Much like Lincolnshire, Staffordshire always seems to deliver. Something about that particular county seems to have a knock on effect into making its towns and cities excellent venues for a pub trip. This year's return trip to Burton, and indeed my first visit, is testament to that. So too, prior trips to both Tamworth and Uttoxeter, in 2023 and last year respectively, proved that Staffordshire's pubs are in rude health and at the heart of their communities, however that may manifest. It should come as no real surprise then that, given the rare opportunity of a Friday off work, albeit by request, that I would spend it venturing back into said county to tick off a location that may not necessarily be on most people's radar from a drinker's point of view. Said destination is more widely known for its medieval history and a famous literary connection, although all of that may be about to change once word gets out about its pubs. If the title wasn't enough of a giveaway, I am, of course, referring to the fine cathedral city of Lichfield.
Lichfield is situated 18 miles (29 km) south-east of the county town of Stafford, 9 miles (14 km) north-east of Walsall, 8 miles (13 km) north-west of Tamworth, 13 miles (21 km) south-west of Burton upon Trent and 14 miles (22.5 km) north of Birmingham. At the time of the 2021 Census, the population was 34,738 and the population of the wider Lichfield District was 106,400.
Notable for its three-spired medieval cathedral, Lichfield was the birthplace of Samuel Johnson, the writer of the first authoritative Dictionary of the English Language. The city's recorded history began when Chad of Mercia arrived to establish his bishopric in 669 AD and the settlement grew as the ecclesiastical centre of Mercia. In 2009, the Staffordshire Hoard, the largest hoard of Anglo-Saxon gold and silver metalwork, was found 4 mi (6.4 km) south-west of Lichfield.
The development of the city was consolidated in the 12th century under Roger de Clinton, who fortified the Cathedral Close and also laid out the town with the ladder-shaped street pattern that survives to this day. Lichfield's heyday was in the 18th century, when it developed into a thriving coaching city. This was a period of great intellectual activity; the city was the home of many famous people including Samuel Johnson, David Garrick, Erasmus Darwin and Anna Seward, prompting Johnson's remark that Lichfield was "a city of philosophers".
Today, the city still retains its old importance as an ecclesiastical centre, and its industrial and commercial development has been limited. The centre of the city has over 230 listed buildings (including many examples of Georgian architecture) and preserves much of its historic character.
The origin of the modern name "Lichfield" is twofold. At Wall, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) south of the current city, there was a Romano-British village, Letocetum, a Common Brittonic place-name meaning "Grey wood", "grey" perhaps referring to varieties of tree prominent in the landscape, such as ash and elm. In the post-Roman period, Letocetum developed into Old Welsh Luitcoyt.
The earliest record of the name in English is the Vita Sancti Wilfredi of around 715, describing when Chad moves from York to Lichfield in 669. "Chad was made Bishop of the Mercians immediately after his deposition; Wilfred gave him the place (locus) at Lichfield (Onlicitfelda)". The prefix "on" indicates that the place given to Chad by Wilfrid was "in Lichfield", indicating the name was understood to apply to a region rather than a specific settlement. Bede's Ecclesiastical History of the English People, completed in 731, states that Chad acquired Licidfelth as his episcopal seat (sedes episcolpalem).
These and later sources show that the name Letocetum had passed into Old English as Licid, to which was appended the Old English word feld ("open country"). This word Lyccidfeld is the origin of the word "Lichfield".
The modern day city of Lichfield and the Roman villa of Letocetum are just two miles (3 km) apart. While these names are distinct in modern usage, they had a common derivation in the Brittonic original *Letocaiton, indicating that "grey wood" referred to the region inclusive of modern-day Lichfield City and the Roman villa.
Popular etymology has it that a thousand Christians were martyred in Lichfield around AD 300 during the reign of Diocletian and that the name Lichfield actually means "field of the dead" (see lich). There is no evidence to support this legend.
The earliest evidence of settlement is Mesolithic flints discovered on the high ground of the cemetery at St Michael on Greenhill, which may indicate an early flint industry. Traces of Neolithic settlement have been discovered on the south side of the sandstone ridge occupied by Lichfield Cathedral.
2.2 mi (3.5 km) south-west of Lichfield, near the point where Icknield Street crosses Watling Street, was the site of Letocetum (the Brittonic *Lētocaiton, "Greywood"). Established in AD 50 as a Roman military fortress, it had become a civilian settlement (vicus) with a bath house and a mansio by the 2nd century. Letocetum fell into decline by the 4th century and the Romans had left by the 5th century. There have been scattered Romano-British finds in Lichfield and it is possible that a burial discovered beneath the cathedral in 1751 was Romano-British. There is no evidence of what happened to Letocetum after the Romans left; however, Lichfield may have emerged as the inhabitants of Letocetum relocated during its decline. A Cair Luit Coyd ("Fort Greywood") was listed by Nennius among the 28 cities of Britain in his Historia Brittonum, although these were largely historic remembrances of early Sub-Roman Britain.
