Beer Town Revisited

There are two main reasons that I have for revisiting a location that's featured previously in this blog. The first is that a significant amount of time has passed since my last visit and the venues in that location have changed, some may have closed and new ones may well have sprung up. The second reason is that I have unfinished business with a particular location. Perhaps I ran out of time on a prior visit and was unable to complete my planned itinerary and I need to return and put things right. The two reasons, of course, are not mutually exclusive and there is considerable opportunity for overlap. It was the latter reason that got me heading out for a return trip most recently, serendipitously enough, almost 3 years to the day since my inaugural visit. I would not be alone either, but more on that in a moment. It was time to reacquaint myself with Burton-upon-Trent, more often known as simply Burton and historically renowned for being the birthplace of British beer. My last visit had been a moderate success but I was left frustrated at my inability to be able to complete my aims. This time, I was determined to do this town justice. My companion on this occasion, last week as I type, was a friend of mine, Roger, henceforth known as Dog, a nickname he is known by by those that know him, although I am not at liberty to discuss the origins of said moniker. 

Those who are familiar with Burton, or at least read my last entry about it, will know that it is, in fact, not too far from Nottingham, and can be reached by train in 40 minutes. This would be the route that Dog and myself would take on the day in question. On the days prior to our visit, the weather had been glorious with mild, dry and sunny days. It was perhaps inevitable then that the day of our excursion was rather chilly and overcast, although things would improve later on. Our plan was relatively simple. Given that some of our intended targets tend to open at 4pm or later during the week, we would arrive in Burton around 1pm, meaning that the front half of our itinerary would be complete by the time the pubs in the second half had opened. The route was roughly circular and would ultimately bring us back into close proximity of the train station. As intended, we arrived in Burton shortly before 1pm. I had selected what, on paper, looked like a fairly comprehensive list of suitable venues, all but one of which were new to me. I was looking forward to uncovering more of Burton's drinking scene in the company of another like-minded friend. Upon arrival, we left the station and turned right, heading down the aptly named Station Street, which runs into the centre of town. Upon reaching the High Street, we turned right again, which took us into an area of the town that I had not been anywhere near last time. The walk in had helped us get our bearings and it wouldn't be long before we were at the first destination. We turned right at the junction with Lichfield Street, whereupon we swiftly located The Anchor Inn.

This Marston's pub dates back to the 18th century but the frontage is later, dating to the late-19th. Grade II listed, The Anchor sits proudly amongst a row of shops. The name derives from the Anchor Brewery, which was based here in the late 1800s. Inside, the layout is effectively a single room, with a central bar. The front room is a lounge bar with seating around the edge and a dance floor in a longer space behind. To the rear is a partly covered beer garden. Toilets are situated almost directly behind the bar. In terms of decor, the furnishings are simple and in keeping with the pub's aesthetic. A recent refurbishment and the introduction of new management have added additional comfort. With the Anchor being a Marston's pub, I was hopeful for the presence of real ale and I would be rewarded. A bank of 4 sits proudly on the bar. Half of these were in use, offering a single choice, that of Marston's Pedigree. A half each set us back a total of £4, and we took a seat in a corner near the window. We were informed by the lady that served us that, should we be around at 5pm, that their 'Thirsty Thursday' promotion would be on, which included 2 pints of Pedigree for £6 amongst various other tempting offers. Dog informed her that we were in fact on a crawl and would be at the other end of town by that stage but it was at least nice to be kept in the loop. As for the Pedigree, it was very good. It can sometimes be hit and miss but it was well kept here and a good start to the day, with the added bonus of being a source of refreshment after the traipse across town. The Anchor has certainly benefited from its refurbishment as a lot of the fittings look relatively new. A sign behind the bar did point out an interesting feature of the pub's licence which means that everything must be served in plastic glasses after 9pm on a Friday and Saturday. That sort of rule does make you wonder what happened to warrant it being a condition in the first place. Whilst it was quiet during our visit, you certainly get the impression that The Anchor gets lively of an evening. I also wondered whether the refurbishment has done away with the 3 ghosts said to inhabit the premises. Details are very scant except to say that there have been no recent sightings. 

We had more beer in our sights for now though. Leaving The Anchor, we turned right and continued down the road. A short distance away, on a curve in the road and situated on a junction is a very attractive building that also happens to be a pub. On now, to the Leopard Inn.

This imposing building was constructed in the mid-19th century and previously served as the racking room, and then the tap room, for the Charrington's Brewery, which stood next door. Now Grade II listed, it has an impressive facade, including 'Charrington's Fine Ales' inscribed on the roof parapet. Stone panels on the adjacent street reference 'London Stout' and 'Pale & Burton Ales', in reference to the town's illustrious brewing heritage. In more recent times, the inaugural meeting of Burton & South Derbyshire CAMRA was held here in 1975. Dog and I were both awestruck by the Leopard's fine exterior. Would its internal fixtures match up with its external majesty? The Leopard is another one-roomed establishment, this time U-shaped around a bar that is opposite the entrance. One arm of the U features a pool table and TV, whilst the other features the toilets. Furniture is simple but comfortable and takes the form of wooden tables and chairs. Our entrance here was welcomed by a gentleman in a hi-vis jacket, clearly a local labourer, nursing a pint of Guinness. He was baffled, nay marginally dumbfounded, when we both ordered halves until we explained the point of our visit and the long day we had ahead. He responded to this with a handshake. Which was nice. What did we order? Luckily, the Leopard also serves real ale. One of its pair of handpulls was providing Pedigree. I opted for a half of that whilst Dog went for a half of Guinness (total cost £4.30) and we found some comfy chairs adjacent to the bar. Beyond the impressive frontage, the interior of the Leopard befits its age and history. A lot of the original features and layout remain, although there have been some touch ups to keep the place looking decent. Other, less tangible, remnants of its history also remain, or at least used to. The disembodied sound of a rustling skirt used to be heard on a regular basis, alongside doors opening and closing of their own accord. Activity seemed to peak in the 1970s so whether it continues to this day remains to be seen. The pub is certainly not short of physical visitors though. Our hi-vis clad friend was not alone as there were other locals also present, presumably on a lunch break based on the time. It was a real delight to find real ale here. It was originally removed from sale back in 2013 but reinstated two years later to commemorate the anniversary of the local CAMRA branch. The Pedigree here compared very favourably indeed with that at The Anchor and, in my opinion, just about edged it for quality. It was poured through a sparkler at the Leopard, which added a smoother, creamier dimension to the mouthfeel. A local pub for local people maybe, but you can't knock the beer quality.

The next stop on the list was one that I'd kicked myself for missing last time and one I'd been assured would be a highlight of the day. We retraced our steps upon leaving the Leopard and made our way a short distance back up the road, to The Dog.

The first of a fair few Good Beer Guide 2025 listed pubs on the day's agenda, The Dog would turn out to be an absolute gem. The pub itself dates back to the early 19th century and was part of the Marquis of Anglesey's estate until it was sold to a private owner in 1867. In 1873 in was leased to Worthington's, who bought it outright in 1875. Worthington's later merged with Bass, Ratcliff & Gretton in 1927. For some years in the 1990s, the pub traded as an Irish theme pub called O'Neill's but remained in the hands of Bass until around 2000 when it was purchased by a private owner and reverted to its original name. Enterprise Inns acquired the property in 2005 before it was sold to Black Country Ales, the current owners in 2015. It is Black Country Ales who have made this two-storey, half-timbered building a destination pub in Burton. The reasons why are about to become clear. Internally, a large, comfortable, square-shaped room surrounds a central bar. The walls are dominated by wood panelling and the ceiling is wood framed. Framed old photographs of the town can be found on the walls and there are three real fires throughout. The clever layout allows for seating areas to the rear to be quiet and tucked away. Furniture is simple and a mix of scrubbed wood and banquette style. The beer choice is the real star here though. 14 hand pumps grace the bar. Of these, 12 were in use during our time here, with a mix of Black Country Ales and guest beers but also some real ciders. Our choices were Lymestone Foundation Stone, Weal Ales Weller Weal, Black Country BFG, Black Country Fireside (doubled up), Black Country Pig on the Wall, Beowulf F.H.P., Three Acre Skylark Stout, Gwynt y Ddraig Happy Daze, Lilley's Mango and Lilley's Bee Sting. Even before arriving at The Dog we knew two things: we'd have a tough job selecting our beers and we'd go for pints, primarily to slow ourselves down following our opening duo of quick halves. After taking a few moments to take in the options, I finally decided on Pig on the Wall (4.3%). Dog went slightly off-piste and went for a kegged red ale at the recommendation of the member of staff. We paid the not unreasonable £10 combined for our beers and made our way around the bar where we found a table directly next to the gents and opposite the dartboard. Thus far, I was most impressed with The Dog. All that was left was to see if the beer lived up to the hype. And bloody hell, didn't it just! Pig on the Wall is a chestnut brown mild, with complex flavours of light hops, a bittersweet blend of malt and undertones of chocolate and coffee. Make no mistake, this is a gorgeous beer! Mild is not my go-to style but I really feel like I need to give it more of a chance. Every time I try one, I'm blown away. This really is a stunning beverage. Seek it out. I urge you! For what it's worth, Dog's red ale was cracking too. The Dog had surpassed expectations and we were only three pubs in. And, yes, I am absolutely aware of the irony of drinking in The Dog with a man called Dog. We obviously took a few photos of him stood outside the pub with the sign clearly visible. Dog-ception if you will. 

Leaving The Dog behind was a real effort but we did at least not have far to go for pub number 4. Once again heading back in the direction of the high street, we then veered off towards the Market Place. In the shadow of the nearby church and opposite the covered market, we made our to the Olde Royal Oak.

