I always have a good time in Lincolnshire. As conversation starters go, I realise that this one is a bit random, but it's the truth. Every trip I've ever made to England's second largest county has been a success. Last year's outings, to Stamford and Boston respectively, surpassed my expectations and so too did a trip to Lincoln that Amy and I embarked on in 2019. Even before that, all the way back to a trip to Grantham in 2017, I've been, at times, pleasantly surprised by what Lincolnshire can have to offer, even outside of the tried and tested destinations. So, when my good friend Roger, otherwise known as Dog, suggested a trip to the neighbouring towns of Cleethorpes and Grimsby, I jumped at the chance to once again explore some new locations, particularly if it meant revisiting an area with such a proven track record. Last week, these plans came to fruition.
I must admit that neither Cleethorpes or Grimsby had been on my radar to begin with. On paper, they don't jump out as the kind of places that would have much of a pub scene to write home about, let alone a reputation for real ale. However, some research soon indicated that there was perhaps more to enjoy than meets the eye. Both locations have a handful of venues that it seemed would be worth a shout, even if the whole trip in general came about from a massive change of plan. Originally, Huddersfield would have been our destination but this was curtailed when we discovered that Huddersfield station is currently closed for massive renovations and we'd be placing our trust in that most dreaded of vehicles: a rail replacement bus. That plan is on the backburner, at least for the time being, and so we needed an alternative. Dog had been to Grimsby in the past but never Cleethorpes and I'd neglected both so it would be a learning experience for both of us.
Before we get to the nitty gritty, for those with an interest in what makes these towns, well, interesting, here's a bit of background. Feel free to gloss over this if you're not so bothered. Cleethorpes is a seaside town on the estuary of the Humber in North East Lincolnshire, with a population of 29,678 in 2021. It has been permanently occupied since the 6th century, with fishing as its original industry, then developing into a resort in the 19th century. Before becoming a unified town, Cleethorpes was made up of the three small villages of Itterby, Oole and Thrunscoe.
The town lies on the Prime meridian, also known as the Greenwich meridian, and its average annual rainfall is amongst the lowest in the British Isles.
In 2021, The Trainline named Cleethorpes beach the second best seaside destination in the UK that is reachable by train, just behind Margate.
Before becoming a unified town, Cleethorpes was made up of three small villages: Itterby, Oole and Thrunscoe, which were part of a wider parish called Clee (centred on Old Clee) named from clee, an old form of the word clay. The name Cleethorpes is of comparatively recent origin, combining the parish Clee with thorp, an Old English/Old Norse word for "village". The earliest attestations are 1552 for singular Clethorpe (meaning Itterby) and 1588 for plural Clethorpes (including Oole, adjacent to Itterby; later also Thrunscoe slightly to the south).
Whilst there are Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in the area, permanent occupation appears to date from the 6th century, with substantial communities appearing only in the 9th century when the Danes arrived.
The manor of Itterby was purchased in 1616 by the trustees of Peter Blundell's charity for the benefit of scholars and fellows at Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge from Blundell's School, Tiverton.
Cleethorpes developed as a fishing village. By the time of the 1801 census the population was 284. The 1820s saw the first developments of Cleethorpes as a health holiday resort, with sea-bathing and the taking of medicinal waters becoming fashionable. By 1831 the population had increased to 497.
In 1842 the Clee Inclosure Act 1842 (5 & 6 Vict. c. 1 Pr.) was enacted. 2,100 acres (8.5 km2) of land were divided among land owners and eight new roads developed. In 1848 Cleethorpes was described as
"...much resorted to as a bathing-place, for which it is highly eligible; the air is pure, the scenery good and besides a few lodging-houses and smaller inns, there is a large hotel, built some years since, on an eminence embracing extensive views of the sea, the Humber, and the Yorkshire coast. Many of the population are employed in the oyster-fisheries."
The resort expanded following the linking of the town by railway with industrial towns in Yorkshire. Cleethorpes Pier opened in 1873 and the promenade in 1885. Cleethorpes with Thrunscoe was created as a Local Board of Health District in 1873, and under the Local Government Act 1894 it became an urban district. Its headquarters was established at Cleethorpes Town Hall in 1905.
