If, at the start of 2024, you'd told me that I'd end up writing three separate blog entries about different parts of London, I'd quite likely have thought that you were mad or, at best, very optimistic. As it turns out, you'd have ended up being correct! In the event that I've not already mentioned it, Amy's recent promotion means that she now travels down to London for a couple of days at a time, at least once a month, but occasionally weekly. On this occasion, I was able to finally go down there and spend some time with her and keep her company for the overnight portion of her stay. On Tuesday, following a work meeting, I got the train from Nottingham down to London St. Pancras. Amy had already travelled down earlier that day. The plan was relatively straightforward. I'd be meeting Amy near her office after she'd finished for the day, we'd go for food, see a show, stay over at the hotel that Amy's work had booked for her and then, the following day, I'd do some exploring whilst Amy was in the office before we got the train back together yesterday evening (Wednesday).
Things went as smoothly as hoped, barring a slight delay outside St. Pancras whilst the train awaited a free platform to allow us to disembark. Once off the train, I needed to get the Tube to Leicester Square. The London team of Amy's department at work have recently moved offices. Previously located just outside St. Pancras station, as of this month they're now based on Charing Cross Road, just off Trafalgar Square, a mere stone's throw from the National Portrait Gallery. Essentially, they're now right in the heart of Theatreland, an area that covers several neighbouring boroughs, including Covent Garden and Soho, and forms the epicentre of London's entertainment industry. This proximity is handy, not just for our evening plans, but for what my solo day would have in store on Wednesday. As I navigated the cavernous space of St. Pancras on my way to the escalator that would convey me down to the Tube, I thought about a fact I recently learned about the station itself, that it seems poignant to repeat here. St. Pancras exists because of beer. Really?, you may ask in concerned tones, but it's true. Nearby Kings Cross was previously the main rail hub for this part of London until the upsurge in brewing in Burton and the need to get tasty ales into the pubs of London as quickly as possible. To that end, Great Midland Railway struck a deal with Bass to construct a railway station that would allow beer to be stored and transported to and across the city in no time at all, a marked improvement on the three days by boat down the Regent's Canal that was the previous method. This, in a nutshell, is the reason why trains arrive at St. Pancras on the first floor: the area underneath, now filled with shops and cafes, was previously where beer was stored prior to transportation, hence the abundance of arched shop fronts and high ceilings. An interesting tidbit that I was unaware of until now. It would by no means be the last piece of historical info that I would unearth over the next day or so.
Having found my way to the Tube, I boarded the Piccadilly line westbound for 4 stops. Reaching Leicester Square, I climbed the stairs to find my dear wife waiting for me having walked over from work to meet me. We quickly made our way to the hotel, located just a short distance from both Leicester Square and Piccadilly, checked in and headed straight back out. We'd booked a table at the local Pizza Express, which happened to be on the same road as the theatre we'd be visiting for the show later. Following a meal that was, unfortunately, mediocre at best, we headed over the road to His Majesty's Theatre. We would be seeing Phantom of the Opera, and, even better, we'd been given free tickets thanks to Amy's work! Whilst we have seen Phantom a couple of times before, it had been some time since we last saw it and it's still as amazing as ever, even more so when we realised that our seats were five rows from the front of the stage. After that incredible show, we were both suitably exhausted so it was back to the hotel for a well-earned rest. The following morning, we were up and straight out. We grabbed breakfast and enjoyed a morning stroll around the local area as the city was waking up. Seeing such a busy area as Leicester Square devoid of all its usual noise and hustle and bustle was a surreal and strange experience but a pleasant one nonetheless. After around an hour of quiet exploration around the West End, it was time for Amy to head to the office. After dropping her off, I had some time to kill but I had a plan. Being in London for a few hours would give me the perfect opportunity to explore some of the local drinking establishments. Something about London pubs grips me in a way like no others. They give me a feeling that I can't fully explain, like I'm tapping into some kind of hidden knowledge below the surface. I was fully prepared to explore in as much detail as I could, well aware that I would have to ensure that I was back at Amy's office in time to meet her so we could head back to St. Pancras for our return train.
