The Yorkshire Chronicles Part 2: The Wonders of Whitby

Greetings! If you're discovering this page for the first time, I urge you to read part one, purely to provide some context for what's to come. Otherwise, if you're already up to speed, you left us retiring to bed after a day exploring the east coast town of Bridlington on the first day of a Yorkshire road trip. Following a particularly bad night's sleep, the consequence of high temperatures and a less than comfortable bed, we rose groggily to greet the day, accompanied by the soundtrack of seagulls outside the windows of the B&B. A rousing shower put us in the mood for breakfast and, following a full English in what may well have been the world's hottest dining room, we packed up our belongings and prepared to depart for our onward journey. The second location on our tour was somewhere I'd been wanting to return to ever since I first visited, several years ago. On that occasion, I'd been in said location for only a few hours and it seemed long overdue to correct that. For Amy's part, she'd never been to the place in question and I was really hoping that she was going to enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. If you've read the title of this blog, then you will be well aware of where we were headed. Our next stop would be the legend haunted town of Whitby. 

Whitby is a seaside town, port and civil parish in North Yorkshire. It is on the Yorkshire Coast at the mouth of the River Esk and has a maritime, mineral and tourist economy.

From the Middle Ages, Whitby had significant herring and whaling fleets, and was where Captain Cook learned seamanship. He first explored the southern ocean in HMS Endeavour, built in Whitby.

Alum was mined locally, and Whitby jet jewellery was fashionable during the 19th century.

Tourism started in Whitby during the Georgian period and developed with the arrival of the railway in 1839. The abbey ruin at the top of the East Cliff is the town's oldest and most prominent landmark. Other significant features include the swing bridge, which crosses the River Esk and the harbour sheltered by grade II listed east and west piers. There are statues of Captain Cook and William Scoresby, and a whalebone arch on the West Cliff. Whitby featured in literary works including Bram Stoker's novel Dracula.

Whitby is 47 miles (76 km) from York and 22 miles (35 km) from Middlesbrough. Whitby was known in the Anglo-Saxon period as Streoneshalh, meaning "Streon's nook of land". The modern name, which first appears in the Domesday Book, means "Hvíta's farmstead", from Old Norse Hvítabýr.

A monastery was founded at Streoneshalh in 657 AD by King Oswiu or Oswy of Northumbria, as an act of thanksgiving, after defeating Penda, the pagan king of Mercia. At its foundation, the abbey was an Anglo-Saxon "double monastery" for men and women. Its first abbess, the royal princess Hild, was later venerated as a saint. The abbey became a centre of learning, and here Cædmon the cowherd was "miraculously" transformed into an inspired poet whose poetry is an example of Anglo-Saxon literature. The abbey became the leading royal nunnery of the kingdom of Deira, and the burial-place of its royal family. The Synod of Whitby, in 664, established the Roman date of Easter in Northumbria at the expense of the Celtic one.

The monastery was destroyed between 867 and 870 in a series of raids by Vikings from Denmark under their leaders Ingwar and Ubba. Its site remained desolate for more than 200 years until after the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. After the Conquest, the area was granted to William de Percy who, in 1078 donated land to found a Benedictine monastery dedicated to St Peter and St Hilda. William de Percy's gift included land for the monastery, the town and port of Whitby and St Mary's Church and dependent chapels at Fyling, Hawsker, Sneaton, Ugglebarnby, Dunsley, and Aislaby, five mills including Ruswarp, Hackness with two mills and two churches.

When the Domesday Book was compiled in 1086, Whitby was recorded being partially waste and a small settlement lying within the Langbaurgh Wapentake of Yorkshire. Further details reveal the state of Whitby's economic and agricultural decline (when compared with its pre-Conquest state under Earl Siward) which were due to the depredations of William the Conqueror's army during the Harrying of the North in 1069–70.

In about 1128 Henry I granted the abbey burgage in Whitby and permission to hold a fair at the feast of St Hilda on 25 August. A second fair was held close to St Hilda's winter feast at Martinmas. Market rights were granted to the abbey and descended with the liberty. Whitby Abbey surrendered in December 1539 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries. By 1540 the town had between 20 and 30 houses and a population of about 200. The burgesses, who had little independence under the abbey, tried to obtain self-government after the dissolution of the monasteries. The king ordered Letters Patent to be drawn up granting their requests, but it was not implemented. In 1550 the Liberty of Whitby Strand, except for Hackness, was granted to the Earl of Warwick who in 1551 conveyed it to Sir John York and his wife Anne who sold the lease to the Cholmleys. In the reign of Elizabeth I, Whitby was a small fishing port. In 1635 the owners of the liberty governed the port and town where 24 burgesses had the privilege of buying and selling goods brought in by sea. Burgage tenure continued until the Whitby (Yorkshire) Improvement Act 1837 (7 Will. 4 & 1 Vict. c. x) entrusted government of the town to a board of improvement commissioners, elected by the ratepayers.

