Monday, April 27, 2015

And Back to Bristol........

For the second day of my recent meet up with Matt, we once again ventured into the madness of Bristol, with the intention of visiting some further venues that we had not yet run our eyes and taste buds over. The day started strangely. I succumbed to a sudden, inexplicable 5 minutes of projectile vomiting which I still can't really explain. Matt and I had both eaten the same food more or less the day before and I woke up hangover free and feeling completely fine. Straight afterwards I felt completely fine again. I'm inclined to blame it on a suspicious sandwich at the train station in Nottingham the day before. With this incident behind me, we set out for a bus journey into Bristol city centre. Arriving before the pubs opened, we began our day with a trek up to the Avon Gorge and the magnificent Clifton Suspension Bridge, something I can now cross off of my list of 'Things to See in the West Country'. The weather was excellent again, a fine Spring day with temperatures in the high teens and bright sunshine, making Brunel's fabulous structure look all the more brooding and impressive. This imposing structure is made more so by the sightings of disembodied shades drifting around the area, believed to be the spirits of those who have taken their own lives by leaping from the bridge. I've also become aware since my visit of a legend associated with the construction of the Avon Gorge. The legend goes thus: To prove themselves worthy of the lady Avona's love, the giant brothers Vincent and Goram raced to dig a ditch in order to drain a lake. Goram started work but fell asleep digging the Hazel Brook Gorge, while Vincent dug the Avon Gorge, thereby draining the unwanted lake and winning the lady Avona's heart.

An intriguing legend I think you'll agree and one typical of those used to explain the presence of gorges and river valleys across the UK and elsewhere since ancient times. Anyway, less of the giants for now and on to the exploring. The walk back from the Bridge was considerably easier than the walk up, largely due to being downhill and we began our day of drinking in the Harbourside area of the city, a place visited during my first ever trip down last year. Our first pub of choice was the Grain Barge.
 


As should be abundantly clear from the picture, this is a converted barge moored along the harbour side. The premises is operated as part of Bristol Beer Factory and it is largely their beers that are on offer, along with at least one guest. They also boast a bar in the Hold, open for live music performances. On offer on our visit were 4 beers from BBF, namely Sunrise, Malz, Nova and Seven as well as Arbor Triple Hop as a guest. Perhaps because of the gorgeous weather, I was instantly drawn to the Sunrise (4.4%). This is an English golden ale with a biscuit malt backbone followed by waves of citrus hops. Matt went for the Arbor Triple Hop which was also deliciously and, as expected, hoppy and very citrusy. The Grain Barge has an outdoor seating area on the upper deck so we decided that this was a good place to plant ourselves whilst the beers went down, which took a few minutes, during which we watched a dog jump in and out of the harbour chasing a stick thrown by its owner. Interestingly, a luminescent squid-like creature was filmed in the harbour in 2013 prompting wild speculation before being revealed to be a man-made promotional device for a TV show.  Matt had again come up with an excellent itinerary for our second day and we tried to stick to this as accurately as possible.

With Matt's itinerary in mind, we took a wander further into the city centre to a place that I assured that I would enjoy, Zero Degrees.



Zero Degrees is a microbrewery nestled amongst some of Bristol's older buildings with a design that is sympathetic to the surroundings whilst incorporating the brewing equipment into the large interior. This is one of 4 venues across the UK, the other 3 being situated in Blackheath, Reading and, randomly, Cardiff. The beers on offer are put together on the premises and fill 16 handpulls with 6 main styles, including pilsner stout, wheat ales and craft lager. In essence, it's a less extreme but just as good version of BrewDog. I decided on a pint of the Wheat Ale (4.2%). This is a hefe-weizen with exotic top notes to the aromas. These aromas are predominantly banana with floral edges. On the palate the fruit notes continue with caramel coming through on the rich elegant finish. Matt opted for a 5.2% Californian Steam Lager, a pilsner style brew with a drinkable flavour and some nice aromas. We once again decided on open air heating, with the sun beaming down and my face taking the brunt of the damage. The smell of malt in the brewery added to the excellent feel to the day so far. I was very excited for what the rest of the day had in store.

For our next stop, we headed back downhill to a pub that has seen a resurgence in recent months due to a recent makeover with an emphasis on real ale and heavy metal (i.e. HEAVEN!!). The wonderful pub in question is none other than The Gryphon/Griffin.
Image result for gryphon pub bristol

This is a small but atmospheric pub with a narrow entrance that widens into a V shaped pub with the bar in the bigger of 2 rooms. When Matt and I arrive, the music is pure genius, heavy rock and metal with well known and obscure acts on offer. Gig posters for established and up and coming acts cover the walls. At this time of day, we are the only customers and this is not a bad thing as it means we are able to discuss the beer with the very attractive bar maid who happens to be on shift, whilst simultaneously attempting to guess the identity of the songs and artists that are playing (Battle Beast anyone?). Speaking of the beer, the ceiling is completely covered in pump clips, a testament to the pub's philosophy to never have the same beer on more than once. On offer for our delectation are 4 of the 6 available handpulls, boasting Atom Dark Alchemy, Oakham Racketeer, Caveman Brewery Si Teh Cah and Cheddar Ales Totty Pot. I was intrigued by Caveman Brewery as it was a new one on me so Matt and I went for a pint each. Based in Swanscombe in Kent, Caveman Brewery specialise in hoppy beers with big flavours. Sih Teh Cah is a good example of this. At 4.8%, this is a deep amber ale, with Ella and Rakau hops from New Zealand. A caramel malt backbone is complimented by a rich fruity hop character. We had such a good time in this pub that we decided on a second pint here, this time going for Oakham Racketeer, another of my favourite breweries. A new beer from the brewery's Oakademy of Excellence, Racketeer (5%), is a citrusy golden beer with more New Zealand hops dominating throughout. All in all, this may be one of my favourite pubs, with the possible exception of the toilets, which are in the basement and slightly reminiscent of a scene from Saw. Still, you can't have it all.

Next up, we made a quick stop off at Bristol Cider Shop, an independent local emporium that even delivers outside of the Bristol area for a courier fee. I picked up a couple of local ciders for Amy and Matt got some stuff for himself before we made our way to Bristol's oldest pub, The Hatchet Inn.




The Hatchet is named for the tools that local woodsmen used in nearby Clifton Woods. Grade II listed, the building dates from 1606 but has undergone significant alterations since. The pub has a pool room upstairs and a beer garden at the rear that faces the nearby O2 Academy. In the 18th Century, there was a rat pit at the rear of the building. The pub is notorious for being one of the taverns frequented by the infamous pirate Edward Teach (Blackbeard) who is alleged to haunt the building. The bar is U shaped and almost opposite one of the 2 entrances. The 3 handpulls feature Hobgoblin, Doom Bar and a charity Help for Heroes ale. Thatcher's real cider is also available. Matt and I decided upon the Help for Heroes ale (4.2%), brewed by Marston's on behalf of the charity with a percentage of the cost of each pint going towards this noble cause. The ale itself is copper coloured with nice malty, hoppy balance and an easy drinking flavour and mild aroma of biscuit. We were starting to flag a little by this time but were not about to give up easily.

Our next move was to a pub that Matt has raved about for a while. Nicknamed the 'Cat Pub', for reasons that will become clear, we next headed to the Bag O' Nails.

Image result for bag of nails bristol

The nickname given to the pub, mostly by Matt, is due to the landlord's fondness for cats, of which at least 6 roam the premises. Only one of these is present in the bar area during our visit, curled up in the window on a copy of New Scientist. There is even a sign on the way in warning customers to be aware of the kitten to prevent any risk of her reaching the busy road outside the pub. The pub itself is certainly atmospheric, fairly small inside with 8 of 9 handpulls in use. These offer a regularly changing range of real ales. During our visit, beers are available from Hop Kettle, Bragdy Heavy Industry, Naked Beer Company, Ashley Down, Flying Monk, Left Handed Giant and Red Squirrel. I decided on a pint of Bragdy Heavy Industry's 77 (4.9%). This is a big amber IPA with dark Seville marmalade and piney peppery bitterness. Matt decided on Hop Kettle's Kia Ora which was very sweet and smooth. As we took a seat and enjoyed our beers, I  took a moment to admire the long list of landlord's rules, scrawled on a pillar at the bar. Some of them are reasonable: Rule 11: No skipping a record once it has started. Others are tongue in cheek: Rule 12: Rule 11 does not apply to the landlord. Whilst simultaneously flicking through the magazine I'd extracted from under the cat (that's a strange sentence), and attempting to photograph said feline, Matt was engaged in conversation with a gentleman across the room. This began as a chat about Mark Knopfler and Dire Straits, segued further into music and then got strange when the gentleman told us about his 'innate ability' to identify a person's ancestral background from facial features alone. Interestingly, he couldn't work mine out until I told him, at which point it all apparently became clear. Worst superpower ever. We decided that this was probably our cue to leave.

