A Load of Bull

For my latest excursion I took a trip out last week to a destination that lies outside of Nottingham city centre but is easily reachable by public transport. I knew I was taking a risk as the location in question has garnered something of a reputation, not always for positive reasons, but I was eager to see whether this has had any kind of an effect on the local drinking scene. The destination of which I speak ended up not being as bad as I was concerned it could be and provided an intriguing afternoon out. This is the story of my trip to Bulwell.

Bulwell is a market town about 4.5 miles (7 km) northwest of Nottingham city centre, on the northern edge of the city. The United Kingdom Census 2001 showed there were almost 30,000 people living in the Bulwell area, accounting for over 10% of the population of the city of Nottingham. The 2011 census showed a population of 16,157 in the Bulwell ward of Nottingham City Council. There is also an adjacent ward called Bulwell Forest. The population of this ward at the same census was 13,614.
The earliest documented settlements in Bulwell appeared circa 800 A.D, and were most likely built around the same time as the first local bridge spanning across the River Leen. With the river being significantly narrower, shallower and slower-moving in Bulwell than in other potential locations along its length and the threat of highwaymen a very real danger on existing cross-country routes, a toll bridge was constructed in this outpost, allowing for a quicker and safer passage from north to south for travellers but providing an obstacle to less legitimate travellers.
The bridge created a rare direct road to Nottingham from the North West and therefore introduced regular traffic from across the country to the area for the first time.
The tolls levied for crossing the new bridge required the building of a gatehouse for those collecting the levies and providing protection for people using the route: the creation of the toll house thereby inadvertently founding the new settlement. The almost captive market of the travelling parties provided endless potential for trade, and the abundance of natural resources made it easy to erect a dwelling. As the volume of traffic using the road increased, so did the size and population of Bulwell.
Bulwell is mentioned in the Domesday Book, which was compiled in 1086. Recorded in the book as "Buleuuelle" and classified as a village, Bulwell had by this time become established as a small trading post for all kinds of goods and services. It had expanded to cater both for those living and working in the surrounding area and those travelling further afield, and this in itself encouraged many others to settle in the wider area.
Local people, particularly the poorer of the new settlers, often offered space in their homes to travellers requiring overnight stops. Paying a relatively small price, travellers would share a home-cooked meal with their hosts and sleep in their rooms - a much safer and infinitely more sociable arrangement than continuing onto Nottingham. The river provided local entrepreneurs with the facilities to make beer, a fact which it appears was exploited freely, and which perhaps led more 'guests' to become overnighters inadvertently and require accommodation!.
Never slow to evolve, by around 1200 Bulwell had grown to provide all the facilities to accommodate animals and their masters alike in droves, becoming something of a one-stop 'service station' on what was fast becoming a relatively major road. Trade in this still relatively small and compact stopping post thrived, with a steady stream of newcomers attempting to exploit the opportunities Bulwell had to offer. Whilst the increase in trade was good for the local economy, the new-found abundance of salesmen and tradesmen split the town in two.
The owners of the 'official', original businesses, having in some cases incurred large expense to build and maintain premises, complained bitterly about an ever-growing number of roaming salesmen undercutting their prices and taking their trade. Since they were also paying rates to the local landowner, they considered their right to monopolise custom inalienable. In response to the complaints, a local law was enacted (circa 1320 AD) forbidding anyone without 'fixed... and at least part-covered premises' from selling goods or services close to the original businesses.
However, the statute was badly worded: to circumnavigate the laws, the salesmen simply fixed posts into the ground, creating market stalls similar in design to their modern counterparts. The stalls were covered for use and left uncovered in situ when not in use, thus both abiding by the law and designating a permanent venue for their sales. The people using these facilities fought hard against the power of the richer businessmen and successfully defended the right of the marketeers to operate alongside them. The location of the Market Place remains virtually unchanged to this day and still houses a bustling market on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

The population grew steadily throughout this period, but the town itself did not grow much in size: opportunities for betterment and the desire of many to live further away from the 'unhealthy' town centres ensured a relatively even flow of traffic in and out of Bulwell.
At some point during this time, both the magnesium limestone and the sandstone (now known as Bulwell Sandstone) on which Bulwell sits began to be quarried. The strong easily crafted durable rock, a dull yellow-orange magnesium limestone (not to be confused with the Bunter sandstone famously underlying Nottingham Castle), provided a perfect building material which was also easy to quarry. Many houses, schools, churches and - particularly - garden walls built using Bulwell Stone still stand to this day, extending for miles around Bulwell in all directions. An early example can be found in sections of the wall surrounding Wollaton Hall, which was built using Bulwell stone in the late 16th century. The sheer quantities used there - and elsewhere in the city - suggest some kind of professional mining operation must already have been in operation by this time. Bulwell stone was later also used to repair the damage caused to the palaces of Westminster during the second World War.
Coal is also found in abundance close to Bulwell. Running as part of much larger seams criss-crossing the region, the coal lies underneath the layers of sandstone and is in places only a few feet beneath the surface. Coalmines in the area around Bulwell were therefore among the first in the county to operate on a commercial basis, with large-scale mining from around 1500 onward.
Many fortunes were made at the time from the extraction of coal, including that of Sir Francis Willoughby. Willoughby paid for the building of the extravagant Wollaton Hall (mentioned above) with money obtained through coal-mining. One of the world's first railway lines, completed in 1604 and leading between nearby Strelley and Wollaton, was built by Willoughby's heir to aid transportation of the tons of coal being produced from 'his' mines. Since the invention of the steam train was still some 200 years in the future, horses and other beasts of burden were used to pull the rows of carts filled with coal, with the rails acting more as a guide and as a smoother surface when compared with the roads of the time.
The church on the hill overlooking Bulwell (built 1849-1850) is on the site of the original Bulwell church, which dates back to at least the 13th century. Towering over most of North-East Nottingham, Bulwell Saint Mary the Virgin and All Souls (known simply as St Mary's) can be seen from many miles away, and its bells still ring out across the area each weekend.

In 1667, George Strelley "built a school for the educating and teaching (of) young children of the Inhabitants of the said Parish", a stunning building that survives to this day, along with many of the other houses built at this time. The building is now used as a private home but retains many of the original features. 1852 brought the act of Parliament allowing for the extension of the gas pipeline from Basford and the South. This allowed for street lighting, commercial and domestic use, and effectively revolutionised life in the town. The earliest supply of water was not to arrive until 1877, with the many local springs, wells and the river providing for the needs of both business and domestic use until this time. Before 1877, water-borne diseases were rife and the river water highly polluted by both industry and sewage, leading to very high rates of infant mortality across the region. The percentage of children dying before reaching their fifth birthday decreased by over 75% in Bulwell between 1870 and 1890 - a situation that led to dreadful overcrowding and even more demand for already overstretched services like housing. Health care again suffered as a result of the insanitary living conditions, but the population continued to grow apace.
1843 brought bad weather that did irreparable damage to Bulwell Saint Mary's church. The church we have today was built in its place between 1849 and 1851; the architect was Henry Isaac Stevens. In 1885 the new church of St. John the Divine on Quarry Road was consecrated.

Over the past century, Bulwell has grown enormously with the creation of housing estates such as Crabtree Farm, Snape Wood, Highbury Vale and Hempshill Vale.
Snape Wood and Sellers Wood were originally part of a swathe of woodland that bordered the landfill site to the north-west of Bulwell, stretching down to the farmland that became Hempshill Vale estate to the south-west. Both woods were protected under Royal Warrants stretching back to the 12th century, but drastic shortage of housing in Bulwell in the 1960s and 1970s, as in Nottingham as a whole, led to the protection being removed and new housing estates being built.
A token remnant of Snape Wood was left behind in the middle of the new estate, amounting to little more than a small fenced-in copse with three pathways leading through it. Owned by the local authority, Nottingham City Council, the site was designated a Local Nature Reserve, but years of neglect have left the site rubbish-strewn and in need of a structured management plan. Despite constant fly-tipping and a lack of proactive conservation, this site surprisingly supports a wide variety of wildlife, from rare wildflowers to mammals such as grey squirrels, hedgehogs and urban foxes, as well as up to 20 different species of bird. In February 2009, plans to set up a community group to take ownership for the maintenance and conservation of the site on behalf of the local authority were moved forward.
A larger proportion of Sellers Wood remains, with the land also designated as a Local Nature Reserve, actively managed by Nottinghamshire Wildlife Trust on behalf of the local authority, Nottingham City Council. Sellers Wood was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest by English Nature in 1981, being cited as "a fine example of broad-leaved semi-natural woodland...of regional importance".
Bulwell no longer has a working quarry, landfill site, coalmine or brewery to employ its residents. Designated industrial areas such as those found on Greasley Street and Commercial Road were constructed early in the latter half of the 20th Century, followed in the 1980s and '90s by smaller developments of offices and light industrial units such as those on Pottery Way (off Sellers Wood Drive).
The larger developments for industry built in Sellers Wood in the 1980s (off Blenheim Lane/Camberley Road/Dabell Avenue) were further added to during the 1990s. Many other industrial buildings have sprung up in the surrounding area since then and the larger area looks set to grow outwards once more in the near future. The extended industrial estate includes warehousing and distribution for national food retailers, large printing factories, office blocks of all sizes and numerous small- to medium-sized units offering a variety of goods and services. A large Cash and Carry wholesalers recently joined the supermarket, petrol station and small row of fast-food outlets between this industrial estate and the rest of Bulwell. This utilises yet another piece of the land that was used for landfill until the 1960s/1970s; leaving only two large fields now without some kind of development.
Just next to the supermarket is a very steep hill which still marks out the edges of the long-abandoned limestone quarry.
The centre of Bulwell is located in a valley next to the banks of the River Leen. The Bog area beside the Leen, known for over 900 years as "Bulwell Bogs", has long been set aside as a place where children can play, paddle and fish.
After an attempt by the Lord of the Manor to enclose the land around the Bogs, in 1872, the people of Bulwell staged a peaceful protest, massing in their hundreds to protect the 'common' land. Described as "...impeccably well behaved and peaceable to a man; indeed rather joyous of spirit!" in the official records, the people of Bulwell marched a short distance before enjoying lunch by the river. After this, the crowd is said to have "...dispersed quietly and as directed with no further disturbance", later winning the fight to designate the land for the "pleasure and leisure of the people of Bulwell".
The whole Bogs area was set to be demolished in 2002, to make way for a large road-bridge and a transport interchange, from where buses, trams, taxis and trains could all be caught. Fierce public opposition from local people resulted in a campaign being launched to prevent the work; the City Council eventually scrapped the plans. With help from local community groups and residents, the facilities at Bulwell Bogs were instead upgraded in 2003 to produce a bigger play-park, a safer paddling pool and a cleaner feel, and won a Green Flag Award in 2004 for the work done to regenerate the area.
As well as the Bogs, there is an area about a mile upstream, near the present-day Moorbridge, which historically attracted children from miles around to play. This led to the nickname "Bulwell-on-Sea" being applied by other Nottingham residents. The building of the outdoor Lido pool nearby further strengthened the connection, with families historically travelling from across the city to spend a day by the water in Bulwell. Unfortunately, despite fierce opposition by local residents, the Lido was demolished in 2006, with the land being sold off to private housing developers.