I'd earmarked several pubs to occupy my time with. Whilst they would in no way give me a comprehensive picture of the area, they would at least allow me to delve deeper into the theatrical heartbeat of this fantastic city. In essence, I would be circumnavigating Trafalgar Square and taking in pubs that lie nearby, on the edges of both Covent Garden and Soho without a deep dive into both areas. Most of the pubs were new to me, although I had visited a small handful of them before but never for the purposes of the blog. I was confident that, by immersing myself in the pubs of Theatreland, at least in a small capacity, I would gain a greater appreciation of their significance and discern some tasty nuggets along the way. Before I could get stuck into the pubs, I had a bit of time to get my bearings. Following a stroll down Whitehall to Westminster and back, I popped into the local Waterstones for a while, where I persuaded myself not to buy another book about London pubs, a decision that I now regret. I'll be hunting said book down online when I can. Finally, the clock ticked around to 10am and I knew now that the first two pubs on my itinerary were due to be open. It was time to begin. I returned the short distance to Whitehall to properly begin my day at the Horse & Guardsman.
My next destination was only opposite. Navigating the busy London traffic, I managed to cross over at the nearby traffic lights and reach the next pub. After some sort of unscheduled delay of around 45 minutes, it finally opened and I was able to enter the Silver Cross.
This is a Greene King operated hostelry that recently benefitted from an alleged six figure refurbishment. Whilst the current layout is early 20th century, there has been a tavern on the site for much longer. The original tavern dated to 1674 and was granted a brothel keeper's licence by Charles II for 'services rendered'. Ahem. Bizarrely, this licence was never revoked and so this pub could be seen to be the only legally licensed brothel in the country, although it obviously is not in operation as such! The pub's current name appears in local historical documents in 1861. At some time after WWI, the pub sign was changed to display the Canadian Memorial Cross medal, which was first presented to the mothers of fallen Canadian soldiers and nursing sisters in 1919. This sign was replaced in the recent refurbishment. The new sign features King Charles II, with the head of a King Charles spaniel. Inside, the pub is intimate and comfortable, helped by the low ceilings. This is another split level establishment. The entrance leads to a small set of stairs, which lead up to the main room, with the bar to one side. To the rear, another set of stairs leads down to the basement level, with lots of seating and another bar. Another basement area, accessed from the main floor, can be used for functions. The toilets are also downstairs. Furniture is what you'd expect from a standard Greene King aesthetic, a mixture of comfy seating and scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. The floor does slope slightly in front of the main bar, due to the building's age and layout, so do mind how you go. I was pleasantly surprised by the interior here. Some Greene King pubs can be quite samey but the work done here has been sympathetic to the building's age and heritage. Predictably, the bar choice heavily leans towards the GK portfolio. All 5 of the available handpumps are in use, with a choice between Greene King IPA, London Glory and Abbot Ale, alongside Timothy Taylor Landlord and Hardy & Hanson's Rocking Rudolph. This time, I voted in favour of the London Glory (£2.90 for a half) and moved to a table opposite the bar. As Greene King pubs go, this one had surprised me with its ambience. Imagine my reaction when I discovered that the place is allegedly haunted! Conveniently displayed inside the main door is a board detailing alleged ghostly activity. Strange noises have been reported and pictures have been known to fall from the walls for no obvious reason. One night, a former deputy manager was locking up when she witnessed a young woman walk around the corner ahead of her. Understandably worried that she'd accidentally locked a patron in, she frantically searched the premises only to find that the pub was empty. Could this be the wraith of a young lady who once worked here in an 'entertainment' capacity? What's behind the other activity? Who she is, whether she has been seen again and whether any of this phenomena is linked remains to be determined. What can be determined though is that the Silver Cross is an historic premises that keeps a decent pint of beer. London Glory, in general, is never a standout in my eyes and the version here verified that. It was drinkable enough and not unpleasant but not anything to write home about. Well kept? Yes. Anything more than that? Not really.