The early history of Lichfield is obscure. The first authentic record of Lichfield occurs in Bede's history, where it is called Licidfelth and mentioned as the place where St Chad fixed the episcopal see of the Mercians in 669. The first Christian king of Mercia, Wulfhere, donated land at Lichfield for St Chad to build a monastery. It was because of this that the ecclesiastical centre of Mercia became settled as the Diocese of Lichfield, which was approximately 7 miles (11 km) northwest of the seat of the Mercian kings at Tamworth.
In July 2009, the Staffordshire Hoard, the largest collection of Anglo-Saxon gold ever found, was discovered in a field in the parish of Hammerwich, 4 mi (6.4 km) south-west of Lichfield; it was probably deposited in the 7th century.
The first cathedral was built on the present site in 700 when Bishop Hædde built a new church to house the bones of St Chad, which had become the centre of a sacred shrine to many pilgrims when he died in 672. The burial in the cathedral of the kings of Mercia, Wulfhere in 674 and Ceolred in 716, further increased the city's prestige. In 786 King Offa made the city an archbishopric with authority over all the bishops from the Humber to the River Thames; his appointee was Archbishop Hygeberht. This may have been motivated by Offa's desire to have an archbishop consecrate his son Ecgfrith as king, since it is possible Jænberht refused to perform the ceremony, which took place in 787. After King Offa's death in 796, Lichfield's power waned; in 803 the primacy was restored to Canterbury by Pope Leo III after only 16 years.
The Historia Brittonum lists the city as one of the 28 cities of Britain around AD 833.
During the 9th century, Mercia was devastated by Danish Vikings. Lichfield itself was unwalled and the cathedral was despoiled, so Bishop Peter moved the see to the fortified and wealthier Chester in 1075. At the time of the Domesday Book survey (1086), Lichfield was held by the bishop of Chester; Lichfield was listed as a small village. The lord of the manor was the Bishop of Chester until the reign of Edward VI.
In 1102 Bishop Peter's successor, Robert de Limesey, transferred the see from Chester to Coventry. The Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield had seats in both locations; work on the present Gothic cathedral at Lichfield began in 1195. (In 1837 the see of Lichfield acquired independent status, and the style 'Bishop of Lichfield' was adopted.)
In 1153 a markets charter was granted by King Stephen and, ever since, weekly markets have been held in the Market Square. Bishop Roger de Clinton was responsible for transforming the scattered settlements to the south of Minster Pool into the ladder-plan streets existing today. Market Street, Wade Street, Bore Street and Frog Lane linked Dam Street, Conduit Street and Bakers Lane on one side with Bird Street and St John Street on the other. Bishop de Clinton also fortified the cathedral close and enclosed the town with a bank and ditch, and gates were set up where roads into the town crossed the ditch. In 1291 Lichfield was severely damaged by a fire which destroyed most of the town; however the Cathedral and Close survived unscathed.
In 1387 Richard II gave a charter for the foundation of the guild of St Mary and St John the Baptist; this guild functioned as the local government, until its dissolution by Edward VI, who incorporated the town in 1548.
The policies of Henry VIII had a dramatic effect on Lichfield. The Reformation brought the disappearance of pilgrim traffic following the destruction of St Chad's shrine in 1538, which was a major loss to the city's economic prosperity. That year too the Franciscan Friary was dissolved, the site becoming a private estate. Further economic decline followed the outbreak of plague in 1593, which resulted in the death of over a third of the entire population.
Three people were burned at the stake for heresy under Mary I. The last public burning at the stake for heresy in England took place in Lichfield, when Edward Wightman from Burton upon Trent was executed by burning in the Market Place on 11 April 1612 for promoting himself as the divine Paraclete and Saviour of the world.
In the English Civil War, Lichfield was divided. The cathedral authorities, supported by some of the townsfolk, were for the king, but the townsfolk generally sided with the Parliament. This led to the fortification of the close in 1643. Lichfield's position as a focus of supply routes had an important strategic significance during the war, and both forces were anxious for control of the city. The Parliamentary commander Lord Brooke led an assault on the fortified close, but was killed by a sniper's bullet on St Chad's day in 1643. The close subsequently yielded to the Parliamentarians, but was retaken by Prince Rupert of the Rhine in the same year, and the governorship granted to a local gentleman, Richard Bagot. On the collapse of the Royalist cause in 1646 it again surrendered. The cathedral suffered extensive damage from the war, including the complete destruction of the central spire. It was restored at the Restoration under the supervision of Bishop Hacket, and thanks in part to the generosity of King Charles II.
