Browsing Belper

A week or so ago, having once again been blessed with a Friday off that also happened to be payday, I decided that the time was right for another solo trip, this time back into Derbyshire, an area that I have a considerable soft spot for. Taking advantage of the great early Autumn weather, I would be visiting a place that is renowned for having one of the best high streets in the East Midlands. Time would tell whether this also applied to its pubs. The stage was set for my trip to Belper.

Belper is a town and civil parish in the local government district of Amber Valley in Derbyshire, located about 7 miles (11 km) north of Derby on the River Derwent. As well as Belper itself, the parish also includes the village of Milford and the hamlets of Bargate, Blackbrook and Makeney. As of the 2011 Census, the parish had a population of 21,823. Originally a centre for the nail-making industry since Medieval times, Belper expanded during the early Industrial Revolution to become one of the first mill towns with the establishment of several textile mills; as such, it forms part of the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site. 

At the time of the Norman occupation, Belper was part of the land centred on Duffield held by the family of Henry de Ferrers. The Domesday Survey records a manor of "Bradley" which is thought to have stood in an area of town now known as the Coppice. At that time it was probably within the Forest of East Derbyshire which covered the whole of the county east of the Derwent. It was possibly appropriated by William de Ferrers, 4th Earl of Derby at some time after it was disafforested in 1225 and became part of Duffield Frith. 

The town's name is thought to be a corruption of Beaurepaire – meaning beautiful retreat – the name given to a hunting lodge, the first record of which being in a charter of 1231. This would have been the property of Edmund Crouchback, 1st Earl of Lancaster who died in 1296, the record of his estate mentioning "a capital mansion". The chapel built at that time still exists. Originally consecrated in 1250 as the Chapel of St Thomas, it was rededicated to St John during the reign of King Henry VIII. St John's Chapel is still in use today and is thought to be the oldest building still standing in Belper. 

The coal deposits of Derbyshire are frequently associated with ironstone within the clay substrate. Initially obtained from surface workings, it would later have been mined in shallow bell pits. It is thought that this was important for the de Ferrers family, who were ironmasters in Normandy. By the reign of Henry VIII Belper had grown to a substantial size. It is recorded that in 1609 fifty-one people died of plague. However, in a Parliamentary Commissioners' report of 1650 regarding Duffield and its chapelries, Belper is described as "a hamlet appertaining to Duffield". 

From at least the 13th century there were forges in the Belper and Duffield areas and iron-working became a major source of income, particularly nail making. By the end of the 18th century there were around 500 workshops in the town supplying nails to the newly built textile mills. The workshops were eventually superseded by machinery during the 19th century. Some of the nail-makers' houses are still in existence and form part of local tours of the town. 

The industrialist Jedediah Strutt, a partner of Richard Arkwright, built a water-powered cotton mill in Belper in the late 18th century: the second in the world at the time. With the expansion of the textile industry Belper became one of the first mill towns. In 1784 Strutt built the North Mill and, across the road, the West Mill. In 1803 the North Mill was burnt down and replaced by a new structure designed to be fireproof. Further extensions followed, culminating in the East Mill in 1913 – a present-day Belper landmark. Although no longer used to manufacture textiles the mill still derives electricity from the river, using turbine-driven generators.

Strutt had previously patented his "Derby Rib" for stockings, and the plentiful supply of cotton encouraged the trade of framework knitting which had been carried on in the town and surrounding villages since the middle of the previous century. Mechanisation arrived about 1850, but by that time the fashion for stockings for men was disappearing. However elaborately patterned stockings, for ladies especially, were coming into vogue, and the output of the Belper "cheveners" was much in demand.

The construction of the North Midland Railway in 1840 brought further prosperity. Belper was the first place in the UK to get gas lighting, at a works erected by the Strutts at Milford. Demand was such that in 1850, the Belper Gas and Coke Company was formed, with a works in the present Goods Road. Electricity followed in 1922 from the Derby and Nottingham Electrical Power Company's works at Spondon. The first telephones came in 1895 from the National Telephone Company. The end of the century also brought the motor car, CH218, owned by Mr. James Bakewell of the Elms being possibly the first.

Belper remained a textile and hosiery centre into the 20th century. Meanwhile, other companies were developing: iron founding led to Park Foundry becoming a leader in the solid-fuel central-heating market; Adshead and Ratcliffe had developed Arbolite putty for iron-framed windows; Dalton and Company, which had been producing lubricating oils, developed ways of recovering used engine oil proving useful during the Second World War. In 1938, A. B. Williamson had developed a substance for conditioning silk stockings; the introduction of nylon stockings after the Second World War seemed to make it redundant, but mechanics and fitters had discovered its usefulness in cleaning hands and it is still marketed by Deb Group as Swarfega. 

Something about the appearance and feel of Derbyshire mill towns has always made me feel welcome so I was filled with a feeling of excitement and anticipation as I arrived in Belper just after midday following a train journey of less than 45 minutes from Nottingham. It was time to dive in and see what the town had to offer. Leaving the train station, I made my way up a slope that leads to the rear of the nearby shopping precinct and, as I soon discovered, the rear of my first destination. Negotiating my way to the front entrance, the day's escapades began at The Railway.

Formerly known as The Railway Hotel, the pub has benefited from a recent high-quality refurbishment after being taken over by Hucknall based Lincoln Green brewery. The interior is light with areas of seating to either side of the door and opposite the bar, all with a comfortable feel and a mix of modern and traditional features. To the rear, there is access to an impressive, large garden with lots of picnic table style seating and old road signs mounted on a wall. The bar runs along one wall, facing into the main area of the pub and features 8 handpumps. This being a Lincoln Green pub, half the beers on offer are from their own range, namely Marion, Hood, Archer and Tuck. The remaining 4 feature guest beers, on this occasion being Timothy Taylor Knowle Spring, Theakston XB, Lincoln Green Strawbeeries & Cream (a seasonal) and Front Row Respect. I'm a fan of Lincoln Green's beers so I opted for the Archer (4%). This is a citrusy golden ale, brewed with American hops and rounded off by a moderately bitter finish. This was certainly a light and refreshing beer to start off a day that would involve lots of retracing of steps due to various differences in opening hours amongst the pubs on the itinerary. Having thoroughly enjoyed my first experience of Belper, it made sense to venture further in.

Leaving The Railway via the attractive garden, I made a left into a small road that runs between two rows of buildings, went through an archway and then emerged onto Bridge Street, part of the main A6 road that runs through the town. Turning right, I continued walking until my next destination emerged ahead of me. The second pub of the day would be The Rifleman's Arms.

This wooden slat fronted pub is now a freehouse that is owned and operated by the licensees. The interior is reasonably small but comfortable and well appointed. A snug is immediately to the right upon entry, featuring a mix of seating and a TV. The bar is roughly U-shaped and sits directly ahead as you enter, facing another seating area that consists of banquette seating and wooden tables and is overlooked by an impressive collection of wall clocks as well as a signed and framed England football shirt from the 1966 World Cup final. To the rear is another small seating area as well as access to the toilets. The bar features 4 handpulls, 3 of which are in use at the time. These feature Marston's Pedigree doubled up as well as Falstaff 3 Faze on the third. On this occasion, I decided on the Pedigree and I'm glad I did as it was kept very well and was very easy to drink, which I did so whilst sitting in the area that I christened the 'Clock Room' and listening to the landlady chat with a regular. The Rifleman's is very much a traditional locals pub and all the better for it. 