At the end of the 16th century Thomas Chaloner visited alum works in the Papal States, where he observed that the rock being processed was similar to that under his Guisborough estate. At that time alum was important for medicinal uses, in curing leather and for fixing dyed cloths and the Papal States and Spain maintained monopolies on its production and sale. Chaloner secretly brought workmen to develop the industry in Yorkshire, and alum was produced near Sandsend Ness 3 miles (5 km) from Whitby in the reign of James I. Once the industry was established, imports were banned and although the methods in its production were laborious, England became self-sufficient. Whitby grew significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade and by importing coal from the Durham coalfield to process it.

Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include shipbuilding using local oak timber. In 1790–91 Whitby built 11,754 tons of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London and Newcastle. Taxes on imports entering the port raised money to improve and extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade. In 1753 the first whaling ship set sail to Greenland and by 1795 Whitby had become a major whaling port. The most successful year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, and the whaler, the Resolution's catch produced 230 tons of oil. The carcases yielded 42 tons of whale bone used for 'stays' which were used in the corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant. Blubber was boiled to produce oil for use in lamps in four oil houses on the harbourside. Oil was used for street lighting until the spread of gas lighting reduced demand and the Whitby Whale Oil and Gas Company changed into the Whitby Coal and Gas Company. As the market for whale products fell, catches became too small to be economic and by 1831 only one whaling ship, the Phoenix, remained. Whitby benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London, both by shipbuilding and supplying transport. In his youth the explorer James Cook learned his trade on colliers, shipping coal from the port. HMS Endeavour, the ship commanded by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764 by Tomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named Earl of Pembroke. She was bought by the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed.

Whitby developed as a spa town in Georgian times when three chalybeate springs were in demand for their medicinal and tonic qualities. Visitors were attracted to the town leading to the building of "lodging-houses" and hotels, particularly on the West Cliff. In 1839, the Whitby and Pickering Railway connecting Whitby to Pickering and eventually to York was built, and played a part in the town's development as a tourism destination. George Hudson, who promoted the link to York, was responsible for the development of the Royal Crescent which was partly completed. For 12 years from 1847, Robert Stephenson, son of George Stephenson, engineer to the Whitby and Pickering Railway, was the Conservative MP for the town promoted by Hudson as a fellow protectionist. The black mineraloid jet, the compressed remains of ancestors of the monkey-puzzle tree, is found in the cliffs and on the moors and has been used since the Bronze Age to make beads. The Romans are known to have mined it in the area. In Victorian times jet was brought to Whitby by pack pony to be made into decorative items. It was at the peak of its popularity in the mid-19th century when it was favoured for mourning jewellery by Queen Victoria after the death of Prince Albert. The advent of iron ships in the late 19th century and the development of port facilities on the River Tees led to the decline of smaller Yorkshire harbours. The Monks-haven launched in 1871 was the last wooden ship built in Whitby, and a year later the harbour was silted up.

 On 30 October 1914, the hospital ship Rohilla was sunk, hitting the rocks within sight of shore just off Whitby at Saltwick Bay. Of the 220 people on board, 74 died in the disaster, with 33 of those being buried in Whitby Cemetery. In a raid on Scarborough, Hartlepool and Whitby in December 1914, the town was shelled by the German battlecruisers Von der Tann and Derfflinger. In the final assault on the Yorkshire coast, the ships aimed their guns at the signal post on the end of the headland. Whitby Abbey sustained considerable damage in the attack, which lasted ten minutes. The German squadron responsible for the strike escaped despite attempts made by the Royal Navy. During the early 20th century the fishing fleet kept the harbour busy, and few cargo boats used the port. It was revitalised as a result of a strike at Hull docks in 1955, when six ships were diverted and unloaded their cargoes on the fish quay. Endeavour Wharf, near the railway station, was opened in 1964 by the local council. The number of vessels using the port in 1972 was 291, increased from 64 in 1964. Timber, paper and chemicals are imported, while exports include steel, furnace-bricks and doors. The port is owned and managed by Scarborough Borough Council since the Harbour Commissioners relinquished responsibility in 1905. A marina was started in 1979 by dredging the upper harbour and laying pontoons. Light industry and car parks occupy the adjacent land. More pontoons were completed in 1991 and 1995. The Whitby Marina Facilities Centre was opened in June 2010.

