Hello again! And a very much belated happy new year! Welcome to 2023, where strange things are in the skies and the cost of everything continues to rise. It's not all doom and gloom however. As you have no doubt noticed, my plan to squeeze in a final trip before the end of 2022 didn't quite pan out and, due in large part to a self-imposed cutback on alcohol consumption in January, it wasn't until last week that I could properly get out and explore. But, as I hope you'll agree, the wait was worth it to get this particular trip in the books. Last week, to celebrate my birthday, Amy and I headed down to the capital for some much needed time off, and to revisit a city that we both love. This was actually our third trip in the last 9 months but would be the first one to feature in the blog. We had a couple of activities planned for our stay, which was our first ever 2 night stay in London as opposed to the single nights we'd done in the past. One of these activities was an exploration of some of London's most historic pubs in a well known area of the city. Aside from that, we had a theatre show booked and another excursion which saw us immersing ourselves in one of London's most (in)famous locations. Settle in and join us now for what will certainly not be the last London trip to get a mention here, but has the privilege of being the very first.
We arrived in London, on a not unpleasant Wednesday afternoon, having journeyed down by National Express coach. This has now become our preferred method of travel to the capital, ostensibly because of the prohibitive cost and current unreliability of trains. Arriving ahead of schedule, we disembarked at Marble Arch and, following a brief sojourn down Oxford Street, navigated the Tube from Oxford Circus. Braving the District Line at lunchtime seemed like a foolish exercise but, though the train was busy, we didn't have any major issues, barring the fact that the underground was uncomfortably hot. Baring in mind it's February, I hate to imagine how thousands of commuters coped in the oppressive heat of our most recent summer. As it's been on more than one previous occasion, our base for our stay was a Premier Inn on Tower Bridge Road, just down the road from the eponymous landmark and an approximate 10 minute from the closest tube station at Tower Hill. From this we now emerged. After a morning of travelling, and with about half an hour to spare before we could check in, we were very much in need of a pint. Luckily, Tower Bridge Road happens to be occupied by a couple of places that would do the trick. Given the choice between a Wetherspoons, a Brewdog premises or an independent, we settled for the latter. Crossing over the road, we were about to slake our thirst at The Raven.
By this stage, although it was only mid-afternoon, there seemed to be a few people about, either milling about on the Embankment itself or wandering around Covent Garden. We explored the fabulous market space, with it's designer shops, high-end restaurants and live musicians (in this case, a string quartet), popped into a shop that only sold Moomin-themed products and got our bearings in relation to both the theatre and the restaurant we'd be eating. If you've ever been to London, you'll know that Covent Garden, like most of the city, is a high foot traffic area and, luckily, happens to be very well served with drinking establishments. One of these, is situated within the market building itself and looks out over the famous Covent Garden piazza. This seemed like a perfectly atmospheric spot for a drink and so we entered the Punch & Judy.
Despite being disappointed with my most recent beer, it wasn't going to spoil our day. Leaving the Punch & Judy, we headed back into the market for our food reservation at Buns & Buns, a Chinese street food restaurant, in its own glass pavilion, that is mostly known for serving excellent bao buns. We can confirm that their food is excellent. We shared some pulled pork and duck buns between us and we would heartily recommend it. Price-wise, it's pretty reasonable too! With the show not starting for another hour or so, and our food polished off, we needed to find somewhere close by to have a drink beforehand. As mentioned above, Covent Garden has no shortage of decent pubs and we managed to find one just around the corner from the theatre at the Bow Street Tavern.
