Sauntering in Stamford

For my first 'long-distance' trip of the year, I returned to the fine county of Lincolnshire, an area that, thus far, has been criminally under-represented in these pages. In terms of beginning to put this right, I decided to visit a place whose reputation as a lovely part of the country has long preceded it. A place where history, pubs and gorgeous aesthetics collide in equal measure. I would be putting Stamford to the test. 

Stamford is a town and civil parish in the South Kesteven District of Lincolnshire. The population at the 2011 census was 19,701 and estimated at 20,645 in 2019. The town has 17th- and 18th-century stone buildings, older timber-framed buildings and five medieval parish churches. It is a frequent film location. In 2013 it was rated a top place to live in a survey by The Sunday Times. Its name has been passed on to Stamford, Connecticut, founded in 1641.

The Romans built Ermine Street across what is now Burghley Park and forded the River Welland to the west of Stamford, eventually reaching Lincoln. They also built a town to the north at Great Casterton on the River Gwash. In 61 CE Boudica followed the Roman legion Legio IX Hispana across the river. The Anglo-Saxons later chose Stamford as the main town, being on a larger river than the Gwash.

The place-name Stamford is first attested in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, where it appears as Steanford in 922 and Stanford in 942. It appears as Stanford in the Domesday Book of 1086. The name means "stony ford".

In 972 King Edgar made Stamford a borough. The Anglo-Saxons and Danes faced each other across the river. The town had grown as a Danish settlement at the lowest point that the Welland could be crossed by ford or bridge. Stamford was the only one of the Five Boroughs of the Danelaw not to become a county town. Initially a pottery centre making Stamford Ware, it had gained fame by the Middle Ages for its production of the woollen cloth known as Stamford cloth or haberget, which "In Henry III's reign... was well known in Venice." Stamford was a walled town, but only a small portion of the wall remains. Stamford became an inland port on the Great North Road, the latter superseding Ermine Street in importance. Notable buildings in the town include the medieval Browne's Hospital, several churches and the buildings of Stamford School, a public school founded in 1532. A Norman castle was built about 1075 and apparently demolished in 1484. The site stood derelict until the late 20th century, when it was built over and now includes a bus station and a modern housing development. A small part of the curtain wall survives at the junction of Castle Dyke and Bath Row.

In 1333–1334, a group of students and tutors from Merton and Brasenose colleges, dissatisfied with conditions at the university, left Oxford to found a rival college at Stamford. Oxford and Cambridge universities petitioned Edward III, and the King ordered the closure of the college and the return of the students to Oxford. MA students at Oxford were obliged to take an oath: "You shall also swear that you will not read lectures, or hear them read, at Stamford, as in a University study, or college general." This remained in force until 1827. The site and limited remains of the former Brazenose College, Stamford, where Oxford secessionists lived and studied, now form part of Stamford School.

Stamford has been hosting an annual fair since the Middle Ages. It is mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV, Part 2 (Act 3, Scene 2). Held in mid-Lent, it is now the largest street fair in Lincolnshire and among the largest in the country. On 7 March 1190, men at the fair who were preparing to go on the crusade led a pogrom, in which several of the Stamford Jews were killed, and the rest, who escaped with difficulty, were given refuge in the castle. Their houses, however, were plundered, and a great quantity of money was seized.

By the early 1500s the wool and broadcloth industry in England, on which Stamford depended, had declined significantly. Stamford was sufficiently poor, financially and demographically, that in 1548 it had to amalgamate its eleven parishes into six and its population had reduced to 800.

However, by the second half of the 17th century, after almost 150 years of stagnation, the population started to increase. As Stamford emerged into the 17th century, leather and fibre working (in the widest sense; weavers, ropers and tailors) were the main activities along with wood and stone working.

In the 1660s the various efforts to make the River Welland navigable again were finally successful. Stamford then became a centre for the malting trade as the barley from nearby fenlands to the east and heathlands to the north and west could make its way more easily and cheaper to the town.

The Great North Road passed through Stamford. It had always been a halting town for travellers; Henry VIII, Queen Elizabeth, James I and Charles I all passed through and it had been a post station for the postal service journey in Elizabeth's reign. By the later 17th century roads start to be used more for longer distance travelling. In 1663 an Act of Parliament was passed to set up turnpikes on the Great North Road, and this was to make a notable difference to Stamford's fortunes in the following century. During the English Civil War local loyalties were split. Thomas Hatcher MP was a Parliamentarian. Royalists used Wothorpe and Burghley as defensive positions. In the summer of 1643 the Royalists were besieged at Burghley on 24 July after a defeat at Peterborough on 19 July. The army of Viscount Campden was heavily outnumbered and surrendered the following day.

For over 600 years Stamford was the site of the Stamford bull run, held annually on 13 November, St Brice's day, until 1839. Local tradition says it began after William de Warenne, 5th Earl of Surrey had seen two bulls fighting in the meadow beneath his castle. Some butchers came to part the combatants and one bull ran into the town. The earl mounted his horse and rode after the animal; he enjoyed the sport so much that he gave the meadow where the fight began to the butchers of Stamford, on condition that they continue to provide a bull to be run in the town every 13 November.

The East Coast Main Line would have gone through Stamford, as an important postal town at the time, but resistance led to routing it instead through Peterborough, whose importance and size increased at Stamford's expense.

During the Second World War, the area round Stamford contained several military sites, including RAF station, airborne encampments and a prisoner-of-war camp. Within the town, Rock House held the headquarters of Stanisław Sosabowski and the staff of the Polish 1st Independent Parachute Brigade. A memorial plaque was unveiled there in 2004. A 2,000lb bomb was dropped on St Leonard St on 31 October 1940, which never exploded. 1,000 people were evacuated, until 3 November 1940.

Stamford Museum occupied a Victorian building in Broad Street from 1980 until June 2011, when it succumbed to Lincolnshire County Council budget cuts. Some exhibits have been moved to a "Discover Stamford" space at the town library and to Stamford Town Hall.