Bulwell is locally pronounced as the monosyllabic word 'Bool', which gradually formed through 'Bulwell', 'Bulwull' and then to 'Buwull'.
Local linguists have additionally suggested that by 2030, local pronunciation of the word will then have reached 'Buwuww'
The name is supposed to have been derived from the spring which runs out of the Bunter sandstone over a bed of clay, near to the northern end of the forest, called "Bull Well." In The Place Names of Notts., it is suggested that the first part of the name may stand for an Anglo Saxon person called Bulla, or a bull, or it may describe the bubbling sound produced by the flowing water of the spring.
Legend has it that the town was named after a bull struck a sandstone rock causing it to seep water - a well. The now sealed well-housing, located in the nature reserve off Bestwood Road, is said to be the original well; i.e. the place that the bull gored. Both Bulwell Saint Mary's school and the Seventh-day Adventist church next door have illustrations of the tale relief-carved into sandstone blocks. Generations of Bulwell's children have grown up with the legend, and with the city council recently erecting a statue of a bull goring a well in the marketplace, it seems that the traditions surrounding the legend will continue indefinitely.

Bulwell has more of historical interest than I imagined and I was hoping, as I headed out on a not unpleasant afternoon, that this would extend to its pubs! I knew that Bulwell had a large number of drinking establishments but some quick research had confirmed that very few of them sold real ale. At the very least this made it easy to decide which pubs I would be visiting and I was optimistic, if a tad nervous, as I boarded the tram and began my journey. In a little under 45 minutes I had arrived at my destination and began my exploration. Following a brief survey of the town centre to get my bearings, I immediately headed to the first pub on the day's itinerary, which happened, luckily enough, to be the local Wetherspoons, the William Peverel.

Opened in 2011, having been converted from its previous life as a Wilko, the pub is named after the son of William the Conqueror who, according to the Domesday Book, owned land in the area and was responsible for the construction of Nottingham Castle. The interior is impressive, with a high, vaulted roof over the main room and clerestory windows. The décor is natural oak timber and cream painted with a long, single bar to the front and a number of smaller rooms leading off. Numerous styles of seating and tables occupy the large central space and the main room has been designed to look like a baronial hall, complete with a carved knight on horseback. There is an outdoor smoking and drinking area to the rear. The bar features 10 handpulls, 9 of which are in use on my visit offering Doom Bar, Ruddles, Abbot Ale and doubles of Nottingham Rock Mild, Magpie Best and Derventio Cupid. I opted almost instantly for the Cupid, from Derby based Derventio. At 4.1%, this is a golden, honey ale with a smooth, rounded character. Brewed with blossom honey, Challenger and Gosling hops, it's a sweet and refreshing pint and a good way to start the day. It was lunchtime by the time I arrived and the pub was busy but I was able to find a table towards the rear, near to the kitchen, with a view through the service hatch. My pint was delicious and I enjoyed every sip as I pondered what else I was likely to expect for the afternoon. My next task became deciding where to go next.

Heading out of the pub after finishing my beer, I took a left and made my way towards the top end of the high street, passing a pub on my left called the Framesmith's Arms which, although equipped with handpulls, had no ale available at the time. Reaching a KFC, I turned right, crossed a level crossing and found my next destination on my right. My attention now turned to the Newstead Abbey.

Built in the 1880s, this is a former Shipstone's house with a heritage interior that CAMRA rates as Regionally Important. Built of brick, with a corner tower the interior is partially opened out but retains much of the original structure and has 2 large rooms downstairs (one with a pool table) and an upstairs function room. From the corner entrance, on the left is a large, plain bar with island servery  and a wide corridor with seating behind. Off this corridor, to the right is an opened out snug with now unused bell pushes. In 1883, this unusually laid out pub was registered as a beerhouse under Jas. Terry. The pub was registered as an Asset of Community Value in March 2016. I got slightly confused with the layout when I first entered and, having eventually found the correct door, I ended up in the bar area, which features a long bench and tables along one wall with carpeting throughout and black tiling near the bar. There is a trophy cabinet against the far wall, holding the spoils of the pool team's victories. The small bar boasts a single handpull which, on this occasion, features Marston's EPA. The very friendly landlady welcomed me and poured me a pint of this beer which was very well kept and tasty. I took a seat on the aforementioned bench and took in my surroundings. I was told by the landlady that a refurb is currently underway which bodes well for the pub's future. The overall feel is similar to that of drinking in somebody's lounge but in a good way and I can understand why the local community is determined to preserve this pub. I was preparing to move when one of the window cleaners that carries out services for the company I work for randomly turned up and the landlady offered me another pint which, at this stage, it would have been rude to turn down. As much as I was enjoying some work-related conversation, there was yet more exploring to be done and so I made my exit.

From here, I retraced my steps and made a slightly different route back to where I started passing a couple of ale-less pubs on the way. The destination I had in mind was a little bit further out and I walked past Bulwell Bogs and took a right onto Sellers Wood Drive, following this road all the way to the end where my final stop of the day is located. I had now arrived at The Limekiln.

Built on the site of a former lime kiln, which previously formed a prominent part of local industry, this is a large, modern, open-plan pub operated by Marston's. The interior is large with a number of smaller alcoves. In its pre-pub days in the 19th century, Irish agricultural workers were noted for holding illicit cockfights in the area. No cocks or Irishmen were visible on the day of my visit and so I made my way to the large, J-shaped bar where 3 handpulls greeted me with a choice of Hobgoblin, Hobgoblin Gold and Marston's Pedigree. I was immediately drawn to a choice between the 2 Hobgoblins and I was swayed with the Gold, especially given that it was being sold for £1.50 a pint! The beer was very tasty and I took it over to a table underneath a window, looking out into the pub. This was again a pub that was quite busy, given that it was approaching late afternoon. The atmosphere and feel of this place was very welcoming and friendly and reinforces the fact that Marston's certainly do know how to look after their beers. And with the last drop of beer, my trip to Bulwell was complete!

It had been an interesting afternoon. The pubs providing real ale are few and far between but these chosen few are at least doing a good job with their beers. The town itself is clearly well catered for in terms of drinking dens and these obviously do enough business that they feel that real ale is not for them for whatever reason. It will be interesting to see whether or not tastes will change in future and an influx of real ale will occur in this area of the county. I suspect this may not happen soon and so, for now, the trio I experienced on my trip are the ones leading the way for real ale in Bulwell. We shall see what the future holds.

New and Improved?

Following the exploits in the West Country a couple of weeks ago, this week's task took place considerably closer to home as I decided it was high time to investigate some of the newer venues to have sprung up in Nottingham city centre in recent years and months. The face of the centre has changed significantly since I first moved here 10 and a half years ago and lots of new places have taken root, some under new names and some as new places sporting old names. Whilst this trip did not cover all of the new venues that have recently emerged, a further trip will cover the majority of those that I left out on this occasion.
My trip began following a shift at work which meant I could head straight into town and get started on the day's quest. My first destination will likely upset the purists but that did not deter me starting the afternoon at the Junkyard.