It was only a short walk to my next destination which is located further down Bridge Street and requires crossing the road, something which is a lot more difficult than it originally appears. Having successfully managed to get across with the help of a slow lorry I ventured to pub number 3, the George & Dragon.

This Grade II listed Georgian building is a former coaching inn with an attractive portico entrance, that is located not far from the town's famous East Mill. The interior is deep and open plan with a number of seating areas near the central, small, L-shaped bar. A couple of round tables with chairs are to the left of the entrance, a larger area with sofa style seating and a TV is to the right. This area leads to a spacious rear area with unusual airline style seating that was rescued from the old Derby Rugby Club. A side corridor leads to the toilets as well as the car park and a skittle alley. The pub is also dog friendly and has water bowls at canine height located throughout. Formerly just known as the George, this is a very picturesque and comfortable place to while away a few minutes, hours or days. Beer-wise it's not bad either. 7 handpulls are split into banks of 3 and 4. 5 of these are being used on the day I'm there, offering a choice between Bass, Abbot Ale, the house North Mill Bitter (brewed by Falstaff), Whim Ales Hartington IPA and Pentrich Lone Pine. It's been a considerable while since I encountered Whim Ales so it was only fair to break the drought. Hartington IPA (4.5%) is pale coloured and smooth on the palate with a predominant malt flavour. The slightly sweet finish combines well with distinctive light hop bitterness. I was very glad to have rediscovered this delicious beer and enjoyed it whilst watching coverage of the 2nd day of the final Ashes test which England would eventually win to draw the series, albeit without reclaiming the urn. After 3 pubs, this was certainly my favourite so far. The aesthetic and the atmosphere combine for a very homely feel, helped by the very jovial Geordie landlord. Joviality is certainly required here if stories are anything to go by. The landlord and his wife sought guidance from both mediums and paranormal investigators last year after a series of alarming events and poltergeist activity. Door handles have been rattled when there is known to be nobody on the other side, the presence of a child has been felt in and around the bar and the spirit of a lady who hanged herself in an upstairs room is believed to still reside. The landlord once observed a strange dot of white light moving around the bar before it disappeared out of the front entrance. His cat was knocked down and sadly died the following day on the road outside. Coincidence? Possibly, but connect all this with the medium who reported that the activity was linked to a long bricked up doorway and you can't help but wonder if something still lingers here. It's a cracking place nonetheless!

The retracing of steps would begin as I headed to the next pub. Leaving the George & Dragon, I turned right and headed back down Bridge Street, passing the Rifleman's Arms on the opposite side of the road. Situated slightly further on is The Devonshire.

This prominent food-led pub has recently reopened and benefited from renovation. Inside the pub is cosy with restaurant style seating to both front and rear as well as in a small snug off to one side. There is a split level area to the right and behind the entrance and a long corridor leads to the toilets and rear. The bar is relatively long and curves around one wall with a few smaller tables surrounding it. The walls feature a number of unusual decorative features include framed insects, pots and pans and a decorative swan sculpture with a metal crown. I was very pleased to see a bank of 6 handpulls located at the far end of the bar. These handpulls had one given over to cider in the form of Snails Bank Mango and the other 5 featured ales from both Marston's and Dancing Duck. The options here were Dancing Duck Dark Drake, Marston's Pedigree, Marston's 61 Deep, Dancing Duck Ay Up and Dancing Duck 22. At 4.3%, 22 is a delicious beer. This is a well balanced best bitter with a good malty flavour and notes of dark fruit that are offset by strong hop flavours and a clean finish. I consumed by beer sat at a high round table near to the other end of the bar where I unsuccessfully attempted to get the attention of a dog (Milo) in the adjacent restaurant area who looked a bit like an Ewok. 

My next location required a bit more of a walk. Walking further down Bridge Street until I reached the junction with King Street, I crossed over and made my way up King Street, passing the Railway again as I did so. Upon reaching the Market Place, I took a slight left onto the aptly named High Pavement where, after traversing a small hill, I reached the Nag's Head.

This Marston's pub consists of 2 large rooms, with a smaller third one to the rear, all clustered around a central bar. Seating is largely around the edges of the rooms and there are TVs and a jukebox predominating throughout. The bar is L-shaped and features 5 handpulls, 4 of which were in use at the time of my visit. One of these featured Rosie's Pig Cloudy Strawberry Cider with the other 3 optioning Pedigree, Ringwood Boondoggle and Ringwood Razor Back respectively. In terms of numbers, the Nag's Head was much busier than the pubs up to this point, likely due to it being Friday afternoon and there are several regulars chatting at the bar or keeping themselves to themselves on banquette seating in the lounge area. Taking the opportunity to grab a stool at the bar, I ordered the Boondoggle (4.2%), a golden coloured beer packed with zesty hop aromas and flavours. This is another clearly very community-oriented pub with lots of footfall among locals occupying as it does a prime location on the brow of a hill. There would be more hills yet to come!

Leaving the Nags Head, my journey took me the short distance downhill to the Market Place where the first of 3 micropubs in the town is located. Tucked away in a narrow corner is the Angels Micropub.
 

This Good Beer Guide listed pub is small and friendly to both humans and dogs. Entrance is into a corridor where the toilets are located and leads down into an almost chapel-like room with a vaulted ceiling and tables laid out across both parts of a split level arrangement. Beer is served on gravity here and a large serving hatch has views of a temperature controlled room beyond, where casks are stored. On the day in question, 8 beers are available along with a similar number of ciders and perries. The choice of beers is very interesting indeed and I'm faced with a choice between Falstaff 3 Faze, Lenton Lane 36 North, Oakham Citra, Thornbridge Kipling, Thornbridge Jaipur, Falstaff The Good, The Bad & The Drunk, Titanic Plum Porter and Titanic Cappuccino Stout. Regular readers will know of my love for Citra so it was an easy choice to make here. I chose to sit in the raised area of the split level with a table to myself. There were a handful of regulars and their canine companions in already and I was content to let conversation flow and observe from a distance. This is the epitome of a well-run, good quality micropub with great beer and a growing reputation. I was eager to see what the other 2 micropubs in the town had to offer but more on them later.

My next stop was a mere stone's throw away, across the Market Place. Leaving the Angels, it was no time at all before I was at the Black Swan.

This oddly shaped building occupies a curved plot of land on a slope that makes up part of the market place area. The pub is family run and has a distinct wine bar with a central space from which 3 rooms lead off. The bar sits at an angle in the back corner of the central area and is well stocked with gins, whiskies and champagne. It also features 3 handpumps. These offer a choice of Wychwood Hobgoblin Gold, Northdown Merry Margate and Kelham Island Best. As tempted as I was by the presence of Kelham Island, I decided instead to go for the Merry Margate (3.8%) brewed by Northdown in the Kent town for which the beer is named. I was unfamiliar with this brewery and research suggests that they're a relatively new arrival. The beer itself was excellent. Pale on the eye, with aromas reminiscent of marmalade and passionfruit, the flavour is light and hoppy with citrus coming through in droves. I thoroughly enjoyed it. The Black Swan is a rather nice place with an almost continental feel and a chilled out atmosphere.

It was back onto King Street for my next destination, at a pub I'd walked past on my way up the hill earlier. Attention now turned to the Green House.