Lichfield started to develop a lively coaching trade as a stop-off on the busy route between London and Chester from the 1650s onwards, making it Staffordshire's most prosperous town. In the 18th century, and then reaching its peak in the period from 1800 to 1840, the city thrived as a busy coaching city on the main routes from London to the north-west and Birmingham to the north-east. It also became a centre of great intellectual activity, being the home of many famous people including Samuel Johnson, David Garrick, Erasmus Darwin and Anna Seward; this prompted Johnson's remark that Lichfield was "a city of philosophers". In the 1720s Daniel Defoe described Lichfield as 'a fine, neat, well-built, and indifferent large city', the principal town in the region after Chester. During the late 18th and early 19th century much of the medieval city was rebuilt with the red-brick Georgian style buildings still to be seen today. Also during this time, the city's infrastructure underwent great improvements, with underground sewerage systems, paved streets and gas-powered street lighting. An infantry regiment of the British Army was formed at Lichfield in 1705 by Col. Luke Lillingstone in the King's Head tavern in Bird Street. In 1751 it became the 38th Regiment of Foot, and in 1783 the 1st Staffordshire Regiment; after reorganisation in 1881 it became the 1st battalion of the South Staffordshire Regiment.
The arrival of the Industrial Revolution and the railways in 1837 signalled the end of Lichfield's position as an important staging post for coaching traffic. While nearby Birmingham (and its population) expanded greatly during the Industrial Revolution, Lichfield remained largely unchanged in character.
The first council houses were built in the Dimbles area of the city in the 1930s. The outbreak of World War II brought over 2,000 evacuees from industrialised areas. However, due to the lack of heavy industry in the city, Lichfield escaped lightly, although there were air raids in 1940 and 1941 and three Lichfeldians were killed. Just outside the city, Wellington Bombers flew out of Fradley Aerodrome, which was known as RAF Lichfield. After the war the council built many new houses in the 1960s, including some high-rise flats, while the late 1970s and early 1980s saw the construction of a large housing estate at Boley Park in the south-east of the city. The city's population tripled between 1951 and the late 1980s.
The city has continued expanding to the west. The Darwin Park housing estate has been under development for a number of years and has swelled the city's population by approximately 3,000. Plans were approved for Friarsgate, a new £100 million shopping and leisure complex opposite Lichfield City Station. The police station, bus station, Ford garage and multi-storey car park were to be demolished to make way for 22,000 m2 of retail space and 2,000 m2 of leisure facilities, consisting of a flagship department store, six-screen cinema, hotel, 37 individual shops and 56 flats. These plans have not gone ahead and new plans have been made for a cinema in the abandoned Debenhams building.
As can be seen from the above, Lichfield has seen its fair share of turmoil throughout its long history. As ever, I was looking forward to seeing whether this upheaval would be reflected in the city's many drinking establishments. But first, to get there. Despite its relative proximity, Lichfield cannot be reached directly from Nottingham and so I would be changing trains at Tamworth. Lichfield boasts two railway stations, Lichfield City, right in the centre, and Lichfield Trent Valley, on the outskirts, where my train would eventually deposit me. For the purposes of my visit, this would work out quite nicely. The itinerary I had put together would involve one pub close to the station before turning its attentions to the city centre proper, where the vast majority of the stops would be clustered, lots of them in close proximity to each other. This would give me a fair representation of the city's drinking scene and make getting around relatively straightforward. Foreshadowing alert: I hadn't quite banked on the logistical issues that come with travelling on Black Friday, the day we seem to have adopted from the US that immediately follows Thanksgiving, and sees hundreds of high street brands offering 'deals' on various products, leading to a marked increase in shoppers as people hunt for 'bargains'. This meant that any trains in the vicinity of, or en route to, Birmingham, were much busier than normal. It was also pay weekend, which tends to bring more people out anyway, especially when it's the last such weekend before Christmas. Having arrived at Tamworth with no issues, my subsequent train was delayed by a few minutes. However, once it did arrive, a short journey (6 whole minutes) would elapse and I finally stepped off the train at Lichfield Trent Valley station. It was time to immerse myself into this fine city and reacquaint myself with Staffordshire. I had high hopes as to what to expect. Without further faffing about, at least for now, it was time to get stuck in.
Leaving the station platform, I turned right and exited through the adjacent car park. The road climbed slightly uphill and, at the end, I turned right, which took me over a railway bridge and into the suburb of Streethay where a new housing development and associated retail units are located. One of these units would be my first stop. The newest edition to Lichfield's pub scene is bod.