Known as the 'Upper Flask' in order to differentiate it from a pub of the same name in nearby Hampstead, this 17th century pub was originally two buildings but has since been combined into one. Formerly an M&B property, Fullers acquired it in 2009 and still operate it. 18th century painter, engraver and satirist William Hogarth is believed to been a regular, along with Karl Marx, although obviously not at the same time. The 'Swearing of the Horns' ceremony takes place here annually. The pub is now Grade II listed and features an asphalted front yard, with a covered seating area. Inside, the pub is split over several small levels, divided up by small flights of steps. The main entrance leads to all areas, with the main bar situated to the left and another area on the right primarily used for dining. Furniture is scrubbed wood and decor is exposed brickwork and low beams. The two sections of the pub, though now joined were previously separate. Further enhancements were made in the 1930s with the pub expanding considerably to both the rear and the left. There are sash windows that are likely to be original. We arrived here a couple of minutes before opening but were soon making our way inside, behind a larger group who were here for lunch. Within a few seconds, we had found the main bar, with the resplendent sight of a bank of 5 handpulls before us. Fullers beers were well represented but these were accompanied by guest beers. The full range of choices was Small Beer Steam Ale, Moor Beer Steady Walker, Fuller's London Pride, Dark Star Hophead and Fuller's ESB. As I had so far not had any Fuller's beer on this trip, I chose the London Pride, which is always excellent when found close to the source. Amy went for craft beer this time, specifically Lightbulb from Cornwall's Verdant and we found a table just next to the bar, where we could look out over the yard and borrow some electricity to charge our phones. The Flask proved to be an excellent spot to get our breath and our energy back, and revitalise ourselves for the afternoon we had ahead. It would end up being one of our favourite pubs of the day. The relaxed atmosphere and attractive surroundings, in what is a picturesque part of North London, added to our feelings of joy. There are tales of more sinister things here though. A Spanish barmaid, who took her own life after being jilted by her lover, is believed to be responsible for the poltergeist activity that has been reported here. There are also sightings of a phantom highwayman, seen disappearing into one of the pillars. Could this be connected to tales of Dick Turpin using the pub's stables and cellars as a hiding place? Who knows? Until fairly recently, a monk-like figure was reported to appear on a bench, staring directly at customers before disappearing. This activity apparently ceased after the so called 'Monk's Bench' was removed from the premises.
The street has been an important through route since Roman times. During the Middle Ages, businesses were established and senior clergy lived there; several churches remain from this time including Temple Church and St Bride's. The street became known for printing and publishing at the start of the 16th century, and it became the dominant trade so that by the 20th century most British national newspapers operated from here. Much of that industry moved out in the 1980s after News International set up cheaper manufacturing premises in Wapping, but some former newspaper buildings are listed and have been preserved. The term Fleet Street remains a metonym for the British national press, and pubs on the street once frequented by journalists remain popular.
Fleet Street has a significant number of monuments and statues along its length, including the dragon at Temple Bar and memorials to a number of figures from the British press, such as Samuel Pepys and Lord Northcliffe. The street is mentioned in several works by Charles Dickens and is the home of the fictional murderer Sweeney Todd. Fleet Street is named after the River Fleet, which runs from Hampstead to the River Thames at the western edge of the City of London. It is one of the oldest roads outside the original city and was established by the Middle Ages. In the 13th century, it was known as Fleet Bridge Street, and in the early 14th century it became known as Fleet Street.
The street runs east from Temple Bar, the boundary between the Cities of London and Westminster, as a continuation of the Strand from Trafalgar Square. It crosses Chancery Lane and Fetter Lane to reach Ludgate Circus by the London Wall. The road ahead is Ludgate Hill. The street numbering runs consecutively from west to east south-side and then east to west north-side. It links the Roman and medieval boundaries of the City after the latter was extended. The section of Fleet Street between Temple Bar and Fetter Lane is part of the A4, a major road running west through London, although it once ran along the entire street and eastwards past St Paul's Churchyard towards Cannon Street.
Fleet Street was established as a thoroughfare in Roman London and there is evidence that a route led west from Ludgate by 200 AD. Local excavations revealed remains of a Roman amphitheatre near Ludgate on what was Fleet Prison, but other accounts suggest the area was too marshy for regular inhabitation by the Romans. The Saxons did not occupy the Roman city but established Lundenwic further west around what is now Aldwych and the Strand.
Many prelates lived around the street during the Middle Ages, including the Bishops of Salisbury and St Davids and the Abbots of Faversham, Tewkesbury, Winchcombe and Cirencester. Tanning of animal hides became established on Fleet Street owing to the nearby river, though this increased pollution leading to a ban on dumping rubbish by the mid-14th century. Many taverns and brothels were established along Fleet Street and have been documented as early as the 14th century. Records show that Geoffrey Chaucer was fined two shillings for attacking a friar in Fleet Street, though modern historians believe this is apocryphal.
