A Bristol Beerfest!

Following on from our day out in Bradford on Avon, the next 2 days of this year's Bristolian excursion would focus on pubs in Bristol itself, some of which I was visiting for the first time, whereas others were old favourites or pubs that we felt deserved a revisit. 

The first of these trips, on what was Matt's 28th birthday, would see us making our way to the suburb of Cotham and working our way down the hill with the intention of finishing the evening with a pub quiz, recruiting Jess along the way. We headed out relatively early, getting a bus into the centre before walking, via a mildly circuitous route, uphill to our first destination. Our day of drinking would begin at The Penny. 

On the edge of Clifton and across the road from Clifton Down shopping centre, this is a pub in a former bank which still hosts the old bank vault downstairs. Formerly known as the Penny Farthing, this is a Wadworth owned premises with a modern, comfortable feel, painted woodwork, beer themed wallpaper and Wadworth paraphernalia. The bar is large and situated to the right of the room with seating consisting of tables and booths. As you'd expect the beer choice is Wadworth with 5 of the 6 handpulls in use during our visit. The choice is between Horizon, Dirty Rucker, 6X, IPA and Flyin' Try. I opted for a pint of the Horizon (4%), a pale gold-coloured beer with zesty citrus and hop aromas and a crisp, tangy finish on the palate. It's a nice and refreshing way to start the day and I feel like we've earned a pint after the walk. The weather had settled down considerably from the previous day and there was a much more pleasant feel in the air throughout the day. We had a loose route planned that would take us back downhill towards the centre of town. The Penny had certainly been a good place to start off the day and our next destination was a short walk away. Leaving the pub through the opposite door through which we entered, we emerged on Cotham Hill.

A short walk to the right brought us to our next stop, somewhere we'd visited on a previous occasion. It was time for a revisit of Brewhouse & Kitchen. 

Part of the now nationwide chain, the pub has gone by many names in the past including the Hill, Cotham Hill, Crockers and Finnegan's Wake and is built on the site of the 18th century Whiteladies Tavern. Situated 100 yards from Clifton Down station, the pub reopened in March 2015, following an extensive refurbishment. As with other pubs in the chain, the beer is brewed onsite and named after local historical figures or stories. The brewery is located at one end of the long bar, which takes up the majority of the rear wall. The rest of the space is given over to a variety of seating and quirky features including hollowed out suitcases used as picture frames and an upright piano decorated with the lyrics to Peter Gabriel's 'Sledgehammer'. The pub is also Good Beer Guide listed, a testament to the quality of the beers. Speaking of the beers, they occupy 6 handpulls on the bar, 5 of which were in use during our visit. Our options were strictly B&K beers namely, Yankee Cabot, Crockers, Down the Hatch and Hornigold. The 5th handpull was occupied by Orchard Pig Chilli & Ginger cider. A few of the available beers were a bit on the strong side for this time of day so I opted instead for the Hornigold (3.9%). This is a dry and refreshing very pale ale, named after Benjamin Hornigold, mentor to the infamous pirate Blackbeard. Despite the low ABV, it's a very delicious beer indeed! 

We headed further down the hill for our next stop, which stood in a cluster of pubs not far from the local university. Next up, we crossed the road and made our way to the Highbury Vaults. 

Listed on CAMRA's regional inventory of historic interiors, this pub has been in the same hands for many years. Popular with staff from both the university and nearby hospital, it dates from the mid 19th century. The interior is dark and dimly lit with a small front snug that used to be the entirety of the original pub, a main drinking area, bar billiards table and a working train set that connects the bars. There is a large, heated patio outside and a garden with impressive floral arrangements. The pub also has a bit of a grim history. The gallows used to stand on the nearby roundabout and this pub was often the last stop for the condemned, with their bodies being stored in the vaults under the pub before burial. The walls are decorated with all sorts of bric-a-brac including funny newspaper headlines. The bar features 8 handpulls offering doubled up Young's Bitter and London Gold, as well as Teignworthy Mad Hatters, Butcombe Gold, Tribute and Bath Gem. I decided on the Butcombe Gold (4.4%), a golden ale with a light aroma of fruit and hops, leading to well-balanced flavours of malt, pale fruit and hops, leading to a bitter aftertaste. We took our pints and headed out into the pleasant garden where conversation, as it often does with me and Matt, turned to music, specifically how Matt knows the cousin of a member of Tool. I thoroughly enjoyed the Highbury Vaults and I'd definitely like to visit again. It's an unusual and very pleasant place for a pint. 