One of the oldest pubs in Burton, the Olde Royal Oak has a chequered past but seems to now be flourishing under the current owners, who took over in March 2024. Believed to be approximately 300 years old, the rear part of the building is alleged to have been built around 1640. A now blocked off tunnel, running under the church, once connected the pub to the abbey. At one time, the pub was used as the local lockup and housed prisoners, something that has allegedly contributed to stories of hauntings, with resident entities claimed to include a priest, a witch and a former jailer. Whether these stories are true, they form a central theme of the local ghost walk which begins at the pub. The pub, as the Royal Oak, appears in a 1905 photograph alleging Worthington ownership, although the earliest surviving records are much later and have it listed as an Ind Coope house in 1983. It changed hands many times in the intervening years, most recently being owned by Star Pubs and Bars following a sale by Punch Taverns, before being acquired by the current owners. Internally, this is another one room pub, largely open plan but with some partitioning to break up the space. Seating is primarily located around the edges of the room and towards the centre, with the bar running down the left hand side. The toilets are located opposite the bar. On said bar, there are 8 handpulls, normally offering a mixture of real ales and ciders. On the day of our visit, this was certainly the case and we were faced with the choice of Ossett Voodoo, Derby Business as Usual, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Bass, Green Duck Rev Green and a trio of ciders, specifically Seacider Blueberry, Seacider Passionfruit and Lilley's Mango. A half of Business as Usual for me, half a Seacider Blueberry for Dog and a bag of mini ciders totalled £6.70. We made our way to a table in the window to reflect on our day so far and check our upcoming route. So far, the pubs had been relatively close to each other meaning that walking between each one was only taking a couple of minutes at a time. For the rest of the afternoon, the pubs would be more spread out. At least it would begin to feel like we'd earned our beers at each stop though. The Olde Royal Oak is a nice enough pub. It's certainly one of the most historic in the town and its history speaks for itself. It's good that it's been able to build a decent beer choice after so many years of being at the mercy of dreaded pubcos. My one complaint is that the beer I had, Derby's Business as Usual (4.4%), was just ok. It's a copper coloured bitter that is generally smooth and malty but I didn't detect a massive amount of flavour. I have memories of having this beer somewhere else though and formulating a similar opinion so maybe it's just one I don't get on with. 

Beers supped and no harm done, we had a walk ahead of us. The quickest route to our next destination was through an open greenspace adjacent to the church. This provided a picturesque subject for requisite photos and an excellent backdrop for our stroll. Our next location, the furthest out of all the pubs on the itinerary, is located on the other side of the river from the town centre. Burton is not exactly blessed with river crossings. Barring the main Trent Bridge that carries the main road, the only other option is the Ferry Bridge, which was several minutes in the wrong direction and wouldn't have actually made much difference to our walking time. Luckily, the weather had begun to improve. The cloud had broken and the sun had finally emerged. By the time we'd reached Trent Bridge and crossed it, we were certainly feeling the springtime heat. Having crossed the river, we turned right onto Stapenhill and continued on. A few short yards past the local cemetery, we had finally reached our next stop, at the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed Elms Inn. 

Overlooking the nearby river, the Elms started life as a private house in the 19th century, before becoming one of Burton's 'parlour pubs'. It still retains external lettering from its time under the ownership of Bass. Inside, you will find a mix of original character and more modern styles. To the front, the Victorian style has been retained in the form of a small public bar and a snug on either side of the bar, as well as small side room served through a hatch. To the rear, another lounge has been modernised with an extension and more contemporary refurbishment. The toilets can also be found in this area. Beyond, a rear garden leads up to a suntrap roof terrace. The smallish bar features, amongst its many delights, a bank of 4 handpulls. The choices facing us were Titanic Iceberg, Salopian Lemon Dream, Bass and Titanic Raspberry Pale. Dog and I both went for half the latter (£4.30 in total) and decided to make use of the outside drinking area. With the sun now beaming down, and the added bonus of a dragonfly flitting overhead, it was easy to forget that we were in the heart of urban Staffordshire and not in the middle of the countryside on a summer's day. Despite our surroundings, we picked the wrong beer for the occasion. The Raspberry Pale (4.7%) was just way too sweet. It's pink in colour and brimming with raspberry flavour making it very sweet and ever so slightly tart. If that's your sort of thing then you're very much in luck. If I'm honest, I don't know what I expected but it was a disappointment all the same. That takes nothing away from the Elms though. It's a cracking pub that's worth the walk to find. 

Yet more retracing of the steps would soon follow as we would need to make our way back over the river and into town. Conveniently, we had a stop in mind before we reached the town centre again, which would help to break up the return trek. Located on the town side of the Trent bridge is the renowned Burton Bridge Inn.

There are absolutely no points available for guessing which brewery this is the tap for. Originally built in the 17th century, the pub was bought by Bass from the Marquis of Anglesey in the 19th century, when it was known as the Fox & Goose. After around two years of closure in the late 70s-early 80s, it was bought by the founders of Burton Bridge Brewery and reopened under its current name in 1982. It is now the oldest running brewery tap in Burton and is also home to Heritage Brewing Company following its relocation from the, now sadly closed, Brewing Heritage Centre elsewhere in the town. A central bar serves two rooms. The smaller room, to the front, features wooden pews, old framed maps of Burton, awards, and plenty of brewery memorabilia. The back room is partly divided and features oak beams and panels. A function room and skittle alley, both available for hire, are upstairs. A decent sized garden can be found to the rear. It really should come as no surprise that Burton Bridge dominate amongst the 8 handpulls here. This is home turf after all! Other than the ubiquitous Bass, all the other options came from the Burton Bridge portfolio: Dark Shield, Sunshine Pale, Stairway to Heaven, Top Dog Stout, XL Mild, L of a Beer and Heritage (a collaboration with Amity). Whilst Dog went for the Top Dog Stout (obviously), I went for Dark Shield. A half of each, together with a cob (or roll) each (ham and mustard for me, cheese and onion for Dog) came to £10.25. We enjoyed our wares in the larger back room, grateful for the sustenance. The beer was ace too! Dark Shield is effectively a dark version of Worthington's famous White Shield. At 5.6%, it's dark cousin is a dark IPA. It's packed with all the bitterness and flavour you'd expect from an IPA, alongside a roasted profile and subtle hint of treacle. All-in-all, it's a very good beer indeed. The Burton Bridge was one of the casualties that fell off my list last time so to finally make it was a great feeling. It's a cracking pub!

Back into the town centre proper now. Leaving the Burton Bridge, we turned left and then left again at the next side street. This took us back down the high street from the opposite direction to before. When we once again reached Station Street, we took a right. Our next stop had been closed earlier in the day when we'd passed but, with it now past 4pm, it had now opened. The newest addition to Burton's drinking scene, at least in this part of town is Inn Uendo's.

Clumsy but hilarious name pun aside, Inn Uendo's is something a bit different. Borrowing heavily from the micropub model, this place bills itself as a 'microbar' offering something for everyone. Macro keg beers are present, alongside a pair of handpulls, on a bar at the back of a small room. The furniture is primarily square tables with a mix of high and low seating. Unlike traditional micropubs, background music is a feature. The decor is very reminiscent of seaside bars, with its risque postcards on the walls and suggestively named cocktails ('Chocolate Pussy' anyone?). And all of this in a venue that, somewhat bafflingly, used to be a funeral director's! The presence of handpumps was accompanied by real ale being available on them and this duo were offering Titanic Plum Porter and Thornbridge Jaipur. I opted for the latter whilst Dog went for Cold River Cider, with the price for a half of each equating to £4.65. It was nice to see Jaipur in these parts and very nice it was too! Whilst we enjoyed our drinks at a table near the bar, we got chatting to the owner who was very polite and friendly and gave us a warm welcome. Pleasingly, he confirmed that business was picking up since the place opened last September. He's clearly found an unexplored niche and long may he fill it. 

It was back to something slightly more traditional for our next stop and this would be the only pub to have featured in my previous Burton trip. On that occasion, I felt that my limited time here had done the venue a distinct disservice so it only seemed fair to remedy that. Continuing back down Station Street, we arrived at The Devonshire Arms.

The Devonshire Arms is a pub whose reputation very much precedes it. Grade II listed, the pub was built in 1830 as a house before conversion to a pub in the 1850s. It became an Eddie's house at some point until that brewery was taken over by Bass in 1932. It then became an Ind Coope house as a result of a 'pub swap' in 1978 and was owned by Burton Bridge from 1998 until it was sold to the current owners in February 2019. Now a free-house, the Devonshire is Good Beer Guide 2025 listed and is the current local CAMRA Pub of the Year. Returning here just had to be done. A central bar serves two areas: a smart public bar to the front and a split level lounge to the rear, which boasts more comfortable seating and an unusual curved wooden ceiling. Brewery and drinking related memorabilia can be found throughout. To the rear, is a good-sized garden with flowering plants and a covered smoking area. The beer choice is as you'd expect from a pub that has accrued so many accolades. Across 7 handpulls, we were greeted with the following: Bass, Phoenix Wobbly Bob, Marble Stout, Hopback Citra, Wye Valley HPA, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker and Gates Reservoir. On this occasion, I selected the Citra (4%) from Hopback. Dog, for his part, went for a half of Rosie's Pig Rhubarb Cider (price for both was £4.30). We decided to enjoy this excellent pub from the garden where I tried, and failed, to photograph a bee enjoying the flowers. I was annoyed with myself that I hadn't spent longer here on my previous visit. Dog was well impressed with the place as a whole. If I did one thing right on this particular trip, it was in rectifying my own prior error of judgement. The beer was expectedly excellent. I don't get to try Hopback beers much and that, in and of itself, is a travesty. Their Citra does perfect justice to its namesake hop. Big fruity flavours of grapefruit and lemon make this a properly sessionable, thirst quenching delight. 

We had two pubs left now. The next, and the penultimate one of the trip, was just around the corner and was another pub that I'd regretfully not had time to visit last time. Another Good Beer Guide 2025 listed pub, we now turned our attention to the Coopers Tavern.