An important landmark in Fleet Street during the late Middle Ages was a conduit that was the main water supply for the area. When Anne Boleyn was crowned queen following her marriage to Henry VIII in 1533, the conduit flowed wine instead of water. By the 16th century, Fleet Street, along with much of the City, was chronically overcrowded, and a royal proclamation in 1580 banned any further building on the street. This had little effect, and construction continued, particularly timber. Prince Henry's Room over the Inner Temple gate dates from 1610 and is named after Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I, who did not survive to succeed his father. The eastern part of the street was destroyed by the Great Fire of London in 1666, despite attempts to use the River Fleet to preserve it. Fire damage reached to about Fetter Lane, and the special tribunal of the 'Fire Courts' was held at Clifford's Inn, an inn of Chancery at the edge of the extent of the fire, to arbitrate on claimants' rights. Properties were rebuilt in the same style as before the fire.
During the early 18th century, a notorious upper-class gang known as the Mohocks operated on the street causing regular violence and vandalism. Mrs Salmon's Waxworks was established at Prince Henry's Room in 1711. It had a display of macabre and black-humoured exhibits, including the execution of Charles I; a Roman lady, Hermonie, whose father survived a sentence of starvation by sucking her breast; and a woman who gave birth to 365 children simultaneously. The waxworks were a favourite haunt of William Hogarth, and survived into the 19th century. The Apollo Society, a music club, was established in 1733 at the Devil Tavern on Fleet Street by composer Maurice Greene.
In 1763, supporters of John Wilkes, who had been arrested for libel against the Earl of Bute, burned a jackboot in the centre of the street in protest against Bute. It led to violent demonstrations and rioting in 1769 and 1794.
Tanning and other industries declined sharply after the River Fleet was routed underground in 1766. The street was widened during the late-19th century, when Temple Bar was demolished and Ludgate Circus was constructed. The headquarters of the Anti-Corn Law League were based at No. 67 Fleet Street, and a blue plaque marks the location.
Publishing started in Fleet Street around 1500 when William Caxton's apprentice, Wynkyn de Worde, set up a printing shop near Shoe Lane, while at around the same time Richard Pynson set up as publisher and printer next to St Dunstan's Church. More printers and publishers followed, mainly supplying the legal trade in the four Inns of Court around the area, but also publishing books and plays.
In March 1702 the first issue of London's first daily newspaper, the Daily Courant, was published in Fleet Street. It was followed by the Morning Chronicle. The publisher John Murray was founded at No. 32 Fleet Street in 1762 and remained there until 1812, when it moved to Albemarle Street. The popularity of newspapers was restricted due to various taxes during the early 19th century, particularly paper duty. Peele's Coffee-House at No. 177–178 Fleet Street became popular and was the main committee room for the Society for Repealing the Paper Duty, starting in 1858. The society was successful and the duty was abolished in 1861. Along with the repeal of the newspaper tax in 1855, this led to a dramatic expansion of newspaper production in Fleet Street. The "penny press" (newspapers costing one penny) became popular during the 1880s and the initial number of titles had consolidated into a few nationally important ones.
By the 20th century, Fleet Street and the area surrounding it were dominated by the national press and related industries. The Daily Express relocated to No. 121–8 Fleet Street in 1931, into a building designed by Sir Owen Williams. It was the first curtain wall building in London. It has survived the departure of the newspaper in 1989 and was restored in 2001. The Daily Telegraph was based at No. 135–142. These premises are both Grade II-listed. In the 1930s, No. 67 housed 25 separate publications; by this time the majority of British households bought a daily paper produced from Fleet Street.
In 1986 News International owner Rupert Murdoch caused controversy when he moved publication of The Times and The Sun away from Fleet Street to new premises in Wapping, East London. Murdoch believed it was impossible to produce a newspaper profitably on Fleet Street and the power of the print unions, the National Graphical Association (NGA) and the Society of Graphical and Allied Trades (SOGAT), was too strong (an opinion endorsed by the Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher). All Fleet Street print staff were sacked and new staff from the Electrical, Electronic, Telecommunications and Plumbing Union were brought in to operate the presses at Wapping using modern computer-operated technology, rendering the power of the old unions obsolete. The resulting Wapping dispute featured violent protests at Fleet Street and Wapping that lasted over a year, but ultimately other publishers followed suit and moved out of Fleet Street towards Canary Wharf or Southwark. Reuters was the last major news outlet to leave Fleet Street, in 2005. In the same year, The Daily Telegraph and Sunday Telegraph announced they were returning to the centre of London from Canary Wharf to new premises in Victoria in 2006.
