The Best of Beeston

Just like that, we find ourselves in April which, disconcertingly, means that a quarter of the year has passed us by. Just as well then, that the excursions have been coming thick and fast. This past Saturday, with my week off drawing to its inevitable conclusion, provided an opportunity to head out for an exploration of a place that has long been overdue a revisit, and also happens to be considerably closer to home than recent locales. It's been nearly 10 years since Beeston first made an appearance in this column, a fact that needed hastily rectifying at the first opportunity. In the interim, Beeston's drinking scene, which had been possessed of a couple of bonafide beer destinations, has continued to improve no end, with new premises opening, old ones being brought back to life and stalwarts going from strength to strength. This trip also had the added bonus of featuring a very special, returning guest. Accompanying myself and Amy on a Saturday afternoon of boozy wonderment, would be Matt who had joined us from Bristol for the weekend, for a long awaited reunion. It had been more than 3 years since we'd seen Matt in person during our trip to Bristol and Bath on the weekend in March 2020 before things went decidedly skew-whiff. Following an evening of reacquainting Matt with Nottingham the previous day, we were raring to go on Saturday morning and, fuelled by a hearty breakfast, we set off. We got the tram to Beeston. Despite their unreliability and how much we generally hate them, the tram still remains the quickest way to reach Beeston from our end of the city and, having changed lines at Nottingham train station, we disembarked at Chilwell High Road at around 11.30am. Amy had never been to Beeston, Matt hadn't been for years for obvious reasons and my last visit had been during various Covid restrictions in 2021 with two, now former, work colleagues. 

We had a good itinerary to work from and, to that end, had decided to head to the furthest out location first, particularly as it opened before all of the others. Crossing the road from the tram stop, we headed down a small side road between a small Co-Op and a building site and walked through a new-build housing estate. Emerging on Queens Road West, we crossed over and turned left, continuing on until we reached Dovecote Lane, where we turned right. Situated at the end of Dovecote Lane, immediately adjacent to the railway line and backing onto Beeston Station, is a must-visit for any beer lover that happens to be in the area. Our day in Beeston would begin at the Victoria Hotel.

This fine, former railway hotel was built by Ind Coope & Co. in 1899, opposite what was then the Beeston Brewery and, later, the Shipstone's Maltings. Allied Breweries did a fantastic job of neglecting the building until 1994 when it was purchased and restored by Tynemill (now Castle Rock). The heritage interior comprises both Victorian and 1930s features, throughout a multi-room layout. The entrance leads into a lobby with a former off-sales hatch or snug straight ahead, although this is now used for storage. To the right, a smaller, plain bar area, which is self-contained with its own toilets. To the left, is a much larger space where the back corner has been opened out into two more rooms, primarily used for dining. The doors, windows and benches are primarily Victorian but other features are from the 1930s makeover when the bar counter was extended to serve both main rooms. The bar fittings contain some Art Deco features, and other features added at the same time, specifically Dado panelling, floors and fireplaces, all survive with minor alterations. The rear lobby features a staircase with a stained glass window and, beyond this, a garden alongside the railway that features a large, partially covered seating area. An exterior corridor also leads to the gents toilets. Now operated by an independent owner, the Victoria has become a mainstay of the Beeston and wider Nottinghamshire beer scene, is Good Beer Guide listed for 2023 and was registered as an Asset of Community Value in January 2023. We arrived to find the pub already beginning to slowly fill with locals. Making our way into the left hand bar area, we were momentarily struck dumb by the sheer quantity of beer available. 11 handpulls welcomed us, with an interesting mix of choices. Available on the day were Full Mash Seance, Castle Rock Harvest Pale, Black Sheep Bitter, Brains Rev. James, Lenton Lane Pale Moonlight, Warwickshire Darling Buds, Charnwood Outback, Warwickshire Lady Godiva, Shiny Affinity, Lenton Lane 5G and Portobello Crown Jewels. Matt and I both initially pondered the 5G but, at 5.6%, this seemed a tad hefty for so early in the day and with so many pubs ahead of us. Instead, Matt went for Lenton Lane's Pale Moonlight, whilst I opted for Lady Godiva from Leamington Spa's Warwickshire Beer Co., whilst Amy began the day on Stowford Press keg cider. Beers bought, we managed to find one of the few unreserved tables in one of the dining areas at which to enjoy them. I'd immediately remembered why the Victoria was so good. The beer choice is superb, the service is great, the pub is aesthetically pleasing and the food, which we saw being conveyed to hungry diners, looked and smelled fantastic! It's a real result that this place was rescued and reinvigorated in the way that it was. As well as in terms of quantity, the beer quality here is also excellent. Lady Godiva (4.2%) is a golden ale with aromas of honey and biscuit. A slightly sweet, biscuity maltness is balanced against rounded hoppy bitterness with sweetness on the palate leading to a lingering, bitter finish. In short, it was a very good choice for the first beer of the day. Shortly, the table we were sat on was also reserved for later diners and it's a testament to the quality and consistency of the Victoria that the place seemed to be virtually fully booked for the lunchtime rush. We, however, would not be staying for food. The day was young and there was much more to be getting on with. 