In 1916 the urban district was renamed Cleethorpes, and in 1922 and 1927 the town's boundaries were extended to include part of Humberston (as far as North Sea Lane) and the Beacon Hill area of Weelsby parish. In 1936 Cleethorpes was granted a charter of incorporation to become a municipal borough.
Cleethorpes successfully resisted attempts by Grimsby to absorb it and in 1974 it became the Borough of Cleethorpes within the new county of Humberside. However, when Humberside County Council was abolished in 1996, Cleethorpes Borough Council was joined with Grimsby Borough Council as the unitary authority of North East Lincolnshire. In 2009 North East Lincolnshire Council agreed to market the towns of Grimsby, Immingham and Cleethorpes, under the 'Greater Grimsby' banner.
Local residents from Lincolnshire and the Yorkshire and Humber area affectionately refer to Cleethorpes and its residents as Meggies. Cleethorpes can also be known as "down beach".
Grimsby or Great Grimsby is a port town with a population of 86,138 (as of 2021). It is located near the mouth on the south bank of the Humber that flows to the North Sea. Grimsby adjoins Cleethorpes directly to the south-east, forming a conurbation. It is the administrative centre of the borough of North East Lincolnshire, which alongside North Lincolnshire is officially part of the Yorkshire and the Humber region. Grimsby is 45 mi (72 km) north-east of Lincoln, 33 mi (53 km) (via the Humber Bridge) south-east of Hull, and 50 mi (80 km) east of Doncaster.
Grimsby has notable landmarks including Grimsby Minster, Port of Grimsby, Cleethorpes Beach and Grimsby Fishing Heritage Centre. Grimsby was once the home port for the world's largest fishing fleet around the mid-20th century, but fishing then fell sharply. The Cod Wars denied UK access to Icelandic fishing grounds and the European Union used its Common Fisheries Policy to parcel out fishing quotas to other European countries in waters within 200 nmi (370 km) of the UK coast. Grimsby suffered post-industrial decline like most other industrial towns and cities in the UK.
Food production has been on the rise in Grimsby since the 1990s. The Grimsby–Cleethorpes conurbation acts as a cultural and economic centre for much of north and east Lincolnshire. Grimsby people are called Grimbarians. The term codhead is also used jokingly, often for football supporters. Great Grimsby Day is 22 January. Grimsby is the second largest settlement by population in Lincolnshire after Lincoln.
There is archaeological evidence of a small town of Roman workers in the area in the 2nd century AD during Roman occupation. Located on The Haven, which flowed into the Humber, the site long provided a location for ships to shelter from approaching storms. It was well placed to exploit the rich fishing grounds in the North Sea.
Sometime in the 9th century AD, Grimsby was settled by Danes. Local folklore claims that the name Grimsby derives from Grim, a Danish (as an old term closer to "Viking") fisherman. The common toponymic suffix -by is derived from the Old Norse word býr for village (compare with Norwegian: by, Danish: by and Swedish: by). The legendary founding of Grimsby features in a medieval romance, the Lay of Havelock the Dane, but historians see this account as a myth.
In Norse mythology, Grim (Mask) and Grimnir (Masked One) are names adopted by the deity Oðin (Anglo-Saxon Woðen) when travelling incognito amongst mortals, as in the short poem known as "Grimnir's Sayings" (Grimnismal) in the Poetic Edda. The intended audience of the Havelock tale, recorded much later as the Lay of Havelock the Dane, may have taken the fisherman Grim to be Odin in disguise.
The Oðinic name "Grimr/Grim" occurs in many English place names in the historical Danelaw and elsewhere in Britain. Examples are numerous earthworks named Grimsdyke. Other British place names with the element Grim are explained as referring to Woðen/Oðin (e.g. Grimsbury, Grimspound, Grime's Graves, Grimsditch, Grimsworne), and Grimsby is likely to have the same derivation.
Grimsby is listed in the Domesday Book of 1086 as having a population of around 200, a priest, a mill, and a ferry.
In the 12th century, Grimsby grew into a fishing and trading port, at one time ranking twelfth in importance to the Crown for tax revenue. The town gained its charter from King John in 1201. The first mayor was installed in 1202.
