Tuesday, July 8, 2025

The Yorkshire Chronicles Part 1: Fair to Bridling

At the end of my last blog, I promised something a bit different. I'm not one who is known for reneging on promises made so something different this way comes! Over the last few days of June, and into early July, Amy and I were able to enjoy a trip away. It had been a while since we'd been properly away from home for any real length of time so we took it upon ourselves to arrange a road trip to a specific part of the UK, where we would spend a few days escaping from reality and recovering from what has been a very stressful and emotional few weeks. Without going into too much of the finer detail, it was a break that was well-earned, much-deserved and very much needed. If the title of this entry hasn't already given the game away, allow me to clarify. Our destination was to be the fair county of Yorkshire. Or, that should really be, counties plural as our itinerary would take us to the east, north and west of Yorkshire, visiting 4 very different locations, relaxing, spending some much-needed time together and generally not caring about, or thinking about, work. This did of course mean that there were many pubs in our sights. As well as being a break from the norm, the trip would provide several entries worth of blog content, allowing me to give you all an insight into the drinking scene across our 4 locations. I'll be bringing the entries to you in stages, with 5 parts in all, showcasing the pubs we visited, the beers we drank and the other activities we got up to during our time away. I hope, by the end of this series, you will feel enlightened, and perhaps feel the urge to visit some of these locations yourself. 

Without further ado, let's begin. A change of plan a few days before our scheduled departure meant we made a last minute alteration to our original itinerary. Instead of a planned day of exploring various locations around the North York Moors, we instead focused our attentions on a nearby seaside town. This would mean that we wouldn't deviate too much from our planned route and would also put us in a good position as far as our onward travel was concerned. That place was Bridlington. We'd visited the town once before, many years ago, for a wedding, but given that the majority of the marital related activity was taking place outside of the town, we hadn't had the opportunity to explore the place properly. We managed to get a last minute B&B booking, snapping up what was apparently the last available room in town, at least on booking.com. The reasons for this would become clear shortly after our arrival. Whilst it hadn't been our plan to visit the town initially, I was interested to see what it would offer, particularly given that it has several pubs listed in the Good Beer Guide (2025). With our accommodation booked and our 'out of office' on (metaphorically in my case), we loaded the car on a fine Friday morning and headed up north. The journey to Bridlington would take around 2 and a half hours. There was somewhere else we wanted to visit before we immersed ourselves in the delights of Brid though. This would mean a short diversion about 10 minutes north of the town. Bridlington is located a short drive from Flamborough Head which, as well as being a spectacular location with amazing sea views, also boasts puffin nesting sites and the occasional seal and porpoise. With the opportunity to stop off for a short visit, we couldn't resist the chance to see some wildlife that we wouldn't normally encounter in an urban setting. We arrived shortly after 11am, paid for our parking and took a wander along the cliff edge, where we did indeed witness the sight of hundreds of puffins, alongside kittiwakes and seagulls, nesting along the cliff faces. The puffins are visible from mid-April to mid-July and it was a real treat to see, and certainly hear, them. Interestingly, out of breeding season, the puffins bills are much duller than the bright colours normally associated with the species. We enjoyed a good hour watching the birds and soaking in the sea air, although we sadly didn't witness any seals or porpoises. It was soon time to head to the B&B. 

A 10 minute drive back towards the town soon saw us arriving at our destination, the Jasmine Guest House, located a short distance from the seafront. The B&B was nothing special but it would do for the night as a place to get some sleep and somewhere to break our fast in the morning before our onward journey. After checking in, and refreshing from our journey, it was time to explore this traditional seaside town. But, what is there to know about Bridlington?, I hear some of you cry, possibly from the very back. Allow me to elaborate. Bridlington (previously known as Burlington) is a seaside town and civil parish in the East Riding of Yorkshire. It is on the Holderness part (Flamborough Head to the Humber estuary) of the Yorkshire Coast by the North Sea. The town is about 28 miles (45 km) north of Hull and 34 miles (55 km) east of York. The stream called Gypsey Race flows through the town and enters the North Sea at the harbour.

The Priory Church of St Mary and associated Bayle (or gate) are Grade I listed buildings on the site of an Augustinian Priory. As a sea-fishing port, the town is known for shellfish, and is the largest lobster port in Europe, with over 300 tonnes of the crustaceans landed there each year. It has been termed the "Lobster Capital of Europe". Alongside manufacturing, retail and service firms, its main trade is summer tourism. It holds one of the UK's coastal weather stations. Archaeological evidence shows habitation of the area around the Bronze Age and Roman Britain era. The date of earliest habitation at Bridlington is unknown, but the 2.5-mile (4 km) man-made Danes Dyke at nearby Flamborough Head goes back to the Bronze Age.

A Roman road from York, now Woldgate, can be traced across the Yorkshire Wolds into the town. Roman coins have been found: two hoards in the harbour area, along with two Greek coins from the second century BC — suggesting the port was in use long before the Roman conquest of Britain.

In the fourth century AD, Count Theodosius set up signal stations on the North Yorkshire coast to warn of Saxon raids. It has been suggested that the current town was built near the site of a Roman maritime station called Gabrantovicorum. In the early second-century, Ptolemy described what was possibly Bridlington Bay in his Geography as Γαβραντουικων Ευλίμενος κόλπος "Gabrantwikone bay suitable for a harbour". No sheltered ancient harbour has been found, coastal erosion will have destroyed traces of any Roman installation near the harbour.

Another station at Flamborough Head is also believed to have had one – probably on Beacon Hill (now a gravel quarry) from where Filey, Scarborough Castle and the Whitby promontory can be seen. Another suggestion has been a line of signal stations stretching south round Bridlington Bay. A fort at Bridlington would have made a centre of operations for these. This counterpart to the northern chain would have guarded a huge accessible anchorage from barbarian piracy. Near Dukes Park are two bowl barrows known as Butt Hills, designated ancient monuments in the National Heritage List for England of Historic England. Nearby are remains of an Anglo-Saxon cemetery on a farm outside Sewerby. The several suggested origins all trace the name to the Anglo-Saxon custom of matching a personal name with a settlement type. Here the personal names advanced include Bretel, Bridla and Berhtel, attached to -ingtūn, an Old English term for a small farming community. In 1072 the area was given to Gilbert de Gant, uncle of the later king King Stephen; it was inherited by his son Walter and thereafter appears to follow the normal descent of that family.

The 1086 Domesday Book contains the earliest known reference to Bridlington being record as Bretlinton: the settlement has since been called BerlingtonBrellington and Britlington before gaining its present name in the 19th century. The Domesday Book records that Bretlinton was the Hunthow Wapentake's meeting point (the wapentake later merged with neighbouring wapentakes to form the Dickering Wapentake). The wapentake was held by Earl Morcar; it later passed to William the Conqueror by forfeiture. It also records the effect of the Harrying of the North: the annual value of the land had fallen from £32 in the time of Edward the Confessor to eight shillings (£0.40) at the time of the survey, comprising two villeins and one socman with one and a half of a carucate, the rest being waste.

Walter de Gant founded an Augustinian priory on the land in 1133, confirmed by Henry I in a charter. Several succeeding kings confirmed and extended Walter de Gant's gift: King Stephen granted an additional right to have a port, King John in 1200 gave permission for a weekly market and an annual fair, and Henry VI allowed three annual fairs, on the Nativity of Mary and the Deposition and Translation of St John of Bridlington in 1446. In 1415 Henry V visited the Priory to give thanks for victory at the Battle of Agincourt.

After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the manor of Bridlington remained with the Crown until 1624, when Charles I passed it to Sir John Ramsey, who had recently been created Earl of Holderness. In 1633, Sir George Ramsey sold the manor to 13 inhabitants of the town, on behalf of all the manor tenants. In May 1636, a deed was drawn up empowering the 13 men as Lords Feoffees or trust holders of the Manor of Bridlington.

