A Motley in Crewe

Throughout all the years of pub exploration that this blog has inspired in me, I've learned that locations fall into three categories when it comes to their pub scene. There are the towns or cities that are packed to the gills with excellent pubs, with real ale everywhere you look. There are those that can be considered wastelands for the good stuff, where nary a drop of real ale has been poured in quite some time. Then, there is the third category, that of places that fall somewhere in the middle. They will have a handful of absolute belters but these will be otherwise surrounded by pubs that only serve keg beer or might have real ale very occasionally, and when it does appear it will often be generic national brands. The three different categories of location are all worth visiting for much the same reason: to get a sense of how their pubs are doing and what is on offer for the intrepid beer explorer. This most recent trip, conducted last week, would fall very much into the latter category. Accompanying me on this particular endeavour would once again be Roger, AKA Dog, and this trip would also be the first all-purpose visit to Cheshire to feature in this column, unless you count the pub at Chester Zoo. If you haven't worked it out already, then please allow me to enlighten you. The subject of our attentions would be the town of Crewe.

Crewe is a railway town and civil parish in the unitary authority of Cheshire East in Cheshire. At the 2021 census, the parish had a population of 55,318 and the built-up area had a population of 74,120.

Crewe is perhaps best known as a large railway junction and home to Crewe Works; for many years, it was a major railway engineering facility for manufacturing and overhauling locomotives, but is now much reduced in size. From 1946 until 2002, it was also the home of Rolls-Royce motor car production. The Pyms Lane factory on the west of the town now exclusively produces Bentley motor cars. Crewe is 158 miles (254 km) north-west of London, 28 miles (45 km) south of Manchester city centre and 31 miles (50 km) south-east of Liverpool city centre.

The name derives from an Old Welsh word criu, meaning 'weir' or 'crossing'. The earliest record is in the Domesday Book, where it is written as Creu. The original settlement of Crewe lies to the east of the modern town and was historically a township in the parish of Barthomley. The original settlement formally changed its name to Crewe Green in 1984 to distinguish it from the newer town to its west.

The town of Crewe owes its existence to Crewe railway station, which opened in 1837 on the Grand Junction Railway. When the route for the railway was being planned, alternative routes and locations for the main station in this area were considered; Winsford, 7 miles (11 km) to the north, had rejected an earlier proposal, as had local landowners in neighbouring Nantwich, 4 miles (6 km) away. The company then settled on the route through Crewe and the station was built in fields near Crewe Hall. The station was in the township of Crewe, but the land north-west of the station was in the neighbouring township of Monks Coppenhall, which formed part of the parish of Coppenhall.

The company built its main locomotive works to the north of Crewe railway station; a railway colony soon started developing in the area north-west of the station. In 1840, Joseph Locke, chief engineer of the Grand Junction Railway, produced plans for a new town there. The railway company built much of the early town itself in the 1840s and 1850s.  Although the nascent town was in the township of Monks Coppenhall rather than the Crewe township, it was known as Crewe from the start. The modern town of Crewe was thus named after the railway station, rather than the other way round. The population expanded rapidly to reach 40,000 by 1871. The town has a large park, Queen's Park, laid out by engineer Francis Webb; the land for which was donated by the London and North Western Railway, the successor to the GJR. It has been suggested that their motivation was to prevent the rival Great Western Railway building a station on the site, but the available evidence indicates otherwise.

Webb took a great interest in local politics and was "the most influential individual in the town". "Described just before his retirement as 'the King of Crewe', Webb came to exercise control over the working lives of over 18,000 men - one third of the total LNWR workforce. Over half these lived in Crewe, around 8,000 being employed at the locomotive works. Several recreational and sporting organisations were a direct result of Webb's influence and others received benefit from his support." These included the LNWR Cricket Club (established in 1850) and the Crewe Alexandra Athletic Club (established in 1867). However, Webb's influence allegedly also extended to intimidation of Liberal Party supporters. In September 1885, the editor of the Crewe Chronicle published charges against Webb, saying "That through the action, direct and indirect, of Tory railway officialism, the political life of Crewe is cramped and hindered beyond recognition". In November 1889, the borough council debated a motion which accused LNWR managers of working with Crewe Tories "to crush Liberalism altogether out of the town": "... by intimidation and persecution of your Liberal workmen, and by making the chances of promotion depend upon subserviency to the Tory political demands of the Management, they have created a state of political serfdom in the works." In December 1889, Liberal statesman William Ewart Gladstone wrote a letter to the Chronicle condemning the company's behaviour in the town.

The railway provided an endowment towards the building and upkeep of Christ Church. Until 1897 its vicar, non-conformist ministers and schoolteachers received concessionary passes, the school having been established in 1842. The company provided a doctor's surgery with a scheme of health insurance. A gasworks was built and the works water supply was adapted to provide drinking water and a public baths. The railway also opened a cheese market in 1854 and a clothing factory for John Compton who provided the company uniforms, while McCorquodale of Liverpool set up a printing works.

During World War II, the strategic presence of the railways and Rolls-Royce engineering works (turned over to producing aircraft engines) made Crewe a target for enemy air raids and it was in the flight path to Liverpool. The borough lost 35 civilians to these. The worst raid was on 29 August 1940 when some 50 houses were destroyed, close to the station.

Crewe crater on Mars is named after the town of Crewe. Crewe was described by author Alan Garner in his novel Red Shift as "the ultimate reality."

Crewe was mentioned in 1984 as the setting of the 19th episode The Flying Kipper, in the first series of Thomas & Friends.

The town unsuccessfully bid for city status as part of the Platinum Jubilee Civic Honours in 2022.

At first glance, Crewe doesn't appear to have had the complex history or periods of upheaval that have shaped many other locations. However, I always feel that you can never really know a place until you've scratched beneath its surface and the best way to do this is, more often than not, dive headlong into the local pubs. It was high time we did just that. Conveniently, Crewe is on a direct rail route from Nottingham, with regular trains, making it relatively easy to get to, especially in comparison to a lot of other places. The journey takes around 1 hour and 45 minutes. We embarked on the 9.15 service, which was due to reach Crewe a couple of minutes shy of 11am. Despite the relatively short travel time, it seemed to take forever, although we did arrive only a couple of minutes behind schedule. We disembarked at the far end of Crewe's expansive, but admittedly tired looking station, and set about getting our bearings.

Luckily, we didn't have far to go to find our first pub of the day. There is just such an establishment within the station itself. Making our way to platform 6, we soon located the Line & Whistle.

This open plan bar has fairly recently changed hands and been renovated. It reopened under the current name in December 2024 having previously been known as the Crewe Hero. The name is an obvious nod to its location within the station buildings. A sister pub of the same name will soon be opening at York station following refurbishment of what is currently the Duke of York. Inside the Crewe branch you will find a relatively small, open plan layout that actually merges with the Upper Crust cafe in the adjacent building. A small bar is at one end of the room. The rest of the space features furniture down both sides, towards the door, with booth style seating to one side and traditional wooden tables to the other, separated by wooden partitions. Chairs are a mix of high stools and lower upholstered chairs. The space is bright and modern, with part wooden flooring, and a mix of globe lighting and open chandeliers providing illumination. Just a note that there are no toilets within the bar. These are located a few yards further along the platform so hopefully you're not desperate when you get here. For our purposes, we were interested in what the bar had to offer. From a cask point of view, I would be disappointed. There are no handpulls in sight at this particular stop. Real ale was a feature under the previous ownership but this is sadly no longer the case. That meant that, not for the first time on the day (foreshadowing alert), that we would content ourselves with Guinness. We went for a half each which somehow totalled £7.10, likely indicative of its train station location. The Guinness turned out to be in good condition, which is always a plus. You won't find anything spectacular at the Line & Whistle. As a place for post-train refreshment or a pre-train top-up though, it could be worse. We used our brief stay to de-train and use the facilities before we cracked on with our explore.

Despite our first stop being devoid of real ale, we knew our next destination was going to deliver on that front. First, we had to get there. We left the station onto Pedley Street and then turned right onto Mill Street. We continued down this road for a few minutes, after which it became High Street. Skirting off the main road behind a couple of retail units, we emerged on the junction of Forge Street and Prince Albert Street. This happened to be an area which included several of the locations we'd be visiting later in the day but we had a different destination in mind for now. We continued up Prince Albert Street until we reached Earle Street. Our next stop was nearby. We had now reached Crewe's famous Market Hall, an indoor food market. This sits opposite Memorial Square and the local war memorial. Inside the Market Hall there is indeed a bar, and that bar is The Crewe Dog.