Leaving the Victoria via the rear exit, we retraced our steps almost exactly, emerging back at the tram stop a few minutes later. A few feet from here, our second location was instantly visible. Next, to The Chequers Inn.

Straddling the Beeston/Chilwell border, the Chequers is a former Shipstone's house. The current building dates from the late Victorian or early Edwardian period and occupies the site of an earlier pub with the same name. In 1876, J. Chapman held the licence for the premises and the pub acted as a coaching inn in the early 20th century. The timbered gables and etched windows are amongst the most notable features. Originally consisting of several internal rooms, these were knocked through into one large room in 1984. A full refurbishment was carried out in 2015. A decked patio and garden can be found to the rear of the pub. Internally, that one large room consists of a slightly raised area to the front, often used for live music with a smaller seating area to the right of the front door. To the rear, is a small room with a pool table, adjacent to a carpeted area with high tables and chairs. Two TVs can be found on the walls, one at either end of the pub. The bar sits mostly along one wall and serves all areas. The Chequers was very quiet when we arrived, despite Man City v Liverpool being shown on the TVs. Barring a small cluster of regulars in the seating area, a father and son playing pool and two girls sat at a table inside the front windows, we were the only ones in there. I was pleased to see a cluster of 3 handpulls on the bar, 2 of which were in use, both offering beers from Timothy Taylor, specifically Landlord and Knowle Spring. We decided on Knowle Spring all round! An interesting feature of the service here is that a Covid-era one-way system still remains in place at the bar, implemented with the help of a fabric barrier that defines the queue area. We entered at one end and ordered our drinks which were poured for us and then placed on the counter at the other end of the bar to ensure that we had to walk through the queuing area to collect them. This is genuinely the first pub I've seen still operating this kind of method since restrictions were eased and relative normality returned. Each to their own. Whatever licensees feel is necessary to keep themselves and their customers safe should be accepted. We took our drinks to a table in one corner, near the toilets and in view of the second TV where we watched as Liverpool's 1-0 lead quickly and spectacularly unravelled. We were all pleased with our decision to choose the Knowle Spring as our beer here. Landlord can be found the length and breadth of the country so finding something less ubiquitous from the Timothy Taylor stable was a nice change. Knowle Spring (4.2%) is a full-bodied blonde beer. It's easy drinking with aromas of floral and grapefruit, a hint of spiced orange on the tongue and finishing with aromatic citrus hop flavours, courtesy of UK-grown Minstrel, Cascade and Chinook. I had vague memories of having tried the beer before but exactly when and where I can't be sure. At any rate, it was certainly better than the football would turn out to be. 

Putting the Chequers behind us, our attention immediately turned to our next destination, handily located opposite. Crossing back over the road, it was no time at all before we had reached The Hop Pole.

Thought to be the oldest building in the local council area, the Hop Pole was built in 1847 and became a pub in 1870. Formerly owned by Punch Taverns and latterly by Star Pubs and Bars (Heineken), the pub has been operated by Pub People for several years. Despite looking like it could do with a lick of paint on the outside, appearances can be deceiving. Entering through the front door (located on the side of the building when approaching from the road) leads to a well appointed two-roomed pub. To the right, is a comfortable lounge bar with banquette seating, soft furnishings and low wooden tables and, to the left, a larger more open room, extending back to an area used for live music. Low wooden tables and chairs are spread around the room at various intervals. Both rooms are served by a central bar with the toilets located either side of the entranceway. Amongst these genuinely very welcome and homely surroundings, are 8 handpulls. We entered into the left hand room to find 5 of these in use, with a choice of St. Austell Cornish Best, Charnwood Salvation, Dancing Duck Dark Drake, St. Austell Proper Job and Charnwood Vixen. Amy and I both went for the Vixen from Loughborough's Charnwood, a recent favourite brewery of mine. Matt swung in favour of the Cornish Best, a beer from St. Austell that isn't often seen in these parts compared to the relatively common Tribute and Proper Job. We occupied a table a short distance from the bar, where conversation turned to music and beer. The Vixen was superb! This is a 4% copper ale with subtle hints of honey, spice and hedgerow fruits, accompanied by a fruity aroma and finish. Amy and I both really enjoyed this beer. Matt's Cornish Best was delicious too, a very understated pale ale with good balance of hop flavours as well as toffee and biscuit notes.