Some publishers have remained on Fleet Street. The London office of D.C. Thomson & Co., creator of The Beano, is at No. 185. The Secretariat of the Commonwealth Broadcasting Association is at No. 17, as is Wentworth Publishing, an independent publisher of newsletters and courses. The Associated Press has an office in Fleet Street as did The Jewish Chronicle until 2013 when it moved to Golders Green. The British Association of Journalists is based at No. 89 while Metro International are at No. 85.
Though many prominent national newspapers have moved away from Fleet Street, the name is still synonymous with the printing and publishing industry. In the adjacent St. Brides Lane is the St Bride Library, holding a specialist collection relating to the type and print industry and providing courses in printing technology and methods. On the wall of Magpie Alley, off Bouverie Street, is a mural depicting the history of newspapers in the area.
The last two journalists to work for the Dundee-based Sunday Post, left in 2016, as the paper closed its London offices.
With so much history contained in just one small area of London, I had a good feeling that the afternoon was going to be a few hours well spent in the heart of the capital. Leaving Temple tube station, from where ironically, we had made our return journey from Covent Garden the night before, it was only a short walk to our first stop. Tucked away, off of the main road, in Devereux Court, is the pub simply known as The Devereux.
Our next stop lies just door to the Devereux and seemed strangely familiar to me. It was only when we entered that I realised that I'd been there before, many years ago before I met Amy. Without further ado, it was time to reacquaint myself with the Edgar Wallace.
It was so far, so good and our next step was only a short walk away. We had originally planned to visit the Temple Brew House just up the road but as this didn't open until much later in the day, and we wouldn't be coming back this way, we were forced to skip it and instead progressed straight to the next location on our list, situated just around the corner and opposite the Royal Courts of Justice. Time now to visit The George.
The next pub on the day's itinerary was one that I'd been especially looking forward to, for the sheer scale of the place if nothing else. Leaving the George, we crossed the road to where the next location stands, a great, big hulk of a building, next to the Law Courts. Next stop: The Old Bank of England.
It was back over the road now for something altogether different. What would we discover at Ye Olde Cock Tavern.
This Grade II listed building was originally built in 1549, although it was originally on the other side of the road before being moved in 1880 to make way for the building that is now the Old Bank of England. The pub boasts the narrowest pub entrance in all of London and a ground floor frontage that has been attributed to world famous wood carver Grinling Gibbons, whose work has featured at Windsor Castle, Hampton Court Palace and St. Paul's Cathedral amongst others. The interior is narrow right to the very rear and parts of it were sympathetically restored from photographs in 1990 after a small fire. Throughout its history, the pub has been frequented by several well-known literary names including Samuel Pepys, Alfred, Lord Tennyson and Charles Dickens and, to this day, is the meeting place for the world's oldest and most famous free speech and debating club, the Cogers, who meet on the second Monday of each month. The pub's name comes from Cock Ale, once served on the premises. This popular beverage was a normal ale, brewed inside a container, to which was added a bag stuffed with a parboiled, skinned and gutted cockerel, along with various herbs and spices. Despite evidence to the contrary now, at the time the drink was said to be a great aid to general health and even an aphrodisiac. Internally, very little has changed from the pub's early days. Dark wood panelling, bare brick and ceilings of various heights are accompanied by old photos of the area, as well as a mezzanine to the rear supported by oak beams. A James I era fireplace and a Grinling Gibbons mantlepiece are also believed to still be in situ. The bar, which occupies one side of the building, has 8 handpulls. The pub is another in Greene King estate so features their beers and, pleasingly, also offers guests from local breweries. On the day that Amy and I visited this fascinating property, 4 of these handpulls were operational, with a choice of Portobello APA, Portobello Chestnut Ale, Morland Old Speckled Hen and Greene King Yardbird. Local beer again won me over and I went for the APA (5%), a traditional American pale ale that provides a big hit of fruity flavours from the inclusion of Simcoe and Amarillo hops. Amy once again ordered a soft drink and we took a seat at a table just along from the bar. I'd heard many a good thing about this pub, not least because of its history. It was cool to finally experience it in person and witness the history for ourselves. Amy really liked the place too. Ye Olde Cock is definitely what I imagine when I picture a traditional London pub. There's a great ghost story associated with this place. One day in the 1980s, a member of bar staff was terrified by a smiling, disembodied head that appeared directly in front of her as she stood at the back of the building. By all accounts, her scream was heard throughout the pub. She later recognised the face she had seen in a painting of the writer Oliver Goldsmith, who had once been a regular, and whose portrait hangs above the staircase that leads down to the toilets. Whether he has appeared since this day or any other activity occurs is a matter of speculation.