Situated on Bridlesmith Walk between Bridlesmith Gate and Fletcher Gate, Junkyard is a café bar that opened in 2014 after a full refurbishment from what used to be Walk Café into what is now a 140 capacity venue. The bar is a sister venue to the speakeasy cocktail bar Boilermaker in Hockley. The layout of the bar combines the feel of a North California bar and eatery with a specialist craft beer shop. There are no handpulls present as the bar specialises in craft beer from the UK, US and Europe, spread across 15 pumps suspended on the wall of the back bar, with prices shown for 2/3 of a pint. I'm certainly spoiled for choice for my first beer of the day. Available on the day of my visit are Williams Bros Lager, Wylam Northern Monk, Black Iris Pioneer, Tiny Rebel Club Tropicana, Magpie Twisted, Magic Rock Hypnotist, Almasty Pacific, Reubens Crikey, Atom Northern Alchemy, Fierce Beer Day Shift, Fierce Beer Fuego Feroz, Two Beers Grey Skies, Totally Brewed Grandpapa Jangles, Salopian Polygraph and Buxton Rednik. It took me a little while to decide on where to begin but I was finally swayed by Fierce Beer Day Shift (5%). Fierce Beer are a craft brewery based in Aberdeenshire and Day Shift is a light and easy drinking American pale ale that contains a large number of hops including dry hops added later in the brew. The hoppy flavours complement citrus and pine notes and it is certainly very easy drinking! As much as craft beer is controversial in the eyes of many in CAMRA and elsewhere, when it is done well it is very good indeed.

The day had started well and my next location was barely any distance away at all as it lies adjacent to Junkyard, in the neighbouring building. Owned and operated by the same people, and crewed by the same staff, Junkyard's newest sibling is The Herbert Kilpin.

Opened in June of last year in what was formerly the Rhinegold Restaurant, the Herbert Kilpin has breathed new life into a building that was derelict for over 20 years. The pub is named after the Mansfield Road born pioneer who founded AC Milan football club whilst working in an Italian textiles factory. This is reflected in some of the inner décor and in photographs on beermats inside. The bar occupies most of the length of the left hand wall and there is a door to the rear courtyard that is shared with Junkyard. The bar features, amongst an ever-changing craft beer range, 5 handpulls, all offering ales from local breweries. The biggest presence is Black Iris who offer their Stab in the Dark, Red Rooster and Kilpin Pale Ale (brewed exclusively for the pub), alongside Navigation Hibiscus Red and Magpie Jay. I opted for the Red Rooster (5%), an American red IPA with a heavy malty taste and an unexpected smoky edge that finishes the whole thing smoothly. This is only my 2nd visit to the Herbert Kilpin and it's very enjoyable indeed with the contrasts and similarities with Junkyard making it a very unique place with an interesting feel that benefits from its sensitivity to and respect for local history.

My next stop meant a short walk towards the Lace Market area of the city as I headed to a place that, last time it featured in this blog, it was still based at The Navigation on Wilford Street but now has its own dedicated premises. I speak, of course, of Annie's Burger Shack.

Despite the name, the 'shack' is now located in a large, open plan and airy building in the Lace Market Conservation Area. The building is Grade II listed and started life as a warehouse and factory, designed by T.C. Hine from 1850-1860 with later additions in 1862 by S.R. Stevenson for the Midland Lace Company. The building is 4 storey with the restaurant area on the ground floor and a downstairs bar, the 'Ocean State Tavern', situated in the basement and named after the state of Rhode Island from whence Annie originates. I've raved before about the food here but this time I was here for the beer. The restaurant area has a U shaped bar with 2 banks of 5 handpulls that dispenses a range of changing ales from local microbreweries and further afield. The upstairs décor is a mix of wooden floorboards and exposed brickwork. Dried hops hang above the windows whilst one wall is adorned with vintage American sporting equipment. The Ocean State Tavern, which opens at 5pm in the week and at 12 noon at weekends, has bare brickwork, industrial piping and wood to form a rustic décor. Booth seating accompanies standard bar seating. 9 of the 10 handpulls are in use when I visit and, with the downstairs bar closed, I opted to sit at the bar for a pint. My options were Wild Weather Big Muddy, Amber Ales Chocolate Orange, Road Crew Motorhead, Fallen Just the Ticket, Marble Brewery Bitter, Wild Beer Co. Bibble, Totally Brewed 4 Hopmen of the Apocalypse, Saltaire Hazelnut Coffee Porter and Oakham Scarlet Macaw. After a moment to peruse my options, I decided on the Bibble from Bristol based Wild Beer Co. At 4.2%, this is an unfined beer brewed with Vienna malt and oats to give a very malty mouthfeel. Mosaic hops give a tropical fruit flavour and Amarillo hops are added at the end of the boil to give an extra orangey kick. A moreish bitterness is complimented by tropical fruit tastes. And the name? To 'bibble' is a Somerset term meaning to drink regularly. CAMRA discount is offered to members and the pub now features in the Good Beer Guide, and deservedly so! Given the age and history of the building in which Annie's resides, it's perhaps not too surprising that strange events have been reported within these walls. Annie took the decision late last year to release CCTV footage showing some very odd things indeed. A pint of beer is seen to move half the length of a bar on its own over the course of several minutes. Furniture moves violently and considerable distances when the pub is quiet, including one instance when a stool was physically dragged or pushed a distance of approximately 8 feet. Strange noises, footsteps and voices have been heard and staff are uneasy staying in the building when the pub is closed. Clearly Nottingham's lace workers are restless!

I could easily have stayed here all day but it was time to venture onwards. My trip now took me back towards the centre and onto Parliament Street where my next location sits on the corner of South Sherwood Street. Formerly a late night haven for clubbers, I was now at The Hop Merchant.

Formerly a traditional street corner pub, the building's most well known recent incarnation was as the Turf Tavern, a name that a pub on the site has had since Victorian times. It briefly became almost like a small nightclub but this version of the pub quickly fell through. The Turf Tavern was the go to place at weekends when clubs closed as it was open from 10pm-4am and full of a whole cross section of interesting locals. Situated opposite the Theatre Royal, it was formerly a Shipstone's house until it was acquired in 1996 by Greenall's and renamed the Samuel Morley after a Victorian benefactor to the city whose statue stood nearby until 1927. Unfortunately, Morley was a well known temperance campaigner and locals protested the name change and it quickly reverted back to being the Turf Tavern. In 1855, the publican was G. Moore. On 9th February last year, the pub was nominated by CAMRA as an Asset of Community Value but the application was rejected. The building in its current appearance was built in 1923 to the designs of WB Starr & Hall. Now a pub specialising in real ale with more conventional opening hours, the interior has been renovated sympathetically with notable additions being a television and a feature wall made up of the tops of sawn down beer kegs. The upstairs has been renovated into a room in which live performances are regularly held and the whole aesthetic of the place has been tastefully updated. The bar, which sits against the back wall, now holds 3 handpulls, having previously had none in its previous forms. Whereas the beers on offer would normally be from different breweries, I have arrived during a week long tap takeover and so the taps are host to beers from the recently revived Home Ales, namely Maid Marian, Robin Hood and Little John. Being unfamiliar with any of these beers, I decided to try the Little John (4.8%), a well balanced, mahogany beer with Cascade and Magnum hops providing a powerful taste and a strong depth of flavour. Despite the rejection of CAMRA ACV request, the pub seems to have gone in a significant upwards direction and it's always nice to see a pub reopen as an improved version of the same as opposed to closing for good. The Hop Merchant is a great addition to this area of the city centre.

The next few locations on the itinerary for the day were in very close proximity, with the next 2 roughly opposite The Hop Merchant and next door to each other. First up, a place that I have a professional connection with, Copper City.

Refurbished in 2015 to a high standard, Copper City occupies a building that was formerly Reflex nightclub and is the third addition to a chain which operates as an offshoot of Great Northern Inns. This café bar format has found much success in both West Bridgford and Mapperley and is proving very popular in the centre as well, particularly amongst theatre goers. Inside, the layout is split level with the bar on the ground floor, seating throughout and down a small flight of steps and an upstairs mezzanine area used for dining. The bar is very well stocked with an excellent range of cocktails on offer, a range of craft beers and 2 handpulls, 1 of which is permanently in use, offering Navigation New Dawn Pale. This is my choice for my next beer and it's in very good condition as it should be. Being friendly with the staff here and loving the atmosphere of the venue, I hung around here for a while, taking a seat at the bar and having a chat. It's nice to work for a company that makes you feel happy to go into any of the other venues whenever you can and that's exactly how I feel here. As tempting as it would be to stay for another, I have yet more pubs to visit. Luckily, the next one is just next door.

The longer standing of the 2 venues on this corner is the Three Crowns.

Originally built in 1928 as the Three Crowns on the site of an earlier pub of the same name, this later became Tavern in the Town before becoming Edward's Bar in 1997 and then Flares nightclub in 2010. Now owned by Mitchells and Butlers, the pub was refurbished and reopened under its original name in June 2014 as a modern pub, selling up to 6 real ales. The ground floor is divided into several booths with sport on TV prominent. The toilets are upstairs with further seating beyond, which is opened at busy times. The aforementioned 6 handpulls offer an interesting variety, on the day of my trip, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Leeds Pale, Doom Bar, Vocation Bread & Butter, Everard's Sly Fox and Greene King IPA. Intrigued by the name, I went for the Sly Fox (4%), a pale, golden ale with a touch of ginger providing a real bite. The 3 hops used in the brew result in a zesty, spicy ale with an inviting honey aroma. I've been in the Three Crowns many a time although my visits have declined in regularity, not for any obvious reason, although I know longer know any of the staff there, which always helps. I still enjoy coming in here for a beer. The range is always interesting and the prices are very reasonable. The food isn't bad here either!

