Browsing in Bridgford

Following on from last month's visit to Gloucester, which proved to be logistically and financially draining, and with May itself having already been a busy month, I opted for something considerably closer to home and easier to organise for my most recent trip. I decided it was finally time to revisit an area of Nottingham that I hadn't been to in quite some time, 10 years to be precise, and see whether things were still as they had been or whether things had changed significantly, either for better or for worse. The location in question is West Bridgford. Before I set out, I already knew that the vast majority of pubs on the day's itinerary had featured in my previous visit though, happily, there would be one or two new entries too. For those unfamiliar with the geography and those that haven't read the blog from my previous visit, or simply need a refresher (I don't blame you), a quick reminder of where West Bridgford actually is. West Bridgford is located south of the River Trent, with the river itself acting as an unofficial demarcation between it and Nottingham City. Whilst technically a suburb, West Bridgford acts as its own independent entity, existing within a different council ward and a different borough entirely. The area itself has a reputation of being more upmarket and noticeably 'posher' than the surrounding areas, something that is a source of pride amongst residents and reflected in things like house prices. Whether this would also be seen in the price of pints was something I would be investigating throughout the day. I already suspected the establishments I was planning on visiting would be reflective of the local clientele but I was eager to see whether West Bridgford was deserving of being recognised for its beer.

It's very rare that I'm able to write up a report of a trip so soon after it's happened but, as I've been blessed with a few consecutive days off work, you find me in the position of updating this page the day immediately after my trip out. At least it should help if things are a bit fresher in the memory. Yesterday's weather was unsettled with frequent showers, although it was relatively mild. To add an extra level of difficulty, week-long roadworks have begun on the main bus route that I would normally have used to get to West Bridgford. Instead, I got my normal bus from Clifton and disembarked in the Meadows. From there it's a few minutes walk along London Road and over Trent Bridge. My trip would begin in close proximity to one of Nottingham's iconic landmarks. Adjacent to the famous bridge and a mere stone's throw from the river itself, is Waterside Bar & Kitchen.

If you're a long time reader and you're having deja vu, don't worry. You have indeed seen this building before but in a much different guise. Waterside occupies what was once Southbank Bar. Not only did it feature in a very early entry here but I also worked here for a few months whilst it was under its previous ownership. Things have changed a lot in the intervening years, in rather a lot of ways! The building which houses Waterside was originally part of the Bridgford Hotel, built in 1968. The former hotel building still stands and is now luxury apartments, after a long period spent as offices. Waterside was formerly owned by Great Northern Group, who carried out a massive refurbishment of the former Southbank bar in early 2020, resulting in the current layout. Internally, the building could not look more different than its previous incarnation. Gone is the enormous central island bar, replaced by a bar along one side, in an area that previously housed booths with in-built TVs. The area directly opposite the bar houses high tables and stools. A central free-standing partition divides this from the other side of the room, which features long benches and horseshoe-shaped booths. A raised area to the front features a pool table and further seating. Around half a dozen large TVs can be found on the walls, a far cry from the more than 30 that were present before. The toilets are located in the back left corner of the room, completely relocated from the opposite end, where they have been replaced by a larger kitchen with a service window. Outside is a large, decked beer garden, open to the elements, and a refurbished conservatory featuring fake greenery and lots of windows. All-in-all, it's a majorly different building from when I worked here, although the overall footprint has remained mostly unchanged. Waterside is now owned by troubled company Red Cat Leisure though, given their financial predicament, how long that will be the case is unclear. I was excited to be out, despite the unsettled conditions, and eager to dive into West Bridgford for the first time in a decade. On the bar here, there are 4 handpulls. However, none of these were in use when I arrived. One of them did have a pump clip on but this was turned around, indicating that whatever ale there was was unavailable. Luckily, there are a range of craft keg beers available, mostly from Brixton Brewery, on a keg wall behind the bar. Miffed that real ale was not present, but determined not to let it bother me, I opted for a half of Low Voltage, priced at £2.80, and retreated to a high table, not far from the entrance and next to a fruit machine. It felt a bit surreal to be back in a place that I had worked and to see it virtually unrecognisable from my time. Don't get me wrong though, it's not a bad change. The decor and lighting are bright and modern and the atmosphere, at least on a non-match day, is calm and welcoming. Whether the place is still packed to the rafters during Forest games, especially now that it's not really a sports bar, is a question for another day. The beer wasn't too bad for what it was. It's a sessionable, hoppy pale ale that did at least quench my thirst.

Despite the beer choice not being entirely what I was hoping for, I was confident that my day would be a success from this point forward. Leaving Waterside, I turned left. Crossing over at the nearby traffic lights, I took another left and continued down Radcliffe Road, along the outer wall of the iconic Trent Bridge Cricket Ground, once again the venue for this year's beer festival in October, and the scene of many Aussie batterings. Reaching Fox Road on my right, I turned down it and soon found myself at the second pub of the day: Larwood & Voce.

Whilst resembling a cricket pavilion, the Larwood & Voce is a pub and kitchen that opened in 1985 as part of the development of the new stand at the cricket ground. It is named after Harold Larwood and Bill Voce who were Nottinghamshire's fast bowling attack from 1929-1939. They were asked to develop 'bodyline' bowling during Test Matches against Australia in 1932-33. Inside, the layout is open plan but there are two distinct areas. To the left is a carpeted area, laid out for diners. To the right is a much more casual space, with wooden flooring. There are two raised areas in both sections which can be used for larger groups or parties. Toilets are located in a corridor to the right. The decor is contemporary and minimalist, with cricketing references throughout. The pub is owned by Moleface Pub Company, who also operate The Wollaton in Wollaton. This is reflected in the similarities between the two pubs respective aesthetic. The bar here is at the back of the room and serves both areas, with a partition wall in between the sections. The beer choice is much more in keeping with my kind of thing. 5 handpumps sit proudly on the bar. 4 of these were in use whilst I was there, with a choice between Nottingham Trentsman, Nottingham Citra, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Castle Rock Harvest Pale. I was intrigued by the Nottingham Brewery options as I've only ever previously tried their core range, so I decided on a half of the Citra (£2.60) and found a table in the raised section to the right. I had noticed a large group on their lunch break in the section next to me, one of which happened to be a friend of mine with his colleagues from Trent Bridge. That was a nice and unexpected surprise! Back to the beer though. Citra (4.2%) is Nottingham Brewery's own take on the iconic pale ale. The use of Citra as a dry hop has added aroma and grapefruit flavours. It's zesty and tangy and also carries the trademark 'bite' that I've noticed in Nottingham Brewery's beers. It really is a very well put together beer and I thoroughly enjoyed it. 

Bidding farewell to Larwood & Voce, and my mate Simon, I headed out the way I had entered but this time turned right, following the road round until it becomes Hound Road. I followed this to the end and then turned left. I was now on Bridgford Road, the central thoroughfare that runs along into the main shopping area. My next destination was to be found shortly before this though. Crossing over at a nearby pedestrian crossing, I made my way to the adjacent Stratford Road and the Stratford Haven.