This 19th century pub is primarily known for two things: its beer, and its classic, unspoilt interior. It is believed to have been built for the Bass 'brewer-in-charge' but later became a specialist malt store and then, in 1826, a store for Bass's imperial stout. It was used as a sampling room and an unofficial brewery tap until it was officially licensed in 1858. It remained as the Bass brewery tap until it was sold to Hardys & Hansons in 1991, who later leased the pub to Tynemill. In 2005, it was sold to Tuns Tavern, a precursor to Joule's Brewery which was founded in 2008 and still own the building. Entering the Coopers Tavern is like stepping back in time. A sympathetic expansion and refurbishment in 2017 has created the current layout of five interlinked rooms. A rear entrance can be found via a passage from Milton Street, through which Dog and myself entered. The front door leads through into the main lounge. Beyond this, a short corridor leads to the Tap Room at the rear where the bar counter is located. Off the lounge is the small William Bass Meeting Room, with an even smaller room, the snug located behind. A tiny new bar, with patio access, is situated between the snug and the Tap Room. The Coopers is a haven of breweriana in all manner of shapes, sizes and styles. Seating varies from traditional chairs to wooden benches, with some tables converted from barrels. The bar counter serves beer on both stillage and hand pull, largely from Joule's but guests also feature. There are even some well-known keg brands too. On the day of our visit 3 of the 4 handpulls were supplied with Joule's offerings, namely Slumbering Monk, Pale and Green Monkey. 3 guest beers were also available, all served on gravity, specifically Bass, Hopback Citra and Thornbridge Hirundo. I'm a fan of Joule's, not just for the aesthetic with which they decorate their premises but also for their beers. Slumbering Monk was an instant choice for both myself and Dog, although I must confess that I forgot to record the prices here so your guess is as good as mine. I can confirm that the beer was superb and another confirmation that coming back to Burton was an excellent idea. This place is bloody lovely. It's fantastic to see the effort and determination that has gone in to keeping such a unique pub looking how it used to look and still attracting clientele. I was blown away by the appearance and atmosphere of the place. It's easy to imagine the original Bass employees enjoying many a well earned drop after a long day, and getting to benefit from the results of their hard work. I already sensed it was going to be tough to choose a favourite pub for this trip, and there was still one left to go. 

Leaving the Coopers was tough but we had to move on to our final stop. Luckily, it's located only a short distance from the train station and is another unique venue. Crossing the bridge over the railway line, we took a right and then immediately another right to what, from the road, looks like a rather nondescript building in a courtyard. Last stop: The Weighbridge Inn.

This is now a Good Beer Guide 2025 listed micropub but it hasn't always been that way. It was formerly a coal yard office, believed to date back to the late 19th century when the nearby Midland Grain Warehouse and Grain Warehouse Yard were constructed. The warehouse is now a Travelodge. It is unknown exactly when the office closed but the building became the Middle Earth Tavern in 2015, before becoming the Weighbridge Inn when Wentwell Brewery bought the lease in 2016. Since then, it has been leased by Burton Old Cottage Brewery (2018) and Muirhouse Brewery (since July 2019). The interior comprises a J-shaped bar counter in the main room, with a smaller room located through a doorway at the far end. Fireplaces can be found in both rooms. The former control room from the original weighbridge, located across the courtyard, is now a small kitchen that offers meals cooked by the owner. A unisex toilet is opposite the main door to the bar room. On said bar, there are 4 handpulls. When we arrived, a trio of these were in use offering Muirhouse Tick Tick Boom, Rudgate Valhalla and Brunswick Railway Porter. Dog was instantly swayed by the Valhalla whilst I was drawn to the Railway Porter (4.3%). Our final halves of the day set us back a very reasonable £3.80. We sat at the end of a long bench facing the bar, enjoying our last beers of the trip. And enjoy them we did. The Railway Porter was great, packed full of malty notes and roasted bitterness. The finish was dry but not too dry. It certainly went down easily. Almost as easily as Ipswich Town, the team supported by the landlord, at least according to the shirt he was openly wearing. The Weighbridge had turned out to be an excellent last stop.

And a last stop it would be. Following the completion of our beers, we bade farewell to our hosts and made the short walk to the station for the next train home, which inevitably ended up being delayed by a few minutes for undisclosed reasons. Still. the return journey was ample time to discuss and decompress. Had Burton been worth the return trip? Unequivocally yes. There are some absolute belters out here as far as pubs go and I'm still mad at myself for missing so many of them out the first time. However, the good news is that I did eventually make it back and I'm so happy that I did. Burton has built a reputation as the place where British beer was born and it would have looked awfully silly had it not had the pubs to back it up. I enjoyed this second visit even more than the first and finally got to experience some of Burton's more legendary drinking establishments, even if said experiences were long overdue. I'd like thank Dog for his company. Based on the success of this trip and the enjoyment that was had, I suspect he'll be accompanying me on further trips in future. When and where is a matter for discussion. On that subject, I expect to be back with you in July. Amy and I have something planned which will, amongst other things, provide blog content a little bit different to normal. Until then, Burton? Completed it mate. 

Pub of the day: The Dog. It was very close between here and the Coopers but I think the Dog just has the edge.

Beer of the day: Black Country, Pig on the Wall. A superb mild if ever there was one.

Biggest surprise: The Weighbridge Inn. A cracking little micro in a quirky location. 

Peaked Too Soon?

During the years of compiling this blog, I've always made every effort to get to the locations I want to go to, rain or shine, regardless of the distances involved. More often than not, this involves putting my faith in public transport, for better or worse. I've taken multiple buses in one day. I've braved multiple changes of train in pursuit of my aims. I've even boarded a dreaded rail replacement bus during a return journey from Coventry. I've also traipsed on foot through the various villages that surround the A60. Luckily, I've experienced very few mishaps along the way. Why do I mention this as an opening to this entry? My latest trip would involve me once again placing myself into the hands of the gods of public transport, utilising both train and bus, to visit a new location for these pages. This time though, the location was not new to me. I first visited it many years ago, before the existence of this blog and it has always stuck with me. Something about the place burrowed deep into my brain and I knew I would have to make the effort to return. Last week, my long held dreams came to fruition. I went back to Castleton. 

Castleton is a village and civil parish in the High Peak district of Derbyshire, at the western end of the Hope Valley on the Peakshole Water, a tributary of the River Noe, between the Dark Peak to the north and the White Peak to the south. The population was 544 at the 2021 Census.

Castleton village was mentioned as Pechesers in Domesday Book in 1086 where "Arnbiorn and Hundingr held the land of William Peverel's castle in Castleton". This land and Peverel's castle were amongst the manors belonging to William Peverel that also included Bolsover and Glapwell. 

St Edmund's Norman church was restored about 1837. It has late 13th-century tracery and an ashlar-faced Perpendicular tower. Its box pews are dated 1661, 1662, 1663 and 1676.

A medieval leper hospital (the Hospital of Saint Mary in the Peak) is thought to have been on the eastern boundary of Castleton, though some locals believe it to have been just south of the Speedwell Cavern footpath from the village. University of Sheffield archaeologists are investigating 'Castle of the Peak', which was reputedly founded by the wife of one of the William Peverels before 1153, and continued until about the 1543 Dissolution. They say the earliest documents referring to Spital Field are a grant and a Charter from the early 14th century. They are also investigating the 12th-century planned town at the foot of the castle hill. Castleton's medieval town defences are still evident in the village and are a Scheduled monument.

Castleton had a long history of lead mining; the Odin Mine, one of the oldest lead mines in the country, is situated 1.5 kilometres (0.9 mi) west of the village. Researchers studying an ice core from a Swiss glacier have found that levels of lead air pollution across Europe during the period 1170–1216 were as high as those of the Industrial Revolution, and the principal source was Peak District mines such as Castleton and Wirksworth. The mining created and enlarged local caverns, four of which are now open to the public as Peak Cavern, Blue John Cavern, Speedwell Cavern and Treak Cliff Cavern. A small amount of Blue John is mined locally, and sold in a number of local gift shops, one of which is located in the 17th-century tollhouse.

Since the 1920s the main mineral industry in the area has been cement. Hope Cement Works is closer to Hope, but its quarry is closer to Castleton. A war memorial stands in the Market Place, in memory of local residents that died during both World Wars.

Castleton is situated between the gritstone plateau of the Dark Peak to the north and the gentler limestone scenery of the White Peak to the south. It lies at the western end of the Hope Valley and consequently is surrounded on three sides by hills. Most prominent is the ridge to the north. This is called Great Ridge; it runs east from Mam Tor to Back Tor and Lose Hill, via the pass (hause) of Hollins Cross, where paths from many directions converge and cross over to Edale. Alexander von Humboldt visited caves near Castleton and Buxton in June 1790 to investigate the region's geological structures.

Castleton was formerly on the A625 road from Sheffield to Chapel-en-le-Frith, on the way to Manchester. Leaving Castleton, the western road once went over Mam Tor, but after continual landslides and repairs (Mam Tor is called the "Shivering Mountain" because of its very loose shales), it was eventually abandoned. The only westbound exit from Castleton is now the unclassified road over the narrow Winnats Pass. This road is very narrow and steep and unsuitable for heavy vehicles or high volumes. Road signage has been designed to discourage through traffic by showing only local destinations. Thus, most traffic enters and leaves the village on the eastern (Hope-Hathersage-Sheffield) road (A6187); for traffic going west, that involves a long diversion via the villages of Bradwell and Peak Forest.