We had not far to go at all for our next stop as it is located opposite. We now made our way to Beerd. 

This is a sleek, modern bar, originally opened by Bath Ales in 2011 and refurbished in the summer of 2017. As well as 4 handpulls, there are also a number of craft keg beers, located on a bar surrounded by a mixture of furnishings consisting of high and low tables, chairs, sofas and armchairs. The aforementioned handpulls appear to be repurposed bike handlebars although they may just have been decorated to appear this way. The beers on offer are Bath Gem, St. Austell Tribute, St. Austell Proper Job and Wild Beer Co. Bibble. Having really enjoyed Bibble when I've had it in the past, it didn't take me long to decide to have it again. At 4.2%, Bibble has a moreish bitterness complimented by tropical fruit flavours from Mosaic and Amarillo hops. The name is a local Somerset word meaning to drink regularly. It's certainly a delicious beer and this venue in general is very interesting. I enjoyed the quirkiness of it and I enjoyed the pint I had so it ticks all the boxes in that respect!

Just next door to Beerd, lay our next destination. We now made our way to the Cotham Arms.

Formerly known under a variety of names such as the Royal Fort, Bar @ 155, Howlin' Wolf and Chin Chin, the pub reopened under its new name on 3rd August 2017, following a refurbishment. It is a Grade II listed building that was built between 1861 and 1871, when it was known as the Highbury Park Tavern. Its first recorded landlord was John Dando and it stayed within the family until 1883. It was once a popular cider house in the Cotham district. Nowadays, there is a contemporary feel with two main rooms. The light and airy front bar is furnished with a variety of tables and chairs. The pub is now operated by Bermondsey Pub Co, a subsidiary of Enterprise Inns. As well as ales, there is also a large selection of gins. 2 of the 3 available handpulls are in use on our visit, offering a choice between Doom Bar and Milk Street The Usual. It was to the latter that we turned our attention. The Usual (4.4%) has a well-rounded fruitiness with hints of caramel in the taste. The slight sweetness is balanced by a bitter, grainy finish with hints of raspberry. It's an unusual concoction but delicious all the same. It's even more enjoyable in the surroundings in which we find ourselves, under the gaze of the mural of a gin-loving octopus.

Our next stop was a slightly further walk away and a little bit more downhill, although not by much. Next up was the White Bear.

  

With its namesake proudly standing outside, this pub dates all the way back to 1752 when it was a coaching inn for those looking to trade from the docks at the bottom of the hill. Downstairs features a comfortable lounge to the rear and a more traditional area at the front. Upstairs has a small performance space that accommodates about 50. Three handpulls occupy the bar and at the time of our trip these feature Wickwar B.O.B, Bristol Beer Factory Independence and Bristol Beer Factory Fortitude. Matt and I had a pint of both the Fortitude and Independence respectively. Independence (4.6%), has a strong, hoppy flavour and initial aroma followed by sweet fruitiness leading to a bitter hoppy finish. Overall, it's well balanced with impressive flavour for its strength. The White Bear is a very nice place and we were able to find some free stools upon which to perch at the bar and admire the place fully. One of the things I love about Bristol is how different the pubs are whilst still maintaining a homely and welcoming atmosphere. It's one of the reasons that I enjoy coming back so often. 

This feeling was very much in evidence in our next location which would be our rendezvous point with Jess when she finished work. Back across the road and slightly further down the hill is the Colston Arms. 