Grimsby had no town walls. It was too small and felt to be protected by the marshland around it. However, the town dug a defensive ditch.
Grimsby in medieval times had two parish churches, St Mary's and St James. St James, now Grimsby Minster, remains. It is associated with a folk tale of an imp who played tricks in the church and was turned into stone by an angel. A similar tale is told of Lincoln Cathedral.
In the mid-14th century, Grimsby benefited from the generosity of Edmund de Grimsby, a local man who became a senior Crown official and judge in Ireland.
In the 15th century, The Haven began to silt up, preventing ships in the Humber from docking. As a result, Grimsby entered a long period of decline until the late 18th century. In 1801, the population of Grimsby was 1,524, around the size it had been in the Middle Ages. By 1810 Joseph Smedley was hiring a purpose built theatre for seven Guineas.
In May 1796, the Grimsby Haven Company was formed by the Great Grimsby (Lincoln) Harbour Act 1796 (36 Geo. 3. c. 98), also known as the Grimsby Haven Act 1796, for the purpose of "widening, deepening, enlarging, altering and improving the Haven of the Town and Port of Great Grimsby". After the dredging of The Haven and related improvement in the early 19th century, Grimsby grew rapidly as the port boomed, importing iron, timber, wheat, hemp, and flax. New docks were needed to cope with the expansion. The necessary works were allowed under the Grimsby Docks Act 1845 (8 & 9 Vict. c. ccii).
In 1848, the arrival of the railway eased the transport of goods to and from the port to markets and farms. Coal mined in the South Yorkshire coalfields was brought by rail and exported through Grimsby. Rail links direct to London and the Billingsgate Fish Market allowed fresh "Grimsby fish" to gain nationwide renown. The first true fish dock opened in Grimsby in 1856, and the town became central to the development of the commercial fishing industry.
The Dock Tower was completed in 1851, followed by the Royal Dock in 1852. No.1 Fish Dock was completed in 1856, followed by No.2 Fish Dock in 1877. Alexandra Dock and Union Dock were completed in 1879. During this period, the fishing fleet was much expanded. In a rare reversal of usual trends, large numbers of fishermen from the south-east and Devon travelled north to join the Grimsby fleet. Over 40 per cent of the newcomers came from Barking in East London and other Thames-side towns.
In 1857, there were 22 vessels in Grimsby. Six years later there were 112. The first two legitimate steam trawlers built in Britain were based in Grimsby. A gale in February 1889 resulted in the loss of fifteen smacks and 70 to 80 lives. At that time it was thought to be one of the most serious losses to a single port.
By 1900, a tenth of the fish consumed in the United Kingdom was landed there, although there were also many smaller coastal fishing ports and villages involved. The demand for fish in Grimsby meant that at its peak in the 1950s it claimed to be the largest fishing port in the world. The population grew from 75,000 in 1901 to 92,000 by 1931.
The Great Depression and restructured fishing caused a sharp decline in employment. After that the population was fairly stable for the rest of the 20th century.
The Royal Dock became the UK's largest base for minesweepers patrolling the North Sea. The Admiralty requisitioned numerous trawlers to serve the purpose of the Royal Naval Patrol Service. Often the crew was ex-trawlermen, alongside Royal Naval Reserve and Royal Navy volunteers. Trawlers used the winches and warps from fishing operations to tow a paravane with a cutting jaw through the water in what was known as a "sweep" to bring mines to the surface and allow for their removal.
This hazardous work lost the Patrol Service more vessels than any other Royal Navy branch in the Second World War; 2,385 men died. Grimsby's Royal Naval Patrol Service veterans financed a memorial beside the Dock Tower to ensure that the bravery and sacrifice of their comrades were not forgotten.
On 14 June 1943, an early-morning air raid by the Luftwaffe dropped several 1,000-kg bombs, 6,000 incendiary bombs and over 3,000 Butterfly Bombs in the Grimsby area, killing 99 people. In total, Second World War bombing raids in Grimsby and Cleethorpes killed 196, while another 184 were seriously injured. The Butterfly Bombs that littered the area hampered fire-fighting crews trying to reach locations damaged by incendiary bombs. The search for bodies continued for a month after the raid.