Whitby had made a significant impression on me after my first visit and I'd been hoping for a chance to come back ever since. I was looking forward to introducing Amy to the town and also finally having the opportunity to spend some considerable time there and explore it as thoroughly as possible. First though, we had to get there. One of the factors to consider when touring Yorkshire is that, at some point, you will have to tackle proper Yorkshire roads. It would not be long after leaving Bridlington that we would find ourselves dealing with just such an obstacle. Our route to Whitby took us through some of the areas of Bridlington that we'd covered the previous day, past the edge of the old town and then out of the town in the direction of Scarborough. Briefly entering, and then skirting the edge of, said town, we continued up the east coast. Before long, the dual carriageways, roundabouts and urban housing gave way to single carriageways, open countryside, dry stone walls and lots of hills. For the last third of our roughly 90 minute journey, we tackled changes in elevation, peaks and troughs and sharp turns, handled primarily in second gear. Eventually however, the road dropped down into a valley and the town of Whitby was revealed before us, the ruined abbey prominent on the clifftop, with the town and harbour below. A short delay caused by temporary lights and roadworks, and then some slight confusion as to the location of our B&B, later and we pulled up outside our base for the next couple of days. We had officially arrived in Whitby! We would be staying at the Arches Guest House, located on the western side of the town and a short walk from the harbour and all of the associated attractions. This particular B&B operates a self check-in system. We entered the code we'd been given for the front door and collected an envelope containing our room keys and parking permit. Parking permit filled in, and placed in clear view on the dashboard, we unloaded the car and made our way to our room, which was one of two located at the top of the building, in a converted attic space. This would prove to be both a blessing and a curse. One of the challenges of our time in Whitby would be the weather. The time of our trip away coincided with a heatwave in the UK. Day one, in Bridlington, had been hot. Our first day in Whitby was forecast to be even warmer, although the following day would see things cool down slightly. 

Having freshened up and de-stressed from the drive up the coast, we made our way out. Our intention was to tick off a couple of the traditional tourist activities, do a little bit of shopping and, obviously, throw ourselves wholeheartedly into the many pubs in the town. The location of our B&B put us a short walk from the West Cliff. Our first stop was the whalebone arch, situated on the cliff above the harbour. This is a whale's jawbone, mounted vertically in the ground, adjacent to a statue of Captain Cook and erected to celebrate the town's whaling heritage. A few photos later and we were making our way downhill to the harbour area. Whitby is synonymous with the world's most famous vampire, Dracula himself. For those not familiar with the source material, a significant portion of Bram Stoker's 1897 novel is set in the town and was heavily inspired by it. Stoker was staying in the town at the time he wrote the novel and Whitby, understandably, has leaned heavily into this loftiest of literary connections. In fact, the building in which he wrote the passages in question, then known as the Captain's Reading Rooms, is now an exhibit dedicated to the novel. It was only natural that we had this on our list to visit. It already felt warm and it wasn't even midday. Any opportunity to spend as much time inside as possible would certainly be welcomed. We made our way to The Dracula Experience, located on the harbourside and instantly recognisable by its blood red and jet black facade and vampiric imagery. We paid £7 each for the privilege of entering what we assumed was a museum that explored the history of the novel and the town's influence on Stoker's narrative. How wrong we were. It turned out that the experience is a small, but intense, scare maze, complete with grotesque animatronics that jump out. The theming does at least reflect key moments from the novel and the visit ends with a film detailing the specific events that take place in the town as described by Stoker and the locations mentioned in the text itself. All-in-all, we were in and out within 15 minutes. 

Hearts racing, and daylights well and truly frightened out of us, we needed some recovery time. It seemed like the perfect opportunity to visit a local pub. If nothing else, we'd be able to acquire shade, calm down and lament the loss of the £14 that we'd never see again. Conveniently, not only does Whitby have the benefit of many pubs, they are, by and large, clustered fairly closely together. Whilst I had, of course, compiled a list of drinking establishments for our time in Whitby, the nature of the town's pubs would see this change several times over the course of the next 48 hours. Our first stop was not a pub that was on the original list but was chosen specifically due to its proximity to the Dracula Experience. Our first encounter with a Whitby pub would be at The Pier. 

