent which passes close to the south. Just across the Trent is the Castle Donington parish of North West Leicestershire.
An important late 18th century river port for the transshipment of goods to and from the River Trent to the Trent and Mersey Canal, during its heyday from the 1770s to the 1840s it became referred to as "Rural Rotterdam" and "Little Liverpool". Today Shardlow is considered Britains most complete surviving example of a canal village, with over 50 Grade II listed buildings and a large number of surviving public houses within the designated Shardlow Wharf Conservation Area.
Due to its location on the River Trent, which up to this point is easily navigable, there is much early evidence of human activity in the area, dating back to 1500 BC. In 1999 the 12-foot-long (3.7 m) 1300 BC Hanson Log Boat, a Bronze Age log boat was discovered at the nearby Hanson plc gravel pit. Sawn into sections so that it could be transported and conserved, the boat is now in Derby Museum and Art Gallery. Five years later, a JCB in the quarry unearthed a bronze sword imbedded in a vertical position in the gravel. There is also a stone age tumulus at Lockington, an Iron Age settlement between Shardlow/Wilne and the river, and later Roman finds at Great Wilne.
In 1009 Æþelræd Unræd (King Ethelred the Unready) signed a charter at the Great Council which recognised the position and boundaries of Westune. The land described in that charter included the lands now known as Shardlow, Great Wilne, Church Wilne, Crich, Smalley, Morley, Weston and Aston-on-Trent. Under this charter Æþelræd gave his minister a number of rights that made him free from tax and to his own rule within the manor.
The village is listed as Serdelau in the Domesday Book - translated as a settlement near a mound with a notch or indentation – but there have been up to 20 different spellings noted by historians.[2] The oldest surviving building today in the village is believed to be the "Dog & Duck" public house, located in the upper end of the village.
The River Trent below Shardlow is navigable all the way to the Humber Estuary, as is the River Soar which joins 2 miles (3.2 km) further down stream. Resultantly Shardlow was always an important transport hub and trading point, as wide-beam ships and boats traded cargo commercially with the pack horse trails going across the region. The tariffs charged for goods proceeding through the port, enabled industrialist Leonard Fosbrooke to build Shardlow Hall, and later lead to skirmishes being fought locally during the English Civil War for control of the strategic transport hub.
The original London to Manchester road (later a turnpike designed by the Duke of Devonshire's architect James Paine, now the A6) passes through the village, having crossed the Trent at Cavendish Bridge. By 1310, a rope-hauled ferry boat had replaced the last of a series of medieval bridges that crossed the Trent at what was known as Wilden Ferry. Later archaeological investigations in the Hemington Fields quarry, revealed that the three wooden bridges were destroyed by floods between 1140 and 1309. During this period the unstable gravel bed of the Trent was affected by a succession of large floods, which meant that the river shifted its course significantly during this time, demolishing the bridges and an adjacent Norman mill weir.
The cost to cross Paine's original 1738 bridge during its years serving as a tollroad was 2s 6d (12p) for carriages. It survived in service until 1947, when the Trent swollen by a rapid thaw swept its supports away. The British Army provided a temporary Bailey Bridge, which was replaced by the present structure in 1957. Today the pediment of Paine's bridge survives as a preserved structure, with the toll charges engraved into it.
Due to the discovery in 1720 of heated flint being able to turn the North Staffordshire reddish-clay into a lusterous white-sheen ware, from the 18th Century volumes of cargo shipped through Shardlow accelerated, supplying product and shipping ware internationally from the Stoke-on-Trent potteries.
James Brindley built the Trent and Mersey Canal from 1766 to 1777. With a vision to connect all four of England's main rivers together – the Mersey, Trent, Severn and Thames – he created the only other comparative canal port to Shardlow in the town of Stourport-on-Severn. Brindley developed his canal through Shardlow in 1770, to join the River Trent at Great Wilne .5 miles (0.80 km) further down stream at the junction with the River Derwent, which was also up to that point navigable. As a result, Shardlow quickly developed as an important UK river port, a transshipment point between the broad river barges and ships, and the canal's narrow boats. Shardlow later became the head office site of the Trent and Mersey Canal.