Moving on from the Three Crowns, I continued down Parliament Street and took a left into Hurts Yard, a long narrow alleyway between Parliament Street and Angel Row. I was now about to visit the first of 2 micropubs on today's trip and the oldest of the 2. This was the Barrel Drop.

Opened in 2014, this single roomed micro pub on 2 levels was formerly a fish shop before being converted to its current form. The U shape of the building offers the feel of 2 distinct areas and there is minimal décor, mostly in the form of framed classic beermats. Some parts of the premises date to the 1800s and the cellar extends all the way to Angel Row and is believed to be part of Nottingham's cave system. All of the ales here are served directly from casks behind the bar and there are 5 on offer whilst I'm there, namely Mallinson's Tartan Black, Beartown Polar Eclipse, Beartown Pale Zesty Bear, True North Pale and Thirst Class Penny Red. My choice here was the Polar Eclipse (4.8%), a dark, oaky, black stout with soft aromas of treacle and burnt toffee which gives way to a taste of full of complex flavours of coffee, molasses and roasted barley. It's darker than I would necessarily have gone for but I don't mind a good stout on occasion and this was a good choice. Sitting in the Barrel Drop is a bit like sitting in somebody's lounge which is apt given that there a small group playing Trivial Pursuit on the table in front of me. It's hard not to eavesdrop. I love a good quiz!

From the Barrel Drop, I continued my journey down Hurts Yard, emerging onto Angel Row and making my way to Friar Lane where my next stop sits on a corner opposite a cat café. Formerly a short lived tapas bar, I was now at the Ned Ludd.
 

Now a craft beer bar after previous spells as a recruitment office and then a tapas place, the Ned Ludd was acquired by Nottingham Brewery in June 2015 after previously being part of the Great Northern Inns portfolio. Named after the fictional face behind the Luddite movement, which saw workers smashing up newly developed looms in protest at jobs being taken away from humans, the bar is spread out over 2 floors with upstairs reserved for private functions and downstairs a cosy drinking and dining area. The bar is served by several fonts and 4 handpulls which, at the time of my visit, feature Nottingham Legend, Nottingham EPA, Thornbridge Jaipur and Thornbridge Seaforth. It's been a while since I had any Nottingham beers and I went for the Legend which was in excellent condition. For some reason, I've been in the Ned Ludd less than a handful of times which is something I need to rectify as it's very nice inside and the beer is delicious.

I had 3 more pubs to visit and the next one is located on Maid Marian Way, meaning another short walk to a place that has risen from the ashes of another failed venue. What once was Chambers karaoke bar is now the Bear & Lace.

Billed primarily as a champagne bar, the Bear & Lace opened under the present name in July 2015, following a full refurbishment. It is now a smart and comfortable modern bar and restaurant with a bar down one side and smart seating throughout. The bar includes 4 handpulls, 3 of which were in use whilst I was there, providing a choice of Castle Rock Harvest Pale, Shipstone's Original and Shipstone's Paddington. Taking a table opposite the bar, I enjoyed my pint of Harvest Pale, which was delicious and very well kept. A quick perusal of the food menu suggests that a return trip for food may be required as it all sounds excellent.

The penultimate stop of this tour of town was the 2nd micropub of the day, located on Derby Road. Operated by Derby based Scribblers Ales, this is Room with a Brew.

What was previously a shop is now a long, narrow micropub with a bar at the rear and seating between the door and the bar. The pub has just celebrated its one year anniversary and seems to be going from strength to strength. The bar features 8 handpulls, half of which, unsurprisingly, feature beers from Scribblers themselves in the shape of Rubecca, Beerfest at Tiffany's, Masher in the Rye and Beyond Reasonable Stout, alongside 4 guest beers namely Bude Porthbud, Grafton Priors Well, Leatherbritches Mad Ruby and Littleover Apex. I decided that I would try some of Scribbler's own so I went for the Masher in the Rye. This is a golden Amercian-style craft ale made with a dash of rye malt and delicate, subtle aromas from Mt. Hood and Styrian hops, all at a drinkable 4.8%. This is a nice little place in a good location with a few other pubs nearby, which allows the long walk uphill to be rewarded by a good pint.

Another walk uphill brought me to my last stop for the day. Located amongst the cluster of pubs at Canning Circus, my day came to a close at The Falcon Inn.

Originally built as a pub in 1853, The Falcon was formerly a Shipstone's and Greenall's house which had open air Gents toilets. By 1864, it was a fully licenced establishment under victualler J. Hickling. Alterations were made by WB Starr and Hall in 1919 for J. Shipstone and Sons. Having changed hands numerous times throughout the years, it was fully reopened in October 2013 and occupies a prominent position in the centre of Canning Circus. It consists of 2 small rooms with a function room/restaurant area upstairs with meals served on Sundays only. The bar features 8 handpulls serving local beers, always including one dark beer and a real cider. The choice at the time of my visit is spread across 6 of the 8 handpulls and includes Nottingham Sooty Stout, Oakham Citra, Abbeydale Lion Tamer, Totally Brewed Guardian of the Forest, Pheasantry Best Bitter and Lilley's Mango Cider. I was instantly drawn to the Citra which is a big favourite of mine and it was very well kept indeed. This is my first visit to The Falcon and I'll definitely be coming back. It's a great way to end what has been a very productive day.

So, what have I learned? It turns out that the new establishments have added a lot to the Nottingham drinking scene. There is more choice in a large variety of different venues of different shapes and sizes with lots of different atmospheres and done in lots of different ways. The thing, overwhelmingly, that they have in common is their commitment to good beer and good service. Nottingham was already a great place to drink but now that is even more true and, with lots more venues that will form the basis for a future trip, it looks as if that will continue to be the case for many many years to come. Let's hope so. It's another reason to justify drinking in this fantastic city.

Ales and Avalon

Following on from our investigation of some of the pubs around the Stokes Croft area of Bristol, our second day of last week's trip to the west saw us do a number of different things. Our plan was thus: a trip to Matt's favourite pub en route to the legendary town of Glastonbury for a brief look at their pubs before a return to Hanham, the Bristol suburb where Matt lives, to check a few more of his locals. There was a lot about the day that I was excited about, no more so than our first trip.
Our first location is situated deep in the Mendips and has something of reputation in the local area for its beer, food and hospitality. Matt has told me a lot about the pub in the past and it would finally be good to experience it for myself. Our first destination of the day was the Hunter's Lodge Inn.

This is a timeless, classic roadside inn, situated at a crossroads near the village of Priddy, the highest village in Somerset. The pub is very popular with cavers and walkers and the landlord, Roger, has been in charge for well over 40 years. There are 3 rooms, including one with a flagged stone floor. All of the beer is dispensed directly from casks behind the bar and local cider is also served. The food is supposed to be exceptional and, judging from the prices, very reasonable as well. There is a garden to the rear and dogs are welcome. Mobile phones, however, are definitely not and Matt has told me that Roger has a piece of wood with phones nailed to it that is often used as a visual deterrent. The opening times are limited to lunchtimes and evenings with the pub usually closed between around 2 and 6pm. There were 3 beers available to choose between at the time of our visit, Cheddar Ales Potholer, Blindmans Golden Spring and Butcombe Bitter. I opted for the Potholer (4.3%), an award-winning golden ale with zesty fruit flavours and a rounded, hoppy finish. It was very nice indeed and added to the atmosphere of what is a cracking little place. I was already in love with the pub before I even ordered a beer and I'll definitely be returning in future, to try the food if nothing else. You don't get many pubs like this any more and it's a real shame but long may the Hunter's continue.

Next stop Glastonbury! I had been to the town once before but never for long enough to properly explore and Amy had never been, having only negative connotations to associate with it due to selling tickets for the eponymous festival in her job. I was excited to see more of a town I knew a fair bit about from its connection to various myths and legends, particularly those linked to Arthurian myth. You probably know what's coming next if you've read these entries previously. Here comes the historical intro.

Glastonbury  is a town and civil parish in Somerset, England, situated at a dry point on the low-lying Somerset Levels, 23 miles (37 km) south of Bristol. The town, which is in the Mendip district, had a population of 8,932 in the 2011 census. Glastonbury is less than 1 mile (2 km) across the River Brue from Street, which is now larger than Glastonbury.
Evidence from timber trackways such as the Sweet Track show that the town has been inhabited since Neolithic times. Glastonbury Lake Village was an Iron Age village, close to the old course of the River Brue and Sharpham Park approximately 2 miles (3 km) west of Glastonbury, that dates back to the Bronze Age. Centwine was the first Saxon patron of Glastonbury Abbey, which dominated the town for the next 700 years. One of the most important abbeys in England, it was the site of Edmund Ironside's coronation as King of England in 1016. Many of the oldest surviving buildings in the town, including the Tribunal, George Hotel and Pilgrims' Inn and the Somerset Rural Life Museum, which is based in an old tithe barn, are associated with the abbey. The Church of St John the Baptist dates from the 15th century.
The town became a centre for commerce, which led to the construction of the market cross, Glastonbury Canal and the Glastonbury and Street railway station, the largest station on the original Somerset and Dorset Joint Railway. The Brue Valley Living Landscape is a conservation project managed by the Somerset Wildlife Trust and nearby is the Ham Wall National Nature Reserve.
Glastonbury has been described as a New Age community which attracts people with New Age and Neopagan beliefs, and is notable for myths and legends often related to Glastonbury Tor, concerning Joseph of Arimathea, the Holy Grail and King Arthur. Joseph is said to have arrived in Glastonbury and stuck his staff into the ground, when it flowered miraculously into the Glastonbury Thorn. The presence of a landscape zodiac around the town has been suggested but no evidence has been discovered. The Glastonbury Festival, held in the nearby village of Pilton, takes its name from the town.