Formerly known as Micawber's Ale House, the earliest known licensee served customers here as long ago as 1816. Whilst informal, this is a very welcoming little place with a nice garden to the rear and a table football table. Legend has it that condemned men were allowed their last pint before the gallows here, a claim it shares with the aforementioned Highbury Vaults. The small bar here is visible through the window and boasts 5 handpulls one of which advertises 2 beers. The 6 total choices were. Doom Bar, Bombardier, Wye Valley Hereford Pale, Prescott Hill Climb and Titanic Plum Porter. I needed a moment to decide here as I was sorely tempted by the Plum Porter. In the end though, I decided on the Hereford Pale. This is a pale, hoppy, malty brew with a hint of sweetness before a dry finish, all at just 4%. Jess had arrived just before we ordered and with us all together for the evening, we plotted our next move. 

Next, we decided to make yet another trip to what is my favourite pub in Bristol. It's a haven, not just for beer, but also for rock and metal music. I do, of course, speak of The Gryphon.

Following a brief stop for pizza at nearby Zero Degrees, we arrived at The Gryphon full and in good spirits. Triangular in shape due to its corner plot and just a few yards up the hill from Colston Hall, The Gryphon has a reputation for live music and excellent beers. This is very much a metal shrine with lots of band posters and pump clips all over the walls. 4 of the 6 available handpulls were in use during this particular visit offering Bristol Beer Factory El Choco, Vibrant Forest Flying Saucer, Milestone Hoptimism and Old Sawley Plummeth the Hour. It was an interesting experience seeing beers from the Nottingham area available this far afield but I went for something a bit different, in the shape of Flying Saucer from Lymington's Vibrant Forest brewery. Flying Saucer (4.3%) is a full flavoured golden ale with fruity, floral and citrus-like flavours. It's fresh and hoppy with a long, bitter finish and was very nice indeed. We spent a fair amount of time here, enjoying the music and Matt somehow managed to knock his beer all over Jess without getting any on himself. Jess was less than impressed and I get the feeling that this isn't the first time it's happened. 

We were about to move on to our final destination now. It was again another pub we'd visited on more than one occasion, largely due to the large amount of cats on the premises. It was finally time for the Bag O Nails. 

This is a small gas-lit terraced free house dating from the 1860s that has built an excellent reputation for a great change of cask ales and a large number of very friendly cats roaming free inside. It has a list of 'house rules' covering one pillar some of which are fairly eccentric and the interior also features terracotta colours and portholes in the floor. We had arrived here to get involved with the weekly pub quiz which I'd been positive was on Thursday nights. It turns out that I'd somehow got my wires crossed and we were 48 hours late. Still, at least we'd know for next time and we were here now so it would be rude not to have a pint or 2. 6 of the handpulls were in use, providing a choice of Butts Barbus Barbus, Bristol Beer Factory Milk Stout, Bristol Beer Factory Bow Street, Bristol Beer Factory Nova, Dark Star Pale Ale and Tapstone Kush Kingdom. After a moment's deliberation, I went for the Kush Kingdom (5%). A heady mix of 7 malts and 8 hops are used to make this big hitting orange coloured beer. Dank citrus and fruit flavours combine into a complex and uplifting resiny mouthfeel. I was unfamiliar with Tapstone Brewery but further research has revealed that they're based in Chard in Somerset. I'll definitely be on the lookout for more of their beers after this as this is an excellent beer. 

Following our beers and some friendly cat interaction, the decision was made to head home and so we wound our weary way back to the bus stop for the return journey to Hanham. As with the previous evening, Matt and I had sobered up significantly to the point where we felt like another pint or 2. After dropping Jess at home, we headed down the road to the pub that sits right by the bus stop. We had time for a quick one at The Maypole. 

This is a Grade II listed pub on Hanham high street, operated by Greene King, with a reputation for showing live sport. The interior has a split level layout, with a lower lounge area to the front and a pool room and bar at entrance level. 2 of the 3 handpulls here were in use offering a choice between Abbot Ale and Old Speckled Hen. The Abbot was in fantastic condition. We'd arrived at The Maypole around 10.30pm and we were 2 of the 3 customers in the building which was clearly in the process of closing up for the night. It's a comfortable enough pub though and again it's somewhere we've been to on more than one occasion. 