We intended to only visit one more pub before I sadly had to depart for the station and the train back to the Midlands. This plan changed slightly when I became distracted by an interesting looking place that I'd never seen before. We decided to change tack slightly and made a quick trip to Beer Emporium.

Image result for beer emporium bristol

Situated in a series of brick vaults beneath the streets of Bristol, the Beer Emporium is also a restaurant and a bottle shop. The interior is very modern with low ceilings and dark alcoves off to the side. The bar is well stocked with both handpulls and a variety of bottled products. 6 of the 12 available handpulls are in use, with beers from a variety of breweries local to the area and further afield. With time of the essence and finances running low, we decided that halves would be a better option here. I went for yet another beer from another brewery that I love, Abbeydale Cosmology (5%). This is a premium blonde bitter with crisp fresh-hop aromas and soft pineapple notes due to a blend of 2 Australian hops, Galaxy and Ella. Matt decided on a half of a beer from Nottingham's own Blue Monkey brewery. I feel that Beer Emporium is definitely worth a further visit when we have more time in future.

We had time for one more pub before my inevitable departure. This led to another change of plan as we swapped a pub that I've not visited for one that we thoroughly enjoyed on a previous visit and that happens to be closer to the train station that I would soon require. So it was, with heavy hearts and fuzzy heads, we made a return to The Cornubia.
 


The Cornubia is a much loved ale house, tucked away on Temple Street. It has featured in this blog before but I can't remember whether there was a picture but there is now at any rate. Amongst the quirky features of this great pub are various decorative flags and a turtle tank, complete with turtles which I took care to notice this time. Of the 10 available hand pumps, 7 were in use with their usual strong range of beers from all over the place. Between us we decided on Mantles Gold and Peerless El Dorado respectively. The El Dorado was excellent. At 4.8%, it is a full bodied malty amber ale with a distinctive, peachy fruit finish, derived from the hops that give the beer its name and provide a medium hop bitterness. It's a great beer with which to end a great couple of days.

Sadly, the time had come to make my weary way back to Temple Meads station for the long journey back to Nottingham. I always manage to have fun in the West Country. The beer and the company is excellent and I genuinely believe that a lot of regions would struggle to beat it for this. It's always increasingly hard to go home after so many hours of fun experiencing what this beautiful part of the country has to offer. But, never fear, I am intending to go back. As long as this part of the world keeps impressing me, it will be too hard to stay away.

With my work situation now more conducive to regular trips, expect to see further updates, on an almost weekly basis fairly soon. Until then, keep drinking!

Fan-TAFF-tic!

First things first, credit for this entry's ingenious title pun goes to Matt, who coined this during a text conversation to arrange a visit to the location in question. The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed my reference to an upcoming visit to the Welsh capital for an exploration of what beer over the border has to offer the seasoned drinker (assuming you were able to access my last entry; I had some slight publishing issues). I am pleased to announce that, not only did this trip successfully take place, it was the first of a 2 day excursion which took in a return to Bristol for a visit to some pubs not visited previously. What follows is an in-depth look around Cardiff and some of its many fine drinking establishments. But first, as always, the history bit.

Cardiff  is the capital and largest city in Wales and the tenth largest city in the United Kingdom.The city is the country's chief commercial centre, the base for most national cultural and sporting institutions, the Welsh national media, and the seat of the National Assembly for Wales. The unitary authority area's mid-2011 population was estimated to be 346,100, while the population of the Larger Urban Zone was estimated at 861,400 in 2009. Cardiff is a significant tourist centre and the most popular visitor destination in Wales with 18.3 million visitors in 2010. In 2011, Cardiff was ranked sixth in the world in National Geographic's alternative tourist destinations.
The city of Cardiff is the county town of the historic county of Glamorgan (and later South Glamorgan). Cardiff is part of the Eurocities network of the largest European cities. The Cardiff Urban Area covers a slightly larger area outside the county boundary, and includes the towns of Dinas Powys and Penarth. A small town until the early 19th century, its prominence as a major port for the transport of coal following the arrival of industry in the region contributed to its rise as a major city.
Cardiff was made a city in 1905, and proclaimed the capital of Wales in 1955. Since the 1990s, Cardiff has seen significant development. A new waterfront area at Cardiff Bay contains the Senedd building, home to the Welsh Assembly and the Wales Millennium Centre arts complex. Current developments include the continuation of the redevelopment of the Cardiff Bay and city centre areas with projects such as the Cardiff International Sports Village, a BBC drama village, and a new business district in the city centre.
Sporting venues in the city include the Millennium Stadium (the national stadium for the Wales national rugby union team and the Wales national football team), SWALEC Stadium (the home of Glamorgan County Cricket Club), Cardiff City Stadium (the home of Cardiff City football team), Cardiff International Sports Stadium (the home of Cardiff Amateur Athletic Club) and Cardiff Arms Park (the home of Cardiff Blues and Cardiff RFC rugby union teams). The city was awarded with the European City of Sport in 2009 due to its role in hosting major international sporting events. It has been announced that Cardiff will again be the European City of Sport in 2014. The Millennium Stadium hosted 11 football matches as part of the 2012 Summer Olympics, including the games' opening event and the men's bronze medal match.

Caerdydd (the Welsh name of the city) derives from the earlier Welsh form Caerdyf. The change from -dyf to -dydd shows the colloquial alteration of Welsh f [v] and dd [ð], and was perhaps also driven by folk etymology (dydd is Welsh for 'day' whereas dyf has no obvious meaning). This sound change had probably first occurred in the Middle Ages; both forms were current in the Tudor period. Caerdyf has its origins in post-Roman Brythonic words meaning "the fort of the Taff". The fort probably refers to that established by the Romans. Caer is Welsh for fort and -dyf is in effect a form of Taf (Taff), the river which flows by Cardiff Castle, with the t showing consonant mutation to d and the vowel showing affection as a result of a (lost) genitive case ending.
The anglicised form Cardiff is derived from Caerdyf, with the Welsh f [v] borrowed as ff /f/, as also happens in Taff (from Welsh Taf) and Llandaff (from Welsh Llandaf). As English does not have the vowel [ɨ] the final vowel has been borrowed as /ɪ/.
The antiquarian William Camden (1551–1623) suggested that the name Cardiff may derive from "Caer-Didi" ("the Fort of Didius"), a name supposedly given in honour of Aulus Didius Gallus, governor of a nearby province at the time when the Roman fort was established. Although some sources repeat this theory, it has been rejected on linguistic grounds by modern scholars such as Professor Gwynedd Pierce.

Archaeological evidence from sites in and around Cardiff—the St Lythans burial chamber, near Wenvoe (about four miles (6.4 km) west, south west of Cardiff city centre), the Tinkinswood burial chamber, near St Nicholas (about six miles (10 km) west of Cardiff city centre), the Cae'rarfau Chambered Tomb, Creigiau (about six miles (10 km) north west of Cardiff city centre) and the Gwern y Cleppa Long Barrow, near Coedkernew, Newport (about eight and a quarter miles (13.5 km) north east of Cardiff city centre)—shows that people had settled in the area by at least around 6,000 years before present (BP), during the early Neolithic; about 1,500 years before either Stonehenge or the Great Pyramid of Giza was completed. A group of five Bronze Age tumuli is at the summit of The Garth (Welsh: Mynydd y Garth), within the county's northern boundary. Four Iron Age hill fort and enclosure sites have been identified within Cardiff's present-day county boundaries, including Caerau Hillfort, an enclosed area of 5.1 hectares (51,000 m2).
Until the Roman conquest of Britain, Cardiff was part of the territory of the Silures – a Celtic British tribe that flourished in the Iron Age – whose territory included the areas that would become known as Breconshire, Monmouthshire and Glamorgan. The 3.2-hectare (8-acre) fort established by the Romans near the mouth of the River Taff in 75 AD, in what would become the north western boundary of the centre of Cardiff, was built over an extensive settlement that had been established by the Silures in the 50s AD. The fort was one of a series of military outposts associated with Isca Augusta (Caerleon) that acted as border defences. The fort may have been abandoned in the early 2nd century as the area had been subdued, however by this time a civilian settlement, or vicus, was established. It was likely made up of traders who made a living from the fort, ex-soldiers and their families. A Roman villa has been discovered at Ely. Contemporary with the Saxon Shore Forts of the 3rd and 4th centuries, a stone fortress was established at Cardiff. Similar to the shore forts, the fortress was built to protect Britannia from raiders. Coins from the reign of Gratian indicate that Cardiff was inhabited until at least the 4th century; the fort was abandoned towards the end of the 4th century, as the last Roman legions left the province of Britannia with Magnus Maximus.
Little is known about the fort and civilian settlement in the period between the Roman departure from Britain and the Norman Conquest. The settlement probably shrank in size and may even have been abandoned. In the absence of Roman rule, Wales was divided into small kingdoms; early on, Meurig ap Tewdrig emerged as the local king in Glywysing (which later became Glamorgan). The area passed through his family until the advent of the Normans in the 11th century.