There was yet more of London's history to be found in the next pub. A couple of minutes walk further down Fleet Street, in the shadow of the impressive St. Bride's Church, is The Old Bell.
This Grade II listed Nicholson's pub is believed to have first been built for Sir Christopher Wren to cater for the masons working on the rebuilding of St. Bride's Church following the Great Fire of London. A crossed knife and fork, set in brass, adorned the front entrance until the 80s and was originally installed as a sign for the illiterate workmen. The bar is central and U-shaped, the floors bare wood and the walls half panelled. A small snug area is tucked into one corner, which also contains a glass fronted cabinet filled with books and local artefacts. Old photos and press cuttings are framed on the walls. The front features a carved period window. The back of the pub overlooks St. Bride's churchyard and the church, whose tiered spire inspired the traditional tiered design of wedding cakes. 4 handpulls adorn the bar, all of which were in use when we arrived, offering 3 ales and a cider. Beer choices were Hog's Back T.E.A., Nicholson's Pale Ale and Fuller's London Pride, with Westons Rosie's Pig filling the cider category. It had been some time since I'd had any beer from Hog's Back and T.E.A. is always a reliable tipple. On this occasion, Amy went back onto cider and we found ourselves a table in the snug area. The Old Bell was rather busy and, with evening now upon us, the whole area around this end of the city would be bustling. This is a very comfortable pub. As with many of the Nicholson's chain, the emphasis is on a homely and welcoming feel. The beer was certainly welcoming. T.E.A (Traditional English Ale) (4.3%) is Hog's Back take on a traditional English bitter. It's amber in colour, with malt flavour to the fore, balanced hop notes and a lingering malt sweetness. It was tempting to stay here longer. Other people clearly were of a similar mindset, particularly the woman sat next to us who was watching A New Life in the Sun on her tablet. However, there was much exploring still to do and so it was back to the grind.
Our next stop saw us continuing further down Fleet Street. A few yards away, on the right hand side, is the Punch Tavern.
Another Grade II listed building in these parts, the Punch Tavern was originally built in 1839 and then rebuilt in stages between 1894-1897. Originally a traditional London gin palace, it still retains a drinking corridor inside the main entrance. The pub was previously known as the Crown & Sugar Loaf but changed its name to reflect its association with regulars drinkers who worked at Punch Magazine, based nearby. As befitting the name, carved images of Punch & Judy can be seen throughout, including one above the entrance. Internally, there are two rooms. The front room is the main bar, with a J-shaped bar counter, banquette seating and ornate, gilded mirrors around the wall. The rear dining room is longer and more dimly lit and can be privately hired. There are 3 handpulls on the bar and, when we were there, 2 of these were available, leaving me facing a choice between Timothy Taylor Landlord and Fuller's London Pride. I opted for the former and Amy went for lime and soda. The pub was very busy, reflecting that most offices had likely closed for the day and so it was very much standing room only. We perched at the end of the bar, taking in what a strange and quirky little place this. There's something about maniacally grinning Mr. Punch that can be a bit disconcerting, especially when there are several versions of him leering down from multiple directions. The Landlord was of a decent standard so the trip was certainly not wasted.
We had by now reached the end of Fleet Street but our day was not yet done. Taking a slight right onto New Bridge Street, we arrived at our next destination to find it already swarming with punters inside and out. Not to be deterred, we took a deep breath and dived into the Albion.
