Where There's a Wil.....

This week's beer-based adventure allowed me to take advantage of a spare afternoon following an early morning work delivery shift. I decided that my time would be well served in a location that was not too far from either work or the city centre as I was later due to meet Amy after work. To that end, I finally crossed off a location that I'd been meaning to get to for ages and set my sights on Wilford.

Wilford is a village close to the centre of Nottingham. The population is included in the Clifton North Ward of Nottingham Unitary Authority. The village is bounded to the north and west by the River Trent and to the east by the embankment of the now closed Great Central Railway. The now demolished Wilford Power Station was located on the north bank of the River Trent.
Remains of a paved ford, bordered by oak posts, were found in the Trent at Wilford in 1900. The settlement is named as Willesforde in Domesday Book, owned by William Pevrel of Nottingham Castle, who also owned the lands of nearby Clifton. It had a fishery, a priest and 23 sokemen. The land passed to the Clifton family in the 13th Century.
Wilford retained its identity as a village until the later 19th century. Surrounded by woodlands and with riverside amenities such as the Wilford Ferry Inn, the village attracted many visitors from Nottingham. Spencer Hall, the Nottinghamshire poet, wrote in 1846 "Who ever saw Wilford without wishing to become an inmate of one of its peaceful woodbined homes."
In 1870 the Clifton Colliery opened on the north side of the Trent, and the area opposite Wilford became industrialised. By the end of the century the village had changed character, with modern brick-built houses replacing old thatched cottages.
The parish was divided into North Wilford and South Wilford in 1887. The population increased to four and a half thousand by 1901, almost a ten-fold increase since 1801. The civil parish of South Wilford became part of West Bridgford urban district in 1935.
The Silverdale housing estate was built on the southern edge of Wilford on farmland. An adjacent estate, Compton Acres, was built in 1986.

Although I regularly pass through Wilford on my way to and from work or the city centre, I had yet to further inspect what it had to offer by way of delights for the ale drinker. My itinerary for the afternoon would technically stretch beyond the village boundaries but the pubs involved can, for all intents and purposes, be shoehorned in geographically. My first stop is located on Wilford Lane and, whilst it technically falls within West Bridgford, it's close enough to count. I once applied for a job here but today it was strictly pleasure, at the Beeches Hotel.

This stylish and modern establishment operates as a hotel with an in-house gym, spa and restaurant. Downstairs is the object of my visit, Oscar's Bar & Restaurant, which serves excellent home cooked food and a good selection of drinks to both residents and visitors. The bar includes 2 handpulls, just one of which is in use when I arrive. This particular pump is proffering Harvest Pale and this is in excellent condition and tasting just as it should be. I took a seat on a high table opposite the bar and enjoyed my pint, which I had evidently needed as it barely touched the sides! Whilst the Beeches is better renowned for its food, the beer is well kept and they also provide a small number of bottled ales.

Moving on from the Beeches was easy enough as there is a bus stop right outside and plenty of buses that run towards Wilford itself. This meant that it was no time at all until I was on my way to my next stop, situated opposite the main road through the village and adjacent to a Co-Op. Operated by the gastropub chain R&F, and now locally renowned for fantastic locally sourced food following a substantial refurbishment a few years ago, is The Wilford Green Pub & Kitchen.

The interior of the pub is a combination of traditional and modern features, including exposed beams and original artefacts, enclosed in a glass cabinet in the centre of the room. Seating takes the form of tables with normal chairs and bench-like sofas and the tables are all pre-set for dining. The bar includes 4 handpulls, offering a good selection of beers, in this case Harvest Pale, their own Wilford Green Ale, Courage Directors and Bombardier. After a moment's deliberation, I went for a pint of Bombardier and took it to a table near the bar, partially obscured by the aforementioned glass cabinet. The surroundings here are very comfortable and it's easy to see this place being full in the evening, especially in colder weather where I can imagine much use is made of the log fire nearby. The beer was very tasty and it's clear that care is taken over how the beer is kept and this dedication shows.

There was a lot of walking involved for much of the rest of the afternoon and this trek began on the way to the next location. Leaving Wilford Green and passing the Co-Op, I took a left onto Ruddington Lane and followed this for approximately a mile, taking me past a tram stop and a local industrial estate, Upon reaching Landmere Lane, I turned left and followed the road around where I spotted my next destination just ahead. Set in picturesque surroundings on the top of a small hill is the Apple Tree.

Operated by Mitchells and Butlers as part of their Ember Inns estate, the Apple Tree is an open plan gastropub with carpeted floors and comfortable furniture. It serves the housing development of Wilford Hill and is near to the Compton Acres estate. The bar is equipped with 8 handpulls, 5 of which are in use, and 2 of which are used to advertise upcoming beers. Available to choose from at the time of my visit are Everard's Tiger, Brains Rev. James, Ember Inns Pale Ale (brewed by Black Sheep Brewery), Tribute and Rudgate Dick Firkin. I decided on the Dick Firkin but this proved to be a mistake as it tasted unmistakably vinegary and would not settle clear. I wasted no time in swapping it for a pint of the much more delicious Tribute. It was a shame to have to swap the beer but the staff were happy enough to change it and occasionally things like this happen. The Tribute was more than enough compensation though.

I retraced my steps in order to reach the next stop on my itinerary. Upon again reaching Wilford Lane, I crossed the road and headed for the premises that stands immediately opposite, in this case the Wilford Farm branch of Harvester.

The name of the location reflects its previous use as a farm and the building still maintains the outward appearance of a farmhouse. Internally, it is divided into 2 distinct areas, with the primary dining space to one side and a smaller area designated for casual drinkers on the other. The bar is opposite the entrance and is well stocked, including 3 handpulls, 2 of which are in use and both offering Greene King IPA. Whilst not my normal choice, it is very well kept and goes down very well after my long walk between pubs.

The next part of my journey took me into Wilford village proper, which sits either side of a main road that runs directly down towards both my next location and the local tram stop. Situated almost opposite the tram stop is the very attractive façade of the Ferry Inn.

 

The Ferry Inn is operated as part of the Chef & Brewer chain of the Spirit Pub Company, recently the subject of a takeover by Greene King. The pub first opened as a tavern frequented by city gentry in the 18th century and is named after the ferry that used to run through. The history of the site goes back to the 14th century with the building originally being a farmhouse, part of which is incorporated into the current structure. By the 18th century, the farmhouse had transitioned into a coffee shop to meet the demands of a public keen on meeting in coffee houses; locations described by Charles II as places where people 'met and spread scandalous reports'. The Ferry Inn began its pub life around this period with the name of the Punch Bowl, though changed its title, to reflect the often tempestuous and occasionally fatal ferry journey which was often used as a means for moving around the city. The Church of St. Wilfrid, which lies 300 feet from the pub entrance, dates from the same period as the farmhouse and is an impressive Grade II listed building, notable for its spectacular pointed arch doorway and memorial stained glass windows honouring Nottingham poet Henry Kirke White.
The pub has retained lots of traditional features including exposed beams, wooden floors and an olde worlde charm. The bar lies opposite the entrance and the premises has a split level layout with a designated restaurant style dining area down a short flight of steps opposite the bar. The bar itself features 5 handpulls, offering on my visit a choice between Directors, Doom Bar, Shipstone's Gold Star, Marston's Pedigree and Greene King IPA. I opted for a pint of the Directors and took a seat at a high table near the bar, on a long, covered bench. In addition to the delicious beer and the history mentioned above, I knew a couple of other things about the Ferry Inn. The first is that the general manager is a friend of mine called Dan who I haven't seen for a long time and was able to have a brief catch up with. The second was that the pub suffered from a poltergeist outbreak in the early 1980s. Glasses were periodically thrown from the bar and strange knocking sounds were prevalent until an exorcism was carried out in 1982. The Ferry Inn is certainly a pub worth visiting. It's comfortable, friendly and welcoming and the beer makes the trip more than worthwhile.