During the 7th millennium BCE the sea level rose and flooded the valleys and low-lying ground surrounding Glastonbury so the Mesolithic people occupied seasonal camps on the higher ground, indicated by scatters of flints. The Neolithic people continued to exploit the reedswamps for their natural resources and started to construct wooden trackways. These included the Sweet Track, west of Glastonbury, which is one of the oldest engineered roads known and was the oldest timber trackway discovered in Northern Europe, until the 2009 discovery of a 6,000-year-old trackway in Belmarsh Prison. Tree-ring dating (dendrochronology) of the timbers has enabled very precise dating of the track, showing it was built in 3807 or 3806 BC. It has been claimed to be the oldest road in the world. The track was discovered in the course of peat digging in 1970, and is named after its discoverer, Ray Sweet. It extended across the marsh between what was then an island at Westhay, and a ridge of high ground at Shapwick, a distance close to 2,000 metres (1.2 mi). The track is one of a network of tracks that once crossed the Somerset Levels. Built in the 39th century BC, during the Neolithic period, the track consisted of crossed poles of ash, oak and lime (Tilia) which were driven into the waterlogged soil to support a walkway that mainly consisted of oak planks laid end-to-end. Since the discovery of the Sweet Track, it has been determined that it was built along the route of an even earlier track, the Post Track, dating from 3838 BC and so 30 years older.

Glastonbury Lake Village was an Iron Age village, close to the old course of the River Brue, on the Somerset Levels near Godney, some 3 miles (5 km) north west of Glastonbury. It covers an area of 400 feet (120 m) north to south by 300 feet (90 m) east to west, and housed around 100 people in five to seven groups of houses, each for an extended family, with sheds and barns, made of hazel and willow covered with reeds, and surrounded either permanently or at certain times by a wooden palisade. The village was built in about 300 BC and occupied into the early Roman period (around 100 AD) when it was abandoned, possibly due to a rise in the water level. It was built on a morass on an artificial foundation of timber filled with brushwood, bracken, rubble and clay.
Sharpham Park is a 300-acre (1.2 km²) historic park, 2 miles (3 km) west of Glastonbury, which dates back to the Bronze Age.


The origin of the name Glastonbury is unclear but when the settlement is first recorded in the 7th and the early 8th century, it was called Glestingaburg. The burg element is Anglo-Saxon and could refer either to a fortified place such as a burh or, more likely, a monastic enclosure, however the Glestinga element is obscure, and may derive from an Old English word or from a Saxon or Celtic personal name. It may derive from a person or kindred group named Glast.
Hugh Ross Williamson cites a tale about St. Collen, one of the earliest hermits to inhabit the Tor before the Abbey was built by St. Patrick, which has the Saint summoned by the King of the Fairies, Gwyn, to the summit of the Tor. Upon arrival there he beholds a hovering mansion inhabited by handsomely dressed courtiers and King Gwyn on a throne of gold; holy water disperses the apparition. This is from Druid mythology, in which the mansion is made of glass so as to receive the spirits of the dead, which were supposed to depart from the summit of the Tor. This was the chief reason why the chapel, and later the church, of St. Michael were built on the high hill; St. Michael being the chief patron against diabolic attacks which the monks believed the Fairy King to be numbered among. Accordingly, Williamson posits that the Tor was named after the glassy mansion of the dead.
William of Malmesbury in his De Antiquitate Glastonie Ecclesie gives the Old Celtic Ineswitrin (or Ynys Witrin) as its earliest name, and asserts that the founder of the town was the eponymous Glast, a descendant of Cunedda.
Centwine (676–685) was the first Saxon patron of Glastonbury Abbey. In 1016 Edmund Ironside was crowned king at Glastonbury. After his death later that year he was buried at the abbey. The Domesday Book indicates that in the hundred of Glastingberiensis, the Abbey was the Lord in 1066 prior to the arrival of William the Conqueror then tenant-in chief with Godwin as Lord of Glastingberi in 1086.
To the southwest of the town centre is Beckery, which was once a village in its own right but is now part of the suburbs. Around the 7th and 8th centuries it was occupied by a small monastic community associated with a cemetery. Archaeological excavations in 2016 uncovered 50 to 60 skeletons thought to be those of monks from Beckery Chapel during the 5th or early 6th century. Sharpham Park was granted by King Eadwig to the then abbot Æthelwold in 957. In 1191 Sharpham Park was conferred by the soon-to-be King John I to the Abbots of Glastonbury, who remained in possession of the park and house until the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539. From 1539 to 1707 the park was owned by the Duke of Somerset, Sir Edward Seymour, brother of Queen Jane; the Thynne family of Longleat, and the family of Sir Henry Gould. Edward Dyer was born here in 1543. The house is now a private residence and Grade II* listed building. It was the birthplace of Sir Edward Dyer (died 1607) an Elizabethan poet and courtier, the writer Henry Fielding (1707–54), and the cleric William Gould.
In the 1070s St Margaret's Chapel was built on Magdelene Street, originally as a hospital and later as almshouses for the poor. The building dates from 1444. The roof of the hall is thought to have been removed after the Dissolution, and some of the building was demolished in the 1960s. It is Grade II* listed, and a Scheduled ancient monument.

During the Middle Ages the town largely depended on the abbey but was also a centre for the wool trade until the 18th century. A Saxon-era canal connected the abbey to the River Brue. Richard Whiting, the last Abbot of Glastonbury, was executed with two of his monks on 15 November 1539 during the dissolution of the monasteries.
During the Second Cornish Uprising of 1497 Perkin Warbeck surrendered when he heard that Giles, Lord Daubeney's troops, loyal to Henry VII were camped at Glastonbury.

In 1693 Glastonbury, Connecticut was founded and named after the English town from which some of the settlers had emigrated. It is rumored to have originally been called "Glistening Town" until the mid-19th century, when the name was changed to match the spelling of Glastonbury, England, but in fact, residents of the Connecticut town believe this to be a myth, based on the Glastonbury Historical Society's records. A representation of the Glastonbury thorn is incorporated onto the town seal.
The Somerset towns charter of incorporation was received in 1705. Growth in the trade and economy largely depended on the drainage of the surrounding moors. The opening of the Glastonbury Canal produced an upturn in trade, and encouraged local building. The parish was part of the hundred of Glaston Twelve Hides, until the 1730s when it became a borough in its own right.

By the middle of the 19th century the Glastonbury Canal drainage problems and competition from the new railways caused a decline in trade, and the town's economy became depressed. The canal was closed on 1 July 1854, and the lock and aqueducts on the upper section were dismantled. The railway opened on 17 August 1854. The lower sections of the canal were given to the Commissioners for Sewers, for use as a drainage ditch. The final section was retained to provide a wharf for the railway company, which was used until 1936, when it passed to the Commissioners of Sewers and was filled in. The Central Somerset Railway merged with the Dorset Central Railway to become the Somerset and Dorset Railway. The main line to Glastonbury closed in 1966.
In the Northover district industrial production of sheepskins, woollen slippers and, later, boots and shoes, developed in conjunction with the growth of C&J Clark in Street. Clarks still has its headquarters in Street, but shoes are no longer manufactured there. Instead, in 1993, redundant factory buildings were converted to form Clarks Village, the first purpose-built factory outlet in the United Kingdom.
During the 19th and 20th centuries tourism developed based on the rise of antiquarianism, the association with the abbey and mysticism of the town. This was aided by accessibility via the rail and road network, which has continued to support the town's economy and led to a steady rise in resident population since 1801.
Glastonbury received national media coverage in 1999 when cannabis plants were found in the town's floral displays.

Glastonbury is notable for myths and legends concerning Joseph of Arimathea, the Holy Grail and King Arthur. Many long-standing and cherished legends were disproved in a four-year study by archaeologists at the University of Reading, who, amongst other findings, discovered that the connection with King Arthur and his Queen, Guinivere, was created deliberately by the monks in 1184 to meet a financial crisis caused by a devastating fire. Other myths dispelled include the visit by Jesus, the building of the oldest church in England, and the flowering of the walking stick. The study made new archaeological finds; its leader found Glastonbury to be a remarkable archaeological site. The new results were reported on the Glastonbury Abbey Web site, and were to be incorporated into the Abbey's guidebook; however, the leader of the study, who became a trustee of Glastonbury, said "We are not in the business of destroying people’s beliefs ... A thousand years of beliefs and legends are part of the intangible history of this remarkable place".
The legend that Joseph of Arimathea retrieved certain holy relics was introduced by the French poet Robert de Boron in his 13th-century version of the grail story, thought to have been a trilogy though only fragments of the later books survive today. The work became the inspiration for the later Vulgate Cycle of Arthurian tales.
De Boron's account relates how Joseph captured Jesus' blood in a cup (the "Holy Grail") which was subsequently brought to Britain. The Vulgate Cycle reworked Boron's original tale. Joseph of Arimathea was no longer the chief character in the Grail origin: Joseph's son, Josephus, took over his role of the Grail keeper. The earliest versions of the grail romance, however, do not call the grail "holy" or mention anything about blood, Joseph or Glastonbury.
In 1191, monks at the abbey claimed to have found the graves of Arthur and Guinevere to the south of the Lady Chapel of the Abbey Church, which was visited by a number of contemporary historians including Giraldus Cambrensis. The remains were later moved and were lost during the Reformation. Many scholars suspect that this discovery was a pious forgery to substantiate the antiquity of Glastonbury's foundation, and increase its renown.
An early Welsh poem links Arthur to the Tor in an account of a confrontation between Arthur and Melwas, who had kidnapped Queen Guinevere.