Occupying property that lies above shops on the road below, the Green House is accessed up a short flight of steps from the pavement outside where the road rises up. A Stonegate property, the pub boasts a well-appointed outside area complete with dining tables and parasols and a large space inside with a mixture of standard scrubbed tables as well as booths which occupy one wall. The long bar runs almost the full length of the back wall and features 4 handpulls which offer a selection of beers from more mainstream breweries. On the day of my visit, the options were Wainwright, Sharp's Doom Bar, Abbot Ale and Hobgoblin Gold. It was Hobgoblin Gold for me this time and this was kept well enough. Whilst the range was fairly mediocre, the quality was very good which is half the struggle! The Green House allows for good views down the hill back into town and this made for good people watching territory whilst the beer went down. Soon though, I was headed back down the same hill and retracing my steps once more.

I now headed back to Bridge Street, almost to where the day had begun where I had identified a premises that would be a late addition to the itinerary. This was The Lion Hotel.

Recently renovated and now operated by JC Hotels, The Lion is a large, white-washed building on the main road. The central entrance opens into a foyer with hotel access to the left and the bar/restaurant area to the right. A central bar serves an area of traditional seating, with a small raised area in one corner. The separate restaurant space is to the rear but food is able to be eaten in the bar area. The bar's 5 handpulls are generally given over to beers from the Marston's stable but with the occasional guest also getting a look in. My quintet of choices ran thus: Ringwood Boondoggle, Pedigree, Hobgoblin Gold, Thornbridge Jaipur and Northdown He-Bru IPA. Having thoroughly enjoyed my first experience of Northdown beer, I wasn't going to pass up the 2nd so I went straight for the He-Bru IPA (4.9%). This is another cracking beer! In the style of an American IPA, it boasts big flavours of mango, pineapple and citrus. It's a definite winner and I'll definitely be paying close attention to Northdown in future. I'm thoroughly impressed with the 2 beers I've tried and even more impressed that a town in Derbyshire is serving beers from Kent!

There was more walking and more hills involved for the next leg of the trip. Leaving The Lion, I turned right and continued down Bridge Street before taking a right into Field Lane. Following this to the end, I then took a small footpath that runs alongside St. Peter's church. At the end of this path, I turned left onto Chesterfield Road which runs uphill. After passing a care home on the left, my next destination stood at a junction on a triangular plot that faces downhill. I had reached the Thorn Tree Inn.

Reopened last year under the ownership of a mother and daughter team, the Thorn Tree Inn has the prestige of being crowned winner of the 2019 Amber Valley CAMRA Winter Ale Trail. The interior is an homage to beer and has the feel of a traditional ale house about it. There is a lounge area to the front where the bar itself is located. A set of steps leads up to a rear snug where there is further seating. The walls and ceiling behind the bar are adorned with hundreds of pump clips representing all the beers served therein. The choice for the day is between 4 of the 5 available handpumps featuring Bass, Hardy & Hanson's Kimberley Bitter, Bad Seed Ground Patrol and Froth Blowers Hornswoggle. After some deliberation, and a handy taster, I went for the Ground Patrol (4.1%) from Malton based Bad Seed. This is a New Zealand style pale ale with lots of earthy, piney and citrus flavours. I'm a big fan of this style of beer and this is up there with the best I've tasted. The pub was quiet, having opened at 4pm, and I was able to have a conversation with the very helpful barmaid (one of the owners) who even allowed me a taster of the Hornswoggle to compare. Sadly, I didn't have time to fully enjoy both beers. I'm glad I made the effort to find the Thorn Tree. It's an excellent addition to the Belper beer scene without being too well known. A hidden gem indeed!

I left the Thorn Tree and headed back downhill, taking a side route that splits off from the road I was on. Following this and turning left takes you slightly back uphill where the next pub sits over the road. Next stop, The Grapes.

Another pub in the Marston's estate, The Grapes occupies a position on a hill, which provides excellent views of the town and surrounding countryside. The main entrance is accessed through an outdoor seating area, itself accessed by steps from the pavement. The bar occupies a small space in a larger lounge room and contains 4 handpulls, offering beers from the usual Marston's stable. On this occasion the options were Pedigree, Jennings Head Point, Courage Directors and Wainwright. Head Point seemed like a good choice so I went for this and then decided to sit in the substantial outside area to enjoy the sunshine. The beer is perfect for a sunny day. At 3.8% and brewed for the Rugby World Cup, it's a pale golden ale with a light, citrus finish. It's certainly easy to drink and goes down very well in the shadow of the pub's stonework and the 'weather stone' that hangs by the front door.

I had 2 pubs left to visit, both of them micros and both of them thankfully downhill. The first of these was not too far away. Making my way downhill, I turned left into Campbell Street where the next pub sits on the ground floor of a building that also contains the Strutt Club. I had now reached Arkwright's Real Ale Bar.

The second of Belper's Good Beer Guide listed pubs (at least in the 2019 edition), Arkwright's is named after the famous local mill owner. Consisting of a large single room, there is seating around the edge facing a fairly large bar that takes up most of one wall. The TV in the bar area is only used for special occasions with the toilets being located down a short corridor. The bar includes 6 handpulls with 5 of them in use and another being cleaned at the time I arrive. The choices here are certainly interesting and my option are Furnace Fun Sponge, Potton Nightspear, Black Iris Bajan Breakfast, Black Hole Supernova and Milestone Green Man. The name alone draws me to Nightspear (4.8%) from Bedfordshire's Potton Brewery. This is a black IPA which, although a controversial style in some circles, is a big hit if done well. This certainly ticks all the boxes. Citrus, pine and soft fruit hops combine with dark malts for lots of complex flavours. It's a New World beer with Old World style and I'm a big fan!

It's easy to see why Arkwright's and Angels have been honoured with inclusion in the Good Beer Guide. They are both cracking examples of micropubs done properly. It was now time to see if Belper's 3rd micropub was up to the same standard. Heading back down to King Street, I once again ended up on Bridge Street where the final pub of the day is located. My Derbyshire jaunt would conclude at Pump It Up.

Previously a butcher's and a cake shop (not at the same time), Belper's third micropub sits opposite the carved lion of the aforementioned Lion Hotel. There are 2 small rooms within, the largest is visible through the front window and features a corner bar and a couple of small tables. The smaller room is to the rear and a nearby passage leads to the unisex toilet. This is by far the smallest of the micros in the town and another good example of the micropub aesthetic. It's standing room only at the time of my arrival which gives me plenty of time to peruse the beer choices from amongst the 6 handpulls. All 6 of the available beers are more or less local which is impressive enough, as are the styles represented. My choices are Shiny Disco Balls, Amber Ales Wild Water, Littleover Hollow Legs, Amber Ales Barnes Wallis, Muirhouse Magnum Mild and Black Iris Snake Eyes. After a few moments to make my decision, I finally opted for Hollow Legs (5.2%) from Littleover. This is a full-bodied traditional pale with a heady aroma, a fruity mouthfeel with a nice malty balance and a delicate, fresh finish. I enjoyed it leaning on the bar and listening to the handful of regulars discussing football and the like. I also made friends with a very nice Staffie who seemed to enjoy the pub just as much as the human contingent. 