The final location on today's list was another that falls slightly outside of the defined Wilford area, situated as it is on the north side of the River Trent, as part of the Riverside Retail Park. When I first moved to Nottingham, the building in question was operating as a Harry Ramsden's but for many years since has been known as Riverside Farm.

 
This family-orientated pub and carvery is very popular with both diners and drinkers with the interior divided into 2 distinct areas. The right side of the bar serves as the public bar and the left side is used for the carvery and general meals. The bar also includes 3 handpulls, with a choice of Abbot Ale, Greene King IPA and Old Speckled Hen. The Speckled Hen proved to be a good choice as it was well kept and delicious and served well as a good bookend to what had been an interesting day's exploration.

Following my pint here, it was time to make my way back into the city centre to meet Amy. My afternoon exploring the pubs in and around Wilford had been an intriguing one. This area is often overlooked but there is no reason not to visit the drinking establishments here. The beers are well kept, the pubs are welcoming and if, as I did, you pick a day of good weather to make the effort, you'll certainly enjoy what's on offer. The ease of reaching this particular area is another advantage that will definitely make a trip to this part of Nottingham worthwhile. What are you waiting for? The beer won't drink itself!

An Acre of Ale

On Friday, I had the unusual opportunity to complete a second pub trip in 3 days, something which I'm hoping to be able to do more often, work schedule permitting. My choice of location this time was one of those places where I really didn't know what to expect. The glorious weather was continuing so there seemed no reason not to spend the day out in the sunshine. Following 2 bus journeys, I made the hop over the county boundary, to the town of Sandiacre.

Sandiacre is a town in the Borough of Erewash in Derbyshire. The population of the town was 8,889 at the 2011 Census.
The name Sandiacre is usually thought to refer to a sandy acre, though another interpretation, based on Saint Diacre, is sometimes advanced.
Seven miles west of Nottingham and nine miles east of Derby, Sandiacre is part of the Greater Nottingham urban area, just on the western side of the River Erewash from Stapleford in Nottinghamshire. Sandiacre is adjoined by Long Eaton to the south and Risley to the west. Junction 25 of the M1 motorway lies in Sandiacre, where it crosses the A52 Brian Clough Way.
The Erewash Canal passes through the centre of Sandiacre, and the small basin immediately above Sandiacre Lock (No. 11 on the canal) was once the terminal link of the now-defunct Derby Canal. Situated next to the canal in the town centre is the Springfield Mill, built in 1888 as a lace mill and a reminder of Sandiacre's industrial heritage, now converted into a modern apartment complex. Examples of lace making, engineering and furniture making can still be found today. The discovery of local ironstone led to the development of Stanton Ironworks in 1787. The EWS Toton depot, which lies on the edge of Sandiacre, was a main employer in the town a number of years ago.
Although there is currently no railway station, the town was once home to a terminal on the Midland Railway, and passenger trains travelling on the St. Pancras - Manchester Piccadilly line still passed along the border with Stapleford during 2003-2004.
Transport links to Nottingham, Derby and the surrounding area are currently provided by Trent Barton.

The parish church is Saint Giles Church, which dates back to the 10th century. There is also a Methodist church in the town.
The old village lock-up still exists, situated near to St. Giles.
The 1801 census recorded Sandiacre's population as 405. By 1901, this had risen to 2954, with the 1971 census reporting a population of 7792. The current population is now hovering at an estimated 9000.

The first location on my trip was situated slightly out of the centre of the town, down Longmoor Lane, towards the border with neighbouring Long Eaton. Situated just next to the feature from which it takes its name, is The Bridge.

Operated by the Pub People Company, this is a large family-friendly pub with a massive beer garden that is hugely popular in good weather. It's no surprise that there aren't too many people inside the pub given the weather on the day of my visit. The interior is divided into designated areas with a dining area to the left of the door, a drinking area of high tables opposite the J shaped bar and a pool area, restricted to over 18s, to the right. The bar includes 4 handpulls, one of which features Weston's Rosie's Pig cider. The other 3 provide a choice of Doom Bar, Thwaites' Wainwright and Pedigree. I decided to have a pint of the Wainwright, which looked and tasted excellent, and took a seat at one of the high tables opposite the bar. It was late afternoon by the time I'd arrived in Sandiacre, so people were slowly starting to arrive at the pub following work or the school run. The pub is very much family-oriented and has a nice, relaxed atmosphere. It's a peaceful start to my excursion, helped by the well-kept beer.

Retracing my steps down Longmoor Lane, I now walked back to where I'd got off the bus which happened to be directly opposite my next location. The next 2 pubs are in very close proximity, effectively separated by a side road and a Co-Op store. The first of the these 2, and my second stop for the day, was the White Lion.

 
This large two-roomed pub is split into a separate lounge to the left and the bar to the right. Entry to the building is through a central main door and there is a beer garden to the rear. Taking the right hand door when I walked in, I arrived in the bar area, which has a small bar to the left of the entrance, a seating area towards the rear and a smaller, raised area with low benches and round tables. There are 3 handpulls available, 2 of which were in use, offering a choice between Kieron's Tipple (brewed by the landlord) and St. Austell's Tribute. I opted for the Tribute, which was very good indeed and just as it should be. I took a seat in the aforementioned raised area, which also contained a small TV that for some reason was showing Come Dine With Me with full sound. The soundtrack in the pub was rock-oriented, which is always a massive plus, particularly when Bohemian Rhapsody came on!

From here, it was on to the next pub, a literal stone's throw away and similarly named. This one was the Red Lion.

Situated at the crossroads in the town, the pub features 2 red lions, one either side of the main doorway. The pub was refurbished in 2015 and now boasts gold, black and red décor to the front. There are two areas to the pub, both served by from a bar that sits roughly in the centre, with a wall to the front side and the pub kitchen area to the rear. There are quite a few locals in at the time of my visit and the landlord is setting up what is either a DJ or karaoke station. The pub also features a few TVs, showing Sky Sports News, some with sound. There are 2 handpulls on the bar, only one of which is being used on my visit, featuring Old Golden Hen. This is very well kept and goes down very smoothly, probably helped by the hot weather. It surprised me to learn that the pub is dog friendly and one canine visitor is particularly noisy but very cute!

I had a couple more pubs to visit before I headed back to town and these weren't too far away either. The Bridge is definitely an outlier in terms of walking distance! Leaving the Red Lion, I turned left and followed Town Street, which runs adjacent to the canal until, a couple of minutes walk away on the right, is The Plough.

Owned by Mitchells and Butlers, as part of their Sizzling Pubs estate, this is a large pub that backs onto the Erewash Canal. The main entrance leads to door further doors. The left entrance leads to a bar area with a pool table, dartboard and TVs whereas the right leads to a more family-orientated dining area. Both are served by a bar with a long dividing wall connecting both sections. The rear garden leads onto the canal and the front area has parasols and large picnic tables. There is also an ample car park at the front and a smaller one to the side. Each side of the bar includes 3 handpulls, making 6 in total and these are doubled up, so offering two of each of their beers. On this occasion, the beers are Everard's Tiger, Wadworth 6X and Dorset Brewing Company Citrus Maximus. It's been a while since I had a pint of Tiger so it didn't take me long to decide what to drink here. The Tiger was at its best and a testament to what is a very good quality beer. Another surprise was in store for me here when I discovered that a mate of mine, Fletch, was now working here. I hadn't seem him since a mutual friend's wedding over a year before so it was nice for the chance of a brief catch up.

The Plough was slowly beginning to fill up with evening drinkers and there were already a large group of labourers enjoying a well earned pint after a hard day. I had one more pub to visit and, as much as it would have been nice to stay at this comfortable pub, I knew I had to go the distance. I turned right upon leaving The Plough and followed the road ahead until it split. I then took the left hand split, onto Church Street and found my final destination nestling at the top of a small incline. My last stop on today's adventure was the Blue Bell.