The port outline as exists today was formed by 1816, when the 12 canal basins had been excavated. But the warehouses around them were extensively reconstructed as trade developed, so that by 1820 the larger structures with the suburst windows which exist today, had replaced the earlier buildings. The wharfs and associated warehouses each had designated functions, which included: coal; timber; iron; cheese; corn; and salt. Other business which developed alongside the port included: boat builders; ropewalks; stables; offices, including the head office site of the Trent and Mersey Canal; plus workers cottages and owner's houses. Two families particularly made their fortunes: the Soresburys with rapid horse-drawn 'fly boats' on the Trent; and the Suttons with their barges and narrow boats.
The importance and vitality of the port resulted in the town becoming referred to as "Rural Rotterdam" and "Little Liverpool", with the population rising from 200 in 1780 to a peak of 1,306 in 1841.
However, the subsequent arrival of the Midland Railway and associated railway branches to the area in the 1840s signalled the beginning of the end; by 1861 the population had fallen to 945, of whom 136 were in the workhouse. By 1886 the port was virtually abandoned, yet the end only came with the formation of the nationalised British Waterways in 1947, which quickly resulted in the removal of the formal designation of Shardlow as a port.
In 1816, a large group of parishes from Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire erected a joint workhouse to the west of Shardlow, which had required the UK Parliament to approve the "Shardlow and Wilne Poor Relief Act". But with an expanding number of poor people to cope with, the Union negotiated from 1834 to expand to 46 parishes encompassing a population of 29,812, ranging in population scale from Hopwell (23) to Castle Donington (3,182). The "Shardlow Poor Law Union" formally came into existence on 30 March 1837, governed by an elected board of 57 guardians. The building was enlarged by Derby-based architect Henry Isaac Stevens at a cost of £2,800 in 1838-9, to increase its capacity to 230.
Shardlow and Great Wilne had been included in the parish of Aston-on-Trent until 1838. But with the formation of the poor union, the combined parishes agreed to fund a parish church for the town, resulting in the opening of St James's Church designed by H.I. Stevens, so that in the following year Shardlow became a parish in its own right.
In 1905, the workhouse started its conversion to a hospital, with new buildings to its south. Post World War II under the National Health Service it formally became "The Grove" hospital, which was closed in 2005 and subsequently demolished in 2007.
The last grain-carrying narrow boat delivered its cargo to Shardlow in the early 1950s. In 1957 the stable block which had housed over 100 towing horses were demolished, latterly followed by some of the smaller warehouses and buildings over the next 20 years. A campaign led by the newly formed Trent & Mersey Canal Society resulted in the designation in 1975 of the Shardlow Wharf Conservation Area, which today encompasses over 50 Grade II listed buildings.
During the 1970s, the men-only "Pavilion Club" flourished in the old cricket club. Then uniquely owned and operated by its gay members, it burnt down in the late 1980s. The subsequent insurance payout went into a local trust, which supported LGBT causes in the area for many years.
Today the relatively small village is considered Britain's most complete surviving example of a canal village. Most of the warehouses and other port buildings have been converted to other commercial uses, or as private dwellings.
So, for such a small village, relatively unknown outside of the local area, there is a lot of historical interest and, for the purposes of my visit, quite a large number of pubs, though not quite as many as the 13 that it used to boast. My journey began, as a lot of them tend to, with a bus ride to get me as close as possible to the village. This meant getting the Skylink from Nottingham city centre and getting off at the A50 Sawley roundabout. This was followed by a short walk past some picturesque countryside as I enjoyed the pleasant sunshine and the mild temperatures for February. As mentioned I had previously passed through Shardlow but never been able to stop so I was looking forward to the prospect of further investigating this particular part of the world.
After a brief walk, I identified my first location, just past a Chinese restaurant and down a side road off the main road just before Cavendish Bridge. Following this road, I reached my first stop after a couple more minutes of walking. Tucked away in a lower part of the village, with the Trent visible just behind, is The Old Crown Inn.
This former coaching inn dates from the 17th Century and has built up a significant reputation in recent years for its excellent food and real ale. The pub survived being severely flooded twice in a number of weeks just before Christmas 2012 but kept plugging away and has built a loyal customer base amongst locals and visitors. Inside, the original oak beamed ceiling has been retained and this displays an extensive collection of old jugs with the walls adorned with pub mirrors, brewery signs and railway memorabilia which even extends into the toilets. The interior is cosy and open-plan and divided into 2 areas with a large inglenook on the right. The bar sits between these areas directly opposite the main entrance. This bar includes 7 handpulls, 6 of which are in use during my visit and the choice is interesting, offering Marston's Sunbeam, Old Empire, Pedigree and EPA, as well as Single Hop El Dorado and Wychwood Dirty Tackle. I decided to begin my day with the El Dorado (4%), which offered distinctive dried fruit aromas and a citrusy, tropical bitterness with a herbal note in the aftertaste. This was a refreshing drop after my walk so I took in a small alcove next to the door directly facing the bar and admired my surroundings. It had definitely been a good idea to seek this pub out as it put me in high spirits for what was to come later.