This new-build cafe bar is visible from several yards up the road, which was one indication that I was at least going in the right direction. It helped that it stood out so clearly under the bright blue mid-morning sky, although the weather would be decidedly more unsettled as the day wore on. The Lichfield branch of bod is part of Titanic Brewery's growing chain of cafe bars, which boded very well indeed. I last encountered a member of this particular chain out in Matlock a couple of years ago and had a wonderful time, so hopes were indeed at their highest. The bar sits opposite a local, very modern looking, branch of Co-Op and has it's own parking outside, as well as outside benches for seating. Inside, it's a very modern, contemporary style. Large windows bring in lots of light to the spacious interior, with its high ceiling and factory-style aesthetic. The furniture is mostly wooden tables and upholstered benches, although there is a high table in the centre of the room with stools around it. The lighting is subtle, with fixtures made from repurposed keg tops. The floor is tiled. The bar sits at the end of the room, festooned with hop flowers. To the right of this, is the cafe counter. Both units are made of reclaimed wood. In general, the feel is light and airy. A mezzanine level provides additional seating. Toilets are reached down stairs to the rear. Resplendent on the bar are 6 handpulls. Given the bar's ownership, it's no surprise to see that these are primarily sporting the products of Titanic, with one given over to cider. A well-stocked keg wall is on the back bar, offering some of their keg products, alongside some guests. It's worth noting that, whilst the venue opens at 8.30am, alcohol is not served until 11am. Pleasingly, I'd arrived around 11.30, so no restrictions for me on that front! My first task was deciding which beer to begin my day with. My options were all from Titanic, namely Steerage, Iceberg, Plum Porter, First Class and Cherry Porter Grand Reserve. The 6th pump was providing Pulp Caramelised Apple cider which, in hindsight, sounds terrible. A moment's perusal, and a short wait to get served, later and I had purchased half a pint of Iceberg (£2.35) and made my way to the aforementioned high table to better take in my environment. Titanic have done a cracking job! So much so that the pub is the proud recipient of a CAMRA Pub Design Award in the new build category. It's Titanic's first purpose built venue and opened in 2023. Well done to all involved as it's a fantastic place for a beer, particularly to begin the day, and especially when the beer is as well kept as the Iceberg was here. Titanic probably don't get enough credit for the quality of their beer. Based on this, pub design is certainly another string to their bow.
With my first, delicious half of the day supped, it was onwards for more. Leaving bod, I retraced my steps, heading back in the direction of the station. This time I continued past the entrance and headed onto Trent Valley Road, which heads directly towards the city centre. The walk itself would take just shy of half an hour. I don't mind walking, especially when I'm exploring new places and there's a pub or ten waiting for me at the end of it. On my way, I passed the Samuel Johnson Hospital, and the historic St. Michael's Church. By now, the road had climbed uphill again and become Church Street. I continued on until, eventually, Church Street branched off onto Greenhill and I had reached my destination, on the right. I was now at the Duke of York.
This Grade II listed building is believed to be the oldest inn in Lichfield, but not the oldest pub (more on which later), and sits just on the edge of the city centre. Behind the simple frontage is a superb, well-maintained interior, with exposed wooden beams, all original, throughout. The layout is multi-roomed. A large split-level bar area is to the front with a comfortable, roomy lounge behind. A side room, known as the Courtyard, is adjacent to both of these, reached via a corridor, where the toilets can also be found. There is also a paved beer terrace to the rear. The Duke of York is owned and operated by Joule's Brewery, meaning it's decorated throughout in their unique style, with upholstered seating, bare wood floors, soft lighting and fairly minimalist decor, barring the Joule's signage on internal doors and the mirror in the lounge. There are also various Christmas decorations displayed throughout, as there would be in all the venues throughout the day. Even bod had fairy lights festooned across multiple beams and above the bar. Back to the Duke of York though. The wind had picked up on my way here and I was followed into the building by a small swathe of leaves, which lent a Gothic air to proceedings and was remarked upon by a member of bar staff as she greeted me. I do like to make an appropriate entrance. This being a Joule's venue, their products are, expectedly, front and centre, spread across two banks of handpulls, totalling 9 overall. The majority are doubled up, with two each of Pale, Slumbering Monk, Blonde and Belgian Fruit Ale. One hand pump offered Moon Madness, which sounded intriguing but would wait until later (spoiler alert). Instead, I decided to try the Belgian Fruit Ale (4%). A half of this cost £2.20. I retreated into the cosy lounge and sat on a pew at a wooden table. There was only one other customer in the room with me, who seemed content with his lager, and so I used the time to observe my surroundings and investigate my beer. I do enjoy a Joule's pub. Their style is unique and their pubs are always welcoming. Their beer tends to be decent too. On this occasion, I had opted for a limited edition brew. Technically known as Batch 1034, the Belgian Fruit Ale is pretty much exactly what it sounds like. It's a Belgian style pale ale, brewed with Saison yeast and 300kg of sour cherries. The end effect is tart, clovey and slightly spicy, with a pronounced pink tinge. It's pretty tasty, although I think I'd struggle to cope with more than a half at a time. Despite that, it went down very well. The wall-mounted hog's head above me, adorned with a Christmas hat and tinsel, almost seemed to smile down approvingly. I approved of the Duke of York and its beer. Casting a glance behind me at the musicians rehearsing in the Courtyard room, I headed back out into the windswept afternoon.