Getting to Castleton from Nottingham is no easy feat. Without driving there, the easiest way requires an hour long train journey to Sheffield, followed by a slightly longer bus journey. The good news is that the bus is at least direct and drops off in the heart of the village. The length of the journey did, of course, mean an early start. Thankfully, I'd picked an excellent day weather-wise for a journey into the midst of the Peak District. I boarded the 8.17 train from Nottingham station, arriving in Sheffield around an hour later. Sheffield Bus Interchange is located a short walk from the station. The next available bus to Castleton would depart at 9.46 which meant I had a few minutes to wait. Before long though, my double decker chariot had arrived and I, along with several other like-minded people, as well as a large number of students, was wending my way out of Yorkshire and into Derbyshire. After around 20 minutes or so of a steadfastly uphill bus journey, the urban sprawl of the Steel City begin to give way to open countryside. My heart was gladdened when I saw the sign proclaiming entry to the Peak District, which seemed to coincide with the changing of the landscape. Rocky outcrops and soaring hills dominated the surroundings, with green swathes of sloping field running on into the distance as the mid-morning mist was quickly burned away by the strengthening sun. Ever since I first visited the Peak District, I've always felt an affinity for its scenery and the sheer majesty of its natural beauty. This is an ancient landscape, sculpted and wrought by nature, thankfully maintained and preserved by humanity so that it can be enjoyed for generations. As well as being very scenic, the bus ride also encompassed moments of awe and peril as the bus squeezed down narrow country lanes through villages of stone cottages. Eventually though, just before 11am, we had reached our destination. I disembarked the bus at the Castleton bus station, ready to begin my day of alcohol exploration. As well as excitement, I couldn't help but feel a sense of trepidation. Would Castleton be as good as I remembered it? Had I painted a false picture of the village? Would my rose-tinted glasses be fogged by disappointment? There was only one way to find out. 

Following a quick toilet break at the public toilets next to the bus station, I set my sights on my first pub of the day. This was only a few yards back down the road along which the bus had entered the village. Memories came flooding back as I made my way to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.

This traditional village inn is the only pub in Castleton currently listed in the Good Beer Guide (2025). It was originally built in 1660 and gained its licence as a pub in 1748, when it became a coaching inn. The present name dates from 1876. It also holds a special place in my heart as the pub where my love for real ale was fully realised. My last trip here had been something of an epiphany which caused my then newly-fledged taste for Britain's best drink to spring forth fully formed. Entering through the front door gives you the options of going left or right. Going right will take you to the restaurant, whilst left will see you enter the bar area. The interior is very much in keeping with a pub of this style and age. Wooden beams criss-cross the ceiling, some of which are inscribed with the names of the landlords of the pub, dating back to 1746. The seating takes the form of settles and wooden tables and chairs, arranged around the edge of the room. The walls are whitewashed, with artefacts and old photos of the village. A smaller snug space is at the rear of the room. The bar is central to the building and features 6 handpulls. I jumped for joy (metaphorically speaking, think of my knees) when I saw what the lineup had to offer. 5 of the 6 handpulls were in use, with a choice between Acorn Barnsley Bitter, Bradfield Farmers Blonde, Abbeydale Moonshine, Peak Ales Bakewell Best and Abbeydale Deception. I felt an immediate sense of giddy nostalgia. When I was last here, it was Abbeydale Moonshine that had finally crossed me over to the delightful world of real ale and cemented the start of a love affair with proper beer that continues to this day. It was too great an opportunity to pass up. I went straight for the Moonshine, parted with £2.40 for a half, and moved over to one of the settles opposite the bar. For the next few minutes, I'd gone back in time to the day, years before, where this had all begun. The Moonshine was as good as I remembered. Absolutely perfect. It remains my favourite real ale to this day and I have this place to thank. Being in this pub, with this beer, and recreating the moment so many years later, created a sensation bordering on the spiritual. What a start to the day!

I was brimming with hope as I left Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. The fact that my memories of the place had been vindicated suggested good things were to come for the rest of the day's events. Leaving the pub, I turned left, heading back down How Lane in the direction of the bus station and the centre of the village. The road curves round to the left, where it becomes Back Street. I followed the road, trying to keep as close to the walls of the adjacent buildings as possible. The narrow road means heavy goods vehicles swing around the bends at quite alarming angles. My next destination lies on the junction of Back Street and Cross Street. Next up would be Ye Olde Nags Head.

This is another 17th century, former coaching inn and another premises that has remained relatively unchanged in the intervening years. The entrance is to the front of the building, accessed up a flight of steps from Cross Street. A relatively small entranceway opens out into a foyer, which again has a choice of directions. Going left will take you to a restaurant area. The smaller bar area is to the right. The carved wooden bar presides over an area of exposed stone walls, wooden furniture and exposed beams covered in pump clips. A staircase in one corner leads up to the toilets and there is also en-suite accommodation. The bar area itself gives the impression of a classic Peak District inn, welcoming and comfortable and, when the feature fireplace is lit, no doubt very cosy. The bar itself is well stocked. A bank of 7 handpulls can be found here, 5 of which were in use on the day. The available beers were Lucky Hoof (the house beer, brewed by Intrepid), Intrepid Navio, Bradfield Farmers Stout, Welbeck Abbey Henrietta and Stancill Stainless. Whilst I was familiar with Intrepid by name, my experience with their beers has been virtually non-existent, so it seemed perfectly logical to give them a go here and I settled for Navio (4%). This cost £2.55 for a half. I withdrew to a bench adjacent to the bar, looking out into the wider bar space and taking in the surroundings. Ye Olde Nags Head has previously featured in the Good Beer Guide and it's easy to see why. The Navio is delicious. Billed as a 'modern bitter' to use the marketing parlance, this is a golden ale brewed with US, UK and European hops. The aromas are citrusy with the flavours conveying marmalade. In short, it's a very drinkable interpretation of a session beer. The brewery itself is based further down the Hope Valley, on the site of an old Roman fort, the history of which influences the beer names. 

Before too long, my glass was empty and it was time to depart Ye Olde Nags Head. I still had a little bit of time before the next destination opened but I'd factored this into my itinerary in order to give myself more time to explore. As mentioned earlier, I'd certainly picked a decent day for it. Spring has well and truly sprung. The skies were a perfect blue, the sun was beaming down and the temperature was decidedly mild. Under these conditions, a seasonal eudemonia sets in and my mood is always lifted. I spent a good amount of time wandering the village, taking in the sites, specifically Peveril Castle, perched high on its outcrop overlooking proceedings, and Peak Cavern, otherwise known as The Devil's Arse, one of Castleton's 4 show caves and the only one to have formed naturally. The others are the result of mining in the area. Peak Cavern also boasts the largest natural cave entrance in Britain. I'd visited both the castle and the cave, as well as Speedwell Cavern which is permanently flooded with tours conducted solely by boat, on my previous trip and would sadly not have time to do the same on this occasion. Still, it was nice to be back and to reacquaint myself with their presence. 

After my brief excursion around the village, which resulted in a lot of photos being taken, I was ready to hit pub number 3. This would one of 2 that lie on the same street, Castle Street, off the main road through the village, under the watchful eye of the aforementioned fortress. The next stop would be The George.

The George was built in 1543 and has been family-run by the current tenants since 2018. The pub is owned by Wells and is Grade II listed. Its location in the village, at the far end of Castle Street opposite the church has seen it described as Castleton's only 'back street' pub. It's not immediately obvious who the George it is named after actually refers to. It's likely to be a monarch or someone of great importance, although the monarch at the time of its construction was Henry VIII. Passing through the suntrap front drinking area will take you into a cosy two-roomed layout, with flagstone floors in the bar area and a carpeted restaurant to the other side. Both sides are served by a curved central bar. To the rear is a corridor that leads to the toilets. There is also a rear garden with views towards Mam Tor. Internal seating is traditional wooden furniture. A real fireplace faces the bar, and was inexplicably lit when I arrived. The decoration includes images of the village plus numerous awards that the pub has won. The George has won awards for its sustainability aims, including Pub Aid Community Sustainability Hero in both 2024 and 2025. It keeping with this theme, the pub grows its own produce which is used in its kitchen. It also utilises solar power, is big on recycling and even keeps its own bees. There's certainly a welcoming buzz about the pub (pun intended and I won't apologise for it). 5 handpulls are located on the bar, split across both sides. These usually feature a couple of beers from Brewpoint (Wells's brewing arm) alongside well-known bigger brands. This turned out to be the case at the time of my visit. Alongside Brewpoint Ruggers and Anchorman, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wainwright, and Black Sheep Best Bitter were also available. I opted for the Wainwright (£2.65 a half) and wandered outside to take advantage of the glorious weather and soak up some much needed Vitamin D. I did briefly return inside to use the toilet but I would finish my drink in the sun. The Wainwright was in good condition. Whilst it wouldn't necessarily be an obvious first choice amongst the options available, I thought I'd give it a go all the same and it turned out to be a wise idea. On the whole, The George is a cracking pub! It should be commended for its commitment to sustainability, as well as the warm welcome and the quality of its offering. People are often quick to criticise pubs for making efforts to go against the grain but, with climate change and the environment rightly becoming more of a concern, we can all learn a lot from the commitments being made here. 

I didn't have far to go at all for my next stop and it would again be a place that I'd visited before. As mentioned previously, the next pub is on the same street as The George. I would now be stopping off at The Castle Inn.

This stone-built pub is hundreds of years old and previously acted as a coaching inn, being a stopping off point for the Wellington Express, which travelled between Manchester and Sheffield in the 1800s. Now operated by Mitchells and Butlers, as part of its Vintage Inns chain, The Castle aims to create an authentic atmosphere. Past the stone frontage and the outside drinking area with its rattan furniture, you will find the entrance to the pub, which leads into the bar area, located on the right. A corridor beyond this extends to the toilets. A staircase leads up to the guest bedrooms above. Whilst the bar area itself is relatively small, there is a decent amount of seating stretching around the edge of the room. Wooden beams, candles on tables and local photographs adorning the walls add to the ambience, although the candles were obviously not lit so early in the day. The sash windows are large, allowing lots of natural light to filter through into the atmospheric space. More tables for dining can be found across the corridor from the bar. The bar options here were from 3 of 5 available handpumps, offering a choice between Abbeydale Moonshine, Sharp's Doom Bar and Wainwright. As loathe as I was to repeat a beer, I didn't really fancy Doom Bar and instead I went for the Moonshine (£2.20 a half). If nothing else, it would be a good point of comparison between here and Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese from earlier in the day. I decided once again to enjoy my beer outside. I'd chosen my arrival at a good time. A large group, who appeared to all be wearing gym and workout clothes, had arrived before me but were taking their time to get to the bar so I snuck ahead so I wouldn't be waiting for ages. The Moonshine here was decent. It definitely wasn't as good as that which I'd had earlier but it was far from awful. I hadn't just come here for the beer though. The Castle is allegedly very haunted, with 4 spirits believed to be in residence. The most well-known of these is that of a woman, jilted at the altar, who still appears in the building, the location of her reception, still in her wedding dress. One witness is known to have run out of the building screaming after an encounter with this sorrowful wraith whilst another claims that the ghost only appeared from the knees up. The apparition of a man in a blue pinstripe suit has also been seen by two previous proprietors. Room 4 is allegedly haunted and home to strange activity. The details of this, and that of the 4th ghost, are scant. On my previous visit, there was a large board inside the entrance that provided information on all of the hauntings but this has since, rather annoyingly, been removed and I have thus far been unable to glean more information. Still, The Castle is still worthy of a visit, however you feel about being potentially terrified by a ghostly bride. 