The first of two Castle Rock pubs in my sights for the day, the Stratford Haven recently celebrated its 25th birthday. Previously a pet shop, it was renovated in a classic style and has become a go-to beer destination in West Bridgford, reflected by its inclusion in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. The name is a play on words of both its destination on Stratford Road and of its reputation as a 'haven' for excellent beer, as well as being a rather excellent pun with nods to the Bard. The interior is composed of linked areas around a large, wooden bar. To the left is the larger public space, with high tables and stools directly opposite the bar and an open area of sofas and banquette seating to the rear, where the toilets can also be found. To the right, is a smaller, but no less cosy, lounge with scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. A large courtyard beer garden can be found to the rear, and also includes sheltered seating for inclement days like the one on which I visited. Even though I'm a Castle Rock employee, I'd only ever been to the Strat a couple of times and both of those were before I worked for the company. This seemed like a terrible crime for which I was eager to repent. I was very much looking forward to experiencing the pub again. A whopping 14 handpulls occupy the bar here with the offering primarily from Castle Rock, although guest beers also get space. The options on the day featured 8 Castle Rock beers namely Harvest Pale (doubled up), Preservation (doubled up), Elsie Mo (doubled up), Screech Owl, Our House, Oatmeal Stout, Hyperfocus and Sunshine After the Rain. Accompanying these were guest beers in the form of Dark Star Hophead, Batemans XB and Oakham Citra. As tempted as I was by the guest beers, I'd yet to try the latest Castle Rock special Sunshine After the Rain, so this one got the nod. One of the many advantages of working for Castle Rock is that I get a team member discount in all venues so that would come in very handy here. I had opted for a pint of this particular beverage. Normally retailing at £4.60, my cheeky discount allowed me to purchase it for the price of £3.45. Excellent! I moved to a high table a short distance from the bar and took my time to enjoy the beer and my surroundings. Sunshine After the Rain proved to be a winner. A 4.2% pale ale, this is a showcase of New Zealand hops, specifically Nelson Sauvin and Motueka. The end result gives white wine and gooseberry flavours, citrus aromas and a hint of Sauvignon Blanc. It's a cracking beer and certainly best enjoyed in such a comfortable place as this. During my time here, I got my first glimpses into the snobbishness I'd heard was prevalent in West Bridgford. I got some decidedly disapproving looks from a group of older women when I went to the toilet. I put that down to the fact that I was wearing a Download t shirt. I then overheard the couple on the table next to me muttering amongst themselves about the logic behind the pub kitchen not being open on a Tuesday. But, seeing as they couldn't agree on how many days there are in the month of May, I'm not sure their opinion counts for much. Before too long, my beer glass was empty and it was time to move on. I was glad I'd finally been able to appreciate the Strat properly. It had been worth the wait.

My next stop would be a location that was new to me and, therefore, new to these pages. Leaving the Strat, I turned right and continued down Stratford Road until I reached Highfield Road. A short distance further on, I reached Glebe Road where I again turned right. This brought me out on Melton Road, with my next destination almost opposite. Next up, The Refinery.

This large, open plan cafe bar opened in 2019 and is owned and operated by Great Northern Group. The modern interior is loosely divided into a number of smaller sections. To the front is an area of tables and chairs for cafe-style dining. Beyond this is a larger, more restaurant-style space. A row of high tables with bench seating are located along one wall with the bar positioned against the wall beyond these. Subtle lighting and bright fixtures are the main features of the interior with semi-partitions set up to separate each area. The kitchen is located along a corridor to the rear, where toilet access can also be found. The drinks menu here is primarily focused on wine and cocktails with food options including tapas style dishes and larger meals. Happily, there is a single handpump on the bar. At the time of my visit, this was pouring Black Iris Snake Eyes. Wonderful! Following a brief chat with the gentleman behind the bar, whose name I've since remembered is Tristan, who I knew from my time working for the same company, I took my half (£2.35) to one of the aforementioned high tables, adjacent to the main entrance. The Snake Eyes was delicious. Whilst it's not one of my favourites from the Black Iris portfolio, when served correctly, it's very good and that was certainly the case here. The Refinery is a relaxing place for a chilled afternoon drink, as long as you can tune out the mums in leggings and the old people complaining that the background music is too loud (it wasn't). 

I would be retracing my steps slightly now and heading back towards the centre of West Bridgford. To get to my next destination, I left the Refinery, turned right, crossed back over the road and took a left down Clumber Road. Following this to the end brought me to Exchange Road. Turning left, I carried on for a few more yards, until I encountered an alleyway between two houses. Traversing this brought me out onto Gordon Square and right in front of the Test Match.

This imposing building is an architectural gem. Grade II* listed, the Test Match Hotel was built in 1938 by A. C. Wheeler for Hardy's & Hanson's. This was the first public house to be licensed in West Bridgford in the twentieth century and was built at great expense in the Art Deco style. The 1930s plan and accompanying fittings have survived virtually intact which is a very rare thing. The Test Match was listed as an Asset of Community Value by the local CAMRA branch in 2016 and is recognised as having a nationally important historic interior. The interior here really is something to behold. The entrance to this pub is unique in that access is gained through a revolving door (yes, really!), which leads through into a two-storey lounge with ash panelling. The high vaulted ceilings resemble those of an old cinema. Two large wall paintings, by local artist T. L. B. Hutchinson, are of a cricketing persuasion and the pub's name comes from the proximity of the cricket ground. To the right as you enter is what was once a gents-only smoke room but is now an area of additional seating. A staircase in the lounge leads up to the Boundary Bar, a former cocktail lounge, which houses a semi-circular bar. This was linked to a former assembly room during a sensitive refurbishment in 2001. Beyond the lounge, is the large public bar which features a terrazzo floor, tiered counter and slate fireplaces. A corridor off of this leads to an additional side room, with yet more seating, as well as the toilets and an additional side entrance. The bar counter runs along the majority of one wall and features 6 handpulls on the bar, a welcome sight indeed! I'd been to the Test Match during my previous survey of West Bridgford but I'd forgotten how impressive a building it is. Now operated by Greene King, it's certainly worth a visit for the architecture and visuals alone. Along with the The Vale in Daybrook, it's an excellently preserved example of an Art Deco pub in the local area. The beer choice was better than I'd expected with a couple of guest beers accompanying some more standard choices from the Greene King stable. Alongside Greene King IPA and Abbot and Hardy's & Hanson's Olde Trip, Nottingham EPA, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Abbeydale Moonshine (!) were present. Anyone who knows me, or who has been following this page for some time, will know that Moonshine is my absolute favourite cask beer ever. It really was a no-brainer when I saw it here. Having parted with £2.55 for a half, I made my way over to a round table in the lounge, where best to peruse my magnificent surroundings. Whilst most purists might balk at me waxing lyrical about a Greene King pub, there's really no denying how superb it is to see an original building still thriving virtually untouched. I enjoyed my Moonshine which, thankfully, was well kept and listened to a very odd quiz that appeared to be taking place in the adjacent side room. The room had been curtained off so I have no idea how many people were taking part, or what it was in aid of, but I can tell you that the first two rounds were about canals and fashion respectively. I'm curious to know what the remaining rounds consisted of!

Half pint supped and more pubs to go, I took my leave of the Test Match and headed down Gordon Road. One fortifying trip to Greggs later and I was on my way again, this time headed down Albert Road. Following a brief detour through the park, I turned right onto Mabel Grove. I followed this to the end, crossing a stream along the way and then took another right, this time onto Rutland Road. I then took the next left onto Pierrepont Road where a handy sign pointed me towards my next destination: the Poppy & Pint.

The second of the duo of Castle Rock pubs for the day, and also Good Beer Guide 2024 listed, the Poppy & Pint opened in 2011 after the successful conversion of a former British Legion Club. A nod to its former identity has been retained in the name of the pub. The interior is large, with wooden furniture throughout and a large bar running along one side. There is a raised area of additional seating opposite the bar, a family area to one side and further seating, along with a more formal dining area at the other end. A large function room can be found upstairs and this regularly caters for local events, including a folk club. Outside, there is a beer garden that overlooks nearby tennis courts and a bowling green. As with all Castle Rock pubs, dogs are welcome but, in this case, they are not permitted in the restaurant area. I'd forgotten how large the Poppy is but, as with the Strat, I was glad I'd made the effort of a return trip, even if it has taken me over a decade. As expected, Castle Rock beers are centre stage but, again, guest beers can be found here too. 12 handpulls feature on the bar here. At the time of my visit, 9 of these were in use with a couple of others in various stages of being swapped over between products. For my delectation and delight, I had a choice between the following Castle Rock beers: Screech Owl, Elsie Mo, Preservation, Harvest Pale, Our House and Moonage. The additional guest beers were Little Loop, North Riding Rum & Raisin Dark Mild and Shiny Disco Balls. I was briefly drawn towards the mild but I'm still not sure whether it's a style I enjoy. I've had some good ones in the past but there are others that haven't been great so, on this occasion, I erred on the side of caution and went for the Shiny Disco Balls (5.3%). This was priced at £5.20 for a pint but I again utilised my team discount and got it for £3.90 instead. Disco Balls is a big hitting IPA brewed with American hops and it ticked a lot of boxes. Citrusy, fruity and hazy with a proper tropical punch to it. It's also certified gluten free as well, for those who need to know. I took my beer to a the raised area and looked out over the bar area, people and dog watching. The Poppy & Pint is another cracking pub that certainly has its place amongst the local community. Converting such a building to a pub not only continues to foster a sense of community but also means that there is another great place to while away a few minutes, or hours, or days, and watch the world go by. The food here looks amazing too! 