Two pubs down and two very different vibes. Things were about to change again at my next location, which happened to be a couple of doors down from the Silver Cross. A late addition to the itinerary, my next stop was The Old Shades.
I hadn't known what to expect from this place at first glance but my gut told me I was about to stumble into a not-so-hidden gem. This Grade II listed building was formerly known as just 'The Shades', a name taken from a generic word for cellars. It was rebuilt in 1898 by Treadwell & Martin in the Arts & Crafts style, an architectural style that takes a lot of influence from Gothic. Inside, the bar area is long and narrow, widening into a restaurant space at the far end that operates table service. A similar wide area at the front contains some seating, with more along one side of the room, directly opposite the bar. The bar itself boasts an impressive green glazed Victorian tiled front. The most impressive feature is a gilded cupola with stained glass windows that occupies the centre of the ceiling and lights the bar area. A Young's pub since 2019, The Old Shades is certainly a unique and faintly imposing place in which to enter. The well-stocked bar towers high and the traditional brass features, including, but not limited to, mirrors and the toilet signs, allows for the feeling that you've just stepped back in time. Thankfully, the bar itself is not stuck in the past. 6 handpulls take pride of place and it was a pleasure to see that they were all occupied. My options on the day were St. Austell Proper Job, Adnams Ghost Ship, Harvey's Sussex Best, Southwark LPA, Young's London Original and Young's Winter Warmer. As tempted as I was by both the Harvey's and the Young's seasonal, I instead chose the Southwark (£3.30 for a half). I took this to a table opposite the bar, to better absorb the grandeur of my surroundings. At this stage of the day, this was the pub that had impressed me the most, with its understated opulence and nods to the past. The beer was cracking too. I have vague memories of this same beer at The Shipwrights Arms near Tower Bridge in February but, for those who maybe haven't read that entry, let me again wax lyrical about this particular beverage. LPA (London Pale Ale, 4.0%), is an easy drinking pale ale with light malt textures, tones of tropical and citrus, a subtle bitterness and a powerful aftertaste. This was a beer of the day contender and make no mistake about it! The Old Shades had definitely put itself in the running for a special mention at the climax of this blog. It's a truly remarkable place and I was suitably satisfied that I'd made it a late addition to the trip.
As tempted as I was to while away some more time at The Old Shades, there were still a lot more pubs that I needed to visit. I had a little bit more of a walk to begin the next stage of my excursion but, truth be told, it only amounted to a couple of minutes. Turning right out of The Old Shades, I headed back in the direction of Trafalgar Square. Upon reaching the square, and overlooked by Admiral Nelson on his column, I turned left and headed to a pub that sits in the shadow of Admiralty Arch, the entrance to The Mall that heads down to Buckingham Palace. Amy and I had actually been to the next pub a couple of times in the past so, on this solo endeavour, it was high past time that it featured in these pages. This is The Admiralty.