With my second Moonshine of the day down the hatch, I broke for lunch. This I enjoyed on a bench near to the old defensive wall, not far from where the tourist visitor centre is located. There were more people around by this stage. As far as I could tell, it was mostly tourists but there were some locals. There were also a few school groups, and smaller family groups. I also saw a lot of people walking, either by themselves or with dogs. This is certainly the right location for exactly that sort of activity. Lunch consumed, it was back to the grind. My next stop was mere feet away. I was back on Cross Street now. Onto the Bulls Head.

  

Recently refurbished, the Bulls Head is a Robinsons operated pub and hotel, set in a slightly elevated position overlooking fields to the rear. The interior has a roughly two roomed layout. The bar area, to the left, is smaller, with leather sofas and a mix of wooden furniture. The bar is large and set almost opposite the door. The dining room area is larger, with wood panelling. To the rear, a door leads out into the car park but also a large outside seating area, with wooden furniture. There is also an enclosed barn for additional outdoor drinking and dining, although this was closed during my visit. This being a Robinsons pub it should come as no surprise that their beers are the ones on offer. The 4 handpulls offer a variety from their portfolio. My choices on the day were Trooper, Idaho, Dizzy Blonde and Unicorn. As partial as I am to Trooper, Idaho was a new beer for me, plus the pump clip was shaped like a bear, so I decided to give that one a go. This is a 4.6% IPA, triple hopped with Idaho 7 hops from an Idaho hop farm. As expected, it's a big flavoursome beer with juicy tropical and citrus flavours with aromas of soft fruit and a backbone of gentle pine. Drinking a beer of this type in the sunshine, overlooking green fields, in the shadow of imposing Derbyshire hills, whilst the sun radiates down, is something to be treasured. 

I was in something of a quandary as I left the Bulls Head. It was much earlier in the day than I expected it to be at this point. I'd planned for it to take longer to get around all of the pubs on the agenda. As it was, it was barely 1.30 and I only had two pubs left in Castleton. I resolved to slow things down a bit at the next pub and ponder my next move. This time, I retraced my steps. I headed back down Cross Street, turned left and then right so I was back on How Lane. My next stop was The Peak Hotel.

The Peak Hotel began life as an inn in 1809 when it was under the stewardship of Robert Schofield Watson, a butcher by trade, who also operated a shop down an alley across the road, as well as owning the field opposite. The property was leased from the How family, who have given their name to the road outside. At the time, the pub was known as The Board. Following Robert's death in in 1828, at the age of just 46, and the tragic death of his 11 year old son only a fortnight later, his widow Deborah took on the pub, with their sons William and Benjamin taking over the butchers. The pub name changed to The Heart around this period. Deborah eventually passed the inn to Benjamin and his new wife, Harriet, in 1839. Harriet died in 1844, aged just 23, and Benjamin remained at the inn with their children, renaming it the Butcher's Arms and eventually purchasing it from Elizabeth How upon the death of his mother in 1846. In the deeds, the Peak Hotel is listed as a house, barn and garden, a cottage and croft, and a butchers shop. Benjamin Watson finally sold the property in 1887 to Greaves & Co. of Norfolk Brewery in Sheffield. Rebuilding and alterations took place two years later, including stabling for 50 horses and an outside balcony to create a Swiss cottage effect. This coincided with the discovery of a 5 foot long sword from the Cromwell period in a nearby stream. The building was officially renamed the Peak Hotel in 1890 and reopened on May 13th 1891. Gilmour's Brewery of Sheffield bought the hotel in the 1930s and it was then sold to Tetley's. The building has been under the current ownership since 2014. I wasn't sure what to expect when I entered the Peak Hotel but I needn't have worried. Upon entering, the bar is directly opposite the door. To the left, an area of comfy seating occupies space inside the front windows. Beyond this, a more secluded space to the rear has wooden furniture, bookcases and an upright piano. To the right of the entrance, another table is tucked into an alcove. An area beyond this acts as a restaurant. To the rear, there is a sheltered garden, accessed up a flight of steps. The toilets are located inside, to the rear of the building, in an area underneath a staircase that leads up to the accommodation above. The decor is inviting, with old advertising posters, breweriana, mirrors and other items reflecting changes in attitudes to marketing down the years. This is all accompanied by a soundtrack of 50s and 60s classics. On the bar, you will find 5 handpulls, the main reason for my visit. All of these were in use at the time of my arrival offering Timothy Taylor Landlord, Bradfield Farmers Blonde, Theakston Old Peculier, Theakston Best and Wainwright. With more time to kill here than I'd initially anticipated, I decided that I'd treat myself to a pint, specifically of the Farmers Blonde (4%). This set me back £4.90, which is not unreasonable given the location and I wandered out to the garden, although this turned out to be mostly in the shade so I returned inside and sat in the area of the pub towards the rear. The Farmers Blonde was certainly a cracking pint! This is a very pale, blonde beer with citrus and summer fruit aromas. It's very easy to drink and certainly very refreshing. Whilst I supped my delicious pint, I tried to figure out what to do. My scheduled train back from Sheffield wasn't until 17.45. This meant I would need to get the 4pm bus back from Castleton at the absolute latest. I only had one venue left to visit in Castleton and this wouldn't be opening until 3pm. At this point in time, it was approaching 2pm. In my eyes, I had 3 options. 1) I could continue to potter around Castleton whilst I waited for the last venue to open. 2) I could skip the last pub and get an earlier bus back to Sheffield and possibly have a beer at one of their fine drinking establishments. 3) I could wander into the neighbouring village of Hope, where I knew there would be at least one pub I could while away time at, and then wander back and hit the last Castleton pub before the bus home. 

In the end, I picked option 3, which was, obviously, the most logistically taxing. Still, it was a nice day and I wasn't ready to say goodbye to the Peak District just yet. The village of Hope is some 1 and a half miles distant and is pretty much a straight line along the main road that I'd entered Castleton along on the bus earlier. My aim was to get to Hope for around 2.30, have a pint, and then get back to Castleton for 3.30, knowing that would give me enough time for a half in the final venue, which is a stone's throw from the bus station. Off I went, safe in the knowledge that, worst case scenario, if I ran out of time, I could catch the bus from Hope instead. Thankfully, my determination paid off. I enjoyed a very good walk from one village to the other, taking in the sights of sheep and green fields, hills rising behind, the oddly out of place spectre of the nearby cement works sticking up in the foreground. The walk took me around half an hour, by which time a pint was very much required. Luckily, there is a Good Beer Guide 2025 listed venue in Hope, and it happened to be open. I was looking forward to my detour to the Old Hall Hotel.

A hall was first built on this site in 1272, under the instruction of the recent crowned Edward I. This was demolished in the early 1500s and a new building was constructed in the foundations. These ancient remnants can be seen in the cellar under the bar. A stable yard and coach house were located to the rear. The gateposts that were once the entrance to the courtyard and an orchard are still visible. A lodge to the hall once stood here and this later became a smithy. In 1719, George I granted a licence for the hall to become an inn and it became known as The Stone Daggers. In 1876, it was officially renamed The Old Hall, as it had been referred to as such by locals for many years. Inside, much of the original features from the early 18th century rebuild still remain. The main entrance leads through into a well appointed bar area with a central bar, whitewashed walls and exposed beams. Wood panelled areas reflect the building's age as do oil paintings inserted into panelling elsewhere. Beer tankards hang from the beams and old beer and whisky bottles are mounted on shelving near the ceiling. Inside, the furniture is traditional wood, with wooden flooring in most areas and a flagstoned section that runs parallel to the bar. To the right is a snug with an open fire, as well as access to the toilets. There is an outdoor seating area outside the front entrance along with a small car park. In an annexe, there is a tea room, under the same ownership, that provides food for the pub. The Old Hall is operated by Theakston, which bodes well for the beer choice. The 6 handpulls on the bar, all of which were in use, did indeed include various options from their range, specifically Lightfoot, Old Peculier and Best. Guest beers were also present, in the form of Stancill Black, St. Austell Conversion and Wainwright. It would have positively disgraceful of me to not enjoy the fruits of Theakston's labour so I opted for a pint of Lightfoot (4.1%) at £5.30 and headed outside to enjoy it. And enjoy it I did! Lightfoot was very good! A sessionable blonde beer, it's citrusy and smooth and very refreshing after a long walk! It was definitely good at revitalising me after my stroll over from Castleton. Mission accomplished. At least partly so. 

Time check. It was 2.50. Pint finished, I resolved to return to Castleton, again on foot and tick off the last part of my itinerary. Making the slog back down the main road, I entered Castleton for the second time that day, around 3.25. The final stop on my grand day out had just opened its doors. My last stop would be the Swiss Tap. 