Joseph is said to have arrived in Glastonbury by boat over the flooded Somerset Levels. On disembarking he stuck his staff into the ground and it flowered miraculously into the Glastonbury Thorn (or Holy Thorn). This is said to explain a hybrid Crataegus monogyna (hawthorn) tree that only grows within a few miles of Glastonbury, and which flowers twice annually, once in spring and again around Christmas time (depending on the weather). Each year a sprig of thorn is cut, by the local Anglican vicar and the eldest child from St John's School, and sent to the Queen.
The original Holy Thorn was a centre of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages but was chopped down during the English Civil War. A replacement thorn was planted in the 20th century on Wearyall hill (originally in 1951 to mark the Festival of Britain, but the thorn had to be replanted the following year as the first attempt did not take). The Wearyall Hill Holy Thorn was vandalised in 2010 and all its branches were chopped off. It initially showed signs of recovery but now (2014) appears to be dead. A new sapling has been planted nearby. Many other examples of the thorn grow throughout Glastonbury including those in the grounds of Glastonbury Abbey, St Johns Church and Chalice Well.
Today Glastonbury Abbey presents itself as "traditionally the oldest above-ground Christian church in the world," which according to the legend was built at Joseph's behest to house the Holy Grail, 65 or so years after the death of Jesus. The legend also says that as a child, Jesus had visited Glastonbury along with Joseph. The legend probably was encouraged during the medieval period when religious relics and pilgrimages were profitable business for abbeys. William Blake mentioned the legend in a poem that became a popular hymn, "Jerusalem" (see And did those feet in ancient time).

Whether or not you believe the legends and claimed religious importance of Glastonbury, it's hard to ignore the enormous amount of history associated with such a small corner of Somerset. It was into this land of myths, martyrs and legends that we now immersed ourselves. Our first task was an attempt to climb the Tor, something that Matt and I have done previously but Amy, with this being her first visit, had not experienced. We eventually decided that halfway was probably far enough so instead returned to the real purpose of our visit, Glastonbury's pubs! The first of these was more or less right at the bottom of the Tor and walking had made us thirsty so it was almost like we'd planned it. Our first stop in Glastonbury's drinking establishments was The Rifleman's Arms.

The pub dates from at least the 16th century and much of the original façade remains unchanged. The rear terrace and sun-trap patio provides great views over the surrounding area. The wide, low front doorway leads to the traditional bar, separated from the more modern rear of the building by an archway. Both bars include real log fires (particularly noticeable on a chilly February day) and there is also a pool room and regular live music. The 5 handpulls include doubles of Tribute and Butcombe Bitter as well as Philosopher cider from Orchard Pig. We sat at a table by the aforementioned log fire, under the traditional mullioned windows and enjoyed the warmth and the beer. The Tribute was as it should, lovely and warming and clearly well kept. Conversation turned to our next plan and I decided I'd like to try and find the Hawthorns Hotel, the only GBG listed pub in the town. We succeeded in this plan only to find that it appeared to be closed for redecoration. Instead we headed to the neighbouring Who'd A Thought It?, only to discover that this quirkily named pub was unable to serve real ale as they were retiling their cellar. Not to be deterred, we retraced our steps.

Our next destination ended up not being a bad one as we ended up at the King William.

This warm and friendly pub sits in the town centre and features a long bar opposite the entrance with a raised dining area to the left and an smaller seating area to the right with a small set of steps leading down to a pool table and a door that leads to the toilets and a skittle alley. The pub is dog friendly and hosts live music at weekends. The bar holds 2 handpulls featuring, on our visit, Butcombe Bitter and Box Steam Tunnel Vision. The Tunnel Vision (4.2%), is a well-rounded light amber bitter with a clean taste and a slight bitterness in the finish. It proved to be a good choice and we sat at a table just off from the bar, very much enjoying, despite setbacks, what was proving to be a largely enjoyable day. Our conversation was briefly interrupted by a trio of 18 year old lads who'd bunked off from a school trip who, despite, not actually engaging us, sat on the table right next to us in deference to established rules of pub etiquette. When they later admonished and removed by an annoyed teacher, it gave us a chance to laugh about it with the barman.

We decided we could probably squeeze one more in before Matt drove us back to Hanham so we popped into one of the oldest buildings in the town, the George & Pilgrim's Hotel.

Designated as a Grade I listed building, this is the oldest purpose built public house in the South West of England, having been constructed sometime in the 14th century to accommodate pilgrims visiting the nearby abbey. Originally known as the Pilgrims' Inn of Glastonbury Abbey, by the 19th century the building was known as the George Hotel, hence the current name. The front of the three-storey building is divided into three tiers of panels with traceried heads. Above these are three carved panels bearing the coats of arms of the abbey and of King Edward IV. The hotel is certainly a sight to behold and is very atmospheric inside, having kept a large number of period features including the almost pew-like seating. The bar is in a large lounge-style room off of the central corridor and 7 handpulls are in evidence with 5 of them in use. For our delectation are Tribute, Doom Bar, Otter Bitter, Fine Tuned Rack & Roll and Hecks Cider. It didn't take long at all to decide on the Rack & Roll. At 4%, it's an easy-drinking ruby coloured American style ale with big notes belying it's ABV. The brewery, Fine Tuned, are based in Lanport in Somerset. We took our beers through to a smaller seating are on the other side of the central hallway and absorbed some of the history of this fantastic place. Perhaps unsurprisingly for a building of its age and history, there are a number of ghostly tales told of the George & Pilgrim's. The most widely reported apparition is that of a monk who has been reported walking down corridors and through walls and sometimes appearing in the bedrooms of guests. He has on occasion been seen to be followed by a well dressed female figure about whom little is known. The monk himself is believed to have committed suicide on the site in an area known as the 'haunted cell'. Another ghost is that of a man in a blue sports jacket who vanishes when approached. Light anomalies are regularly spotted on the pub CCTV and, in 2012, a photo taken in the bar area appeared to show the face of an unknown man manifesting in midair even though nothing was seen at the time.
It's difficult not to sucked into the atmosphere and antiquity of this place with its tales of spirits and the air of mysticism and mystery that seems to permeate the whole town. Alas, it was now time to make our way back. We weren't done with our ale excursions by any stretch though!

Upon arrival back at Hanham, instead of going back to the flat, we continued our journey down towards the river, where Matt had informed us there were a couple of nice pubs. We decide to pop into the oldest and more traditional looking of these, the Lock & Weir.

This is a riverside cottage pub that occupies 2 levels with the bar area on the upper floor containing a flagstone floor and tall bar stools, with three linked drinking rooms downstairs and a heated patio on the river's edge. The pub is dog friendly and has a Golden Retriever as its pub dog although the dog is sadly nowhere to be seen when we visit. The bar holds a single handpull, with Tribute as its offering and this is in very good condition indeed. I can definitely see this place being popular in daytime, especially in the summer with the river in close proximity and a jolly, convivial atmosphere throughout. On an inclement Wednesday night in February though, it's a different story. The pub, the company and the locals are great. The weather is definitely not on our side however!

We now headed back to the flat and decided to go to a pub that is quite literally just down the road and, despite numerous trips down here, has not yet made it into a blog entry. It's time has come! We now made our way to the local Wetherspoons, The Jolly Sailor.

This long standing pub is situated on the main road through Hanham, which follows the route of a former Roman road to Bath. Named as a link to the nearby River Avon and the historical local links to John Cabot its earliest recorded landlord is Charles Coole, in charge during 1853-74. Hhe was followed by Joseph Bateman whose relative conducted a service on board the Titanic as she sank. The décor and layout is standard Spoons with the seating areas over 2 levels, a main bar downstairs and a smaller bar and toilets upstairs. The 5 handpulls offer Ruddles, Abbot Ale, Doom Bar, Exmoor Fox and Bath Gem. I went for the Exmoor Fox (4.2%), a sleek and delicate beer with a malty mouthfeel, a soothing, softly bitter finish and a lingering bittersweet character. All in all, a cracking pint! We initially came here with the intention of food and our intentions were cemented when we discovered it was quiz night! We took a table upstairs, prepared ourselves and awaited the arrival of Jess who had been at work. The food was good, the beer went down easily and a good time was had by all. Following the quiz, we emerged full and victorious!! The girls decided to turn in for the night and Matt decided we could probably manage another so wandered over to a pub just behind and up the road from the flat, another I had never visited. Our journey concluded at the Queen's Head.