In 1081 William I, King of England, began work on the castle keep within the walls of the old Roman fort. Cardiff Castle has been at the heart of the city ever since. The castle was substantially altered and extended during the Victorian period by John Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute, and the architect William Burges. Original Roman work can, however, still be distinguished in the wall facings.
A small town grew up in the shadow of the castle, made up primarily of settlers from England. Cardiff had a population of between 1,500 and 2,000 in the Middle Ages, a relatively normal size for a Welsh town in this period. By the end of the 13th century, Cardiff was the only town in Wales with a population exceeding 2,000, but it was relatively small compared with most notable towns in the Kingdom of England.
In the early 12th century a wooden palisade was erected around the city to protect it. Cardiff was a busy port in the Middle Ages, and was declared a Staple port in 1327.
Henry II travelled through Cardiff on his journey to Ireland and had a premonition against the holding of Sunday markets at St Piran's Chapel, which stood in the middle of the road between the castle entrance and Westgate.
In 1404 Owain Glyndŵr burned Cardiff and took Cardiff Castle. As the town was still very small, most of the buildings were made of wood and the town was destroyed. However, the town was soon rebuilt and began to flourish once again.

In 1536, the Act of Union between England and Wales led to the creation of the shire of Glamorgan, and Cardiff was made the county town. It also became part of Kibbor hundred. Around this same time the Herbert family became the most powerful family in the area. In 1538, Henry VIII closed the Dominican and Franciscan friaries in Cardiff, the remains of which were used as building materials. A writer around this period described Cardiff: "The River Taff runs under the walls of his honours castle and from the north part of the town to the south part where there is a fair quay and a safe harbour for shipping."
Cardiff had become a Free Borough in 1542. In 1573, it was made a head port for collection of customs duties, and in 1581, Elizabeth I granted Cardiff its first royal charter. Pembrokeshire historian George Owen described Cardiff in 1602 as "the fayrest towne in Wales yett not the welthiest.", and the town gained a second Royal Charter in 1608.
A disastrous flood of the Bristol Channel on 30 January 1607 (now believed to be a tsunami) led to a change in the course of the River Taff and the ruining of St Mary's Parish Church, which was replaced by its chapel of ease, St John the Baptist.
During the Second English Civil War, St Fagans just to the west of the town, played host to the Battle of St Fagans. The battle, between a Royalist rebellion and a New Model Army detachment, was a decisive victory for the Parliamentarians and allowed Oliver Cromwell to conquer Wales. It is the last major battle to occur in Wales, with about 200 (mostly Royalist) soldiers killed.
In the ensuing century Cardiff was at peace. In 1766, John Stuart, 1st Marquess of Bute married into the Herbert family and was later created Baron Cardiff, and in 1778 he began renovations on Cardiff Castle. In the 1790s a racecourse, printing press, bank and coffee house all opened, and Cardiff gained a stagecoach service to London. Despite these improvements, Cardiff's position in the Welsh urban hierarchy had declined over the 18th century. Iolo Morgannwg called it "an obscure and inconsiderable place", and the 1801 census found the population to be only 1,870, making Cardiff only the 25th largest town in Wales, well behind Merthyr and Swansea.

In 1793, John Crichton-Stuart, 2nd Marquess of Bute was born. He would spend his life building the Cardiff docks and would later be called "the creator of modern Cardiff". A twice-weekly boat service between Cardiff and Bristol was established in 1815, and in 1821, the Cardiff Gas Works was established.
After the Napoleonic Wars Cardiff entered a period of social and industrial unrest, starting with the trial and hanging of Dic Penderyn in 1831.
The town grew rapidly from the 1830s onwards, when the Marquess of Bute built a dock, which eventually linked to the Taff Vale Railway. Cardiff became the main port for exports of coal from the Cynon, Rhondda, and Rhymney valleys, and grew at a rate of nearly 80% per decade between 1840 and 1870. Much of the growth was due to migration from within and outside Wales: in 1841, a quarter of Cardiff's population were English-born and more than 10% had been born in Ireland. By the 1881 census, Cardiff had overtaken both Merthyr and Swansea to become the largest town in Wales. Cardiff's new status as the premier town in South Wales was confirmed when it was chosen as the site of the University College South Wales and Monmouthshire in 1893.
A permanent military presence was established in the town with the completion of Maindy Barracks in 1877.
Cardiff faced a challenge in the 1880s when David Davies of Llandinam and the Barry Railway Company promoted the development of rival docks at Barry. Barry docks had the advantage of being accessible in all tides, and David Davies claimed that his venture would cause "grass to grow in the streets of Cardiff". From 1901 coal exports from Barry surpassed those from Cardiff, but the administration of the coal trade remained centred on Cardiff, in particular its Coal Exchange, where the price of coal on the British market was determined and the first million-pound deal was struck in 1907. The city also strengthened its industrial base with the decision of the owners of the Dowlais Ironworks in Merthyr (who would later form part of Guest, Keen and Nettlefolds) to build a new steelworks close to the docks at East Moors, which Lord Bute opened on 4 February 1891.

King Edward VII granted Cardiff city status on 28 October 1905, and the city acquired a Roman Catholic Cathedral in 1916. In subsequent years an increasing number of national institutions were located in the city, including the National Museum of Wales, Welsh National War Memorial, and the University of Wales Registry Building—however, it was denied the National Library of Wales, partly because the library's founder, Sir John Williams, considered Cardiff to have "a non-Welsh population".
After a brief post-war boom, Cardiff docks entered a prolonged decline in the interwar period. By 1936, their trade was less than half its value in 1913, reflecting the slump in demand for Welsh coal. Bomb damage during the Cardiff Blitz in World War II included the devastation of Llandaff Cathedral, and in the immediate postwar years the city's link with the Bute family came to an end.
 
The city was proclaimed capital city of Wales on 20 December 1955, by a written reply by the Home Secretary Gwilym Lloyd George. Caernarfon had also vied for this title. Cardiff therefore celebrated two important anniversaries in 2005. The Encyclopedia of Wales notes that the decision to recognise the city as the capital of Wales "had more to do with the fact that it contained marginal Conservative constituencies than any reasoned view of what functions a Welsh capital should have". Although the city hosted the Commonwealth Games in 1958, Cardiff only became a centre of national administration with the establishment of the Welsh Office in 1964, which later prompted the creation of various other public bodies such as the Arts Council of Wales and the Welsh Development Agency, most of which were based in Cardiff.
 
The East Moors Steelworks closed in 1978 and Cardiff lost population during the 1980s, consistent with a wider pattern of counter urbanisation in Britain. However, it recovered and was one of the few cities (outside London) where population grew during the 1990s. During this period the Cardiff Bay Development Corporation was promoting the redevelopment of south Cardiff; an evaluation of the regeneration of Cardiff Bay published in 2004 concluded that the project had "reinforced the competitive position of Cardiff" and "contributed to a massive improvement in the quality of the built environment", although it had failed "to attract the major inward investors originally anticipated".
In the 1997 devolution referendum, Cardiff voters rejected the establishment of the National Assembly for Wales by 55.4% to 44.2% on a 47% turnout, which Denis Balsom partly ascribed to a general preference in Cardiff and some other parts of Wales for a 'British' rather than exclusively 'Welsh' identity. The relative lack of support for the Assembly locally, and difficulties between the Welsh Office and Cardiff Council in acquiring the original preferred venue, Cardiff City Hall, encouraged other local authorities to bid to house the Assembly. However, the Assembly eventually located at Tŷ Hywel in Cardiff Bay in 1999; in 2005, a new debating chamber on an adjacent site, designed by Richard Rogers, was opened.
The city was county town of Glamorgan until the council reorganisation in 1974 paired Cardiff and the now Vale of Glamorgan together as the new county of South Glamorgan. Further local government restructuring in 1996 resulted in Cardiff city's district council becoming a unitary authority, the City and County of Cardiff, with the addition of Creigiau and Pentyrch.

So, thousands of years of history have made Cardiff the place that it is today and it was into this backdrop that we eagerly flung ourselves. With Matt being in Bristol and myself in Nottingham, we agreed to meet in Cardiff. 3 train journeys and 2 changes later and I was stepping out into bright Spring sunshine in the land of the dragon. As much as that sounded like a Hawkwind lyric, it really was that kind of day, the clouds of England parting into bright sunshine as my train left the tunnel that runs under the River Severn. Matt is familiar with the Cardiff area as his sister lives there and so had planned a rough itinerary for the afternoon. Our first move was to jump on yet another train and make the short hop to Cardiff Bay. This relatively newly developed area is a haven of pubs and shops and it was to one of these pubs that we quickly ventured. Venue number one for the day was a Wetherspoons overlooking the entrance to Cardiff Bay, The Mount Stuart.
 