Upon leaving The Maypole, we decided to head over to the local Spoons which is about 3 doors down from Matt's flat. Again this was the subject of a return visit. Our final pint of the night would be at The Jolly Sailor. 

The pub is situated on the main road through Hanham which follows the route of the old Roman road through Bath. It's name is a link to the nearby river Avon and the earliest recorded landlord is Charles Coole who was in charge during 1853-74. He was followed by Joseph Bateman whose relative conducted a service on board the Titanic as it sank. There are a good selection of beers on offer at the time we're there but, with it being late, I'd somehow forgotten to write any of them down. The best I can offer is that I had a very delicious pint of Exmoor Bitter which went down very well indeed. 

It had been a very good day with lots of positives to take from it. I'd thoroughly enjoyed exploring new pubs and revisiting some old favourites. It had been a long and tiring day and it was time to get some sleep.

The 3rd and final day of my trip took place at a more leisurely pace than the previous 2. This time accompanied by Jess from the outset, we went out around lunchtime and began with a trip to Atomic Burger, possibly the best themed burger restaurant I've even seen, decorated as it is with all sorts of geeky memorabilia. In a nutshell, it's what the inside of my head looks like on a regular basis. From there, suitably stuffed, we headed down the road to a pub we'd skipped when I was last down with Amy. Day 3 took us to the Pipe & Slippers. 

Formerly known as the Berkeley Castle, this is a locals pub with high ceilings, dark wood furnishings and regular live music and DJ nights. We appear to be the only customers as we wander in from the cold, still struggling with how full we are from our burgers. The bar hosts 4 handpulls, 2 of which offer Ashridge Cider and Orchard Pig Chilli & Ginger cider whilst the others offer Purity Mad Goose and Otter Amber. I went for the Amber (4%) which is light, refreshing and mellow with hints of citrus hoppiness. It's creamy and delicate with flavours of hops and fruit. It's a nice start to the day and it's nice to be doing things a bit more slowly after 2 solid days of alcohol. Thankfully, I don't get hangovers so my only symptom was a bit of tiredness. 

Our next pub took some finding, tucked away as it is on the edge of a housing estate in the back streets off Gloucester Road. Once we got our bearings, we finally managed to locate The Bell. 

This is a pleasant, eclectic, two-roomed pub, popular with local DJs and drinkers on their way to local clubs on Friday evenings. There is a pleasant, heated patio area to the rear and local art on the wood-panelled walls adds a bohemian feel to the proceedings. The bar features 4 handpulls which, on the day in question, offer Butcombe Adam Henson's Rare Breed, Butcombe Original, Butcome Gold and Fullers London Pride. For no reason other than the novelty of seeing it here, I went for the London Pride which was excellent and tasted just as it should. We sat outside, with the majority of the other customers, all regulars and enjoyed the dialled back ambience. There was an amusing moment when a regular's dog kicked off at a local cat that was perched on the smoking shelter roof, largely indifferent to the canine onslaught. 

Our next pub would be the last as we were scheduled to meet with Pete, Matt's sister and her boyfriend and a couple of others as part of Matt's birthday celebrations. I can think of no better place to end my most recent trip to Bristol than The Volunteer.