And with that it was time to depart. My short walk back to the station was filled with reminiscences of the day, the pubs I'd visited and the beers I'd drank. It had certainly been an interesting day with lots of positives. Belper's micropubs are excellent! All very different but all dedicated to doing what they do with passion and aplomb. I was thoroughly impressed with the pubs I'd found. The ones that I'd expected to be good were matched with the ones that took me by surprise (in particular, the George & Dragon, Devonshire and especially the Thorn Tree). The beer range was good in most and the quality decent in almost all. This has no doubt contributed to the continued praise heaped upon Belper's high street which appears to be thriving in what are trying economic times. They should be celebrated for holding the fort. Make no mistake, Belper is a belter!

A Look-In on Lincoln

Greetings! It gives me great pleasure to be able to update things once again with details of a long awaited venture out to a place that's not too far from home at all. Last weekend, with the virtue of a free Saturday for both myself and Amy, we took the opportunity to head east to the city of Lincoln, a place long earmarked as deserving of a visit both for its historical qualities as well as its alcoholic ones. This gave us the chance to finally complete the quartet of East Midlands cities and also spend some time together as a couple which doesn't often happen as much as we would like. The plan for the day would take us across the city to lots of interesting and historic pubs where great beer could be enjoyed. And what a day it would turn out to be!

Lincoln is a cathedral city and county town of Lincolnshire. The non-metropolitan district of Lincoln had a 2012 population of 94,600. The 2011 census gave the urban area of Lincoln, which includes North Hykeham and Waddington, a population of 130,200. Roman Lindum Colonia developed from an Iron Age settlement on the River Witham. The city's landmarks include Lincoln Cathedral, an example of English Gothic architecture and the tallest building in the world for over 200 years, and the 11th-century, Norman Lincoln Castle. The city is home to the University of Lincoln and Bishop Grosseteste University, and to Lincoln City FC and Lincoln United FC. 

The earliest origins of Lincoln can be traced to the remains of an Iron Age settlement of round wooden dwellings (which were discovered by archaeologists in 1972) that have been dated to the 1st century BC. This settlement was built by a deep pool (the modern Brayford Pool) in the River Witham at the foot of a large hill (on which the Normans later built Lincoln Cathedral and Lincoln Castle). The origins of the name Lincoln may come from this period, when the settlement is thought to have been named in the Brythonic language of Iron Age Britain's Celtic inhabitants as Lindon 'The Pool', presumably referring to Brayford Pool (compare the etymology of the name Dublin, from the Gaelic dubh linn 'black pool'). The extent of this original settlement is unknown as its remains are now buried deep beneath the later Roman and medieval ruins and modern Lincoln.

The Romans conquered this part of Britain in AD 48 and shortly afterwards built a legionary fortress high on a hill overlooking the natural lake formed by the widening of the River Witham (the modern day Brayford Pool) and at the northern end of the Fosse Way Roman road (A46). The Celtic name Lindon was subsequently Latinised to Lindum and given the title Colonia

when it was converted into a settlement for army veterans. The conversion to a colonia was made when the legion moved on to York (Eboracum) in AD 71. Lindum colonia or more fully, Colonia Domitiana Lindensium, after the Emperor Domitian who ruled at the time, was established within the walls of the hilltop fortress with the addition of an extension of about equal area, down the hillside to the waterside below.

It became a major flourishing settlement, accessible from the sea both through the River Trent and through the River Witham. On the basis of the patently corrupt list of British bishops who attended the 314 Council of Arles, the city is now often considered to have been the capital of the province of Flavia Caesariensis which was formed during the late-3rd century Diocletian Reforms. Subsequently, however, the town and its waterways fell into decline. By the close of the 5th century the city was largely deserted, although some occupation continued under a Praefectus Civitatis, for Saint Paulinus visited a man of this office in Lincoln in AD 629.

During this period the Latin name Lindum Colonia was shortened in Old English to become first Lindocolina, then Lincylene. 

After the first destructive Viking raids, the city once again rose to some importance, with overseas trading connections. In Viking times Lincoln was a trading centre that issued coins from its own mint, by far the most important in Lincolnshire and by the end of the 10th century, comparable in output to the mint at York. After the establishment of the Danelaw in 886, Lincoln became one of the Five Boroughs in the East Midlands. Excavations at Flaxengate reveal that this area, deserted since Roman times, received new timber-framed buildings fronting a new street system in about 900. Lincoln experienced an unprecedented explosion in its economy with the settlement of the Danes. Like York, the Upper City seems to have been given over to purely administrative functions up to 850 or so, while the Lower City, running down the hill towards the River Witham, may have been largely deserted. By 950, however, the banks of the Witham were newly developed with the Lower City being resettled and the suburb of Wigford quickly emerging as a major trading centre. In 1068, two years after the Norman conquest, William I ordered Lincoln Castle to be built on the site of the former Roman settlement, for the same strategic reasons and controlling the same road.

Construction of the first Lincoln Cathedral, within its close or walled precinct facing the castle, began when the see was removed from the quiet backwater of Dorchester-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, and was completed in 1092; it was rebuilt after a fire but was destroyed by an unusual earthquake in 1185. The rebuilt Lincoln Minster, enlarged to the east at each rebuilding, was on a magnificent scale, its crossing tower crowned by a spire reputed to have been 525 ft (160 m) high, the highest in Europe. When completed the central of the three spires is widely accepted to have succeeded the Great Pyramids of Egypt as the tallest man-made structure in the world. The Bishops of Lincoln were among the magnates of medieval England: the Diocese of Lincoln, the largest in England, had more monasteries than the rest of England put together, and the diocese was supported by large estates. When Magna Carta was drawn up in 1215, one of the witnesses was Hugh of Wells, Bishop of Lincoln. One of only four surviving originals of the document is preserved in Lincoln Castle. Among the most famous bishops of Lincoln were Robert Bloet, the magnificent justiciar to Henry I, Hugh of Avalon, the cathedral builder canonised as St Hugh of Lincoln, Robert Grosseteste, the 13th century intellectual, Henry Beaufort, chancellor of Henry V and Henry VI, Thomas Rotherham, a politician deeply involved in the Wars of the Roses, Philip Repyngdon, chaplain to Henry IV and defender of Wycliffe, and Thomas Wolsey, the lord chancellor of Henry VIII. Theologian William de Montibus was the head of the cathedral school and chancellor until his death in 1213. The administrative centre was the Bishop's Palace, the third element in the central complex. When it was built in the late 12th century, the Bishop's Palace was one of the most important buildings in England. Built by Hugh of Lincoln, its East Hall range over a vaulted under-croft is the earliest surviving example of a roofed domestic hall. The chapel range and entrance tower were built by Bishop William of Alnwick, who modernised the palace in the 1430s. Both Henry VIII and James I were guests of bishops here; the palace was sacked by royalist troops during the civil war in 1648. 

During the Anarchy, in 1141 Lincoln was the site of a battle between King Stephen and the forces of Empress Matilda, led by her illegitimate half-brother Robert, 1st Earl of Gloucester. After fierce fighting in the city's streets, S

tephen's forces were defeated. Stephen himself was captured and taken to Bristol.

By 1150, Lincoln was among the wealthiest towns in England. The basis of the economy was cloth and wool, exported to Flanders; Lincoln weavers had set up a guild in 1130 to produce Lincoln Cloth, especially the fine dyed 'scarlet' and 'green', the reputation of which was later enhanced by Robin Hood wearing woollens of Lincoln green. In the Guildhall that surmounts the city gate called the Stonebow, the ancient Council Chamber contains Lincoln's civic insignia, a particularly fine collection of civic regalia.