The market hall building itself was originally a cheese market but has subsequently been used as a general market hall. It was completed by architect Charles Meason in 1854. The exterior is of red and yellow brick, stone dressing and a roof of metal and glass. Above this is a clock tower, built in 1871, with a slate roof. Internal modifications to the market building were carried out in 2021, as part of a careful, sympathetic refurbishment. Nowadays, it boasts various food stalls and other small businesses along both sides of the room. The centre of the space is given over to communal seating and, such is the season, a Christmas tree and associated display. The Crewe Dog bar is roughly halfway down on the right hand side. It is one of three outlets operated by Salty Dog, with the other two being in Winsford and Northwich respectively. The bar layout is fairly simple. A keg wall at the back boasts 14 draught lines. The bar is L-shaped, with the small arm holding a bank of 5 handpulls. There is also a beer fridge supplying cans for drinking in or taking away. Toilets are adjacent to the bar but these are market toilets and can be used by all visitors not just people here for the beer. Speaking of the beer, the sight of hand pumps had warmed my heart. The cask choices were interesting: Merlin Merlin's Gold, Robinson's Dizzy Blonde, Little Looking for Trees, and Brew City Mild. I opted for a half of the Merlin's Gold, a beer I was unfamiliar with. Dog was in the mood for something crafty and chose Orange Chocolate Crunch, a sour beer from Vault City. A half of each set us back £5.70, a very good price! We took a seat at a high table immediately opposite the bar. The Market Hall is a cool place. You can imagine how busy it must get at weekends, particularly over the imminent Christmas period. It's also a very warm room. There seemed to be some kind of mystery heat source blasting hot air throughout the place. It was at least a good way to ensure that anyone coming in from outside wouldn't be chilly for long. I was glad we'd found this place. Pubs and bars in unique locations always appeal to me. It's not often that you find a setup like this, with a bar inside a building that's primarily used for something else. Still, it was a pleasant place to stop and the beer helped too. Merlin's Gold (3.8%) is a golden, session ale from Merlin Brewery, based in Arclid, elsewhere in Cheshire. There's a touch of sweetness from the malt and some fruit before the hops kick in. The finish is dry and lingering. It's definitely a delicious and very sessionable beer! I thoroughly enjoyed it. I was unfamiliar with this specific brewery prior to our visit but by the end of the day, we would have become very well acquainted. My first taste of real ale in Crewe had been worth the wait. Dog's sour from Vault City was also stunning. Imagine Terry's Chocolate Orange in beer form and you're about there. Finding The Crewe Dog had been a good move on our part. It's a cracking little bar with a fantastic beer selection. Dog was a bit upset that they didn't have any branded T shirts though, for obvious reasons. 

Following a fortifying few minutes at The Crewe Dog we were in an excellent mood and ready to move on. Our next few stops would all be in the immediate vicinity so not much travelling would be required for a while. Leaving the Market Hall by the rear door, we took a moment to marvel at the nearby Lyceum Theatre, built in 1911. Almost opposite this theatrical wonder is the pub that would be our next stop, the Grand Junction.

The Grand Junction is named to reflect the town's railway history. The Grand Junction Railway was the former name for the company that would eventually become London and North Western Railway. The pub itself is named for a previous pub of the same name that was demolished to make way for a new market centre. Now operated by Stonegate, the Grand Junction underwent a significant refurbishment before reopening in its current guise in July 2016. Inside, you will find an open plan layout, with a single large room divided into smaller sections. A large zig-zagged bar is to the left of the room, with a pool table at the top. Opposite the bar is a raised area of banquette seating and wooden tables. A smaller space between the bar and the entrance features high tables and stools. The toilets are adjacent to the door as you enter. The bar is very keg heavy, so much so that there are no handpulls and so real ale is not available, much to my chagrin. It would be half a Guinness each for us again here, this time coming to the much more reasonable price of £4. We were informed that we'd been charged for one full pint instead of two halves as it worked out cheaper. Why is it not the same?! Still, at least the bar lady was honest. We retreated to a high table to one side and perused both our surroundings and our Guinness. The Guinness here was decent, which almost, but not quite, made up for the lack of real ale. The Grand Junction very much gives off the vibe of a locals pub, as would several others throughout the afternoon. There was a modest crowd of regulars in, either chatting or keeping themselves to themselves, much as you'd find in any given pub in any given town at a similar time on any other Thursday afternoon. Still, we felt welcome, which is often half the battle. As long as you feel like you're wanted in a place, you're inclined to stay longer. 

In the end, we stayed until our halves were done and ventured on. We turned left out of the Grand Junction, onto Market Street and followed this until we once again reached Earle Street, where we took another left. We had effectively done a loop and were now back in the vicinity of Memorial Square and the Market Hall. On the adjacent corner is The Cheese Hall.

 

It's not often you find pubs named after a storage unit for a dairy product but The Cheese Hall is one such pub. It's name refers to the original function of the Market Hall. Over the years the pub has changed its name to The Stilton, and most recently The Three Lamps after the ornate lighting column that now stands outside, before reverting back to the current name. Located on a street corner, its unique sign, which displays a cheese knife cutting into a piece of cheese, certainly makes it easy to spot. The interior is very much open plan. The bar extends down the left hand side of the room, with tables arranged around the perimeter, accompanied by banquette seating. A space to the left of the entrance was apparently reserved for a buffet during our visit, with a tablecloth covering a table and a stack of plates at one end. A smaller, quieter, snug-type space is to the far end of the room, alongside access to a tiny outdoor area for smokers. The layout of the larger room is broken up by pillars and internal walls. Plenty of TVs can be found throughout and there is also a dartboard to one side. The pub has at least embraced the festive spirit, with plenty of Christmas decorations to be seen. The toilets are located in a corner between the bar and the snug. Speaking of the bar, there are a pair of handpulls here, which briefly gave me hope. However, closer inspection revealed the truth. One pump was blank, whilst the other held a pump clip but turned round, in the universal indication that it wasn't currently available. Still, it does at least look as if the pub stocks real ale, even if it wasn't currently fit for consumption. This meant that I once again went for half a Guinness. Dog switched things up and went for a half of Moretti, which he would soon regret. We paid £4.00 for our round. A recurring theme throughout the day, barring our first stop, would be reasonable prices. We made our way into the rear snug, away from the suspicious eyes of locals, to enjoy our drinks. My Guinness was OK. Dog was not a fan of the Moretti. A metallic tang suggested that it was probably the first pour of the line that day and that it doesn't move as quickly as some of the other lager options. Crewe was very much hit and miss thus far. Still, we were having a good afternoon. The Cheese Hall is an interesting place to look at, aside from its unusual name. It's also got a more sinister side. It is allegedly haunted. The pub backs onto the Lyceum Theatre and apparently shares a spiritual visitor with that venue. A ghostly monk seen in the theatre bar is believed to frequent the pub too. Back when it was known as the Three Lamps, a photograph taken in the cellar revealed what appeared to be a robed figure holding something across its chest. Who knows if this ghostly brother still makes his presence known in the pub's current incarnation?

Back in more earthly realms, it was time for us to relocate. Leaving The Cheese Hall, we continued straight on, heading back down Prince Albert Street, which we had traversed in the opposite direction earlier in the day. Slightly further down this road, we made our way to Albert's Corner.

This expansive building was formerly the Crewe Labour Exchange from the 1930s until it closed in the 1990s, after which it became The Waldron, before taking on its current moniker. The exterior gives the impression of a continental style bar, with green window shutters and whitewashed walls. Inside, the place is like a TARDIS. It's considerably larger even than it appears from outside. A large, long bar is directly opposite the entrance. Distinct areas throughout are marked out by changes in flooring, with tiles, bare wood and carpet all in evidence in different sections. Many of the original features have been retained, including the windows. The different sections are divided up by the use of iron pillars and wood painted walls. An eclectic mix of seating encompasses traditional scrubbed wood tables, alongside wooden chairs, high stools, banquettes and sofa style seating. Away from the open plan bar area, there is a comfortable lounge space, a games area with pool and darts, and a well-appointed beer garden to the rear. Sports TV is shown throughout. The toilets are in a corridor towards the rear. We were both impressed by the size and scale of this place. We hadn't expected it at all. What about the beer choice? Well, there are 2 handpulls here but, much like the last place, they weren't currently being utilised. It does appear that they do at least sell real ale occasionally though. I'd had my fill of Guinness for the time being so went for a half of Alpacalypse, whilst Dog went back to the black stuff on this occasion. A half for each of us came to £4.10. We took a seat at a table off to one side, which also happened to be near a plug socket for phone charging purposes and took in how big this place actually is. It's got quite a nice vibe inside, even featuring neon signs as part of the decor. Despite the beer choice, this was a pleasant surprise, although both our drinks were nice enough. 

I had high hopes for our next stop. The second half of the itinerary would turn out to be the better half, for reasons that will become abundantly clear before too long. Leaving Albert's Corner, we turned right and then right again onto a small side road. This conveyed us out onto Market Street, where we then turned left. We followed this for a few yards, where it then becomes Edleston Road. At a large crossroads, we turned right and crossed over onto Wistaston Road, where our next pair of pubs are located. We crossed over again and, after a few more minutes, our next stop appeared on our left. Our attention would now turn to the Earl of Chester.

My anticipation was palpable, even before we'd walked through the door of this place. This would be the first of three pubs on the day that are listed in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. The Earl of Chester is a rarity, in that it is one of the few remaining corner pubs in a town that once had many. It dates back to at least 1874, where it features on the Ordnance Survey. Inside, it's a two-roomed traditional pub, with the original serving hatch now replaced by a window to allow bar staff to see the door. Upon entering, a small passageway offers the option of left or right. We were all set to go right, when we noticed the landlady waving at us through the window, telling us to go left. We did as we were bidden and entered a world of wonder. The main bar area is an ode to classic rock. Posters and pennants cover almost the entirety of the wall, and some of the ceiling, opposite a central bar. A stage is at one end of the small room. Hand-made Viking shields are displayed above the bar. We were told that these were kept after being made for an historical re-enactment. The toilets are located roughly between the two sides of the pub. The landlady herself was wearing a Candlemass T-shirt. Could it be that we'd located Crewe's rock pub? It certainly seemed that way. We were greeted warmly and directed to the bar, where we would soon discover the reason for the pub's GBG inclusion. A bank of 3 sits pride of place on the bar, offering beers from Merlin Brewery. The options were between Merlin's Gold, Avalon and Excalibur. I went for the Avalon and Dog went for the Excalibur, with a half of each setting us back an astonishing £3.40. We made our way round into the second room, a much more sparsely decorated lounge, save for a dartboard and a giant flag from Stonedead Festival. Both rooms are served from the same bar but the first room certainly has more character. There is also a pool room to the rear. Whilst this place is small, we were made to feel at home, especially once we were informed that the jukebox is free. I wasted no time in putting on my favourite Black Sabbath, Iron Maiden and Judas Priest tunes. Since you asked, Electric Funeral, Hallowed Be Thy Name and Painkiller. The only thing that could have enhanced this experience was excellent beer. We were in luck here too. For my part, the Avalon was gorgeous. At 4.1%, this is a pale ale brewed with both New Zealand and Czech hops. These impart grapefruit and lemon flavours and there is also a touch of spice. The beer here was so good that we felt compelled to stay for another half. 