I had two more venues to visit before my trip was at an end and these were also located conveniently close by. Having left the Poppy, I returned to Pierrepont Road and turned right. Continuing on until I reached the end, I turned left, having now reached Trent Boulevard where my penultimate stop of the day is located. A short distance away, on my right and tucked slightly back from the road, is the Lady Bay.

Formerly a Kimberley's tied house, the Lady Bay is now owned and operated by Greene King as one of their 'Local' chain. Set back from the main road, it boasts a large car park and beer garden to the front, as well as picnic tables and a children's play area nearby. Inside, the layout is large and open plan. The front room is carpeted and contains the bar, as well as wooden tables and chairs at different heights. A raised area to one side features a TV and additional seating. To the rear, up a small flight of steps, is an L-shaped area with pool tables, dartboards and additional screens. Small alcoves throughout break up the overall layout. The wooden bar features a bank of 5 handpulls. Three of these feature ale, with the other two reserved for ciders. On this occasion, the beer choices were Greene King IPA and Greene King Abbot, alongside Abbeydale Moonshine again, with Lilley's Gladiator and Lilley's Tropical taking up the remaining two pumps. Seeing Moonshine in two separate pubs on the same day was a stroke of luck but I wasn't planning on having it again. I try to have a different beer in each pub I visit on a trip wherever possible so at this stage I opted for the Abbot instead (£2.55 a half). I took this to a high, round table to one side. I had vague memories of coming to the Lady Bay once before, prior to a football match but it didn't look anything like I remembered it. I do have a recollection of sitting outside though so perhaps that's where the confusion stems from. Either way, I doubted very much that I'd be coming back again. The service was fine and the pub itself isn't bad but the beer wasn't great. I managed to finish it but it was clearly off. I noticed as I was leaving that the pump clip had been turned round so it was obviously the end of the barrel. Hopefully that's the only reason why. I was at least grateful that Moonshine hadn't been ruined for me. It's easy to see this place being absolutely heaving on a match day but it was much more subdued on a wet Tuesday afternoon. The gloomy weather got me pondering a story I'd heard about this place having had a ghost. Allegedly, many years ago, there were stories of a mysterious cloaked figure said to manifest and glide across the car park. The sightings would only happen at night but haven't been reported for quite some time now. Whether this anonymous figure had any connection to the pub light switches randomly being tampered with, or whether these are two mysterious yet disparate pieces of phenomena, will likely never be known. 

I had one stop left before my day was done and my final destination wouldn't be too far from where my adventure had begun, completing a roughly circular route. Continuing down Trent Boulevard, I crossed at a nearby junction with Radcliffe Road. I would now carry on down Radcliffe Road to where my last stop is located, opposite the side of the cricket ground. My day would come to a close at The William Gunn.

The newest addition to West Bridgford's drinking scene opened in August 2022 after previously being an Indian restaurant and, before that, an Italian wine bar. Now owned by Great Northern Group, this smart, single roomed bar is named after William 'Billy' Gunn (1858-1921), a Nottingham born sportsman who played cricket at both county and international level and played football for both Nottingham Forest and Notts County, representing England on two occasions. He became President of Notts County in 1920 and died the following year, in the Standard Hill area of Nottingham, at the age of 63. Inside, the bar is decorated in a contemporary style with modern, bespoke lighting, wooden tables and benches and cricket memorabilia throughout. The exterior colour scheme of dark green is partly repeated inside, along with Victorian-style tiling on the internal pillars. A beer garden to the front features benches and a mix of paving and turf. The bar sits over to one side with a rear corridor, down a ramp, that leads to the toilets. A couple of TVs are mounted on the wall, usually showing sport. A pair of handpulls sit on the bar. For my final beer of the trip (not of the day mind you), I had a choice between Nottingham Sunshine (ironically) or Fuller's London Pride. Having already partaken of some of Nottingham Brewery's beer earlier in the day, I swung for the Pride (£2.60 a half) and retreated to a high table near the window. My last stop of the day is often a place of reflection on the day's achievements before I use the journey home to contemplate my conclusions. The reflection was certainly aided by a very nice drop of London Pride. This was my first visit to the William Gunn but it may well not be my last as it's a very welcome addition to the area.

Before long, I found myself with an empty glass and a sense of accomplishment. It was time to head home. Luckily, the closest bus stop is only around the corner so it wasn't long before I was on my way. I had thoroughly enjoyed my long overdue revisit to West Bridgford. I thought about the initial question I had in my head when I had first set out earlier in the day: Had the area changed much and, if so, how? I now feel that I have my answer. By and large, West Bridgford hasn't changed an enormous amount. The good venues are still going strong and still remain must-visit destinations. The new kids on the block have slotted themselves nicely into the scene and found themselves a niche that they have clearly grown into. If you can look past the snobbery and the snootiness of some of the residents, there's much to be discovered in this area of Nottingham. It certainly has a pub scene that makes for an excellent day out and it's highly likely I'd do the whole thing again. I doubt it will take me ten years to get around to it again next time though.     

Pub of the day: Stratford Haven. Cracking pub, excellent beer, worthy of its reputation.

Beer of the day: Castle Rock: Sunshine After the Rain. Bloody delicious. I'm not being biased, honest!

Biggest surprise: Test Match. I'd forgotten how incredible the building is and I was surprised how much I enjoyed being there.

A Gazetteer of Gloucester

Spring is finally here! The days are longer, the evenings are lighter and the weather is, allegedly, warmer and more settled than it has been after the gloomy days of winter. With that in mind, I was able to get and about last week. Forgive my absence last month. March ended up being a busy and expensive one but things should hopefully be back to a greater sense of regularity going forwards. Famous last words. Anyway, last week, I took it upon myself to make the journey over into Gloucestershire for what would be this particular county's first appearance in the blog (I think!). My aim was simple: investigate the city of Gloucester in search of its best pubs and, in general, acquaint myself with a place that I've heard mixed things about in the past. What followed would confirm some suspicions but also surprise me in pleasant and unexpected ways. But first, the history bit. 

Gloucester  is a cathedral city and the county town of Gloucestershire in the South West of England. Gloucester lies on the River Severn, between the Cotswolds to the east and the Forest of Dean to the west; it is sited 19 miles (31 km) east of Monmouth and 17 miles (27 km) east of the border with Wales. Gloucester has a population of around 132,000, including suburban areas. It is a port, linked via the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal to the Severn Estuary.

Gloucester was founded by the Romans and became an important city and colony in AD 97, under Emperor Nerva as Colonia Glevum Nervensis.

It was granted its first charter in 1155 by Henry II. In 1216, Henry III, aged only nine years, was crowned with a gilded iron ring in the Chapter House of Gloucester Cathedral. Gloucester's significance in the Middle Ages is underlined by the fact that it had a number of monastic establishments, including St Peter's Abbey, founded in 679 (later Gloucester Cathedral); the nearby St Oswald's Priory, founded in the 880s or 890s; and Llanthony Secunda Priory, founded in 1136. The town is also the site of the siege of Gloucester in 1643, during which the city held out against Royalist forces in the First English Civil War.

A major attraction of the city is Gloucester Cathedral, which is the burial place of King Edward II and Walter de Lacy; it features in scenes from the Harry Potter films. Other features of interest include the museum and school of art and science, the former county jail (on the site of a Saxon and Norman castle), the Shire Hall (now headquarters of the County Council) and the Whitefield memorial church. A park in the south of the city contains a spa, a chalybeate spring having been discovered in 1814.