The town began to grow in importance and size around the site of the dispersed priory. In 1643 Queen Henrietta Maria of France landed there with troops to support the Royalist cause in the English Civil War, before moving on to York, which became her headquarters. The town was originally two settlements: the Old Town about one mile (1.6 km) inland and the Quay area where the modern harbour lies. The Bridlington Piers and Harbour Act 1837 (7 Will. 4 & 1 Vict. c. cx) enabled the wooden piers to be replaced with two stone piers to the north and south. Apart from landing fish, the port was used to transport corn: the 1826 Corn Exchange can still be seen in Market Place. There used to be mills in the town for grinding it, which led to some breweries starting up locally. In the Second World War, Bridlington suffered several air raids that caused deaths and much bomb damage. The Royal Air Force had training schools in the town collectively known as RAF Bridlington, with one unit, No. 1104 Marine Craft Unit, continuing until 1980. Like most industry, these had petered out by the late 20th century.

The decline in the popularity of British seaside tourism in the 1960s reduced the number of pleasure steamers working from the harbour. By the end of the decade, just three were operating.

The story of Bridlington is very much a story of England, with peaks of success followed by troughs of decline. How has this affected the town and its pubs? Would the signs of the town's ricocheting fortunes be visible in its drinking establishments? Would we be mugged by an enormous seagull? There was only one way to find out. We didn't necessarily have much of a plan for our time in Bridlington. We decided to begin with a walk down to the seafront, seeing as we were only a few minutes away and the sea was visible at the end of the road on which we were staying. We made our way down to the sea, past several more B&Bs, all of which were displaying their lack of vacancies. Upon reaching the sea and the associated marina, we also saw that the tide was out, so we did the traditional British thing of walking along the beach. During said walk, I was filled with joy when I was able to return a tennis ball that a group were playing football with. One touch to control, another to pass it back and I didn't hurt myself. Result. We followed one British tradition up with another by treating ourselves to an ice cream. At £3 each for a classic 99, it seemed a bit steep. It was enjoyable though, not least for the fact that neither of us could remember the last time we'd had one. We retraced our steps, this time back along the promenade, with a rough plan beginning to form. I had a list of pubs that I'd hastily compiled once I'd booked the B&B. It made sense to investigate the ones in close proximity to the high street and seafront and, if we felt up to it, work our way towards the Old Town, stopping off at other pubs as we went. Reaching the end of the promenade, we took a right and headed into the town. Our first destination is located on Manor Street, overlooking a road junction. Our deep dive into Bridlington's pubs was about to begin at The Brunswick Hotel.


I had high hopes for this place. It's listed in the Good Beer Guide 2025 so, if nothing else, we would be assured of a good beverage. Things were about to get interesting. This popular hotel, known locally as the 'Brunnie' is open to non-residents. Beyond the cream exterior you will find a central entrance that leads both left and right. The public bar, to the left, features two recently refurbished rooms, opened out to allow for more space. To the right, a separate games room hosts pool tables, dartboards and TVs. The overall decor is minimalist, with good use of space. The furniture is traditional and consists primarily of wooden tables and chairs with a few longer benches. The hotel hosts karaoke several times a week, including most lunchtimes, as it was when we arrived. From previous experience, karaoke can attract a mixed clientele, which in itself is fine. What we didn't expect, upon entering, was that we would lower the average age of those present by about 30 years. Karaoke was in full swing, with the attendees mostly of an older age bracket. If this wasn't awkward enough, the route to the bar meant walking through some poor woman's performance as we had to cross between her and the TV that the lyrics were displayed upon. Thankfully, there was plenty of space at the bar, which is situated at the end of the room and serves both sides. There is a connecting corridor between both areas, where the toilets are also located. A staircase in one corner leads up to the bedrooms. The welcoming sight of handpulls on the bar lured us in. There are 8 in total, spread across both bars in 2 banks of 4, and 6 of these were in use during our visit, all offering beers from Wold Top. Our options were Night Watchman, Wold Gold and Scarborough Fair IPA, all of which were doubled up. We opted for the Wold Gold. A half for each of us totalled £4. We would soon learn that Bridlington's prices are very reasonable indeed. We clutched our halves and moved to an empty table adjacent to the bar, out of the way but looking down the room towards the karaoke. The Brunswick Hotel certainly hadn't been the introduction we'd expected. Luckily, the beer was excellent. Wold Gold (4.8%) is a blonde ale with hints of stone fruit and lightly spiced notes. It's billed as a Yorkshire twist on a wheat beer and it certainly lives up to that description. It's delicious and completely vindicates the hotel's inclusion in the Good Beer Guide. We swallowed our pride and quaffed our halves whilst trying to work out what any of the karaoke songs were. During our short stay here, we recognised one, specifically Herman's Hermits and their 1960s number one 'I'm Into Something Good'. Whether we were into something good with regards to Bridlington's pubs would remain to be seen. 

Our first stop had been something of a surprise and definitely not quite what we'd been expecting. I was hopeful that the day would improve and that the pubs would do likewise. That's not to say that there was anything innately wrong with the Brunswick Hotel. The beer was good and it was busy so clearly it's doing something right. We were only a short walk away from our next location and this one is a bit of a local legend, despite only being open for a relatively short time. Located on Marshall Avenue, we now arrived at the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed Three B's Micropub.


This is a pub whose reputation very much precedes it. Opened in 2020, two weeks before lockdown no less, this micropub is run by enthusiastic CAMRA members and has won multiple awards, including being voted Yorkshire Pub of the Year for 2024 and subsequently becoming a finalist for National Pub of the Year. This former shop premises operates over two floors, with the bar on the ground floor and an upper mezzanine level providing additional seating. The ground floor also features traditional seating, spread around the room. The bar occupies one rear corner, with the other rear corner hosting a single toilet, as well as access to upstairs. Since opening, the pub has proudly sold more than 800 real ales. It is also renowned for its cider, with 12 available at any one time, an impressive range that saw it win local Cider Pub of the Year in 2023. On the aforementioned bar, there are 4 handpulls, offering Acorn Barnsley Bitter (the only permanent beer) alongside 3 ever changing guests. At the time of our visit, these guests were North Riding US Pale, Chin Chin Yakima Sunset and Three Brothers Raspberry Ripple Ice Cream Porter. After some deliberation, aided by a taster, we both opted for the Yakima Sunset (4.2%) from Pontefract-based Chin Chin Brewery, and headed to a table against one wall. This beer turned out to be a good choice. For the pleasure of parting with £4.20 for a half each, we enjoyed a hoppy amber ale with good citrus and stone fruit notes, courtesy of the eponymous US hop. During our stay, the landlord had a chat with us about our plans for the weekend and recommended some pubs that he likes to drink in. He made an, not incorrect, assessment that some of the best pubs are often not GBG listed. Thankfully, most of his suggestions were already on the list. I'm nothing if not thorough. He also expressed his fondness for the pubs of Nottingham and said that he's visited Castle Rock pubs regularly (he's originally from Birmingham) and always enjoys them. For my part, I kept shtum and chose not to reveal my allegiances. He also made us privy to the reason why it had been so difficult to find a B&B. A northern soul weekend was taking place at Bridlington Spa during our trip. By all accounts, we'd been lucky to find anything still available. Amongst his other words of wisdom was the slightly confusing comment that he doesn't like rock music despite the radio playing a rock song when we entered (Hoobastank's 'The Reason'), and the fact that his prices are more expensive than a lot of the others in the town. At £4.20 a pint, I doubt many people are complaining. The Three B's is deserving of its reputation. The beer and welcome had been excellent. As I write this, the business is moving to a bigger premises a short walk away. It's been delayed by several months due to issues with contractors but, all being well, should be completed soon enough. I'd heartily recommend a visit. The hype is justified and you won't be disappointed. 

Before long, we were on our merry way again. Our next stop would be a location that hadn't been on the original agenda but that we'd noticed in passing. Retracing our steps slightly, we tried our luck at Bridbrewer & Taproom. 