Opened in July 2014 in what was previously a Harry Ramsden's restaurant, The Mount Stuart is a 2 storey glass building with extensive seating both inside and out, including an upstairs terrace with telescopes for those wanting to admire the impressive views. The building originally dates from the 1880s and was the long time offices of Mount Stuart Dry Docks Ltd.  There are bars upstairs and downstairs and these are well stocked as you would expect from a Spoons. Amongst the usual offerings such as Abbot Ale, Ruddles and Adnams Broadside, there were also a couple of guest ales, featured as part of the recent international brewery collaboration event. The two available on our visit were Celt Experience Chieftain and Norwegian Brewery Nogne O Wit. We decided on a pint of Chieftain to start the day and this proved to be a good plan. Brewed with Amarillo hops, this is a lovely aromatic ale of 4.1% ABV. This is a pale, fruity single hopped session ale full of fresh berry, floral and spice aromas. We decided to make the most of the excellent weather and sit in the outdoor seating area overlooking both the entrance to the Bay and the nearby Doctor Who Experience, sadly closed during our visit. The beer went down very quickly so we decided that a second pint was in order. It made sense to try the 2nd guest beer, which was again an excellent move. At 4.5 %, Wit is a Belgian style ale with generous contributions of orange peel and coriander giving it a fruity palate and a spicy finish. I thought that food would be a good idea at this stage so we moved to the upstairs seating area whilst I inhaled a very good Panini. The area is certainly very picturesque and has an intriguing atmosphere. The nearby docks were the scene of a ghostly sighting in 1962 when a teenager who was fishing encountered a man who was smoking a pipe and wearing a trilby hat and either a trench coat or overcoat. The figure swiftly vanished into a nearby field of flat prairie grass.

We took our leave of this location and headed a few yards away to our next destination, Terra Nova. 


This impressive looking building is yet another addition to the area following the recent redevelopment. The interior includes some traditional looking features such as exposed beams and period wall designs. This was the scene of our first encounter for the day with Brains Brewery as they are based in the city and feature in quite a significant number of the pubs. Terra Nova features the whole range of Brains beers. With quite a range to choose from, we went for a pint each of Brains Gold. This is a full-flavoured, hoppy and refreshing golden ale. There is a satisfying bitterness, balanced by vibrant citrus aromas and complex hop flavours from late hopping with Cascade and Styrian Goldings, all for a strength of 4.3%. We again made use of the sunshine and selected a table outside where Matt exposed me to some treats from the world of music on YouTube. After a few minutes, the breeze had begun to pick up so we decided to finish our pints and venture elsewhere.

Our next destination was a heritage pub a short walk from the bay area on Bute Street.




Known as The Packet after a type of steamer vessel that used to frequent the nearby docks, this is a spacious pub that has retained its heritage look with fabulous mahogany construction behind the bar, consisting of columns and arches and 2 rope clad original pillars. The bar takes up much of the central space with seating around the edges into a series of alcoves.  The pub was built in 1864 as a hotel mainly for sailors. There is an unwritten rule that a sailor caught with the tide out must be given boarding. In 1985, the building was extended, consuming the house next door. The stained glass windows were replaced in 2004. Brains beers were again in evidence here and this time we decided on a pint of Rev. James (4.5%). Full bodied and warming, this is rich in palate, spicy and aromatic with a deeply satisfying finish.

We enjoyed our time at The Packet and then decided that we would venture back into Cardiff city centre. Opting not to jump back onto the train with the weather still good, we decided to walk back into the centre seeing as it was really only a few minutes away. On our way we passed the Oasis Dental Care practice which led to us attempting to make some puns combining dentistry with a legendary Britpop band. The winner: Don't Look Plaque In Anger......... I'm truly sorry. What happened next was pure comedy gold. Approaching the city centre, we spied a nice looking pub that we decided to investigate further. I needed the loo if nothing else. The pub in question was the Golden Cross.

Image result for golden cross cardiff

This famous listed building is a perfect example of an old Cardiff pub and the exterior retains its historic glazed tiles. We entered the pub to the sight of 4 handpulls, all out of use but Brains Gold was available on Smooth flow. Matt ordered whilst I went to the loo. Upon my return, we quickly realised what was unusual about the pub. The posters advertising performances by drag acts and the look we were given by the barman gave away that we were in a gay pub. This isn't so much of an issue but was a good indication that in future we need to make sure we research places properly. The Brains Smooth itself was very good. At 3.7%, it's easy drinking and very light and went down very easily indeed.

Next up was somewhere that we had definitely planned as part of the days activities, The Cottage. 


This is yet another Brains pub, in the heart of the city centre on St. Mary's Street. The setting inside is very relaxed and traditional with a good range of cask ales. As well as the normal beer range, the bar also featured a beer from the brewery's cask beer range, Gin Lane (5%). This seemed like an excellent choice after our good experiences with their beers so far and we were proven correct. This ale was brewed especially for the Wales Beer Festival and is due to reappear at the Great British Beer Festival. Lemon and lime aromas give way to herbal, spicy hop flavours and a dry, pleasantly bitter aftertaste. This concoction also benefits from the addition of ground juniper berries and crushed coriander seeds creating an overall distinctive gin flavour. The pub is quite long and narrow and we pulled up a table in the back to enjoy our delicious pints. Matt took this time to outline the general plan for the rest of the day which would ultimately culminate in meeting up with his sister and her boyfriend.

I was heartened by the potential delights to come and before long it was time for a wander to our next destination, the Queen's Vaults.


Probably later Victorian, this grade 2 listed building had a structural refurbishment in 1996, making it cavernous and open plan. It is not completely clear when the pub was extended to consume the 2 adjacent properties. The pub was previously known as the Flyhalf and Firkin until taking its present name in 2002. The pub is a stone's throw from the Millennium Stadium and inside it contains 3 pool tables, situated underneath a high beamed, pitched ceiling, like a barn. The bar was well stocked with 6 handpulls, most of which featured the now familiar site of Brains Beers. Additional to this though was Grog y Vog from the Vale of Glamorgan Brewery up the road in Barry. At 4.3%, this is a golden pale ale late hopped with whole Styrian Goldings for a fresh aroma and flavour. It was certainly refreshing and I was thoroughly enjoying my first ever trip to Wales. The beer was definitely starting to have an effect by this stage but more fun was still to come.

Next up, in the shadow of Cardiff Castle, was Dempsey's.
 


Situated opposite the main entrance of Cardiff Castle, Dempsey's is a traditional Irish bar operated by Brains (them again). The bar is well stocked with the Brains range and this time we opted for the SA (4.2%), whilst admiring the many gig posters dotted across the walls. The SA is copper coloured with a full flavour. A nutty richness comes from a blend of fine pale and crystal malts and this balanced with a satisfying dryness from the use of Challenger, Fuggles and Goldings. There is a pleasant hint of spirit in the aroma. I took some time here to admire the nearby castle, both impressive and imposing in the afternoon Welsh sunshine. As the history section above makes clear, the castle dates back to 1070. This area of the city is renowned for its extensive hauntings and the local ghost walk starts from the main entrance of the castle. The castle is believed to be the haunt of a phantom coach which heard when a member of the Hastings is about to die. It was heard by John Boyle on the night his cousin the Marquis Hastings died. Other ghosts reputed to haunt the castle include the second Marquess of Bute who walks through several walls, a faceless woman in a long skirt known as Sarah and a 3 metre tall giant who walks around the park. A couple of streets nearby also have accompanying spirits. Nearby Cowbridge Road is haunted by the ghost of a young boy and Queen Street, at the other end of Castle Road, is home to sightings of a phantom grey female figure who walks along the street until reaching the bridge where she turns and waves in the direction of the castle. These tales sound spooky in the bright daylight so it's easy to imagine how sinister this can seem when the sun goes down.

It was soon time to move again, this time for a rendezvous with Matt's sister Becca and her boyfriend Rich. The venue for this meet up was the City Arms.
 