The weather for my trip to this fine corner of Lincolnshire was considerably better than the inclement weather I faced on my last outing. Whilst it was still cold, it was noticeably drier and more settled, just as well seeing as the country has been battered by two storms in the past week. Stamford is relatively easy to reach by train, although it did involve a change at Leicester and a half an hour wait. I was hopeful that my train journey would be significantly less stressful than it had been when I had attempted to get from Coventry, the last time I put my faith in the British railway system. I arrived in the town slightly before midday and I was eager to get to work. Stepping out of Stamford station, it was already clear that this would be one of the most picturesque places I'd ever visited. Would it live up to its hype? Are its pubs worthy of a visit? Come with me now, friends, as we dig deeper.

Leaving the station, I crossed the road and made my way down a street of stone houses that would not have been out of place in a Hallmark film. I followed the road round to the right, eventually reaching Wothorpe Road, where I again turned right. Upon arriving at the junction with Kettering Road, I turned left and then turned left again at the end of the road. I had now arrived, in a rather circular way, on the High Street, the central route through the centre of the town. I had deliberately gone about this in a slightly awkward way to ensure that I did not miss out my first intended stop. On the right hand side, I soon spotted the location where my day's explorations would begin: the Bull & Swan.

This 17th century coaching inn is now operated by the Hillbrooke Hotel chain, having undergone a £200,000 refurbishment by Burghley Estates in 2010 and reopening the following year. It has retained several original features throughout, including the archway through which coaches would have entered. Passing under this provides access to the building via a door to one side. This leads through into a traditional bar area and its interconnecting rooms, three in total, which are all decorated with brass and copper. A small bar is in the first room, opposite a number of comfy chairs in front of a bay window as well as a real fire. Beyond this room, a raised area features a fireplace, more seating and a pair of antlers mounted on the wall. The third room can be found around the bar and there is a separate restaurant. There is a large patio garden to the rear and accommodation can be found in rooms above. The toilets are accessed through a door to the left of the bar. Mind your head! The traditional features do not lend themselves to easy access for people of a certain height. I was very pleased, upon walking in, to see a bank of 4 handpulls on the bar, with half of these available. My first choices for the day would be between Nene Valley Blonde Session Ale and Grainstore Ten Fifty. As a rule, I don't tend to go for anything under 4% but it seemed a tad early in the day to go straight for the 5% beer and so the Nene Valley won out. At 3.8%, this turned out to be the perfect beer to start the day. This is a light golden session ale with a finish of refreshing citrus hop. It's an excellent thirst quencher and perfect enjoyed in an environment just such as this. I was impressed by the ambience of the Bull & Swan. Despite being the only customer (it was early after all), I couldn't help but feel immersed in the history and it was easy to imagine a weary traveller disembarking from a carriage outside and stomping through the door in search of sustenance and a place to rest their tired bones. 

My first stop in Stamford had been a success and I was hoping for more of the same at my next destination. Leaving the Bull & Swan, I turned right and continued along the High Street. After a few yards, I spotted a crossroads and my next stop was clearly visible. Next on the itinerary was the very old George Hotel.

Formerly a coaching inn, this Grade II* listed building is believed to be at least 900 years old. It is possible that a hostelry existed on the site as early as 947 but the exact date of the current building cannot be ascertained. A hospital of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem stood here and was partly destroyed during the Wars of the Roses. The hospital itself was associated with Peterborough Abbey. The main block of the building was rebuilt in 1597 by William Cecil, 1st Baron Burghley but is believed to have incorporated fragments of the earlier structure. Charles I stayed at the George in 1645 and a cockfighting pit was also built. The building became a coaching inn during the 18th century and was visited by Daniel Defoe who referred to it as 'one of the greatest inns in England'. Daniel Lambert, one of the heaviest people in history, who died in Stamford, was also a former customer as was William III. The hotel is spread over three storeys and incorporates the building next door, which is also Grade II* listed. The interior of the hotel includes the remains of a medieval hall, probably from the 14th century. The changing centuries can be seen in the architecture of this fine building. The hotel still features a famous, and rare, 'gallows' style sign that spans the nearby road. I have only seen two other examples of this elsewhere, namely at the now-closed Green Man & Black's Head in Ashbourne and at Ye Olde Starre Inne, in York. Given the history of this place, and its illustrious guest list, it's perhaps no surprise that it is rumoured to be haunted. A ghostly female form has been seen on many occasions. Who she is and why she haunts are currently a mystery, though she seems to confine herself to the hotel part of the building. Stepping into the George felt like stepping back in time. I entered through the front door and immediately turned right into the bar. I instantly felt very under-dressed. Amongst the hotel guests having lunch, and the locals who'd popped in for a drink, I stuck out like a sore thumb. They were in their smart trousers and suit jackets and I'd wandered in off the street with my Skechers, jeans and Baltimore Ravens hoodie. Still, I was given a warm welcome so that's always a plus. The room that contains the bar is square and relatively small. The bar occupies one end of the room and there are comfy chairs and round tables in the space opposite. Banquette seating can be found under both of the windows. The decor is in keeping with the hotel's age. There are exposed beams, original panelling, sash windows and ship-style lanterns on the walls, providing the illumination. The weight of history and the age of the building can be felt as soon as you walk in. They sell decent beer too! The bar features a trio of handpulls. At the time of my arrival, these were offering Lacons Legacy, Grainstore Triple B and Adnams Broadside. I quickly decided to go fairly local again this time and went for the Triple B from Grainstore, based in nearby Oakham. Luckily, one of the banquette seats was free so I retreated to the window and soaked up the atmosphere. I hadn't been sure what to expect here but it was certainly worth the visit. The Triple B was very good. This is a very drinkable best bitter with a balanced combination of sweetness from the malt and a clean, hoppy aftertaste. It's only 4.2% and it went down very easily indeed! 

It seemed a shame to leave the George. It's a cracking place to have a beer! I was genuinely really surprised by how much I liked it there. Perhaps I shouldn't have been. After all, it ticked all the boxes of what I really like about pubs. I was feeling hopeful that there would be more of the same to come. Turning left out of the George, I continued down the High Street, crossing the River Welland and continuing uphill. At the top of the hill, with a church on my right, I followed the road round to the left and continued on. I was now on St. John's Street. A few yards further on, at a road junction, pub number three would soon appear. Next stop, The London Inn. 