It was almost painful to leave the Earl of Chester. It had been the standout pub of the day so far. However, the other pubs on our agenda weren't going to visit themselves were they? Our next location lies just down the street. A few doors down from the Earl, we found The Hop Pole. 

Originally built by the railway company, what was once a two roomed pub with an historic interior has been opened out into a single room, losing much of its character and original features as a result. A central bar serves a large open plan bar room, with tiled flooring, a contemporary feel and a combination of wooden furniture and banquette seating. To the left, part of the room has been further opened out into a pool room. A larger area beyond the bar features more seating. To the rear, a large paved beer garden with picnic benches, leads out to an even larger grassed area, that was formerly a bowling green before it fell victim to social distancing regulations during the pandemic. A children's bouncy castle is also found outside, although this was deflated when we arrived. The Hop Pole boasts Crewe's largest beer garden due to the changes made. Back inside, and it was more disappointment on the bar, as none of the pub's three handpulls were in use. Instead, we contented ourselves with halves of Guinness once again, totalling £5.50, but were at least offered free mince pies. It's no real ale, but a free mince pie is a free mince pie. It's a shame that what was once clearly quite an attractive heritage pub has been modernised in such a way as to strip it of its original character and charm. It happens far too often these days. 

Despite the free festive snacks, we were getting hungry for some proper food now. A quick online check suggested that our next intended destination would be serving food. Off we trudged, happy that we'd soon have some sustenance without having to deviate from our planned route. Or so we thought. Leaving The Hop Pole, we retraced our steps up Wistaston Road to the crossroads, and this time we turned right. This took us down Edleston Road where, after a few more minutes of trekking, we would reach The Imperial.

This somewhat imposing pub was a former multi-roomed Greenall Whitley premises but has since changed hands and been refurbished. The old multi-roomed layout has been knocked through into a large open space with four distinct drinking areas. We arrived approximately 1 minute before the scheduled opening time of 3pm, to find the door already open and a member of staff playing darts with a couple of regulars. The bar is located directly opposite the door, with some seating in the space in front. A carpeted lounge area is to the right, with soft furnishings. Another, similar area is to the left of the door, with more seating directly adjacent to the main bar. The toilets are around the bar to the rear. A bank of 3 stands on the bar but, once again, my hopes were dashed. No real ale was to be had here. No food either, as I ascertained from the member of staff behind the bar, although there would be cobs available later. As we wouldn't be here later, we were forced to formulate another plan. That plan was best made over a beer though and so we parted with the princely sum of £5 for two halves of Guinness whilst we assessed our options. There didn't seem to be much by the way of food options locally, although we had passed a Turkish restaurant further up the road which we decided to investigate after we were done at The Imperial. In general, this isn't a bad place for a beer. The Guinness was well kept. The pub itself is fairly bright and cheerful. Just don't get it confused with the Wetherspoons of the same name elsewhere in the town. Now, about that food.

We retraced our route up Edleston Road and made our way over to the restaurant, which also doubles as a takeaway. They seemed surprised that we were there in the middle of the day and were even more surprised when Dog went off menu and ordered a halloumi wrap. I went for a beef sizzler that came with rice and veg and we were even given complementary chickpea soup. It was very good food, reasonably priced and it certainly filled a hole. The restaurant in general was very clean and tidy. It's a weird experience being the only people in a restaurant in the daytime but we made it work. Now suitably refuelled, we had a decision to make. Time was getting on and, even though we had open return train tickets, we had a specific train that we were intending to catch. Therefore, we probably only had time for a couple more venues. This meant trimming a couple off the list. Due primarily to distance, we had to forego the GBG listed Raven and bypass both Tom's Tap and Brewhouse, and the Rising Sun Vaults. Luckily, this meant that we'd probably saved the best two venues for our last two visits. We'd soon put that claim to the test. 

Leaving the restaurant behind, we turned left and made our way back up Edleston Road, basically completely reversing our route from earlier. At Market Street, we made a right, which took us back down the side street we'd ventured down earlier. We emerged back on Prince Albert Street, in the shadow of Christ Church, and on the doorstep of Hops.

Housed in a building that was once owned by the British Rail Property Board, Hops is a family-run, Belgian-style bar with a big reputation. It opened in 2007 and has featured in the Good Beer Guide every year since, including in the 2025 edition. Downstairs, one room is served by a corner bar. The flooring is bare wood and there are tables and chairs scattered throughout. A corridor houses the toilets. There is a front patio for much warmer weather than can be found in Crewe in mid-December. Decor throughout is heavily beer-themed, with posters, adverts, old bottles and the like scattered around and displayed on the walls. A pink elephant balloon, representing Delirium, hovers over the stairs. The pub is one of the few premises in the UK to be designated as an official Orval Ambassador and makes the most of this privilege. A fine selection of bottled beers, leaning heavily towards Belgian styles, can be found in the fridge. At least six ciders and perries are always available. We haven't even talked about the cask selection yet! 6 handpulls can be found on the bar, grouped by strength, with stronger beers on the left and weaker to the right. And what sights there were to see! The options here were Weekend Project Rockport, Mobberley Best, Shindigger Aroha, Kelham Island Pale Rider, Hepworth Thomas Hardy Vintage 2025 and Mobberley Stout. As we'd just eaten, Dog wanted something lighter so went for a gin and tonic. A double somehow only cost him £7.70. For my part, I went for a pint of the Aroha (4.2%) from Manchester's Shindigger, which cost £4.40. This is a pale ale with New Zealand hops. This means big, punchy juice notes and floral hints, with an earthy character and a dry finish. It's a very very nice beer indeed, from a brewery that I've only recently become aware of. Everything I've tried from them so far has been great, and this is no exception. We tucked ourselves into a table around a central pillar. Hops is a fantastic place. Great beer and a great place to enjoy it. Our fellow patrons were definitely enjoying the vibe as much as we were. Just when I thought this place couldn't get any better, the resident cat, Achilles, made an appearance. More cats in pubs please! Hops is an absolute standout of a venue. It's almost a micropub in size but veers towards the continental beer bar feel. The atmosphere is cosy and relaxed. It might be small but its character is huge!

We had time for one more venue and, once again, it was one that would very likely be very good indeed. Leaving Hops, we turned left and headed back in the direction of the Market Hall. We turned right across Memorial Square, crossed over at the roundabout and continued down Earle Street, crossing over the railway bridge. A few short yards beyond this would be our final stop of the day: The Borough Arms. 

The third and final pub of the trip to be featured in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, the Borough Arms is known for its excellent beer range. The pub sign is the old heraldic arms of Crewe and, once you pass under the sign and enter this place, you are in a world of beery joy. Established in 1867, the pub has been run by the current landlord for 20 years. A list of his predecessors is written on the wall in the bar. In its current form, the pub was refurbished and reopened by a former brewer, Alan Hinde, in 1999. Since then, it has gone from strength to strength. The open plan interior is divided into three distinct drinking areas. The entrance brings you through into the middle room, along one arm of the L-shaped bar. To the left, a couple of steps lead up into a narrower bar space. A third room, towards the rear, is a comfortable lounge. A large downstairs room can be used for functions and there is also access to a sheltered beer garden. The toilets are on the lower level too. The Borough Arms goes through a phenomenal amount of beer, as evidenced by the pump clips displayed all across the ceiling, detailing every beer that the pub has ever sold. The bar is stocked well for such eventualities. One arm of the bar is jammed with keg fonts, including several draught Belgian styles. The other arm offers no less than 10 handpulls. 9 of these were in use on the evening in question, with a lot to choose from. The options were Oakham Bishop's Farewell, Titanic Plum Porter, Thornbridge Jaipur, Thornbridge AM:PM, Oakham Inferno, Stewart Ka Pai, Oakham Sanctum Gold, Thornbridge Market Porter and Hawkshead Lakeland Gold. As I'm sure you can imagine, it took a moment to decide. Finally though, we had procured a pint of Ka Pai for me and a Plum Porter for Dog. Total cost £9.00. We set about enjoying our final beers of the trip in truly wonderful surroundings. And enjoy them we did. Ka Pai (5.2%) is billed as a South Pacific pale ale. This effectively means that it's packed full of Australian and New Zealand hops. It gives fruit, mango and lychee aromas with a sweet but well-balanced taste and a bitterness that lasts a while. It's a great beer from a brewery I don't see much from. I can't think of a better pub in which to have drunk it. What a place this is. It reminded us both of The Strugglers in Lincoln, and not just because of the pump clip covered ceiling. This is a proper beer haven. No nonsense but proud of what it does. And what it does it does very well indeed. This is an absolute cracker of a pub. Reputation well deserved. We'd definitely loaded the back half of the trip with heavy hitters. Before long, and with time lurching forth, we supped the last few drops and headed off. An Uber to the station and a short wait for our train later and we were heading back home. 