Turning right out of the door, I headed onwards. Greenhill runs on and joins Tamworth Street, which runs into the heart of the shopping district. Several of my next stops are located here, with a few of them being very close to each other. Ignoring one of them for now, as it wasn't yet open, I instead focused on my next intended stop, Beerbohm.
Listed in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, Beerbohm is a cafe bar with a distinct hint of Belgian style about it. Inside, there are two floors. The ground floor features the bar to one side, with banquette seating and wooden tables and chairs. The decor is decidedly quirky, with photos, paintings, and framed drawings displayed on the walls, along with mirrors and antique clocks. Globular chandeliers beam down from the bar ceiling. The style is continued upstairs, in a smaller lounge room, which features a large, central table, further comfy seating and windows that look out onto the street below. A bookcase in one corner hosts several Readers Digest volumes, alongside more academic texts, such as a collection of caricatures from namesake essayist and parodist Max Beerbohm, whose brother, Herbert Beerbohm Tree, became a noted actor and theatre manager in London. The toilets are gender neutral and are located halfway up the stairs, down a small side passage. I can't help but feel a similar vibe to York's Lendal branch of House of Trembling Madness, which is itself heavily influenced by the Belgian bar style. On the bar downstairs, you will find 4 handpulls which, at the time of my visit were offering an interesting mix, namely Goff's Lancer, Milton Justinian, Lincoln Green Marion, and Textile, a collaboration between Castle Rock and RedWillow. On this occasion, I opted for something lighter and went for the Lancer (3.8%), from Cheltenham's Goff's Brewery. A half of this totalled £2.30 and I was lucky enough to find a spare armchair in the upstairs room in which to enjoy it. This place made an impression on me. It's a delightful, unique place to spend some time. If you like feeling like you're in Belgium with a beer when instead you're overlooking a Staffordshire high street, but still have beer, then you're in luck. This is exactly the place for you! They keep a cracking beer here too. Lancer is a golden session ale. It's brewed with Cascade hops, which means you get big zesty notes and a pleasing, light, citrus aroma. Three pubs in and Lichfield was proving its worth. More was to come.
I didn't have far to go at all now. The next two locations are immediately opposite, either side of the local branch of a certain budget pub chain. The first of these, is The Beacon.
I hadn't realised it when I was putting the itinerary for this trip together but this would turn out to be my second visit to a Titanic Brewery pub on the same day. The pub was formerly known as The Pig but was taken over and refurbished by Titanic towards the end of 2024. The new name reflects nearby Beacon Park, which is home to a statue of Stoke-born Edward Smith, captain of the ill-fated Titanic, the origin of the brewery's name. Beyond the mock Tudor frontage is a spacious interior. The bar is relatively large and immediately opposite the door. Seating is arranged around the edges of the room in the form of wooden tables and upholstered benches but also featuring high stools and poser tables. The decor is modern and fairly muted, with bare brickwork chimney breasts, painted wooden panelling and a mixture of bare wood and tile flooring. Articles and photographs about the Titanic are the main attraction on the walls. The bar is certainly well stocked, with 10 handpulls primarily offering Titanic products but also featuring a couple of guest beers, alongside traditional ciders. A similar keg wall to that at bod is located behind the bar too. My options here were Steerage, White Star, Iceberg, Plum Porter, First Class and Cherry Porter Grand Reserve, all from Titanic, with Our House and Mysterons, both from Castle Rock, filling out the guest slots. The cider offerings were Scrambler from the Bottle Kicking Cider Co., as well as Lilley's Raspberry Lemonade. Amongst the Titanic options, I hadn't had White Star very much in the past, so it was a half of that for me (£2.40) and I took a seat at a booth opposite the bar. I was very glad to have included The Beacon on my list. Whilst it isn't listed in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, a handy sticker on the door on the way in reliably informed me that it does feature in the 2026 edition. And it's easy to see why. The White Star (4.5%) is stunning. It's a golden ale with a rich fruity aroma and a full-bodied taste, both the result of dry-hopping. White Star is a SIBA Bronze Award winner so it's reputation very much precedes it. It's a gorgeous beer and gone far too soon.
Leaving the Beacon, it was time to try my luck two doors down, at the Quill & Scholar.