Dating back to the 1930s, the pub was originally built for Phipps Brewery in Northampton but is now privately owned. The road outside the pub was formerly part of the Great North Road. After a lengthy refurbishment, the pub reopened in 2011 and has recently changed hands again after a short period of closure. There are two entrances, one at the corner and another to the rear, both of which bring you through into the main part of the pub. A series of booths occupy one side of the room with access to the elevated beer garden and patio beyond this. The bar is long and runs along one side of the room. Barrel tables and high stools act as seating directly in front of the bar. To one side, a snug-style area features long wooden benches and high tables. The decoration is bright, airy and modern, with slogans and old beer adverts displayed throughout. Further seating can be found up a staircase opposite the bar whereas the toilets are downstairs. The bar here features 5 hand pumps. Of these, 4 of them were in use when I dropped in, with a focus on Cornish beers, unusually for the area, although one local brewer was represented. The options here were a trio from Sharp's, specifically Solar Wave, Doom Bar and Atlantic, alongside Oakham Bishop's Farewell (4.6%). It was to the latter that my attention would turn. It had been some time since I last had this particular beer and I wasn't about to pass that opportunity up. It turned out to be a good choice. It was as smooth, rich and fruity as I remembered, with the same refreshing finish. It's always good when you go back to a beer that you haven't had for a bit and it still evokes the same emotions. The London Inn certainly seems to be in capable hands. Despite the fact that the pub is a relative whippersnapper in comparison to some others, it too has retained an echo of its past. Staff have reported disembodied footsteps on the upper floor when locking up at night, alongside the fleeting glimpse of a woman in black who is more often seen out of the corner of the eye, and whom staff have affectionately named Mary. On one occasion, she was seen entering the ladies toilet. When she didn't emerge for several minutes, a concerned customer went to check that everything was OK, only to find the toilets empty. A curious tale indeed. 

Leaving the London Inn in my wake, I continued on my way, this time walking alongside the front of the previous pub, emerging into an open square known as Sheep Market. Conveniently, it would turn out that two of the pubs on my planned route sit next to each other so I would be able to visit them in quick succession and make my afternoon a touch easier. The first of these adjacent hostelries was The Golden Fleece. 

This listed building has been a pub since 1846 and is now owned and operated by Everards. The local wool market was held outside until 1930, hence the name of the surrounding area. Inside, the pub is essentially two rooms. The first, to the front, is a lounge-style space served by a central bar. Behind this is an area exclusively reserved for dining, although the lounge caters comfortably for drinkers. Seating is a combination of scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. The front room also features a jukebox and dartboard. Toilets can be found at either side of the bar. This being an Everards pub, their beers are prominently featured. 9 handpulls sit on the bar, split into 2 banks of 4 and with one standing alone. On the day of my visit, these were offering doubled up Everards beers, in the shape of Sunchaser and Tiger with the standalone handpump offering Rosie's Pig cider. After a couple of minutes of waiting whilst some food was taken out to tables, and having been greeted by a local, I was served and selected the Tiger, normally a guarantee of a good pint. It was also available here in keg form, something which I'd never previously come across. I took my beer to a table over to one side of the door and confirmed, quite quickly, that the Tiger was every bit as good as you'd expect it to be on its 'home turf'. I've rarely had a bad pint of Tiger and it's nice to see Everards continuing to maintain the quality of one of its flagship beers after all this time. 

Tiger supped, it was time to pop next door. This turned out to be one of two entrances to a pub that was originally scheduled for later in the day but, given that I was already here, it wouldn't have affected much to move things round a little. Without much further ado, I entered The Millstone.

This large pub dates from the 17th century and was a previously an important station for carriers in the area. It has retained some of its original features, in particular the beamed ceiling and slightly split-level layout. The rear garden, through which I entered, features covered smoking shelters and also has a wall-mounted TV, no doubt put to good use on much warmer days than this. Inside, more TVs can be found. The layout is of several smaller areas around a bar at one end of the room. The interior is broken up with the internal pillars. A snug-like space looks out into the garden and is adjacent to the toilets. The pub has recently acquired a new landlord and this has apparently had a positive impact on the beer choice across the 4 handpulls. Approaching the bar up a small flight of stairs, I was confronted with Grainstore Ten Fifty, Oakham Citra, Timothy Taylor Landlord and St. Austell Tribute. Given this was its first appearance of the day so far, I couldn't resist the call of Citra. This was served to me by the very friendly lady behind the bar with the disclaimer that it was pouring slightly hazy but still tasted fine. By way of explanation, I was told that the barrel in which it came had been dislodged in the cellar. No worries. As long as it's drinkable, I was sure it would be fine. It turns out that it was. I enjoyed my Citra, sat in the snug and watching Sky Sports News on the nearby TV. This could have been an excellent beer but, with the haze meaning it wasn't in optimum condition, I have no choice but to deduct a point. Still, I'd rather staff be honest about the beer quality. It was still my choice to drink the beer, after all. 

I had a little bit more walking to do now although, to be fair, not much. Leaving the Millstone the way I had come, I turned right and continued on my way, passing the local bus station on my left. A few yards further along All Saints Street, I came across a passageway, Foundry Lane, on my right. Turning into this and continuing on, I emerged on Foundry Road, opposite the Jolly Brewer.

 

Previous monikers for this local stone built pub include the New Chequers, the Brewer's Inn and the Brewery Inn, although it has operated under its current name for some time. Dating back to 1830, the Jolly Brewer has been local CAMRA Pub of the Year twice and is one of a trio in the town to feature in the 2024 edition of the Good Beer Guide. A new licensee took over in December 2023. Inside, the pub is roomy and has a split-level layout. The bar is in the lower section, opposite the entrance. The lower room also features an open fire, scrubbed wooden tables and chairs and a separate restaurant area off to one side. To the rear, the raised section features more seating, as well as a pool table and dartboard. Toilets can be found beyond this. The car park and large patio are used for beer festivals and other outdoor events during warmer weather. There are 4 handpulls on the bar here, offering a mix of beers from locally and further afield. On the day, my choices were Timothy Taylor Landlord, Robinson's Dizzy Blonde, Oakham JHB and Black Sheep Best. It had been a fair while since I'd had anything from Robinson's core range, Trooper notwithstanding, and so I opted for the Dizzy Blonde (3.8%) and headed into the empty restaurant area, a short distance from the bar. I should have known that I'd like the Jolly Brewer when I walked in and a classic rock playlist was coming through the speakers, although this then became My Chemical Romance. Do they count as classic rock now? Am I old now? Existential crisis in full swing, I can at least confirm that the beer was cracking. Dizzy Blonde is an underrated session beer, not often seen in these parts. The music soon became Judas Priest and then Iron Maiden which assuaged my concerns about aging, at least temporarily and then, for some reason, the music stopped altogether leaving just the background noise of other customers, alongside the distant whine of my tinnitus. Soon my glass was empty and it was time to move on.