Crewe had been an interesting experience. It's easy to see why it wouldn't be on the radar for a lot of pub crawlers or beer tickers but it had been worth giving it a chance. Whilst there is a dearth of real ale in a lot of the town, those locations that do support and promote it do so brilliantly. Despite the relative scarcity of real ale pubs, it's still possible to have a good time in Crewe regardless. There wasn't a single pub that we didn't enjoy. They were all very different and diversity is what life is all about. Crewe may be, perhaps reasonably, overshadowed by the beer behemoths of Manchester and Liverpool, and maybe even Stockport but, as with anywhere under the radar, if you look hard enough, there is treasure to be found. This handful of pubs reflects the different sides of the coin in the modern drinking scene. Unsophisticated on the one hand, but striving to succeed on the other. Its charm may not be obvious but when you scratch the surface, you can see it for what it really is. A town that wants to be noticed. 

At the time of writing, we are 9 days away from Christmas which means this will be the last entry for 2025, purely for reasons of time, finances and logistics. However, rest assured, I will return in 2026. There are so many more locations that I warrant a visit. Several are booked or planned already, which means more new places and new pubs. There will also likely be a couple of revisits and reappraisals too, and there'll certainly be trips made in good company. Until then, I wish you all the best for the coming festivities and upcoming new year. Thanks, as ever, for continuing to indulge me by reading these entries. 

Pub of the day: The Borough Arms. Wonderful in every way.

Honourable mention: Hops. Excellent beer, cosy vibes. Bonus points for the pub cat.

Biggest surprise: Earl of Chester. Yes, it's Good Beer Guide listed but I didn't know it was a rock pub!

Beer of the day: Shindigger Aroha. Bloody gorgeous!

Shining a Light on Lichfield

Much like Lincolnshire, Staffordshire always seems to deliver. Something about that particular county seems to have a knock on effect into making its towns and cities excellent venues for a pub trip. This year's return trip to Burton, and indeed my first visit, is testament to that. So too, prior trips to both Tamworth and Uttoxeter, in 2023 and last year respectively, proved that Staffordshire's pubs are in rude health and at the heart of their communities, however that may manifest. It should come as no real surprise then that, given the rare opportunity of a Friday off work, albeit by request, that I would spend it venturing back into said county to tick off a location that may not necessarily be on most people's radar from a drinker's point of view. Said destination is more widely known for its medieval history and a famous literary connection, although all of that may be about to change once word gets out about its pubs. If the title wasn't enough of a giveaway, I am, of course, referring to the fine cathedral city of Lichfield.

Lichfield is situated 18 miles (29 km) south-east of the county town of Stafford, 9 miles (14 km) north-east of Walsall, 8 miles (13 km) north-west of Tamworth, 13 miles (21 km) south-west of Burton upon Trent and 14 miles (22.5 km) north of Birmingham. At the time of the 2021 Census, the population was 34,738 and the population of the wider Lichfield District was 106,400.

Notable for its three-spired medieval cathedral, Lichfield was the birthplace of Samuel Johnson, the writer of the first authoritative Dictionary of the English Language. The city's recorded history began when Chad of Mercia arrived to establish his bishopric in 669 AD and the settlement grew as the ecclesiastical centre of Mercia. In 2009, the Staffordshire Hoard, the largest hoard of Anglo-Saxon gold and silver metalwork, was found 4 mi (6.4 km) south-west of Lichfield.

The development of the city was consolidated in the 12th century under Roger de Clinton, who fortified the Cathedral Close and also laid out the town with the ladder-shaped street pattern that survives to this day. Lichfield's heyday was in the 18th century, when it developed into a thriving coaching city. This was a period of great intellectual activity; the city was the home of many famous people including Samuel Johnson, David Garrick, Erasmus Darwin and Anna Seward, prompting Johnson's remark that Lichfield was "a city of philosophers".

Today, the city still retains its old importance as an ecclesiastical centre, and its industrial and commercial development has been limited. The centre of the city has over 230 listed buildings (including many examples of Georgian architecture) and preserves much of its historic character.

The origin of the modern name "Lichfield" is twofold. At Wall, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) south of the current city, there was a Romano-British village, Letocetum, a Common Brittonic place-name meaning "Grey wood", "grey" perhaps referring to varieties of tree prominent in the landscape, such as ash and elm. In the post-Roman period, Letocetum developed into Old Welsh Luitcoyt.

The earliest record of the name in English is the Vita Sancti Wilfredi of around 715, describing when Chad moves from York to Lichfield in 669. "Chad was made Bishop of the Mercians immediately after his deposition; Wilfred gave him the place (locus) at Lichfield (Onlicitfelda)". The prefix "on" indicates that the place given to Chad by Wilfrid was "in Lichfield", indicating the name was understood to apply to a region rather than a specific settlement. Bede's Ecclesiastical History of the English People, completed in 731, states that Chad acquired Licidfelth as his episcopal seat (sedes episcolpalem).

These and later sources show that the name Letocetum had passed into Old English as Licid, to which was appended the Old English word feld ("open country"). This word Lyccidfeld is the origin of the word "Lichfield".

The modern day city of Lichfield and the Roman villa of Letocetum are just two miles (3 km) apart. While these names are distinct in modern usage, they had a common derivation in the Brittonic original *Letocaiton, indicating that "grey wood" referred to the region inclusive of modern-day Lichfield City and the Roman villa.

Popular etymology has it that a thousand Christians were martyred in Lichfield around AD 300 during the reign of Diocletian and that the name Lichfield actually means "field of the dead" (see lich). There is no evidence to support this legend.

The earliest evidence of settlement is Mesolithic flints discovered on the high ground of the cemetery at St Michael on Greenhill, which may indicate an early flint industry. Traces of Neolithic settlement have been discovered on the south side of the sandstone ridge occupied by Lichfield Cathedral.

2.2 mi (3.5 km) south-west of Lichfield, near the point where Icknield Street crosses Watling Street, was the site of Letocetum (the Brittonic *Lētocaiton, "Greywood"). Established in AD 50 as a Roman military fortress, it had become a civilian settlement (vicus) with a bath house and a mansio by the 2nd century. Letocetum fell into decline by the 4th century and the Romans had left by the 5th century. There have been scattered Romano-British finds in Lichfield and it is possible that a burial discovered beneath the cathedral in 1751 was Romano-British. There is no evidence of what happened to Letocetum after the Romans left; however, Lichfield may have emerged as the inhabitants of Letocetum relocated during its decline. A Cair Luit Coyd ("Fort Greywood") was listed by Nennius among the 28 cities of Britain in his Historia Brittonum, although these were largely historic remembrances of early Sub-Roman Britain.

The early history of Lichfield is obscure. The first authentic record of Lichfield occurs in Bede's history, where it is called Licidfelth and mentioned as the place where St Chad fixed the episcopal see of the Mercians in 669. The first Christian king of Mercia, Wulfhere, donated land at Lichfield for St Chad to build a monastery. It was because of this that the ecclesiastical centre of Mercia became settled as the Diocese of Lichfield, which was approximately 7 miles (11 km) northwest of the seat of the Mercian kings at Tamworth.

In July 2009, the Staffordshire Hoard, the largest collection of Anglo-Saxon gold ever found, was discovered in a field in the parish of Hammerwich, 4 mi (6.4 km) south-west of Lichfield; it was probably deposited in the 7th century.

The first cathedral was built on the present site in 700 when Bishop Hædde built a new church to house the bones of St Chad, which had become the centre of a sacred shrine to many pilgrims when he died in 672. The burial in the cathedral of the kings of Mercia, Wulfhere in 674 and Ceolred in 716, further increased the city's prestige. In 786 King Offa made the city an archbishopric with authority over all the bishops from the Humber to the River Thames; his appointee was Archbishop Hygeberht. This may have been motivated by Offa's desire to have an archbishop consecrate his son Ecgfrith as king, since it is possible Jænberht refused to perform the ceremony, which took place in 787. After King Offa's death in 796, Lichfield's power waned; in 803 the primacy was restored to Canterbury by Pope Leo III after only 16 years.

The Historia Brittonum lists the city as one of the 28 cities of Britain around AD 833.

During the 9th century, Mercia was devastated by Danish Vikings. Lichfield itself was unwalled and the cathedral was despoiled, so Bishop Peter moved the see to the fortified and wealthier Chester in 1075. At the time of the Domesday Book survey (1086), Lichfield was held by the bishop of Chester; Lichfield was listed as a small village. The lord of the manor was the Bishop of Chester until the reign of Edward VI.

In 1102 Bishop Peter's successor, Robert de Limesey, transferred the see from Chester to Coventry. The Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield had seats in both locations; work on the present Gothic cathedral at Lichfield began in 1195. (In 1837 the see of Lichfield acquired independent status, and the style 'Bishop of Lichfield' was adopted.)