HMS Grimsby is a Sandown class minehunter (commissioned in 1999) currently in service in the Royal Navy.
After the pressures placed on the industry during the Cod Wars and the European Union's Common Fisheries Policy, which redistributed fishing quotas to other EU nations, many Grimsby firms decided to cease trawling operations there. The sudden demise of the industry brought an end to a way of life and community that had lasted for generations. The loss of the fishing industry brought severe economic and social problems for the town. Huge numbers became redundant, highly skilled in jobs that no longer existed, and struggled to find work ashore. As with the Ross Group, some firms concentrated on expanding industries within the town, such as food processing.
Grimsby's trawling days are remembered through artefacts and permanent exhibits at the town's Fishing Heritage Centre. A preserved 1950s trawler, Ross Tiger, is located here. Few fishing vessels still operate from Grimsby's docks, but the town maintains a substantial fish market important in Europe.
Grimsby was struck by an F1/T3 tornado on 23 November 1981, as part of a record-breaking nationwide tornado outbreak that day. From the mid-1980s, the former Humber ferry PS Lincoln Castle has been moored in Alexandra Dock. She was used during this time as a pub\restaurant, but despite her design and status as Britain's last coal-fired paddle steamer, the catering no longer yielded a profit. The ship was broken up in 2010. Berthed in Alexandra Dock is the Ross Tiger, the last survivor of what was once the world's largest fleet of sidewinder trawlers.
The town was described in The Daily Telegraph in 2001 as one "subjected to... many crude developments over the past 30-odd years" and a town which "seemingly shuns the notion of heritage." Redevelopment was planned as part of Yorkshire Forward's Renaissance Towns Programme, but the scheme was abandoned in 2012.
In the early 21st century, the town faced the challenges of a post-industrial economy on top of the decline in its fishing industry. The East Marsh ward of the town is the second most deprived in the country, according to government statistics.
With the, admittedly long-winded, history stuff out of the way, let's get to it shall we? The first task for Dog and I would be in reaching our intended location. Grimsby and Cleethorpes are linked by a short-distance train service whereas Grimsby itself is reachable directly from Nottingham via train, with no changes. There is a caveat here though. Only every other train goes to Grimsby, with the intervening services only going as far as Lincoln. With the journey being around 2 hours, an early start would be required. We embarked on the 8.33 service from Nottingham and were soon slicing eastwards through the countryside. Hills soon gave way to the flatter expanse of the Fens as morning mist began to burn away in the heat of the sun. It would end up being an unexpectedly warm and pleasant day, with an equally unexpected amount of walking, but more on all of that later. As we reached our destination, the site of massive warehouses and dockside cranes loomed into view on the horizon. My hopes that we would be close enough, and the day clear enough, to see the Humber Bridge were dashed. We disembarked at Grimsby's surprisingly extravagant station and, after a few short minutes, boarded the local connection to Cleethorpes, a journey which takes around 10 minutes. For reasons of both geography and, so we thought, ease of travel, we would be starting our day in Cleethorpes and returning to Grimsby in plenty of time to visit some pubs there before our return train. Cleethorpes station is a decidedly open air affair, running parallel to the seafront. It was into this fine sea air that we would now dismount. Despite its small size and location, Cleethorpes station is blessed with not one, but two, pubs, one on each of its platforms. One of these would be opening later in the day and then we'd pay it a visit on our return. Handily though, the other such place was already open and would be our jumping off point for the day's activities. Heading away from the platform and towards what passes for a concourse, we soon located our first stop, No. 2 Refreshment Room.
