My timing was impeccable as the day of my trip coincided with the first proper day of Nottingham Trent University's Freshers Week. There didn't seem to be a massive number of students around at the time, which I put down to the fact that not all of them had arrived and those that had were asleep/hungover/confused or a combination of all 3. I had an easily accessible itinerary of pubs lined up for the day, all of which are in relatively close proximity to each other.
My journey began just across from where my bus stops on Market Square at a place where lots of students get their first introduction to Nottingham nightlife: Yates's.
A well known site in most cities across the UK, this particular branch of Yates's occupies the site where a drinking establishment first stood hundreds of years ago. The first recorded pub on this site was known as the Bull's Head. In 1590, it was owned by the Talbot family and its name was later changed to the Talbot, a name that can still be seen on the high external arch of the building. Talbot is also the name of a hunting hound which features on the coat of arms of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was then a significant land owner in the county. The overall layout is similar to that of the Talbot, originally opened by local tycoon Edward Cox, to the genuine alarm of the locals. The present building is the latest incarnation of a building which has been demolished, rebuilt and refurbished several times. It was originally bought by the Yates brothers in the 1920's and added to their portfolio of premises from other north. Over the years, the Yates's brand has become synonymous with being a trendy venue for younger drinkers. Inside, the pub is expansive with a downstairs and upstairs bar (open at weekends) and a high, skylit ceiling. Much of the emphasis is on food and standard draught drinks. The décor is functional with some unique touches including a wall covered entirely in small mirrors. The long bar is well stocked and also features 3 handpulls. 2 of these are in use on my visit offering Pedigree and Trooper. I immediately opted for a pint of Trooper and, when I was eventually served, it was excellent.
Following a leisurely time spent enjoying one of my favourite beers, I then moved onto my next destination, situated on Parliament Street. Another well-known student haunt, my next stop was the Blue Bell Inn.
Although primarily situated on Parliament Street, the Blue Bell has 2 entrances, the second of which is on Forman Street, opposite the Cornerhouse. Although on the same level, the front entrance is slightly narrower whilst the rear has an ornamental blue bell hanging above the windows. The Blue Bell is something of a student haven with 2 bars and a host of DJ nights throughout the week. The internal layout is divided into sections of different sizes and there is a snug-like alcove tucked away to one side. I haven't been here too many times in the past but, on my last visit I distinctly remembered there being ale. I was rewarded with the sight of 2 handpulls upon entering but my hopes were quickly dashed when it became clear that neither were being utilised. This was a disappointment but perhaps I'd caught them on a bad day. I was very nearly the only person in the pub at this stage so I hold out hope that the handpulls are used more during busy periods.
I knew my next location like the back of my hand. Situated on Goldsmith Street, directly on the tram route sits my former place of employment and one-time residence, The Horn In Hand.
Despite not having worked here for many years, I still frequent the Horn (as it's colloquially known) on a regular basis as I still know a few of the staff and regulars. I'm also privy to a fair bit of the history surrounding the place. In previous years the pub was known as the Spread Eagle and Fagin's before becoming an alternative/metal bar known as Speak Easy, an identity it had when I first worked there. It had previously been known as The Horn In Hand before this relocated to the larger premises next door (now Spanky's, more on which later) and then reverting back to the smaller premises it now occupies. Speak Easy sadly no longer exists, something which a lot of older drinkers still feel sad about. The pub is operated by Stonegate and was part of the recently disbanded Scream brand. The manager at the time of the reversion back to The Horn In Hand is now running The Phantom in Loughborough (see previous blog). A small flight of steps leads up to the entrance and it is decked out with student friendly décor with lots of seating including benches and sofas, lots of TVs and a smaller upstairs area that houses a pool table. The small, J-shaped bar boasts 3 handpulls which, in quiet periods such as during my visit, offers a single brew, a special edition rugby-themed beer called Ruck N Roll, courtesy of St. Austell Brewery. This is a 4% amber ale with a full, dry palate and a fruity hop balance. It is certainly a delicious beer and I was persuaded enough to have a couple of pints here whilst, as per usual, I reflected upon my time working here.