Outside the precincts of cathedral and castle, the old quarter clustered around the Bailgate, and down Steep Hill to the High Bridge, which bears half-timbered housing, with the upper storeys jutting out over the river. There are three ancient churches: St Mary le Wigford and St Peter at Gowts are both 11th century in origin and St Mary Magdalene, built in the late 13th century, is an unusual English dedication to the saint, whose cult was coming greatly into vogue on the European continent at that time. Lincoln was home to one of the five most important Jewish communities in England, well established before it was officially noted in 1154. In 1190, anti-Semitic riots that started in King's Lynn, Norfolk, spread to Lincoln; the Jewish community took refuge with royal officials, but their habitations were plundered. The so-called House of Aaron has a two-storey street frontage that is essentially 12th century and a nearby Jew's House likewise bears witness to the Jewish population. In 1255, the affair called 'The Libel of Lincoln' in which prominent Jews of Lincoln, accused of the ritual murder of a Christian boy ('Little Saint Hugh of Lincoln' in medieval folklore) were sent to the Tower of London and 18 were executed. The Jews were expelled en masse in 1290.

During the 13th century, Lincoln was the third largest city in England and was a favourite of more than one king. During the First Barons' War, it became caught up in the strife between the king and the rebel barons, who had allied with the French. It was here and at Dover that the French and Rebel army was defeated. In the aftermath of the battle, the town was pillaged for having sided with Prince Louis. In 1266, during the Second Barons' War, the disinherited rebels attacked the Jews of Lincoln, ransacked the synagogue, and burned the records which registered debts. 

According to some historians, the city's fortunes began to decline during the 14th century, although this assertion has been disputed, it being argued that the city remained buoyant in both trade and communications well into the 15th century. Thus in 1409, the city was made a county in its own right known as the County of the City of Lincoln. Thereafter, various additional rights being conferred on the town by successive monarchs, including those of an assay town (which controlled metal manufacturing, for example). The oldest surviving secular drama in English, The Interlude of the Student and the Girl (c. 1300), may have originated from Lincoln.

Lincoln's coat of arms, not officially endorsed by the College of Arms, is believed to date from the 14th century. It is Argent on a cross gules a fleur-de-lis or. The cross is believed to be derived from the Diocese of Lincoln, and the fleur-de-lis is the symbol of the Virgin Mary, to whom the cathedral is dedicated. The motto is CIVITAS LINCOLNIA (Latin for City of Lincoln).

The Dissolution of the Monasteries exacerbated Lincoln's problems, cutting off its main source of diocesan income and drying up the network of patronage controlled by the bishop, with no fewer than seven monasteries closed within the city alone. A number of nearby abbeys were also closed, which led to further diminution of the region's political power. When the cathedral's great spire rotted and collapsed in 1549 and was not replaced, it was a significant symbol of Lincoln's economic and political decline. However, the comparative poverty of post-medieval Lincoln preserved pre-medieval structures that would probably have been lost under more prosperous conditions. 

Between 1642 and 1651, during the English Civil War, Lincoln was on the frontier between the Royalist and Parliamentary forces and changed hands several times. Many buildings were badly damaged. Lincoln now had no major industry and no easy access to the sea and was poorly situated. Thus while the rest of the country was beginning to prosper at the beginning of the 18th century, Lincoln suffered immensely, travellers often commenting on the state of what had essentially become a one-street town.

By the Georgian era, Lincoln's fortunes began to pick up, thanks in part to the Agricultural Revolution. The re-opening of the Foss Dyke canal allowed coal and other raw materials vital to industry to be more easily brought into the city. As well as the economic growth of Lincoln during this era, the city boundaries expanded to include the West Common. To this day, an annual Beat the Boundaries walk takes place along the perimeter of the common. 

Coupled with the arrival of the railway links, Lincoln boomed again during the Industrial Revolution, and several world-famous companies arose, such as Ruston's, Clayton's, Proctor's and William Foster's. Lincoln began to excel in heavy engineering, building locomotives, steam shovels and all manner of heavy machinery. A permanent military presence was established in the city with the completion of the "Old Barracks" (now occupied by the Museum of Lincolnshire Life) in 1857; these were replaced by the "New Barracks" (now Sobraon Barracks) in 1890. Lincoln Drill Hall in Broadgate also opened in 1890.

Lincoln was hit by a major typhoid epidemic between November 1904 and August 1905 caused by polluted drinking water from Hartsholme Lake and the River Witham. Over 1,000 people contracted the disease and fatalities totalled 131, including the man responsible for the city's water supply, Liam Kirk of Baker Crescent. Near the beginning of the epidemic, Dr. Alexander Cruickshank Houston installed a chlorine disinfection system just ahead of the poorly operating slow sand filter to kill the bacteria causing the epidemic. Chlorination of the water supply continued until 1911 when a new water supply was implemented. The Lincoln chlorination episode was one of the first uses of the chemical to disinfect a water supply. Westgate Water Tower was constructed to provide new water supplies to the city. 

In the two world wars, Lincoln switched to war production. The first ever tanks were invented, designed and built in Lincoln by William Foster & Co. during the First World War and population growth provided more workers for even greater expansion. The tanks were tested on land now covered by Tritton Road (in the south-west suburbs of the city). During the Second World War, Lincoln produced a vast array of war goods, from tanks, aircraft, munitions and military vehicles.

Lincoln lies 157 mi (253 km) north of London by road, at a height of 67 ft (20.4 m) above sea level by the River Witham, stretching to 246 ft (75.0 m) above sea level around the cathedral. It occupies a gap in the Lincoln Cliff (an escarpment that runs north and south through Lindsey and Kesteven, in central Lincolnshire and reaches an altitude of 200 feet (61 metres)). The city is also 76 miles (123 km) north-east of Birmingham, 32 miles (51 km) north-east of Nottingham, 47 miles (76 km) north of Peterborough and 40 miles (64 km) east south-east of Sheffield. The city lies on the River Witham, which flows through this gap. Lincoln is thus divided informally into two zones, known unofficially as uphill and downhill. The uphill area comprises the northern part of the city, on top of the Lincoln Cliff (to the north of the gap). This area includes the historical quarter, including Lincoln Cathedral, Lincoln Castle and the Medieval Bishop's Palace, known locally as The Bail (although described in tourist promotional literature as the Cathedral Quarter). It includes residential suburbs to the north and north-east. The downhill area comprises the city centre (located in the gap) and the suburbs to the south and south-west. The aptly named Steep Hill is a narrow, pedestrian street connecting the two (too steep for vehicular traffic). It passes through an archway known as the Stonebow. This divide, peculiar to Lincoln, was once an important class distinction, with uphill more affluent and downhill less so. The distinction dates from the time of the Norman conquest, when the religious and military elite occupied the hilltop. The construction and expansion of suburbs in both parts of the city since the mid-19th century has diluted the distinction, but uphill housing continues to fetch a premium.

As can be seen from the above, Lincoln is a very old and very historic city which has endured all manner of triumphs and tragedies throughout the centuries. What such triumphs and tragedies would be awaiting us on an unsettled August Saturday? The time had come to dive in and find out!