Retracing my steps, I headed back down Foundry Lane and turned left, this time continuing directly down All Saints Street, until I reached All Saints Church, looming over the busy road. In the shadow of this edifice, lay my next two destinations, effectively sister pubs, located side by side. The first of these was the Crown Hotel.

This is a very solid-looking three storey building, operated by Knead Pubs, who run a number of premises in the town. Inside, a mosaic tiled lobby leads into a large, open-plan space with the bar to the rear and dining areas to both sides. The front of the bar caters primarily for drinkers and boasts long, low benches and high tables and stools, alongside sofas, in terms of seating. The toilets are located down a corridor to one side of the bar and the walls throughout are decorated with items linked to rural pursuits, including a bicycle mounted on the wall. Other quirky touches include chandeliers made of empty bottles. The trio of handpulls on the bar were all in use when I arrived, offering a choice between St. Austell Tribute, Oakham Citra and Timothy Taylor Landlord. This time I went for the Tribute and moved over to a high sofa roughly between the bar and toilets. The Crown Hotel is a nice place. During my visit it was quiet but it caters for lots of functions and this is easily the sort of place that would do a very good job of dealing with large events. It was a shame therefore that the Tribute was slightly warmer than I would have liked. Whether this was down to the glassware or an issue with cellar cooling remains to be seen. The Tribute was drinkable enough however and I whiled away a good few minutes here, primarily watching the bar staff fob off a sales rep.

Upon leaving the Crown, my next location stood literally next door. Another Knead Pubs business, this is Paten & Co.

This old building was formerly known as both the Marsh Harrier and the Periwig but now goes by Paten & Co., to reflect its appearance as an 18th century merchants property. The interior has been entirely redesigned, across all three floors, and how features a stripped back, urban industrial theme throughout. Reopening in 2017, the pub now specialises in craft beer and excellent food, which comes out of an open-plan kitchen, complete with charcoal oven, on the first floor. I was instantly reminded of Bod in Matlock when I stepped through the doors here. Something about the industrial decor, muted lighting, comfy seating and minimal feel really rang some bells. The bar is along one side of the room. Seating opposite is high tables and stools. Booths and longer benches are located to the rear, up a flight of stairs. A single toilet can be found on this floor and there are more on the top floor. Two handpulls sit on the bar, only one of which features real ale. On the day in question, this was Ossett White Rat. The other handpull was reserved for Lilley's Mango cider. White Rat acquired, I retreated into the back room, grabbed a booth and took the time to charge my phone and better observe my surroundings. Based upon the two premises I'd seen so far, it's clear that Knead Pubs like to maintain the historical aspects of the buildings they take on but also give them a modern twist, something that is clear to see, both here and at the neighbouring Crown. It's worth mentioning here that both Paten & Co. and the Crown Hotel are cashless venues, as with all Knead Pub premises, so payment is by card only. The White Rat was also very well kept. It's always a good sign when more craft-driven places still make the effort to look after their real ale. This is a nice little place to spend a bit of time and I even got to briefly see a shouty sausage dog (so, a sausage dog) as I was finishing my beer.

Beer drank and phone topped up with battery, I headed out, this time to a place that had been a late addition to the itinerary. I left Paten & Co. and turned right, heading up a narrow road that leads between the adjacent pubs and leads away from the church. Following this road around eventually brought me to Broad Street where, halfway down, you can find the Lord Burghley.

A conversion of an 18th century building, the pub has retained many of its original features, with reclaimed materials used for the rest. It is named after the ancestral owner of nearby Burghley House. Inside, the pub is large with multiple rooms and two fireplaces. The main room, around the single bar, features a TV and dartboard. To the rear are two further spaces, one with comfortable seating and large windows and another, smaller room, with bare furniture and exposed beams, decorated with sports trophies and other assorted objects. To the rear is a large patio, half of which is covered and heated, which also has a TV. Outside is also where the toilets are located, in an adjoining outbuilding. The bar features 6 handpulls. 5 of these were in use when I wandered in and offered a choice of Grainstore Ten Fifty, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Fuller's London Pride, Sharp's Doom Bar and Oakham JHB. I thought it was about time that I gave the Ten Fifty a go and I ordered this and then made my way into the smaller room off of the main bar. As mentioned, the Lord Burghley was a late addition to the list but it proved to be a good one. It's welcoming, cosy and comfortable. Plus there was a dog, specifically a Doberman called Zeus, that kept barking for attention. I was glad that I'd made the effort to stop off here. It's nice when a 'wild card' turns out to be a good decision. The beer here backed my decision further. Ten Fifty (5%) is a mahogany coloured beer with pronounced hop bitterness and a natural malty sweetness. All in all, it's a very balanced, thoroughly enjoyable beer.

Next up on my list was a pub that I'd been very much looking forward to since I first began planning my Stamford trip. To find it, I needed to complete a short walk from Broad Street to St. John's Street. There can be found the Tobie Norris. 