In 1153 a markets charter was granted by King Stephen and, ever since, weekly markets have been held in the Market Square. Bishop Roger de Clinton was responsible for transforming the scattered settlements to the south of Minster Pool into the ladder-plan streets existing today. Market Street, Wade Street, Bore Street and Frog Lane linked Dam Street, Conduit Street and Bakers Lane on one side with Bird Street and St John Street on the other. Bishop de Clinton also fortified the cathedral close and enclosed the town with a bank and ditch, and gates were set up where roads into the town crossed the ditch. In 1291 Lichfield was severely damaged by a fire which destroyed most of the town; however the Cathedral and Close survived unscathed.

In 1387 Richard II gave a charter for the foundation of the guild of St Mary and St John the Baptist; this guild functioned as the local government, until its dissolution by Edward VI, who incorporated the town in 1548.

The policies of Henry VIII had a dramatic effect on Lichfield. The Reformation brought the disappearance of pilgrim traffic following the destruction of St Chad's shrine in 1538, which was a major loss to the city's economic prosperity. That year too the Franciscan Friary was dissolved, the site becoming a private estate. Further economic decline followed the outbreak of plague in 1593, which resulted in the death of over a third of the entire population.

Three people were burned at the stake for heresy under Mary I. The last public burning at the stake for heresy in England took place in Lichfield, when Edward Wightman from Burton upon Trent was executed by burning in the Market Place on 11 April 1612 for promoting himself as the divine Paraclete and Saviour of the world.

In the English Civil War, Lichfield was divided. The cathedral authorities, supported by some of the townsfolk, were for the king, but the townsfolk generally sided with the Parliament. This led to the fortification of the close in 1643. Lichfield's position as a focus of supply routes had an important strategic significance during the war, and both forces were anxious for control of the city. The Parliamentary commander Lord Brooke led an assault on the fortified close, but was killed by a sniper's bullet on St Chad's day in 1643. The close subsequently yielded to the Parliamentarians, but was retaken by Prince Rupert of the Rhine in the same year, and the governorship granted to a local gentleman, Richard Bagot. On the collapse of the Royalist cause in 1646 it again surrendered. The cathedral suffered extensive damage from the war, including the complete destruction of the central spire. It was restored at the Restoration under the supervision of Bishop Hacket, and thanks in part to the generosity of King Charles II.

Lichfield started to develop a lively coaching trade as a stop-off on the busy route between London and Chester from the 1650s onwards, making it Staffordshire's most prosperous town. In the 18th century, and then reaching its peak in the period from 1800 to 1840, the city thrived as a busy coaching city on the main routes from London to the north-west and Birmingham to the north-east. It also became a centre of great intellectual activity, being the home of many famous people including Samuel Johnson, David Garrick, Erasmus Darwin and Anna Seward; this prompted Johnson's remark that Lichfield was "a city of philosophers". In the 1720s Daniel Defoe described Lichfield as 'a fine, neat, well-built, and indifferent large city', the principal town in the region after Chester. During the late 18th and early 19th century much of the medieval city was rebuilt with the red-brick Georgian style buildings still to be seen today. Also during this time, the city's infrastructure underwent great improvements, with underground sewerage systems, paved streets and gas-powered street lighting. An infantry regiment of the British Army was formed at Lichfield in 1705 by Col. Luke Lillingstone in the King's Head tavern in Bird Street. In 1751 it became the 38th Regiment of Foot, and in 1783 the 1st Staffordshire Regiment; after reorganisation in 1881 it became the 1st battalion of the South Staffordshire Regiment.

The arrival of the Industrial Revolution and the railways in 1837 signalled the end of Lichfield's position as an important staging post for coaching traffic. While nearby Birmingham (and its population) expanded greatly during the Industrial Revolution, Lichfield remained largely unchanged in character.

The first council houses were built in the Dimbles area of the city in the 1930s. The outbreak of World War II brought over 2,000 evacuees from industrialised areas. However, due to the lack of heavy industry in the city, Lichfield escaped lightly, although there were air raids in 1940 and 1941 and three Lichfeldians were killed. Just outside the city, Wellington Bombers flew out of Fradley Aerodrome, which was known as RAF Lichfield. After the war the council built many new houses in the 1960s, including some high-rise flats, while the late 1970s and early 1980s saw the construction of a large housing estate at Boley Park in the south-east of the city. The city's population tripled between 1951 and the late 1980s.

The city has continued expanding to the west. The Darwin Park housing estate has been under development for a number of years and has swelled the city's population by approximately 3,000. Plans were approved for Friarsgate, a new £100 million shopping and leisure complex opposite Lichfield City Station. The police station, bus station, Ford garage and multi-storey car park were to be demolished to make way for 22,000 m² of retail space and 2,000 m² of leisure facilities, consisting of a flagship department store, six-screen cinema, hotel, 37 individual shops and 56 flats. These plans have not gone ahead and new plans have been made for a cinema in the abandoned Debenhams building.

As can be seen from the above, Lichfield has seen its fair share of turmoil throughout its long history. As ever, I was looking forward to seeing whether this upheaval would be reflected in the city's many drinking establishments. But first, to get there. Despite its relative proximity, Lichfield cannot be reached directly from Nottingham and so I would be changing trains at Tamworth. Lichfield boasts two railway stations, Lichfield City, right in the centre, and Lichfield Trent Valley, on the outskirts, where my train would eventually deposit me. For the purposes of my visit, this would work out quite nicely. The itinerary I had put together would involve one pub close to the station before turning its attentions to the city centre proper, where the vast majority of the stops would be clustered, lots of them in close proximity to each other. This would give me a fair representation of the city's drinking scene and make getting around relatively straightforward. Foreshadowing alert: I hadn't quite banked on the logistical issues that come with travelling on Black Friday, the day we seem to have adopted from the US that immediately follows Thanksgiving, and sees hundreds of high street brands offering 'deals' on various products, leading to a marked increase in shoppers as people hunt for 'bargains'. This meant that any trains in the vicinity of, or en route to, Birmingham, were much busier than normal. It was also pay weekend, which tends to bring more people out anyway, especially when it's the last such weekend before Christmas. Having arrived at Tamworth with no issues, my subsequent train was delayed by a few minutes. However, once it did arrive, a short journey (6 whole minutes) would elapse and I finally stepped off the train at Lichfield Trent Valley station. It was time to immerse myself into this fine city and reacquaint myself with Staffordshire. I had high hopes as to what to expect. Without further faffing about, at least for now, it was time to get stuck in.

Leaving the station platform, I turned right and exited through the adjacent car park. The road climbed slightly uphill and, at the end, I turned right, which took me over a railway bridge and into the suburb of Streethay where a new housing development and associated retail units are located. One of these units would be my first stop. The newest edition to Lichfield's pub scene is bod. 

This new-build cafe bar is visible from several yards up the road, which was one indication that I was at least going in the right direction. It helped that it stood out so clearly under the bright blue mid-morning sky, although the weather would be decidedly more unsettled as the day wore on. The Lichfield branch of bod is part of Titanic Brewery's growing chain of cafe bars, which boded very well indeed. I last encountered a member of this particular chain out in Matlock a couple of years ago and had a wonderful time, so hopes were indeed at their highest. The bar sits opposite a local, very modern looking, branch of Co-Op and has it's own parking outside, as well as outside benches for seating. Inside, it's a very modern, contemporary style. Large windows bring in lots of light to the spacious interior, with its high ceiling and factory-style aesthetic. The furniture is mostly wooden tables and upholstered benches, although there is a high table in the centre of the room with stools around it. The lighting is subtle, with fixtures made from repurposed keg tops. The floor is tiled. The bar sits at the end of the room, festooned with hop flowers. To the right of this, is the cafe counter. Both units are made of reclaimed wood. In general, the feel is light and airy. A mezzanine level provides additional seating. Toilets are reached down stairs to the rear. Resplendent on the bar are 6 handpulls. Given the bar's ownership, it's no surprise to see that these are primarily sporting the products of Titanic, with one given over to cider. A well-stocked keg wall is on the back bar, offering some of their keg products, alongside some guests. It's worth noting that, whilst the venue opens at 8.30am, alcohol is not served until 11am. Pleasingly, I'd arrived around 11.30, so no restrictions for me on that front! My first task was deciding which beer to begin my day with. My options were all from Titanic, namely Steerage, Iceberg, Plum Porter, First Class and Cherry Porter Grand Reserve. The 6th pump was providing Pulp Caramelised Apple cider which, in hindsight, sounds terrible. A moment's perusal, and a short wait to get served, later and I had purchased half a pint of Iceberg (£2.35) and made my way to the aforementioned high table to better take in my environment. Titanic have done a cracking job! So much so that the pub is the proud recipient of a CAMRA Pub Design Award in the new build category. It's Titanic's first purpose built venue and opened in 2023. Well done to all involved as it's a fantastic place for a beer, particularly to begin the day, and especially when the beer is as well kept as the Iceberg was here. Titanic probably don't get enough credit for the quality of their beer. Based on this, pub design is certainly another string to their bow. 

With my first, delicious half of the day supped, it was onwards for more. Leaving bod, I retraced my steps, heading back in the direction of the station. This time I continued past the entrance and headed onto Trent Valley Road, which heads directly towards the city centre. The walk itself would take just shy of half an hour. I don't mind walking, especially when I'm exploring new places and there's a pub or ten waiting for me at the end of it. On my way, I passed the Samuel Johnson Hospital, and the historic St. Michael's Church. By now, the road had climbed uphill again and become Church Street. I continued on until, eventually, Church Street branched off onto Greenhill and I had reached my destination, on the right. I was now at the Duke of York. 