Known locally as 'Under the Clock' due to the presence of the station clock tower directly above, this small establishment is the result of the successful conversion of the station's former refreshment room. It is entirely enclosed under the station roof and located at the end of platform 2. The outside area acts a beer garden, with wooden benches and a gate that allows access. Inside, a small, cosy pub awaits. The room is L-shaped, with the bar to one side. Seating is found mostly in the long arm of the 'L' consisting of banquettes around the perimeter, scrubbed wooden tables and iron-backed chairs. The walls are adorned with pump clips and memorabilia, including some from sadly defunct breweries, primarily in a railway theme. Union flag bunting hangs from the ceiling, although it is unclear whether this is a permanent feature. There are two TVs, one in each part of the 'L'. The small arm features a couple of poser tables and a large mirrored wall to the end. The pub is featured in the 2025 Good Beer Guide and has built a sizable reputation for both its beer and cider, reflected in one wall being dominated with various CAMRA awards. The curved bar drew our attention immediately, with its bank of 7 handpulls. 4 of these happened to be in use, offering a choice between Sharp's Solar Wave, Sharp's Sea Fury, Ossett White Rat and Rudgate Ruby Mild. Dog and I were about to put the pub's beer plaudits to the test. We opted for a half each of the White Rat, which totalled a very reasonable £3.90, and retreated to a table opposite the entrance. Bloody hell, what a way to start the day off! The White Rat was in excellent condition. I've had it before, in a few different places, and I'm not sure whether it's ever been as good as it was here, even in its native Yorkshire. We were impressed. As starter pubs go, this place is great. The beer is well kept, the welcome is warm and it's a very good use of a not particularly big space. It's worth noting that the pub has no public toilets. The closest ones are on the station concourse a few feet away. The pub also opens from 8.30am, although this can be subject to change. Cleethorpes is a seaside town so it's worth bearing in mind that business can be very seasonal. Regardless, our day had started off strongly.
When researching pubs to include in Cleethorpes, one jumped out at me that I decided we had to visit. I've visited many strange, unusual and interesting pubs in my time and the next one on the itinerary certainly qualified in that category. To get there, we would need to do a bit of walking. At the time, I intended for this to be the longest walk of the day. For reasons that will become clear later, it didn't end up panning out that way. The advantage of being by the seaside, meant that we could take a stroll along the front, and so we did just that. Having left the station, we turned left and then right onto the main promenade. Our next stop is located effectively at the end of the seafront so we made our way along, taking in our surroundings, the sea view, the local landmarks and the fact that the tide here goes very far out indeed. We took a few photos and kept on going. We passed the local leisure centre and continued. By this time, we were off the seafront proper and walking in the direction of a local retail park and small heritage railway, a novel attraction which sees a miniature steam locomotive, operated by a conductor (who, I must stress, is not miniature and clearly a fully grown man) convey people along a short track between two junctions. At each end, there is a shop and there is also a cafe. There's something else there too, as I'll explain. After approximately 30 minutes or so, we came to a car park, which serves the railway and can be also be used by visitors to the retail park opposite. We had reached the end (or start) of the heritage rail line, with its platform building laid out before us. The reason for our trek? The Signal Box Inn.
Welcome to the 'smallest pub on the planet'. Self-proclaimed and yet to be officially verified as such, this tiny place is exactly what is says it is. A genuine former signal box, taken from a Scunthorpe steelworks, was converted to a pub in 2006. The internal footprint is just 8" x 8" and will fit about 6 people at a push. The bar, unsurprisingly takes up the entire of the interior, barring a small service space and a handful of small stools. Thankfully, there is ample seating on the neighbouring station platform in the form of picnic tables. The toilets are on the platform of the light railway. It should be obvious by this point why I wanted to visit. I could not pass up the opportunity to visit the smallest pub on the planet. Dog was chuffed by it too, and we hadn't even ordered a beer yet! Happily, the Signal Box serves real ale. A bank of 4 sits on the tiny bar, and a duo of these were occupied, with a choice between Bristol Beer Factory Day Raider and Treen's Classic. Both these beers were a long way from their respective homes. I was unfamiliar with Treen's, who it turns out are based in Truro. Following our walk, we needed more than a half to get our breath back. A pint of the Treen's for me and a pint of Hawkstone Lager for Dog set us back £10.40. Upon our arrival, the lady on duty was cleaning outside. She came in, saw that we needed serving and then, amusingly, had to go back outside and round the back to get behind the bar. We weren't waiting long though and soon enough we were sat outside, with a handful of other likeminded people and their canine companions. The walk had been worth it to see this place. Plus, the beer was excellent. Classic (4.3%) is an amber bitter. Flavours of caramel and soft fruit balance against dark chocolate and a spicy, hop bitterness. It was an utter delight! I thoroughly enjoyed it. It wasn't too bitter or too sweet. Everything seemed to balance perfectly. In short, this beer was a triumph. The Signal Box had delivered and made the slog from the seafront fade into a blurry memory. Just a couple of things to note: the pub is only open from the first Friday before Easter until mid-October. If conditions are favourable, these hours are extended until mid-November but for weekends only. It's also worth mentioning that, due to the licensing regulations, drinks are served in reinforced plastic glasses, although that's not enough of an issue to detract from the overall quality.