One of the oldest buildings in Stamford, parts of this building date back to around 1280. In 1617, it was bought by Tobias 'Tobie' Norris, after whom it is named, and used as a bell foundry. It was used by an RAF association from the 1950s until it was converted into a pub in 2005 by Mick Thurlby. The resulting conversion saw the pub win CAMRA's Best National Pub Restoration Award in 2008, the same year it was named Peterborough CAMRA Pub of the Year. The pub is another in the Knead Pub Co. estate and is listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. Boasting 7 rooms across its two floors, it has been restored, spectacularly, to its former glory. Entering through a very narrow front entrance, brings you into a central corridor. To the right, is a room for both dining and drinking, featuring low, wooden pews for seating and wooden tables. The floors throughout are a mixture of wood and flagstones. The corridor leads to the rear, where there is further seating and access to a garden. To the left of the entrance is the bar area with another, smaller room to the left of this, featuring recycled church seating, and more wooden tables. This room sits directly under one of the original windows to the street out the front and the whole pub is decorated with old posters, advertisements, street signs and various other objects of interest, including paintings and old clocks. On the bar itself, is a bank of 6 hand pumps. I was very pleased to see that 5 of these were in use. My choices here were Titanic Plum Porter, Nene Valley Bitter, Oakham Citra, Hopshackle Special Bitter and Lilley's Merry Monkey cider. Again, payment here is by card or mobile only. As tempting as the Plum Porter was, Special Bitter, from Market Deeping based Hopshackle, was a new beer for me so it would have been remiss not to give it a try. This I did, whilst secreting myself in the aforementioned room to the side of the bar. I had chosen wisely. This is a sensational beer. At 4.3%, it's a traditional brown coloured English bitter with complex flavours of fruit and malt and a dry, bitter finish. Black treacle is added to the brew and it gives a whole new dimension of sweet bitterness. It's an absolute triumph! I barely had two sips and it seemed to have disappeared! The Tobie Norris is a standout pub. The owners and the renovators have been rightly commended for the job they have done here. They're turned this place into something very special indeed. I didn't even manage to look in all the rooms, such was my amazement as the ones I did actually manage to see. I can heartily recommend dropping in here for a visit. It's a gem.

As painful as it was to leave the Tobie Norris, I had two more pubs to visit before my return train. Making my way back down St Johns Street, I found myself approaching the opposite end of the town centre, indicated by the empty shell of a former Wilko. Here I turned left, onto Maiden Lane, passing another church, next to which sits the King's Head. 

This family-run free-house occupies a 19th century stone-built building. Inside, there is one room, slightly split level, with a couple of tables opposite a small bar in the raised area, and further seating in the lower level. The ceiling features original wooden beams, there is a wood burning stove and a sun trap garden to the rear, which includes cover and heating to help against the traditionally unpredictable British weather. Though the pub is small, its reputation for beer and food more than makes up for it. I would soon be putting that reputation to the test (the beer part of it anyway). The pub operates a 'one barrel' policy and served over 400 beers in the two years since it started doing so. Once a beer is gone, it is gone! The pub also operates a form of table service, whereby drinking is not allowed at the bar. Staff will come to the table and take orders directly. Whether this is a holdover from COVID times or a way of coping with the pub's small size, I'm unsure. However, such is the King's Head's reputation, it was named CAMRA Branch Town Pub of the Year for 2022. It is also listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. I entered the pub to find it empty, with the exception of the member of staff on duty, who was busily working on a chalkboard. I was greeted pleasantly and made my way to the bar where I spied a group of 5 handpulls, 3 of which were in use. One of these hosted Rutland Cider whilst the others featured beers from Baker's Dozen, a brewery that is based in the town itself. On offer were their Sinc Stream and Stamford Pale. I went for the latter, a 4% pale ale, and moved to a round table directly opposite the bar. A brief chat with the member of staff elicited that the pub isn't normally as quiet as that. Likely, everyone is gearing up for pay weekend, something that hospitality businesses eagerly await as everyone returns to the pubs at the end of January after being bankrupted by Christmas and New Year. So far, I could see why the pub is so highly regarded. The beer would also prove the point. Baker's Dozen are a two-person microbrewery and Stamford Pale is a pale ale, single hopped with Cascade. It's very fruity, well-balanced and very easy drinking! I was impressed with the King's Head. Leaving this and the Tobie Norris to the latter part of the day had definitely paid off. I had one destination left to visit and it would be different to anywhere I'd been so far.

Leaving the King's Head, begrudgingly it must be said, I continued down Maiden Lane. This eventually brought me back to the top of St. Mary's Hill, in the shadow of the church I'd first encountered after leaving the George several hours before. Opposite the church, in a rather nondescript building, is Stamford's only micropub, The Copper Room.

Firstly, a disclaimer. I knew full well that I would not find real ale here. I was purely curious as to how a micropub would fit in in the surroundings of Stamford and what a micropub in this area would look like. Whilst the row of buildings that house the Copper Room are old, the pub itself opened in 2018. Its focus is very much on keg beers. There are no hand pumps and a lot of the keg beers are well known national brands, although it does feature local KeyKeg beers on draught. The bar is to the left of the door as you enter, with a seating area opposite, one side hidden behind a partition. The seating consists primarily of low tables and sofas, although there are a couple of converted barrels, with highbacked stools, in close proximity to the bar. One of these, where I would ultimately end up sitting, has a top decorated with two pence pieces under a glass tabletop. A doorway to the rear leads to the toilets. I took a moment to peruse the, admittedly very well stocked, bar and noticed keg beers available from Baker's Dozen. Having enjoyed my beer at the King's Head, it made sense to see what else they had to offer and so I selected Undertow (4.8%), their interpretation of a New England IPA, hopped with Nelson Sauvin and Citra. I took my beer to the barrel table, pulled up a stool and settled in. I had some time to kill before my train back so this seemed as good a place as any to spend it. The beer was delicious. It had all the hoppiness and subtle bitter notes you'd expect from the style, as well as the accompanying haze. Baker's Dozen are definitely a brewery I'll be keeping an eye on. The Copper Room, despite its lack of real ale, is a pleasant enough place. It occupies a handy niche in the town and there was clearly a gap in the market for this kind of venue in Stamford. It also happened to be playing an alternative rock playlist which is always good, although it did inexplicably play the same My Chemical Romance song that had come on in the Jolly Brewer earlier. No, I don't want to join the Black Parade!

Before too long, with both my beer supply and my wits exhausted, I bade farewell to The Copper Room and made the short walk back to the station where, I was able to return home, again via Leicester with nothing dramatic happening beyond a 10 minute delay to my connecting train. What did I make of Stamford? Are the plaudits and the praise of the town justified? In a nutshell, I would certainly say so. The town itself is lovely and I'm very glad that I was able to visit somewhere that I'd heard a lot about and see it for myself in all its glory. Clearly, it can be argued that the beer scene in Stamford is in rude health too. Laying as it does, between Peterborough and Oakham, two other locations with a burgeoning beer scene, it makes sense that Stamford would find itself caught in the spillover. Every venue I visited was different enough to each other to allow them all to thrive and that, really, is what beer locations should be about. There should be something for everyone. Anyone should be able to find their niche and find something that suits them. On this evidence, Stamford really might be one of those towns that not just welcomes anyone, but benefits everyone. 