We arrived in Lincoln by train just before 11.30am after a journey of less than an hour and immediately set about getting our bearings. Our route would take this through the quieter outskirts before climbing to the cathedral area and back down again on the return journey to bring us back to where we began. Making our way out of the station we headed into a nearby shopping complex which straddles the River Witham. Crossing the river over a small bridge, we located our first stop of the day, sitting almost on the river itself with restaurants and shops behind. Our adventure began at the Witch & Wardrobe.

Believed to be amongst the oldest buildings still standing in Lincoln today, the building that is now the Witch & Wardrobe was initially built in the 13th century. The original 13th century walls are still extant inside the pub with a 15th century exterior built around the original shell. During the time of this extension, a tomb was buried in the west external wall. This can still be seen, in the form of a triangular lid on a square base, opposite the loading bay of the nearby shopping centre. The building itself is believed to have once been 2 of a row of 3 terraced houses. In the 19th century, the first house, which constitutes the half of the pub from the left side to the front door, was a fishmongers and the second house was a hairdressers. The third house in the row was located beside the pub, where a restaurant now stands. Throughout it's history the building has been a trading post, a gentlemen's retreat and also a bakery and was a highly popular chip shop for many years until 1979. It has also revealed more of its secrets. During 1970s renovation work, an original 17th century wooden spiral staircase was discovered behind false walls. This is now situated at the west side of the bar. Also discovered was a so-called 'Bull's Eye', a small, coloured glass window which would have been part of the original external wall. This is also still in place and can be seen to the right hand side of the bar. For over 30 years, the pub has operated under its current name and was originally a Mansfield Brewery pub before they were bought out by Wolverhampton and Dudley Breweries (subsequently known as Marston's) in 2000. 

Inside, the age of the building can be clearly seen. A central doorway leads directly to the bar which is divided by pillars that separate the interior into sections. To the left is a room with a TV and seating and to the right, another room with banquette seating, a pool table and another television. To the rear of the main area are further seating areas. The central L-shaped bar serves all of the available sides. In a small section of the bar, between two pillars sits a bank of handpulls, 5 in total. All of them are in use at the time of our visit and offer a choice of Pedigree, Bombardier, the house Witches Brew (brewed by Ringwood), Mansfield Bitter and Courage Director's. I opted to start the day with Bombardier whilst Amy decided on the Witches Brew. The Bombardier hit the spot after our travels and was kept very nicely. Amy agreed that the Witches Brew was very good as well. We enjoyed our drinks in the larger of the two side areas, near the pool table and enjoyed the overheard conversations of the locals. Whilst the pub was quiet at the time, it's easy to see how it could get quite busy, especially given the accessibility of its picturesque location. It's obviously a very old as can be seen from the original brickwork that has been left exposed on some of the walls. If tales are to be believed, these are not the only shadows of the past that remain. More ethereal things are going on. Beer pumps have been known to turn on when nobody is near them, ice has been thrown around and disembodied voices are often heard. A paranormal investigation team in 2010 captured an unknown voice on their audio equipment. Explanations for this activity come in the form of an elderly lady, a former owner of the building, who is believed to have broken her neck falling down the aforementioned spiral staircase and has been seen in spirit form on more than one occasion. There is also evidence that the building may once have been a mortuary for children which perhaps connects to the tomb found on the premises. The childlike nature of some of the alleged poltergeist activity may lend some truth to this!

Back in the world of the living it was time for us to head on to our next destination, which was much closer than I initially thought which led to us arriving a few minutes before opening time. Soon however, we were welcomed into The Jolly Brewer.

Listed in the Good Beer Guide, this Art Deco style pub is situated at the foot of Lindum Hill. Inside, the décor is quirky with colourful bar tables, portraits of famous musicians by local artists and a side room that features reclaimed cinema seating. There is an extension to the rear which features the toilets and a large rear garden that includes a stage for live bands as well as reclaimed traffic lights on one wall (sadly not in use). A jukebox plays most of the time and, not long after we arrived, began playing Alkaline Trio, one of my favourite bands. The bar is long and runs almost the length of one wall. 6 handpumps feature, with 5 in use on the day, offering a choice of Welbeck Abbey Henrietta, VoG Lady Liberty, Milestone Black Pearl, Horncastle Virgil's Journey and Black Hole Supernova. After a moment's deliberation, I decided on the Lady Liberty (4.8%) from Barry-based Vale of Glamorgan brewery. This is an American style pale ale packed with Simcoe and Mosaic and dry-hopped with Citra for big citrus and tropical flavours. It's a cracking beer and I'm glad I selected it. Amy opted for cider on this occasion and I have it on authority that that was delicious too! We began sitting on the reclaimed cinema seating but then decided to enjoy the outside space whilst it was dry outside. This is an absolute belter of a pub and we were both very pleased that we'd put on the day's itinerary, However, in amongst the triumph, a full blown tragedy. The pub is closing! Due to the lease expiring with nobody to carry it on, it is on the market. No buyer has yet come forward which means, by the time you read this, the doors at The Jolly Brewer may well have closed. It needs saving. This is clearly an absolute disaster for the pub specifically and for Lincoln's drinking scene in general. Too many good pubs have already fallen by the wayside and it needs to stop. To lose a pub like this is not just a tragedy, it's almost a crime. If nothing can be done and this truly is the end than I'm at least glad I managed to get to this place. If only I'd gotten there sooner so it wasn't the only chance I'd get. 

Crestfallen at having to leave such a wonderful place, especially if it's the only time we'll ever get to go, we set to lift our spirits by making our way to the next pub. This meant ascending Lindum Hill to the summit, something which didn't take anything like as long as predicted. At the top of said hill lay our reward, the Adam & Eve Tavern.

One of many pubs to lay claim to being Lincoln's oldest, the Adam & Eve  dates back to the 1700s and may even have been built on top of an earlier site that was used to house masons working on the nearby cathedral. Formerly known as the Angel, its present name was a very popular one for taverns at the time of its construction. Its old world charm remains with thick walls and low beams throughout. The bar occupies a wall of the main room and interior has been opened out but still retains a number of smaller rooms, separated by supporting walls. The pub is Good Beer Guide listed and features 5 handpumps on the bar, with one given over to Lilley's Mango Cider. The remaining 4 provide the choice of Castle Rock Harvest Pale, Morland Old Speckled Hen, Wadworth Horizon and Timothy Taylor Landlord. I've enjoyed Horizon before, most notably in Wiltshire with Matt so this seemed like a fitting choice here and so it proved. With Amy again opting for cider we rewarded our efforts in braving the hill by enjoying our drinks in the outside area to the rear, which is occupied by picnic style tables and accessed up a flight of steps. The steps also host what appears to be the original pub sign showing Adam, Eve and an angelic figure. The sign has been nailed to a wall at the bottom of the steps and is mildly disconcerting at first glance. Perhaps predictably for a pub of its age, the Adam & Eve also has many a ghost story attached to it. A man in a priest's cassock has been seen sitting at a table in one of the rooms reading a large book before disappearing. The sounds of marching troops has been heard from the hill outside the pub but closer inspection reveals no sign of anyone. The most compelling (read distressing) apparition is that of a severed head seen rolling from the archway that stands across the road from the pub. The origin of this remains unexplained, as perhaps it should. This is a suitably atmospheric place for a beverage! Speaking of which, the beer was excellent! Horizon (4%) is a golden ale brewed with both classic and New World hops which combine for zesty, citrus aromas and a tangy finish on the palate. 