My final destination before the bus is a modern bar that operates as part of B&B but is also open to non-residents. It also operates as a restaurant for both B&B guests and the general public. The layout is micropub in style. A small seating area at the front leads to the single entrance which opens into the main bar space. The bar runs along the rear of the room. A small number of tables and chairs are accommodated into the space, along with leather sofas that run under both windows. The lighting is bright and the decor is modern and contemporary. An archway leads through to a larger room with the same aesthetic. TVs are on the wall, usually showing sport. Toilets are through a doorway next to the bar. Amongst the relatively mainstream keg and spirit options, there is also a bank of 4 handpulls on the bar. Half of these were occupied when I entered, with a duo from Abbeydale: Daily Bread and Moonshine. Resisting the urge to have Moonshine for the third time in a day, I went for the alternative. Daily Bread (3.8%) is Abbeydale's take on a classic English bitter. It's copper in colour, malty and smooth, creating a well balanced beer overall, rounded out by subtle hop flavours. I parted with £2.45 for a half. It was a bit different to everything else I'd had to drink all day and all the better for it. I detected biscuit notes which made the whole thing moreish. 

I had no time for more though. With my half depleted, I took my leave and walked the few short yards to the bus station, still with plenty of time to spare. Before too long, I was conveyed back across the hills and dales to the metropolitan hubbub of Sheffield and further on to Nottingham, although not before a short delay due to a points failure. With my return journey being as long as my outbound one, I had plenty of time to reflect. What a bloody great day I'd had! Castleton had fully lived up to my expectations and, in a lot of ways, surpassed what I could remember about it from my one previous trip. On paper, a solo trip to the Peak District could have been quite daunting and intimidating. However, my experience as a solo traveller has become a lot more extensive over the past few years and for that I'm glad. I doubt I would have had the courage or the determination to make this trip in the early days of the blog. I'm truly grateful that I'm able to push forward and visit and revisit places and summarise my experiences in these pages, and I'm also grateful to everyone that takes the time to read them. I can take two main things from my trip to Castleton and my side quest to Hope. The first is that, the beer and pub scene, certainly in this part of the Peaks, is not to be sniffed at. Being in such close proximity to a number of excellent breweries certainly helps matters. The second is that I shouldn't have left it so long to make a return visit. I love the Peak District. Its soaring landscapes, hills and caves are something that we should be immensely grateful for and protective of, and it's myriad excellent pubs should be seen as an extension of that. There's something almost indescribably peaceful and rejuvenating about drinking a well kept beer, surrounded by gorgeous scenery, and watching the world roll by. The pace of life seems different here. As I departed Castleton, away from the shadow of Peveril Castle and the shivering slopes of Mam Tor, it was hard not to feel a pang of sadness. However, that will always be accompanied by a sense of incredible happiness that I managed to get back here. Whatever else is going on in the world and, let's be honest, there's a lot, you always need somewhere where, just for a few hours, everything feels sane. 

Pub of the day: The George. Great location, cracking beer and deservedly recognised for their sustainability credentials.

Beer of the day: Abbeydale Moonshine at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. Predictable I know but what can I say?

Biggest surprise: The Peak Hotel. Quirky, comfortable and welcoming location that was much more than expected. 

Derby Road Delights

Every so often, I like to make an effort to stay closer to home and re-evaluate areas that I've not been to for a while, in an attempt to see what, if anything has changed, in the intervening months and years. This can often be useful in determining whether a specific area has improved, declined, or something in between and, more often than not, acts as a barometer to measure the current state of play across the wider area. It was time for just such a revisit. On this occasion, I turned my attentions to an area of the city that has been, perhaps unfairly, somewhat maligned in recent times. Since this particular location last featured here, new premises have opened, some have closed, more than one has changed hands and some have been resurrected having been seemingly lost. If the title of this blog hasn't given the game away, let me be clearer: my aim was to recreate the 'Derby Road stroll', making my way up Derby Road to Canning Circus, reappraising the pubs along the way to see how they are fairing and whether this part of town still deserves to be thought of in glowing terms, at least as far as its drinking establishments are concerned. And so, last week, on a chilly and unsettled Thursday, I made my way into Nottingham from home. I have recently taken to walking into the centre from Clifton, a distance of approximately 3 miles, which takes me something within the region of an hour or so. 

Having tackled a couple of small rain showers and a toilet break, I arrived in the city centre shortly before 1pm. I had a strong route in mind although, with my trip being midweek, the opening hours of my targeted locations vary so there would be a lot of toing and froing up and down Derby Road throughout the day. However, I must confess, that things would not be quite as simple as that. I had a couple of other venues in mind for the start of the day, both of which have recently reopened under new management following periods of uncertainty, and one of which I have a very personal connection to. Having arrived into town via Carrington Street, I took a left onto Canal Street and then crossed over, making my way up Maid Marian Way. Taking a left onto Hounds Gate, I turned right at the end, emerging in the shadow of Nottingham Castle, in the midst of a heavy shower. My first destination of the day can be found on the junction of Friar Lane and Standard Hill, opposite the castle entrance. I would begin my day at The Crow.

The Crow started life as BZR, a shots bar with an infamous 'triples for singles' policy. When this venue closed, it was taken over by Magpie Brewery who converted it into the Crafty Crow, an independent venue focusing on real ale, craft beer and small batch products from independent producers. Those of you who have been long time readers may remember that I worked here for around 4 years, until the autumn of 2021. During that time, I worked my way up to GM until leaving for pastures new, and I'd only been back twice since. The old adage states that you should never go back. There is something slightly intimidating about returning to somewhere you've previously worked and once had a deep connection with but, as it would turn out, I needn't have worried. The Crafty Crow closed its doors in 2022, due to market pressures brought on by the pandemic and subsequent economic issues, with Magpie Brewery ending their lease. In July 2023, it reopened, and is now once again run by an independent operator, who has put their own spin on things, including changing the name to its now shortened version. Whilst I had revisited since the reopening, this would be the first time that I'd gone back in my capacity as a blogger and I was looking forward, although with some apprehension, as to what I would find inside. Generally, the overall decor has remained intact. Rustic, bare wood and soft furnishings are arranged across a split level layout. A flight of steps leads up to the main door which opens into a downstairs seating area. A second flight heads up to the larger level where the bar can be found. Another, smaller, raised area is located opposite the bar. The bar is central and square with service to three sides. It is on the bar where the biggest change can be found. Gone is the repurposed brewing vessel that acted as a font for keg beers. The 12 handpulls for 8 real ales and 4 ciders have been reduced to a single bank of 6, with ciders now served directly from the box. This bank of 6 occupies the central arm of the square bar. The keg offering is now certainly more mainstream and takes up several T bars on another arm of the bar unit. The third side is free of dispense equipment and merely acts as a service area. There are other changes too. A number of TVs have been added. These are mounted above the bar and also occupy wall space in the seating areas. One area of former seating is now occupied by a pool table and dartboard. At the top of the stairs, next to the bar, there are now a fruit machine and an electronic quiz machine. The Crow now hosts regular live music, quizzes and drag nights, as well as showing live sport. It's a stark change. However, I am pleased to see that the commitment to real ale remains strong. On the day of my visit, 5 of the 6 handpulls were in use, offering beers from local breweries. My first options of the day were Black Iris Endless Summer, Blue Monkey BG Sips, Castle Rock Preservation, Castle Rock Tackle This! and Lenton Lane Atlas Remap. I hadn't yet had the chance to try Tackle This!, a special Castle Rock beer brewed for the Six Nations, so it was now time to give it a go. This is a 4% golden ale with a delicate, malty sweetness, balanced hop bitterness and subtle notes of tropical fruit and citrus. It's a refreshing beer and the perfect antidote to my long walk. Not only is it delicious it's also for a good cause. The beer has been brewed in partnership with Oddballs, a charity promoting awareness of testicular cancer, and 10p of each pint purchased goes directly to the charity. It set me back £2.30 for a half and went down very well indeed.

My return to The Crow had been nostalgic and worthwhile. It is nice to see the place back open again. The remnants of its former life are still in evidence and have laid the groundwork for what it is now. It seems to have adjusted its offering to adapt to these uncertain times. The beer is still good. Aesthetically very little has changed. The toilets are still in the same place and mostly unchanged, and the preponderance of cast iron corvids throughout is undimmed. However, it does no good to dwell on the past. Onwards we must go! Leaving the Crow through the accessible entrance onto Standard Hill, I turned right, where my next location is clearly visible. Heading uphill, I arrived, a few short yards later, at The Roundhouse. 

The Roundhouse is one of Nottingham's most unique buildings. It began life as a circular Victorian hospital ward, which opened in 1900 as part of Nottingham General Hospital's Jubilee Wing. The hospital itself opened in September 1782 on what was then Derry Hill. Two of the hospital's original subscribers were Robert Nightingale, uncle of Florence, and the industrialist Richard Arkwright. The hospital closed in 1992, with the buildings subsequently taken over by the University of Nottingham, leaving this building as the only survivor. The surrounding area also has its place in history. King Charles I is credited with starting the English Civil War nearby, when he raised his standard here on August 22nd 1642. The subsequent historical appreciation of this event led to the area being renamed Royal Standard Place and Standard Hill. This truly is a building like no other. Entering on the ground floor brings you to a staircase that heads up into the main area. The toilets are located just inside the entrance, down a short passageway. Disabled access is to the rear of the building. Portraits and photos of the local area and eminent historical figures are displayed on the staircase. The main room opens out, making the most of the circular layout. The bar is front and centre and there is various seating throughout, mostly in the form of booths that occupy space around the walls, where they benefit from the large windows. More traditional seating is in the centre of the room. The internal layout has been broken up by pillars. The ceiling is high and painted with a mural by Richard Green. It's a very interesting and unique space, made all the more surreal when you come to the realisation that the booth seating very likely occupies the spaces where hospital beds would have been in the building's original incarnation. Putting that mildly disturbing thought to one side, it was time to peruse the bar options. A bank of 4 handpulls can be found here, 3 of which were in use on my visit, offering me a choice between Fuller's London Pride, Timothy Taylor Landlord, and Castle Rock Screech Owl. I settled for a half of Landlord (£2.50) and made my way to one of the booths to soak a little bit of sun which, predictably, had come out as soon as I'd entered the first pub. The Roundhouse is another place that I'd not visited for a while. It struggled post lockdown and did close for a period, which led to the previous owners calling it a day. It's now under new management and seems to be doing well by all accounts. They certainly know how to keep Landlord in good condition!