To reach the next stop on the day's itinerary, I retraced my steps to the main road and this time crossed Cavendish Bridge into the village proper with the Trent winding away either side and separating the counties of Derbyshire and Leicestershire. I was immediately struck by how nice this area of the country is and Shardlow marks the 4th time I have been out this way, following previous trips to the neighbouring villages of Sawley, Castle Donington and, most recently, Kegworth. With this is mind, I was hoping for similar levels of success for the remainder of the trip. My next location is situated square on to the main road, at the junction with Wilne Lane. I had arrived at the Navigation Inn.
This traditional pub has recently undergone a change in management so I was mildly apprehensive when I saw the large banners proclaiming this fact as I entered. For a long time, this was the only remaining Davenports house in the area. Inside, there is seating areas over 2 levels with the bar just to the right as you enter through the front door. There is games room with a pool table and dartboard off to one side and outside seating to both the front and rear. The bar features 4 handpulls, arranged in a bank of 3 with a standalone pump at the opposite end. The ales to choose from are Pedigree, Castle Rock Harvest Pale, Black Sheep Bitter and Thorley & Sons Pale & Interesting from out near Ilkeston way. Not quite prepared to dive in at the deep end just yet, I opted instead for trusty Harvest Pale, which was in great condition. I took a seat on a table tucked way behind part of a partition wall and enjoyed my beer. The day thus far was going well and the weather was still glorious. One odd thing I noticed about the layout of this pub is that the cellar is directly behind the bar, accessible through a normal doorway. I have to confess to being a little bit of a nerd with regards to the positioning of pub cellars so I was intrigued by this quirk.
Soon, it was time to move on again, so I made my departure and turned right out of the pub to head up Wilne Lane, which leads to The Wharf with its pleasant views and myriad of listing buildings. Crossing a canal bridge at the end of the street saw me reach my next destination and, consequently, the following one as well, as they face each other across a small courtyard. The first of these, is the New Inn.
This canal side pub welcomes both children and dogs, serves food all day and is known to get busy in the summer months with both locals and visiting boaters. It being February and midweek, this is less of an issue for me on this day so the pub is relatively quiet with one or two small groups in for lunch. I pulled up a convenient bar stool and perused the offerings of the strange shaped bar which is almost shaped like a backwards Z with service to both sides. The pub is divided into 2 long rooms, which meet at one end but are separated at the other by a dividing wall and a corridor that houses the toilets. All of the 7 handpulls are occupied, leaving me a choice between Pedigree, Sharp's Doom Bar, Burton Bridge Stairway to Heaven, Navigation Tight Head, Camerons Northern Line Stout, Exmoor Gold and a real cider in the form of Weston's Rosie's Pig. I had longer to decide than I was expecting as the bar staff appeared to have gone AWOL but a barmaid finally emerged from the kitchen, where she informed me that she'd been eating chips, to take my order. I decided on the Exmoor Gold, which I've had previously, and it was very good indeed, with an excellent smooth finish.
I was pleased that my next location was nearby, a literal stone's throw across the aforementioned courtyard. Within a minute, if not less, I was at The Malt Shovel.
Dating from 1799, this hugely popular pub still retains its original beams and floors, making it a charming addition to any village. The internal layout is higgledy-piggledy with lots of smaller rooms off of the main one, at a variety of different levels. The pub started life as a malt house to the old brewery that is located behind it (the buildings remain), built by a wealthy farmer named Humphrey Moore. On one fateful day, a worker fell into a boiling vat at the malt house and died a horrible death. The traumatic events of his demise have seemingly caused him to remain at the building, as he has been seen on more than one occasion by ex-landlords and locals alike. His spirit is alleged to be most active in the cellars, particularly during any renovation work. There have been numerous instances of workers being pushed, nipped and poked by something unseen. The nearby canal also boasts a casualty of drink as a man once wandered into its waters and drowned whilst intoxicated. His body was not found until the following day and his ghost has been seen on the bank since. From spirits back to beer and the bar at the Malt Shovel. It accommodates 6 handpulls, 4 of which are in use on my visit, featuring Rosie's Pig, Hobgoblin and a doubled up Pedigree. I was expecting slightly more range if I'm honest but I suspect busier periods allow them to stock a greater variety of ales. Either way, the Hobgoblin was very well kept and this compensated more than enough.