This Grade II listed building is believed to be the oldest inn in Lichfield, but not the oldest pub (more on which later), and sits just on the edge of the city centre. Behind the simple frontage is a superb, well-maintained interior, with exposed wooden beams, all original, throughout. The layout is multi-roomed. A large split-level bar area is to the front with a comfortable, roomy lounge behind. A side room, known as the Courtyard, is adjacent to both of these, reached via a corridor, where the toilets can also be found. There is also a paved beer terrace to the rear. The Duke of York is owned and operated by Joule's Brewery, meaning it's decorated throughout in their unique style, with upholstered seating, bare wood floors, soft lighting and fairly minimalist decor, barring the Joule's signage on internal doors and the mirror in the lounge. There are also various Christmas decorations displayed throughout, as there would be in all the venues throughout the day. Even bod had fairy lights festooned across multiple beams and above the bar. Back to the Duke of York though. The wind had picked up on my way here and I was followed into the building by a small swathe of leaves, which lent a Gothic air to proceedings and was remarked upon by a member of bar staff as she greeted me. I do like to make an appropriate entrance. This being a Joule's venue, their products are, expectedly, front and centre, spread across two banks of handpulls, totalling 9 overall. The majority are doubled up, with two each of Pale, Slumbering Monk, Blonde and Belgian Fruit Ale. One hand pump offered Moon Madness, which sounded intriguing but would wait until later (spoiler alert). Instead, I decided to try the Belgian Fruit Ale (4%). A half of this cost £2.20. I retreated into the cosy lounge and sat on a pew at a wooden table. There was only one other customer in the room with me, who seemed content with his lager, and so I used the time to observe my surroundings and investigate my beer. I do enjoy a Joule's pub. Their style is unique and their pubs are always welcoming. Their beer tends to be decent too. On this occasion, I had opted for a limited edition brew. Technically known as Batch 1034, the Belgian Fruit Ale is pretty much exactly what it sounds like. It's a Belgian style pale ale, brewed with Saison yeast and 300kg of sour cherries. The end effect is tart, clovey and slightly spicy, with a pronounced pink tinge. It's pretty tasty, although I think I'd struggle to cope with more than a half at a time. Despite that, it went down very well. The wall-mounted hog's head above me, adorned with a Christmas hat and tinsel, almost seemed to smile down approvingly. I approved of the Duke of York and its beer. Casting a glance behind me at the musicians rehearsing in the Courtyard room, I headed back out into the windswept afternoon. 

Turning right out of the door, I headed onwards. Greenhill runs on and joins Tamworth Street, which runs into the heart of the shopping district. Several of my next stops are located here, with a few of them being very close to each other. Ignoring one of them for now, as it wasn't yet open, I instead focused on my next intended stop, Beerbohm.

Listed in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, Beerbohm is a cafe bar with a distinct hint of Belgian style about it. Inside, there are two floors. The ground floor features the bar to one side, with banquette seating and wooden tables and chairs. The decor is decidedly quirky, with photos, paintings, and framed drawings displayed on the walls, along with mirrors and antique clocks. Globular chandeliers beam down from the bar ceiling. The style is continued upstairs, in a smaller lounge room, which features a large, central table, further comfy seating and windows that look out onto the street below. A bookcase in one corner hosts several Readers Digest volumes, alongside more academic texts, such as a collection of caricatures from namesake essayist and parodist Max Beerbohm, whose brother, Herbert Beerbohm Tree, became a noted actor and theatre manager in London. The toilets are gender neutral and are located halfway up the stairs, down a small side passage. I can't help but feel a similar vibe to York's Lendal branch of House of Trembling Madness, which is itself heavily influenced by the Belgian bar style. On the bar downstairs, you will find 4 handpulls which, at the time of my visit were offering an interesting mix, namely Goff's Lancer, Milton Justinian, Lincoln Green Marion, and Textile, a collaboration between Castle Rock and RedWillow. On this occasion, I opted for something lighter and went for the Lancer (3.8%), from Cheltenham's Goff's Brewery. A half of this totalled £2.30 and I was lucky enough to find a spare armchair in the upstairs room in which to enjoy it. This place made an impression on me. It's a delightful, unique place to spend some time. If you like feeling like you're in Belgium with a beer when instead you're overlooking a Staffordshire high street, but still have beer, then you're in luck. This is exactly the place for you! They keep a cracking beer here too. Lancer is a golden session ale. It's brewed with Cascade hops, which means you get big zesty notes and a pleasing, light, citrus aroma. Three pubs in and Lichfield was proving its worth. More was to come.

I didn't have far to go at all now. The next two locations are immediately opposite, either side of the local branch of a certain budget pub chain. The first of these, is The Beacon. 

I hadn't realised it  when I was putting the itinerary for this trip together but this would turn out to be my second visit to a Titanic Brewery pub on the same day. The pub was formerly known as The Pig but was taken over and refurbished by Titanic towards the end of 2024. The new name reflects nearby Beacon Park, which is home to a statue of Stoke-born Edward Smith, captain of the ill-fated Titanic, the origin of the brewery's name. Beyond the mock Tudor frontage is a spacious interior. The bar is relatively large and immediately opposite the door. Seating is arranged around the edges of the room in the form of wooden tables and upholstered benches but also featuring high stools and poser tables. The decor is modern and fairly muted, with bare brickwork chimney breasts, painted wooden panelling and a mixture of bare wood and tile flooring. Articles and photographs about the Titanic are the main attraction on the walls. The bar is certainly well stocked, with 10 handpulls primarily offering Titanic products but also featuring a couple of guest beers, alongside traditional ciders. A similar keg wall to that at bod is located behind the bar too. My options here were Steerage, White Star, Iceberg, Plum Porter, First Class and Cherry Porter Grand Reserve, all from Titanic, with Our House and Mysterons, both from Castle Rock, filling out the guest slots. The cider offerings were Scrambler from the Bottle Kicking Cider Co., as well as Lilley's Raspberry Lemonade. Amongst the Titanic options, I hadn't had White Star very much in the past, so it was a half of that for me (£2.40) and I took a seat at a booth opposite the bar. I was very glad to have included The Beacon on my list. Whilst it isn't listed in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, a handy sticker on the door on the way in reliably informed me that it does feature in the 2026 edition. And it's easy to see why. The White Star (4.5%) is stunning. It's a golden ale with a rich fruity aroma and a full-bodied taste, both the result of dry-hopping. White Star is a SIBA Bronze Award winner so it's reputation very much precedes it. It's a gorgeous beer and gone far too soon.

Leaving the Beacon, it was time to try my luck two doors down, at the Quill & Scholar.

Another pub to have undergone recent refurbishment, the Quill & Scholar was reopened in early 2024 by Heartwood Inns, after previously being known as The Crown. It's well-appointed inside and out. The entrance opens out into a lounge area with plenty of furniture and soft furnishings. The large, long bar extends down the room towards the rear, where the dining area is located. A meet and greet station for diners is located between the two areas. There is some outside seating beyond the dining space. The toilets are located in a side corridor opposite the bar. The interior is decorated in an upmarket style with a real fire and various portraits in the lounge space. Despite being food-led, there is plenty to interest a real ale drinker. 8 handpulls sit on the bar, and 7 of these were in use during my visit, with most offerings doubled up. I had a choice between Butcombe Original, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Dark Star Hophead (all of which were doubled), as well as Titanic Plum Porter. As I don't see it very often, choosing the Butcombe Original was a no-brainer. A half cost £2.60. Please note, payment here is by card only. I took a seat in the corner of the lounge, facing into the room. As the cost likely indicates, this is a more premium outlet but don't let that put you off. It was nicely busy with a mix of families, couples and small groups, most of whom were dining or enjoying teas or coffees. This is a very comfortable venue and I was made to feel welcome. The beer is also worth visiting for. I haven't had Butcombe for a while as it tends not to travel too far north but it was in great condition here. 

The weather had certainly changed by the time I was ready to leave the Quill & Scholar. It was hammering it down with rain. A rather resigned looking man in a very nice suit bemoaned his lack of a proper coat. Luckily I had mine with me. Even more conveniently, my next stop was just around the corner and there was handy shelter to be had opposite, under the overhang of some shops. I made a break for it and managed to get under the overhang whilst I located my next destination. It was in a rather odd location, opposite where I was standing and similarly tucked underneath the shop structure jutting out above. Nevertheless, I made my way to the Earl of Lichfield.

 

Dating from the 18th century, this is a compact pub that is virtually hidden from view by the more modern rebuild at the front. Inside, expect bare wood and bare brick across a split-level layout. The entrance leads directly through to a seating area of traditional style furniture and there is also a jukebox and games machine. A short flight of steps directly ahead leads up to one side of the bar. To the left of the first room, another short flight leads into a lounge area, served by the other side of the same bar, consisting of more seating, and with a carpeted floor. The Earl of Lichfield was already quite different from the other venues I'd visited. As well as being quite a bit darker, likely an unfortunate side effect of its location, it was a bit more rough and ready. That's not to say that there's anything inherently wrong with it though. I approached the bar for a browse and was greeted by the sight of 4 handpulls, offering doubled up Marston's Pedigree and Hobgoblin Gold. Once the landlady had gently scolded a girl who was complaining about being IDed, I was served, and chose a half of Pedigree, parting with £2.35 as payment. I returned to the lower room to enjoy my beer. The atmosphere in here is actually quite welcoming, despite what first appearances might tell you. Just don't argue if you get asked for proof of age, and you're golden. The Pedigree isn't bad. Nothing mind-blowing but definitely not awful, which is about what you'd expect. This is one of those pubs where real ale probably doesn't make big numbers in terms of sales but turns over just enough to be worth having on sale. 