Formerly an O'Neill's and also once known as the Forester & Firkin, the Albion is a Young's tied house, acquired from Mitchells and Butler and subsequently refurbished. Until 1985, the pub had a cider only licence and was likely the last cider house in the City. Accessed from doors at either end, the bar sits snugly in one corner, with seating throughout. A staircase to one side leads to dining space upstairs. The decor is a combination of bare boards, sofas and chandeliers. Being a Young's pub, it won't be a surprise to learn that the beer is from the Young's portfolio. The 4 handpulls on the bar were doubled up when we were there, with Young's Original on half and the other half given over to Young's Special. It was the second of these options that appealed to me the most, with Amy opting to stay on soft drinks for now. We again found ourselves standing at the bar, as the pub, and consequently all the seating, was full with lots of it reserved for after work drinkers. It didn't stem my enjoyment of the beer though. At 4.5%, Young's Special is a full flavoured amber ale with flavours of toasted malt, stewed apples and pears and earthy hops before ending with a dry finish. It's not a beer I'd had before but one I would certainly be seeking out again.
We were heading towards the business end of our day's activities now but still had a quartet of pubs to get through. Having forced our way out of the Albion, we crossed the road and continued a short way down Ludgate Hill, in the direction of St. Paul's Cathedral. In the shadow of Wren's masterpiece, we located Ye Olde London.
This Greene King pub, formerly operated under the Taylor Walker brand, was previously known as the Bell, Book & Candle, before reverting to its original name. Split across two levels, the ground floor features a long bar to one side with seating throughout, including drinking ledges overlooking a central staircase that leads to the basement bar. Downstairs is flagged flooring and bare brick with dimmed lighting and arches. Whilst we didn't deign to venture downstairs, the ground floor was pleasant enough. The 4 handpulls on the bar offered a selection from St. Austell Tribute, Greene King IPA (doubled up) and Greene King Abbot. I don't know what persuaded me to choose the Abbot but choose it I did and I was well rewarded for my selection. Tied houses should at least serve their own beer well and that was definitely the case here. The Abbot was in great condition. We managed to purloin some chairs at one of the beer shelves, overlooking the staircase, whilst we imbibed on our latest selections. The even was going swimmingly.
The sun had well and truly set by this point of the day which certainly made for an atmospheric walk for the penultimate leg of our journey. Retracing our steps every so slightly, we turned into Old Bailey, home of the eponymous courts, built on the former site of the infamous Newgate Prison. Almost directly opposite this stone edifice, under the watchful eyes of justice, lies the Magpie & Stump.
The present pub was built as a replacement for a mock-Tudor style pub that was built in the 1930s. The present style veers towards Art Deco, with minimalist features inside. The first floor of the building was previously a private room which could be rented out for the wealthy to watch public executions taking place outside the prison that once stood opposite. The interior is split level with a flight of stairs leading up to the bar, which takes up all of one wall. The overall layout is relatively open plan, with a smattering of high stools opposite the bar and comfier seating beyond. The bar also has 2 handpulls, but unfortunately these weren't in use when we arrived. However, the bar also has an impressive keg wall which meant we still had some options. With Guinness available as a standard option, the other choices were certainly more in the craft beer neck of the woods. There were lagers: BBNo. Pils, Stiegl Goldbrau, Paulaner and Brooklyn Amber; pale ales in the form of DEYA Steady Rolling Man, Gipsy Hill Bandit, Lervig Loudspeaker, Fourpure Hazy Pale and Drop Project Fika Pale; IPAs represented by Tiny Rebel Clwb Tropica, Fourpure Session IPA and Drop Project Crush Session NEIPA and even Lucky Saint Lager as an alcohol free option. Whilst this place wasn't entirely what we'd expected, we were both able to find something to wet our whistles. I decided on the Loudspeaker from Lervig, whilst Amy went for the Clwb Tropica. We found ourselves standing at the bar again as all the seats were taken but, all the same, by this time we were used to it. We enjoyed our beers whilst discussing the apparent ubiquity of Guinness in London. Every pub we'd been in had stocked it by this point, even the Magpie & Stump, which definitely didn't seem like the sort of place you'd expect to find it. What I had expected to find here though, was good beer and I was in luck. From Lervig, out of Stavanger in Norway, Loudspeaker (5.2%) is a hoppy, citrusy, juicy bomb, brewed with Enigma and Galaxy for unmistakeable flavours of tropical fruit and a full bodied mouthfeel.