I can imagine the Malt Shovel being rammed to the rafters on a summer evening and this would be no bad thing as it is a very pleasant place to sit and enjoy a delicious beer. A return trip may be in order I think! Leaving The Wharf, I ventured back down Wilne Lane, this time turning left at the end as I once again reached the main road through the village. My next stop was a little further on and back over the road. Upon reaching it, I passed the Old Salt Warehouse, site of a local antiques business as well as the murder of a one-legged beggar (whose ghost has been reported on the canal bank nearby) and reports of an eerie feeling and mild poltergeist activity. Sat almost opposite this is a hulking chunk of a premises known as The Clock Warehouse.
This converted mill was built in 1780 and physically straddles the Trent and Mersey Canal. As well as boasting a skittle alley with a private function room and an adjacent beer garden, the pub also benefits from the Shardlow Heritage Museum being situated in the grounds. Operated by Marston's the pub is truly enormous with an expansive interior over multiple levels and views out across the canal and the nearby fields. Having eventually located the toilets, which turned out to be on a separate floor a la Wetherspoons, I returned to the bar and perused the 5 handpulls, only 2 of which were operational. Given a choice between Pedigree and Hobgoblin, I opted for the former having just had the latter. This was as it should be and went down especially well with the burger that I felt I needed by this stage. I got the sense that the bar has more to offer during busier summer months but the staff are very friendly and welcoming and this massive place has a lot more to offer other than just its location and history.
Next up, I once again found myself crossing the road in order to reach the next location on my tour. Boasting a name perhaps unfamiliar in this part of the country, next in line was The Shakespeare Inn.
This is a traditional pub with two entrances inside the main door that take you to either the bar room or the lounge. The bar sits in the middle of these 2 areas although they are both connected at the rear of bar area. The décor is traditional and adorned with memorabilia and photos from the local area. The restaurant area, where I eventually chose to sit, doubles as a function room and the car park even allows motorhomes to stay overnight. The bar, which serves both areas of the pub, contains 5 handpulls, 2 of which are Pedigree but also featuring Courage Directors, draught Bass and Doom Bar. I decided that Doom Bar would sate my thirst and I was rewarded with as good a kept pint as you'll find anywhere. I spent the time it took to drink my pint admiring the cosy atmosphere of this quaint place.
I had one destination left for the day before my stroll back to the bus stop and my journey home and it was situated at almost the very end of the village. Believed to be the oldest surviving building in Shardlow, I had now reached the Dog & Duck.
This traditional styled pub restaurant is significantly larger on the inside that it appears from the front. The building extends backwards in an almost TARDIS-like fashion to accommodate a large drinking and dining area, a long well-stocked bar and lots of other smaller rooms for eating. There is a very large car park and a children's soft play area to satisfy the younger generation. This is another pub in the village that falls under the Marston's remit and whilst can affect the range of beers on offer it at least ensures that the pub stays open and, importantly, stays a pub. There are 8 handpulls on the bar and 7 of them are in use at the time of my visit. Pedigree appears 3 times with another 2 Help for Heroes charity ale and the final 2 Wychwood Dirty Tackle. I decided that it was only appropriate to end my day with a beer from the Wychwood stable and so opted for Dirty Tackle (4.4%). With aromas of caramel malt, apple and citrus and flavours of grapefruit, this gives way to sweet fruit and sweet malt on the finish. Not as dirty as it sounds then!
It had been an interesting day in Shardlow and time was getting on so it sadly became time for the inevitable return to normality by way of public transport. Whilst the pubs in Shardlow are covered by the extensive presence of Marston's there is clear indications that they are thriving. You only have to count the number of operational premises in what is a fairly small village, to realise that this can only be a good sign. In a climate where pubs, particularly village pubs, have been hard hit by increases in prices and rent and a decrease in trade, Shardlow and, it has to be said, a few more of my recent trips to perhaps less well-trodden areas have highlighted that it is not all doom and gloom. Villages like this with their friendly locals, interesting pubs and doses of local history make it all worthwhile. It's safe to say, that I left Shardlow on a high.
No comments:
Post a Comment