Pub of the day: The Tobie Norris. This was a close run thing between here and the King's Head but the Tobie Norris just edges it.

Beer of the day: Hopshackle Special Bitter. Without a doubt. It's sensational.

Biggest surprise: The George. Even knowing a bit of the history didn't prepare me for how impressive this place is.

The Gam's Afoot!

Here we are then: 2024. Happy New Year to one and all. May it be more successful and happier than the last. It does make me feel good to be able to update this page so early into a new calendar year. Amidst all the chaos of late December, I was unable to fulfil my plan to squeeze in another trip before 2023 was out. However, a delay of only a few days meant that I was able to briefly postpone my intended excursion into the more sedate days of early January and I ultimately ventured out a mere two days ago, not long after the calendar had reset into the the new year. The delay in proceedings was made substantially easier by my intended destination being very close to home. Often, in my attempts to explore as many wide and varied locations as possible for the sake of this blog, it can be tough to figure out where to fit in specific venues. The aim of this trip was to head to the suburbs and investigate a couple of neighbouring areas and a quartet of pubs, hitherto unvisited. My aim would be to venture to the villages of Gamston and Edwalton, located as they are on the outskirts of Nottingham and conveniently close to one another. I had a broad idea of what to expect. I knew from previous research that the pubs out that way would be chain pubs but this didn't necessarily mean that they weren't worth visiting. As both Gamston and Edwalton are located on bus routes from Nottingham city centre, I'd decided to begin at the former and walk to the latter, ticking off the pubs on the way. What I hadn't counted on was that the day I had chosen for this task would turn out to be one of the wettest I've every experienced, thus increasing the difficulty factor somewhat. 

Gamston is a village, civil parish and suburb of West Bridgford, in the Rushcliffe district of Nottinghamshire. The population of the civil parish at the 2011 census was 2,164. It is situated approximately 3 miles (5 km) south-east of Nottingham and the same distance east of West Bridgford.

The parish of Gamston comes under Holme Pierrepont and Gamston Parish Council. Gamston is split into Gamston North and Gamston South wards of Rushcliffe Borough Council; Gamston North includes Holme Pierrepont And Gamston Parish Council and the current Councillor is Jonathan Wheeler. The parish contains the villages of Holme Pierrepont and Edwalton. The population of this ward also taken at the 2011 Census was 5,337. It is one of the nine wards in West Bridgford.

Most of the homes in Gamston were built since the 1980s as part of the expansion of West Bridgford. The homes range from 2 bed bungalows and one bed terraces to 5 bedroomed family homes.

The border between Gamston and Edwalton exists at the junction of Beckside, Melton Gardens and Alford Road. The West Bridgford border however is somewhat harder to ascertain, although the Grantham Canal provides a partial boundary to the north-west of the village.

In 2009, Gamston was proposed as the site for a 45,000 seat football stadium, to host games in the 2018 World Cup and Nottingham Forest football club, who have played at the City Ground in West Bridgford since 1898. Previous suggested sites included nearby Holme Pierrepont.

Gamston is easily reached by bus from Nottingham city centre and so, having boarded the Trent Barton Mainline bus I would eventually arrive in the area around 12:30, delayed by a few minutes due to unpleasant driving conditions and the bus having to negotiate the tight confines of West Bridgford's main shopping precinct. From the onset, the day's weather was horrendous. Grey skies and heavy, persistent rain, courtesy of Storm Henk, would be in abundance all day and ultimately cause a number of flood-related issues, including transport delays and road closures, both locally and across the country. It can certainly be an ordeal completing these trips but I am nothing if not a seasoned professional. Conveniently for my itinerary, the Mainline bus stops at a location that shares its name with the first pub on the route. At the junction with Radcliffe Road and the A52 junction, I disembarked to find my first stop just across the road. Using the handy pedestrian crossing, I was soon approaching The Gamston Lock. 

This large, roadside pub, located adjacent to the ring road was completely rebuilt following a devastating fire in 2013 that destroyed the previous premises. The previous building was originally built in the 1980s for Banks' of Sheffield and was known as The Bridge at Gamston, a name it retained until its fiery demise. The current moniker has been in place since the rebuild and reflects the location's proximity to the canal. The Gamston Lock is owned and operated by Marston's, under the Rotisserie Pub Restaurants arm of their portfolio. There is also a hotel attached, again run by Marston's, set slightly behind the main pub building. Having crossed the flooded car park, I was pleased to find the pub warm, dry and welcoming. Inside, the pub is large, with a central bar. To the left, is an area laid out specifically for dining. Less formal arrangements can be found to the right, with this area preferred for the casual drinker, although it is possible to eat in both areas. The interior, whilst resembling two large rooms, has been thoughtfully divided up into smaller areas. The dining area has small, glass screens dividing up the space. In the drinking area, to which I am directed, a row of booth-style tables can be found at the back of the room. A number of smaller areas, divided by pillars, are located throughout, including a small, elevated section to one side and a snug-like space, fronted by windows, to the front. The toilets are located to the rear. There is outside seating to the front, although given the weather conditions upon my arrival, this was very wisely unoccupied. This being a Marston's premises, ale is available, and I was greeted by 8 handpulls, arranged in two banks of 4. 3 of these were in use, providing a choice between Wainwright, Brakspear Oxford Gold and Marston's own Brew-dolph. Christmas ales would make an appearance in most of the day's pubs, a hangover from the strange transitional period between Christmas and New Year. For my first beer of the day, I selected the Oxford Gold. It's been a while since I'd partaken of this particular beverage and I don't often see it on draught up here so it would have been rude not to. I retreated from the bar to a table with banquette seating a short distance away so I could simultaneously wet my whistle and dry off. The Oxford Gold was a delight! At 4% on draught (the bottle version is 4.6%), it pours pale gold and features citrus aromas that give way to a zesty, fruity finish. As opening beers go, you can do much worse!