Situated in the older part of Sandiacre, and opposite the old 1660 village lock-up 'for drunks and stray animals', the pub has recently been refurbished. The entrance leads into the bar, where dark wood and beams are used to create a relaxing olde worlde atmosphere. There is also a stove fire, which is in use in the winter months. The rear of the pub offers seating away from the bar and a conservatory that includes a pool table. A large blue bell hangs outside the entrance to the pub in the car park. 3 of the 5 handpulls are in use, one of which features Rosie's Pig. The other 2 offer a choice of Tiger and Adnams Ghost Ship. I decided on the Ghost Ship, which was delicious as always. I took a seat at a small table, near to the fireplace whilst I reluctantly restrained myself from saying hello to a very friendly Labrador that was trying to get the attention of every passer-by.

My wanders around Sandiacre had been a good way to spend a few hours and all without taking me too far away from my bus stop back to Nottingham. When the time came to wend my way back, a few minutes walk was all it took and the bus was with me in a couple of minutes. What were my overall thoughts about Sandiacre? It was certainly a friendlier place than I'd been concerned it would be and the pubs all had a friendly atmosphere. In terms of ale (the reason I was here), things are positive. Whilst the range of beers is limited, due to the nature of the pubs and the community, there is no doubting the consistency and quality of the beers that were on offer. There was not a bad pint all day and it's not often that that can be said in smaller towns like this one. The increased emphasis on real ale nationally, particularly where it affects community pubs, is no doubt one factor in this. The rest of it can no doubt be put down to the hard work and effort put in to ensure that real ale is as good as it could be as its resurgence continues. Sandiacre surprised me immensely. A barren acre? Not a chance!

Brave New World

It's been almost 3 years since Newark last made appearance in this blog, following a trip to the Newark Beer Festival on May Bank Holiday weekend. After all that time, I'd been hearing that Newark has since become something of a real ale haven so I could think of no better reason to head out there on my day off to give it a thorough going over.

Newark-on-Trent or Newark  is a market town in Nottinghamshire. It stands on the River Trent, the A1 (on the route of the ancient Great North Road), and the East Coast Main Line railway. The origins of the town are possibly Roman as it lies on an important Roman road, the Fosse Way. The town grew around Newark Castle, now ruined, and a large marketplace, now lined with historic buildings, and was a centre for the wool and cloth trade. In the English Civil War, it was besieged by Parliamentary forces and had to be relieved by Prince Rupert in a battle known as the Relief of Newark.
The estimated population in 2007 was 26,330, increasing to 27,700 at the 2011 census.

The origins of the town are possibly Roman due to its position on an important Roman road, the Fosse Way. In a document which purports to be a charter of 664, Newark is mentioned as having been granted to the Abbey of Peterborough by Wulfhere. An Anglo-Saxon pagan cemetery, used from the early 5th to the early 7th centuries, has been found in Millgate, in Newark, close to both the Fosse Way and the River Trent in which cremated remains were buried in pottery urns.
In the reign of Edward the Confessor Newark belonged to Godiva and her husband Leofric, Earl of Mercia, who granted it to the monastery of Stow in 1055, who retained its incomes even after the Norman Conquest when it came under the control of the Norman Bishop Remigius de Fécamp. After his death it changed to, and remained in the hands of, the Bishops of Lincoln from 1092 until the reign of Edward VI. There were burgesses in Newark at the time of the Domesday survey, and in the reign of Edward III, there is evidence that it had long been a borough by prescription. The Newark wapentake in the east of Nottinghamshire was established during the period of Anglo-Saxon rule (10th to 11th centuries AD).
Newark Castle "was originally a Saxon fortified manor house, founded by King Edward the Elder. In 1073, Robert Bloet, bishop of Lincoln founded an earthwork motte and bailey fortress on the site. From 1123–33, Bishop Alexander the Magnificent completely rebuilt the castle, when founding a prominent stone structure of ornate construction." The river bridge was built about the same time under charter from Henry I, also St. Leonard's Hospital. He also gained from the king a charter to hold a five-day fair at the castle each year. He gained a charter under King Stephen to establish a mint in the town.
The town became a local centre for the wool and cloth trade, certainly by the time of Henry II a major market was established. Wednesday and Saturday markets in the town were established during the period 1156–1329 when a series of charters granted to the Bishop of Lincoln made them possible. King John died of dysentery in Newark in 1216. Following his death as Henry III tried to bring order to the country the mercenary Robert de Gaugy refused to yield Newark Castle to the Bishop of Lincoln, its rightful owner, leading to the Dauphin of France (later King Louis VIII of France) laying an eight-day siege on behalf of the king, ended by an agreement to pay the mercenary to leave. Around the time of Edward III's death, and excluding beggars and clergy, in "1377 – Poll tax records show adult population of 1,178 making Newark one of the biggest 25 or so towns in England".
In 1457 a flood swept away the bridge over the Trent and, although there was no legal requirement for anyone to replace it, the Bishop of Lincoln, John Chaworth, financed the building of a new bridge, built of oak with stone defensive towers at either end.

Following the break with Rome in the 16th century, the subsequent establishment of the independent Church of England, and the Dissolution of the Monasteries, Henry VIII had the Vicar of Newark, Henry Lytherland executed when he refused to acknowledge the king as head of the Church. The dissolution affected Newark's political landscape heavily, and even more radical changes came in 1547 when the Bishop of Lincoln exchanged ownership of the town with the Crown. Newark was incorporated under an alderman and twelve assistants in 1549, and the charter was confirmed and extended by Elizabeth I.
Charles I, owing to the increasing commercial prosperity of the town, reincorporated it under a mayor and aldermen, and this charter, except for a temporary surrender under James II, continued to be the governing charter of the corporation until the Municipal Corporations Act 1835.

During the English Civil War, Newark was a mainstay of the royalist cause, Charles I having raised his standard in nearby Nottingham. It was attacked in February 1643 by two troops of horsemen, but beat them back. The town fielded at times as many as 600 soldiers, and raided Nottingham, Grantham, Northampton, Gainsborough, and others with mixed success, but enough to cause it to rise to national notice. At the end of 1644 it was besieged by forces from Nottingham, Lincoln and Derby, the siege was only relieved in March by Prince Rupert.
Parliament commenced a new siege towards the end of January 1645 following more raiding, but this was relieved by Sir Marmaduke Langdale after about a month. Newark cavalry fought with the king's forces which were decisively defeated in the Battle of Naseby, near Leicester in June 1645.
The final siege began in November 1645, by which time the town's defences had been greatly strengthened. Two major forts had been constructed just outside the town, one, called the Queen's Sconce, to the south-west and another, the King's Sconce to the north-east, both close to the river, together with defensive walls and a water filled ditch 2¼ miles in length, around the town. In May 1646 the town was ordered to surrender by Charles I, which was still only accepted under protest by the town's garrison. After the surrender most of the defences were destroyed, including the castle which was left in essentially the state it can be seen today.
Around 1770 the Great North Road around Newark (now the A1) was raised on a long series of arches to ensure it remained clear of the regular floods it experienced. A special Act of Parliament in 1773 allowed the creation of a town hall next to the Market Place. Designed by John Carr of York and completed in 1776, Newark Town Hall is now a Grade I listed building. In 1775 the Duke of Newcastle, at the time the Lord of the Manor and a major landowner of the area, built a new brick bridge with stone facing to replace the dilapidated one next to the castle. This is still one of the major thoroughfares in the town today.
A noted advocate of reform in the late 18th century at Newark was the local-born printer and newspaper owner Daniel Holt (1766–1799). He was imprisoned for printing a leaflet advocating parliamentary reform and selling a Thomas Paine pamphlet.
In the milieu of parliamentary reform the duke of Newcastle evicted over a hundred tenants at Newark whom he believed supported directly or indirectly the Liberal/Radical candidate (Wilde) rather than his candidate (Michael Sadler, a progressive Conservative)at the 1829 elections. See the report in Cornelius BROWN 1907, ii, 243 following; and the report in the Times for 7 October 1829. A report in the Times of 10 September 1832 lists ten of the evicted people by name and address.
J.S. Baxter, who was a schoolboy in Newark from 1830 to 1840, contributed to The hungry forties: life under the bread tax (London, 1904), a book about the Corn Laws: "Chartists and rioters came from Nottingham into Newark, parading the streets with penny loaves dripped in blood carried on pikes, crying 'Bread or blood.'"

