Wednesday, August 14, 2013

A Visit to the Villages

This week I found myself in the unusual position of being solo, with Matt being otherwise engaged. My plan for this trip regardless was to visit a few of the border villages of Nottinghamshire, specifically Trowell, Cossall and Awsworth, to see what they had to offer with regards to an ale scene. This wold require hopping on and off of buses with the aid of an all-day ticket and significantly exercising my legs. Thankfully the day I had chosen promised to be a fine and dry one so off I ventured, wondering what the day had ahead. I made my way to Victoria Bus Station and got on the Rainbow 2, knowing that for £5, a Zig-Zag ticket would allow me to travel across Trent Barton land all day completely unlimited. 

I have to confess that I cheated slightly with my first location, as it is technically in Wollaton but got accidentally missed out when I carried out my tour of that particular area a few months back. As it was on the way to where I was headed, I thought the time was right for a visit. Situated on Trowell Road, next to a Co-op store and petrol station is Middleton's.

Named after the well-known local family that built, owned and lived in Wollaton Hall, Middleton's is a gastro pub/restaurant combo with a paved car park and outdoor decking/smoking area to the front and an interior that is split in two by the styles of seating. One side is more bar-like with high tables and benches whilst the other, which I took to be the restaurant area consisted of leather booths and plush seating. The pub has a strong reputation locally for putting on live music and also contains two pool tables and a dart board. The large, rectangular central bar is well-stocked for both spirits and lager and also includes 7 hand pumps split around the length. Of these, 4 are being used when I visit and they feature an interesting variety of brews, in this case Old Speckled Hen, Lion from Hook Norton Brewery and the Iron Maiden brewed Trooper, created by the band in conjunction with Robinson's Brewery. Mann's Chestnut Mild is also available on a smooth flow pump. Although it was only just past lunchtime, I was intrigued by Trooper and opted for a pint to open the day's proceedings. At 4.8%, it is a golden bronze in colour with a tight, creamy head, a slight hoppy aroma and a taste of malt with soft fruit undertones. It was certainly an excellent pint to start this excursion with and the pub was worth a visit for its pleasant atmosphere.

Finishing my pint in time to make the next bus, I crossed back over the road to the handy bus stop and continued my trip to the village of Trowell, between Wollaton and Ilkeston. Located on the border of Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire, Trowell is believed to be Saxon in origin, with four manors, a church and a population of 50 people by 1066. Coal was extracted nearby from the 13th century until 1928. The A609 is the main road through the village and the M1 and A6007 from Stapleford also pass nearby, with most of the village lying between the River Derwent and the Erewash Canal. The nearby Broxtowe Nature Reserve contains an original lock keeper's cottage and a Grade II listed bridge built in 1794-96. The only pub in the village is The Festival Inn, which was my next stop of the afternoon.
 
The pub is now operated by Spirit Pub Co. and includes a brick exterior and a stylish, old-fashioned interior with floral carpets and sofa cushions as well as a pair of stained glass skylights. The pub is divided into a lounge/bar and a pool room separated by a partition wall. The main bar contains lots of low, wooden tables and a small raised area that includes an antique fireplace. The lighting is soft and minimalist and there are many traditional features. The bar sits in the corner of the room and serves both areas of the pub. There are 3 hand pulls on the bar and, although only one of these is in use, the other 2 are in the process of being cleaned. The remaining pump contains Bombardier and this is in very good condition and lives up to the pub's Cask Marque accreditation standard. I spent the time here enjoying both my pint and the pleasing aesthetics of the pub whilst watching some of Australia's 2nd innings in the 4th Test. Shortly after this, it was back onto the bus again, this time getting off in Ilkeston and walking down Awsworth Road towards the hamlet of Cossall, which lies between Trowell and Ilkeston with Awsworth just down the road. Cossall is located approximately 1 mile east of Ilkeston and, according to the 2001 census, has a population of around 620. To the of the hamlet is a large hill or slag heap, produced from tons of waste extracted from the local coal mines. I'd been through Cossall a few times in the past but, on this occasion, discovered it was at least twice as big as I realised with some large houses along a main street, looking considerably newer than the more picturesque Church Lane area nearby. My destination was intended to be The Gardeners Inn, a Greene King pub and the only one in the hamlet proper. After a significant walk in the increasing heat, I finally reached it with hopes of quenching my thirst only to see a sight that strikes fear into the heart of any hardened pub-goer: a sign declaring Closed Until Further Notice! With no clear explanation and no sign of anyone nearby, I decided that the best plan was to head to my next destination, which meant crossing the village boundary into neighbouring Awsworth.