As opening pubs go, the same can be said for The Gamston Lock. Whilst it is clearly food-led, the beer is good. It wasn't particularly busy during my visit. Apart from myself, there were a couple of other groups in my side of the pub, presumably locals, although a few other people did arrive for food during my stay. Given that the day of my visit was the first day back at work after the festive break, and the weather was horrible, it's not really surprising that footfall was reduced. Suitably rejuvenated, I braced myself for venturing back outside. It would be a little bit of a walk to the next pub and the weather showed no sign of improvement. Crossing back over the car park, I turned left immediately upon exiting and cut down an opening between rows of houses. This brought me into the residential part of Gamston, effectively a large housing estate with lots of very nice looking houses on both sides. Taking a right, I followed a footpath behind some houses and emerged on Ambleside, one of the central thoroughfares through this area. According to Google maps, my next stop wasn't too far away. However, several minutes of searching, retracing my steps and looping back and forth soon convinced me that the pub in question is not where Google Maps seems to think it is. Not to be deterred, I resolved to continue down Ambleside. I was following a hunch. I knew that the next pub was in close proximity to both the A52 and a Morrisons supermarket so I headed towards what I suspected was the outer edge of the estate. My hunch was soon proven correct. A few minutes later, and considerably wetter, I saw the welcome sign hove into view. I would next take refuge at The Goose. 

Originally built in the 1990s to serve, what was then, the new Gamston estate, The Goose was formerly a Kimberley's tied house but is now operated by Greene King, under its Eating Inn banner. Another food-led pub, the interior is large and open plan. There are two entrances, to the front and side, both leading through into one large room with a U-shaped bar. The furnishings are comfortable, with furniture primarily wooden tables and chairs and banquette seating. A small number of high tables and stools are arranged near the bar. The whole layout is broken up into smaller areas for dining. A larger space at one end is more suitable for dining. A raised area to one side is quieter and tucked slightly away from the main space. The toilets are tucked into a corner, adjacent to the side entrance. The pub is family-friendly and houses a Kids Playzone/disease factory, which hosts family events. As with all Greene King pubs, there are ales available too. On the bar here are 10 handpulls, in two banks of 5. When I stumbled in from the rain, 6 of these were occupied, although these did consist of 3 beers doubled up across both sections. My choices here were Greene King IPA, Greene King Abbot Ale and Hardys & Hansons Rocking Rudolph. In the face of such options, it was Abbot for me and I perched on a stool at the bar. The Goose was slightly busier than the Gamston Lock but not by much. A trio of labourers were sat at a high table nearby. An elderly couple came in for their lunch, with the gentleman struggling with the card machine. On the other side of the room, small family groups were enjoying lunch. I was enjoying the Abbot too. You'd expect it to be good in a Greene King pub and this ticked all the boxes. It was much needed after the walk down and was all the better as a result. The Goose has the feel of a well-used proper estate pub. No frills, no bells and whistles. Just a boozer serving the local community and anyone who happens to be passing through. 

Soon, it was time to brave the wet and windy weather once again. Leaving The Goose and setting off into the torrent, I turned left, passing the aforementioned supermarket, and a vets surgery, on my right. Continuing on, the road becomes Beckside, which marks the boundary between Gamston and the village of Edwalton. 

One of the earliest mentions of Edwalton village is in the Domesday book where it features among lands given to Hugh de Grandmesnil by King William 1. This land required more than three ploughs and consisted of 20 acres (8.1 ha) of meadow.

After the marriage of the heir to West Bridgford's landowners, the Musters family, into the Chaworth family, the areas of West Bridgford and Edwalton were joined as West Bridgford Urban District and now as part of Rushcliffe Borough. While the official boundaries of Edwalton are uncertain, Boundary Road is commonly accepted as the division from West Bridgford.

Edwalton contains some of Nottingham's most expensive properties: Valley Road, Melton Road, Croft Road and Village Street include properties worth over a million pounds. Edwalton Hall, the largest, was once the residence of the Chaworth family and is now an exclusive complex of mews houses and apartments. For a time it became a hotel and restaurant, before being developed by Crosby Homes. Today it includes a gym, swimming pool and croquet lawn. In recent years developers have laid out new housing estates in the area known locally as Sharphill Farm. These are primarily of high-specification family homes, with good road links for commuters. Edwalton is varied architecturally. Landmark bespoke houses are common, but most of it is now composed of large housing estates, first built in the early 1950s, with subsequent estates added in the 1980s to the present day. Many council houses and flats were privately bought under the Right to buy scheme of the 1980s. Only a small number now belong to Rushcliffe Borough Council. Its housing stock passed in early 2003 to Spirita Housing Association. On 1 April 2012 Spirita was dissolved and ownership was taken over by Metropolitan Housing Association Group, based in London.

My journey into Edwalton coincided with even more of a downturn in the weather. I managed to eat my lunch without it getting too soggy before the rain increased. I passed overflowing culverts and gushing storm drains. The rain showed no signs of abating in the foreseeable future. Thankfully, the third pub wasn't too long of a trek away. Carrying on down Beckside, I eventually reached a roundabout. Immediately to the left of this, from my point of view, is a pub by the side of the road. A pub which I would now investigate. Onwards to the Meadow Covert.

Another Greene King operated premises, the Meadow Covert had something of a 'reputation' a few years ago. When I worked nearby (more on which later), it was spoken of in rather unsavoury terms. I was about to see whether there was any truth to this or whether the rumours were unfounded. The pub's unusual name comes from 'covert' meaning 'a shelter for people stuck or lost' (very apt) and its locality, close to Meadow Covert Wood. The building itself was converted from an off-licence in 1955, although the current pub is significantly different to the original layout. A single main entrance leads through to two rooms. To the right, is the public bar which features TVs, dartboards and a pool table, along with raised tables and chairs. An adjacent outdoor smoking area is heated and has its own TV. This area of the pub is where the off-sales area of the original building would have been located. The bar counter has survived in its original form. An additional bay into this area was added when the front entrance was enlarged into its current state. To the left of the entrance is an L-shaped lounge with comfortable seating and a large, central bar. The toilets are at the top of the long arm of the L. A door to the rear leads to the garden which includes a children's play area in one corner. I arrived at the Meadow Covert in a distinctly soggy and bedraggled fashion. I am still surprised that I didn't leave a trail of water behind me on the carpet. However, I would soon be warmed by the sight of the bar and its 8 handpulls, an impressive 6 of which were in use. The choice here was a touch more varied than I was expecting: Hardys & Hansons Rocking Rudolph; Caledonian Deuchars; Timothy Taylor Landlord; Castle Rock Harvest Pale; Greene King Abbot and Greene King IPA. I opted for the Landlord and made my way to a table inside the bay window directly opposite the bar. This came equipped with a radiator so I could at least attempt to get a bit warmer and drier whilst I watched the car park outside slowly become a lake. The Meadow Covert turned out to be much more welcoming and friendly than I expected, although I was virtually the only customer. It's a comfortable place to avoid the rain, if nothing else, and I can confirm that the Landlord was well kept. It was certainly a more pleasant form of wetness than I'd endured on the walk here. 