This large pub is operated by Hartlepool based Cameron's Brewery. Behind the brick and whitewash wall, you will find an open plan interior. The bar is directly opposite the entrance, with traditional furniture located throughout. There is a slightly raised area to one side. Outside, there is seating to the front as well as a staircase leading up to a roof terrace. The decor includes much nautical memorabilia alongside photos of the town. The unseasonably warm weather, coupled with the fact that it was a Saturday, meant that the vast majority of beer gardens were very busy during our stay. On the plus side, this quite often meant that there was plenty of seating inside for us to take advantage of. Upon entering, we made our way to the bar, which is blessed with 6 handpulls, although just the 3 were in use at the time. Unsurprisingly for a Cameron's house, their beers are prominent. The choices here were Cameron's Strongarm and Road Crew as well as Kirkstall Three Swords. It's not often that I get the chance to give Strongarm a go. A half of this and a Diet Coke for Amy came to £6.20, and we headed over to the slightly raised area to better peruse our surroundings. It was clear, based on how busy this pub already was, that Whitby was going to be very busy over the course of our time there. We would find out quite how busy in due course. The Pier was a welcome respite from the heat and the sun, and clearly a lot of other people had had the same idea. Luckily, we were able to find a table and, at one point, were almost presented with food that was actually meant for an older couple sat nearby. As first stops go, this hadn't been too bad. Strongarm (4%) is Cameron's flagship beer. It's a ruby ale with a distinctive creaminess in the head. There is a good balance between the hops and malt. It's a good beer on which to begin the day but without being outstanding. I feel that sums up this place overall. Considering that there were a lot of staff on shift, and the majority of the clientele were outside, the table that we sat at, and indeed some others nearby, were in need of a wipe. Still, despite the rather lacklustre approach to cleanliness, The Pier isn't too bad in the grand scheme of things. 

With our first drinks of the day down the hatch, we turned to my pre-prepared list for our next stop. Heading out of The Pier, we went right and then right again, heading back uphill, in the direction of the quieter side streets of the town. This part of Whitby has a distinct Victorian feel, reflected in the collection of independent shops, historic buildings, and pubs that we would encounter. Making our way to Skinner Street, our attention now turned to the first of several micropubs that we would be visiting on the day: Arch & Abbey.

What was formerly a china and glassware shop that was once owned by the owner of the Whitby Gazette, the Arch & Abbey is a Good Beer Guide 2025 listed micropub, now in its 6th year of operation. The current licensees were made jobless and homeless by the PubCo that they previously worked for and were able to raise money through Crowdfunding to open their own premises. The pub occupies a street that also features Sandringham House, and a former ladies' dress shop, once known as Atkinson's. Inside, the layout is one of a single L-shaped room. The bar occupies space opposite the door with seating scattered throughout. This consists of low tables and chairs, with some stools thrown in for good measure. Adjacent to the bar are shelves consisting of canned and bottled beers, alongside gift sets of local spirits. The decor is minimalist and contemporary with bare wood floors, subtle lighting and light blue walls. The toilets are located at one end of the bar. An original Victorian clock is mounted on the wall outside. The Arch & Abbey's beer reputation was about to be put to the test. A bank of 4 occupies the bar here. The options were interesting and varied and all came from within Yorkshire. We were tasked with choosing between Abbeydale Summer, Bingley Centennial, Bosun's Brew Maiden Voyage, and Wensleydale Black Dub. Being unfamiliar with Bingley Brewery, I opted for their Centennial (4.4%) whilst Amy chose a can of Brew York's Rhubarbra Streisand. All told, this combo set us back £7.20 and we stowed ourselves on a table opposite the bar. The Arch & Abbey certainly fits the established micropub aesthetic, both with its welcome and with its reliance on core values of good beer and good conversation in a cosy and comfortable environment. The pub is also dog friendly, which no doubt came as a great relief to Eric the Border Terrier and his family. Beer-wise, the Bingley offering was great. The Centennial is a showcase for the eponymous hop. This delivers delicate floral aromas and a slightly tangy aftertaste. Rye and crystal malts are used in the brew, giving a subtle, malty backbone. I do love discovering beers from breweries I know little about, particularly when the discovery happens in a pub or location that has gone previously unvisited. 

Back out into the afternoon sun we went now, with our next destination a short walk away, back in the direction we had previously come. Around the corner from our previous stop, on Flowergate, we next visited The Elsinore. 