Economically, the city is dominated by the service industries and has strong financial, research, distribution and light industrial sectors. Historically, it was prominent in the aerospace industry.

In 1926, the Gloucestershire Aircraft Company at Brockworth changed its name to the Gloster Aircraft Company because international customers claimed that the name Gloucestershire was too difficult to spell. A sculpture in the city centre celebrates Gloucester's aviation history and its involvement in the jet engine.

From the city's Roman name, Glevum, Anglo-Saxon migrants after 410, with their fledgling feudal structure, the Kingdom of Wessex, replaced the area's Romano-Celtic society and changed the city's name to Caerloyw, Gloucester's name in modern Welsh, while recognising the presence of the Roman fort. Caerloyw is a compound of caer, meaning 'fort, stronghold, castle', and loyw, a lenition of gloyw as it would have been pronounced by many speakers, meaning 'bright, shiny, glowy'.

A variant of the term -cester/chester/caster instead of the Welsh caer was eventually adopted. The name Gloucester thus means roughly "bright fort". Mediaeval orthographies include Caer Glow, Gleawecastre and Gleucestre.

Glevum was established around AD 48 at an important crossing of the River Severn and near to the Fosse Way, the early front line after the Roman invasion of Britain. Initially, a Roman fort was established at present-day Kingsholm. Twenty years later, a larger legionary fortress was built on slightly higher ground nearby, centred on present-day Gloucester Cross, and a civilian settlement grew around it. Probably the Roman Legion XX Valeria Victrix was based here until 66 and then Legio II Augusta as they prepared to invade Roman Wales between 66 and 74 AD, who stayed later until around 87.

Gloucester became a Colonia in 97 as Colonia Nervia Glevensium, or Glevum, in the reign of Nerva. It is likely that Glevum became the provincial capital of Britannia Prima.

Within about 15 years new privately constructed properties replaced the earlier barracks and public buildings, temples and bath houses were under construction in stone. Piped water began to be supplied. Drains and sewers were laid. On the site of the legionary principia an imposing central forum was laid out surrounded by colonnades and flanked on three sides by part-timbered ranges of shops. Closing off the south of the forum was the 100m x 40m Basilica. Many fine homes with mosaic floors were built in the town.

At its height, Glevum may have had a population of as many as 10,000 people. The entire area around Glevum was intensely Romanised in the second and third centuries with a higher than normal distribution of villas.

At the end of the 3rd century or the start of the 4th, major changes were made to the city's 2nd century wall. It was replaced in two stages by a stronger and higher one of stone resting on massive reused stone blocks. In the second stage, the blocks rested on deep timber foundation piles. Stone external towers were added; two parallel wide ditches were also cut in front of the new walls.

Remains of the Roman city can still be seen:

• Many archaeological artifacts and some in-situ walls in the Gloucester City Museum & Art Gallery
• The remains of the Roman and mediaeval East Gate in the East Gate Chamber on Eastgate Street.
• Northgate, Southgate, Eastgate and Westgate Streets all follow the line of their original Roman counterparts, although Westgate Street has moved slightly north and Southgate Street now extends through the site of the Roman basilica.

Withdrawal of all Roman forces and many societal leaders in about the year 410 may have allowed leading families of the Dobunni tribe to regain power within the now Roman-influenced, interconnected and intermixed Celtic Brythonic local people. This intermix is reflected by the fact a large minority of basic words and available synonyms in Welsh have a Latin base. In the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle Gloucester is shown as part of Wessex from the Battle of Deorham in 577. At some point afterwards, along with the rest of its shire excluding the Forest of Dean, Gloucester was part of the minor kingdom of the Hwicce. In 628, as a result of the Battle of Cirencester, that kingdom became a client or sub-kingdom of Mercia. From about 780, the Hwicce was no longer feigning any pretense as a kingdom and became part of Mercia. Mercia, allied by matrimony and sharing a desire to counter the Danish onslaught as had conquered swathes of the wider island at large, submitted to Alfred the Great's Kingdom of Wessex in about 877–883. A 20th century writer intuitively adds that Roman stem Gleu- Glev- was, doubtless, pronounced without any final consonant. Claudia Castra is mentioned in the 18th century as a possible Latin name related to the city.

The first bridging point on a navigable, defensive barrier, great river and the foundation in 681 of the abbey of St Peter by Æthelred of Mercia, favoured town growth; and before the Norman conquest of England, Gloucester was a borough governed by a portreeve, with a castle which was frequently a royal residence, and a mint. In the early 10th century the remains of Saint Oswald were brought to a small church here and shrine built there, a draw for pilgrims. The core street layout is thought to date to the reign of Æthelflæd in late Saxon times.

In 1051 Edward the Confessor held court at Gloucester and was threatened there by an army led by Godwin, Earl of Wessex, but the incident resulted in a standoff rather than a battle.

After the Norman Conquest, William Rufus made Robert Fitzhamon the first baron or overlord of Gloucester. Fitzhamon had a military base at Cardiff Castle, and for the succeeding years the history of Gloucester was closely linked to that of Cardiff.

During the Anarchy, Gloucester was a centre of support for the Empress Matilda, who was supported in her claim to the throne by her half-brother, Fitzhamon's grandson, Robert, 1st Earl of Gloucester (also known as Robert of Gloucester). After this period of strife ended with the ascent of her son Henry to the throne Henry II of England, Henry granted Robert possession of Cardiff Castle, and it later passed to William Fitz Robert, 2nd Earl of Gloucester son of Robert. The story of the Anarchy is vividly told in a series of 19th-century paintings by William Burges at the Castle.

Henry granted Gloucester its first charter in 1155, which gave the burgesses the same liberties as the citizens of London and Winchester. A second charter of Henry II gave them freedom of passage on the River Severn. The first charter was confirmed in 1194 by King Richard I. The privileges of the borough were greatly extended by the charter of King John (1200), which gave freedom from toll throughout the kingdom and from pleading outside the borough.

In 1216 King Henry III, aged only ten years, was crowned with a gilded iron ring in the Chapter House of Gloucester Cathedral. During his reign, Eleanor, Fair Maid of Brittany his cousin was briefly imprisoned at Gloucester Castle as state prisoner from 1222 to 1223, and from 1237 to 1238, in addition to sometime during the reign of King John.

Gloucester's significance in the Middle Ages is underlined by the fact that it had a number of monastic establishments, including St Peter's Abbey founded in 679 (later Gloucester Cathedral), the nearby St Oswald's Priory, Gloucester founded in the 880s or 890s, Llanthony Secunda Priory, founded 1136 as a retreat for a community of Welsh monks (now near the western bypass), the Franciscan Greyfriars community founded in 1231 (near Eastgate Shopping Centre), and the Dominican Blackfriars community founded in 1239 (Ladybellegate Street). It also has some very early churches including St Mary de Lode Church, Gloucester near the Cathedral and the Norman St Mary de Crypt Church, Gloucester in Southgate Street.

Additionally, there is evidence of a Jewish community in Gloucester as early as 1158–1159; they lived around present-day East Gate Street and had a synagogue on the south side, near St Michael's church. Gloucester was probably the home of Rabbi Moses, who established an important Anglo-Jewish family. The Jews of the town were falsely accused by the Dominican monks of murdering a child, Harold of Gloucester, in an attempt to establish a cult similar to that of William of Norwich, which failed entirely. Nevertheless, the accusations were recycled around the time of the Edict of Expulsion. In January 1275, Eleanor of Provence expelled Jews from all of the towns within her dower lands, and the Jews of Gloucester were ordered to move to Bristol but finding an especially difficult situation there, relocated to Hereford.

In the Middle Ages the main export was wool, which came from the Cotswolds and was processed in Gloucester; other exports included leather and iron (tools and weapons). Gloucester also had a large fishing industry at that time.

In 1222, a massive fire destroyed part of Gloucester.