Converted from a shop, this microbrewery and pub is sandwiched between King Street and Chapel Street, with entrances on both sides. Inside, the layout is simple. A 50L brewery kit can be found at one end of a single room. Table and chairs occupy the wall space throughout with a bar positioned at the opposite end. The bar itself is a low counter, with casks positioned behind and connected to handpulls on the bar front. All the beer served is brewed on site, and is dispensed through 4 handpulls. Upon entering, a regular gave a shout to the landlord/brewer on duty, who soon appeared and introduced us to his range. Our choices here were Savanna's Roasted Coffee, a spiced rum and coffee stout; Dougie & Daisy's Hop Along, a golden ale; Strawberry Milkshake Max, a milkshake pale; and King Street IPA, an IPA. Amy and I both opted for a half of the latter, at the cost of £3.80 for both (!). We were offered extra seating so that we could sit outside and were duly presented with a folding table and a couple of chairs, which the landlord was kind enough to set up for us. We sat outside, next to a table occupied by a couple and their lovely Labrador, Luna, who soon came over for a fuss (the dog, not the humans). This is a unique little place. There aren't as many brewpubs of this size around any more and it's a shame. You can't get more local than drinking in the same building where it was made! And what of the beer? At 4.8%, it's on the weaker side for an IPA but doesn't suffer any loss of flavour or body as a result. It's nicely balanced with a good bitterness that holds up well against the hoppier notes. In short, it's a great beer. Everything sold here is brewed on the premises and they do great deals in multipacks of bottles to take away, although we didn't partake on this occasion. The weather was growing warmer now. It had been mild all day but the temperature was starting to creep up, although the day remained overcast for now. Bidding goodbye to the last of our beers, and Luna and her parents, and avoiding the gaze of a particularly angry looking seagull, we ventured on.

It was back to the scheduled itinerary now following our brief diversion. We didn't have too far to go for our next stop. Continuing on, we made our way down Prospect Street, where the next pub soon appeared on our right. Next up, The Moon Tap.


Two brewpubs back to back wasn't our intention but that's how things played out. Newly refurbished, this is the tap for Bridlington Brewery, which can be viewed at the rear of the premises. Inside, the layout is one of several smaller areas, divided up by the creative use of internal partitions. The bar is located towards the back and over to one side, with lots of seating throughout. A door at the rear leads to a beer garden, accessible down a flight of steps. The aesthetic is one of bare floorboards, exposed brickwork, subtle lighting and lots of modern, contemporary touches. This was by far the busiest pub of the day so far. The pub was packed. Luckily, we were able to make our way to the bar easily enough. 5 handpulls are lined up on the back bar. One of these was given over to Lilley's Pina Colada cider, with the remaining 4 reserved for beer. Unsurprisingly, some of Bridlington Brewery's products were available, namely their Black Jack and Tutti Frutti. The remaining two pumps offered guest beer, in the form of Aitcheson's American IPA and Alnwick Alnwick Gold. I opted for a half of the Black Jack whilst Amy went for the same quantity of the Aitcheson's (total price £3.90) and we ventured outside in search of a table. We were lucky enough to locate one at which to enjoy our beers without being at risk of getting caught in direct sunlight. The atmosphere at The Moon was excellent. It was relaxed and jovial and everybody seemed to be having a rather good afternoon. We certainly enjoyed ourselves here. This was the best pub of the day so far, certainly enhanced by the quality of the beer. The Black Jack (4%) turned out to be a liquorice porter and it's an absolute belter. Equal parts roasted and sweet, it's very very drinkable indeed. The liquorice is subtle but rounds the whole thing out very nicely. I wasn't expecting a porter to be my favourite beer of the day so far but it had already been a day full of surprises. I couldn't help but think back to Three B's and our host's remark that the best pubs sometimes can't be found in the Good Beer Guide. The Moon isn't listed at the moment but the beer is so good that I doubt it's absence will continue for much longer. It does have the distinction of being voted Yorkshire Wolds Pub of the Year for 2025, so its excellence is clearly being noted. The surprises continued when somebody openly, and rather loudly, broke wind, reducing the other residents of the beer garden to fits of laughter. This was then amplified when a garage door nearby made a random rumbling noise which led to somebody else issuing a faux apology for the non-existent flatulence. It was all getting rather silly but in the best possible way. 

Reluctant as we were to leave the Moon, it was time to move on. Both our beers had been delicious. We were hoping the theme would continue as we journeyed to our next stop. We had a little bit more walking to do now. Our route would continue in the direction of the Old Town as we headed away from the hustle and bustle of the town centre proper and the associated seaside vibes. The sun had also well and truly emerged now and it was rather warm as we continued on. Making our way down Quay Road, almost retracing the route we'd driven into the town earlier that day, we realised that we recognised where we were. We were in the vicinity of Bridlington Town Hall, the location for the ceremony part of the wedding we had attended during our last visit to the town. A short distance from this landmark we would find our next stop, at The Telegraph. 


This Good Beer Guide 2025 pub is now a free house that was saved from closure and lovingly refurbished by the former owners. As the livery above indicates, this is a former Tetley's house that features a single roomed interior, divided up into three distinct sections. One area features a pool table and sports TVs. The main bar area features plentiful seating and there is a comfortable lounge area beyond. The bar is horseshoe-shaped and serves the two central areas. Outside is a very well appointed, walled beer garden, with a chimenea, covered smoking shelter, an abundance of comfortable furniture and lots of brewery related memorabilia on display. The bar itself features 4 handpulls. When we popped in, these were all offering beers from the paler end of the spectrum with our options as follows: Ossett White Rat, Rudgate Viking, Wensleydale Both Ends Burning and Bradfield Farmers Blonde. This was my first time encountering Wensleydale Brewery, so no prizes for guessing what I chose. Amy followed suit, with a half each costing us £3.60. The inside of the pub was pretty much standing room only so we retreated to the garden, where there was still plenty of room, and plonked ourselves down on a picnic bench. We took our time to take in the surroundings of what is a very nice beer garden, which included the obligatory topless man, now that the temperature had risen north of 20 degrees, albeit barely. The garden also houses a defibrillator, installed in tribute to a regular who died suddenly. At first glance you'd be forgiven for thinking that The Telegraph wouldn't necessarily be worth a visit but I can assure you that it is. For one thing, the beer is cracking. Both Ends Burning (4.6%) is a blonde ale, brewed with Harlequin and Cashmere hops. The end result produces flavours of lemon, lime and peach with an additional hint of marmalade. It's a perfect beer for a summer's day. Our afternoon had definitely perked up as the day had progressed. We were now halfway through our itinerary and eager to see what else we would encounter. 

The second half of our Bridlington adventure would see us immersed into the historic Old Town, which has many unique pubs, all with interesting tales to tell. Would their beer options be as interesting? We shall see. Leaving the Telegraph, we turned right and continued on. After a few minutes of walking, we arrived on St. John Street, whereupon we would find our next stop: the Old Ship Inn.


Good Beer Guide 2025 listed and Cask Marque accredited, the Old Ship is believed to have been built in 1860. Located on a main road, it occupies a prominent location on the edge of the Old Town and would serve as a good place to begin our exploration of the historic area. The internal layout consists of three rooms, with comfortable furnishings throughout. Photographs by Frank Sutcliffe, depicting Whitby in times gone by, are displayed throughout, alongside a whole host of quirky memorabilia. Brewery signs and adverts share space with jovial slogans and catchphrases. To the rear, there is a large, fully enclosed beer garden, with a designated, fully decked smoking area. The pub welcomes dogs but not children (the dream) and has built itself a sturdy reputation for its welcome and live music, as well as for its beer quality. We would be able to put one of these to the test at least. The bar is situated roughly in the middle of the three rooms and is L-shaped. A bank of 6 handpulls occupies one side and 5 of these happened to be in use during our visit. The choice here was an interesting variety of national and smaller brands, with our options being Three Brothers Emergency IPA, Butcombe Original, Theakston Quencher and two beers from Wilde Child, namely Clique Fiesta and Opulent Macrocosm. The latter of these took our eye and we went for half each (totalling £4.00). We were greeted, rather brusquely it must be said, by the landlord and, beers in hand, made our way out to the garden where we made sure to sit undercover so as to avoid the sun. The garden at the Old Ship is definitely a place where it seems almost mandatory to enjoy a good beer. And good beer is what we found! Leeds-based Wilde Child have made it a habit to give their beers preposterous, and often baffling, names but their beer is usually very good. Opulent Macrocosm (4.3%) is a case in point. Billed as a New Zealand session IPA, it's hopped with Motueka and Wakatu hops, which impart flavours of gooseberry as well as a light fruitiness. A mixed grain bill of both oats and wheat ensure a mouthfeel above what you'd expect from a beer of such a low ABV. It's certainly a punchy, fruity number and it was in great condition here. 