We were approaching the halfway stage of our day's excursions and the best was certainly yet to come. Leaving the Hop Pole, we turned left and continued down the High Street where we found our next stop a few yards away, at Totally Tapped.

Located in a row of late 19th century terrace shops, Totally Tapped occupies what was, most recently, a travel shop. Previously located a few yards away, at a smaller property over the road, the pub moved to this location earlier this year, opening a few weeks prior to our visit. Until mere weeks ago, Totally Tapped operated as the taphouse for the now, sadly, defunct Totally Brewed which has been forced to cease trading due to rising costs of literally everything. Happily, Totally Tapped is continuing to operate as a going concern and is one of two micropubs that we would be visiting that day. Inside, the decor is bright and quirky. A small bar to the rear presents 4 handpumps, and a number of keg beers on the wall behind whilst, adjacent to this, two enormous beer fridges sit resplendent, filled with all manner of fantastic beery goodness! A unisex toilet can be found to the rear and, in warmer weather, a small garden can be accessed through a rear door. This place is a beer nerd's heaven, from the range and quantity of beers available, to the A-board exclaiming that dogs are welcome and will be served before people, right down to the cardboard cut-out of Nicolas Cage propped on a radiator in the rear corridor. Just a note: Payment is by card only. What of the beers? The 4 handpumps in question were all kitted out with beers from Black Iris, presumably as a compromise to sourcing more without having to leave the pumps empty in the absence of Totally Brewed products going forward. The cask options on the day were Bleeding Heart, Ngaru Nui, Ngaru Iti and Rise & Shine. It was the latter of these to which I found myself drawn. Matt had decided on a hazy, keg pale from Birmingham's Glasshouse brewery whilst Amy had been irresistibly drawn to the Vault City cans in the fridge. Vault City is one of Amy's favourite breweries and there was a lot of their stuff here. After we had all tried a sample of a mango & habanero sour on keg, Amy selected Paradise Punch, a kiwi, melon and mango session sour in a can. My choice, Rise & Shine (5.2%), is a coffee milk stout. I'm normally averse to coffee flavours but was pleasantly surprised by how good this was. The coffee was subtle which the richness and sweetness to take over. The bitterness balances well with the smoother mouthfeel from the lactose component. All-in-all, this was a fantastic beer and, genuinely, one of the best stouts I've ever had. Amy's sour can was sensational, being both fruity and citrusy but without being too sharp or cloying as some sours can be. Matt's hazy Glasshouse beer was a top quality NEIPA, juicy, citrusy and dank with some subtle bitterness underneath. We loved this pub. Not only was the service great and the beer choice fantastic but the pub in general is the perfect model of one of the new generation of micropubs. I cannot recommend it enough. The loss of Totally Brewed is gutting but fingers crossed this cracking little pub carries on forever.

It would have been very easy to have stayed at Totally Tapped all day and never gone home again. However, there was still more work too and the next two locations are two of the most well-regarded in the current Beeston beer scene. Continuing down the High Street, we swung a right onto Church Street to visit The Crown.