One of the most significant periods in Gloucester's history began in 1378 when Richard II convened Parliament in the city. Parliaments were held there until 1406 under Henry IV of England. The Parliament Rooms at the Cathedral remain as testimony to this important time.

Gloucester was incorporated by King Richard III in 1483, the town being made a county in itself.

The City's charter was confirmed in 1489 and 1510, and other charters of incorporation were received by Gloucester from Queen Elizabeth I and King James I. Princess Mary visited Gloucester in September 1525 accompanied by her ladies and gentlewomen. She was met by the Mayor, John Rawlins, at Quedgeley. Her father Henry VIII and his then Queen, Anne Boleyn, visited in July 1535. They used Gloucester as a base for hunting trips to Painswick, Coberley, and Miserden. They left Gloucester for Leonard Stanley, on their way to Berkeley Castle.

Gloucester was the site of the execution by burning of John Hooper, Bishop of Gloucester, in the time of Queen Mary in 1555. In 1580, Gloucester was awarded the status of a port by Queen Elizabeth I.

The 16th and 17th centuries saw the foundation of two of Gloucester's grammar schools: the Crypt School in 1539 and Sir Thomas Rich's School in 1666. Both still flourish as grammar schools today, along with Ribston Hall and Denmark Road High School.

During the English Civil War, the fall of nearby Bristol encouraged the reinforcement of the existing town defences. The siege of Gloucester commenced in 1643 in which the besieged parliamentarians emerged victorious. The Royalist's plan of bombardment and tunnelling to the east gate failed due to the inadequacy of the Royalist artillery and the besieged sniping and conducting artillery fire on the Royalist encampment.

By the mid-17th century, only the gatehouse and keep of Gloucester Castle remained, the latter of which was being used as a gaol until it was deemed unsuitable and demolished in the late 1780s. By 1791, the new gaol was completed leaving no trace of the former castle.

In the 19th century the city grew with new buildings including Wellington Parade and the Grade II listed Picton House (c. 1825).

The 1896 Gloucester smallpox epidemic affected some 2000 residents.

During the Second World War, two petroleum storage depots were constructed in Gloucester. A Government Civil Storage depot with six 4,000-ton semi-buried tanks was constructed on the Berkeley Canal in 1941/42 by Shell-Mex and BP and connected to the pipeline that ran from the Mersey to the Avon. It was also connected to the Air Force Reserve Depot and a Shell Mex and BP facility for road and rail loading. Due to severe tank corrosion, it was demolished in 1971/2 and disposed of in 1976. The second depot was an Air Force Reserve Depot with four 4,000-ton semi-buried tanks constructed in 1941/42 by Shell, Shell-Mex and BP at the Monk Meadow Dock on the Canal. Originally, delivery was by road, rail and barge and pipeline. It was also connected to the docks and to the Shell Mex and BP installation for rail and road loading facilities and the civil storage site. It was transferred from the Air Ministry to the Ministry of Power in 1959, closed in the 1990s and disposed of in the later 2000s.

Gloucester's most important citizens include Robert Raikes (founder of the Sunday School movement) who is still commemorated by the name of Robert Raikes' House in Southgate Street. Its most infamous citizen was Fred West.

In July 2007, Gloucester was hit badly by a flood that struck Gloucestershire and its surrounding areas. Hundreds of homes were flooded, but the event was most memorable because of its wider impact – about 40,000 people were without power for 24 hours, and the entire city (plus surrounding areas) was without piped water for 17 days.

In 2009, Gloucester Day was revived as an annual day of celebration of Gloucester's history and culture. The day originally dates from the lifting of the Siege of Gloucester in 1643, during which the city held out against Royalist forces during the First English Civil War.

Prior to my arrival to Gloucester, whilst I knew a smidgeon of the city's rich history, I was largely ignorant of what else the city had to offer, a fact that I was hoping to correct during the course of my day. By and large, Gloucester is fairly easy to reach by train with journey times of just over two hours although, depending on the service, it is not always direct. Having changed trains at both Derby and Cheltenham Spa, thankfully with short turnaround times, I arrived at my destination shortly after midday on what was a pleasantly warm and dry Thursday afternoon. I was in good spirits, primarily due to my train journey being relatively uneventful and fairly smooth. Leaving Gloucester train station and negotiating some refurbishment work taking place immediately outside, I turned right and headed in the general direction of the city centre. A few yards further on, I crossed to the other side of the road and took the next left onto Northgate Street where, a short distance away, on the left, I would find my first stop for the afternoon. My magical mystery tour of Gloucester's drinking establishments would begin at the Northend Vaults.

Originally a merchant's house, the Grade II listed building that is now the Northend Vaults has been a pub since around 1660 but is believed to be much older. It was refronted in the mid-late 18th century, but also features later additions from the 19th and 20th centuries. The pub was formerly known as the Tut 'n' Shive in the mid 90s before becoming just The Vaults. After a brief period of closure at the end of 2013, it reopened in April 2014 under the current name. Previously a Craft Union pub, meaning it was part of EI's wet led pub chain, it is now operated by Stonegate. I was eager to see what a pub in Gloucester would have to offer. The pub's interior is a mix of original features and more contemporary characteristics. The front door leads into a small foyer-style space with seating to either side. The floors are bare wood and there are original beams in situ, along with whitewashed ceilings and green painted walls. The bar is fairly small and located roughly halfway down the room. To the rear is further seating, along with access to a patio garden. TVs are located in most areas of the pub, with an emphasis on sport or daytime television. The furniture is basic scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. The overall layout of the pub is roughly square. Upon the aforementioned bar, I was pleased to see two handpulls, although just one was in use, offering Wadworth 6X. I was greeted by the friendly landlady and the two regulars propping at the bar, both with thick Gloucestershire accents and before long I was retreating to a secluded table in one of the snug-like areas near to the door, with a half of 6X in my hand (priced at £2.10). I may have mentioned this more than once in previous blogs but I like to try and use my first destination of any trip as a way to get my bearings and absorb some of the feel for the wider location. Based on what the Northend Vaults had offered, I was expecting a mix of older 'locals' pubs and more modern venues catering more to visitors and tourists. Time would soon tell how accurate that assessment would be. The Northend Vaults had been a good place to start. I felt welcome and the beer on offer was well kept. Whilst not the best Wadworth I've ever drank, it was certainly tasty and refreshed me after my train journey. Where would my trip to Gloucester take me next?

Luckily, my next two locations are opposite each other and only a short walk from the Northend Vaults. Leaving the pub and turning left, I continued down Northgate Street. A few yards further on, pub number two came into view on the opposite side of the road. Crossing over, I approached the Imperial Inn. 

Another listed pub, this former Mitchells and Butlers property is now owned by Punch Taverns. The pub is Victorian, as evidenced by the glazed green tiles and etched bar windows. The elaborate crest over the door, along with the tiling used to display the pub name, are also nods to its architectural heritage. I approached the door with a degree of trepidation but I needn't have worried, for reasons that will become very clear. Inside, the pub is one large room, a product of a 1985 refurbishment when three original, smaller rooms were knocked through into one large space. The bar is in the left hand corner of the room. Seating is arranged around the edges of the room, in the form of wooden tables and chairs. In general, the interior is relatively unchanged, barring the presence of TVs on a couple of the walls and a dartboard in one corner. The toilets are at the back of the room, through surprisingly narrow doors. The bar features 4 handpulls. Three of these were available at the time of my visit, with a choice of Bass and Fuller's London Pride, alongside Thatcher's Cheddar Valley cider. I decided on a half of Bass (£2.15) and made my way to a table opposite the bar. Then it dawned on me. The TVs in the bar were playing Kerrang. Could it be? Metallica came on the jukebox (Wherever I May Roam). It was true! This is a rock pub! A closer inspection of some of the internal decor, posters and flyers revealed that the Imperial Inn does indeed market itself as a rock pub. A very pleasant and welcome surprise! I hadn't expected to find anything of the sort here so I was very happy indeed to learn that this place existed. It also helped that the Bass was cracking. It was sorely tempting to stay for longer but I had a long itinerary planned so resigned myself to having to move on. Perhaps I'd have time for a revisit on my way back. 