Tucked away in a side street but extremely close to Cabot Circus shops. Dating from 1670 and listed, it reopened in 2011 after being closed for 6 months. It has quickly become a popular fixture on the local scene and features a fully enclosed and heated beer garden. Dog friendly, it was voted Bristol & District CAMRA Pub of the Year 2016. The bar is small and occupies one end of a long room with the rest of the space given over to furniture for both drinking and dining. The outside area is equipped with long benches and heat lamps to ensure everyone is comfortable. The 6 handpulls offer a decent range of beers and, during our visit, included the following: Plain Ales Inntrigue, Tiny Rebel Cwtch, Gloucester Dockside Dark, Gloucester Session Pale, Tex's Secret and Electric Bear Above the Clouds. I initially intended to begin on the Cwtch. This however failed to clear when poured and it turned out to be the end of the barrel. Instead, I swapped to Tex's Secret, a very sweet, very tasty IPA with big top notes of citrus and fruit. I rejoined the others outside and we were soon joined by Becca & Rich, Pete and his girlfriend Wendy, Kenny from Matt's band and his friend Tom and Jess's friends David & Andrea. What followed was an evening of fun conversation, laughs, jokes and excellent beer. Becca pointed out that, until that night, she'd never seen me sober. She has a point but at least she knows I can actually be sober. 

So, how does this trip to Bristol compare to previous visits? As usual, it was excellent. Bristol will continue to be one of my favourite places and has some of my favourite pubs. I'll never get bored of coming down. There's always more to discover and I intend to go and explore it as often as I can. It's just an incredible place and I always have an amazing time. Bristol, you've done it again!

A Haven on the Avon?

Last week, I once again headed down to the West Country for what is fast becoming an annual trip to Matt and Jess down in Bristol for 3 days of exploration, beer drinking and general frivolity. The plan was to include 2 days of visiting a few Bristol establishments that I'd yet to go to as well as taking a trip further afield. We decided that the first day of my trip would be a good day to go exploring elsewhere as Jess was working and wanted to join us later in the week. Once I eventually arrived at Matt's, following a delay due to an accident and congestion on the motorway, we headed straight off. Our destination was Bradford on Avon, over the Wiltshire border but to get there, we first had to travel to Keynsham to get the train. I've mentioned our previous expedition to Keynsham in these pages before and it was to one these prior spots that we headed to first as we had a little bit of time to wait for the train. What better way to start the day than with a pre-train pint at The Old Bank?

The only Good Beer Guide listed pub in Keynsham, this is a free house in a Grade II listed building. It was originally built as a coaching inn before becoming a branch of Westminster bank and then reverting back to a pub. Internally, there is one large room for drinking in with the bar in one corner and a very large TV screen on the back wall. The walls are decorated with photos of old Keynsham and add to the pleasant feel of the place. The aforementioned bar features 6 handpulls, one of which offers Cheddar Valley Cider with the rest given over to ales. To start the day, our choices were Twisted Oak Fallen Tree, Cheddar Ales Totty Pot, Palmers 200, Spitting Feathers Rush Hour and Palmers Tally Ho. I opted to blow out the cobwebs of my drive with a pint of Rush Hour and Matt followed suit. From Cheshire-based Spitting Feathers brewery, Rush Hour (4.5%) is a pale ale with a strong, citrus character brewed with 5 different hop varieties. This combination imparts intense flavours of grapefruit, orange and passionfruit which make it a bit like a fruit cocktail in a glass and all the better for it. The first pint of the day had certainly gotten us in the mood for what lie ahead and we now made our way back to the train station for our short wait for the train.