We were doing our best to take our time around Bridlington, particularly as we had now reached the Old Town, the more picturesque and historic side of the town. This area is a mishmash of medieval streets and later Georgian houses, adding a feeling of quaint opulence that is much at odds with the impression conveyed by the newer areas down by the seafront. We were looking forward to seeing whether the history and age of this part of town would be reflected in the remainder of the premises that we were planning to visit, and also what traces of this history had survived into the present day. Leaving the Old Ship, we immediately turned right and continued, slightly uphill, to the junction of Kirkgate and Baylegate. Our next destination was on the right hand side, adjacent to the Bayle Museum and Priory Gate. We would now be visiting the Bull & Sun.


Confession time. I suspected that the Bull & Sun would likely not serve real ale. WhatPub and other enquiries suggested as much. However, I live in hope of being proven wrong in situations like this. The Bull & Sun is a family run pub and restaurant, although it began life as a private house, dating back to the 1800s. The brick exterior gives way to two rooms situated around a J shaped bar in the centre. To the right, the bar area is furnished traditionally with added quirky touches and old photos. To the left is another, slightly larger area, used as the restaurant with tables set for dining. The overall feel is of an old school, traditional pub but with some more modern trappings. Upon entering, for one brief moment, my heart leapt with joy at the sight of a duo of handpulls. However, any faint hope I may have had that they would be providing delicious cask beer was swiftly dashed. Neither handpull was in use. Perusing the bar for alternatives didn't leave me with much. Normally in this situation, my go to alternative would be Guinness. Unluckily for me, the pub don't appear to sell that either, unless I just missed it. That left me with one option and that option would be John Smith's. I went for a pint, although I don't really know why. Amy, for her part, swapped to a soft drink and ordered a pint of Diet Coke. After parting with £6.60, which still isn't unreasonable, we decided to give the beer garden a go. It's a decent enough garden, accessed down some steps at the rear of the pub. It's a good size, with some tables, a little bit of cover, trees either side and a play area for children. We discussed our misfortune at the lack of decent beer, although the John Smith's, in and of itself, was at least passable. There had been another reason for coming here though. The Bull & Sun is allegedly haunted. Numerous incidents of strange activity have been reported down the years. The most prominent story linked to the site is that of a ghostly young girl, believed to be from the Victorian era, who is alleged to slide down a banister on the second floor. She is alleged to have died on the site and the banister in question is always suspiciously shiny, despite not being cleaned particularly frequently (which raises different questions about the place). Perhaps the unfortunate child is a member of the family that once lived here and are buried in the nearby churchyard. Other reports include sightings of a white silhouette, a male apparition seen in the corners of certain rooms, clothing being tugged, the sounds of children whispering, and objects being thrown by unseen hands or seen to mysteriously levitate. Whether all, or any of this phenomena, are linked is unclear, although at least one local ghost hunting group has investigated in person, with varying results.

Back in the mortal realm and our time at the Bull & Sun had come to an end. Leaving the pub, we turned left and continued on, where we crossed the road. We now entered High Street, the central artery of the Old Town proper, and the remaining trio of pubs can be found here or hereabouts. We would soon find that this part of Bridlington is worth a visit, not just for the pubs, but for the general ambience conveyed by its setting. The Georgian houses and surviving medieval features seem a world away from the arcades, ice cream vans and chip shops of the harbour area. A short walk further down this road would take us to our next destination, somewhere that we'd been recommended earlier as a good place for both beer and food. Next up, The Board Inn.



This Grade II listed pub has been recognised for its heritage interior. It's a haven of dark wood and is spread across several levels, all decorated in a similar. Exposed wood and bare walls are the order of the day, with photos of the town, and portraits of several individuals, found throughout. The bar is on the ground floor, with traditional wooden furniture situated opposite. The entrance is to one side of the central room. Next to the bar, a staircase leads up to further rooms beyond, with an open fireplace in the first. Subsequent floors are variations on the theme, and there has been considerable effort to maintain the aesthetic throughout. Approaching the bar when we entered, we were immediately greeted by the landlord, who took our order and advised us to explore all of the floors. His reasons for doing so will be become abundantly clear. But first, the beer! The bar at the Board has plenty of the stuff. 7 handpulls are in situ. Two of these offer cider, on this occasion those being Ty Gwyn Medium Perry and Ty Gwyn Festival Ferret. The remaining 5 hand pumps all offer beer, in a good range of styles. For our delectation and enjoyment, we had a choice between Rudgate Viking, Brains Rev James and a trip from North Riding, specifically, Toasted Marshmallow Stout, Mosaic and Citra. I went for half of the Mosaic, Amy went for a Diet Coke (£3.50 in total) and we followed our host's instructions. We were very glad that we did. The Board Inn has very much leaned into its spooky feel. The upstairs rooms have been decorated like a haunted house. One room is laid out like a seance room, with a central round table surrounded by multiple, red leather chairs. Another, on the top floor, has one long table under the eaves, with wall mounted candles and no other furniture. Its neighbour is done up like a Victorian bedchamber and comes complete with a jump scare, namely a red wigged mannequin peeking out from under the covers. To say it made us jump when we saw it doesn't quite cover it. Taxidermy birds and animal heads can be found in every room. You might be wondering why the pub has gone out of its way to decorate like this. In a nutshell, it's embracing its darker side. Strange tales are told of this place. As recently as last year, two ladies, visiting the pub for the first time, filmed a short video as they toured the rooms. Upon playing the footage back, they were understandably shaken to hear what sounded like the grumbling voice of a disgruntled old man. The same room in which the sounds were captured is also the location where the ghost of a little girl has been seen on multiple occasions. The room in question was primarily used for storage but was dressed up for Halloween last year for the first time. Previous attempts to use it for normal seating have failed due to uncomfortable feelings and cold spots felt by customers. Has the unusual decor enhanced any activity? Who knows? What is for certain is that the ownership have done a superb job at creating a atmosphere like no other. Following our fearful encounter, we returned downstairs and gave our beers a go. The Mosaic (4.3%) turned out to be a delicious pale ale showcasing that specific hop. This means blueberry and citrus flavours and a great big juice punch. It was very very tasty! Speaking of tasty, we were ready for some food by this stage. Luckily, The Board Inn happens to be well known for that as well. Specifically, they offer meat and cheese platters by way of sustenance. That sounded right up our street and, a short while later, another member of staff came to take our order. A few minutes later, our platter arrived. There's no way to describe it without using superlatives. It was enormous! Neither of us were expecting the sheer quantity of cheese, meats, crackers, and associated accoutrements that was placed before us. The quality was equally astounding. It was absolutely delicious. We were fully expecting to pay a hefty whack for a portion of food that size but, in the end it came to............£9.95. That's less than a tenner for enough cheese and meat to have started our own farmers market. Worth every penny. The Board Inn had been an excellent choice. No wonder it was recommended to us!

Suitably full of cheese and assorted meats, we pressed on. Our penultimate stop is only a few doors down and just over the road. Next on the list is another nicely atmospheric pub, The Black Lion. 