Thus far, my day was proving promising. It was onto the crux of the situation now. It was time to tackle Derby Road. Leaving The Roundhouse, I headed left and then followed the road around to the right. This took me back downhill and back onto Maid Marian Way. I then turned left and continued on. Successfully negotiating the chaos caused by roadworks brought about by Nottingham City Council's decision to turn a roundabout into a T junction, I eventually reached the bottom of Derby Road. Quite why the council, in their infinite wisdom, have decided to do this is anyone's guess but they claim it will improve traffic in the long term. We'll see about that. At the moment it's causing carnage but that's enough about traffic management systems, at least for now. The rest of my afternoon would be spent zigzagging up and down Derby Road, one of the main thoroughfares that leads out of the city and in the direction of Derby, Long Eaton and Queen's Medical Centre, amongst other romantic holiday destinations. I began the uphill trudge, made more difficult by wet pavements, and arrived at my next destination in due course. Located on the left hand side as you head uphill is one of Nottingham's most beloved watering holes, Hand & Heart.

This fine establishment is one of the many pubs in Nottingham, especially at this end of the city, to have caves incorporated into its structure. Here, they occupy the rear of the building, adding an extra touch of ambience to proceedings. The pub itself dates back to at least the 1860s when the caves were used for beer storage and maturation. In 1879, it was registered as a beer house under William Thomas Fisher. The pub once brewed its own beers but this operation ceased in 1933. By 1949, it was part of the Bradley's estate before becoming a Shipstone's pub until the mid-1990s. Up until fairly recently, the Hand & Heart was independently operated. This changed following lockdown as the pub struggled and never fully reopened. It is now owned and operated by Pub People who, regardless of what opinions one might have about their business model, have done an excellent job in restoring it to its former glory. The decor has been updated but left relatively unchanged and the bar has been extended to occupy the majority of the front room. Seating is a mixture of high tables and comfy seating. A small number of tables are located in the front windows, with a small snug-like space to one side. The caves to the rear are used exclusively for dining, with low tables and benches, and festooned with fairy lights. The gents toilets, previously located in the cave section have been relocated to upstairs, though the ladies toilets remain in situ. It's clear that a lot of time and money has been spent upgrading this place. It is looking resplendent. I can also confirm that it does an excellent line in Sunday lunches. That's not why I was here though. I was here for beer and I was in luck. 5 handpulls are front and centre. Once again, they are predominantly of a local flavour. Alongside Bass, there was also Nottingham Superdelic, Lenton Lane Guinevere, Nottingham EPA and Dancing Duck Dark Drake. I was unfamiliar with Guinevere (4.8%), a collab between Lenton Lane and Adventure Beer Co. so it was that which won my vote (£2.45 a half). This turned out to be a great choice. It's a citrusy pale ale, brewed with Nelson Sauvin and Lemondrop hops, alongside oats for a smooth, rounded mouthfeel. The finish is equal parts hoppy and smooth. It went down a treat. During these trips, it's always nice when I can have a conversation with staff. This was the case here, helped by the fact that member of staff on duty, Jesse, is a former work colleague of mine. We discussed how the pub was doing, and the general day-to-day challenges of hospitality, before I found myself with an empty glass and it was time to relocate. 

I turned left upon leaving the Hand & Heart and continued uphill, where I soon came upon a sorry sight that has befallen one of the licensed premises on this route. The Ropewalk, former student haven, lies empty and boarded up and has been for some time, along with the Dancing Dragon Chinese restaurant next door. The Ropewalk featured in my last blog entry to cover this area and I did even work a few shifts there back in the day, so it's sad to see it in such a state. What its future holds is unclear but hopefully someone will come to the rescue and return it to its former glory. Fingers crossed. I had reached the area known as Canning Circus. What was once an area of countryside on the outskirts of the city is now essentially a traffic island surrounded by residential properties and local businesses. It is named after George Canning, the former Tory statesman, who once held the dubious honour of having the shortest time as Prime Minister, managing 119 days, before dying in office. This unwanted record now belongs to Liz Truss, she of the pork markets and defeat to a lettuce. My next stop lies within the Canning Circus conurbation. Another destination in this part of town with an excellent reputation, and one of two Good Beer Guide 2025 listed venues on the trip, my attention now turned to the Sir John Borlase Warren. 

Built in an area that was previously a crossroads, the building that is now the Sir John Borlase Warren, was constructed in 1796, replacing a wooden stile. Little is known of its history after this, although it became a coaching inn in 1814, having originally been a private house. It is named after an 18th century naval hero, who was born in Stapleford (which has a Wetherspoons pub of the same name) in 1753. After a distinguished military career he became a diplomat to St. Petersburg and an MP for Great Marlow in Essex, before he passed away in 1822. The pub in its current form reopened in 2014, as a Project William pub under the guidance of Everards, originally with Brown Ales but later with Lincoln Green. Its warren of internal rooms, spread over three floors, has changed relatively little. The ground floor, featuring the bar and other public areas, has been decorated to a high standard. The bar sits to one side with other rooms extending off of a central section. A room beyond the bar has a snug feel, with low tables and chairs. A smaller room, opposite the bar, features a real fire, traditional items and windows that look out over the street outside. Beyond this, down a small flight of steps, is another, more secluded space with additional seating. To the rear, a corridor leads to the toilets and there is also an outside drinking corridor, leading to an extremely well appointed garden, regarded as one of the best in the city. There is also an upstairs patio for sunny days, although better suited to ones that are warmer than the day I chose to visit! Decor throughout is of old brewery posters, artefacts, and framed magazine covers, including broadsheet Beano pages above the urinal in the gents. Everything about this pub reflects a modern twist on an historic building. On the private floors above the bar, much has remained intact from the pub's days as a coaching inn, including the servants rooms, located in the roof. That's not the only remnant of the past that may potentially linger on. There is a private flat on the second floor, below the old servants rooms which, for some time in in the mid-2000s, had a reputation for an unsettling atmosphere that would come and go, along with bouts of violent poltergeist activity in the vicinity. That's not all. The pub boasts a deep cellar, cut from the rock itself, with caves extending three floors underground. A paranormal investigation carried out here resulted in a disembodied voice being picked up on a voice recorder. The voice went unheard to the naked ear of the participants but was apparently a male voice responding to a comment made by a member of the group. The lower cellars are currently off-limits, which makes you wonder why. The reason for any unexplained activity here is unknown but it is known that a gallows was once located in this area and, with it being a crossroads, the mortal remains of those hanged, as well as those who had taken their own lives, were buried here, in unconsecrated ground, in bygone days. Luckily, there's much to enjoy for those still in the land of the living too. The bar is stacked! 12 handpulls can be found on the bar here. 9 of these were occupied on the day in question. Whilst two of these were given over to cider, in the form of Thistly Cross Whisky Cask and Pulp Mango Daiquri, the rest were dominated by ale. With the pub being a Lincoln Green concern, their products dominate, although there are guests available too. The choices were Marion, Hood, Archer, Tuck and Little Piece of Heaven, all from Lincoln Green, accompanied by Little Tonk and Everard's Sunchaser as guests. I don't have Lincoln Green beers nearly as much as I should so it was as good a time as any to rectify that. I went for the Archer (£2.25 a half) and moved into the middle room where I could look out onto the street. The Archer was in cracking form and a reminder that I've been remiss in not tracking it down more often. More than that, the Sir John, is an absolute gem. It's a cracking place to enjoy a beer, soak up the history and wonder how this area might have looked when the pub stood alone at a crossroads, with the city visible down the hill. How times change. One thing that hasn't changed though is that the pub thoroughly deserves its reputation. 

As sad as it was to leave the Sir John, I had much to be getting on with. Leaving the pub, I turned left, crossed over at the traffic lights and continued on, keeping a future stop on my left. I was technically now on Alfreton Road and my next stop was the Organ Grinder.

Previously, this was the Red Lion which, in 1879, was a registered beer house with Henry Hutchinson as it's landlord. In more recent times, the former Red Lion was bought by Giltbrook based Blue Monkey brewery and refurbished as their flagship pub, the first of 4 across the East Midlands. Inside, whilst the decor is modern and has been upgraded, the olde worlde feel has been retained by sympathetic use of the original layout. The bar area is a single room with a wood-burning fire opposite. Seating areas are located on opposite sides of the entrance, with the one to the left slightly larger. To the rear, a small flight of steps leads up to a more secluded seating area. Beyond this, more steps lead up to a covered and heated roof terrace, which itself leads to a first floor function room. A downstairs corridor leads to the toilets. The decoration is minimalist, in keeping with Blue Monkey's aesthetic. Unsurprisingly, Blue Monkey beers take centre stage across the 9 hand pumps although there is an occasional guest beer. Available on the day were Primate, Mango IPA, Guerilla Stout, Infinity, Infinity Plus 1, BG Sips Santcherry and Chocolate Amaretto Guerilla with Batemans XXXB holding the guest slot. I am a fan of Blue Monkey beers, which is just as well given the circumstances. It took me a while to decide but I eventually opted for the Santcherry, although I was advised by the member of staff to try it first as it is an acquired taste. In the end, it was good enough for me and I parted with £2.30 for a half and moved to a table to the right of the door. In case the clumsy pun wasn't an indication, Santcherry (4.1%) is a cherry infused version of another one of Blue Monkey's beers, specifically Sanctuary, normally a copper best bitter. This version still boasts the malty and bitter backbone that you would expect but with a sweetness and a tartness from the cherry. It all balances together quite well, although I can easily appreciate why it might not be for everyone. I enjoyed it well enough though, and I also enjoyed my time here. It's been some time since I visited this particular Organ Grinder. Matt and I came here the last time the pub featured in the blog but my most recent visit was when Amy and I held our engagement party in the upstairs function room. We've been married 7 years this July so that should be an indication on how long ago that was! The pub is relatively unchanged in that time but still does what it does very well indeed. I was also reminded of another pub that once stood nearby, and from where my previous blog-based Canning Circus trip began, the Portland Arms on Portland Street. This closed many years ago and is now houses. It's at least good to see that some of the pubs in the area are doing their best to stand strong and act as bastions against the forces of change. 