The weather was taking a turn for the worse by the time we boarded the train but we were not to be deterred. 30 minutes or so later, we arrived in Bradford on Avon. Bradford on Avon is a town and civil parish in west Wiltshire, with a population of 9,402 at the 2011 census. The town's canal, historic buildings, shops, pubs and restaurants make it popular with tourists.
The history of the town can be traced back to Roman origins. It has several buildings dating from the 17th century, when the town grew due to the thriving English woollen textile industry. The town lies partly on the Avon Valley, and partly on the hill that marks the Vale's western edge, eight miles southeast of Bath, in the hilly countryside between the Mendip Hills, Salisbury Plain and the Cotswold Hills. The local area around Bath provides the Jurassic limestone (Bath Stone) from which the older buildings are constructed. The River Avon (the Bristol Avon) runs through the town. The town directly borders Trowbridge to the south east. The town includes the suburbs of Bearfield and Woolley; the parish includes the hamlets of Widbrook and Woolley Green.
The Western Wiltshire Green Belt forms the eastern extent of the Avon Green Belt, and it completely surrounds Bradford-on-Avon, helping to maintain the setting and preserve the character of the town, and minimising urban sprawl between Bath and other nearby settlements such as Trowbridge, Winsley, and Westwood.
The earliest evidence of habitation is fragments of Roman settlements above the town. In particular, archaeological digs have revealed the remains of a large Roman villa with a well-preserved mosaic on the playing fields of St Laurence School. The centre of the town grew up around the ford across the river Avon, hence the origin of the town's name ("Broad-Ford"). This was supplemented in Norman times by the stone bridge that still stands today. The Norman side is upstream, and has pointed arches; the newer side has curved arches. The Town Bridge and Chapel is a grade I listed building. It was originally a packhorse bridge, but widened in the 17th century by rebuilding the western side. On 2 July 1643 the town was the site of a skirmish in the English Civil War, when Royalists seized control of the bridge on their way to the Battle of Lansdowne.
On the bridge stands a small building which was originally a chapel but was later used as a town lockup. The weather vane on top takes the form of a gudgeon, (an early Christian symbol), hence the local saying "under the fish and over the water".
Widbrook Grange is a Georgian manor house on the edge of the town. It was built as a model farm on Earl Manvers' estate; it is now run as a hotel.
The river provided power for the wool mills that gave the town its wealth. The town has 17th-century buildings dating from the most successful period of the local textile industry. The best examples of weavers' cottages are on Newtown, Middle Rank and Tory Terraces. Daniel Defoe visited Bradford on Avon in the early 18th century and commented: "They told me at Bradford on Avon that it was no extra-ordinary thing to have clothiers in that county worth £10,000 to £40,000 per man" (equivalent to £1.3M to £5.3M in 2007).
With improving mechanisation in textile manufacture during the Industrial Revolution, the wool weaving industry moved from cottages to purpose-built woollen mills adjacent to the river, where they used water and steam to power the looms. Around thirty such mills were built in Bradford on Avon alone, and these prospered further until the English woollen industry shifted its centre of power to Yorkshire in the late 19th century. The last local mill closed in 1905. Many have since stood empty and some became derelict.

A notable feature of Bradford on Avon is the large Grade II* listed tithe barn, known as the Saxon Tithe Barn, 180 feet long and 30 feet wide, which was constructed in the 14th century and is now part of Barton Farm Country Park. The barn would have been used for collecting taxes, in the form of goods, to fund the church.
There are several notable buildings in and around the town centre. Many of the old textile factories have been converted into modern flats and apartments; however, few of the buildings are still used today in their original roles. One of the few is The Swan, a public house and hotel set in the centre of town; the building is 17th century and retains many original features, in particular the stone flag floors. Records show that there has been a public house on the same site since the 1500s.
In 1998 the Wiltshire Music Centre was opened in Bradford on Avon, on the grounds of St Laurence School. In 2000, the millennium sculpture nicknamed "Millie" was unveiled.
On 8 October 2003, Bradford on Avon was granted Fairtrade Town status.

I was very excited to explore a new place, somewhere Matt had talked a lot about, and very interested to see what the many drinking establishments in this fine town had to offer. The weather looked set to be rubbish but, as we were pub hopping, we were both confident it would all be worth it. Following a climb up a fairly steep hill with cracking views over the town and countryside beyond, we eventually found our way to the first open pub on our list. Our trip to Bradford on Avon began at The Castle Inn.