This pub has the distinction of being the only premises of this name in the entire country. The name itself comes from that of a sailing ship. Recently refurbished, the pub boasts a single, square room with the bar in one corner. The toilets are to the rear. The decoration is simple but welcoming, with much marine memorabilia in evidence. The seating is simple and primarily consists of traditional wooden tables and chairs, with the addition of banquette seating under both windows. The Elsinore is the original home of the famous Whitby Goths, making it especially busy during the Goth weekends, and the pub is also popular during Whitby Folk Week. On the bar here you will find three hand pumps. These consist primarily of better known national brands. At the time of our visit, these brands were Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wainwright Gold and Black Sheep Best. Amy switched back to Diet Coke here, whilst I took the plunge on a half of Landlord (total cost £4.45) and we took a seat at a table roughly in the centre of the room. This very much feels like a locals pub. That's not to say that we weren't made welcome. We just got the impression that a lot of the customers frequent this place a lot. And why wouldn't they? It's a nice little place and exactly the sort of pub you'd expect to find in a seaside town. It helps that the beer is well kept too. The Landlord was in good condition and went down easily. 

As well as having many great pubs, Whitby also has an array of quirky, independent shops. We took some time between stops to peruse some of these and made a fair few purchases, both for ourselves and as presents for family. Following this shopping spree, it was back to pubs, with the next location being a short distance away. Across the road from The Elsinore was our next stop, the highly regarded Little Angel. 

Grade II listed and featured in the 2025 edition of the Good Beer Guide, the Little Angel is one of the more historic pubs in Whitby. Built in the 19th century, the pub features an 18th century well and part of the former Whitby Castle incorporated into the structure. A well worn mounting block, used to help riders mount their horses, can still be seen at the front of the building. A three sided, central bar serves three rooms. The largest room is front and centre. A smaller lounge is to one side and a snug-like space is further back. TVs, often showing sport, can be found throughout and there is an outside beer terrace to the rear. The landlord operates his own microbrewery, Lady Luck, which provides the majority of the pub's real ale, although guests feature heavily too. The Little Angel was fairly busy when we arrived and it would soon become clear as to why. We made our way to the bar to run our eyes over the beer choices, spread as they were across 9 handpulls. One of these was dedicated to Westons Old Rosie cider, with the remaining 8 offering beer, including a trio from Lady Luck, namely Black Cat, Zombie and Kraken. Also present were Bass, Bradfield Farmers Blonde, Theakston Old Peculier, Tiny Rebel Cwtch and Theakston Light Foot. Intrigued by the offerings from the in-house brewery, Amy and I both opted for beers from Lady Luck. I went for the Zombie (4%) whilst Amy went for the Kraken. We clutched our respective halves (£5.00 in total) and retreated to a table in the snug. What a pub this is. From the moment we entered, we felt at home. The atmosphere was relaxed and, despite the amount of customers, nobody seemed uncomfortable or out of place. It's not difficult to see why the Little Angel is so highly regarded. Especially when beer quality comes up. The Lady Luck beers are excellent. The Zombie is blonde ale, hopped with Huell Melon. This produces citrusy and fruity notes, with a crisp, clean finish. It's really no surprise that the Little Angel was voted CAMRA local Pub of the Year for three consecutive years. Thus far, this had been my favourite pub, but we still had plenty more to go. If the pubs and beers to come were going to be as good as the Zombie at the Little Angel, then we would be in safe hands. No pressure. 

Another very short walk would be required to convey us to our next destination. Even though leaving the Little Angel was a tough task in and of itself, we were determined to persevere. Don't ever say we're not thorough! A short journey down the hill would take us to another micropub which we had deemed worthy of our scrutiny. Appropriately enough, it was indeed Beer O' Clock.

The local CAMRA Pub of the Year for 2024, this little place was, until very recently, Mason's greengrocer's, although it now functions as a relatively new addition to the drinking circuit in this part of the town. Good Beer Guide 2025 listed, this is the only Beer O' Clock in the country. The interior is contemporary with modern fixtures and fittings and a mix of both traditional and booth seating, with high stools also available at the bar. The bar is to one side of the room and there is a snug and 'dog station' located towards the rear, where the toilets can also be found. The large windows to the front ensure lots of light. There are 4 handpulls available here. All of these were being utilised when we popped in, with choices between Timothy Taylor Landlord, Titanic Plum Porter, Kirkstall Blonde and Fell Tinderbox. Amy and I both decided on a half of the latter (£6.00 in total) and mosied over to a table at the end of the bar. I've come across Tinderbox before but opted against it in favour of something else so I was grateful for the opportunity to give it a go again. This is a West Coast style IPA that comes in at a hefty 6.3% (hence the price). It's dry and bitter with resinous and piney notes and a hint of pith. It certainly drinks far too easily for such a strong beer. Needless to say, as delicious as it was, having more than one might have been a chore. 