Before long, my pint glass was empty which meant that I would be making my way back out into the wilds of the storm, in search of my final destination, and the only one of the day with which I have a prior connection. Leaving the Meadow Covert, I turned right, made my way back to the roundabout and this time went straight on, onto Alford Road. The road itself was treacherous now. I had to dodge large puddles on the pavement and standing water was prevalent on the road surface. Cars were at least slowing down to avoid splashing me and any other unfortunate pedestrians who might be nearby. I continued on down Alford Road, passing what would normally be playing fields but, at that point in time, resembled a scene from Waterworld. Eventually reaching the end of the road, I turned right onto Stamford Road and then took the next left onto Rufford Way where, in the fading light, I spied the Willow Tree.

Fun fact: I once worked at the Willow Tree. For two months in early 2013, I held the post of Assistant Manager. For reasons I won't go into, I ended up resigning my position and taking a year out from hospitality before it inevitably dragged me back into its slimy claws, where I've been trapped ever since. It wasn't all bad. Shortly after leaving here, I decided to start this blog. Look how far we've come! I was looking forward to seeing if and how the pub had changed in the meantime. This was the first time I'd been back since the end of my employ. Originally a Bass house, The Willow Tree is owned and operated by Stonegate and underwent a full refurbishment in November 2016. Again, the layout is open plan with a mixture of wooden and carpeted flooring. The seating, a mixture of tables, chairs and sofas, is comfortable and the overall decor is plain but contemporary. The main, front section is primarily for drinkers. A smaller area to one side is preferred for dining and there is a comfortable lounge to the rear. To one side there is an area for pool, darts and sports TV. This area used to be a separate function room all of its own but the refurbishment has opened up the internal structure and removed a lot of the pre-existing partition walls. In comparison to the layout from my time here, it's lighter, brighter and a lot less dated. The bar occupies most of the central space, with the toilets to one side. When I squelched my way in through the decidedly wet car park, I was surprised to see that the pub was fairly busy. Even though it was later in the day, with the weather being so bad, I almost expected this place to be empty. Instead there were a number of equally drenched people about, some of them accompanied by soggy looking canine friends. Still, I had at least made it to the end of the route so I was determined to enjoy it. The bar at The Willow Tree boasts 6 handpulls, and 4 of these were being utilised during my visit. The beer choices were decidedly more exciting than what I'd seen elsewhere during the day and I was faced with the choice of Sharp's Doom Bar, Shepherd Neame Spitfire, Theakston Lightfoot and Exmoor Gold. Exmoor Gold is am absolute rarity in this part of the country so I was instantly drawn to it. Pint procured, I slithered over to a small table in a quieter section of the pub, again near to a convenient radiator, to take it all in and reminisce about the place. All-in-all, I really like what they've done to it. The feel is definitely more modern and the atmosphere is comfortable and jovial. I certainly enjoyed my return visit more than I enjoyed working here, although looking back on it now does fill me with a sense of nostalgia. How about the beer? I'm glad you asked. Exmoor Gold (4.5%) is normally a beer I enjoy. The aroma is of fresh grassy and floral hops. There is a soft maltiness, with a tinge of caramel. On the palate, it's a balance of gentle grain and floral and citrus fruitiness. The finish is normally bittersweet with hints of citrus here and there. However, on this occasion something was missing. The flavours were there but nuanced, like they'd been toned down. The clarity wasn't what it was supposed to be. It didn't taste bad. It was just: fine. That's the only way to describe it. Fine. Not unpleasant. Drinkable but not to its usual standard. I was a tad disappointed but the experience of the pub itself was enough to not put me in too much of a grump. 

With the last drop of Exmoor Gold gone from my glass, and my final pub ticked off, it was time for the arduous final leg, in which I would attempt to make it back to Nottingham unscathed. Luckily, I was able to find a bus that wasn't unduly hampered by the weather and I arrived back in town without having to construct a seafaring vessel of my own design to get me there. Had my adventure in the face of the storm been worth it? What had I learned? Overall, I would argue that every trip to a new pub is worth it. Because I'm a massive geek, I enjoy seeing different pubs, their layouts and the ways they do what they do. In that respect, it was worth braving the wind and the rain, the wet clothes and the sore feet. This is one of those trips where I learned, even more so, that every pub has its place. The pubs on this excursion were nothing overly special but there was nothing overwhelmingly negative about any of them either. They are pubs, providing a service to those that need it. In essence, these pubs are the very heart of what community pubs can be said to be. They are a haven and a destination for those that live nearby. Sometimes that's all people really need. A beacon in the night. Perhaps, their 'specialness' is truly in the eye of the beholder (or 'beerholder') and can only really be measured by those who use them every day. It's also testament to what can be found in areas that you wouldn't normally have any cause to visit. They might surprise you.

With this first trip of the year out of the way, what else do I have in store for 2024? As usual, I have lots of trips to new locations planned, all being well, as well some potential return trips to some old favourites and there will definitely be some long overdue reappraisals of areas a bit more local to me. In the meantime, until I next return, likely in a few weeks, may the start of 2024 treat you kindly. Make sure, wherever you are and whatever you're doing, you take time out to drink great beer and visit great pubs. Cheers!

Pub of the day: The Willow Tree. For nostalgic reasons, I really enjoyed coming back here.

Beer of the day: Brakspear Oxford Gold. Finding this on handpull and in great condition, was a very good start to the trip.

Biggest surprise: The Meadow Covert. After everything negative I'd heard about it, it's actually rather nice.