Awsworth lies roughly between Ilkeston and Kimberley and has been a civil parish since 1894. The most notable landmark of the area is the parish church of St. Peter, which consists of a remaining chancel of a brick church from of 1746 and a nave which was rebuilt in 1902-03 in the Gothic style. I had heard good things and had high hopes about the next stop on the tour. Situated on Main Street, next to a small industrial estate and car mechanics, is The Gate Inn.
 
This 3 storey brick building is distinguished to be awarded the title of Locale Pub of the year, an award it should have just received at the time of writing! It's certainly deserved. The pub was struggling around 3 years ago, until it was successfully taken over by the current landlords and they have never looked back since. The pub is roughly square in layout with the bar at the centre, and very traditional in its internal appearance, with lots of olde worlde features and traditional photos of the local area. The bar has 7 hand pumps, all from local breweries. On offer at the time of my visit are Oakham Ales Oaple; Burton Bridge XL Bitter; Full Mash Nevermore; Nutbrook More; Blue Monkey BG Sips; Belvoir Brewery Whippling and Dancing Duck Ay Up. After a few slightly overwhlemed seconds of decision making, I eventually went for the Nevermore from Full Mash. This is a very dark mild with a strength of 4.6%, an aroma of biscuit and roasted malt with a chocolaty flavour and a smooth, creamy finish. Following my disappointment at The Gardeners Inn being closed, I felt that it would be rude not to have a second pint! This time around, I ordered the Whippling (3.6%). This golden ale had a fruity aroma, nicely balanced with a citrusy taste and a zesty finish. As sad as I was to leave The Gate, it was time to move on. I had one last destination on my list and then I had to attempt to find the right bus stop to get me back to Nottingham. I would heartily and completely recommend The Gate to anyone with a passion for real ale from local breweries as this is one pub that is quietly and brilliantly going about its business and they thoroughly deserve their award. Congratulations to them!

Further down Main Street and tucked away off the beaten track and down a country lane next to a major road sits the Hog's Head Hotel.
 
This former coaching inn underwent a substantial refurb in the early 70s but still retains its old features and traditional interiors including exposed beams, traditional brickwork and a real hogshead barrel built into part of the bar. The seating is traditional and one side of the bar includes a large  number of tankards and jugs hanging from hooks on the ceiling. The internal appearance is one of considerable age but also has a unique beauty about and a number of modern aspects that don't detract from the overall effect. There are 3 hand pumps and also Hardy's Dark and Hardy's Cool on smooth flow taps. Only one of the ale pumps is available but this features Old Speckled Hen exactly as it should be. As I sat and enjoyed my pint and let the minutes wander, I took the opportunity to peruse the food menu and it sounds excellent and certainly a place worth revisiting for food alone. I spent longer here than I initially intended, such was the relaxed atmosphere of the place. When I eventually made my way out, I had a wander towards where I thought the bus stops for home where, somewhere in the vicinity of the nearby IKEA island. After a brief period of losing my bearings in a labyrinthine and mildly ominous housing estate and some confusion as to which side of the roundabout I'd come out on, I finally climbed onto the Rainbow 1 and headed home via a circuitous route through Kimberley and Nuthall. 

Despite the fact that I completed this trip by myself and that one of the intended stops was closed for whatever reason, I can honestly say that I found the day educational, with the ale on offer being both what I expected as well as pleasantly surprising. The Gate was definitely the highlight and I would urge everyone to get down there if they can. After refuelling with Burger King on the way, I arrived home tired, tipsy and satisfied after what I feel was a thoroughly productive day. As much as I'm not always visiting places that have a good reputation for ale or even in general, there is something about the mystery of the journey that is just as fun.



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