During the Victorian era a lot of new buildings and industry were established, such as Independent Chapel (1822), Holy Trinity (1836–37), Christ Church (1837), Castle Railway Station (1846), Wesleyan Chapel (1846), the Corn Exchange (1848), Methodist New Connexion Chapel (1848), W.N. Nicholson Trent Ironworks (1840s), Northgate Railway Station (1851), North End Wesleyan Chapel (1868), St. Leonard's Anglican Church (1873), Baptist Chapel (1876), Primitive Methodist Chapel (1878), Newark Hospital (1881), Ossington Coffee Palace (1882), Gilstrap Free Library (1883), Market Hall (1884), Unitarian Chapel (1884), the Fire Station (1889), Waterworks (1898) and the School of Science and Art (1900). These changes and the other industrial expansion that went with them saw the population of the town grow from under 7,000 in 1800 to over 15,000 by the end of the century.

During the Second World War there were a number of RAF stations within a few miles of Newark, from many of which operated squadrons of the Polish Air Force. A special plot was set aside in Newark Cemetery for RAF burials and this is now the war graves plot, where all but ten of the ninety Commonwealth and all of the 397 Polish burials were made. The cemetery also contains 49 scattered burials from the First World War. A memorial cross to the Polish airmen buried here was erected in the plot and was unveiled in 1941 by President Raczkiewicz, ex-President of the Polish Republic and head of the wartime Polish Government in London, supported by General Sikorski, head of the Polish Armed Forces and wartime Polish Prime Minister. When both men subsequently died, General Sikorski in 1943 and President Raczkiewicz in 1947, they were buried at the foot of the memorial. General Sikorski's remains were returned to Poland in 1993, but there is still a memorial to him at Newark.
The clothing, bearings, pumps, agricultural machinery, pine furniture making and sugar refining were the main industries in Newark in the last 100 years or so. British Sugar still has one of its sugar beet processing factories to the north of the town near the A616 (Great North Road). There have been several factory closures, especially since the 1950s. Breweries in the town in the 20th century included James Hole and Warwicks-and-Richardsons.
Estimated population (mid-2007, via NSDC Stats & Info) is 26,330 for the Newark Parish. Newark is 93 per cent white British, according to the 2011 census. It is also prosperous: 77 per cent of people are employed, according to the latest ONS data, compared with the national average of 72 per cent, and earnings are 7 per cent above those in the surrounding East Midlands.

Newark's history makes it a great place to visit and I was very keen to see what it had to offer the seasoned ale drinker. It was a beautiful Wednesday when I got the train from Nottingham and arrived in Newark roughly half an hour later. I'd visited the town a couple of times before so knew my way around the periphery of the train station and market place area. Upon leaving Newark Castle station, I knew that my first stop wasn't far away. I crossed the bridge over the River Trent and immediately spotted it, moored on the river itself, the Castle Barge.

Originally a Spillers grain barge plying its trade from Hull to Gainsborough, it was converted into a pub in 1980 and is now moored in the shadow of Newark's famous ruined castle where it is a mainstay of the local pub scene. The outside area includes an outdoor drinking area with a gangplank that allows access to the barge itself. The upper floor is a seating area with the bar down a flight of stairs. As well as the bar, the lower deck still contains many original features from its previous life including the ship's wheel. The bar is tucked into a corner of the long narrow room and this features 4 handpulls, 3 of which are in use during my visit. My first beer choice of the day is between Milestone American Pale Ale, Milestone Hop & Glory and Full Mash Planchette Porter. I opted for the Hop & Glory (4.2%), a delicious light golden ale brewed with New World hops. It's crisp, delicious and an excellent start to the day. I took a seat on a low bench next to the bar and perused the surroundings, which also features a lot of old brewery memorabilia. The soundtrack also caught my attention here as I was treated to Dire Straits 'Sultans of Swing' followed by Eagles 'Hotel California'. Not a bad start at all!

I was determined to do my best to make the most of the spring weather and so I decided to head on to my next destination. Originally, I had intended to make the Royal Oak my next stop however, upon entering, the not-unfriendly Northern Irish landlord informed me that he no longer sold real ale. He was nice enough to direct me to the pub next door, where he said that they usually had 'about 7 on'. That was how I ended up at The Ram.

Standing on the site once occupied by a 15th century coaching inn, the building that is now The Ram is a Georgian structure dating to the 18th century. The premises stood empty for many years but has recently been refurbished and rejuvenated, retaining the Georgian elegance with a bespoke and upmarket twist to the interior. The hard work has clearly paid off as pub is very nice indeed. Original Georgian features have been given a modern update in lots of elegant leather furniture, a long well-stocked bar and a large outside area kitted out with round picnic tables. The landlord at the Royal Oak is certainly no liar as I was greeted by 8 handpulls. 2 of these featured real ciders in the form of Thatcher's Big Apple and Barnstormer Pickled Pig. The ale choice is good and I'm left to decide between Flipside Random Toss, Flipside Flipping Best, London Pride, Newark Phoenix, Newark Winter Gold and Cathedral Heights Churchill's Pride Bitter. Unfamiliar with Newark Brewery, I decided on a pint of the Phoenix (4.8%). This is an amber/russet coloured beer with mountains of hops that lift up a deep malt sweetness without being overly bitter. I went and sat outside to enjoy this beer, basking in the warm spring sunshine on what was a lovely day. Summer is definitely in the air and I'm very much looking forward to more time spent in beer gardens with a pint or 6.

My next destination wasn't too much further away and I was excited to get there as it was one of the pubs that I'd highlighted as a must visit whilst I was in the area. Situated down a side street and tucked between some shops, is the Prince Rupert.

Named after the reliever of the siege of Newark, the Prince Rupert was originally built in 1452 and still stands strong on its original timber frame following an 18 month renovation by KNEAD Pubs, who now operate the property. The results of this excellent restoration are impressive, with an internal conservatory, half a dozen dining areas, separated by partition walls, a terraced beer garden, a beautifully decked out bar and a hidden venue upstairs that can be hired out. The aforementioned bar is well stocked for ale drinkers too, as it includes 6 handpulls offering a wide variety: Brain's Reverend James, North Yorkshire Flying Herbert, Cathedral Gold, Oakham JHB, Oldershaw Grantham Dark and Bridestone's Whirley Gig. I went for a pint of Flying Herbert (4.7%), a traditional bitter with a slight toffee aroma and roast malt taste but balanced with fruity berries and hops to balance the strong fruitiness. I found a table in the conservatory at which to enjoy this tasty pint, which was recommended by a very helpful and knowledgeable barman. The atmosphere and feel of the pub is fantastic and it's worth every penny that has no doubt been spent on it. Well done to all those at the Prince Rupert for keeping an important part of Newark's heritage alive and kicking!

It was back out onto the main road now and my next destination was just a little bit further along and one of the few pubs in Newark that I've visited in the past. Yet another pub to benefit substantially from a refurbishment, I had arrived at the Flying Circus.

Reopened in 2014, the Flying Circus has risen from the ashes of the building's previous incarnation as the Crown & Mitre. This is the only pub I've ever seen that is Monty Python themed (hence the name) and the walls are adorned with Python quotes and memorabilia, including a fake stuffed Norwegian Blue parrot. The pub has a strong local reputation for craft beer, including Brewdog, and the bar features 8 handpulls, 4 of which are in use when I'm there. Amongst the 4 are some interesting choices namely Falstaff DNA, Twickenham Grandstand, Abstract Casual and Great Newsome Hops in Spring. I wasn't over familiar with any of these beers so it was very much pot luck. DNA eventually won me over and it proved a good choice. At 4.2% and brewed by Falstaff of Derby, this is a pale amber beer with fruity herbal aromas, rich fruit and hop flavours and a long, well-hopped aftertaste. Pulling up a stool at one of the nearby high tables, I was having a very good day so far and I was excited for it to continue. The music at this pub was decent too as I finally got to hear the new Radiohead single and I can confirm that it's very good indeed!