The Grade II listed Black Lion dates from the 18th century. Located at the junction of Market Street and High Street, it became the town Corn Exchange when the area became the centre of the local corn trade in the 1870s. Its other former guises include as an inland revenue office and a posting house, which was a location that offered services for travellers, including accommodation and changes of horse. The building once had stabling for 40 horses, primarily to aid with this later purpose. In the late 19th-early 20th century, the rear of the building was converted to a music hall. Features from this usage are still present, with stepped seating and pews leading down to a performance area with a small stage. In 2014, the pub was temporarily redressed and used as the Royal Oak in the film adaptation of Dad's Army. This pub turned out to be another location which would leave us pleasantly surprised. The entrance leads directly through to the bar, which curves around to one side. The top level of the pub is occupied by traditional seating, together with leather high back chairs, surrounded by exposed brickwork, bare floorboards and sash windows with velvet curtains. An original open fireplace is still extant and there are wall mounted TVs. Beyond this, the aforementioned music hall layout dominates, with regal portraits, theatre style curtains and union flags throughout. The rear section benefits from a high ceiling. As well as the numerous rows of pews between the bar and stage, there are a small number of more traditional tables on the lower level too. Conveniently, the bar has real ale. 6 handpulls are present here, with 2 being in use at the time of our visit. The options were Aitcheson's Kiwi IPA and Wold Top Angler's Reward. With Amy's previous experience of Aitcheson's being a good one, we both opted for a half of the Kiwi IPA (£3.80 in total) and chose to make our way down to the bottom section to better inspect the old music hall. This really is an interesting place. There's a strange, almost ethereal vibe to the Black Lion. The contrast between traditional pub and turn of the last century music hall is a stark one but one that still manages to blend quite well. It's easy to imagine the throngs of people that would have come in for a show a hundred or more years ago. It's completely understandable that the pub would keep it looking the same. That's not the only historic feature that remains, if you believe the stories. The Black Lion is another pub with its fair share of strange happenings. Figures have been seen sitting in the old pews when nobody is known to be in the area. Strange feelings have been reported in the same area. In the cellar, which still retains lots of original features, uneasy feelings and strange sounds have been witnessed. A lesser known story connects the pub with the spirit of an alleged Jack the Ripper suspect, who is claimed to have died on the premises after being injured at sea. Whether this unknown suspect is responsible for the other manifestations is not known at this time. What is known however, is that the Black Lion do a decent job of looking after their beer. As you'd expect from a such named beer, the Kiwi IPA (5%) is packed full of Nectaron hops, leading to a big citrus hit and flavours of grapefruit and orange. What better way to enjoy yourself than with a fruity beer, bathed in the light of decorative dragonfly lampshades, under the ceiling of an old music hall? I can't think of many.

Putting the Black Lion behind us, figuratively and literally, we turned our attention to the last pub of the day. Situated just around the corner, on Market Place, was a location that I had high hopes for. The final Good Beer Guide 2025 listing of the day, and our last stop of the evening, was the Pack Horse.


Originating from the 17th century, the Pack Horse has been restored to well beyond its former glory. An original set of stocks remain on the street outside and there is a restored brewery dray in the yard. Inside, a central bar is surrounded by three separate areas, all with a mix of seating. There is an extensive courtyard to the rear, featuring picnic benches and a pizza kitchen, housed in the old stables. Entrance to the Pack Horse is under the archway to the left, where the main entrance door can be found. The pub was bustling and very busy when we arrived, a quirk of it being Friday evening and the weather being excellent. Inside, the well stocked bar beamed in front of us, its 5 hand pumps standing proud. How would we end our day? Bridlington Brewery was formerly based here so its beers often feature, alongside guests. On the day in question, we found ourselves with the following choices: Bridlington Brewery Tutti Frutti, Milestone Sherwood, Bridlington Hazelnut Porter, Little Critters Chameleon and Timothy Taylor Knowle Spring. Having thoroughly enjoyed my last encounter with Bridlington Brewery earlier in the day, I opted for the Tutti Frutti whilst Amy chose the Chameleon from Sheffield-based Little Critters. The combined price for a half of each was £3.50. Beers successfully acquired, we headed outside where we were fortunate enough to find a spare picnic table on which to sequester ourselves. I was already thoroughly enjoying the Pack Horse. The atmosphere was superb. Both inside and outside were very busy but not overly loud and everybody seemed to be having a whale of a time. The soundtrack wasn't bad either. It seemed to consist primarily of 80s and 90s one hit wonders, as it segued between 'What's Goin' On?' by 4 Non-Blondes, Cutting Crew's 'I Died in Your Arms Tonight' and then onto 'Mmm Mmm Mmm Mmm', the 1994 smash hit by Canadian rock band Crash Test Dummies. Amy didn't recognise the song but I apparently know much more about it than I should when you consider that I was 7 years old when it came out. I also seem to know some of the words. I can tell you it peaked at number two in the UK chart, kept from the top spot by Prince (then going by a symbol) with 'The Most Beautiful Girl in the World'. But you didn't come here for a music history lesson. Back to the beer. Tutti Frutti (4%) is a pale ale that does pretty much what it says on the pump clip, and very effectively too. It's fruity and citrusy with a dry finish and a refreshing mouthfeel. It's definitely very drinkable and went down a treat! As did this pub. The Pack Horse was a perfect place to end our excursion around Bridlington's drinking establishments. The temptation to stay for longer after the last drop was strong but we were hot and tired so a retreat to the B&B seemed like a much more sensible option. 

During our half an hour stroll back to our digs, and the ensuring hours back at the B&B watching Glastonbury coverage, I mulled over the success of our day and my overall thoughts regarding Bridlington as a whole. In general, I think I'm impressed. On paper, Bridlington is the kind of place you associate with sticks of rock, sandcastles, and overpriced ice creams without giving a thought to what its pubs might be like. There's certainly something for everyone. The traditional seaside town boozers are here. The micropubs and brewpubs sit nicely amongst the souvenir shops and takeaways. The historic old town pubs are going strong. If I had to summarise, I feel that Bridlington's drinking scene can be split into two halves. The Old Town certainly has the best pubs. The history and tradition go hand in hand and it's a lovely part of the town to enjoy over a beer or two of an evening. The 'newer' side of town is better suited to its micropubs and less traditional places and it certainly has plenty of both. As much as I appreciate a good micro and how they've rejuvenated and reimagined what a pub can and should be, traditional pubs will always have my heart. In a town like Bridlington, where the glare of the funfair and the clatter of the arcades is front and centre, it's important to appreciate the places that sometimes go under appreciated. If you're after a warm welcome, delicious beer and, frankly, some ridiculously reasonable prices, you're in luck. If you go to Bridlington for nothing else, go for the pubs.


Next time: We travel to Whitby, where many excellent pubs, historic ruins and literary icons await!


Pub of the day: The Board Inn. Excellent beer, enormous cheeseboards, terrifying mannequin

Honourable mention: The Pack Horse. Cracking pub with an excellent garden

Biggest surprise: The Black Lion. Didn't expect to find a Victorian music hall at the back of a pub

Beer of the day: Bridlington Brewery, Black Jack. A bloody great porter, even on a summer's day

Tuesday, May 27, 2025

Beer Town Revisited

There are two main reasons that I have for revisiting a location that's featured previously in this blog. The first is that a significant amount of time has passed since my last visit and the venues in that location have changed, some may have closed and new ones may well have sprung up. The second reason is that I have unfinished business with a particular location. Perhaps I ran out of time on a prior visit and was unable to complete my planned itinerary and I need to return and put things right. The two reasons, of course, are not mutually exclusive and there is considerable opportunity for overlap. It was the latter reason that got me heading out for a return trip most recently, serendipitously enough, almost 3 years to the day since my inaugural visit. I would not be alone either, but more on that in a moment. It was time to reacquaint myself with Burton-upon-Trent, more often known as simply Burton and historically renowned for being the birthplace of British beer. My last visit had been a moderate success but I was left frustrated at my inability to be able to complete my aims. This time, I was determined to do this town justice. My companion on this occasion, last week as I type, was a friend of mine, Roger, henceforth known as Dog, a nickname he is known by by those that know him, although I am not at liberty to discuss the origins of said moniker. 