Situated on the wonderfully named Mount Pleasant, The Castle is owned by Flatcappers who recently carried out a tasteful refurbishment that earned a national CAMRA award. The pub commands a scenic position with views out towards Salisbury Plain and has a reputation for excellent, locally-sourced food and a comfortable atmosphere. Good Beer Guide listed, it was also local CAMRA Pub of the Year winner for 2017. It's certainly a welcome respite from the inclement conditions as the heavens have decided to open shortly before our arrival. Inside, the pub is divided into 2 sections either side of the entrance with the long bar and low tables in a room to the left and more restaurant-style seating in a room to the right. The bar takes up the entirety of one wall of the first room and features 6 handpulls, 5 of which are in use during our visit. On offer on this occasion were Stonehenge Pig Swill, Three Castles Barbury Castle, Hop Back Winter Lightning, Blindmans Funny Farm and the house beer Flatcappers Ale which is a rebadge of Three Castle Vale. I went for the Funny Farm from Blindmans Brewery in Leighton, Somerset. This is a 4% pale, light golden ale with a crisp, hoppy finish. It's a delicious pint which certainly helped me dry off as we sat at a small round table near to the toilets. From here, we took a moment to plot our next move and also to double check the return train times ready for later. Matt took a moment to go to the loo, heading into the corridor next to where we were sitting which, I quickly realised, was the ladies toilet. Matt clearly hadn't realised though and actually didn't notice at all until after he'd come back out again. Strangely, this wouldn't be the first time that this would happen throughout the day. Suitably refreshed, we ventured back out into the rain to make our way to our next stop.

Next up, we made our way down towards a recent new development on the riverside in an area known as Kingston Mills. Stop number two was The Weaving Shed.

This is a modern café/bar with an emphasis on food but with an area to one side for the casual drinker. It is a large, comfortable and airy place with views over the riverside and the ancient town bridge. The bar is located in the back corner of the room with an open plan kitchen taking up the majority of one wall. The one handpull offers Box Steam Golden Bolt so we both get stuck into a pint of this. This is a straw-coloured bitter with a slightly dry, hoppy aftertaste and a drinkable ABV of 3.8%. We took a few minutes to enjoy this beer in view of the large windows where we were pleased to see that it had temporarily stopped raining. Sadly, this particular weather would not continue.

Our next location was a short walk outside of the town centre proper and we arrived in perfect time as the pub was shortly about to close before it would reopen in the evening. We had now reached The Plough.

This is a simple, local, street-corner boozer, brick-built with a mostly open-plan interior. One corner is dedicated to sports memorabilia, some of it signed. The bar occupies a space towards the rear and features 3 handpulls, 2 of which are in use, offering a choice between Otter Bright and Doom Bar. The Otter Bright (4.3%) was in excellent condition. It's a light and refreshing golden ale with delicate malt and fruit leading through hops into a lingering bitter aftertaste. This is a proper locals pub with a very welcoming atmosphere and we were very grateful to the landlady for letting us finish our pints. We headed on our way, forcibly dragging ourselves away from the Friends rerun that was now on the TV.

It was back down towards the river now, where our next 2 locations sat opposite each other. The first of these wasn't on our initial list but we took a punt when we noticed a sign advertising real ales. The location in question was The Lock Inn.

Although this is essentially a café, this is a very popular venue with a good reputation for hearty food, especially breakfasts. Quirkily and colourfully decorated inside with bright plastic table cloths in primary colours, an additional dining area is situated on a narrowboat tethered nearby. 3 handpulls on the bar offer Lilley's Rhubarb Cider, St. Austell Tribute and Dartmoor Dartmoor Best. I went for a pint of the Tribute and I wasn't disappointed as it was in excellent condition. This was a very interesting place for a pint and it's easy to imagine how busy it must get in the summer seasons as it is a very picturesque spot.

We headed a short distance over the road for our next pint. We now found herself at The Canal Tavern.

As the name suggests, this pub is on the side of the Kennet & Avon Canal and operated by Wadworth. There are 2 rooms, both served by a long central bar, and a substantial outside area. The rain had started again by this stage so we decided to take refuge inside. The 2 handpulls on offer featured a choice of Wadworth beers, namely Henry's IPA and 6X. The IPA (3.6%) is a very tasty beer, despite its low strength. This is a classic session beer, with malt-led flavours and a nicely bitter backbone. This is a nicely, atmospheric place, with the rain gently coming down on the roof and the windows and we enjoyed a few minutes here, helped by the presence of The Chase on the TV. I love a good quiz!

Another nautically named pub was our next stop as we now made our way over to The Barge Inn.