My next stop was a mere stone's throw away. Turning right out of the Imperial, I came to a road junction, across which stands the third pub of the day. Onto The Abbey.

What was once two pubs was converted into one large building some years ago. The Abbey benefits from close proximity to the Cathedral and is renowned for being particularly busy on Gloucester Rugby home match days. Operated by Stonegate, the Abbey was formerly part of Mitchells and Butlers Scream brand of student-oriented pubs but now forms part of the Crafted Social branch of Stonegate's estate. The pub footprint is large and rectangular with a long bar taking up the majority of the main room. The decor is light, bright and modern with neon signs, posters offering deals and slogans adorning the walls. A raised, paved and partly covered beer garden, with bright furniture, can be accessed through a door to the rear. The toilets are located in a nearby corridor. The rear of the pub is split level with a small flight of steps down to an area of pool tables. The seating is largely standard tables and chairs although there are areas of high stools and booth-style spaces near the entrance. Multiple TVs, showing various sports, can be found throughout. Like the previous stops, the pub was fairly quiet when I arrived but it's clearly a venue that does get very busy. On the bar, there are a bank of 6 handpulls. Only one of these was in use on the day but, seeing as it was providing St. Austell Proper Job, it wasn't all bad. I naturally ordered this and made my way to a small table towards the back of the room. The Proper Job (£2.30 a half) was decent. I don't see it on draught nearly enough so it was good to find it in good condition, especially in the kind of pub that wouldn't necessarily be associated with well kept ale. 

I was well into the swing of things by now and it was back out into the glorious Gloucester afternoon. Leaving The Abbey, I turned left and followed the road along. Once I reached Pitt Street, I turned left again, making my way past one of the local grammar schools which either seemed to be returning from lunch or between lessons, judging by the number of uniformed children that were about. My next location lies at the end of Pitt Street, at the junction with St. Mary's Street and was a stop that I was very much looking forward to, given its significant reputation for cracking beer. Next stop: The Pelican Inn.

Dating from 1679, the Grade II listed Pelican is something of an institution in the city. Once briefly owned by Banks' Brewery from 1995-1999, during which time it was called the College Arms, it is now a family-run traditional alehouse, operated by Wye Valley Brewery. Other than the short period mentioned above, the pub has virtually always been called The Pelican, a name thought to derive from the local belief that some of its wooden beams came from Sir Francis Drake's ship The Golden Hind, which began life as The Pelican. Under Wye Valley's 12 years of ownership, the pub has gone from strength to strength. It is a multiple award winner of both regional and local Pub of the Year and Cider Pub of the Year titles and is the current holder of the Pub of the Year award from the local CAMRA branch. It is, perhaps unsurprisingly, listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide, one of a half a dozen pubs in the city to be featured. I was about to find out why. The pub can be accessed either through the front door, which leads directly into the bar, or through a door in the rear garden, the way that I chose to enter. This took me down a corridor, through a small room adjacent to the bar space, and then into the bar itself. The bar space is small, with original beams, low ceiling and wooden floors, and hop flowers festooned above. Seating is in banquette and small table form. Additional seating can be found in the adjacent room and there is also seating in the garden. The walls are decorated with photos of the local area, alongside many items of brewery memorabilia. A noticeboard inside the front door displays CAMRA awards and notices about upcoming events. The bar is, safe to say, stocked. There are a whopping 10 handpulls, alongside a smaller number of kegs taps and there are also craft cans and bottles for consumption on the premises and for takeaway purposes. The majority of the cask offering comes from Wye Valley. On the occasion of my visit, 7 of their beers were available, specifically Hopping Mad, Butty Bach, Silver Fox, Hopfather, Wholesome Stout, HPA and Atomic Blonde but there were also 3 guest ales in attendance, in the shape of Pentrich Blizzard in the Pines, Grasshopper Devil's Horse and Neptune Pacu. I wasn't going to pass up Wye Valley beer in a Wye Valley pub for love nor money so, after a moment's perusal, I went for the Atomic Blonde (4.4%), billed as a blonde ale brewed with British hops, and parted with the unfathomably reasonable sum of £2 for a half, before finding a table almost opposite the bar. Everything I'd heard about this pub was spot on. The atmosphere was welcoming and friendly, the pub is a beer lover's dream and the beer itself is fantastic! Atomic Blonde is a limited release from Wye Valley and I was glad I'd had the chance to give it a go. It's equal parts fruity and floral with a bitterness from the hops coming through. It certainly seemed to disappear very quickly, which is always a good sign! The Pelican fully deserves the accolades it has acquired and I have no doubt that there will be more in its future. 

I made my way out of The Pelican, regretfully it must be said, and retraced my route to the front of the building before turning left. This took me down behind the cathedral grounds and through an area of housing. Reaching the other side of a small square, I turned left into Westgate Street and continued. Finding the impressive Cathedral on my left, I walked a short distance until I saw a small passageway on the right hand side which would lead me to my next destination. Another pub to feature in the 2024 Good Beer Guide, this is The Fountain Inn.

An ale house is believed to have existed on this site since 1216, the year in which a 9 year old King Henry III was crowned at the nearby Cathedral. He would go on to reign for 56 years. The first known written reference to a pub on this site is in the year 1455, when it was known as 'Savage Ys In'. The present building dates from the 17th century. King William III is said to have ridden his horse up at a shallow flight of stone stairs in this building as a show of contempt for the Jacobites that used to meet here in support of the deposed King James II. In its current guise, a passage from Westgate Street leads through to an enclosed courtyard and the front of the pub. The leads through into the Cathedral Bar which features a panelled ceiling and a carved stone fireplace. The right hand side of the room features low tables and chairs and access to the toilets. The left features more of the same, along with banquette seating and high tables and stools. The bar is roughly central and boasts 7 handpulls. All of these were occupied when I walked in and offered an interesting array of options: Dartmoor Jail Ale, Black Sheep Best Bitter, Adnams Southwold, St. Austell Tribute, Wye Valley HPA, Stroud Tom Long and Timothy Taylor Golden Best. Tom Long is a beer I've long been meaning to try so this one got the nod here. I managed to procure a stool at a high table next to the door with my half (£2.25) and take in my surroundings. This is another atmospheric place for a beer. The history of this place seeps from the walls and it's somewhat overwhelming to think that people have enjoyed coming here for over 800 years. I certainly enjoyed myself. Tom Long (3.8%) is an amber session bitter. It's full bodied and carries caramel notes and a spicy orange aroma. The beer is named after the mythical highwayman of Minchinhampton Common. Whilst weaker than I would normally go for, it more than makes up for it in flavour! The Fountain is another absolute highlight from my trip that I'm glad I took the time to visit. 

Another Good Beer Guide 2024 listed pub was next on the agenda. Making my way back out of the passageway from which I'd entered, I turned right and continued for a short distance down Westgate Street until I reached another passageway, Bull Lane. Turning into this, I soon encountered The Drunken Duck.

The smallest pub in Gloucester, and one of two micropubs on my trip, The Drunken Duck was formerly known as Angie's Bar. Downstairs is one small room with a bar at the end and a small number of tables opposite. There is a unisex toilet immediately adjacent to the bar. An upstairs room is a chill out area featuring board games, music and a piano. Additional seating can be found outside the front of the pub. Duck themed artwork features throughout On the bar sits a bank of 4 handpulls and a trio of these were proffering goodies when I walked in. As well as the house beer, Duck House Bitter, brewed by Butcombe, I had also had the option of Bristol Beer Factory Everytime and Butcombe Lucky Irish Stout. I fancied something darker this time and so opted for the stout (£2.25 a half) before pulling up a chair at a table near the door. Even though, besides myself, the only other customers were a trio of American tourists and a regular with his dog Doris (a lovely, and very friendly spaniel who was insistent on a fuss and even jumped onto my lap), the pub did not feel crowded despite its small size. Instead I felt welcomed and even felt comfortable enough to join in with a conversation about how much of a pain in the arse it is driving around Birmingham. The beer here was also sensational. Lucky Irish Stout (4.8%) is packed full of chocolate and coffee notes with light toastiness, dark fruitiness and a dry finish. It was absolutely exceptional! The most recent trio of pubs had been brilliant. Would the theme continue?