Speaking of very good indeed, I knew what to expect from my next stop and I was aware that it would be excellent. Opposite the Flying Circus, down a pathway, lies the local micropub, simply known as Just Beer.

Concentrating on real ale, ciders and perries, Just Beer opened in 2010 and prides itself on serving interesting ales from local breweries and breweries all over the world. Awarded CAMRA Newark Pub of the Year in 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2016, it reached the milestone of 3000 beers from 1000 different breweries in February this year. This is a small, uncomplicated pub situated in an old warehouse near the river. They offer good conversation, traditional pub games and 3 annual beer festivals! On the small bar in the back corner of the room are 8 handpulls, 7 of which were in use offering a great variety: Milestone Southern Cross, Driftwood Spars Forest Blond, 4Ts English Stout, Bradford Alphin's Black IPA and 3 real ciders (Lilley's Apples and Pears, Lilley's Lemon and Lime, Thatcher's Cheddar Valley). I'm always intrigued by black IPAs so it didn't take me long to decide which beer I wanted. At 5.6%, Alphin's Black IPA packs a hell of a punch, with complex malts and heady aromas combining to produce a big, hoppy finish. The name comes from that of the head brewer's son. Whilst I can't pretend to understand what a black IPA is or how it works, I can easily see why the style has such an appeal. There are big flavours here. Not for the faint hearted!

Leaving this wonderful place seemed a shame but there were other treats in store and my next location gave me a rare opportunity to complete the itinerary of every one of a specific company's pubs. The company in question is Blue Monkey and I completed the set with my visit to Newark's own Organ Grinder.

Previously known as the Horse & Gears, this pub was reopened by Blue Monkey in 2014 as another addition to its portfolio. This is very much a no-nonsense beer drinking pub, which is fine with me, and I'm a big fan of Blue Monkey beers as I'm sure I've mentioned in previous entries. Of the 7 handpulls, 5 were in use and, as expected, they all featured Blue Monkey beers, namely Mild Monkey, Guerrilla, Bonobo, Right Turn Clyde and Infinity. I went for the Right Turn Clyde which was, as always, in excellent condition. These are the kinds of pubs that I will come to again and again. There isn't really any reason not too!

I did get slightly lost upon leaving the Organ Grinder but, after half an hour of catching my bearings, I was back on the right track and on my way to my next stop which, to my surprise, turned out to be a Castle Rock pub. I was happy to have found the Fox and Crown.

Standing on the site of what was originally two shops, the Fox and Crown is Castle Rock's resurrection of the previously closed down Fox & Crown. Now open for 16 years, the pub offers great beer and great service in a friendly and comfortable environment. The bar is located in the left hand corner of the main room and boasts 10 handpulls, 8 of which were in use. Amongst the Castle Rock offerings of Midnight Owl, Harvest Pale and Elsie Mo, were a number of guests, specifically Abbeydale Double Brimstone, Sunny Republic Dune Raider, Oldershaw Ascalon, Abstract Casual and Lincoln Green Archer. I was won over by the Dune Raider (5%), a bitter sweet paradox of sweet malts and punchy American hops. This beer is certainly a mixture of styles being part Vienna amber lager, part English brown and part American brown ale. It's an interesting mix but it definitely works!

I had time for one more pub before it was time to get the train home so it was an opportunity for the somewhat obligatory trip to a local Wetherspoons, this one being the Sir John Arderne.

Named after the first 'true English surgeon' who lived in Newark during 1349-1370, this is an imposing looking building. Arderne himself became particularly adept at treating haemorrhoids, a condition commonly affecting Medieval knights due to long hours spent on horseback in heavy armour. He had achieved the status of 'master surgeon' by the end of his life. The bar is situated at the back of the room and there is ample seating throughout as well as the standard issue upstairs toilets. 10 handpulls reside on the bar, during my visit featuring, Abbot Ale (x2), Ruddles (x2), London Pride, Doom Bar, Old Rosie cider, Nottingham Old Special, Brakspear Oxford Gold and Milestone IPA. For my last beer of the day, I went for a pint of the Old Special, accompanied by a burger as I decided it was finally time to eat. The beer was very nice indeed, smooth and well balanced with a dry finish. It complimented the burger very well and both went down very easily indeed.

I was tired and full now and the day was drawing to a close. All that was needed was to make my way to the nearby train station for the journey. This turned out to be more easily said than done as my train was subject to unspecified delay which meant that it was nearly half an hour late arriving. Still, I made it home eventually happy that it was a job well done for the day. Newark did not disappoint. My suspicions about its real ale credentials were well founded as there wasn't a single pub on my trip that let me down. I cannot recommend a visit here enough, especially given all of the pubs that I did not get time to visit. Newark looks set to be a place to watch, where the real ale revival is very much in full swing. A place where much now exists from where little stood before. Things in this town are moving in a wonderful direction.

 

Village Pride

I've always had a soft spot for village pubs, not just for their appearance and their atmosphere but their immense sense of community values and their emphasis on looking after their own and benefiting the people they serve. To that end, last week, I decided to more closely investigate two villages that are very close to where I live. Considering the beautiful spring weather that I had been granted on this particular day off, I honestly didn't think I could have picked a better day to explore the neighbouring villages of Gotham and East Leake.
The easiest way to reach my intended destination was by bus, which I can conveniently catch from a bus stop a few minutes work from home. After a few minutes wait and a few confusing moments over the fare, I was on my way to the first stop, in the closer village of Gotham, whose name may ring bells with some of you.

Gotham is a village in Nottinghamshire, England, with a population of about 1,600, measured at 1,563 in the 2011 census. It is in the borough of Rushcliffe, and has a parish council.
The name Gotham comes from the Old English for "goat home". The village has a 12th-century church dedicated to the Roman martyr Saint Lawrence.
The village is most famed for the stories of the "Wise Men of Gotham". These depict the people of the village as being stupid. However, the reason for the behaviour is believed to be that the villagers wished to feign madness in order to avoid a Royal Highway being built through the village, as they would then be expected to build and maintain this route. Madness was believed at the time to be highly contagious, and when King John's knights saw the villagers behaving as if insane, the knights swiftly withdrew and the King's road was re-routed to avoid the village.
One of the mad deeds seen by the knights was a group of villagers fencing off a small tree in order to keep a cuckoo captive from the Sheriff of Nottingham. One of the three pubs in the village is known as the "Cuckoo Bush Inn". They were also observed attempting to fish a reflection of the moon from the bottom of a pond, painting green apples red and trying to drown eels.
Reminded of the foolish ingenuity of Gotham's residents, Washington Irving gave the name "Gotham" to New York City in his Salmagundi Papers (1807). In turn, Bill Finger named the pastiche New York home of Batman, Gotham City. The existence of Gotham, Nottinghamshire in the DC Universe was recently acknowledged in Batman: Legends of the Dark Knight No. 206 (and again in 52 No. 27), although the connection between two names within the DCU has not been fully explained. In a story titled 'Cityscape' in Batman Chronicles No. 6 it is revealed that Gotham was initially built for the purpose of housing the criminally insane, and Robin reads a journal that tells of how Gotham got its name; "I even have a name for it. We could call it 'Gotham' after a village in England – where, according to common belief, all are bereft of their wits."
Responding to the connection between the Gotham in Nottinghamshire and Gotham for New York City, former New York mayor Rudolph Giuliani wrote that it was "a pleasure to have this opportunity to acknowledge the cultural and historical link" between the two places.