Another pub to have undergone recent refurbishment, the Quill & Scholar was reopened in early 2024 by Heartwood Inns, after previously being known as The Crown. It's well-appointed inside and out. The entrance opens out into a lounge area with plenty of furniture and soft furnishings. The large, long bar extends down the room towards the rear, where the dining area is located. A meet and greet station for diners is located between the two areas. There is some outside seating beyond the dining space. The toilets are located in a side corridor opposite the bar. The interior is decorated in an upmarket style with a real fire and various portraits in the lounge space. Despite being food-led, there is plenty to interest a real ale drinker. 8 handpulls sit on the bar, and 7 of these were in use during my visit, with most offerings doubled up. I had a choice between Butcombe Original, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Dark Star Hophead (all of which were doubled), as well as Titanic Plum Porter. As I don't see it very often, choosing the Butcombe Original was a no-brainer. A half cost £2.60. Please note, payment here is by card only. I took a seat in the corner of the lounge, facing into the room. As the cost likely indicates, this is a more premium outlet but don't let that put you off. It was nicely busy with a mix of families, couples and small groups, most of whom were dining or enjoying teas or coffees. This is a very comfortable venue and I was made to feel welcome. The beer is also worth visiting for. I haven't had Butcombe for a while as it tends not to travel too far north but it was in great condition here.
The weather had certainly changed by the time I was ready to leave the Quill & Scholar. It was hammering it down with rain. A rather resigned looking man in a very nice suit bemoaned his lack of a proper coat. Luckily I had mine with me. Even more conveniently, my next stop was just around the corner and there was handy shelter to be had opposite, under the overhang of some shops. I made a break for it and managed to get under the overhang whilst I located my next destination. It was in a rather odd location, opposite where I was standing and similarly tucked underneath the shop structure jutting out above. Nevertheless, I made my way to the Earl of Lichfield.
Named after, well, George IV, this Stonegate premises lies next door to the city's Guildhall. Another mock-Tudor front contrasts with the modern interior. A central bar serves what is effectively one fairly large room, with seating positioned along the wall but with a couple of smaller tables in the centre. The floor is laminate and the walls are clean and largely bare. There is lots of leather seating, alongside more traditional wooden tables. There are lots of mirrors situated throughout and one corner has a window that looks out into the beer garden. A pool room is off to one side and the main room includes a games machine, jukebox and sports TVs. The toilets are adjacent to the bar. A door at the rear brings you out directly next to the nearby Garrick Theatre. Being part of Stonegate's Craft Union arm often means that venues can be hit and miss for real ale. Not on this occasion though. Two handpulls occupy a space on the bar, offering Bass and something called Merry Firkin Christmas, which appeared to be either some kind of generic seasonal beer or a weird, unidentifiable rebadge. Erring on the side of caution, I went for a half of Bass, the first I'd seen all day, and parted with a very reasonable £1.70. I took a seat in the corner of the room. Truth be told, this isn't a bad place. It's very much in the vein of the Earl of Lichfield, catering for arguably less fussy clientele for much more sensible prices. I've said multiple times throughout the years that pubs should cater for everyone and everyone should be able to find a pub that caters to their wants and needs. Lichfield, so far, had shown that that particular adage is being adhered to. The Bass was decent here as well, which is another tick in the box of positives.
This is, in itself, a rarity, being a former Wetherspoons bought and converted by the Brewhouse & Kitchen chain. Prior to its pub life, the building was a bank, being the former home of the Lichfield branch of the National Provincial Bank, which was later subsumed into NatWest. The building itself is Georgian in style and sits next to the former site of a Franciscan friary and accompanying gatehouse (which gave its name to the Wetherspoons that previously stood here). Archaeological excavations in the mid-90s uncovered several medieval deposits and a grave site, dated to around the 13th or 14th century. Discoveries from later periods included the remains of an old brick wall. Inside, the layout is spacious with plenty of seating, both in the main bar area and in additional, smaller rooms off to the side. As is commonplace with this chain, a two barrel brewery kit occupies space along one wall, brewing specials for the bar. Outdoor seating to the front is complemented by a small beer terrace and smoking area. The decor features diagrams and artefacts highlighting the brewing process, bespoke lighting and repurposed brewery equipment. The bar is to the far right hand side of the room as you enter from the Bird Street entrance. Of the 6 handpulls, 3 were available at the time of my visit offering two of the in-house beers, namely Project Cask Whisky Stout and Handy Man, with another handpull providing Sandford Orchards Devon Red cider. I fancied the Whisky Stout (4.5%) so asked for a half and was then informed by the barman that it would be cheaper to buy a pint as they retail at £3.50 on a Friday. Not cheaper but I had time to kill and I wanted to charge my phone, so I relented and took my pint, in one of B&K's signature steins, into one of the quieter side rooms. I must admit, that I have mixed feelings about Brewhouse & Kitchen these days. Despite the novelty of the concept, you can't help but feel that the charm has worn off. With the exception of the Gloucester branch that I went to last year, I never feel particularly excited by their pubs. Most of them are fairly similar and, quite often, the prices are substantially more than other venues. I suppose you could argue that you're paying for the experience of drinking beer where it's been brewed but there's also the caveat that that should arguably make it cheaper. The Nottingham venue, where Amy and I got married, is apparently up for sale. One hopes that this isn't an ominous sign for the chain as a whole. In the present though, the Whisky Stout wasn't too bad. The whisky was very subtle, with hints of oak in there as well. The bitterness came through strongest but there wasn't a massive amount of oomph, which was a shame. It did at least help pass the time whilst my phone charged.