The day had very much warmed up by the time we departed Beer O' Clock. It was noticeably busier too, with a mix of families, day trippers and large groups seemingly out enjoying the sun. Our further beer explorations would take us somewhere a bit different. Finally reaching the end of Flowergate, we emerged back on the harbourside, on New Quay Road. We immediately turned right and followed the road around. This took us in the direction of Whitby train station, where we would find a duo of drinking dens to explore. The first of these was also the first pub so far that day that I'd visited previously. It was several years ago however, so I was eager to see whether it was as good as I remembered it. Next up, The Station Inn. 

This regular Good Beer Guide entry (including for 2025) is now owned by Stonegate and is nicknamed 'Platform 3' due to its proximity to the railway station over the road. The Station Inn was a previous winner of Cleveland Pub of the Year (2011) and Pub of the Season for Spring 2010. The layout is multi-roomed. The front entrance leads into the main bar. Opposite this is a snug. Seating is arranged around the bar, in the form of high stools and drinking ledges but there is also a preponderance of traditional seating throughout, along with more comfortable furnishings in the snug. A larger area to the rear is often used for dining but drinkers are equally welcome. Amongst the various bar offerings are 8 handpulls, 4 of which were in use during our visit. The choice was certainly less varied than expected, with the available beers being Courage Directors, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wainwright Gold and Theakston Best. Happily, I've got a soft spot for Directors so went for a half of that. Amy selected Diet Coke and we also bought a bag of crisps. Our total round came to £5.45. We just about managed to find some spare stools and perched on these a short distance from the bar. The Station Inn was very busy at this time, and filled with clientele that seemed to a bit of a spillover from the Spoons down the street. Their beer garden was filled to bursting when we past it so that logically explained it. The Directors was well kept but, to tell the truth, I was disappointed. My last visit here had revealed this place to me as some kind of real ale haven. This time I was confronted with generic beer choice. Admittedly, the pub do tend to have more ales, and a wider range, available in busier seasons but you would expect this to have included one of the hottest weekends of the year so far. Wouldn't you? It was also here that we began to notice a peculiar trend. We overheard a gentleman at the bar talking to a member of staff and explaining that he'd come over on the train from Middlesbrough and was hoping to find a vacant room somewhere. He clearly hadn't planned ahead, as evidenced by the fact that his only belongings seemed to be his phone, some tobacco and a can of deodorant. We would continue to randomly encounter Middlesbrough natives throughout the remainder of the day. At the time it seemed odd until you realise that Middlesbrough is only about 20 miles or so from Whitby. 

On we went again now, and I was determined to put the disappointment of The Station behind us. Thankfully, I had high hopes for our next stop. Crossing over the road, we climbed some steps and entered the Whitby station buildings, where you can find a pub, so named The Waiting Room.

Yet another micropub, and the first to be opened in Whitby, the Good Beer Guide listed 2025 Waiting Room is located directly on the platform used by the steam trains that serve the North York Moors Railway. This is a micropub in its truest form, focusing on cask ale and virtually nothing else. The ownership recently changed hands and it is now run by the same team behind the Arch & Abbey. As well as adhering to the micropub ethos, it also very much fits in with the 'micro' side of things. The entire interior of the pub is only six yards square. In keeping with its location, much of the theme is of a railway and locomotive variety. The small bar is tucked into one corner with the remainder of the space given over to tables and chairs. The pub's location and name has allegedly, and perhaps apocryphally, bemused many a foreign tourist who have subsequently dumped their luggage inside and disappeared for the day.  Our arrival here had been fortuitously timed. Whilst the pub was busy, there was still a table available, which we quickly claimed right before a decent sized group came in. Result! It was now time to peruse the beer options. There are 6 handpulls here and they were all occupied, with a choice between Bosun's Brew King Neptune, Abbeydale Through the Hopback Citra, 3 Brewers of St. Albans Special, Abbeydale Daily Bread, Linfit Blackmoorfoot and Abbeydale Voyager. Amy immediately decided on the Voyager whilst I eventually went for the King Neptune (4.3%) from Bosun's Brew, based in Wetherby (total cost £4.95). This is a light, golden beer with grapefruit, fruit and citrus in the profile. The body is medium and it drinks very easily indeed. Gorgeous! So far the micropubs of Whitby had been decent. This was definitely the busiest, and had the added advantage of the barman's two very tired, but friendly, dogs chilling out next to the bar and trying to stay cool. A bonus disadvantage was a non-paying customer who got very upset indeed when the barman recommended that she use the public toilets over the road instead of the one in the pub. I suspect that she didn't want to pay to pee. 