Locally renowned for its impressive and ever-changing range of beers, the pub was constructed in the 1880s, the same decade that Brains was founded, and was known as the Cattle Market Tavern. It was later renamed the Dover Arms and became the City Arms in 1905 in recognition of Cardiff's new City status. The pub specialises in serving high quality ales and ciders straight from the cask, on tap and in bottles. The pub was voted CAMRA Cardiff Pub of the Year in 2012 and was highly commended in 2013 and 2014. The bar is crammed with handpulls featuring Brains SA and Dark as it regulars and a myriad of ever changing guests. Catching my particular attention was East Street Cream (5%), courtesy of RCH Brewery. This is a full bodied beer which combines malty, hoppy and fruit bitterness with a sweet taste, which all vie for dominance in what is a complex chestnut coloured ale. The pub sits almost opposite the main entrance to the Millennium Stadium, leading to some excellent photo opportunities. As I supped my very nice pint, Becca and Rich soon arrived accompanied by Rich's friend Kit. With our gang now complete for the evening, we finished our drinks and nipped across the road to our next destination, conveniently located opposite.
Image result for urban taphouse cardiff

Urban Taphouse, pictured above, is a local outlet for the Newport based Tiny Rebel brewery. The bar has built a reputation for excellent beer and excellent food. As well as a selection of Tiny Rebel beers, the bar also features a changing selection of guest beers. Being a big fan of Tiny Rebel beers, I decided on a pint of Goldie Lookin' Ale (4.5%). This beer is a collaboration between the brewery and local novelty rap group Goldie Lookin' Chain. This is a golden and very tasty beer with a heavy smattering of American hops adding to the aroma and a tang on the palate. As well as beer, Matt and I had decided to sample one of the renowned burgers and this was another excellent decision. The food was amazing and I can recommend it to any visitors to this fine city. Another feature of Urban Taphouse is it's regular weekly board games night on a Monday. Matt and I, very much beer addled by now struggled to understand the rules of  a game called Epidemic, which was essentially Risk with added disease. The others seemed to be enjoying it though! It was at this point that we randomly bumped into David, a friend of ours from Nottingham who has now relocated to Cardiff. This was completely unexpected but very nice all the same.

Sadly, our day in Cardiff was almost over so it wasn't long before we had to bid our farewells and head off to the station for the train back to Bristol. We did have time to pop into another Wetherspoons near the station for a very quick pint but, due largely to the sheer amount of beer and the length of the day, neither of us paid much attention to the beer that we drank. The train journey to Bristol was a brief one but it gave us both a chance to reflect on our day. I was very impressed by what Cardiff had to offer, even with the preponderance of Brains in many of the establishments. The beer they offer is of excellent quality and there are many other pubs that we had no time to visit. Cardiff is definitely worth a visit for any fan of real ale. The Welsh certainly know what they're doing and this is reflected in the care and quality provided in the beers. I would fully recommend a trip across the border. The Dragon is waking and it's waiting for you.

Monday, March 30, 2015

It's Not All Bad in Radford

Spring is in the air at last, so what better time to try and get the blog back up to more regular publishing levels. I took a bit of a gamble with my chosen location this time around but everywhere deserves a fair representation where ale is concerned. Last week, with a day off at my disposal I decided to brave the pubs of the Radford area, to see what, if anything, they have to offer.

Radford is an inner-city area of Nottingham, located just outside the city centre itself. It is bounded on the south by Lenton and Nottingham City Centre, and comprises around 600 acres (2.4 km2) of land.
St. Peter's Church, Radford was given by William Peveril to Lenton Priory. The church was rebuilt in 1812 at a cost of £2,000. The Wesleyan chapel, was built in 1805, and enlarged in 1828. In September 1878 a chapel was built on St Peter's Street by the United Methodist Free Churches at a cost of £1,900. It was closed due to declining membership and income in June 1947 and purchased by the Evangelical Free Church. Radford Registration District (RD) was created on 1 July 1837 on the introduction of Statutary registration of Births, Marriages and Deaths (bmd) - and was abolished, and absorbed into Nottingham RD, on 1 July 1880.
The area has a large ethnic minority population (mainly West Indian, African, Asian and increasingly Polish), and accordingly, there is a large number of specialist food and retail shops catering to specific cultures. Due to the relatively cheap nature of housing in the area (and the large number of old Victorian properties converted into flats and bedsits). Radford has a large student population, most of whom attend the nearby Nottingham Trent University and University of Nottingham.
Radford was the home of Raleigh Industries once the world's largest bicycle producer, Players cigarettes and Manlove, Alliott & Co. Ltd., inventors of incinerators for waste disposal. It provides the backdrop for much of Alan Sillitoe's book Saturday Night and Sunday Morning. Numerous scenes from the film of the book which starred Albert Finney, were shot in Radford.

Radford is one of the more well known areas of Nottingham but normally for the wrong reasons, despite its extensive history. I was hoping that nothing untoward would occur during my exploration of this particular area. Having made my way into town by bus and a brisk walk from the city centre, hoping to dodge the incoming thunderstorm, I headed towards my intended first destination, the Colonel Burnaby on Hartley Road.





It was here that I hit an early snag. Although the pub appeared to be open, as evidenced by the open front door and a sign that at least attempted to be welcoming, there didn't appear to be anyone home. The interior lights were off and most the pub appeared to be in darkness. I have an innate fear of entering ominous places alone and this is bettered by a slightly more logical fear of being knifed by strangers. Given the evidence, it seemed best to give this location a miss, at least until I could muster back up. Luckily, my next location was just down the road. Situated parallel to the Castle Retail Park is The Pheasant Inn.




This tidy, pleasant-looking building on Prospect Street gave me hope. The interior is roughly square and symmetrical in general layout. There is an entrance to either side of the front windows, both of which bring the drinker through to the main bar area. There is a dart board to one side of here and a pool table to the other. The central bar faces some high backed booths with plaques dedicating these to dearly departed regulars. The bar is well stocked with spirits and lagers and includes 4 hand pulls. Unfortunately, during my visit, none of these are in use. The pub is well kept and well presented, the atmosphere is relaxed and landlord and regulars are very pleasant. Despite this, I can't help but feel that the hand pumps are wasted and could certainly add to the popularity of what is a very nice venue. Although disappointing from an ale drinker's perspective, my spirits my lightened by the bar staff try to decide whether or not I am over 25 (sadly, I am) and by the present of a very cute, very friendly small dog which appeared from the upstairs region of the pub shortly before my departure.
So far, it had been an oddly disappointing afternoon. However, I was not about to give up. I was determined that things couldn't be as bad as they seemed. Thankfully, my next location proved me correct.

Next up was a place that I'd intended to visit for quite a while. Renowned as the tap house for Nottingham Brewery, my next stop was The Plough.



Dating from the 1700's The Plough is famously mentioned in Alan Sillitoe's novel Saturday Night and Sunday Morning. The main entrance takes you to a choice of 2 internal doors which take you to opposite sides of the square central bar. Upon entering, I opted for the right hand door, not really for any reason but I had to start somewhere. There is seating around the edges of both rooms, as well as small tables and some high bar stools. The 10 hand pulls are divided between both sides of the bar, 4 on one side and 6 on the other and one of these is not in use during my visit. All but one of these beers, as you'd expect, come from the associated brewery which is behind the pub. The 4 on the side I have chosen are Rock Mild, EPA, Legend and Rock Bitter. On the opposite side, the pumps boast Regal, Bullion, Broadway Reel Ale, Sooty Stout and Clark's Blonde which is the guest. I decided to begin with a pint of Legend as I was thoroughly parched by this point. The Legend was in excellent condition and went down very well indeed, reflecting everything that is good about the beers from this fabulous local brewery. I thought it was only fair to try a second pint here and I was feeling adventurous. I opted second time around for the Sooty Stout. This is a fabulous beer, full of complex aromas and smoky, hazy flavours. It is essentially like drinking smoke, with all of the tangy and woody undertones that you would expect. I didn't want to leave here in any hurry but time was getting on and I still had another couple of locations left to visit. Hoping to dodge any impending rain showers, I made my way down towards the next stop, passing student flats in what used to be the old Raleigh bicycle factory and the White Horse pub, now unceremoniously converted into a café.

My journey now took me out to the other end of Radford, emerging on Derby Road. Originally a farmhouse and a pub since at least 1810, I was now at The Three Wheatsheaves.


 The interior of the pub is a mix of modern and traditional features with the bar to one side in a reverse J shape. Of the 3 handpulls on the bar, 1 is in use and this is offering Caledonian Edinburgh Castle. This is a copper coloured ale with a soft flavour of hops and an overall sweet finish. Despite the lack of choice at the time of my trip, the landlord seems to be preparing for an increase in ale volume as a number of pump clips are being stored behind the bar, presumably for when the renovations are completed. I'm prepared to give this particular pub the benefit of the doubt pending another investigation. It's nice to see that the new landlord is still prepared to make the most of his ale pumps once everything is up and running again. If done properly, this could be a venue to watch.
Last on my itinerary for the day was further down Derby Road, in the shadow of Queen's Medical Centre. Operated under the Flaming Grill brand, my last destination was the Rose & Crown.