Those who are familiar with Burton, or at least read my last entry about it, will know that it is, in fact, not too far from Nottingham, and can be reached by train in 40 minutes. This would be the route that Dog and myself would take on the day in question. On the days prior to our visit, the weather had been glorious with mild, dry and sunny days. It was perhaps inevitable then that the day of our excursion was rather chilly and overcast, although things would improve later on. Our plan was relatively simple. Given that some of our intended targets tend to open at 4pm or later during the week, we would arrive in Burton around 1pm, meaning that the front half of our itinerary would be complete by the time the pubs in the second half had opened. The route was roughly circular and would ultimately bring us back into close proximity of the train station. As intended, we arrived in Burton shortly before 1pm. I had selected what, on paper, looked like a fairly comprehensive list of suitable venues, all but one of which were new to me. I was looking forward to uncovering more of Burton's drinking scene in the company of another like-minded friend. Upon arrival, we left the station and turned right, heading down the aptly named Station Street, which runs into the centre of town. Upon reaching the High Street, we turned right again, which took us into an area of the town that I had not been anywhere near last time. The walk in had helped us get our bearings and it wouldn't be long before we were at the first destination. We turned right at the junction with Lichfield Street, whereupon we swiftly located The Anchor Inn.


This Marston's pub dates back to the 18th century but the frontage is later, dating to the late-19th. Grade II listed, The Anchor sits proudly amongst a row of shops. The name derives from the Anchor Brewery, which was based here in the late 1800s. Inside, the layout is effectively a single room, with a central bar. The front room is a lounge bar with seating around the edge and a dance floor in a longer space behind. To the rear is a partly covered beer garden. Toilets are situated almost directly behind the bar. In terms of decor, the furnishings are simple and in keeping with the pub's aesthetic. A recent refurbishment and the introduction of new management have added additional comfort. With the Anchor being a Marston's pub, I was hopeful for the presence of real ale and I would be rewarded. A bank of 4 sits proudly on the bar. Half of these were in use, offering a single choice, that of Marston's Pedigree. A half each set us back a total of £4, and we took a seat in a corner near the window. We were informed by the lady that served us that, should we be around at 5pm, that their 'Thirsty Thursday' promotion would be on, which included 2 pints of Pedigree for £6 amongst various other tempting offers. Dog informed her that we were in fact on a crawl and would be at the other end of town by that stage but it was at least nice to be kept in the loop. As for the Pedigree, it was very good. It can sometimes be hit and miss but it was well kept here and a good start to the day, with the added bonus of being a source of refreshment after the traipse across town. The Anchor has certainly benefited from its refurbishment as a lot of the fittings look relatively new. A sign behind the bar did point out an interesting feature of the pub's licence which means that everything must be served in plastic glasses after 9pm on a Friday and Saturday. That sort of rule does make you wonder what happened to warrant it being a condition in the first place. Whilst it was quiet during our visit, you certainly get the impression that The Anchor gets lively of an evening. I also wondered whether the refurbishment has done away with the 3 ghosts said to inhabit the premises. Details are very scant except to say that there have been no recent sightings. 

We had more beer in our sights for now though. Leaving The Anchor, we turned right and continued down the road. A short distance away, on a curve in the road and situated on a junction is a very attractive building that also happens to be a pub. On now, to the Leopard Inn.


This imposing building was constructed in the mid-19th century and previously served as the racking room, and then the tap room, for the Charrington's Brewery, which stood next door. Now Grade II listed, it has an impressive facade, including 'Charrington's Fine Ales' inscribed on the roof parapet. Stone panels on the adjacent street reference 'London Stout' and 'Pale & Burton Ales', in reference to the town's illustrious brewing heritage. In more recent times, the inaugural meeting of Burton & South Derbyshire CAMRA was held here in 1975. Dog and I were both awestruck by the Leopard's fine exterior. Would its internal fixtures match up with its external majesty? The Leopard is another one-roomed establishment, this time U-shaped around a bar that is opposite the entrance. One arm of the U features a pool table and TV, whilst the other features the toilets. Furniture is simple but comfortable and takes the form of wooden tables and chairs. Our entrance here was welcomed by a gentleman in a hi-vis jacket, clearly a local labourer, nursing a pint of Guinness. He was baffled, nay marginally dumbfounded, when we both ordered halves until we explained the point of our visit and the long day we had ahead. He responded to this with a handshake. Which was nice. What did we order? Luckily, the Leopard also serves real ale. One of its pair of handpulls was providing Pedigree. I opted for a half of that whilst Dog went for a half of Guinness (total cost £4.30) and we found some comfy chairs adjacent to the bar. Beyond the impressive frontage, the interior of the Leopard befits its age and history. A lot of the original features and layout remain, although there have been some touch ups to keep the place looking decent. Other, less tangible, remnants of its history also remain, or at least used to. The disembodied sound of a rustling skirt used to be heard on a regular basis, alongside doors opening and closing of their own accord. Activity seemed to peak in the 1970s so whether it continues to this day remains to be seen. The pub is certainly not short of physical visitors though. Our hi-vis clad friend was not alone as there were other locals also present, presumably on a lunch break based on the time. It was a real delight to find real ale here. It was originally removed from sale back in 2013 but reinstated two years later to commemorate the anniversary of the local CAMRA branch. The Pedigree here compared very favourably indeed with that at The Anchor and, in my opinion, just about edged it for quality. It was poured through a sparkler at the Leopard, which added a smoother, creamier dimension to the mouthfeel. A local pub for local people maybe, but you can't knock the beer quality.

The next stop on the list was one that I'd kicked myself for missing last time and one I'd been assured would be a highlight of the day. We retraced our steps upon leaving the Leopard and made our way a short distance back up the road, to The Dog.


The first of a fair few Good Beer Guide 2025 listed pubs on the day's agenda, The Dog would turn out to be an absolute gem. The pub itself dates back to the early 19th century and was part of the Marquis of Anglesey's estate until it was sold to a private owner in 1867. In 1873 in was leased to Worthington's, who bought it outright in 1875. Worthington's later merged with Bass, Ratcliff & Gretton in 1927. For some years in the 1990s, the pub traded as an Irish theme pub called O'Neill's but remained in the hands of Bass until around 2000 when it was purchased by a private owner and reverted to its original name. Enterprise Inns acquired the property in 2005 before it was sold to Black Country Ales, the current owners in 2015. It is Black Country Ales who have made this two-storey, half-timbered building a destination pub in Burton. The reasons why are about to become clear. Internally, a large, comfortable, square-shaped room surrounds a central bar. The walls are dominated by wood panelling and the ceiling is wood framed. Framed old photographs of the town can be found on the walls and there are three real fires throughout. The clever layout allows for seating areas to the rear to be quiet and tucked away. Furniture is simple and a mix of scrubbed wood and banquette style. The beer choice is the real star here though. 14 hand pumps grace the bar. Of these, 12 were in use during our time here, with a mix of Black Country Ales and guest beers but also some real ciders. Our choices were Lymestone Foundation Stone, Weal Ales Weller Weal, Black Country BFG, Black Country Fireside (doubled up), Black Country Pig on the Wall, Beowulf F.H.P., Three Acre Skylark Stout, Gwynt y Ddraig Happy Daze, Lilley's Mango and Lilley's Bee Sting. Even before arriving at The Dog we knew two things: we'd have a tough job selecting our beers and we'd go for pints, primarily to slow ourselves down following our opening duo of quick halves. After taking a few moments to take in the options, I finally decided on Pig on the Wall (4.3%). Dog went slightly off-piste and went for a kegged red ale at the recommendation of the member of staff. We paid the not unreasonable £10 combined for our beers and made our way around the bar where we found a table directly next to the gents and opposite the dartboard. Thus far, I was most impressed with The Dog. All that was left was to see if the beer lived up to the hype. And bloody hell, didn't it just! Pig on the Wall is a chestnut brown mild, with complex flavours of light hops, a bittersweet blend of malt and undertones of chocolate and coffee. Make no mistake, this is a gorgeous beer! Mild is not my go-to style but I really feel like I need to give it more of a chance. Every time I try one, I'm blown away. This really is a stunning beverage. Seek it out. I urge you! For what it's worth, Dog's red ale was cracking too. The Dog had surpassed expectations and we were only three pubs in. And, yes, I am absolutely aware of the irony of drinking in The Dog with a man called Dog. We obviously took a few photos of him stood outside the pub with the sign clearly visible. Dog-ception if you will. 