Food was very much required by this stage. I had a plan in mind but, sometimes, the universe is not conducive to plans. The original idea was to cross the swing bridge into the other half of town and stop at The Dolphin, a pub I knew from my previous visit, that I knew sold good beer and would be selling food. We crossed the bridge. Success. We entered the pub. Second success. However, our hopes were dashed. There was no real ale available and, even worse, the kitchen was closed. This was despite this information not being displayed anywhere, their website indicating that the kitchen should be open, and the fact that the beer garden to the front was absolutely rammed. Luckily, we found a solution in a takeaway fish and chip shop over the road, and we were very glad we did. The fish and chips were sensational. The batter was crispy and not greasy or soggy, and the chips were perfectly fried. We had the presence of mind to enjoy our food in a nearby side street so as to avoid the unwanted attention of any nearby seagulls. Refuelled and rejuvenated, we were just about ready to press on. Conveniently enough, our chosen location for our food break was a stone's throw from the next duo of pubs that we had in our sights. The first of these was the White Horse & Griffin.

This Grade II listed pub is believed to have been built in 1691 and was the first ever coaching inn on the road between Whitby and York and London. It operated as an inn until 1939 when it closed and was allowed to fall into dereliction, and was used to store nets and pots for local fishermen. A local builder acquired and extended the building in 1983, beginning a restoration that took 11 years to complete. The pub officially reopened in 1993. Charles Dickens is believed to have been a patron here during the Victorian era. More recent guests have included Sir Michael Caine, Bryan Ferry, Viscount Linley and comedian Micky Flanagan. The building's age can be clearly seen inside. The main entrance is narrow, leading through to a seating area of traditional wooden tables and chairs. The tiny bar is located at the back of this room, tucked into a corner. A doorway behind this leads down into the separate restaurant, at the back of which the toilets are located. A separate dining room, located upstairs, is used to cater for overnight guests. The former carriage entranceway still remains to the left of the entrance. This is a wonderful, atmospheric place in which to enter. Imagine our surprise when we were virtually the only customers. The lack of a beer garden in a heatwave does not help places like this. Still, we were about to have an excellent time here. The duo of handpulls on the bar were offering Timothy Taylor beers, specifically Landlord and Boltmaker. I opted for a half of the latter, with Amy going for a J20. After parting with £5.40 for our drinks, we grabbed a table right by the door and immersed ourselves in the history of the pub, which is handily displayed on a chalkboard by the door. This is a truly historic inn that conveys the weight of its many years of history. It's hard not to wonder what it would have been like rushing through the door here on a dark and windy night, with the moon high and the highwaymen abroad. Pubs like this are always places that feel a bit different and unusual. Perhaps there is something less than natural about the atmosphere here. As well as its award-winning restaurant, which has hosted such culinary luminaries as Ainsley Harriot and the late Gary Rhodes, the White Horse & Griffin has another, darker reputation. Spirits walk here. The most fearsome is that of Mrs. Bowler, a former landlady and, by all accounts not a woman to be trifled with. Her untimely demise came when she slipped on the steps below the pub and cracked her head. Being alone at the time, no aid came and she bled to death. She makes herself known with feelings, either making someone very welcome or very very unwelcome and uncomfortable when they enter the building. Another lingering presence is believed to be a girl named Sarah. She is alleged to have fallen pregnant by a former landlord's son. Unwilling to let the pregnancy be revealed, he threw her down the beer hatch to her death. The cellar is where she remains, where she likes to give visitors and staff a good squeeze on the shoulder. In the 1980s a challenge was set that anyone who could sleep in the pub overnight would receive a £50 reward. The money remained unclaimed. The pub now offers B&B accommodation. Good luck with that. We enjoyed our time at one of Whitby's most atmospheric venues and the Boltmaker went down a treat!

We only had to nip a couple of doors down for what would turn out to be our penultimate stop of the evening. Our next destination was the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed Black Horse. 