Also situated alongside the canal, the pub was taken over by new management in July 2017. There is a canal side garden suitable for both eating and drinking in finer weather and an adjacent garden with a smokers gazebo. The pub is constructed, as is much of the town, from Bath stone and occupies a picturesque spot. The bar is to the left of the room as you enter with the rest of the floor space taken up by a mixture of seating. 5 handpulls sit on the bar, 3 of which are in use at the time of our visit providing us with the choice of Otter Bitter, Box Steam Crafty One and Box Clever Toodle Pip Cider. I opted for the Crafty One which again proved to be a good choice as this was a very refreshing beer and again helped to take our minds off of the rain.

From here, we had a plan in mind to head back towards the train station and explore a couple of pubs in that area with the opportunity to hit some later opening venues if we were still feeling up for it. The first of these was immediately next to the station and we had in fact walked past it as we left the station earlier with the intention to return later. Our attention now turned to the Three Horseshoes.

This is an old pub that began life as a coaching inn and has recently built a strong reputation locally for its changing beers and regular live music. The bar occupies a central position with seating spread around. There is a really, quaint olde worlde feel to this pub, reflected and enhanced by the preponderance of original features and the photos and memorabilia related to town history that decorate the walls. The 3 handpulls offer some interesting choices, namely Plain Ales Inntrigue, Plain Ales Hairy Hooker and Prescott Hill Climb. Inntrigue from Plain Ales in Sutton Veny provided my sustenance on this stop. At 4.2%, this is a ruby-coloured best bitter with flavours of woodland berries and a slight hint of dark chocolate, which all combines to form a very tasty beverage indeed.

Our next stop saw us take a brief walk around the corner to the second of Bradford's GBG listed pubs. We now ventured to Timbrell's Yard.

Newly reopened in 2015, the building has been well restored and transformed into an upmarket pub that now also includes accommodation. This was originally the home of Mr. Timbrell, a wealthy local mill owner, who now lends his name to the current incarnation. The well-reviewed restaurant overlooks the nearby Avon. I had high hopes for this place having read some very good reviews and seeing it listed in the Good Beer Guide. However, we were soon to be disappointed. None of the 4 available handpulled beers were able to be served due to a technical fault which, if I understood correctly, meant that the compressor was knackered and a repairman was eagerly awaited. As disappointed as we were, we can't really blame anyone. There's no accounting for technology unfortunately. We've made a mental note to return in the future though.

The beer had kicked in by this point so we decided to forego some of the pubs we'd yet to visit and hop on the train back to Keynsham where we were greeted by Matt's sister Becca, who had very kindly offered to give us a lift home. We arrived back in Hanham where we briefly said hello to Jess before the decision was made that we could fit in one more pint at a local pub. The pub we decided on was one that we'd missed out last time and we made our way back out to pay a visit to The Swan.

Located at the western end of Hanham, this is a very popular community pub with a local feel, It's popularity is clear when we enter as there are already a few people about, despite it being a Wednesday in February. The bar at The Swan sits parallel to the primary seating area and has 4 handpulls, 3 of which were in use whilst we were there. The offering were Doom Bar and Tribute, the latter of which was doubled up. I again decided on Tribute and this was again excellent. We took a table not far from the bar and discussed the ups and downs of our day.

How had Bradford on Avon stood up? It's certainly a very picturesque and interesting place and it's easy to see why so many people are attracted to its pubs, its scenery and its inexplicable number of tea rooms. The pubs are many and very pleasant with a good range and excellent quality of beers and it was nice to see so many pubs championing local beers and supporting local breweries. Particular highlights include The Castle and The Barge and I also rather enjoyed The Lock Inn as its quirkiness and comfort was rather unexpected. The Timbrell's Yard disappointment was unfortunate but does not detract from the place and, as I said, sometimes things like that happen. Overall, I think it's safe to say that Bradford on Avon was more than worth the effort and I have a feeling we'll be going back. I've said it before and I'll say it again: I never ceased to be surprised by the West Country!