During our walk from the train station, we had managed to locate several other of our intended stops. This meant that our return walk would be broken up nicely as we wound our way back. Retracing our steps, we this time veered away from the seafront, and headed up High Cliff Road. After a short time, our next stop appeared in front of us. There's way to say this without it sounding like an innuendo, so I'll just come out with it. We went to Willy's.
Overlooking the Humber from a slightly raised position, this Good Beer Guide 2025 listed venue, also features its own microbrewery in an adjoining building to the rear. The mock Tudor interior hides a modern, industrial-style interior, with high ceilings, skylights and exposed ductwork. The curved bar is opposite the door. Seating takes the form of modern tables and chairs. Lighting is subtle and the walls feature nautical theming, amongst a general minimalist approach. The toilets are located to the rear, where you will also find a window through which the adjacent brewery can be seen. The whole aesthetic gives the impression of a cafe bar. On the bar, there are 3 handpulls. On the day, all of these were being utilised. Willy's Original, brewed next door, sat alongside Fat Cat Marmalade Cat and Ossett USA, from their hop showcase series. I chose the Marmalade, from Norwich's Fat Cat, whilst Dog settled for Guinness, with a half of each totalling the rather random amount of £4.63. We selected a table towards the back and absorbed our environment. So far, each venue had been very different and Willy's continued that theme. It's a much more contemporary, sophisticated locale in comparison to the two previous pubs. This can only be a good thing. The more pubs that are ploughing their own furrow, and championing good beer in the process, the better. And I can confirm that the beer here is good. Marmalade Cat (5.5%) is copper in colour, with a malty body and a finish that is all bitter orange. It's a unique beer to say the least, but it certainly hits the spot. It didn't take long at all for our drinks to have seemingly vanished from our glasses and it was time to relocate. Willy's had been a good place to stop. We would definitely come again. Stop it.
We really didn't have far to go for pub number 4. It happens to be located right next door. Next on our list was Smugglers.
Eschewing the first piece of advice we were given, we continued on our way up High Cliff Road until we reached the junction with Seaview Street, where we turned left. Nottingham House would be our next stop.
This former Tetley's pub began life as two cottages, which were built in 1856. Since converted into a pub, it consists of three internal rooms, a bar, lounge and snug, all served from a central servery. This layout dates from a 1950s remodel, combined with pre-war features and some details left from a 1980s refurbishment by Tetley's. Open fires feature in the colder months. A refurbishment in July of this year was sympathetic to the layout and refitted the exterior, keeping the Tetley's sign above the door. This place is stunning to look at inside. Each room has kept its charm, with feature coving, whitewashed walls, simple furniture and traditional carpets. Photos and paintings are mounted on the walls and there is bric-a-brac throughout. Toilets are to the rear. Despite the misgivings of the landlord at Smugglers, Nottingham House is listed in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. Its 6 handpulls are split into two banks of 3, offering an interesting range of options. On the day in question, we had a choice between Theakston Quencher, Timothy Taylor Landlord, Wainwright, Ossett Blonde, Titanic Plum Porter and Tetley Bitter. On this occasion, I swung for the Plum Porter and Dog opted for the Landlord. A half of each came to £4.60. We spent our time here adjacent to the bar, in the smaller of the three rooms. This place is a real gem. I don't think either of us expected such a charming, traditional pub tucked down a quiet side street. For the record, they serve an absolutely belting drop of Plum Porter. Our previous host had been mistaken. We'd soon see how his food recommendation held up.
Before food though, we decided to squeeze another half in. Continuing on our way, we soon realised that we were only a short distance from the station. We'd turn back on ourselves for food but another stop on the list was looming large in front of us. After a brief detour to photograph an excellent mural on the side, we entered The Old Vic.