This spectacular building began life as a bank, and was built in 1871 in the Italianate style by architect F.W. Porter, but was most recently a bar specialising in Scottish food and whisky. The building was Grade II listed in 1987, when it was still a branch of NatWest. In its current guise, it is a Fuller's Ale & Pie House, which opened in October 2014, two days after Trafalgar Day. During the opening, conducted by the former First Sea Lord, Admiral Lord West of Spithead, a magnum of London Pride was ceremoniously smashed on the exterior. This is London's most central pub. The only pub on Trafalgar Square, it is only 50 metres from the statue of Charles I, from where all distances in the capital are measured. The Admiralty suffered a serious basement fire in July 2022, eventually reopening in April 2023. It is now one of the first all-electric pubs in the Fuller's estate, an attempt to prevent future fires, as well as to commendably lower the carbon footprint. Given the pub's name and location, it should come as no surprise that the pub is heavily themed after Nelson's flagship, HMS Victory. This is another split-level venue, with a large mezzanine area primarily used for dining. The ground floor features wooden tables and chairs in the centre, along with semi-private booths in the large Gundeck bar, based on the Victory's lower gundeck. Flags and other nautical memorabilia can be found throughout including a mural of the Trafalgar battle fleet on the mezzanine and a giant nautical compass on the ceiling. The bar is to one side of the room and features 8 handpulls, normally offering Fuller's beers and the occasional guest. When I walked in, 7 of these pumps were in use, with the choice of Gale's Seafarers Ale, Siren Light the Horizon, Fuller's London Pride, Fuller's ESB, Sambrook's Winter Ale, Gale's HSB and Fuller's Old Winter Ale. I couldn't resist the opportunity to try a Fuller's seasonal beer and before long I'd procured a half of Old Winter Ale (5.3%) for £3.35. I found a table a short distance away on which to enjoy my spoils. Just a note that this pub gets very busy at peak eating times so tables can be at a premium. Whilst I was able to find a table, it was booked for later that afternoon and staff do prefer it if customers that aren't eating don't sit on reserved tables with a short turnaround time. The one I was on was for a couple of hours time so it wasn't a problem. I'd somehow missed Old Winter Ale on all of the previous occasions that I've visited Fuller's pubs. Obviously it's only around in the colder months but it was a travesty that I'd managed to go so long without trying it. It's packed with aromas of cookie and liquorice and nutty, biscuity flavours. It really is a wonderful beer that's perfect for this time of year. I will always have a lot of time for Fuller's pubs. They always have a lot of character that enhances any time spent in one.
It was time now, to move on. Leaving The Admiralty in my wake (pun intended), I turned left and headed left, passing the embassies for Hungary, Brazil and Kazakhstan on my left. I reached a set of traffic lights and crossed over onto Haymarket where His Majesty's Theatre, the scene of the fantastic show the previous evening, can be found on the left, with the Theatre Royal Haymarket almost directly opposite. Crossing over, I passed the latter theatre and continued on, until I came upon Panton Street on my right. Turning into it, I immediately located my next stop. Opposite the resplendent Harold Pinter Theatre, you will find the Tom Cribb.
This single bar, corner pub was originally known as the Union Arms in tribute to the 1707 Act of Union between England and Scotland, but was rebuilt in its current form in 1878. In 1960, it was renamed after the eponymous bare knuckle boxing prize fighter, who was born in Hanham, Bristol. He was nicknamed 'The Black Diamond' and was the landlord here from 1820 until 1838, ten years before his death at the age of 66. His legacy has also had a literary impact on the pub. 'Cribb's Parlour' was mentioned in Vanity Fair and the pub was also referenced by Dickens. Now owned and operated by Shepherd Neame, the Tom Cribb underwent a refurbishment in 2023, to the tune of £800,000. Inside, it is a shrine of boxing memorabilia and old boxing photos. Anyone with a passion for pugilism will find lots to interest them here. I was here for the beer though and, thankfully, with this Shepherd Neame property, I was confident that it would not be in short supply. On the bar there are 5 handpulls and a trio of these were proferring delicious goodies. All of the available beers were from the Shepherd Neame range, and consisted of Bishop's Finger, Whitstable Bay and Late Red. With the latter being a seasonal offering, it became my choice and I parted with £3.20 for a half before retreating to a table adjacent to both the bar and one of the entrances. The layout here is relatively simple. The bar area is fairly small with the bar front and centre and seating arranged the perimeter. A restaurant area can be found on the first floor, as can the toilets. The overall decor is in keeping with the boxing theme and Shepherd Neame's inimitable style. The beer is good too, as you would expect from Britain's oldest brewery. Late Red (4.5%) is a red bitter with notes of toffee and honey. A deep sweetness gives way to a resinous note. In short, if a beer could taste like a season, this one is firmly rooted in autumnal flavours. It's always a nice opportunity to get Shepherd Neame beer on cask and I was not disappointed.