Behind the trademark orange and black exterior is a large, expansive interior around a W shaped bar which occupies an area of the back wall. The pub is geared around food and the amount of seating on offer reflects this, consisting of low tables and high plush booths. There are lots of TV screens and a projector, focused on showing live sport. The bar includes 4 hand pulls, half of which are in use, providing Castle Rock Harvest Pale and Wells Bombardier. The Bombardier is very well kept and that is always good to see. Taking a seat at a high table facing a TV screen on which Sky Sports News is playing, I reflected about the ups and downs of my Radford recon. The quality of Radford's pubs for the discerning ale drinker is a reflection of the area as a whole and probably suffers as a direct result of the area's unsavoury reputation. However, this does not mean it is all bad. The fact that Nottingham Brewery, and its tap house The Plough, can thrive in this area is a testament to how times are changing. It will be interesting to see how the ale scene develops here. All being well, The Three Wheatsheaves will continue to provide ale once its refurbishment work is complete, offering a good alternative for ale drinkers in the area. If The Pheasant can also make better use of their ale pumps then an area that initially appears to be a little bit of a real ale wasteland (The Plough obviously excluded from this), may begin to show signs of turning into an unlikely haven.

Although I do keep saying it, I fully intend to update this on a more regular basis with areas far and wide making an appearance, including my first ever trip to Wales and a return to the West Country. This year looks set to be another good one and I intend to monitor that as best as I possibly can.

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Doning My Drinking Cap

Festive greetings one and all! Can I just begin by pointing out that the perceived spelling mistake in this blog's title is deliberate, for reasons that will soon become clear. Hopefully this will prevent any fellow grammar Nazis from getting on my case about it. Last week, on a chilly, December afternoon I made my first foray into Leicestershire on behalf of this blog. My intention was to investigate the pubs in the village of Castle Donington, an area I first became accustomed to due to my regular commute when I worked at East Midlands Airport. I wasn't sure what to expect but, as you're about to find out, it was a worthwhile afternoon.

Castle Donington is a village and civil parish in the North West Leicestershire, part of the Derby postcode area and on the edge of the National Forest. It is the closest town to East Midlands Airport.
Castle Donington stands on the former Nottingham to Birmingham trunk road. The town is a mix of the old and new, with modern shops mixed with dignified Georgian and Regency houses. Several timber framed houses dating from the 17th century and earlier survive along the main road.
The town has no rail station, but East Midlands Parkway opened early in 2008 at Ratcliffe-on-Soar providing links on the Midland Main Line.
In 1868 the Midland Railway opened the Castle Donington Line, which included Castle Donington and Shardlow railway station, on the northern edge of the town. The station was closed to regular passenger traffic in 1930, and closed completely and demolished in 1968. The access driveway still exists but for pedestrians only, and is the start of a footpath to Hemington, running past the site of the old goods yard, now a scrap yard. The railway remains open for some freight traffic.

King's Mill, the nearby crossing on the River Trent, is mentioned in a charter issued by Æthelred the Unready in 1009 regarding the boundaries of Weston-on-Trent. Dunintune or Dunitone is mentioned twice in the Domesday Book of 1086 as having land belonging to Countess Ælfgifu and land assigned to Earl Hugh. It is called Castoldonyngtoin in a duchy of Lancaster warrant of 1484.
 
Castle Donington also had its own power station later operated by Powergen from 1990, which when originally built in 1958 was one of the largest coal-fired power stations in Europe, and was officially opened by Nikita Khrushchev then leader of the Soviet Union. It was closed in September 1994 and demolished in 1996.

Castle Donington has two primary schools, St Edwards and Orchard Primary School, each serving roughly one half of the town. A high school — Castle Donington College, which celebrated its 50th anniversary on 10 September 2007 — takes students from ages 10–14 and then moving on to either Hind Leys Community College or Ashby, as there is no high school in Castle Donington.

East Midlands Airport is served by several major airlines including BMI, whose headquarters are nearby, Ryanair, Jet2.Com, Thomson Airways (who have a training centre at the airport) and many others. DHL also has a base at the airport. Castle Donington is also home to the Donington Park motor racing circuit.
BMI (British Midland), an airline, is headquartered in Donington Hall, Castle Donington. The airline moved its headquarters to Donington Hall in 1982. Excalibur Airways had its head office on the grounds of East Midlands Airport in Castle Donington, as did Orion Airways.

Once a year on May bank holiday Monday a medieval market is held on the main shopping street in Castle Donington. This event comprises local stalls selling various kinds of produce and goods accompanied by dancing and music.
Usually during the last week of October each year the town hosts a travelling fair called Donington Wakes.
On the second Saturday of every month a farmers market is held on the playground of St Edward's C of E primary school.
A very large market known as Donington Sunday Market takes place virtually every Sunday at Donington Park.
Donington Park was the original venue for the Monsters of Rock festivals through the 1980s and 1990s, and is now the home of the annual Download Festival. It also hosted a Formula One Grand Prix – The European Grand Prix – in April 1993, which was won by Ayrton Senna. It was also set to be the home of the British Grand Prix from 2010 for at least 10 years, but the agreement was cancelled due to financial problems. The circuit also hosts the Donington Grand Prix Collection, the world's largest collection of Formula One and Grand Prix vehicles. Brian Henton, an F1 driver, was born in Castle Donington.
The village is easily accessible by public transport and by car as it sits near a slip road connecting it to the M1 at Junction 24. This area itself was the scene of a terrifying ghostly encounter in October 2009. A motorist driving here at around 7.45am was shaken by the sight of a man in a green jacket, dark trousers and headwear standing in the middle lane of the motorway. The driver looked away briefly to check her rear view mirror in an attempt to see if she could safely brake and upon returning her gaze to the road, was shocked to see the figure had vanished.

Whilst Castle Donington may not be as big or as well known as previous blog locations, I was certainly intrigued by what it had to offer. Initially however, things did not quite go according to plan. Having braved 2 buses to reach the village from home, I intended to start my journey at the top of the central hill along which the village is built. Handily, the first and last pubs in the village are at opposite ends of this incline and so I sensibly decided to begin at the top and work my way down. The pub at the top of the hill, The Nags Head, was my planned first destination but this quickly hit a snag when I arrived to find that it was closed and all the lights were off. Further research quickly revealed that there are a number of pubs in the village that are closed in the middle part of the day, presumably to save money during quieter periods. Peeved, but not to be deterred, I decided to reverse my itinerary and trudged down to the bottom of the hill to begin my investigations at the pub that was originally scheduled to be my last for the day. Anxious to get underway, and having found my bearings, I kicked things off at The Lamb Inn.



Owned and run by Marston's, The Lamb is a small, pleasant building with a cream exterior and an interior tastefully decorated in shades of red and cream. A TV, dartboard, fruit machine and jukebox are present, as are 3 older gentlemen playing cards, the day's only other patrons. There is lots of seating throughout with access to both sides of the central bar from doors on either side of the main entrance. The bar is square, with service available on both sides. 4 handpulls occupy the bar, 2 on each side, featuring Marston's Pedigree and Burton Bitter, Jennings Cocker Hoop and Ringwood XXXX Porter. I opted for a pint of the Pedigree, poured by a burly, but very pleasant bar man. I took a seat by  a nearby window, looking out into the room, watching Moto GP highlights on the TV opposite. I admit to being a bit wary when I first entered due to the lack of customers but everyone seemed very pleasant and were happy to keep themselves to themselves. As I took in the surroundings, including the car park and smoking area to the rear, I took a deep sip of the Pedigree, which was very well kept, as you would expect from a premises run by its parent chain. The Lamb Inn has the feel of a friendly community pub, serving regulars from the village but happy to accommodate visitors. I took my time with this particular pint as I refreshed my plan of action. Once the glass was finally empty, I took my leave and moved on.

Further up the street, on the opposite side of the road, was my next destination, The Tudor Hotel.



This family run hotel and restaurant boasts a traditional interior with mock Tudor décor. The ground floor is divided into a restaurant (closed during my visit) and a bar, with the hotel reception located between the two. The restaurant is open between 12-2 and 6-9pm so at the time of my arrival, is not currently serving food. The bar area is a fairly large, open space with lots of seating, a games machine and a fruit machine as well as a TV and a jukebox. The bar is small but well stocked and includes 2 handpulls, on which Doom Bar and Pedigree are normally available however the Doom Bar was off on this occasion. Happy to settle for another pint of Pedigree, I took a seat on one of the stools at the bar whilst my pint was poured by the receptionist who also doubles as bar staff. I was the only customer in the bar at the time of my visit but this didn't put me off too much and I bided my time by getting trounced on the nearby games machine. However, I would have my revenge later. The Pedigree here was also very well looked after and tasty so I was finding little to complain about in Castle Donington so far. Following another defeat at the hands of my electronic opponent and the last drops of my pint going down smoothly, I once again set off. The next phase of my journey involved moving off of the main road and up a neighbouring hill which leads towards the village centre proper. This particular route is considerably steeper than the main path so it is just as well that my next location is situated halfway up.