Built in 1871, what was once the Victoria Hotel was at one time leased to local brewers Hewitt's. The current incarnation has seen the internal layout opened out around a central bar, with some smaller tucked away areas still available. Scrubbed wooden furniture is the order of the day. There is a large patio area at the rear. Once again, looks can be deceiving. Despite its more conventional appeal, the Old Vic was named by the local CAMRA branch as its Pub of the Season for Summer 2024. This has undoubtedly led to the pub's continued commitment to real ale. Three handpumps take centre stage on the bar, with a mix of local and not so local providers. Beartown Lit, Theakston Old Peculier and Docks Cleethorpes Pale Ale were our choices here. It would have been rude not to have given the Cleethorpes Pale a go and it turned out to be a choice well made, with two halves costing us a bafflingly cheap £3.10. At 4.2%, it's very sessionable but also takes locality very seriously with the use of sea buckthorn berries, native to the area, in the brew. This elevates the beer with a sharp tang of sweetness, alongside the crispness of Citra hops. It's a surprise but a pleasant one. The Old Vic is one of those pubs where you get a lot more than you expect. Cleethorpes was turning out to be a little bit of a gem.
It was food time now. It was only fair to test out the second recommendation that we'd been given. Boy, did that prove to be a good idea! A short distance from the Old Vic, on a corner, we found Steel's Corner House Restaurant. It was like stepping back in time. Active since 1946, the restaurant still has a post-war feel about it. There are booths with chequered curtains dividing them, staff in 40s style uniform and even an old school traffic light system for running food. Speaking of the food: wow. We were urged to make sure we ordered fish and chips and to ensure it was the medium portion. This was excellent advice. The portion sizes are gigantic. And that's before you even get to the bread and butter that comes with it. We entered hungry and left very very full. Without a doubt, hand on heart, this was the best fish and chips I've ever eaten. Yes, even better than that one in Whitby. Soft, flaky fish, crispy batter and fluffy chips. Just what was needed. If only we didn't have another few hours of drinking to contend with! Leaving Steel's, we waddled our way back to the station. Our plan from this point was to either get the train or a taxi back to Grimsby, but not before we'd checked out the other pub at the station first! Located on platform 1, you will find the simply named No. 1 Pub.
Another Good Beer Guide 2025 listed venue, this place prides itself on being 'a train pub, not a chain pub'. The building it occupies is one of the original station buildings, decorated and repurposed to a very high standard. Entering from the car park side brings you into a large floor space, which features a pool table. The raised bar sits beyond this, serving both the main room and a smaller area behind. There is a raised area next to the bar, which offers a bit more quietness and seclusion. A tiny passage links this to an even smaller room, featuring additional seating. Unsurprisingly, the majority of the decor is train and railway related. The bar features 8 handpulls, in two banks of 4.4 of these happened to be in use, offering up Rudgate Ruby Mild, Batemans Combined Harvest, Hobgoblin Gold and Bass. Being in Lincolnshire, the chance to partake in some Batemans was not to be sniffed at. Dog needed something lighter after our food-based indulgences, so switched to gin and tonic. This and a half of the Combined Harvest somehow only came to £6.50. What a place this turned out to be. In some ways, it can be seen as a little sister to some of the more grandiose station pubs up and down the country. Not only is it a comfortable place for a drink, you could easily forget that you were waiting for a train, or even at a station in the first place. The beer quality adds to the sense of homeliness. Combined Harvest (4.7%) is a dark golden beer, notable for being the first beer Batemans have brewed using multiple grains. The use of barley, wheat, oats and rye gives big full biscuity flavours, accompanied by quenching flavours of hops and citrus fruit. Today had been full of surprises!
Recovered from our fish and chips based coma, and revitalised by our latest beverages, we formulated a plan. During our short stay at No.1 Pub, we'd missed a train back to Grimsby, with the next one due in half an hour. We could have waited but we were both of the assertion that the quicker we could get back to Grimsby, the longer we would have to enjoy time there and ensure we were in plenty of time for our train. Our next solution was to order an Uber. Except, well, it turns out that Uber isn't available in Grimsby, at the very least not at mid-afternoon on a Thursday. Even though it lets you confirm your location and holds the fee until you cancel. We had no choice. Neither of us knew anything about the local buses so we resolved to slog it on foot. We had a trio of pubs lined up in Grimsby. Google Maps assured us that the first of these was about half an hour away. Off we go.