The second pub of the day operated by Joule's, The Angel is once again a showcase for their particularly niche brand of pub decor. The interior boasts lots of wood and soft furnishings throughout an open-plan layout that has been broken up into smaller areas by the use of wood and glass panels. The bar is to one side, facing into the main room, beyond which is an area of high tables and accompanying stools. The obligatory Joule's branded mirror is on one wall. Pew seating and booths run along the wall opposite the bar. The mixed tile flooring adds to the mix and hanging holly and other flowers complete the vibe. The toilets are to the rear. The bar features 6 handpulls, once again carrying the Joule's beers, namely Belgian Fruit Ale, Moon Madness, Blonde, Slumbering Monk and Pale, with the last hand pump hosting Pulp Strawberry Daiquiri cider. On this occasion, I already knew that I wanted to give the Moon Madness a try, so try it I did. A half cost me £2.25. I took a seat towards the end of the room, at one of the high tables and marvelled at the size of the cheese platter that an older couple in a booth nearby had just received. I was also marvelling at the beer. Moon Madness comes in at an oddly specific 4.66%. It's a mild, brewed with roasted barley and English hops and launched during the October full moon, hence the name. The gentle bitterness combines with flavours of rich fruit, treacle and liquorice, to give something both decadent and moreish. I was almost disappointed that I'd only contented myself with a half.
The oldest public house in Lichfield is believed to have existed since at least 1495, when it was known as The Antelope but the building itself may date back as far as 1408. The present name has been in use since at least 1694, with it also being known as The Bush at some point prior. Now Grade II listed, this former coaching inn has a prominent place in military history as the location where the Staffordshire Regiment was founded in 1705. It now pays tribute to regiment soldiers lost in service with plaques that are mounted on the wall of the entrance courtyard. Inside, the pub is a mishmash of time periods. Heavy beams and exposed timbers hint at its age, whilst there is a much more modern, conservatory extension to one side. A public bar to the front, and a larger lounge to the rear, are both served from a central bar. Operated by Marston's, the beer choice comes from their range, spread across 6 handpulls. Here, the options were Marston's Pedigree (doubled), Wainwright, Banks's Amber (doubled) and Hobgoblin Ruby. I opted for the Wainwright, at £2.60 for a half and made my way to the carpeted lounge at the rear. Furniture in this room, and throughout, is traditional scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. A window to one side looks out into the conservatory/beer garden. Marston's pubs, when they're retained historic buildings and not carbon copy purpose-built estate pubs, have a real charm and atmosphere about them, and The King's Head is no exception. You can fully believe that this would have been a real beacon for coach travellers seeking shelter in the 15th century and later. The beer is good, as you'd expect, and the pub feels cosy. Perhaps there's something else adding to the atmosphere though. The pub features on the Lichfield ghost walk, and for good reason. Eerie things go on, both inside and outside these walls. A ghostly light is often seen flickering in an upstairs window, supposedly linked to the story of a maid who died in a fire. On the pavement outside, a mortally wounded Cavalier has been seen wandering, laughing at his own predicament. A ghost called George is also believed to be in residence. Whether he is linked to either of the other figures, or is a separate entity, remains unclear. Either way, it would be easy to feel uneasy when drinking alone here on a quiet winter's evening. Luckily for me, it was still light out. I did drink my Wainwright a tad faster than usual though.
The second Marston's pub of the trip originally opened in 1838, the coronation year of Queen Victoria. The modest facade gives way to a traditional two roomed layout, now knocked through into one. The bar area, the larger of the rooms, has bare wood floors and a Z-shaped bar counter. The smaller room, the lounge, is carpeted. Both rooms have standard wooden furniture and there is a jukebox on the wall between both sections. The toilets are also located in the lounge. Sash windows face out onto the street and there are lanterns mounted either side of the front door. It was getting dark when I arrived here and the darkening sky made the perfect backdrop. 6 handpulls stand on the bar here and 4 of these were occupied on the day. I had the choice between Oakham JHB, Castle Rock Preservation, Marston's Pedigree and Fixed Wheel Blackheath Stout. The stout seemed like an excellent shout (unintentional rhyme klaxon!) and I soon parted with £2.75 for the privilege. I sat at a table opposite the bar, enjoying the early evening hustle and bustle. The pubs were getting busier now. At this time of year, as the nights draw in and winter descends, there are few places more snug than a pub. It helps when the beer is in good nick too, such was the case here. Blackheath Stout (5%) is a full bodied stout, brewed with both New Zealand and English hops. This results in an oaky bitterness and a finish that's packed with dark fruits. It's a very good beer and perfect for evenings such as this one. I enjoyed my time at the Queen's Head. It's an understated pub that does the simple things well.