The rain had tapered off quite considerably by the time it came to move along, which meant that the journey to the next pub would be a lot less frantic. Turning left out of the Earl, I rejoined the main shopping street and turned right onto what was now Bore Street. My next stop would be a few yards down the road at George IV.

Named after, well, George IV, this Stonegate premises lies next door to the city's Guildhall. Another mock-Tudor front contrasts with the modern interior. A central bar serves what is effectively one fairly large room, with seating positioned along the wall but with a couple of smaller tables in the centre. The floor is laminate and the walls are clean and largely bare. There is lots of leather seating, alongside more traditional wooden tables. There are lots of mirrors situated throughout and one corner has a window that looks out into the beer garden. A pool room is off to one side and the main room includes a games machine, jukebox and sports TVs. The toilets are adjacent to the bar. A door at the rear brings you out directly next to the nearby Garrick Theatre. Being part of Stonegate's Craft Union arm often means that venues can be hit and miss for real ale. Not on this occasion though. Two handpulls occupy a space on the bar, offering Bass and something called Merry Firkin Christmas, which appeared to be either some kind of generic seasonal beer or a weird, unidentifiable rebadge. Erring on the side of caution, I went for a half of Bass, the first I'd seen all day, and parted with a very reasonable £1.70. I took a seat in the corner of the room. Truth be told, this isn't a bad place. It's very much in the vein of the Earl of Lichfield, catering for arguably less fussy clientele for much more sensible prices. I've said multiple times throughout the years that pubs should cater for everyone and everyone should be able to find a pub that caters to their wants and needs. Lichfield, so far, had shown that that particular adage is being adhered to. The Bass was decent here as well, which is another tick in the box of positives. 

I was halfway through my planned route now so this seemed like the perfect opportunity to have a lunch break. I also took advantage of my proximity to Lichfield's magnificent three-spired cathedral (the only one of its kind in Europe), and Samuel Johnson's birthplace (now a museum), to take photos of both and enjoy the fact that the weather had turned again, the sky edging back to blue, despite the wisps of encroaching cloud and the first tendrils of evening beginning to gather. Re-energised and revitalised, the second half beckoned. Skirting the edge of Cathedral Close and the nearby Minster Pool, I took a left onto Bird Street and continued. I passed several locations that I would soon be visiting but my next stop was at the end of the street, abutting the junction with The Friary. Time now for Lichfield's branch of Brewhouse & Kitchen. 

This is, in itself, a rarity, being a former Wetherspoons bought and converted by the Brewhouse & Kitchen chain. Prior to its pub life, the building was a bank, being the former home of the Lichfield branch of the National Provincial Bank, which was later subsumed into NatWest. The building itself is Georgian in style and sits next to the former site of a Franciscan friary and accompanying gatehouse (which gave its name to the Wetherspoons that previously stood here). Archaeological excavations in the mid-90s uncovered several medieval deposits and a grave site, dated to around the 13th or 14th century. Discoveries from later periods included the remains of an old brick wall. Inside, the layout is spacious with plenty of seating, both in the main bar area and in additional, smaller rooms off to the side. As is commonplace with this chain, a two barrel brewery kit occupies space along one wall, brewing specials for the bar. Outdoor seating to the front is complemented by a small beer terrace and smoking area. The decor features diagrams and artefacts highlighting the brewing process, bespoke lighting and repurposed brewery equipment. The bar is to the far right hand side of the room as you enter from the Bird Street entrance. Of the 6 handpulls, 3 were available at the time of my visit offering two of the in-house beers, namely Project Cask Whisky Stout and Handy Man, with another handpull providing Sandford Orchards Devon Red cider. I fancied the Whisky Stout (4.5%) so asked for a half and was then informed by the barman that it would be cheaper to buy a pint as they retail at £3.50 on a Friday. Not cheaper but I had time to kill and I wanted to charge my phone, so I relented and took my pint, in one of B&K's signature steins, into one of the quieter side rooms. I must admit, that I have mixed feelings about Brewhouse & Kitchen these days. Despite the novelty of the concept, you can't help but feel that the charm has worn off. With the exception of the Gloucester branch that I went to last year, I never feel particularly excited by their pubs. Most of them are fairly similar and, quite often, the prices are substantially more than other venues. I suppose you could argue that you're paying for the experience of drinking beer where it's been brewed but there's also the caveat that that should arguably make it cheaper. The Nottingham venue, where Amy and I got married, is apparently up for sale. One hopes that this isn't an ominous sign for the chain as a whole. In the present though, the Whisky Stout wasn't too bad. The whisky was very subtle, with hints of oak in there as well. The bitterness came through strongest but there wasn't a massive amount of oomph, which was a shame. It did at least help pass the time whilst my phone charged. 

Leaving my slightly underwhelming, but not altogether unpleasant, experience behind me, it was on to another nearby stop. Turning back onto Bird Street, I took the next right onto Market Street, where The Angel Inn was waiting. 

The second pub of the day operated by Joule's, The Angel is once again a showcase for their particularly niche brand of pub decor. The interior boasts lots of wood and soft furnishings throughout an open-plan layout that has been broken up into smaller areas by the use of wood and glass panels. The bar is to one side, facing into the main room, beyond which is an area of high tables and accompanying stools. The obligatory Joule's branded mirror is on one wall. Pew seating and booths run along the wall opposite the bar. The mixed tile flooring adds to the mix and hanging holly and other flowers complete the vibe. The toilets are to the rear. The bar features 6 handpulls, once again carrying the Joule's beers, namely Belgian Fruit Ale, Moon Madness, Blonde, Slumbering Monk and Pale, with the last hand pump hosting Pulp Strawberry Daiquiri cider. On this occasion, I already knew that I wanted to give the Moon Madness a try, so try it I did. A half cost me £2.25. I took a seat towards the end of the room, at one of the high tables and marvelled at the size of the cheese platter that an older couple in a booth nearby had just received. I was also marvelling at the beer. Moon Madness comes in at an oddly specific 4.66%. It's a mild, brewed with roasted barley and English hops and launched during the October full moon, hence the name. The gentle bitterness combines with flavours of rich fruit, treacle and liquorice, to give something both decadent and moreish. I was almost disappointed that I'd only contented myself with a half. 

I was well into the swing of things and I still had plenty of pubs to go. Heading back towards Bird Street, I turned right and soon located my next stop, the King's Head.

The oldest public house in Lichfield is believed to have existed since at least 1495, when it was known as The Antelope but the building itself may date back as far as 1408. The present name has been in use since at least 1694, with it also being known as The Bush at some point prior. Now Grade II listed, this former coaching inn has a prominent place in military history as the location where the Staffordshire Regiment was founded in 1705. It now pays tribute to regiment soldiers lost in service with plaques that are mounted on the wall of the entrance courtyard. Inside, the pub is a mishmash of time periods. Heavy beams and exposed timbers hint at its age, whilst there is a much more modern, conservatory extension to one side. A public bar to the front, and a larger lounge to the rear, are both served from a central bar. Operated by Marston's, the beer choice comes from their range, spread across 6 handpulls. Here, the options were Marston's Pedigree (doubled), Wainwright, Banks's Amber (doubled) and Hobgoblin Ruby. I opted for the Wainwright, at £2.60 for a half and made my way to the carpeted lounge at the rear. Furniture in this room, and throughout, is traditional scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. A window to one side looks out into the conservatory/beer garden. Marston's pubs, when they're retained historic buildings and not carbon copy purpose-built estate pubs, have a real charm and atmosphere about them, and The King's Head is no exception. You can fully believe that this would have been a real beacon for coach travellers seeking shelter in the 15th century and later. The beer is good, as you'd expect, and the pub feels cosy. Perhaps there's something else adding to the atmosphere though. The pub features on the Lichfield ghost walk, and for good reason. Eerie things go on, both inside and outside these walls. A ghostly light is often seen flickering in an upstairs window, supposedly linked to the story of a maid who died in a fire. On the pavement outside, a mortally wounded Cavalier has been seen wandering, laughing at his own predicament. A ghost called George is also believed to be in residence. Whether he is linked to either of the other figures, or is a separate entity, remains unclear. Either way, it would be easy to feel uneasy when drinking alone here on a quiet winter's evening. Luckily for me, it was still light out. I did drink my Wainwright a tad faster than usual though. 

There was a little bit more step retracing to be done now. Leaving The King's Head, I turned right and continued back down Bird Street until I reached Sandford Street, where I again turned right. Next up on my list, the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed Horse & Jockey.