Leaving The Dog behind was a real effort but we did at least not have far to go for pub number 4. Once again heading back in the direction of the high street, we then veered off towards the Market Place. In the shadow of the nearby church and opposite the covered market, we made our to the Olde Royal Oak.


One of the oldest pubs in Burton, the Olde Royal Oak has a chequered past but seems to now be flourishing under the current owners, who took over in March 2024. Believed to be approximately 300 years old, the rear part of the building is alleged to have been built around 1640. A now blocked off tunnel, running under the church, once connected the pub to the abbey. At one time, the pub was used as the local lockup and housed prisoners, something that has allegedly contributed to stories of hauntings, with resident entities claimed to include a priest, a witch and a former jailer. Whether these stories are true, they form a central theme of the local ghost walk which begins at the pub. The pub, as the Royal Oak, appears in a 1905 photograph alleging Worthington ownership, although the earliest surviving records are much later and have it listed as an Ind Coope house in 1983. It changed hands many times in the intervening years, most recently being owned by Star Pubs and Bars following a sale by Punch Taverns, before being acquired by the current owners. Internally, this is another one room pub, largely open plan but with some partitioning to break up the space. Seating is primarily located around the edges of the room and towards the centre, with the bar running down the left hand side. The toilets are located opposite the bar. On said bar, there are 8 handpulls, normally offering a mixture of real ales and ciders. On the day of our visit, this was certainly the case and we were faced with the choice of Ossett Voodoo, Derby Business as Usual, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Bass, Green Duck Rev Green and a trio of ciders, specifically Seacider Blueberry, Seacider Passionfruit and Lilley's Mango. A half of Business as Usual for me, half a Seacider Blueberry for Dog and a bag of mini ciders totalled £6.70. We made our way to a table in the window to reflect on our day so far and check our upcoming route. So far, the pubs had been relatively close to each other meaning that walking between each one was only taking a couple of minutes at a time. For the rest of the afternoon, the pubs would be more spread out. At least it would begin to feel like we'd earned our beers at each stop though. The Olde Royal Oak is a nice enough pub. It's certainly one of the most historic in the town and its history speaks for itself. It's good that it's been able to build a decent beer choice after so many years of being at the mercy of dreaded pubcos. My one complaint is that the beer I had, Derby's Business as Usual (4.4%), was just ok. It's a copper coloured bitter that is generally smooth and malty but I didn't detect a massive amount of flavour. I have memories of having this beer somewhere else though and formulating a similar opinion so maybe it's just one I don't get on with. 

Beers supped and no harm done, we had a walk ahead of us. The quickest route to our next destination was through an open greenspace adjacent to the church. This provided a picturesque subject for requisite photos and an excellent backdrop for our stroll. Our next location, the furthest out of all the pubs on the itinerary, is located on the other side of the river from the town centre. Burton is not exactly blessed with river crossings. Barring the main Trent Bridge that carries the main road, the only other option is the Ferry Bridge, which was several minutes in the wrong direction and wouldn't have actually made much difference to our walking time. Luckily, the weather had begun to improve. The cloud had broken and the sun had finally emerged. By the time we'd reached Trent Bridge and crossed it, we were certainly feeling the springtime heat. Having crossed the river, we turned right onto Stapenhill and continued on. A few short yards past the local cemetery, we had finally reached our next stop, at the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed Elms Inn. 


Overlooking the nearby river, the Elms started life as a private house in the 19th century, before becoming one of Burton's 'parlour pubs'. It still retains external lettering from its time under the ownership of Bass. Inside, you will find a mix of original character and more modern styles. To the front, the Victorian style has been retained in the form of a small public bar and a snug on either side of the bar, as well as small side room served through a hatch. To the rear, another lounge has been modernised with an extension and more contemporary refurbishment. The toilets can also be found in this area. Beyond, a rear garden leads up to a suntrap roof terrace. The smallish bar features, amongst its many delights, a bank of 4 handpulls. The choices facing us were Titanic Iceberg, Salopian Lemon Dream, Bass and Titanic Raspberry Pale. Dog and I both went for half the latter (£4.30 in total) and decided to make use of the outside drinking area. With the sun now beaming down, and the added bonus of a dragonfly flitting overhead, it was easy to forget that we were in the heart of urban Staffordshire and not in the middle of the countryside on a summer's day. Despite our surroundings, we picked the wrong beer for the occasion. The Raspberry Pale (4.7%) was just way too sweet. It's pink in colour and brimming with raspberry flavour making it very sweet and ever so slightly tart. If that's your sort of thing then you're very much in luck. If I'm honest, I don't know what I expected but it was a disappointment all the same. That takes nothing away from the Elms though. It's a cracking pub that's worth the walk to find. 

Yet more retracing of the steps would soon follow as we would need to make our way back over the river and into town. Conveniently, we had a stop in mind before we reached the town centre again, which would help to break up the return trek. Located on the town side of the Trent bridge is the renowned Burton Bridge Inn.


There are absolutely no points available for guessing which brewery this is the tap for. Originally built in the 17th century, the pub was bought by Bass from the Marquis of Anglesey in the 19th century, when it was known as the Fox & Goose. After around two years of closure in the late 70s-early 80s, it was bought by the founders of Burton Bridge Brewery and reopened under its current name in 1982. It is now the oldest running brewery tap in Burton and is also home to Heritage Brewing Company following its relocation from the, now sadly closed, Brewing Heritage Centre elsewhere in the town. A central bar serves two rooms. The smaller room, to the front, features wooden pews, old framed maps of Burton, awards, and plenty of brewery memorabilia. The back room is partly divided and features oak beams and panels. A function room and skittle alley, both available for hire, are upstairs. A decent sized garden can be found to the rear. It really should come as no surprise that Burton Bridge dominate amongst the 8 handpulls here. This is home turf after all! Other than the ubiquitous Bass, all the other options came from the Burton Bridge portfolio: Dark Shield, Sunshine Pale, Stairway to Heaven, Top Dog Stout, XL Mild, L of a Beer and Heritage (a collaboration with Amity). Whilst Dog went for the Top Dog Stout (obviously), I went for Dark Shield. A half of each, together with a cob (or roll) each (ham and mustard for me, cheese and onion for Dog) came to £10.25. We enjoyed our wares in the larger back room, grateful for the sustenance. The beer was ace too! Dark Shield is effectively a dark version of Worthington's famous White Shield. At 5.6%, it's dark cousin is a dark IPA. It's packed with all the bitterness and flavour you'd expect from an IPA, alongside a roasted profile and subtle hint of treacle. All-in-all, it's a very good beer indeed. The Burton Bridge was one of the casualties that fell off my list last time so to finally make it was a great feeling. It's a cracking pub!

Back into the town centre proper now. Leaving the Burton Bridge, we turned left and then left again at the next side street. This took us back down the high street from the opposite direction to before. When we once again reached Station Street, we took a right. Our next stop had been closed earlier in the day when we'd passed but, with it now past 4pm, it had now opened. The newest addition to Burton's drinking scene, at least in this part of town is Inn Uendo's.


Clumsy but hilarious name pun aside, Inn Uendo's is something a bit different. Borrowing heavily from the micropub model, this place bills itself as a 'microbar' offering something for everyone. Macro keg beers are present, alongside a pair of handpulls, on a bar at the back of a small room. The furniture is primarily square tables with a mix of high and low seating. Unlike traditional micropubs, background music is a feature. The decor is very reminiscent of seaside bars, with its risque postcards on the walls and suggestively named cocktails ('Chocolate Pussy' anyone?). And all of this in a venue that, somewhat bafflingly, used to be a funeral director's! The presence of handpumps was accompanied by real ale being available on them and this duo were offering Titanic Plum Porter and Thornbridge Jaipur. I opted for the latter whilst Dog went for Cold River Cider, with the price for a half of each equating to £4.65. It was nice to see Jaipur in these parts and very nice it was too! Whilst we enjoyed our drinks at a table near the bar, we got chatting to the owner who was very polite and friendly and gave us a warm welcome. Pleasingly, he confirmed that business was picking up since the place opened last September. He's clearly found an unexplored niche and long may he fill it. 