This pub has recently been resurrected. What was formerly the Good Beer Guide 2025 listed BitterSuite, reopened in its current guise in October this year, a few short weeks before my visit, following a comprehensive refit by new owners Black Country Ales, which returned it to its original name. Anyone who remembers the Burton trip earlier this year will remember me waxing lyrical about The Dog, another pub in the same group. Needless to say, I was eager to get inside The Bridge. The building itself was operational as a pub from as early as 1904, with William Watkins serving as landlord until 1915. Inside, it is warm and welcoming. Either side of the entrance can be found areas of comfy seating, with an open fire at one end. The bar is to the rear, up a small flight of stairs, and central to a larger room which extends both left and right. The bar area is carpeted and the lighting is bright but not intrusive. Framed photos and documents relating to the pub and the wider city are displayed on the walls. Etched glass panels behind the bar display the pub name and other decorative flourishes. As to be expected in one of their own pubs, Black Country Ales have a sizable presence on the bar, although guest beers also feature. There are 10 pumps in total, 9 of which were being utilised at the time that I dropped in. The Black Country Ales offering featured BFG, Pig on the Wall, and Fireside, with guest beers in the shape of Little Eaton Delvers Drop, Rowton Area 51, Keltec Miners Gold and Salopian Darwin's Origin, with two ciders also present, in the form of Weston's Old Rosie and Lilley's Cherries & Berries. I couldn't very well not indulge in a Black Country Ales beer, and so I dropped £2.25 on a half of Fireside and clambered onto a high stool opposite the bar. The Fireside was excellent. Black Country do some fantastic beers and do an excellent job of keeping them in tip top condition. At 5%, Fireside is billed as a premium bitter, with an amber colour. It boasts aromas of fruity hops, and a clean taste, before a pleasant, dry finish. I was pleased I'd stopped off here. I wasn't sure what to expect when I found out it had changed owners but I should have known better than to doubt Black Country Ales. This really is a fantastic pub. Welcoming and warm and with a distinct impression that, not only do the staff know what they're doing, but they enjoy doing it and enjoy bringing people into their space. This is a proper pub, with beer and service done well. More than that, it's a place that's a joy to be in. Much like its sister pub in Burton, I could have spent hours, nay, days sat in here, ignoring the trials and tribulations of the outside world, and I wouldn't have cared. Unfortunately, the nature of my task meant I had to away from here. More's the pity.
This Good Beer Guide 2025 listed micropub has been operating for more than a decade. It opened in 2014, becoming Lichfield's first micropub in the process. The building it occupies was originally a house belonging to the local Larkin family but was most recently a clothes shop before being converted to pub use. The current owners took over in 2023 and have continued to build on the pub's reputation, which saw it win the local CAMRA Pub of the Year award within 12 months of opening. Inside, it's an intimate venue, with a capacity of 45, 25 of which is seated. The bar sits towards the rear of the room, with a toilet located just beyond. Seating is arranged throughout, largely around the edge of the room to allow for easier access. A feature wall includes artwork and original paintings. As well as beer, and plenty of it, spirits and wines are available. Unsurprisingly given the name, dogs are welcome, with under 18s allowed until 8.30pm. 6 handpulls take pride of place on the bar, primarily offering beer alongside a single cider. There was an interesting selection here too. Pig & Porter Yes, No, Wait, Sorry, Duration Sparkler, Brew York Schooner Matata, North Riding Cappuccino Stout, and Three Blind Mice Milk Worm made up the beer options, Somerset Scrumpy from Lilley's available for those of a cider persuasion. I was pleased that my last pub of the day was a micropub and now I just had to choose a beer. In the end, I went for the Sparkler (4.3%) and paid £2.35 for a half. This proved to be a very good choice. It's a pale ale, hopped with Idaho 7, which just so happens to be one of my favourite hops. This gives the beer orange peel, apricot and pine flavours, with a gentle bitterness. It went down a treat and rounded off the day with a bang. The Whippet is a cracking little place. There were a few other customers who clearly agree as well! Nestled amongst the bigger pubs and bars of an area of high foot traffic, it's always encouraging to see smaller venues doing so well, regardless of how established they are. There's nothing quite like the intimacy and comfort of a micropub. There's a reason the model works so well and why so many pubs of this ilk are springing up across the land. Long may that particular movement continue.