Once again it was soon time to move on but, at least for now, we had beaten the hill. Continuing along the road which has now become Wragby Road, we walked for a few more minutes before we spotted our next location over the road on our left at a junction. Our attentions now turned to the Peacock Inn.

Prominently situated, this round fronted Greene King property has been extended into adjacent houses. Inside, the main bar is small but cosy with the bar on the rear wall and banquette seating around the interior walls. A supporting wall at one end divides the drinking area from a large, long restaurant space at the rear. Two TVs feature on the walls, showing 2 different football matches whilst we're there. 3 of the 5 available hand pumps are in use with the choices of Greene King IPA, Morland Old Golden Hen and Ruddles County. I genuinely wasn't sure I'd had County before so that made my decision easy. At 4.3% it's a traditional English amber ale brewed with Goldings, Challenger and Bramling Cross hops for aromas of soft fruit and blackcurrant. There's a robust bitterness and is balanced nicely with sweetness from the use of 2 different malts. All in all, it's a pleasant surprise, especially when a very cute Rottweiler turns up! The Peacock is the busiest pub we've visited up to this point but with it being lunchtime and the bar area being small, it's not difficult to fill the place. The next few pubs on the list would certainly be busier than the ones up to this point, due to being more centrally located around the cathedral and the historic areas of the city.

Moving on from the Peacock we made our way along Greetwell Gate which runs parallel to the front door. Passing the nearby Morning Star and the impressive cathedral we eventually reached Bailgate, where we turned right to find our next stop a very short distance away. Our wanderings had delivered us to the Lion & Snake. 

This large, comfortable Marston's pub is partly timber-framed, Grade II listed and claims to be the oldest pub in the city. Records suggest that the property has been licensed for 600 years and it is located at what would once have been the centre of an old Roman colony. The name changed a few times from 1649 when it was known as the Ram, before becoming respectively the Earl of Scarborough's Arms and the Red Lion & Snake. The present name has been in use since 1834. The pub benefits from its central location between the cathedral, Lincoln Castle and a Roman arch. Underground passageways have been discovered throughout the area and ancient city columns are still visible outside the pub as are the remains of an old Roman well. Inside, the large bar sits along one wall with seating at other side and directly opposite. The pub is very busy when we arrive but it doesn't take us long to get served and it's only a matter of time before we've perused the selection. 5 handpumps are present here featuring, as you'd expect, beers from the Marston range namely Marston's Saddle Tank, Wychwood Hobgoblin Gold, Marston's EPA, Lancaster Bomber and Jennings Sneck Lifter. I went this time for the Lancaster Bomber, Amy went for a cider and we decided to once again enjoy a drink outside. The rear courtyard area features several picnic style benches, most with parasols, which is handy given that it started to rain shortly after we sat down. The rear itself is quite large and back onto the beer garden of the Prince of Wales Inn next door. The Lancaster Bomber was in very good condition and proved to be a good choice. This is yet another Lincoln pub where history oozes from the fabric. Some of it remains too if alleged ghostly tales are to be believed. A ghostly Roman soldier has been seen in the cellar on multiple occasions and the ghost of a dishevelled elderly man drinking a pint of beer has been spotted in the bar area before vanishing when approached. The most well known apparition is known as 'Granny with the bun'. She is described as an elderly lady with a 1920s style hairstyle and has been known to push past people in corridors but she is accepted as being generally harmless. As well as the ghost stories, the name of the pub is also interesting. It is believed to have resulted from when a new landlord took over in the 18th century. A common practice at the time amongst landlords was to combine the name of their old pub with their new one and that may be what happened here. 

I was very excited about our next destination. Luckily it wasn't far away. Leaving the Lion & Snake, we made our way over the road and, via Greggs, headed down Westgate at the end of which stood our next destination on the left. Introducing, The Strugglers Inn.

Located at the base of the castle walls, this small and very popular pub is known locally as the Struggs. The unusual name and the accompanying sign apparently stems from the fact that a former landlord was a notorious hangman. Inside the pub is small with a central bar area surrounded by tables and bench seating. A small, comfortable snug is to the right of the entrance decorated like a cosy living room complete with old photos and a full bookshelf. To the rear of the pub is a sunken terrace with brightly coloured furniture and a covered smoking shelter. A small doorway off from the bar leads to the toilets. The Strugglers is Good Beer Guide listed, has won many awards and was recently crowned local Pub of the Year for 2019. The interior has been identified by CAMRA as been of regional historic importance and, to continue the truly historic theme, payment is by cash only. The Strugglers was already my favourite pub of the day before we'd even sat down. A full complement of 10 handpulls stood before us on the bar offering an awful lot of choice. On the day our options were: Timothy Taylor Knowle Spring, Greene King Abbot Ale, St. Austell Tribute, Wold Top Wold Gold, Oakham JHB, Ossett Excelsior, Ashover Zoo, Titanic Plum Porter and Acorn Gorlovka. Once my brain snapped out of its wonderment, I selected the Excelsior whilst Amy went for Aspall's. We took a seat directly opposite the bar where we were welcomed by two Dalmatians belong to another customer. The sheer myriad of awards won by this place speak volumes. As do the hundreds of pump clips that cover the ceilings, walls and more or less every vertical surface. This place is amazing and everybody should stop what they're doing and go there right now. Maybe let them know first. There's not much room. What of the beer? Excelsior (5.2%) is a classic pale ale brewed with pale malt and American hops. It's smooth, fruity and full bodied with a refreshing citrus hop aroma and a deceptive bitterness. It's definitely easier to drink than its ABV would suggest! No old pub is complete without a ghost and there's one too, although this is one is distinctly inhuman. A dog, believed to belong to a former customer who was hanged for murder, has been seen sitting by the bar where he briefly howls before disappearing. Occasionally, scratching and whining sounds are heard to indicate the phantom canine's presence. His refusal to leave the pub is allegedly due to him being kept in the pub when he was stuffed post mortem. It seems he is forever waiting for his owner to return. I'm not crying, you're crying. 

It really was a struggle to leave this pub but we were only halfway through the day so now we retraced our steps, heading back to Bailgate before turning right and making our way to the top of the incredibly aptly named Steep Hill were our next pubs was located. Next up, the Magna Carta.

Named after the 13th century historical document (one of only 4 copies of which is preserved at the nearby castle), the pub is in a prime position in the shadow of the cathedral. Inside, the interior is split level with the main bar area on the ground floor and additional seating on the floors above and below. The long bar takes up the entire portion of the rear wall and is equipped with 5 handpumps, 4 of which were in use on the day. The options here were Pheasantry BB alongside Bombardier, Pedigree and Hobgoblin. Amy and I matched up our choices here, both of us going for Hobgoblin before we made our way to a table that we'd located in the downstairs room. This is a very pleasant pub with attractive décor and artefacts. Our arrival here couldn't have been better timed as the heavens well and truly opened shortly afterwards which led to a mass influx of people trying to get out of the rain and finding a shortage of available seating. The room in which we sat was almost a perfect square containing four or five tables all of which were occupied with a mix of drinkers and diners. It was certainly a pleasant spot to enjoy a very well kept drop of Hobgoblin. Our departure from here was also well timed. Not only had the rain significantly lessened but a stag do had just entered the building dressed as golfers.

Our next stop was only a few doors away, slightly further down the hill on the opposite side. We had now arrived at the Wig & Mitre.