The Batman connection has always intrigued me ever since I heard the story so I was very much looking forward to what the pubs in the village potentially had to offer. The bus journey to Gotham is a short one and the first pub has a bus stop nearby making it very easy to determine where I needed to get off. My first stop in this historic village was The Star Inn.

This is a deceptively spacious three storey building on the main road through the village. The narrow entrance gives way to an open plan layout with lots of original features including wooden flooring and exposed beams. This layout is broken up by pillars and leads backwards to a patio and a large garden. The bar is to the right of the door and has 5 handpulls. The choice is interesting offering on this occasion Marston's Pedigree, Wadworth 6X, Star Inn St. George's, Doom Bar and Sharp's Atlantic. There is also a dart board, a TV and a pool table in the pub and I was very impressed to see that the TV was showing Scuzz! Always a good start to the day! I decided to start with something quite light and opted for the Atlantic. It was bright, summery and fresh, definitely reflecting the weather outside and tasted superb! I took a seat on a bench facing the door, with the bar on my left. It was quiet in the pub and I was one of only two customers in the pub at the time. I didn't mind though as I was hoping for a nice relaxing afternoon. The Star certainly has the feel of a traditional village pub and despite the lack of people in the pub, I felt very welcomed by the staff and happy to be here. My pint went down a tad too easily so I was ready to head down to my next destination.

Further into the village, not too far from the Church of St. Lawrence, was the next stop on the day's itinerary, the aforementioned Cuckoo Bush Inn.

 

This large, brick building was built in 1858 and takes its name from the story of the 'Wise Fools of Gotham' who built a fence around a bush to prevent a cuckoo from flying away. It was recorded in 1876 as a public house under publican Joseph Talbot. Inside, the pub is separated into 3 separate rooms: a lounge bar, a snug and a lounge/dining area. There is a low ceiling with traditional wooden beams still evident. I entered the pub from the entrance on the main road which leads directly into the main lounge area. The Cuckoo Bush is much busier than my previous stop as it is full with local residents enjoying their lunch. I took a seat on a stool at one side of the bar that serves both the dining area and the smaller bar and snug, with a dividing wall in between. The bar I'm sat at features 3 handpulls, offering Bass, Castle Rock Harvest Pale and Fuller's London Pride. I decided to try the London Pride, which was very well kept. I took my time here as I enjoyed my beer, to soak up the atmosphere of the pub. There was a friendly hustle and bustle around me and everybody seemed to be enjoying the food. I noticed something quite unusual behind the bar. I think this is the only village pub I've ever been in to sell spirits in 35ml measures as opposed to the standard 25ml. I also noticed that there were labels stuck to every spirit bottle and every fridge with prices on each one. I assume that this is because the till was an older model and, presumably, somebody got a label maker for Christmas. The Cuckoo Bush is certainly a very comfortable pub in which to while away some time in this particular part of the world.

There was one pub left to visit in Gotham before my journey continued in neighbouring East Leake. That pub is tucked just around the corner and is one that I've heard an awful lot of positive reports about. I made my way now to The Sun Inn.
 

This traditional two-roomed pub is opposite St. Lawrence's Church with a main entrance leading to smaller entrances to each side of the pub. The origin of the name is uncertain but it is thought to stem from an episode in the story of the 'Wise Men of Gotham' where wagons were dragged over wood in a barn to protect it from the sun. The public bar offers darts and dominoes whilst the lounge bar, where I ended up, houses the dining area. The pub holds regular Locale beer festivals and was a runner up in a national cellar competition in 2013. The Sun is owned and operated by Everards brewery so it's no surprise to see the quantity of good beer on offer. Across 9 handpulls, the pub offers the following on my visit: Everards Beacon (x 2), Ascalon, Tiger (x 2), Sunchaser and Original as well as Weston's Old Rosie (x 2). Having never had it before, I thought the Ascalon was worthy of a try. This 4% chestnut ale is named after the sword of St. George and brewed in honour of St. George's Day. Brewed with Admiral and Challenger hops, the ale is zesty with orange flavours complimented with chocolate, earthy aromas leaving a well rounded finish. It's definitely a delicious brew and enjoyed even more in my surroundings, which features many more artefacts and articles from the village's past, including the infamous Wise Men. Soon enough, however, it was time to venture onwards and continue my trip. First, a quick toilet stop was needed. This was interesting in itself as it meant leaving the lounge bar through the rear, crossing the car park and entering the other side of building with the gents situated off of the public bar. The trip was worth it for the Batman comic memorabilia on the toilet wall though.

Following a walk through the village to kill time until the bus arrived, I was finally on my way to East Leake, determined to see the contrast between two villages in such close proximity.
East Leake  is a large village and civil parish in the Rushcliffe district of Nottinghamshire, England, although its closest town and postal address is Loughborough across the border in Leicestershire. It has a population of around 7,000, measured in the 2011 Census as 6,337. The original village was located on the Sheepwash Brook. Kingston Brook also runs through the village. Near the centre of the village is the historic St. Mary's Church, which dates back to the 11th century. The church has six bells.
One of the earliest mentions of East Leake is in the Domesday book recorded as 'Leche.' The name comes from the Anglo-Saxon word meaning wet land, since the village lies on the Kingston Brook, a tributary of the River Soar.
British Gypsum, a plasterboard manufacturer, has its headquarters in the village. The manufacturing of plasterboard began in this area in about 1880.
The origin of Leake appears to be Laeke (Old Norse — brook or stream), and is consistent with East Leake's position in the heart of the Danelaw, which had various forms over time before becoming "Leake".

Disembarking the bus at the centre of the village, I had already identified my final destination which didn't open until later in the day, so my task was locating the other pubs on my list as per my plan for the afternoon. To begin with, I went left down the main street through the village where, after a short walk I found the first pub was looking for, on the opposite side of the road. Having the appearance of being recently refurbished, I had high hopes for the Bull's Head.

Recorded as a public house in 1855 under T. Hallam, the Bull's Head has retained many interesting features throughout its two rooms, particularly in the lounge which features exposed timber, low beams and a well decorated interior, with lots of pub memorabilia. Entering through the main door, I almost went left until I spotted a group of people dressed in black and a buffet table, which suggested a wake was taking place. I then went right into the other room, which was deserted apart from one member of staff. A perusal of the bar didn't take long. Located in the centre so as to serve both sides of the pub, the bar holds 6 handpulls, although just 2 of these are in use during my visit, both featuring Theakston's Best. This is very well kept despite my initial reservations and goes down very easily indeed.

Next up, I retraced my steps and headed deeper into this very picturesque village, eventually arriving at the next pub on my list, the Nag's Head.

Recorded as a public house under B. Hutchinson in 1855, the Nag's Head is now operated by Punch Taverns. Internally, there is a pool table in one room and more comfortable seating in another multi-level room. There is an attractive rear garden and the staff were very helpful and friendly whilst I was there. The bar runs along the wall opposite the main entrance and boasts 5 handpulls, 2 of which were in use. Given a choice between Pedigree and Harvest Pale, I opted for the stronger Pedigree which was very nice indeed. This is a very quiet, village pub which is no bad thing at all on a Wednesday afternoon and I was thoroughly enjoying my day thus far.

My next destination was situated at the far end of the village and included crossing the Kingston Brook over a small road bridge. Another recently refurbished premises in the area, I had now reached the Three Horseshoes.