Although it isn't well documented, I have first hand experience of unexplained things happening in this building. When I first started working here, I heard rumours that members of staff had experienced strange things in the cellar area, including an unknown figure seen at the top of the cellar stairs. The cellar in particular has a strange feel about it, particularly late at night or early in the morning and I once heard a small child giggling behind me whilst collecting stock one evening. When locking up after a shift, myself and another member of staff, both alone and independently from each other, heard the sound of a groan or a cough from the area of the male toilets and the pub kitchen. Strange things also occurred in the staff accommodation above the pub, which I lived in for a while along with the aforementioned staff member. I distinctly heard my name being called from the office when I was the only person in the flat, another phenomenon that other staff have reported. The sound of a cat was often heard, before any such animal lived on the premises. Add to this to the fact that the motion sensors in the pub would randomly go off for no reason and that the pub has survived at least 3 fires (1 that was very serious) and I can testify that something strange was going on. The original building is listed and hundreds of years old so perhaps this is not a surprise.
Moving away from spirits of the human variety, it was now time to relocate myself once again. Luckily, my next stop was just next door at what is now known as Spanky van Dyke's.
Like its neighbour, this is another premises that has been through numerous lives in its long history. It first began life as a music hall and performance venue, something that is commemorated in the dome on the roof, harking back to its origins. Following this, it became an American-style diner before becoming Horn in Hand, before this relocated with the closing of Speak Easy. As part of this change over, the building became what it is now, billed as an 'eatery and funhouse' and operated by a coalition between Mitchells and Butler and Project Tokyo. The premises is part of a chain of similar premises in cities around the country and Spanky's has the added bonus of being the official Freshers Week HQ. Inside, the décor is quirky and arty with dimmed lighting and a mix of furniture. The pub hosts regular music and theme nights and, especially at weekends, is rather busy. The bar has 4 handpulls, during my visit featuring Old Rosie cider, Purity Ubu, Doom Bar and Hop Back Summer Lightning. I decided on a pint of the Ubu, which was very well kept. Of all of the premises visited so far on my trip, Spanky's had the strongest range of ale but this is largely due to it being busier more often outside of term time.
I had deliberately left the next pub until last as it is my favourite pub in Nottingham, largely due to the atmosphere, the style and its fantastic juke box. Around the corner, in Wollaton Street, I give you The Tap N Tumbler.
Essentially a resurrection of Speak Easy in all but name, the Tap is a long-established venue with a history of catering to the rock, metal and alternative scene in Nottingham. It has just celebrated 2 years since the refurb that has given it its current look and feel and is operated almost as a freehold, despite being owned by a large pub company. Inside, the bar is large and curved, featuring 4 handpulls. The walls are decorated with rock memorabilia and drawing, paintings and photos of famous rock stars. The food menu is rock themed and the ales (brewed by Nottingham brewery and rebranded in-house), have names like J'ale Break, Nine Inch Ale, Rebel Y'ale, you get the picture. The pub tends to be quiet on weekday daytimes and so the full range of ale is not normally available until weekends. Indeed, during my visit, only Greene King IPA is available but this is well kept and delicious. The pub also normally features Trooper as a guest ale. I spent my time here enjoying my beer and participating in an obligatory juke box raid as well going back over the day's activities.
The student pub scene in Nottingham is certainly thriving, even though real ale often doesn't get much of a look in. The ones that do it tend to do it well and successfully. The ones that don't are probably responding to trade trends based on their normal circumstances. What has become clear is that it would be unlikely that you would have found ale in this many student pubs a years ago, and also that, whatever your background and whatever your tastes, Nottingham still has much to offer each new influx of students without alienating those who have been in the game for a lot longer. Why do you think I've never gone home?
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