With my time at the Tom Cribb now complete, I had a touch more walking to do. The next part of my journey would take me back in the direction of where I'd begun that morning. Heading right down Oxendon Street, I turned left onto Orange Street. Following this eventually brought me along behind the National Portrait Gallery and back to Charing Cross Road. Crossing over, under the watchful gaze of Henry Irving's statue, I took a slight right and then a left onto William IV Street. For the moment bypassing a pub that I'd be returning to later, I took the next left onto Bedfordbury, where I located the Good Beer Guide 2024 listed Lemon Tree.
Located next to the stage door of the Coliseum theatre, this small pub dates back to 1737 and can be easy to miss. The name is thought to derive from the time when lemons were first introduced for sale at the nearby Covent Garden market, having first been brought to Britain sometime in the 15th century. Inside, the downstairs is one small room with the bar to the rear. Seating is primarily of the scrubbed wooden tables and chairs variety, although there are drinking shelves along the internal walls and inside the front windows, allowing drinkers to look out onto the street. There is a 'lounge' on the first floor that provides additional seating, as well as space for dining. The decor is relatively minimalist but in keeping with the pub's understated aesthetic. Toilets are at the rear of the main room. With this being one of only two Good Beer Guide listed pubs that I would visit on the day, I was expecting good things. One side of the bar is dominated by 5 handpulls, always a good start, with 4 of them in use. Here, the choices were Harvey's Sussex Best, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker, Dark Star Hophead and St. Austell Proper Job. I went for the Boltmaker (£2.90 for a half) and moved to a stool at one of the drinking shelves to better enjoy it. Boltmaker is one of the standout beers in the Timothy Taylor range and this was no exception. It was exactly as delicious as I remember it being in the past, quite the feat given how far it was from the source. I spent some time here, enjoying my beer, and cautiously watching a lorry driver try and manoeuvre into a space outside for a load-in at the nearby theatre, without clattering into the neighbouring scaffolding. The Lemon Tree was certainly worthy of my time with a warm welcome that accompanies excellent beer and comfortable surroundings.
As much as I was enjoying The Lemon Tree, my next destination was somewhere I'd been looking forward to all day, for reasons that will shortly become obvious. Retracing my steps out of The Lemon Tree, I turned right and walked the short distance to the corner of Bedfordbury and Chandos Place, where can be found The Marquis.
This small, Grade II listed, wedge-shaped pub originally opened in 1764 as the Granby's Head. It later became known as the Marquis of Granby, in honour of General John Manners who led the Grenadier Horse Guards during the Seven Years War. He offered £200 to any wounded soldier under his command who opened a tavern and named it after him. An earlier tavern on this site, known as the Hole-in-the-Wall was frequented by infamous Renaissance highwayman Claude Duvall. It was here that he was arrested before being hanged at Tyburn. The present building was rebuilt to a design by Isaac Bird in 1843. Charles Dickens was a former patron during the time when he was working to buy his family out of debtors prison. Nowadays, The Marquis is known as the music pub of Covent Garden. Live bands play regularly and the pub made national news last October when American punk band Green Day played a short set here, unbeknownst to their record label. What was supposed to be a secret gig soon wasn't when word got around, leading to hopeful punters queuing all the way to Trafalgar Square hoping to get in. In the end, the band played to a lucky crowd of around 80. It's easy to see why they chose this place. Inside, it's a music lovers paradise. Gig posters and music memorabilia adorn the walls and ceiling. Vinyl records take up considerable space behind the bar and are played on a record player during opening hours. Only Fools and Horses memorabilia is also everywhere and even shown on the TV near the entrance. The Marquis might be small in size but it's mighty in reputation. The door leads through into the narrow single room, which has snug-style spaces at either end. In between, barring a couple of high tables near the windows, it is