The pub was built in 1963-4 for Home Brewery on the site of an earlier pub of the same name, which could be dated back to 1832 under licensed victualler John Hardy. The name apparently derives from an even earlier use of the site as a smithy. Refurbished in late 2015, this updating of the premises has sadly destroyed a significant amount of a largely 1960's interior which CAMRA rated as a being an Historic Interior of some Regional Importance on its Regional Inventory. The opening-up of the pub has replaced the original three-room layout, which had a lobby and toilets area, leading onto a large Public Bar, whilst to the rear there was a Small Lounge to the centre left and a Large Lounge to the rear. The smaller lounge was known as the "Penny Lounge" because beer was originally a penny more here than in the Public Bar, whilst beer in the larger lounge was tuppence a pint more. The Public Bar had an original bar front and back and some original fixed seating, the Penny Lounge some original panelling, counter fronts and fixed seating, with a three part door through to the Large Lounge, which also had original panelling, counter fronts and a Tudor style fireplace, possibly from elsewhere. As a result of the 2015 refurbishment, the Three Horseshoes no longer has an historic interior and CAMRA has removed the Three Horseshoes from its Regional Inventory. Whilst I can't say I agree with the removal of an historic pub interior in an era when a lot of historic, traditional pubs are falling by the wayside, the Three Horseshoes has at least retained some character without being completely soulless. The bar is L shaped and features 4 handpulls, all in use and offering Harvest Pale and Theakston's XB, both doubled up. The XB is very smooth and tasty and an excellent choice at this stage of the day. I took a seat near the bar, taking advantage of the light coming through the large front windows and let my beer go down. I can't help but wonder how this would have tasted in the surroundings of a 1960s interior but hindsight is a wonderful thing and effectively useless now.

I had one pub left to go and it was one that I'd been looking forward to all day. This is the destination that I mentioned getting off the bus near and which I had had no choice but to leave until last due it not opening until 5. Once again retracing my steps, I arrived, 10 minutes after opening, at the Round RobINN.

Opened in October 2015, this wonderful micropub occupies what was once a betting office roughly in the centre of the village. The seating is a mixture of chairs, cushioned benches and high stools, accommodating a total of 45 patrons at any one time. The pub was recently crowned CAMRA Village Pub of the Year 2016 for Nottingham, a cracking achievement for a premises that's been open for only a few months. It's clear to see that the title is deserved though. 8 beers, served direct from the cask by gravity, are racked behind the small bar. 5 of these are ready and available when I visit, giving me a choice of Blue Monkey 99 Red Baboons, Blue Monkey Guerrilla, Shiny Cathedral Ale, Exit 33 Club 33 #5 and Raw Amarillo. There are also 5 real ciders served directly from the box available too! I opted for the Club 33 #5, brewed by Sheffield based Exit 33. This is a delicious golden ale at 5% and is part of the Club 33 program, a series of small batch brews concocted by this up and coming brewery. It's a welcome way to end the day and I am joined in the pub by a number of smartly dressed people, apparently from another wake, although I quickly determined that this may be the same as the one at the Bull's Head as the pubs are only a short distance apart.

With my final pint now finished, it was now time to cross the road back to the bus stop for the short trip back home. What had I learned from my visit to Gotham and East Leake? I learned the importance of well run, community driven village pubs and the reasons why these must be protected. I learned that good pubs are about more than good beer but also about the sense of community and belonging that they create. I learned that village buses aren't cheap! But, most importantly, I learned that good ale can be found in places outside of cities and large towns. Villages can boast some excellent pubs. Don't just let the words in these blog entries convince you. Get off the beaten track and see for yourself!

An Ale-way Station

In the rare position of having a Bank Holiday Saturday off work, due to returning from a wedding down south, I decided to make the most of a free afternoon to return to a place that still ranks amongst the best locations ever visited for this blog. Derby is still flying the flag for real ale in the East Midlands so a return trip was overdue. On this occasion, instead of a general venture around the city centre and the better known pubs, I aimed for pubs in a specific area, this time focusing my search around the train station. The ease of the location and the close proximity of some interesting sounding premises cemented my decision to see what was on offer. Having made it safely to Nottingham Station and purchasing my ticket, I boarded the next train and, a swift 20 minutes later, arrived in the neighbouring city tinged with excitement and anticipation.

It was mid-afternoon when I arrived and the weather was unsettled but I wasn't about to let Spring showers upset my day. Conveniently, my first location on this week's itinerary, was directly opposite the main exit from the station. Located in a grand Victorian building, which is part of Railway Terrace, is the Waterfall.

 
This massive building benefits significantly from an open plan layout, with a central horseshoe-shaped bar and a number of seating areas throughout the room. A door to the rear leads to an American-style pool lounge and there is a large function room that is regularly used for wedding receptions and the like. The interior is a mix of the original features and modern additions, giving it an impressive and imposing feel. The bar includes 4 handpulls, half of which are in use during my visit, both featuring Doom Bar. I broke with tradition slightly here when I noticed that the bar also included a range of bottled beers namely: Jennings Cumberland, Shepherd Neame Spitfire, Shepherd Neame Master Brew, Wychwood Hobgoblin and 3 from the range produced by the Guinness Brewers Project, specifically Guinness Pale Ale, Dublin Porter and West Indies Porter. I wouldn't normally buy bottled ale from a pub but I'm a firm believer in giving it a go so I opted for a bottle of Spitfire. I moved over to a small, raised area with some leather bucket chairs and took a seat, occasionally glancing at the televised coverage of the epic clash between Burton and Oldham. The Spitfire was as good as I'd come to expect from the bottled version so I was relatively pleased with my decision.

The handy thing about the route I had planned for the day was the close proximity between the different venues that I'd earmarked for a visit. My next such stop was just around the corner and I was very excited to experience it as I'd heard many excellent things and I knew that I was unlikely to be disappointed. Renowned locally and recently named CAMRA Derby Pub of the Year for 2016, is the Brunswick Inn.

Situated at the apex of what is known as the 'railway triangle', the Brunswick Inn was built in 1841 by the North Midland Railway Company, along with 80 cottages and a local store. Designed by Francis Thompson, it the form of a 4 storey triangular building with 2 of the floors being underground. Georgian in its design, it is one of, if not the earliest example of a purpose built commercial inn in the country. The area was designed as a self-contained community and the Inn traded continually as well as a public house, as well as offering accommodation, until April 1974. It was shut and left to fall into disrepair and, along with the cottages, was marked for demolition. Yet public outcry at the planned demolition forced the council to reconsider and, after protracted negotiations, the Derby Historic Buildings Trust convinced the local council to sell the buildings to the Trust for renovation. The shell renovations were completed in 1982, where upon the Historic Building Trust ran out of funding and the work on the interior could not be completed. The building again hung in the balance, until in 1987 local businessmen saw the potential for The Brunswick and purchased it from the Trust. Work on the building began straight away and, on the 3rd October 1987, The Brunswick reopened as a public house and has remained so ever since. The Inn and the cottages are now protected under Grade II listed status. In 2001, the Inn was purchased by Everards Brewery, who still own it, and is currently leased to Alan Pickersgill and Phillippe Larroche, both of whom are award winning licensees.  
Early in 1990 construction was started on an extension to give the Brunswick Inn back its original capacity to produce its own beer.
A traditional tower style brewery built over three levels, great care was taken to keep the brewery in keeping with the history of the Inn, with lines of windows and stonework following through into the extension.
The plant itself was installed in April 1991, and on the 11th June 1991 production of Brunswick Brewing Company beer began. The brewery has a brew length of 10 imperial barrels (16.36Hl), and a maximum production of approximately 1000 imperial barrels per year.
The brewery produces beer not only for The Brunswick Inn, but also for Everards, as well as the local free trade and beer festivals. Over the years the Brunswick Brewing Company has established itself up and down the country, and has collected many awards for its ale, from local festival awards to national recognition.
The brewery is currently under the stewardship of long-time head brewer James Salmon, who along with the pubs tenants, are working to maintain the Brunswick Inn and Brewing Company as one of the premier brew pubs in the country.