This Grade II listed Beeston institution stands on a site occupied by an alehouse since at least 1830. Good Beer Guide 2023 listed, the pub's current appearance owes to its restoration by Everards, which sympathetically improved and retained key features of the pub's heritage interior. Inside, a single bar serves 5 distinct areas with the four original rooms, known as the 'Shambles', retained when the pub was extended in 1976. The original door, now effectively subsidiary, is on Middle Street and leads into a passageway with quarry tiling. A pair of open doors leads to a sliding hatch and still intact stable door with a shelf and part-glazing. The very small public bar to the right has retained 1880s bar fittings and the quarry tiled floor. The herringbone-panelled bar counter looks out over furniture consisting of a bench and three small tables. Another glazed partition wall separates a tiny snug, which was formerly an off-sales room. The snug to the left of the entrance passage has old fixed seating on three sides. The Games Room is the last of the original suite of rooms and features vintage Dado panelling and fixed seating of various dates. There is also a tiny, three-seat 'confessional', originally used as a hideaway for the local vicar. The primary entrance into this gem of a pub is through the rear garden, which also features an outside bar in warmer months. The Crown was listed as an Asset of Community Value in January 2023 and has been a previous regional Pub of the Year winner in 2010 and 2011. The central bar boasts 11 handpulls, a number of keg lines and 7 real ciders and perries, making it yet another destination beer pub for this area. Myself and Matt had been to The Crown before and knew what to expect but still found ourselves mesmerised by the history and aesthetics, as well as the not insubstantial beer selection. Amy was also impressed by the traditional style of the pub and the fact that it was the busiest we'd been in so far as well as being dog friendly. A choice of 11 real ales on handpull greeted us. We had to make a decision between Dancing Duck 22, Brewster's Hophead, Everards Tiger, Blue Monkey BG Sips, Three Blind Mice Simple Stout, Oakham Bishop's Farewell, Abbeydale Cloud Peak, Moor Beer Stout, Abbeydale Reverie, Wilde Child Wonderland Trail and Black Iris All Seeing IPA. Quite some choice, I think you'll agree! In the end, we managed to make a decision, with Amy going for Tiger and Matt & I both opting for 22 from Dancing Duck. We managed to find a table in one of the tiny snugs, around the corner from the main bar, in which to fully immerse ourselves in this historic pub. Amy's Tiger was very well kept and the same can be said for the 22 (4.3%). 22 is a well balanced session bitter with good malty flavour and dark fruit notes, offset by strong hop flavours and a clean finish. It's very drinkable and refreshing. I was really glad to see that the Crown is still going strong. Not only is the atmosphere just as I remembered it but their beer is still amongst the best in the area. This is clearly a very old pub and, at first glance, there seems to be nothing more than good vibes on show. Something spooky is believed to lurk within. A figure in a cloak and wearing a plumed hat, identified as resembling a Cavalier, has been seen throughout the property before vanishing without a trace. As the pub dates back to the 19th century, whoever or whatever this apparition is, clearly dates from a much earlier date. To be fair, I can think of much worse places to spend the afterlife!

Dragging ourselves away from the Crown, we continued down Middle Street, finding ourselves roughly in the centre of Beeston and a stone's throw from the main shopping district. Our next destination stands just nearby and is another pub that represents the continued rejuvenation of Beeston's beer scene. The final of the three Good Beer Guide 2023 listed pubs of the day, was The Star Inn.

Another former Shipstone's house in the locality, The Star Inn was rebuilt in 1915 to a design of local architect Frederick Ball, the uncle of WWI air ace Albert. The current owners have restored the pub far beyond its former glory with the pub winning Nottingham LocAle Pub of the Year in both 2017 and 2019. Inside, the decor is tasteful and minimal with characterful touches, such as Star Wars figurines and interesting artwork and posters. One long bar serves a lounge-style bar space with high tables and stools throughout. A permanent marquee and spacious garden can be found to the rear and there is a separate sports room. The bar itself featured in both 'Boon' and 'Auf Wiedersehen, Pet'. The bar is well stocked. As well as a bank of 10 handpulls, there is a good selection of whiskies, gins, wines and rums. In the years since its refurbishment, The Star has built a fantastic reputation for the range and quality of its ales and we were about to put that to the test. Our delightful array of options ran as follows: Blue Monkey Infinity IPA, Little Brewing Hawk, Beartown Lit, Black Iris Snake Eyes, Alter Ego Goth Juice, Thornbridge Jaipur, Black Iris All Seeing IPA, Marston's Wainwright, Alter Ego Blonde Protagonist and Marston's Pedigree. Such was the choice that I almost missed the presence of Jaipur on the bar, not an easy feat! Whilst Matt and I decided on the Blonde Protagonist from Alfreton's Alter Ego, Amy opted for the Infinity IPA, and we made our way to a high round table with a trio of stools, a short distance from the bar. Once again, I'd forgotten how good The Star was. Even with the presence of a suspiciously well-behaved stag do, the atmosphere was relaxed and pleasant and the beer was great. Blonde Protagonist (4.3.%) is a hoppy, blonde ale with UK hops, including UK-grown Cascade. It's delicious, with decent hop character and some delicate bitterness. Amy's Infinity IPA was in great condition, from the ever reliable Blue Monkey. 

We were fast approaching the end of our journey but it wasn't over yet. There were still at least 2 pubs that we were hoping to squeeze in. Leaving the Star, we turned right and followed the tramlines until we reached the junction with Union Street where we turned left and crossed the road. A short distance away is the Malt Shovel.