standing room only. When I arrived here, the pub was full, a testament as much to its success as to its small floorspace. To the sound of the Rolling Stones, and shortly after Wet Leg, being spun on vinyl behind the bar, I squeezed my way through to admire the offerings available from the 4 handpulls: Signature Brew Roadie IPA, Portobello Central Line Red, St. Austell Tribute and Elgood's GSB. It took me a moment to make a decision before I went for the Roadie All-Night IPA (4.3%), the flagship beer from Signature Brew (£2.70 a half, a bargain). In the absence of a place to sit, I propped myself at the bar and let the atmosphere of the pub and the music wash over me like a welcome shower. The Marquis blew me away! I was really glad I'd stopped by. The feel of this iconic venue is unlike any other. More than that, they're got the beer to back it up. The Roadie is stunning! Citrus, grapefruit and lime combine wonderfully for a big fruity slap of a beer that's both thirst quenching and dangerously sessionable. It previously won a SIBA award for best canned pale ale and, if you ask me, the plaudits can be spread to the cask version too. What a beer! What a pub! Sometimes the stars align to deliver the perfect pub experience and I do believe I found that at The Marquis. I do feel that I could have stayed there all day long (on the chaise longue) but, alas, things don't work like that so I had to leave this fantastic place behind.
From The Marquis, I headed back in the general direction of Trafalgar Square. Upon reaching it, I took a left down Northumberland Avenue where, approximately halfway down, my next location is located. After quickly fortifying myself with some lunch, I turned my attention to a very unique pub, The Sherlock Holmes.
Opened by Whitbread in 1957, this theme pub is now owned by Greene King and showcases various artefacts and material relating to the world's most famous fictional detective, much of it rescued from the Holmes exhibition that featured as part of the 1951 Festival of Britain. Prior to this, the pub was known as the Northumberland Arms. Whilst Sherlock's fictional home on Baker Street is some distance away, this pub is located close to several locations mentioned in Arthur Conan Doyle's stories, including Scotland Yard, various hotels on Northumberland Avenue and Turkish baths frequented by Holmes and his sidekick Dr. Watson. A complete replica of Holmes and Watson's study at 221b Baker Street has been reconstructed on the first floor where there is also a Holmes themed restaurant. Downstairs is more modern with a light, airy and spacious bar room and Holmesian decorations throughout. There is real history here too, as the pub featured in the 1969 short film 'Under the Table You Must Go' which later featured in a DVD of beer-related shorts. Bare wooden flooring and a variety of seating complete the effect. This being a Greene King house, it is their beers that feature. There are 12 handpulls, in two banks of 6, spread across both sides of the central bar. Of these, 8 of these were in use on the day, offering Greene King Abbot Ale, the house Sherlock Holmes ale (rebadged Old Speckled Hen), Greene King IPA and Hardy & Hanson's Rocking Rudolph. I went for the Abbot (£2.35 a half) and stood at the end of the bar. The pub was rather busy, with it being around lunchtime and there was a jovial and convivial atmosphere. Understandably, due to its theming and its location, The Sherlock Holmes gets busy with local office workers and tourists. Luckily though, customers weren't spilling onto the street as often happens at busy times. I would say, the novelty and theming of this place is worth coming for, if not the cask beer. The Abbot wasn't the best. Not to say it was off but I've definitely had it in better quality in other places. It didn't help that I was served it in a warm glass. I used much of my time here to collect my thoughts and tune in on the conversation amongst the bar staff, which primarily focused on who was going to take in the keg delivery that had just arrived and who would open the cellar hatch. Ultimately, for whatever reason, the kegs ended up being rolled through the pub by the duty manager and a decidedly unimpressed drayman. Always keep your draymen happy folks!
Brought down to earth by the disappointing beer at the Sherlock Holmes, I had better hopes for my next location. Leaving the Sherlock Holmes, I turned left and made my way down Craven Passage towards another pub that is unlike any other. Welcome to the Ship & Shovell.