Up to this point, my trip to Gloucester had gone swimmingly. However, disappointment loomed on the horizon. Having left the Drunken Duck, I continued to the end of Bull Lane and turned left. Shortly after, I arrived at the aptly named Cross Keys Lane where, you won't be surprised to learn, I found the Cross Keys Inn.

This 16th century inn is tucked away but relatively easy to find. Two doors lead to one of two bars, one small and one much larger. The smaller bar is square with a small number of tables opposite as well as in a small alcove nearby. The larger room is split level, with a raised stage area for live music. Decor throughout is wooden beams, whitewashed walls and wooden floors. The Cross Keys is a shrine to both Motown and Northern Soul, with a soundtrack to match, and features framed photos of various performers and luminaries from both musical genres across the walls, along with framed vinyl records. During my research into pubs to visit, evidence suggested that the pub serves real ale. Imagine my disappointment when this turned out not to be the case. No handpumps were to be seen anywhere when I walked in and I instead resorted to half a Guinness (£2.20). The landlord was welcoming enough but that's not why I was here. I'm sure the music is enough of an attraction locally and it's clear that the pub attracts a crowd based on that but real ale lovers are better served elsewhere. 

Following the damp squib of the Cross Keys, I was hoping for better from my next destination. Exiting Cross Keys Lane from the opposite end to where I'd come in, I found myself on Southgate Street. A quick stop for lunch revitalised me and I followed the main street down to an archway, leading to a small side street called Marylone, opposite Robert Raikes' House (which is now a pub but unfortunately it's a Sam Smith's venue). Marylone took me into the shadow of St. Mary de Lode church and to a medieval building opposite, which now houses Cafe Rene.

This converted building dates from the mid-18th century and is Grade II listed. Inside, a single bar in one corner serves two rooms. The front room is a bar space with wooden tables and chairs but also unusual features such as an original stone wellhead in the centre of the room and a carved baptismal font over to one side. The rear room is laid out for dining. The walls and ceiling throughout are decorated with empty wine bottles. There is also further seating outside, to the front of the building, in the form of picnic tables. The whole layout is quite quirky but it did also feel a bit open. The rooms are large and it almost feels like the space isn't being fully utilised.  The good news is though, there is real ale here. Three handpulls occupy space on the bar with offerings from within the Greene King range as well as a guest. On the day, I had to choose between Greene King Yardbird, Belhaven 80/- and North Cotswold Windrush Ale. I've not had nearly enough beers from North Cotswold so the Windrush Ale (3.6%) would do the trick at £2.20 for a half pint. I ventured outside to enjoy the sunshine only to discover that the sun had gone in, but it wasn't cold so I settled onto a picnic bench to enjoy my beer and the view of the church opposite. Another weaker option by my standards, Windrush Ale is an amber coloured session ale brewed with English hops. It's malty on the palate and slightly sweet. It's thirst quenching and refreshing enough. Cafe Rene is an odd venue. I wasn't entirely sure what to expect when I first arrived. There's something odd about the atmosphere inside. I'm not sure whether it's the lack of windows which makes it feel like being underground, or whether it's the presence of such random items as a well and a baptismal font in a pub like this. Maybe there's another explanation. The pub is allegedly one of the most haunted buildings in Gloucester, boasting 6 alleged spirits. Amongst the spiritual inhabitants are believed to be a 12th century monk who roams the building with a candle, an elderly woman and a ginger-bearded middle-aged man. The pub was previously known as the Greyfriars Inn so perhaps at least one of these figures dates from this time. The most persistent activity though is that of a poltergeist which has been known to pour spirits from optics, smash glasses and throw bags of crisps around the place. Whatever the explanation for the claimed phenomena, there's certainly something strange in the air at Cafe Rene. No, I didn't find out whose birthday it was........

The next segment of the afternoon required a little bit more walking before it got underway. Heading back out onto Southgate Street, I turned left and headed out of the city centre proper and in the direction of the quayside. The whole area around Gloucester Quays has been significantly modernised in recent years and now includes a whole host of shopping outlets, restaurants and upmarket drinking venues. One such of the latter would be by next stop. Crossing an open square, and ignoring a branch of Wetherspoons, I reached the quay itself. Located on the canalside is the Gloucester Quays branch of Brewhouse & Kitchen.

Part of the national chain of brewpubs, this modern venue overlooks the Gloucester to Sharpness canal and is listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. The interior is modern with exposed ductwork, bespoke lighting and high ceilings. The myriad windows allow a bright and airy feel throughout. As with the other venues across the country, a small brewing kit can be seen in one corner where beers are created especially for the pub. Seating takes the form of both tables and booths and is largely of wooden design. Seating can also be found outside for warmer days. The bar is L-shaped and at the centre of the room. The seating is arranged around the interior and a staircase to one side leads up to the toilets. A piano can be found at the bottom of the staircase. On the bar are 4 handpulls, displaying the pub's own brews. On this occasion Shed Head IPA (x2), Stevedore Bitter and Project Cask XPA were available. I went for the latter (£2.55 a half) and found a table over to one side where I also discovered that the venue features TVs which, at the time, were showing the 80s buddy cop movie Turner & Hooch. The XPA (4.5%) is an April seasonal brew across the chain. It's a pale ale with big, citrus hop flavours and tropical notes. It's a very very nice beer, tasting like summer in a glass. I like Brewhouse & Kitchen as a chain and I like what they do with their venues. Whilst they might be a bit modern for some purists, the beer is great and their model is strong. Plus, with all the fuss about beer miles and locally produced beer, how much more local can it get when you're drinking beer in the same room in which it is brewed?

I could have stayed at Brewhouse & Kitchen for another but time was moving on and I had to as well. I retraced my steps back through the Gloucester Quays development until I found myself back on Southgate Street. Turning right, I continued on until I saw my next destination on the right hand side. I was about to have another frustrating experience, this time at Baker Street.

Formerly the Hauliers Arms, Baker Street is a family-run traditional pub dating from the Victorian era. A recent refurbishment has completely updated the interior, which is carpeted throughout. Sherlock Holmes memorabilia features in some of the decor but the pub has no connection to Arthur Conan Doyle or his most famous creation and is simply named after a road that once ran beside the pub but has been truncated by the Gloucester Quays development. This is one of the few pubs in Gloucester, especially in the city centre, that has retained a skittle alley, which is around the corner from the bar. The bar runs along one side of the room. The seating is traditional wooden tables and chairs and the lighting is subdued. A large projector screen occupies one wall of a slightly raised area and there are further TVs to the rear. Sadly, despite the exterior signs loudly proclaiming the presence of cask ale, none can be found here. No handpumps are located on the bar or anywhere else and, on the day of my visit, there was an even bigger issue for the pub as a whole. In lieu of the absence of cask, I attempted to order Guinness but was thwarted in this endeavour as none of the draught products were available. No explanation for this was given but I suspect that this must have been a cellar problem. I find it hard to believe that a pub would completely run out of draught products, even with supply issues, so I'm inclined to blame a technical fault. The end result of this was that I was restricted to fridge products, meaning that I had to lower myself to bottled lager and ultimately paid £3.30 for Estrella which I drank as quickly as possible. 

Determined to put a second negative experience behind me, I continued my journey down Southgate Street, eventually reaching a major road junction. Continuing straight, onto what had now become Bristol Road, I was only a couple of minutes from the next pub. I soon saw it over the road and, negotiating some awkwardly placed temporary traffic lights, I made my way to the Linden Tree.