Occupying buildings that have been in use since the 14th century, the Wig & Mitre is a privately owned freehouse with a TARDIS-like interior. The narrow frontage leads through into a lounge-like room with tables for drinkers. A narrow doorway leads through to the bar with further seating up a small flight of stairs behind. A staircase at both ends of the building leads to a first floor restaurant. Decor throughout has lots of character with items like decorative plates and the furniture is a mix of traditional tables and smart sofas. The small bar sits between the 2 ground floor rooms next to the kitchen area and features a bank of 4 handpumps. On this occasion our options were between Black Sheep Bitter, Ferry Ales Just Jane, Oakham Citra and Sharp's Doom Bar. With Citra being one of my favourite beers, I didn't need much time at all to make my choice. Amy switched back to cider with Aspall's being available on draught. We took a seat at a small table in the main room to the front. The Citra was absolutely spot on which made me very happy. This is a cracking little place. I hadn't known what to expect from it but it was well worth the visit and any worries I might have had about it soon evaporated. It felt like my beer had evaporated too but there would be plenty of that available at the next pub.

Reaching our next stop meant navigating Steep Hill. The advantage of this was that we were at least going down it after a few beers instead of up. The downside was that, in case it wasn't obvious, the hill is much more treacherous when it's been raining. I almost learned this to my cost when my Converse parted from the wet cobbles and I very nearly fell on my arse. Thankfully I managed to panic correct without any lasting damage. I like to think I styled it out. Having successfully made our way down the hill, it wasn't hard to spot our next destination which sat almost directly in front of us. It was time for the Cardinal's Hat.

Another Good Beer Guide listed pub, this timber-framed building dates from the 15th century and was an inn from 1521 until around 1800. Reputedly named after Cardinal Wolsey who was Bishop of Lincoln 1514-1515, is was sympathetically restored by St. John Ambulance in 1952-53. The recent conversion to its present state was sensitive to the buildings age and original features, several of which remain throughout. Inside, there are a number of distinct areas. The bar is roughly central with seating opposite and at the edges. An area to one side contains further seating and there lots of little nooks and crannies and quieter areas. There is a small outside seating area with metal tables and chairs complementing the outside aesthetic. The whole feel of the place is like stepping back in time with plenty of windows to watch the world go by. The bar is very well appointed with an impressive 12 hand pumps, divided into 3 banks of 4. 8 of these are for ales with 4 more for cider so there is a considerable amount of choice. The options on the day were Lincolnshire Craft Beers Lincoln Gold, Adnams Mosaic, Rat White Rat, the house Cardinal's Ale (brewed by Lincolnshire Craft Beers), Brewster's Krafty Kiwi, Green Duck Blush, Kirkstall Three Swords and Atom Dark Matter. The cider choices were Orchard Pig Chilli & Ginger, Lilley's Lemon & Lime, Snails Bank Raspberry Ripple and Westons Old Rosie. After much debating, I finally decided on the Blush (4.5%) from Stourbridge's Green Duck Brewery. Amy chose a cider and we headed outside where the downpour had abated and the sun was out. The beer was delicious. Blush is a dual hopped New Zealand pale ale with floral and lime aromas and a zesty finish. The trip down the hill was certainly worth it to find this place! 

There was slightly more walking involved in order to find our next location. Heading away from the historic part of Lincoln, we took a route into a more residential area via Hungate and Newland Street West, almost at the end of which can be found the West End Tap.

Formerly known as The Vine, this corner pub has recently reopened with a new name and new ownership after an extensive refurbishment. Very much a community pub, the feel inside is a relaxed one with an open plan layout and booth style seating opposite a rectangular bar. There is an enclosed garden space that acts as a suntrap and also leads to the toilets which are in an adjoining annex. The bar itself features 6 hand pumps. At the time of our visit, 5 were in use proffering 3 ales and 2 ciders in the form of Timothy Taylor Knowle Spring, Morland Best, Thornbridge Jaipur, Lilley's Rhubarb and Lilley's Mango. I went straight for the Jaipur and Amy on this occasion opted for Hoegarden before we realised too late that Aspall's was available. We took a seat in one of the booths, near to where a set of decks had been set up in preparation for a reggae night later on. The Jaipur was in good form and I'm glad I chose it. I hadn't had it for a while but it seemed like an appropriate time of day for a 5.9% beer. As much as the pub felt relaxed it was also a bit of an odd one. It was strangely quiet for a Saturday afternoon but this could perhaps have been due largely to its residential location. At the very least, the beer was good and that's what counts.

More retracing of our steps was required for the next pub. Leaving the West End Tap, we walked back the way we had came but then took the next right. This led us to a main road which culminated in a busy traffic junction on the other side of which is the Horse & Groom.

Situated adjacent to Brayford Pool and the A57 entry into the city, the Horse & Groom has benefited from a refurbishment in a modern and relaxed style. Inside, an L shaped bar sits against the wall with seating in front and around to rear, where a restaurant area sits adjacent to the kitchen. Entry to the pub is through a door that leads out to the car park or through a more central entrance accessed through the beer garden. Dividing walls break the interior space up into smaller sections giving the place a rather homely feel. 4 handpulls sit on the bar and half of these were available to choose between, the options being Navigation Strawberry Creamhead and Doom Bar. No prizes for guessing which option I went for. The Strawberry Creamhead (5.1%) is a milkshake pale ale with smooth, creamy strawberry flavours. It's like drinking a dessert in all the good ways! I thoroughly the beer and Amy enjoyed her cider whilst we sat at a comfortable table roughly between the bar and kitchen. The bar staff were kind enough to allow me to charge my phone so a big thumbs up all round!

We had time for one final pub before our return train journey home and our final candidate was only a short walk. A nearby pedestrian path runs alongside Brayford Pool, at the end of which lie several pubs and restaurants, the last of which is the Royal William IV.

Situated at Brayford Wharf, the Royal William IV is a sister pub to the Horse & Groom and is named after the man who was king of Great Britain between 1830-1837. He died without legitimate issue and so the throne passed to his niece Victoria. Inside the pub is very spacious. The bar sits in the approximate centre and there is seating throughout which is a good mix of traditional tables and more comfortable, relaxed seating. 4 handpumps are prominent on the bar and on the day they offered a choice between Cameron's Strongarm, Ferry Ales 3B, 4T's IPA and Timothy Taylor Landlord. I've had good beers from 4T's before so I opted for more of the same this time. Amy was happy to stick to Aspall's for the last pub of the day. At 4.6%, the IPA was very tasty indeed. Hopped with Amarillo, Apollo, Centennial and Warrior, the beer is bursting with citrus and grapefruit flavours and a nice, punchy bitterness that rounds the whole thing out. It was certainly a fantastic beer to end the day on! 

With our glasses drained for the final time, we now made our way back to the train station for the journey home, heads filled with memories of the day. What did Amy and I think of Lincoln? It was ace! The range of pubs and beers we experienced on the day were testament to the fair city and left us wanting more. There were absolute stand outs, namely The Strugglers and The Jolly Brewer (whatever it's ultimate fate may be) and some pleasant surprises in the shape of the Cardinal's Hat, Magna Carta and Wig & Mitre. All in all, it was a fantastic day and, with so many pubs in Lincoln that we never even got near, it would be rude not to go back in future. Ultimately, it's hard to consider this as anything other than a rousing success. There are certainly worse ways to spend a Saturday!