 

The Horse & Jockey is something of a Lichfield institution, with a big reputation for excellent beer. I was looking forward to judging for myself. Entering underneath an elephant sculpture on the roof brings you into a large bar room, with a central bar. Various comfortable areas are spread around the edge, with seating throughout, in the form of traditional tables, and high stools, with some of these located at the bar. The toilets are in a rear corridor. Decoration is fairly minimal, with bare floors and a brick painted bar, although there are one or two photos and paintings scattered around. The pub operates a 21 and over policy, so just be advised if you were planning on visiting with children. It is dog friendly in the central bar area though. The bar features 8 handpulls, with options from far and wide. I was faced with a choice between Salopian Oracle, Dancing Duck Ay Up, Wye Valley Butty Bach, Bathams Best, St. Austell Anthem, Holden's Golden Glow, Wye Valley HPA and Draught Bass. In all my years of doing this, I was yet to even taste Bathams Best, which has a reputation all of its own. It would now be time to put it to the test. I ordered a half, which cost £2.60, and managed to sequester myself in a small snug towards the rear. The pub was rather busy whilst I was there but didn't feel rammed or uncomfortable. Besides which, I was too lost in the beer to even worry about that. What a cracker this beer is! The wait was absolutely worth it. The Best is a 4.3%, pale yellow bitter. It's fruity and sweet and has a dry, hoppy finish. It's very refreshing and bloody delicious! How it had taken me so long to try it, I'll never know. I'll definitely be actively seeking it out more often! It was clear that the Horse & Jockey's reputation is very well deserved. In a city that was proving to have lots of great pubs, this one would prove to be one of the standouts. 

As much as it pained me to leave the Horse & Jockey, I still had pubs to tick off. Handily, the next pub wasn't far away either. Turning right out of the Horse & Jockey, I continued down Sandford Street and crossed over at the crossroads, continuing straight onto Queen Street. This aptly named thoroughfare is the home of my next destination, the Queen's Head.

The second Marston's pub of the trip originally opened in 1838, the coronation year of Queen Victoria. The modest facade gives way to a traditional two roomed layout, now knocked through into one. The bar area, the larger of the rooms, has bare wood floors and a Z-shaped bar counter. The smaller room, the lounge, is carpeted. Both rooms have standard wooden furniture and there is a jukebox on the wall between both sections. The toilets are also located in the lounge. Sash windows face out onto the street and there are lanterns mounted either side of the front door. It was getting dark when I arrived here and the darkening sky made the perfect backdrop. 6 handpulls stand on the bar here and 4 of these were occupied on the day. I had the choice between Oakham JHB, Castle Rock Preservation, Marston's Pedigree and Fixed Wheel Blackheath Stout. The stout seemed like an excellent shout (unintentional rhyme klaxon!) and I soon parted with £2.75 for the privilege. I sat at a table opposite the bar, enjoying the early evening hustle and bustle. The pubs were getting busier now. At this time of year, as the nights draw in and winter descends, there are few places more snug than a pub. It helps when the beer is in good nick too, such was the case here. Blackheath Stout (5%) is a full bodied stout, brewed with both New Zealand and English hops. This results in an oaky bitterness and a finish that's packed with dark fruits. It's a very good beer and perfect for evenings such as this one. I enjoyed my time at the Queen's Head. It's an understated pub that does the simple things well.

I had two more pubs left on my tour of Lichfield's drinking establishments and I was very much looking forward to both of them. I left the Queen's Head and made my way back to the crossroads, where I turned right onto Swan Street. Upon reaching a roundabout, I went left onto The Friary, passed Brewhouse & Kitchen and then immediately took another right onto St. John Street. I was now heading in the direction of Lichfield City station. A few minutes further on, and I passed under a railway bridge, where I saw my penultimate stop, glowing in the night. It was dark now and the pub stood out like a lighthouse. This is The Bridge Tavern.

This pub has recently been resurrected. What was formerly the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed BitterSuite, reopened in its current guise in October this year, a few short weeks before my visit, following a comprehensive refit by new owners Black Country Ales, which returned it to its original name. Anyone who remembers the Burton trip earlier this year will remember me waxing lyrical about The Dog, another pub in the same group. Needless to say, I was eager to get inside The Bridge. The building itself was operational as a pub from as early as 1904, with William Watkins serving as landlord until 1915. Inside, it is warm and welcoming. Either side of the entrance can be found areas of comfy seating, with an open fire at one end. The bar is to the rear, up a small flight of stairs, and central to a larger room which extends both left and right. The bar area is carpeted and the lighting is bright but not intrusive. Framed photos and documents relating to the pub and the wider city are displayed on the walls. Etched glass panels behind the bar display the pub name and other decorative flourishes. As to be expected in one of their own pubs, Black Country Ales have a sizable presence on the bar, although guest beers also feature. There are 10 pumps in total, 9 of which were being utilised at the time that I dropped in. The Black Country Ales offering featured BFG, Pig on the Wall, and Fireside, with guest beers in the shape of Little Eaton Delvers Drop, Rowton Area 51, Keltec Miners Gold and Salopian Darwin's Origin, with two ciders also present, in the form of Weston's Old Rosie and Lilley's Cherries & Berries. I couldn't very well not indulge in a Black Country Ales beer, and so I dropped £2.25 on a half of Fireside and clambered onto a high stool opposite the bar. The Fireside was excellent. Black Country do some fantastic beers and do an excellent job of keeping them in tip top condition. At 5%, Fireside is billed as a premium bitter, with an amber colour. It boasts aromas of fruity hops, and a clean taste, before a pleasant, dry finish. I was pleased I'd stopped off here. I wasn't sure what to expect when I found out it had changed owners but I should have known better than to doubt Black Country Ales. This really is a fantastic pub. Welcoming and warm and with a distinct impression that, not only do the staff know what they're doing, but they enjoy doing it and enjoy bringing people into their space. This is a proper pub, with beer and service done well. More than that, it's a place that's a joy to be in. Much like its sister pub in Burton, I could have spent hours, nay, days sat in here, ignoring the trials and tribulations of the outside world, and I wouldn't have cared. Unfortunately, the nature of my task meant I had to away from here. More's the pity. 

My final pub would bring things almost full circle, with it being situated, as it is, right amongst the cluster of pubs on the high street from earlier in the day. No, it isn't the Spoons. I left the Bridge, with a heavy heart, and turned left, which is all well and good, but I should have turned right. It took me around a minute to realise I'd been waylaid but it was easy enough to rectify the mistake. I made my way back up St. John Street, passed the iconic local landmark of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist Without the Barrs, and its 8 distinctive chimneys, until I once again reached the junction with Bore Street, where I turned right. I was now effectively retracing most of my journey from earlier. Bore Street became Tamworth Street and my final destination was ahead. One more before home at The Whippet Inn.

This Good Beer Guide 2025 listed micropub has been operating for more than a decade. It opened in 2014, becoming Lichfield's first micropub in the process. The building it occupies was originally a house belonging to the local Larkin family but was most recently a clothes shop before being converted to pub use. The current owners took over in 2023 and have continued to build on the pub's reputation, which saw it win the local CAMRA Pub of the Year award within 12 months of opening. Inside, it's an intimate venue, with a capacity of 45, 25 of which is seated. The bar sits towards the rear of the room, with a toilet located just beyond. Seating is arranged throughout, largely around the edge of the room to allow for easier access. A feature wall includes artwork and original paintings. As well as beer, and plenty of it, spirits and wines are available. Unsurprisingly given the name, dogs are welcome, with under 18s allowed until 8.30pm. 6 handpulls take pride of place on the bar, primarily offering beer alongside a single cider. There was an interesting selection here too. Pig & Porter Yes, No, Wait, Sorry, Duration Sparkler, Brew York Schooner Matata, North Riding Cappuccino Stout, and Three Blind Mice Milk Worm made up the beer options, Somerset Scrumpy from Lilley's available for those of a cider persuasion. I was pleased that my last pub of the day was a micropub and now I just had to choose a beer. In the end, I went for the Sparkler (4.3%) and paid £2.35 for a half. This proved to be a very good choice. It's a pale ale, hopped with Idaho 7, which just so happens to be one of my favourite hops. This gives the beer orange peel, apricot and pine flavours, with a gentle bitterness. It went down a treat and rounded off the day with a bang. The Whippet is a cracking little place. There were a few other customers who clearly agree as well! Nestled amongst the bigger pubs and bars of an area of high foot traffic, it's always encouraging to see smaller venues doing so well, regardless of how established they are. There's nothing quite like the intimacy and comfort of a micropub. There's a reason the model works so well and why so many pubs of this ilk are springing up across the land. Long may that particular movement continue.

And with that, there was one thing left to do. Make the trek back to Lichfield Trent Valley station for my return train. Getting out of Lichfield ended up being fairly easy but I arrived back in Tamworth expecting to have missed a connecting train only to find, for the first time that I can remember, that a train delay would actually benefit me. The required train was running way behind so I ended up being able to catch it, although it was standing room only, which at least kept me awake and gave me plenty of time to collect my thoughts on the day's adventures. What can I say about Lichfield? It had surpassed my expectations. Despite the variety of venues visited, there wasn't one that disappointed me. Despite my misgivings about Brewhouse & Kitchen, it's still a nice pub and I didn't dislike the time that I spent in there. The depth of quality across both beers and pubs in Lichfield was unexpected but very welcome. Clearly whatever is in the water in Staffordshire doesn't just make for good beer. It makes for excellent pub experiences too. Whilst Lichfield is not off the beaten track, as a beer city, it's certainly below the radar. It's only a matter of time though. Based on my humble opinion, I'd say that it won't be too long until it's being spoken of as a beer destination. It might be a myth that Lichfield means 'city of the dead', but there's definitely no sign of an early demise in its pub scene. 

Pub of the Day: The Bridge Tavern. Fantastic pub, run and refurbished brilliantly.

Honourable mention: The Horse & Jockey. A welcoming pub with a well-deserved reputation.

Biggest surprise: The Beacon. Unexpectedly great. Well done Titanic.

Beer of the Day: Bathams Best at the Horse & Jockey. Where has this been all my life?