Billed as a friendly, street corner pub, the next premises on my list is The Jolly Potters.

This is a small, traditional boozer with old décor and the requisite Toby jugs hanging from the ceiling throughout. The main room is small and roughly rectangular with a snug to one side and breweriana placed around the interior. Old books and framed flower cuttings are also in evidence and there is a real fire near to the bar, which is slightly off centre from the main doorway. A few locals are around when I enter and they exchange polite hellos as I peruse the bar. The 4 handpulls are all in use and offering Bass, Pedigree, Doom Bar and Fuller's London Pride. After a brief moment of indecision, I decided on London Pride as I haven't tried it for a while and still have fond memories of my brief spell at Fuller's. I perched myself in the corner snug where I was briefly befriended by two whippets belonging to a local. I always like dog friendly pubs as they tend to be a bit more relaxed, although they do make me wish I had a canine companion of my own. This pub has a very welcoming, homely feel to it and is my favourite place at this stage in the day, helped by the condition of the London Pride which lives up to its name.

As reluctant as I was to pull myself away from the Jolly Potters, I was extremely excited about the place I was going to visit next, even though I had only recently been made aware of its existence. Further up the hill lies the central shopping precinct for Castle Donington and approximately halfway down this street sits a premises that has only been open since April. Introducing Castle Donington's very own micropub, The Chequered Flag.




Named after the device that signals the end of a motor race in honour of the nearby Donington Park circuit, The Chequered Flag is motor racing themed and features racing memorabilia displayed throughout. The original owners have recently sold the business to a local man named Bert and they still pop in regularly to oversee things, as they do during my visit. The day of my visit is the day on which Bert has officially taken over. The main entrance is slightly elevated above the street level and the beer is visible through a small window behind the cash register. The beer is served direct from the casks which are kept in a temperature controlled room to ensure quality. The pub features 4 ales, one of which, Shardlow Reverend Eaton's is always available. The 3 guests on offer during my visit are Burton Bridge Stairway to Heaven and XL Bitter and Scribblers Hoppy Potter and the Goblet of Ale. 7 real ciders are also available, along with a small range of wines. The welcome I am given here is a good one, very friendly and polite and also curious as my identity. This gives way to respect when I make it clear that I have come all the way from Nottingham to try the beer. I started off with the Reverend Eaton's (4.5%), named after a man who was rector of Shardlow for 40 years. This is a smooth, premium bitter, bronze in colour with a hop forward taste and a malty base. It is certainly very well kept. During my time soaking up the atmosphere, I engaged in conversation with the other patrons, all locals and learn a bit more about the area and village as a whole. As I've experienced throughout the day, everyone is very welcoming. I decided that it would be almost rude not to have a second pint here so I went for a pint of Stairway to Heaven (5.0%), pale, smooth and hoppy, brewed with Fuggles and Goldings hops. I immensely enjoyed my time here and it was with a hint of regret that I finished my pint and my way out into the winter evening, with the intention of visiting one more venue before catching the bus home. This meant making my way back down the hill towards the main road. With the evening now fully upon me, I happened to catch a glimpse of the parish church of St. Edward King and Martyr which is located just uphill from the precinct and also has a ghost story associated with it. As the story goes, a brother and sister visiting the church in 1950 to lay flowers spoke at length to a vicar who told them that he had once been based at the church but had left in 1906. Once they returned home and related their tale, they were informed that the vicar had in fact passed away in that year. A suitably creepy tale for this time of year I think!

Having decided to write off The Nags Head due to reasons of distance, the last place on my list for the day was The Cross Keys.




This is a low slung building with a mock Tudor interior and a wide array of seating throughout, to both sides of the main entrance. The seating is a mix of booths and comfy chairs. The bar is U shaped and includes 5 handpulls, 2 of which are not in use. The 3 remaining offer Pedigree, Doom Bar and Bath Ales Gem. Being a fan of Bath Ales, there was no way that I wasn't going to opt for Gem, which was exactly as it should be -- well-kept and delicious. As I enjoyed my pint, I noticed a games machine opposite me and, seeking revenge for earlier, I succeeded in winning £14 from it. Take that machines!

With the last dregs of my pint remaining and the night noticeably colder, I reflected upon the day's events whilst I whiled away the minutes before my bus was due. Castle Donington is by and large a very pleasant place with friendly people and welcoming pubs. Whilst the quantity of ales available is not as wide as elsewhere, the quality is very good indeed! At no point was I left wanting for an improvement in taste and general refreshment from any of the pints I consumed. The range of pubs in the village is varied and interesting in their different approaches to cask ales. Whereas The Lamb and The Cross Keys will do very well with locals and those passing through, The Chequered Flag will certainly gain in popularity through word of mouth both from those in the village and further afield. With micropubs a growing commodity in these times, The Chequered Flag is a welcome addition to the fold and I have no doubt it is in safe hands. If there's one pub you have to visit in Castle Donington, make sure it's this one! If my recommendation is enough to get people down there visiting the pub, and the village in general, then it will only benefit the village, its people, economy and the wider ale community as a whole. Villages like this can offer a lot.

So that's all for this time. I'm hoping to squeeze another trip in between now and New Year but, in the event that time and money prohibit this, I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and best wishes for 2015!

Monday, November 10, 2014

Give It Up For Lenton

For my first proper excursion since I returned to the wonderful city of Nottingham, I decided it was high time that I made the effort to get out to Lenton and explore the available drinking dens, something I'd been planning for a rather long time and am now pleased to say that I have finally achieved. This seemed as good a place as any to begin my regular trips again. I intend to make these trips at least every fortnight to begin with, going back into regular weekly visits once money becomes more stable, Having regular days off certainly helps with the planning. Anyway, to Lenton!

Originally a separate agricultural village, Lenton became part of the town of Nottingham in 1877, when the town's boundaries were enlarged. Nottingham became a city as part of the Diamond Jubilee celebrations of Queen Victoria in 1897. The name Lenton derives from the River Leen, which runs nearby. Lenton and its mills on the Leen get a mention in the Domesday Book in the late 11th century: 'In Lentune, 4 sochmen and 4 bordars have 2 ploughs and a mill'.

Lenton Priory was founded in the village by William Peverel in the 12th Century. A Cluniac monastery, the priory was home to mostly French monks until the late 14th Century when was freed from the control of its French mother-house, Cluny Abbey. From the 13th Century the priory struggled financially and was known for its 'poverty and indebtedness'. The priory was dissolved in 1538 as part of Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries. Following dissolution, the priory was demolished and the lands passed through private hands. The Priory Church of St. Anthony is thought to incorporate elements of the chapel of the priory's hospital. In 2005, Lenton celebrated the nine hundredth anniversary of the foundation of Lenton Priory. The centrepiece of the celebrations was a special festival held in the grounds of Priory Church of St. Anthony on 21st May, 2005.

King Henry II granted permission for the priory to hold an annual fair on The Feast of St. Martin: November 11th. Lenton Fair originally ran for 8 days before being extended to 12. The fair caused numerous disputes with the mayor and burgesses of the town of Nottingham as no markets could be held in the town during the period of the Lenton Fair. In return, the people of Nottingham were given special rates to hire booths at the fair. The Fair continued after the demise of the Priory, though its length was gradually reduced. Its emphasis slowly changed and it was described as a horse-fair in 1584 when servants of Mary, Queen of Scots attended. By the 17th Century, the fair had acquired a reputation as a great fair for all sorts of horses. In the 19th century, it was largely frequented by farmers and horse dealers. The Fair finally ceased at the beginning of the 20th Century.

From the closure of the priory in 1538 until the 18th century, Lenton was primarily a rural agricultural village. In the 1790s, the Nottingham Canal was constructed, passing through the village. This led to industrialisation and population growth, with a number of factories being built and the population increasing from 893 to 3077 between 1801 and 1831. The area known as 'New Lenton' was developed on agricultural land separate from the village to accommodate the expanding residential and industrial needs, both of the village and the town of Nottingham. As with many other villages surrounding Nottingham, many of the residents were involved in the manufacture and trade of lace. Both the University of Nottingham and Queen's Medical Centre are in Lenton.

For such a small area, Lenton has quite a history and a number of interesting pubs as well. It was into this backdrop that I immersed myself on a surprisingly pleasant November afternoon. My first location on this particular endeavour was the Waters Edge.