This former Shipstone's tied house is now owned by the Reunion Pub Company, who reopened the Malt Shovel in December 2022, after a period of closure and a small refurbishment. The pub occupies a good location just off of Beeston's main high street. Inside, the decor is minimal and modern. Seating is a combination of banquettes and wooden tables and chairs. The walls display old posters and the lighting is soft and muted. The bar sits in one corner of the room and features 5 handpulls, usually featuring beers from the Shipstone's range, plus guests. This turned out to be the case when we arrived and waited to be served by the criminally overworked barman, who appeared to be completely by himself on a Saturday afternoon. We were able to fully peruse the available ale range at least. As well as a trio of beers from Shipstone's, namely Gold Star, IPA and Original, there were also two guest beers, in the shape of Wye Valley HPA and Bath Ales Gem, both an uncommon sight in this part of the country. Matt went for the HPA whereas I stayed local with the Shipstone's Gold Star. Amy decided to take a temporary break from booze and went for a soft drink, and we headed over to a table underneath the windows. The Gold Star was very good. In my opinion, it's one of the better beers currently brewed under the Shipstone's name. The others are by no means bad. I just find that Gold Star always hits the spot. Our day had shaped up very nicely indeed and we'd timed our arrival here perfectly as we'd stayed one step ahead of the stag do that we'd first seen in the Star who had now just arrived here. It's definitely better to be at the bar before the round that includes at least 4 pints of Guinness! The Malt Shovel is certainly a handy pub to have in the area and it's good that it was able to reopen. We were also pleased to see that reinforcements had arrived to rescue the beleaguered barman, shortly before we left. 

Our itinerary had served us well, and we had made the right choice to visit the Victoria first as everything else is considerably closer together. The same was true of our next stop. Emerging from the Malt Shovel and turning right brought us out onto the central high street where our next destination stood directly in front of us. Time now for the Pottle.

The second and final micropub of the day is a small, friendly place amongst the shops of central Beeston. A small bar is in the far corner of the room and there is seating along either side of the room, with more seating outside. The toilets are located upstairs. Beers are served direct from the cask via gravity and are located in a small, temperature controlled room behind the bar. 6 such beers were available when we wandered in, offering an interesting range of options, and there are also keg beers and bottles and cans available too. The choices we were faced with were Blue Monkey A4, Bang the Elephant Idle Hands, Pheasantry Single Hop El Dorado, Pentrich Flood of Flame, Milestone Fletchers and Bang the Elephant Penny Caramel. I'm as attracted to interesting beer names as much as I am specific breweries so it didn't take me long to decide on Flood of Flame from Pentrich. Amy and Matt both made their selections and, before too long, we were perched at a table along the left hand wall, clutching our beers in their handled glasses. Flood of Flame (4.5%) is an awesome beer! It's a super hoppy, very hazy, pale ale, hopped with Amarillo and Motueka. These provide flavours of juicy citrus and light gooseberry, which are complemented by light floral notes and a low bitterness towards the end. This was a very very good beer indeed. The Pottle is an interesting little place with a diverse beer range and it certainly appeared to be popular, even on an unsettled Saturday in early April.

We had a decision to make now. On the one hand, we could potentially push on and make our way to a final duo of pubs to wrap up the day. Alternatively, we hadn't eaten since breakfast and hunger was starting to become a factor as time wore on. In the end, we decided to listen to our stomachs, finished our beers and made the short walk back down Union Street towards the tram which would convey us on our journey towards both home and food. Our journey would allow us to discuss our day and determine our findings. Beeston had been a real treat! In the 10 years since this blog first covered it, things have changed but it only really seems to be for the better. Venues that were leading the way continue to do so. Destination ale pubs are still flying the flag. Given everything that has happened in the last decade, in particular the last 3 years, it's a great relief to see somewhere that is still thriving. Pubs and breweries have been pushed to breaking point so to see that so many in close proximity, in one small part of the county, are doing so well against the apparently never-ending turmoil, can only be a good thing. How long this Beeston boom will continue is anyone's guess, but it certainly shows no signs of abating. Indeed, as I type, the White Lion, next to The Star is being prepared for a summer reopening after 3 years of closure, having recently been purchased and, we can but hope, subsequently rescued by Lincoln Green Brewery. The fact that Beeston has arguably more great pubs than it had before, needs to be celebrated. Based on the results of our visit, you'd be hard pressed to find anywhere quite like it. 

Pub of the day: Totally Tapped. Despite the presence of the traditional big hitters nearby, this place blew us away.

Beer of the day: Another tough decision but Black Iris Rise & Shine just about edged it for me. We all thought Vault City's Paradise Punch was stunning too.

Biggest surprise: The Hop Pole. Looks a bit neglected on the outside but is actually a very nice and welcoming pub.