This Grade II listed, Good Beer Guide (2024) listed pub is, quite literally, a pub of two halves. Situated almost underneath Charing Cross station, the pub is divided into two buildings, facing each other across an alleyway between Villiers Street and Craven Street. Both halves were originally early Georgian terraced houses, which were then refaced and their interiors remodelled. The original pub (seen in the photo above) was threatened with demolition until it was bought by current owners Hall & Woodhouse in 1997. In 1999, the smaller pub opposite, which isn't open all the time, was added, after being converted from an antiques shop. A snug and the Crows Nest function room upstairs can be found in this smaller half. The unusual pub name comes from the name of Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell whose fleet was grounded off the Scilly Isles in 1707, resulting in the deaths of himself and 2000 of his men, a tragedy that helped inspire the admiralty to offer the Longitude Prize for an accurate nautical timepiece. His portrait hangs in the main bar. Whilst, on the surface, the pubs appear to be linked only by name and appearance, they are also linked at a subterranean level. A underground cellar tunnel runs between both sides of the building. A refurbishment in early 2017 has been sympathetic to the pub's needs. Internally, the main bar boasts an attractive wooden floor, etched mirrors, engraved glass, polished brass, wood panelling and nautical pictures, alongside discreetly placed TVs for sporting events. The bar sits at the centre of events, with seating throughout and toilets to the rear. Being owned by Hall & Woodhouse means that all of the cask beers are from their Badger range. Whilst these are rarely seen on draft, the quality is always excellent. The main bar features 8 handpulls. 6 of these were available on the day in question, offering doubles of Fursty Ferret, Badger Best and Tanglefoot. The latter of these (4.7%) was to be my drink of choice. It's a golden ale brewed with Goldings and Challenger hops to produce a good drinkability and a floral aroma. It's one of my favourites from their range and tastes as good in cask as it does in bottle. Once again, this was a pub that was quite busy during my stay so I was content to stand at the bar, after parting with £3.35, which seems to be roughly the average for this area of London, for the privilege of a half. The Ship & Shovell is a pub that I'd been desperate to visit since I first became aware of its existence so being able to tick it off is a massive result.
I had a duo of pubs left for the day and there was no time like the present. Having left the Ship & Shovell, I turned left and continued down Craven Passage and through a small shopping precinct called The Arches. Directly after leaving this, I was confronted with my penultimate pub directly ahead: the Princess of Wales.
This Nicholson's pub is named after Alexandra, wife of Edward VII, and the royal theme continues inside, with portraits and biographies of famous local residents on the walls. The ground floor bar is roughly square, with the bar to one side and seating throughout, consisting of wooden tables and chairs, alongside high tables and banquettes. The toilets are located downstairs whilst upstairs can be found the Rudyard Kipling Dining Lounge which has its own bar and entrance. This being a Nicholson's venue, and thus owned by Mitchells and Butlers, much of the beer is from their list. It's worth noting that, due to the proximity of Charing Cross train station, drinks are served in plastic glasses after 8pm in a peculiar quirk of the local licensing laws. Speaking of drinks, the bar here has 5 handpulls. At the time of my visit, three of these were available, providing a choice between Sharp's Doom Bar, Nicholson's Pale Ale and Fuller's London Pride. It seems almost blasphemous to go to London and not have a drop of Pride, so this I did for the price of £3.30 for a half. Although I did almost get charged for a pint, which would have cost £6.50. And this, ladies and gents, is one of my pet peeves. In my eyes, half a pint should be exactly half the price of a full pint. If I'm buying half of something, I should only be expected to pay half the price that the full quantity costs. Yes, not all pubs do this but certain pub chains seem insistent on pricing halves as half the price plus a bit more. Stop this please. It's annoying. Rant over. The good news is that the Pride was in great condition so I guess I can forgive the 5p difference. There are bigger things going on in the world after all.