Named after its convenient location on the bank of the Nottingham Canal, the Waters Edge is a part of Castle Marina Retail Park and is operated by Greene King under its Hungry Horse arm. This means that it has a large emphasis on food but the bar itself is very well stocked. The building is very square and has two entrances, a main entrance in the adjoining car park and an entrance direct to the bar that faces onto the canal. Internally, the layout is large and square with a wide variety of seating including booths, high tables and chairs, lower tables, a canalside area of large picnic tables and some more lunge-chair like contraptions decorated with faux cow skin. The large, central bar is horseshoe shaped and provides service to 3 sides. Th bar is brimming with lager and cider taps but also includes 2 handpulls offering IPA and Old Speckled Hen. I decided on IPA as a nice opener to the day. This did not go according to plan however as the member of staff that served me was either unable to read or couldn't tell the pumps apart and poured me Old Speckled Hen instead. It's times like this that I wish I wasn't too polite to complain. The saving grace was that the Old Speckled Hen was well kept. That's not the point though. If the bar staff don't know what they're doing, it makes you wonder what else might be wrong. The beer was OK though and I was in a good mood, helped by the fact that the weather was better than you would expect for a Tuesday in November. I pulled up one of the aforementioned cow-skin chairs and enjoyed my pint, whilst watching a very cute toddler intermittently try and get behind the bar. Say what you like about Nottingham, we do get them drinking young.

My next destination was a little bit of a walk away, over the nearby Abbey Bridge, the bottom of which is currently a maze of road works and traffic cones, due to the still ongoing construction of new tram routes which will eventually be finished sometime this century. Amongst the mess and the construction machinery sits the White Hart.

The White Hart originally began its life as Lenton Coffee House back in the eighteenth century when premises of this type were very popular. An area across Nottingham Park was a bowling green for customers of the coffee house. Original mounting blocks, believed to date from this period are still present outside the main entrance to the pub. There are a number of grisly incidents associated with this building, most notably in 1793 when an unpopular republican named Thomas Paine was hanged from a tree branch in the village by a group of men, following a mock trial in the prison that once stood behind the inn. The executioners then retired to the building following their exertions. The White hart is named after the royal badge of King Richard II, although when it was first named is not clear. The prison in question was the Court of the Honour of Peveril and had an awful reputation. It was the job of this court to investigate debtors and if they were found guilty, they were simply locked up and left destitute with no clothing or food. Until 1316, this court was held in the Chapel of St. James in Nottingham, before relocating to the Shire Hall and then the White Hart, where it remained until 1849. These ghastly events are believed to have left their impression upon the fabric of the building. A dark figure has been spotted by staff around the building and the sound of disembodied footsteps has been heard on upper floors, attributed with no clear evidence, to a jailer. The White Hart also sits on part of the site of the original Lenton Priory and archaeological evidence of this has been found beneath the foundations. Henry VIII originally tried to close in 1534 but the monks were able to resist until 1538 when access was finally gained. In punishment, 8 monks were hanged. All of this history is well hidden beneath the cream exterior and its tall windows. The interior is plush with lots of seating. One corner includes a pool table and the bar is roughly central and J shaped. There is a glass cabinet in the centre of the pub containing old photos and memorabilia from the local area. The bar features 3 hand pumps, offering Abbot Ale, Old Speckled Hen and Goddard's Scrum Diggity. Being a fan of Goddard's brewery, especially as they're based on the Isle of Wight which is very close to my neck of the woods, I went for the Scrum Diggity (4.0%), a golden ale with a mild, hoppy aroma, a nice citrus and biscuit balance on the palate and a dry finish. It was very tasty and i pulled up a chair in the window, enjoying the mid-afternoon sunshine and soaking up the atmosphere.

Next on my list was the first of 2 pubs that I was especially looking forward too. Tucked away down nearby Priory Street is The Boat Inn.

This is a traditional pub with original stained glass windows to the front. Inside, the place is packed with memorabilia and breweriana, mostly of a nautical theme including an entire wall in the smaller of two rooms decorated with photographs of sailors. The Boat is currently run by Angela and Tony Cooper, assisted ably by their dalmatian Pongo. The earliest reference to the Boat is in White's 1832 Nottingham directory, which also lists Richard Widdison as landlord. The Boat was licensed as a beerhouse which meant that beer and wines could be dispensed but not spirits or strong liquour. This class of public house had only recently come into being following the passage of the Beerhouse Act of 1830, so in all probability, it was Mr. Widdison who launched The Boat. In January 1838, local newspapers reported a tragedy. For many years, Mrs. Widdison had suffered from an illness that saw her branded a lunatic. This required her to be kept confined in an upstairs room at The Boat. One evening, a servant carrying food up to Mrs. Widdison, found that the room was on fire. Despite Mr. Widdison's frantic efforts to douse the flames, he was unable to save his wife whose body was discovered burned to a cinder. An inquest was unable to determine whether or not the fire was an accident. The Boat was put up for sale in 1884 and eventually sold for £1,325 although papers did not reveal the buyer. Home Brewery bought the pub in 1916 and it was rebuilt in 1922-23. In the 1970s, the pub was restructured to give the layout as seen today. The pub is arranged into 2 rooms, one featuring the bar and a smaller room to one side, containing a dartboard. The toilets are situated to the rear of the smaller room. The bar sits to the left of the main entrance and includes 6 hand pulls. One of these is out of use during my visit but the others feature Doom Bar, Hobgoblin, Bombardier, Deuchars IPA and their own Boat Inn Quaffing Ale. I began with a pint of Hobgoblin and took a seat on a long sofa in the smaller one whilst I absorbed my surroundings. The Hobgoblin on this occasion wasn't the best. It had more than the slightest hint of vinegar, a suggestion that the barrel may have been close to going. Whilst I dealt with this unfortunate turn of events, I overheard the landlady chatting to some regulars, where I was able to glean yet more historical information about the pub. Apparently, the Boat sits on the site of the former abbey church and contains a wall at the back of the garden that is original and listed as part of the former abbey grounds. Having finished my sadly sub-standard Hobgoblin, I relocated to a spot at the bar in hopes of learning more, biding my time with a pint of Doom Bar, which was excellent. I also took the opportunity to befriend the resident dalmatian, who was very friendly.

With time drawing on, I still had one more location to visit. This was a place that Matt had been raving about and badgering me to go too for months so I was prepared to make the effort to finally break my duck and visit The Johnson Arms, situated back on the main road and behind the rear entrance to QMC.

Originally known as The Abbey Tavern, The Johnson Arms is named after the man who purchased the premises in 1904. Unhappy with the original layout, he chose to demolish the existing buildings and build new ones, a task he began in 1912. He submitted new plans to the council consideration and these were accepted, changing very little over the years, even after the pub was purchased by Shipstones in 1953. When Grace Sanders, the long serving landlady, retired in 1981 after 34 years at the helm, Shipstones and their appointed successors decided to modernise the pub, by way of removing internal walls, repositioning the bar and a full internal refit. The garden took a lot longer to redevlop as planned alterations had to be put back when the initial refit went overbudget due to important work that was required on the foundations. The huge pear tree at the centre of the garden has been there at least since the time of Abbey Tavern and is the pub's crowning glory. The pub is very popular with students, employees of nearby businesses and hard-working staff at the nearby hospital. My first visit had certainly been long in coming and it was worth the wait. The traditional exterior gives way to a split level interior, with a raised area to the left hand side and a standard seating area to the right. The bar sits roughly central and includes 6 hand pulls. One is not in use but the others feature a wide range, in this case Doom Bar, Welbeck Abbey Henrietta Grande, Abbeydale Deception, Dancing Duck Dark Drake and Adnams Southwold Bitter. I was instantly drawn to Deception (4.2%), pale, with a dry, hoppy aroma a citrus taste and a fruity aftertaste. I'm very glad that I finally made the effort to come out to The Johnson. The atmosphere is one of comfort and welcome and there is a painting of an exploding TARDIS on one of the walls which made the experience all the more exciting.

I spent a while here, enjoying my pint and the surroundings, pleased that I can do this kind of thing again. In the end, as always, it was time for me to make my weary way home. Eyes slightly glazed, head slightly foggy, but overall very content, I made my way out into the encroaching November darkness and wandered back into town for my bus. My opinion of Lenton is two-fold. Firstly, the amount of history for such a small location is remarkable and this is emphasized in the history and atmosphere of its fine pubs, the majority of which are welcoming and homely. Secondly, the area as a whole is one of interest and I'm wondering how many people have never been for a closer look. It's definitely worth making the effort to explore The Boat Inn and The Johnson Arms at the very least, even for a one off. On a personal level, I will definitely go and visit these particular venues again. Hopefully, once the infernal tram works are eventually complete, more people will take the time to investigate this small area of this fine city. It's worth it, I promise you that. I apologise again for the lack of photos in this edition. I',m using a different laptop that I haven't quite got to grips with. Fingers crossed, after my next excursion, which I intend to be next week, I'll be able to provide visual records of these trips on a regular basis. Until then, keep drinking! Cheers!