The outward charm of the pub is maintained inside with lots period features, photos of the local area and lots of old brewery and beer memorabilia. The bar is relatively small and tucked into a corner of a small lounge, divided from the dining area by a number of glass and wood partition walls. The pub is brimming with a wonderful, chilled atmosphere. The bar has a massive 16 handpulls, 15 of which are in use whilst I'm there. There is certainly a lot of choice from amongst the following: Winning Post Twyford Sleeper, Winning Post Tully Bitter, Gold Course Hoptical Illusion, Oakham JHB, Stratford Stratford Gold, Everards Old Original, Everards Beacon, Everards Tiger and Brunswick's own Platform 2B, Rocket, Black Sabbath, Railway Porter, The Usual, White Feather and Triple Hop. I decided, after much deliberation, that I would go for a pint of Rocket (4.7%). This is a pale, IPA style beer, heavily dry hopped with a multitude of New World hops to give pleasant citrus and apricot flavours. It's a very delicious beer indeed and it's easy to see that The Brunswick's Pub of the Year title is well deserved. The beer is wonderfully kept and perfectly brewed, which is not surprising given that Brunswick is Derby's oldest surviving brewery. I could easily have stayed here all afternoon but there were more pubs to visit and more beers to drink so it was, sadly, time to move on.

A bit further down the road, and slightly round the corner, was my next destination. Opposite the railway line is Castle Rock's only pub in Derby, The Alexandra Hotel.

The Alexandra was built around 1890 and is named after the Danish princess who married the then Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) in 1863. The bar is now adorned with railway memorabilia (including an old station digital clock) and the lounge with breweriana as a reminder of the local heritage. The pub was the birthplace of Derby CAMRA in 1974 and has won awards in previous years, being crowned Pub of the Year in 2015 and runner-up in 2011. Inside, the pub has the traditional atmosphere and ambience of a Castle Rock venue with 9 handpulls, 8 of which are in use at the time that I'm there. One of these is given over to Old Rosie cider whilst the others all offer ale, specifically Mallinson's Chinook, Holden's Black Country Mild and the rest all being Castle Rock, namely Pilot's Wings, Harvest Pale, Midnight Owl, Screech Owl and Trent Vale Reserve. I opted for Pilot's Wings, a special edition brew made to commemorate the centenary of the First World War. This particular one is the 6th in the series and has been brewed in memory of Albert Ball, a Nottingham-born fighter pilot who became the first man during the Great War to be awarded 3 Distinguished Services Awards. He was awarded the Victoria Cross one month after his death at the age of 20. The beer itself is a hoppy pale ale with aromas of citrus and pine and an upfront bitterness, wrapped in an ABV of 5%. It's a very good beer and fitting tribute to a local legend.

My next stop was a little bit further away but still not too much of a walk and a stone's throw from the Derby Intu shopping centre. It was time for the almost obligatory trip to a Wetherspoons, if for no other reason than to use up some of my CAMRA vouchers. This particular one is the Babington Arms.

 

The site now occupied by the Babington Arms was once part of the gardens immediately behind the long-demolished Babbington House. This 17th Century mansion was once home to the Babbington family, whose coat of arms depicted two baboons on a large beer or wine cask. Inside, the layout is standard Wetherspoons with a long bar down one side of the room, a myriad of seating and toilets (as per usual) on a separate floor. My visit has handily coincided with the Wetherspoons ale festival, running until the end of the month. This means even more of a range than normal, which is always a massive plus. The Babington Arms boasts 18 handpulls, all but one of which is in use. Alongside the standard Spoons offerings of Pedigree, Abbot Ale, Ruddles and Doom Bar, is a varied choice that throws up the following: Sandford Orchards Pear Shaped, No. 18 Yard Hog Island, Small World Thunderbridge Stout, Small World Twin Falls, Small World Long Moor Pale, Devil's Backbone Bravo Four Point, Rudgate Ruby Mild, Otter Otter Fusion, Inveralmond Amber Bead, Orkney Norseman, Falstaff Bluebird, Mordue Wheat and Pheasantry Best Bitter. This was again a place where deliberation was required but I finally decided upon a pint of Norseman, a lovely summer ale, brewed with Maris Otter hops, giving a lively beer with a refreshing grapefruit and floral character. At only 4.4%, it's also very drinkable. The pub is very busy, this being a Saturday, so I end up leaning on one of the small drinking shelves situated opposite the bar. This isn't a bad thing as it means I can people watch and take in the atmosphere.

The Babington Arms is the furthest pub from my starting point so I now began my journey back in the direction of the station. The next pub on my agenda is in more or less a straight line from here, opposite the corner of the aforementioned a shopping centre. Sat astride the corner of a busy traffic junction is the Royal Telegraph.

Originally quite a small pub, it was built in the 1820s and named after a stage coach that ran from London to Manchester. The 'Royal' was soon dropped from the name and it was known as the Telegraph for many years. A road widening scheme took place in 1936 and the owners of the pub expanded the premises, buying out the neighbouring pub, the Prince of Wales, and two shops. The pub was then rebuilt with a long, curving frontage and an entrance at either end, a design that it still retains. It was reopened in 1937. Further internal alterations were carried out in the 1980s by Mansfield Breweries and it was renamed St. Trinian's but the name only lasted for 3 years. In 1986, the name was changed to Strutt's a name it retained until fairly recently when Marston's took the premises over and reverted to the original name. Internally, the long bar curves around the front of the pub and the space is broken up into smaller spaces for more intimate dining and drinking. One end is primarily for eating, with the far end given over to pool tables, fruit machines and darts. The middle section is a more traditional lounge bar style area. The bar includes 4 handpulls featuring Pedigree, Marston's Longer Days, Hobgoblin and Ringwood Boondoggle. I always feel a certain sentimentality for Ringwood beers so it was an easy choice for me when I selected Boondoggle, which was in excellent condition. I took some time, whilst I was enjoying my beer, to watch some of the England v Sri Lanka T20 cricket and simultaneously trying not to engage in conversation with the cricket fan on the neighbouring table.

I had 2 more pubs left on my route for the day and these were within easy walking distance of both the Royal Telegraph and the train station itself. Next up, was the aptly named Station Inn.

Situated on the busy Midland Road, the pub is approximately 250 metres from the train station. The large front room has a traditional bar and there is a pool room/function room to the rear. 2 of the 4 handpulls are in use, providing a choice between Draught Bass and Marston's New World. I decided to give the Bass a go and was then asked a question that I've never been asked before. I was given the option of Bass from the pump or direct from a large jug behind the bar. I realised quickly that this must be a good option as I could see no reason why they would offer it otherwise. Evidently the pub is famed for this unique serving method and, if I'm honest, the taste difference from the jug was noticeable and certainly added a rather tasty flavour to the beer. It's definitely something worth trying.

One pub left now and it was almost exactly back to where my journey had begun. Adjacent to the Waterfall is a pub that comes with an excellent reputation for live music and boasts a Cask Marque accreditation plaque outside the door. This boded well on first glance as I entered the Victoria Inn.

The Victoria Inn has a bar tucked into one corner of a lounge like layout with a couple of round tables and benches in two separate areas with a performance area and toilets to the rear. The bar holds 6 handpulls. How many of them were in use? None. Nada. Zip. Zero. I can only assume that the lines were being cleaned or that the pub doesn't serve real ale when there is music on through some misplaced assumption that rock fans don't like ale. I beg to differ! The one saving grace was that they at least sold bottles of Doom Bar and Hobgoblin. I went for the latter and sat at the bar having a bit of a sulk that the Cask Marque plaque seemed misplaced. I'm prepared to be proven wrong so another investigation at a later date may be in order. I know that I'd had bottled ale earlier in the day but this was at least in a venue that had at least one real ale on draught as advertised.

Despite my disappointment in the last venue, my day had been rather productive. Derby has once again proven that, whilst not all the venues are anything to write home about, the vast majority are maintaining some excellent standards of real ale. Derby is still very much the place to beat locally for real ale and whilst it continues to fly the flag, it will be very hard to beat. The ease with which it is to get to and the range and quantity of pubs that exist in close proximity to the train station make it a must for an afternoon trip, if just to have a wander around somewhere different. Improvement needed? Some, in this particular area of the city, but there are some absolute gems here too. Well done to the Brunswick Inn and the Alexandra Hotel for their numerous awards and the effort they continue to show. Overall, Derby is the place to get some decent ale down you!