Dating from the 1600s, The Black Horse is a Grade II listed, three storey building, recognised for having an historically important interior. Upon approaching the door, the doorman on duty (the only one we encountered all day) asked us if it was just the two of us. We confirmed that it was and made our way inside. This is a very intimate, two bar pub. The front bar almost resembles a shop style setup with old panelling, fittings and bench seating dating back to a Victorian era refurbishment. A hatch behind this was likely the old off-sales hatch. A corridor from the front bar leads to the vaults at the rear, with another bar, bench seating and a slightly raised area. The toilets are also in this section. Bric-a-brac and equine themed memorabilia are located throughout. The leaded windows, the product of a 1986 refit, were installed by Tetley, who once owned the pub and designated it one of their heritage inns. As well as the front entrance, there is a second entrance to the side of the pub, accessed down an alleyway. The reason for the doorman's question would soon become clear. Due to the pub's small size, they do not allow groups as there physically isn't the space to accommodate them. The doorman tried in vain to explain this to a group of Middlesbrough supporters who had taken up residence in the rear bar area. Speaking of the bar, let's get to it. 6 handpulls are present here. At the time of our visit, 4 of them were in use, offering Adnams Southwold Bitter, Kirkstall Three Swords, Theakston x Hairy Bikers Triple Hop and Black Dog Rhatas, On this occasion, I went for the Three Swords, with a half of that and a Diet Coke for Amy coming to £4.95. We retreated from the bar and managed to get a table towards the rear, near the toilets. The Black Horse had surprised me. I hadn't expected it to be so traditional and historic inside. It's beer reputation had attracted me to begin with and this proved to be as good as I'd hoped. They keep a cracking drop of Three Swords. For all the pub's cosy, jovial atmosphere, you do get a sense that something else lurks under the surface. Before becoming an inn, The Black Horse spent time both as a funeral directors and as a brothel, although you'd like to think that these weren't going on at the same time. The ghost of a small girl has been sighted at the top of the stairs on several occasions. Who she is or why she is here is unknown but you would hope that she has no connection to either of the pub's previous incarnations. 

We were starting to flag a little after leaving The Black Horse. The heat, combined with the long day and the poor night's sleep the previous night, was starting to wear us down. We resolved to visit one more pub before making our weary way back to the B&B. Heading back down Church Street the way we'd come, we headed towards the Dolphin, but this time turned left onto a narrow street nearby. This is Grape Lane. The street itself was formerly known as Grope Lane before its much more savoury renaming. Depending on who you talk to, the origin of the name Grope Lane either stems from having to grope around to find your way when it was dark or, more ominously, a reference to the activities that used to go on there. Either way, two things aren't in dispute: Grape Lane is where Captain Cook served his apprenticeship, and there are a couple of pubs there too. One of these would be our final stop: The Green Dragon Ale House.

Opened in 2016 by two brothers, the Green Dragon operates primarily as a bottleshop but also sells real ale and craft beer on draft. There are two doors. The right hand one leads directly into the bar area, whilst the left leads into an area of additional seating. The two areas are linked by a doorway. The bar is nestled at the back of the right hand room, with the left hand side hosting the craft beer fridges. Amongst the 12 craft lines are two lines that are permanently used for imperial stouts. 4 handpulls are also present. The decoration is pump clips, quirky artefacts and branded merch. The soundtrack is rock and metal. This place is bloody great! I was instantly hooked before I'd even properly taken in what beer was available. Once I'd cleared my head and focused, it revealed the following: one of the 4 handpulls houses cider, on this occasion Pulp Mango & Lime. The other 3 lines are all real ale: Brew York Duality, Green Dragon Whitby Stout and Green Dragon Best on this occasion. I wasn't about to pass up Brew York on cask. At 4.6%, Duality is a pale ale hopped with Citra and Strata. It's hazy, hoppy, fruity and bloody delicious! This wouldn't be the last time I'd have said beer during our time away. A half of that, and a third of craft for Amy amounted to £4.60 and we took our drinks into the other room to enjoy them. I hadn't expected the Green Dragon to be such a standout. It's a gem of a place. The beer was superb, the ambience is great and the music is wonderful. We were very much finishing our first day in Whitby on a high. Leaving the Green Dragon almost felt like committing a cardinal sin, like stealing someone's chips or shouting at a puppy. It's honestly a fantastic place. Understated in its brilliance. 

The last of our drinks disappeared, and with some takeaway beer goodies purchased, we decided to head back to the B&B. The heat and tiredness had taken its toll. Not to worry. We had another full day and night in Whitby and we intended to make the most of it. Such was our success in doing so, that this is merely part one of our exploits in this fine town. I've split the Whitby days into two separate blogs so as to be as in-depth as possible in both, and also to avoid an overly long entry. Rest assured, there's so much more to come!

Next time: Day 2 in Whitby, featuring ruins, weird pubs and a ghostly oysterman

Pub of the Day: Green Dragon. Absolutely brilliant

Honourable mention: Little Angel. Cracking pub, excellent beer.

Biggest surprise: The White Horse & Griffin. Historic, atmospheric, haunted.

Beer of the day: Lady Luck Zombie at Little Angel. Superb!