Pride swallowed, in every sense, it was time to make my way to the final pub of the day. Heading up Villiers Street, I took a left onto Strand and then a slight right onto Duncannon Street. This then deposited me back onto Charing Cross Road. I had intended to visit the Garrick Arms as my final stop, by virtue of it being two doors down from Amy's office, next to the Garrick Theatre. However, this plan was scuppered when it turned out that they were closed until 6pm for a private function. Luckily, another pub lies a short distance away, just over the road. Amy and I had visited this one before too and now it was time for another appraisal of the Bear & Staff.
The second consecutive pub of the day to be part of the Nicholson's estate, the building that is now the Bear & Staff was first licensed in 1714. It was called the Bear & Ragged Staff until 1835 and rebuilt in 1878, in the late Victorian style. It was previously one of the smallest pubs in the area until being extended into an adjacent shop in 1997, an act that has given it two distinct areas. The pub name, along with Bear Street on which it sits, is believed to come from the insignia of the Neville family, formerly Earls of Warwick. The upstairs restaurant in the pub is dedicated to Charlie Chaplin, who is believed to have drunk here after performances at the now closed Empire Theatre in nearby Leicester Square. The interior is centred around a single bar with the majority of the seating arranged opposite this. A smaller, slightly raised area is located to one side and a staircase in one corner leads up to the restaurant and toilets. The bar includes 5 handpulls, and is almost a carbon copy of the bar in the Princess of Wales, although here all of the handpulls are in use. Alongside London Pride, Nicholson's Pale and Doom Bar, Titanic Plum Porter and Laine Doubloon are also available. The Doubloon (4.2%) immediately stood out to me. Brewed with US hops (Admiral, Cascade and Chinook), this is a floral and juicy golden ale with a big citrus kick and just the right amount of fruitiness. It's definitely a standout amongst a fairly standard beer selection.
My finishing up here occurred at exactly the same time as Amy finished work. With my expedition complete, I headed over the road to meet her so we could begin our journey home which, in itself, was not without setbacks. Due to a signal failure between Leicester and Kettering, our scheduled train from St. Pancras was delayed for an unspecified, and unclear, amount of time. Instead, we were advised to get a train from Kings Cross and change at Grantham, which thankfully went relatively smoothly, notwithstanding smug posh people getting uppity about seat reservations. Finally though, we did make it home, albeit later than planned, and both suitably knackered from the day's events.
The protracted journey home gave me time to reflect. My first solo London crawl had been a roaring success. I'd visited the pubs I'd intended to visit and even squeezed in some extra ones without too much effort. What I'd discovered was a testament to the uniqueness of London's pubs and the ubiquity of good beer and good pubs, at least amongst this area of such a vast city. And yet, as I always say with regards to London, I've nowhere near scratched the surface. Whilst the handful of venues in this entry give some idea of the variety available in the heart of London's Theatreland, there's a lot more to discover. Both Covent Garden and Soho, which overlap as part of the West End, certainly warrant more in-depth study. There are many many pubs that have so far gone overlooked. I will attempt to rectify that going forward. For now though, I can be satisfied that exploring this part of London, 'treading the boards' of pubs frequented by and, in some cases, honouring some giants of film, theatre and literature, can be seen as taking a walk in their shoes. As the Bard himself said, all the men and women are merely players. By which it can be said, we are all characters in somebody else's story. I hope that this entry has told some of the stories of London.
And so we come to the end. With Christmas fast approaching, and all of the associated chaos that that brings just around the corner, I won't be able to shoehorn another trip in before the year is out. 2024 has been eye opening. I've enjoyed some trips to places that amazed me and others that were a bit of a damp squib (in every sense). Nevertheless, we will go on into 2025. I look forward to more trips, both to new locations and to places, near and far, that are long overdue a revisit. I hope you will join me there. Until then, I wish you all an excellent festive period and a prosperous new year.
Pub of the day: The Marquis. A music and beer lover's paradise.
Beer of the day: Signature Brew - Roadie All Night IPA. Bloody delicious!
Biggest surprise: The Old Shades. A not-so-hidden Victorian gem.