I had already walked past my next location on my way to the Organ Grinder, which meant it was mere seconds between leaving one pub to get to the other. Located on the junction of Alfreton Road and St. Helen's Street, is The Good Fellow George.

  

This building began life as a branch of NatWest bank and dates from around 1960 when it was constructed as part of the post-war improvements of Radford. The frontage follows the curve of the adjacent road, itself part of a modern gyratory system, built to replace a roundabout. After the bank branch closed, the building was, for many years, a fancy dress shop which had its entrance hidden behind a cabinet outside. Following the closure of the shop, it became a pub, originally operated by the, now sadly defunct, Totally Brewed and named The Overdraught, in which guise it featured in a previous blog entry. Sadly, that venture also ran into trouble and it later closed before being resurrected in its current form, now named after the aforementioned Tory Prime Minister who lends his name to the area. Inside, the layout is virtually unaltered. The bar sits to one side, the front of which is decorated entirely with 2p pieces, in a nod to its former life. Booths occupy the curved side of the building, with more traditional furniture in the centre. The high ceilings and large windows provide lots of light. A balcony room upstairs overlooks the main floor. The original bank vault is still in the basement. Once again, it had been a while since I'd visited so it was promising to see a bank of 3 handpulls on the bar, alongside around a dozen keg fonts. Of the trio of hand pumps, 2 were offering tasty goodies, both from the portfolio of Lenton Lane, in this case Pale Moonlight and What is Pint? I opted for the latter (£2.40 a half) and took a seat at one of the booths. I was pleasantly surprised to be able to get here so early in the day as it was before their advertised opening hours but the doors were open and there were other customers, so happy days. I distinctly remember the building being bigger when it was a fancy dress shop but as that was almost twenty years ago, I can be forgiven for my memory being a but fuzzy. On the plus side, the beer was good. What is Pint? (4.2%) is a blonde ale, hopped with El Dorado, Idaho 7 and Simcoe hops. The end result is an intense flavour and a clean aroma that leads into a piney and citrusy finish. There was certainly something nostalgic about the way the day was shaping up. All of the venues so far had been ones I'd visited previously and had featured in these very pages in years gone past. It was time for something new.

The next part of my itinerary would see me heading back down Derby Road and then eventually retracing my steps back up. My original next stop had intended to be the Mist Rolling Inn, formerly Room With a Brew, and most recently known as The Good, The Bad and The Drunk. However, this turned out to be closed so I resolved to try again later. Back up the hill a short way, and this time on the right hand side of Derby Road, is a place that I'd never visited before: The Whistle & Flute.

 

The Whistle & Flute opened in 2022 in a former menswear shop of the same name. The name is the Cockney rhyming slang for 'suit'. The conversion to a pub has made good use of a deceptively large building. The decor is bare brick walls and exposed pipework with minimalist touches. The bar runs down one side of the room. TVs can be found throughout and there is a dartboard on one wall. A slightly raised area to one side houses a pool table and also has access to the toilets. A larger room extends off of the main room, this one with a projector screen and sofas. The old signage from the menswear shop is painted on the rear wall. The general layout is open plan with a good mix of seating throughout. The bar includes 4 handpulls. Two of these were offering cider, namely Lilley's Raspberry and Lilley's Passion Fruit Martini. The two remaining were providing a choice of ales, both from breweries unusual to the area. I had a choice between Lost Pier If Nothing Goes Right, Go Left and Fell Tinderbox. Given that the Tinderbox weighed in at 6.2%, I instead went for the former, from Brighton's Lost Pier (£2.60 a half). This is billed as an American pale ale at 4.5%. Hopped with Chinook, Centennial and Simcoe, it provides hits of grapefruit, pine and citrus. All in all, it's a very good beer from a brewery I had no prior knowledge of. The Whistle & Flute is a welcome addition to the Derby Road beer scene. I understand that the faux-industrial aesthetic might not be to everyone's taste but it suits this place, with its high ceilings and large front windows. The interesting beer selection also offers something a bit different for the connoisseur. It put me in mind of the Baker & Bear in Hucknall, which is no bad thing.

It was back up to the top of the hill now for another pub that has long earned its reputation for a cracking pint in comfortable surroundings. Across the square from the Sir John is the second Good Beer Guide 2025 listed pub on this trip: The Falcon Inn.

The Falcon was originally built in 1853 and was previously both a Shipstone's and Greenall's tied house. By 1864, it was a fully licensed premises under J. Hickling. Some slight alterations were made around 1919 but many original features remain, including the etched windows. The pub also has a cave cellar that measures 8m x 9m and includes a ventilation shaft. The Falcon has had a troubled history and was closed for a time before it reopened in October 2013. The interior has changed little. Two small rooms are located downstairs with a restaurant area/function room on the first floor. A corridor beyond the first room houses the toilets, although the gents toilets were originally open air when the pub was built. The bar is tucked into one corner with seating around the perimeter between the bar and the door. Another room lies just off of this, with a hatch between them. Historic photos of the area decorate the walls. The Falcon is renowned for its beer quality, hence the terms of my visit. 6 hand pumps occupy the bar and 4 of these were in use when I popped in, offering Oakham Citra, Welbeck Abbey Red Feather, Ossett Silver King and Titanic Plum Porter. No prizes for guessing that I went for the Citra (£2.25 a half). I moved to the table next to the door where I could best soak up the surroundings. Something about The Falcon stuck with me long after my visit was over. Was it the crackle of the log fire? The shelter from the cold and approaching dark? The feeling that, just for a moment, the world had stopped and all there was was the fire, and the warmth, and the beer and those four walls? Whatever it was, it's an utter travesty that I don't come to this pub more often. It's a cosy and welcoming place to spend some time, helped immeasurably by what was a cracking drop of Citra.

I had one more pub left to go and to say it would be a change of pace would be somewhat underselling it. Heading back down Derby Road, on the right as you head back towards the centre, was a pub that also has something of a reputation, though more for entertainment and the craic than for it's beer choice. Nevertheless, not to be perturbed, I made my way to Raglan Road.

 

The Raglan Road was formerly a pub known as the Hawksley, which it became after conversion from a music shop in 2008. The current name, from a poem by Patrick Kavanagh, dates from 2015 when it was repurposed as an Irish theme pub. Such is its reputation as such, it was recently voted one of the 10 best Irish pubs in the country, which is some feat in and of itself. The front entrance is accessed up a flight of steps, elevated above the pavement. Upon entry, the bar is central, with seating spread throughout and all manner of Irish theming. Live sport also features prominently and there are photos of famous sporting moments on the walls. Behind the bar, a small cave, cut directly into the sandstone, is used as a small seating area and there is a small beer garden to the rear, between the back of the pub and the building behind. A single, unisex toilet, is located down a short corridor behind the bar. At the time of my visit, the pub was gearing up for St. Patrick's day, which fell a few days later, although it was yesterday as I type this. This should go some way to explaining the balloons in the photo above. As a rule, Irish pubs, at least locally, don't tend to stock much by way of real ale. In this case, Raglan Road is a welcome exception. It has 4 handpulls, and 3 of these were in use, with a choice between Doom Bar and a duo from Shipstone's, namely Original and Gold Star. I went for the Gold Star (£2.20 a half) and moved to a more secluded area, a short distance from the bar, listening intently to the pop bangers being beamed through the speakers. The Gold Star was decent enough. The girl serving me struggled a bit as the pump was sucking back a lot, a sure sign that the barrel is almost at an end. She was honest enough though and confessed that she didn't know much about ale and asked me to taste it to make sure it was OK. It passed muster. It was by no means the best or worst beer I've ever had but, given that Irish bars aren't really known for this sort of thing, it did the job. Looking around at the effort this place goes to to lean into the Irishness, I can only imagine how busy the place gets at the weekend. Just based on photos and footage I've seen online, they do a roaring trade in good fun and frolics. Thankfully, I was there at a quieter time of day. 

Final drops of beer disposed of, I headed out. After another unsuccessful attempt to visit the Mist Rolling Inn, which was still closed long after its advertised opening time, I took the decision to call it a day and made the commute home, by bus this time. I do rather enjoy the opportunity to revisit local locations, especially when it's been a long time since I was last there. What can be said about the pubs on and around Derby Road? They've had their hardships, certainly, as have far too many pubs over the past few years. Thankfully, most of them have clawed their way out of the quagmire and made it to the other side. Sadly, some haven't been so lucky. Some have been given a new lease of life whilst others have battled on and still continue to do so. Is it a true assessment that this area is a bit hard done by and neglected more than it should be? The answer is probably yes and no. The pubs that are still here are making a go of it and some of them are doing a cracking job. What needs to be done is to encourage people to make the effort. To skirt the roadworks and make the trek up the hill. The reward is plentiful for those that do. The closed premises might be a scar and blot on the eyes but they are a stark warning of what will happen if local pubs are left to fall by the wayside. In short, the pubs I've visited on this trip are all doing their best to thrive in an area that's been left to stutter and stumble. They're worth a visit, even if you think the surroundings themselves aren't much to look at. Maybe I'll take you somewhere more picturesque next time..........

Pub of the day: The Falcon Inn. Homely, comforting and welcoming on a cold Spring day.

Beer of the day: Lincoln Green Archer was in excellent form. 

Biggest surprise: Raglan Road. More than just a stereotypical Irish pub.