This Grade II listed Georgian terrace building sits at the end of a row of 10 houses. Building began in 1836 and the row was originally known as Theresa Place. It is now a Good Beer Guide 2024 beer destination pub. The interior features beamed ceilings and an open log fire with an unusual canopy. The front bar features a variety of seating. To the rear can be found a skittle alley, function room and sports bar and there is small patio to the front with picnic table style seating. All manner of bric-a-brac and artefacts are displayed throughout the pub. One bar faces into the front toom and includes 6 handpulls. Three of these were in use on the day in question, with a choice of Wye Valley Butty Bach and HPA alongside Wadworth 6X. Torn between the two Wye Valley beers, I swung for the HPA (£2.10 for a half) and took a seat at a table opposite the bar. The HPA was in excellent condition, fully supporting the Linden Tree's GBG listing. Whilst enjoying my beer, I briefly caught the attention of a Shar-Pei who was investigating the inside of the pub whilst taking a break from helping his human dad paint the benches outside. I was glad that the Linden Tree had lived up to its reputation after my exertions at Baker Street. It's a comfortable and cosy pub that takes pride in its offering and its connections to the local community. 

I had reached the furthest outwards point of my journey so I now began my way back towards the centre, so I would be better placed to easily reach the station in plenty of time for my return train. I wasn't quite done with pubs yet though. On my way down Southgate Street I had identified a pub that hadn't been on my initial itinerary that I thought would be worth a punt. To that end, I retraced my steps and entered The Tall Ship.

The Tall Ship was originally built, in the Italianate style, in the mid to late 19th century, when it was known as the British Flag. In the 1980s, it became The Tall Ships, at which time it was owned by Wadworth. Red Oak Taverns acquired the lease in April 2021 and carried out a major refurbishment that same year. The building has been Grade II listed since 1998 and still retains some of the original architectural features, including sash windows with stone frames and moulded cornices and architraves. It is unclear exactly when the name of the pub became the singular 'tall ship' but this is most likely linked to the 2021 upgrade. Internally, the pub is large with a central bar and a two-bar layout. The front bar features stools at the bar as well as wooden tables and chairs. A mirrored bar back often has amusing quotes written on it. The rear room is adjacent to an outside patio, which was refurbished in 2015. As it turned out, this 'wild card' entry would prove to be a good choice. Amongst the quartet of handpumps, one was in use, with Wye Valley Butty Bach available (£2.10 a half). I took a vacant seat at the bar and enjoyed the sounds of conversation from the regulars and staff around me. The beer was cracking too! I've had Butty Bach many a time in both cask and bottled form and this was up there with the best. 

I had just two pubs remaining on my jaunt around Gloucester and I was intrigued to see what they had to offer the intrepid beer explorer. Carrying on down Southgate Street and then onto Westgate Street, my penultimate destination was not far away. Time now for the New Inn Hotel.

The New Inn is a very old building. It originally came into existence in 1350 when it was built as a pilgrims inn for the accommodation of visitors to the shrine of Edward II in St. Peter's Abbey, which is now Gloucester Cathedral. After falling into disrepair, it was rebuilt in 1450 by a monk named John Twyning as a hostelry for the Abbey. Following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the inn passed to the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral and was leased various times until it was sold in 1858. Following the death of Edward VI in 1553, Lady Jane Grey was proclaimed queen from the balcony of the New Inn in an attempt to keep the Protestant succession alive. Her ill-fated reign lasted 9 days before she met her death by execution at the Tower of London under orders of 'Bloody' Queen Mary I. Entry to the inn is through a carriageway from Northgate Street and it is believed to be the oldest surviving complete example of a Medieval galleried inn in Britain. These galleries would have been perfect for performances and many travelling minstrel companies performed here including, it is believed, William Shakespeare himself. Plays are still occasionally performed in the courtyard. The courtyard itself leads to many different areas. A restaurant for guests is to the left, with the bar area, open to guests and visitors, to the right. A further bar area is to the rear and hotel rooms are accessed up a flight of stairs in the corner. Picnic tables provide outside seating. I was excited by the history of this place but much less so by the beer choice. Once again, real ale was non-existent. Guinness was at least available here though so I settled for a half of that (£2.50) and took a seat on a high table by the window overlooking the historic courtyard and enjoying the pop-punk soundtrack, which was strangely at odds with my 15th century surroundings. Historically, this place is fascinating. Just don't come here if you're not a fan of keg beer. Still, there is some additional interest. The inn is allegedly very haunted and holds regular overnight paranormal investigations. Primary activity seems to be poltergeist like with glasses being smashed and drinks spilled, including one particularly alarming event in 2010 when a full pint slid the length of a table, with nobody anywhere near it, and smashed on the floor as if dislodged by unseen hands. The whole incident was caught on CCTV and reported on the regional news, adding to the inn's reputation. Additionally, children's disembodied voices have been heard and even captured on recording devices, when no children are known to be present. Spooky stuff indeed. 

Back on the corporeal plane, my Guinness glass was empty and, whilst I was enjoying the music, I had one more place to tick off. Heading down Northgate Street, I turned off onto St. Aldate's Street. My journey would come to a close at the Turks Head Inn.

Gloucester's first micropub, the Turks Head originally stood on Southgate Street before relocating to its present space in 2022. A central bar serves a square room with seating on banquettes and low tables to the right and inside the large front windows. The left features standing room as well as toilet access. The Turks Head is Good Beer Guide 2024 listed and also has a number of additional quirks that bear mentioning. Be aware that the pub only accepts payment in cash and mobile phones and other similar technology are steadfastly unwelcome. In my case, I used my phone to take the above photo and then stowed it away before I entered and left it in my pocket until I left. Children are also not permitted. The Turks Head is an adult only environment that adheres to traditional values and eschews the trappings of modern technology. In this case though, that's definitely not a bad thing. A bank of 4 handpulls line the bar. When I entered, three of these were in use offering a pale, a red ale and a dark beer. Namely, the available beers were Milestone Cushty Peeve, Parkway Fire & Blood and Wantsum UXB. I had already decided that I would finish my day off with a pint and, as the Turks Head sells all of its cask ales for £3.80 all day every day, it would have been rude not to. I went for the Cushty Peeve (4.5%), a hazy pale ale. This proved to be a great choice with big citrus hop notes, grapefruit and pine on the palate and a crisp finish. Staying for another was tempting but I had no time. The Turks Head is a good example of a micropub that leans more towards a clientele who prefer an escape from our modern world of 24 hour doomscrolling. Some may balk at not being able to pay by card but it's not like you haven't been forewarned. I don't particularly mind if some pubs refuse to take card or cash as long as I make the effort to find out in advance and I'm prepared. After all, as long as I can pay for my beer, I'm not bothered about how.

With the last drops drunk and the last pub ticked off, I was done. I made my weary way back to the train station for my return trip, which was thankfully direct. Once settled in my train seat for the 2 hour and 15 minute journey back, safe in the knowledge I wouldn't have to get off until Nottingham, I reflected on how my afternoon had played out. Gloucester had been an interesting one. It had, in some ways, confirmed some things that I'd previously heard about it but, in other ways, it had exceeded my expectations. I found and enjoyed excellent pubs but I also endured a couple of venues that were a bit of a letdown. This isn't reflective just of Gloucester as a sole entity though. There are other places where cracking pubs sit side by side with venues that maybe need to do a bit more. I don't doubt that the venues in question all attract their regulars and keep their custom, as I doubt that they would still be open otherwise, but it is frustrating when pubs turn out to be less than expected. The flipside of that is the joy and surprise when a pub turns out to be much better than predicted, which has happened more than a few times during the course of my adventures. Gloucester should perhaps be spoken of in the same breath as Peterborough. Places where modernity and tradition collide in a microcosm of the wider country. Was my visit worth it? Yes. Did I learn a lot? Yes. Is it all a bit random and odd? Definitely. But what is life without adventure. 

Pub of the day: The Pelican. Great atmosphere, wonderful aesthetic, cracking beer.

Beer of the day: Butcombe Lucky Irish Stout. Just fantastic.

Biggest surprise: The Imperial Inn. I was not expecting a rock pub when I walked in.