It was back to something slightly more traditional for our next stop and this would be the only pub to have featured in my previous Burton trip. On that occasion, I felt that my limited time here had done the venue a distinct disservice so it only seemed fair to remedy that. Continuing back down Station Street, we arrived at The Devonshire Arms.


The Devonshire Arms is a pub whose reputation very much precedes it. Grade II listed, the pub was built in 1830 as a house before conversion to a pub in the 1850s. It became an Eddie's house at some point until that brewery was taken over by Bass in 1932. It then became an Ind Coope house as a result of a 'pub swap' in 1978 and was owned by Burton Bridge from 1998 until it was sold to the current owners in February 2019. Now a free-house, the Devonshire is Good Beer Guide 2025 listed and is the current local CAMRA Pub of the Year. Returning here just had to be done. A central bar serves two areas: a smart public bar to the front and a split level lounge to the rear, which boasts more comfortable seating and an unusual curved wooden ceiling. Brewery and drinking related memorabilia can be found throughout. To the rear, is a good-sized garden with flowering plants and a covered smoking area. The beer choice is as you'd expect from a pub that has accrued so many accolades. Across 7 handpulls, we were greeted with the following: Bass, Phoenix Wobbly Bob, Marble Stout, Hopback Citra, Wye Valley HPA, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker and Gates Reservoir. On this occasion, I selected the Citra (4%) from Hopback. Dog, for his part, went for a half of Rosie's Pig Rhubarb Cider (price for both was £4.30). We decided to enjoy this excellent pub from the garden where I tried, and failed, to photograph a bee enjoying the flowers. I was annoyed with myself that I hadn't spent longer here on my previous visit. Dog was well impressed with the place as a whole. If I did one thing right on this particular trip, it was in rectifying my own prior error of judgement. The beer was expectedly excellent. I don't get to try Hopback beers much and that, in and of itself, is a travesty. Their Citra does perfect justice to its namesake hop. Big fruity flavours of grapefruit and lemon make this a properly sessionable, thirst quenching delight. 

We had two pubs left now. The next, and the penultimate one of the trip, was just around the corner and was another pub that I'd regretfully not had time to visit last time. Another Good Beer Guide 2025 listed pub, we now turned our attention to the Coopers Tavern.


This 19th century pub is primarily known for two things: its beer, and its classic, unspoilt interior. It is believed to have been built for the Bass 'brewer-in-charge' but later became a specialist malt store and then, in 1826, a store for Bass's imperial stout. It was used as a sampling room and an unofficial brewery tap until it was officially licensed in 1858. It remained as the Bass brewery tap until it was sold to Hardys & Hansons in 1991, who later leased the pub to Tynemill. In 2005, it was sold to Tuns Tavern, a precursor to Joule's Brewery which was founded in 2008 and still own the building. Entering the Coopers Tavern is like stepping back in time. A sympathetic expansion and refurbishment in 2017 has created the current layout of five interlinked rooms. A rear entrance can be found via a passage from Milton Street, through which Dog and myself entered. The front door leads through into the main lounge. Beyond this, a short corridor leads to the Tap Room at the rear where the bar counter is located. Off the lounge is the small William Bass Meeting Room, with an even smaller room, the snug located behind. A tiny new bar, with patio access, is situated between the snug and the Tap Room. The Coopers is a haven of breweriana in all manner of shapes, sizes and styles. Seating varies from traditional chairs to wooden benches, with some tables converted from barrels. The bar counter serves beer on both stillage and hand pull, largely from Joule's but guests also feature. There are even some well-known keg brands too. On the day of our visit 3 of the 4 handpulls were supplied with Joule's offerings, namely Slumbering Monk, Pale and Green Monkey. 3 guest beers were also available, all served on gravity, specifically Bass, Hopback Citra and Thornbridge Hirundo. I'm a fan of Joule's, not just for the aesthetic with which they decorate their premises but also for their beers. Slumbering Monk was an instant choice for both myself and Dog, although I must confess that I forgot to record the prices here so your guess is as good as mine. I can confirm that the beer was superb and another confirmation that coming back to Burton was an excellent idea. This place is bloody lovely. It's fantastic to see the effort and determination that has gone in to keeping such a unique pub looking how it used to look and still attracting clientele. I was blown away by the appearance and atmosphere of the place. It's easy to imagine the original Bass employees enjoying many a well earned drop after a long day, and getting to benefit from the results of their hard work. I already sensed it was going to be tough to choose a favourite pub for this trip, and there was still one left to go. 

Leaving the Coopers was tough but we had to move on to our final stop. Luckily, it's located only a short distance from the train station and is another unique venue. Crossing the bridge over the railway line, we took a right and then immediately another right to what, from the road, looks like a rather nondescript building in a courtyard. Last stop: The Weighbridge Inn.


This is now a Good Beer Guide 2025 listed micropub but it hasn't always been that way. It was formerly a coal yard office, believed to date back to the late 19th century when the nearby Midland Grain Warehouse and Grain Warehouse Yard were constructed. The warehouse is now a Travelodge. It is unknown exactly when the office closed but the building became the Middle Earth Tavern in 2015, before becoming the Weighbridge Inn when Wentwell Brewery bought the lease in 2016. Since then, it has been leased by Burton Old Cottage Brewery (2018) and Muirhouse Brewery (since July 2019). The interior comprises a J-shaped bar counter in the main room, with a smaller room located through a doorway at the far end. Fireplaces can be found in both rooms. The former control room from the original weighbridge, located across the courtyard, is now a small kitchen that offers meals cooked by the owner. A unisex toilet is opposite the main door to the bar room. On said bar, there are 4 handpulls. When we arrived, a trio of these were in use offering Muirhouse Tick Tick Boom, Rudgate Valhalla and Brunswick Railway Porter. Dog was instantly swayed by the Valhalla whilst I was drawn to the Railway Porter (4.3%). Our final halves of the day set us back a very reasonable £3.80. We sat at the end of a long bench facing the bar, enjoying our last beers of the trip. And enjoy them we did. The Railway Porter was great, packed full of malty notes and roasted bitterness. The finish was dry but not too dry. It certainly went down easily. Almost as easily as Ipswich Town, the team supported by the landlord, at least according to the shirt he was openly wearing. The Weighbridge had turned out to be an excellent last stop.

And a last stop it would be. Following the completion of our beers, we bade farewell to our hosts and made the short walk to the station for the next train home, which inevitably ended up being delayed by a few minutes for undisclosed reasons. Still. the return journey was ample time to discuss and decompress. Had Burton been worth the return trip? Unequivocally yes. There are some absolute belters out here as far as pubs go and I'm still mad at myself for missing so many of them out the first time. However, the good news is that I did eventually make it back and I'm so happy that I did. Burton has built a reputation as the place where British beer was born and it would have looked awfully silly had it not had the pubs to back it up. I enjoyed this second visit even more than the first and finally got to experience some of Burton's more legendary drinking establishments, even if said experiences were long overdue. I'd like thank Dog for his company. Based on the success of this trip and the enjoyment that was had, I suspect he'll be accompanying me on further trips in future. When and where is a matter for discussion. On that subject, I expect to be back with you in July. Amy and I have something planned which will, amongst other things, provide blog content a little bit different to normal. Until then, Burton? Completed it mate. 

Pub of the day: The Dog. It was very close between here and the Coopers but I think the Dog just has the edge.

Beer of the day: Black Country, Pig on the Wall. A superb mild if ever there was one.

Biggest surprise: The Weighbridge Inn. A cracking little micro in a quirky location.