Reopened in September 2016 following a refurbishment, this is a comfortable friendly local with a main bar to the front, a separate bar area to the left and a restaurant area off to the right. There are a few regulars in when we arrive and the atmosphere is very welcoming as we peruse the beer choice. Of the 6 available handpulls, 4 are in use, offering doubles of Wadworth 6X and Wadworth IPA. I don't tend to see Wadworth much in my part of the world but I'm familiar enough with the brand to know what I'm getting and a pint of 6X goes down very well indeed. We reflected here on our past couple of days and how enjoyable the whole experience had been once again. We were also befriended by the pub dog, a gorgeous female husky called Bear, which made leaving even harder. Matt had suggested heading down to The Swan (another new one on me) but I was spent by this stage and it also means we've got more to do next time!

The 2 days spent down in Bristol with great friends and great pubs was a refreshing start to the year and has once again contributed to some fantastic memories. The West Country, as far as I've seen, is a hub of real ale magnificence and a haven for those of a drinking bent. There are some many fantastic places, both in and around Bristol, to explore and appreciate a good beer in. Bristol itself still holds many things for me to yet discover so we'll have to see where we end up next time. Because there will always be a next time.

Bristol Rovers

Greetings again one and all and, once again, an apology for my absence over recent months. It seems that once October rolls around, time and finance conspire to prevent me getting out and about as much as I would like. Thankfully, normal service is for now resumed and I hope to be able complete more excursions in the weeks and months to come.
It seems apt that the first new trip of the year should be to a place that has featured many times in this blog, a place that I am very fond of and which has a huge amount to offer both the seasoned and casual drinker. Last week, as part of the festivities surrounding my 30th birthday (screams inwardly), Amy and I headed down to the west country to visit Matt and Jess in Bristol with the aim of further exploring this fantastic city. What followed was 2 days of fun, excitement and drinking, both in Bristol and further afield.
Our first day of the 2 we spent in this lovely part of the country, saw us travelling to the Stokes Croft area of Bristol and exploring a number of the pubs along Gloucester Road, which runs from the suburbs directly into Bristol city centre. This involved a bus ride into the centre followed by a shorter bus ride out, which would allow us to walk back down towards the bus stops when we decided to call it a night. I was very excited to see what we would discover as I hadn't heard an enormous amount about the pubs in this area. Our first stop, The Bristol Flyer.

Formerly known as The Goose at the Flyer, this large, stylish pub has a very modern interior arranged over a split level set up with a large beer garden to the rear, featuring booths and a fully enclosed seating area which includes sofas. The pub even has its own small vegetable garden which allows it to grow its own produce for use on site. In terms of ale, the very well-served bar includes 4 handpulls, 3 of which are in use during our visit, offering us a choice between Bath Ales Gem, Great Heck Dave and Greene King Mighty Moose IPA. Being familiar with Bath Ales, and not wanting to start off on anything too strong with a whole day to get through, I opted for a pint of Gem. Matt went for the Dave whilst Jess and Amy began the day on cider. The Gem is a very delicious pint. Brewed with Maris Otter malt and Goldings hops, the beer boasts a rich aroma of both and a long, deep, bittersweet finish. It almost goes down too easily as I had almost finished my pint before anybody else had really got started!
Despite the forecast of a dry day, the weather was beginning to look decidedly ominous. Thankfully, our next destination was only a couple of doors away, at The Cider Press.

Formerly, the Rising Sun, this Stonegate operated premises was once part of the Scream student pub brand before this was disbanded and now emphasises cider (as you'd expect), beer, sport and burgers. Inside, the layout is large and open-plan with a central bar facing the large front windows and small tables situated opposite and around the sides. The pub is Cask Marque accredited and also offers a CAMRA discount, which I found out too late as usual. 2 of the 3 handpulls are in use, proffering a choice between Prescott Hill Climb and Brains Reverend James. I do enjoy a good pint of Reverend James so my choice in this situation was easy and I was not to be disappointed as the beer was refreshing and vey well kept. Cider fans will not be disappointed here either as the back bar boasts a whole bank of wall-mounted cider pumps, offering as many as 28 varieties of different styles, flavours and strengths. The day had certainly started in a positive fashion and we were very much enjoying our most recent trip down to this wonderful city.
The rain had dissipated somewhat as we headed to our next destination, which on the opposite side of the road at the area's namesake pub, now operated as the Gloucester Road Alehouse & Kitchen.

This mock-Tudor fronted property has risen from the ashes of an old pub known as the Foresters and prides itself on cask ale and craft beer, operated as it is by Wotton-under-Edge based Wickwar Brewery. The interior is compact and cosy with a small bar accessible through a glass door just inside the entrance. There are 6 handpulls on show, mostly showcasing Wickwar beers, in the form of Try Time, Cotswold Way, Bob and Falling Star, but also St. Austell Tribute and Lilley's Cheeky Pig cider. The upstairs bar also boasts a further 3 handpulls. All real ale retails at £2.50 a pint and they also boast an extensive gin collection, which very much pleased Jess. I haven't tried much Wickwar stuff in the past so, after a moment of deliberation, I opted for the Falling Star (4.2%), a golden ale with a complex and distinctive aroma due to a combination of Cascade, Willamette and Mittelfruh hops. All of this gives way to a balanced and refreshing finish. Based on this beer alone, I can recommend Wickwar beers to anyone as this is delicious!
It seemed a shame to leave this excellent place behind but our next stop was just down the road and this would prove to also be an inspired choice. Next up was The Hobgoblin.


In a former the Royal Hotel, this pub has been through several revamps and renamings in recent years. The large windows overlook the main road and there is a covered beer garden at the rear. The interior consists of large wooden tables arranged roughly around a central bar, staffed by a very enthusiastic barmaid. The 5 handpulls offer a mixture of things with Tribute, Old Rosie, Hobgoblin (somewhat obviously), Bath Gem and Orchard Pig Explorer. It would almost have been rude not to have the Hobgoblin and this proved to be a wise choice as it was very well kept. We took a bit more time with our beers here as we were very aware that it would soon be time for some food. I was tempted by the pub's in-house red hot chicken wings challenge but I was very aware of how wrong this would go so thought better of it.
We eventually decided that we could hold out a bit longer before food so decided to try one more pub first. That pub was the Prince of Wales.



The beautiful external mural of a row of handpumps was created by local artist Andrew Burns Colwill, whilst the ground floor stained glass windows are Victorian. Inside, two linked drinking areas are served by a U-shaped bar. There is a mix of seating with padded settles around the walls and a covered and seated outdoor section to the rear of the building. Daily newspapers and board games are available, along with a good beer selection. 6 of the pub's 8 handpulls are in use, featuring Bespoke Forest Pale, Boss Best, Butcombe Gold (x2), Otter Amber (x2) and Electric Bear Spilt Milk. Having initially missed the presence of Spilt Milk, I had already chosen Butcombe Gold for my tipple here. This was not a bad choice however as the beer was delicious and went down very easily. This is a very atmospheric pub and it's easy to see why drinkers are attracted here, the mural itself not withstanding.
The pub investigation continued just down the road at Bishop's.

Formerly Hogshead, then Bishop's Tavern and now just the Bishop's, this Greene King owned pub is a large, sprawling premises with a mixed customer base. A pool table sits in one corner and live sport is regularly shown on the TVs. There are 5 handpulls on the bar offering the obligatory Greene King IPA, alongside Abbot Ale, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker, Tyneside Blonde and Westerham British Bulldog. The inner patriot in me was called to British Bulldog, especially given that it's 6 Nations season. From Kent-based Westerham Brewery, British Bulldog (4.1%) is a rich, full-bodied best bitter in the traditional Kent style. The full flavour and aroma is the product of Kent Northdown and Golding hops before the late finish with Progress. All-in-all a very, well-rounded and drinkable beer indeed.
It was food time next and, following some Caribbean cuisine at a nearby Turtle Bay, the exploration continued. Our next stop was the Cat and Wheel.

Situated near the Arches railway bridge on Cheltenham Road, this is a traditional locals and community pub with a lounge and public bar. There are 6 TVs inside and one in the garden which show Sky Sports, a quiz machine, jukebox, pool table and table football and regular theme nights throughout the week. The 4 handpulls provide a choice of Tribute, Sharp's Doom Bar, Molescrum (the pub's own rebranded best bitter) and Theakston XB. I decided on the Molescrum which was a delicious, traditional beer with a dry, biscuit aftertaste. We took a table in the lounge, near the toilets, an area that was otherwise empty, and soaked up the atmosphere of this proper locals pub. We soon met Michael, a rather drunk Irish gentleman who was fascinated at the length of Matt's hair. He was very friendly and non-threatening and continued mine and Matt's record of always bumping into eccentric people when we drink in Bristol.
We decided we had time for one more pub before we wound our weary way home. That pub was The Social.

This popular café/bar is billed as one of the best places to eat in the Stokes Croft area of Bristol. Inside, there are a number of low, wooden tables, dimmed lights and a quirky sort of atmosphere. There are also quite a few people as it's early evening by the time we arrive. The décor is stylish and modern with a smallish bar tucked into a corner at about the midpoint of the structure. The solitary handpull offers Butcombe Rare Breed. This is well kept and easily drunk as we debate our next move. There are a good 3-4 more pubs further down the road that we have yet to visit but the length of the day and quantity of alcohol has caught up with us all so we resolve to call it a night and leave the unexplored for next time.

Bristol never ceases to amaze me. No matter how often we visit or how many bars and pubs we go to, there is always something new to discover, new beers to enjoy and unknown pubs to experience. The fact that we've already identified some candidates for our next journey down speaks volumes as to how much there is to see. With this, Day One of our most recent Bristolian excursion was brought to a close. Day Two had lots more to enjoy. Stay tuned!