There were two pubs left on the day's excursion and, conveniently, the first of these was directly opposite. The second, and last, Fullers pub of the day was the Viaduct Tavern.
Originally built in 1874-5 and then remodelled in 1898-1900, the Viaduct Tavern is a Grade II listed building that was formerly an Ind Coope Nicholson's premises but is now tied to Fullers. The name comes from the proximity of the Holborn Viaduct, completed in 1869. There are multiple outside doors, the remnants of a time when the pub was divided into smaller drinking areas. The interior is now one large space, with the bar front and centre. Decoratively, the pub is a sight to behold and a testament to the creativity of the fin de siecle pub building boom. Etched, gilded and cut glass panels to the rear remain intact, as does the small, glazed in office area to the rear of the servery that would have been used for administration. The ceiling, with its swirling relief panels, is impressive as is the bar counter, with its bold, arched decoration. An unusual sliding door separates the pub from the living quarters above. The cellars of the house the remains of some of the original Newgate Prison cells, which can be viewed by appointment at quiet times. Also still in residence are, if the stories are to be believed, a spirit or two. The temperature of the pub has been known to drop for no reason, strange noises are often heard when the pub is quiet and, on one occasion in the 1990s, a former landlord found himself locked in the cellar by an unseen force that held the door shut. The cellar is known for strange sensations and odd feelings, and is believed to be where bodies of those executed at Newgate Prison were laid out prior to burial. Indeed, the fountain outside the pub marks the spot where people were publicly hanged. To this day, strange things are reported, to the point where a sign in the gents toilets informs patrons of the hand dryer's tendency to go off by itself, thought to be the resident ghost, nicknamed 'Fred', saying hello. The Viaduct is a very active place, both spiritually and physically, and it was rammed when we got there. Luckily, we were able to get to the bar an peruse our choices. 3 of the 4 handpulls were in use with some expected choices from the Fuller's range in London Pride and Gale's Seafarers but also a guest beer in the shape of BBNo. 11 Session IPA. It is the BBNo. to which I gravitated and Amy did the same before we found a spot to one side of the bar on which to lean. This place is fantastic! The beer was ace. Hoppy, fruity and well balanced as well as being very refreshing. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, if you want a spot to enjoy a cracking beer and have a nosy at some wonderful pub architecture, you could do much worse than pay this place a visit. Just don't expect it to be quiet!
We had one more place that we wanted to go before we called it a night and this was a little bit further afield, although it was in the general vicinity of our hotel. Jumping back onto the tube at St. Paul's, we made the relatively short journey over towards Spitalfields. There, on Commercial Street, should you be so inclined, you can find the infamous Ten Bells.
Following a good night's sleep and a later start, we bid farewell to our hotel the following morning and made our way, again via the tube, to Victoria Coach Station for the return journey. With a couple of hours leeway before the coach was due to depart, we had time to finish our adventures in a place that we've visited on our past few trips, due to its proximity to the coach station. We would say goodbye to London with a pint at the Travellers Tavern.
It had been a great couple of days. These regular birthdays trips are good for the mind and soul. We'd had lots of fun, explored lots of great pubs, drank some fantastic beers and identified some things to do next time. London never disappoints. There's so much history to explore and so much to unravel that it's impossible to get bored. Best of all, this was only the tip of the iceberg. There are still many more things to do down in the big smoke. This is by no means the last London trip that will find it's way here. More are already in the planning. If they turn out to be as half as good this one, then they'll be sensational. London can be intimidating but it can also be rewarding. As much as it impressed, it leaves me with more questions. What next? What else is there to discover? Are the pubs we investigated indicative of London life as a whole or a mere snapshot of a bigger picture? Why can nobody in London put toilets on the ground floor? I'm confident that the best is yet to come.
*Answers to the question in The Devereux: Abba (Waterloo) and Shaggy (Angel).