Festival Thursday

Last week it was time for an event that has effectively become an annual pilgrimage and one which I am determined never to miss. I, of course, refer to the Robin Hood Beer & Cider Festival held, once again, at Nottingham Castle. This is the 41st year of the event and my 5th consecutive visit since I first made an appearance there in 2012.

This year we did things slightly differently to prior visits. Unable to get the Saturday off due to work commitments, Amy and I opted instead for the Thursday session which, as well as being considerably quieter, led to the chance of more beer and an always welcome opportunity to meet up with George and Claire. Sadly, Matt couldn't make it any earlier than the Saturday so he was unable to join us. Nevertheless, what followed was an excellent experience that well and truly reinforced that this is the best festival of its type anywhere in the world.

We arrived at the castle fairly early, around 11.30, with Amy meeting me following an early delivery shift at work (for me, not her). We were immediately surprised by the lack of a queue, especially given that we hadn't procured tickets this year and were buying on the door. This was not an issue at all though as we were inside almost instantly, clutching our commemorative glasses and beer tokens (as usual, 5 extra for me due to CAMRA membership).

Our first destination, after a brief exploration of the relatively unchanged layout, was the lower area near the bandstand which, although smaller than the main marquee further up, was easier to access for now and offered an interesting range of beers to choose from. As usual, the beers were arranged in alphabetical order of brewery with a larger choice in the main marquee as well as a number of dedicated brewery bars and the lower tent which features lots more! My first tipple of the day was highly seasonal. With Halloween just around the corner, I was instantly drawn to Fright Night, the solitary festival beer from Pennine Brewery, based out of Batley, West Yorkshire. At an easy drinking 4%, this is an amber ale with a roasted bitterness and a slightly spiced aroma. It was a very warming beer and a great start to the day that certainly got me into the mood. Using this first beer as a palate cleanser, we made our way up towards the main tent where we got our bearings and worked out what our next move would be. As it turned out, another beer was our next move and we found just the thing at one of the brewery bars, specifically that operated by Laneham based Springhead, whose beers I am more than familiar. Following recommendations by the very knowledgeable barman, I was drawn to the Blind Tiger (4.5%), an aromatic pale golden beer with full oranges added to the brew, which provided the whole thing with a slightly cloudy appearance and citrusy flavour. All in all, it was very nice indeed.

Things were progressing nicely now and, determined not to spend too much time in one area, we once again made our way down to the bottom marquee. Following a quick examination of the beers on offer, I was surprised to see a single beer from St. Austell brewery. The aptly named Bucket of Blood (4.5%) is a spicy, classic red ale with a malty toffee palate and a very nice flavour that went down much more quickly than I was expecting. It was back to the main marquee next and straight to a local brewery that I have all the time in the world for and who, once again, boasted their own bar at this year's festival. I speak, inevitably, of Blue Monkey brewery. Some serious decision making went into my choice this time. In the end, Amy and I both went for a third of Nuts (4.6%), a nut brown ale with a fruity flavour and smooth bitter afternotes. It was different to a lot of Blue Monkey beers and certainly a departure from what I expected. Blue Monkey is still flying the flag for excellent local beer and long may it continue! Continuing the back and forth that had so far been the theme of the day, we soon found ourselves back by the lower bars again and drawn to the bar of a brewery that I always make the point of visiting at every beer festival, due to both the quality of their beers and the quirkiness of their bar. Funfair Brewery had once again outdone themselves, last year's steampunk themed BBQ was now an Alice in Wonderland themed caravan, reflected admirably in their beers. My choice was Cheshire Cat (4.9%), a dark, malty, and very easy drinking strong bitter. The novelty value of this bar was once more enhanced by the serving of some of the beers (regrettably not mine) out of a teapot.

At this stage, we were at something of a quandary. We were very tempted to head back up to the main marquee, whilst also being very aware that George, Claire and Rich's arrival was imminent. In the end, fate (or something like it) intervened. As we were debating our next move, the advanced party, namely mutual friends of both myself, George and Rich (whose names are too numerous to mention) arrived and immediately headed for the Traffic Street bar. Thinking it rude not to get involved, we quickly did the same. An offshoot of Castle Rock brewery, Traffic Street specialise in speciality beers, many of which were in evidence here. Initially unsure where to progress next, I was finally swayed by the Rat Race (4.7%), a rich and biscuity red ale. Despite the relatively low ABV, it tasted a lot stronger but, thankfully, did not have too much of an adverse effect. Absorbed into the sudden increase in numbers of our group, who then decided that buying novelty traffic cone hats was the best idea in the world (it was not), we once again ventured to the main marquee which by this stage was considerably busier than it had been early doors. My beer exploration next me to the offerings of a new brewery, namely Brew York from, er, York which amongst its portfolio offered Viking DNA (5%), a very dark porter which packed a hell of a punch and was certainly worth giving up tokens for. My initial quantity of tokens was almost exhausted by now so I resolved myself to finding a decent beer to get a half of before I purchased further tokens. George and I had a discussion which led to a mutual interest in beers with amusing names, not that we weren't already fans of unfortunate/rubbish puns. To that end, the only place to really go by this stage was into the realms of Staggeringly Good Brewery, from my home town of Portsmouth!! At 6.5%, Velocirapture was worth a taste for the hilarious name alone. This strong (very strong!), American IPA was delicious, hoppy and smooth as well as adding another notch in the belt of a city that already boasts Charles Dickens and a football team on the verge of a return to greatness.

Our next step was to purchase more tokens which took next to no time and then it was straight back to the brewery bars. I was intrigued to see what Grafton Brewery had to offer this year. Renowned for their use of unusual flavours in their beers, they had been responsible for the excellent green beer last year. Between the small group of us, we opted for a range of the beers that were being proferred our way this year with myself being drawn to the Chocolate Mint Delight. This 4.8% stout was flavoured with peppermint, chocolate and coffee/cocoa flavours and was deceptively delicious. Fair play to Grafton for daring to go against the masses and produce beers that aim to be different. At this stage, Amy, George, Claire and myself once again headed back down to the lower area, making a bee line for the tent which was shared by Black Iris and Totally Brewed. Torn between the 2, George and I eventually opted for beers from the Totally Brewed stable, with my choice being 4 Hopmen of the Apocalypse (5.2%) with its piney, citrus hop character and caramel note. I have to confess that I hadn't previously tried many of Totally Brewed's beers but, if this is any indication, then it's clear that I've missed out. The main marquee once again held the day's next delight, in the form of a very interesting beer from Lincoln Green, which had one of the largest selections of any brewery at this year's event. The wonderfully named Gin and Beer It (5%) is infused with juniper berries, orange, lemon peel and coriander seeds, tasting for all the world like a gin and tonic, in every way that that is a good thing.

The sheer range of beers on offer this year was truly staggering and, the longer the day went on, the more I remembered how much I love the beer festival and how empty my life was before I first experienced its wonders. Still in the main tent, it was time once again to crank up both the ABV and the flavour, this time with Monster from Edinbrew, from Edinburgh in case you hadn't guessed. At 5.7%, Monster is a golden IPA packed with lychee, mango, lime, grapefruit and orange along with some big hop flavours. Monster is about right! Continuing the theme, the next beer was straight out of Somerset, courtesy of Electric Bear from Bath. Their Livewire is a big American IPA with a massive hop kick, all at a surprisingly drinkable 5.4%. Time was definitely getting on by this stage but there was still more beer to be drunk before the day was out. The taste for high strength beers was definitely catching on by now as my next choice was the 5.6% Aurora from Lewes based Burning Sky. A pale ale with big citrus and hop flavours, it went down far too easily and it became clear that I probably had 2 or 3 more beers in me before it was time to call it a day.

As it would turn out, the lower bars would be our destination for the remainder of our visit. It was time to pop in to the Castle Rock tavern to see what they'd brought with them this year. Baptism of Fire (4.8%), a ginger infused amber ale, instantly caught my eye and drew my attention away from the hardcore band on the bandstand who were struggling with their sound levels. Too much guitar and not enough vocal in my unprofessional opinion. Getting their mixing desk completely wrong was Amy's very educated verdict. Time and tokens wearing on meant that there was time for 2 more beers before we departed for home. The penultimate beverage for me caught my eye from the description alone. Out of New Mills, Derbyshire, Torrside Brewery have produced Late to the Party (5.5%), a black IPA (I'm still not sure how that works), with a healthy dose of New Zealand hops and roasted dark malts.

It had come to that time of the day. The last beer. The point where you have to decide carefully exactly what you want to do with the last of your tokens. It's always a tough decision, especially when the alcohol haze sets in and you don't want to make a snap decision for fear of regretting it. Thankfully, I'm a seasoned pro at this by now and I'd been eyeing up a suitable candidate for a while. Completing this year's beer festival journey was Werewolf. Brewed by Windswept in Lossiemouth, Moray, Scotland, this is a 6% dark, strong ale infused with chilli. All in all, a worthy climactic brew for what had been, once again, an excellent festival. The weather had held out, the beer and company had been excellent and everybody involved should be very very pleased with themselves. Once again, the Robin Hood Beer Festival has shown everybody how it should be done. It's no wonder that so many people, including myself, go back year after year. It's a one of a kind experience and one that other festivals can definitely learn. Will I be there next year? Obviously. Should you be? Definitely.