Negotiating our way away from the station and through a housing estate, we eventually emerged onto Cleethorpe Road, one of the main thoroughfares between the two settlements. This meant that going straight along this road would take us straight back into Grimsby, with a stop at our next pub on the way. Walking such a long distance, basically to another town, had its pros and cons. On the plus side, the weather was nice so we weren't getting piss wet through. On the down side, the weather was nice and neither of us had sunglasses or sun cream. It did at least allow us to discuss our opinions of Cleethorpes. I had really enjoyed uncovering unexpected things in this most British of seaside towns. It had surprised and delighted both of us in equal measure. As our walk continued, we passed some interesting heritage sites. In this case, I use the word 'heritage' in a satirical sense. How else would you describe the ruined church of which only the spire remains, the decidedly dodgy looking hotel opposite the entrance to the football ground, Blundell Park, the self-same football ground, home of Grimsby Town (although they actually play in Cleethorpes) and, perhaps Grimsby's greatest contribution to the local culinary palate, a takeaway selling battered Babybel? Whilst we attempted to wrap our heads around how a battered Babybel would taste, we realised that our proximity to Blundell Park meant that our next pub stop was a short distance away. We almost missed it, and would certainly have done, were it not for a tattered and faded banner on a wall in a side street, directing us to the Rutland Arms.
Don't let the rather decrepit looking facade fool you. I promise you that this is actually a pub, although it is one that appears to be in the process of a rather drastic external makeover. Opened in 1988, this was formerly an Old Mill pub, although it is now a freehouse that prides itself on being the only local outlet for Old Mill beers. It's also the only pub in the immediate vicinity, although this hasn't stopped it from being named as CAMRA's local pub of the season for Spring 2025. Inside, it's a lot more put together, as befits its credentials. It's a one-roomed pub with a small servery facing into the room. The seating is primarily booths and soft furnishings. A pool table and dartboard occupy one end of the room. There is a also a fruit machine, restricted for use by regulars only. Wooden beams, ceiling fans and whitewashed ceilings complete the look. The floor is carpeted throughout. Toilets are by the entrance. The Rutland Arms wears its beer reputation in the shape of 6 handpumps on the bar. At the time of our visit, 5 of these were in use. Alongside Lilley's Pineapple cider, there was also Garden Shed Sledge Hammer, 8 Sail Fenman Bitter, Old Mill Original and WHB Grimsby Mild. This time, I fancied a half of the Fenman Bitter from 8 Sail, whilst Dog opted for the Pineapple Lilley's. Our round came to £3.80. We made our way to the end booth to get our breath back. The Rutland Arms more than makes up for its currently nondescript outward appearance. We were given a warm welcome, which is always nice. The praises for their beer are justified. Fenman Bitter (4.1%) is exactly what you'd want and expect from the style. Amber in colour, it boasts caramel notes, toasted grain and a finish of earthy hops. It was at this point that I realised that I'd seemed to have a penchant for the darker beers so far. Either way, it was a cracking beer to quench the thirst after a walk.
Speaking of walking.......... We once again tried and failed to summon an Uber. We had no choice but to continue on towards the centre of town. We had two locations left and we were safe in the knowledge that they were close to each other but also in close proximity to the train station. This thought kept us pushing forwards, with Google Maps as our guide. Until it went rogue. At the point at which it tried to get us to walk over a bridge that was actually a dual carriageway with no footpath, we realised that something had gone amiss. Dog thought he knew where we'd gone wrong but we'd listened to Google instead. We asked a helpful bloke for directions, which seemed to set us right, until it hadn't. We looped back round and this time went the way Dog thought he'd recognised, rather embarrassingly passing the same guy again. He did offer us a lift once his car was finished at the car wash but that's how people get murdered by strangers, so we declined. Eventually, we realised that we were now on the right track. We found a footbridge that took us over a scrapyard and a railway line and then, when we got down the other side, we turned right. We'd finally found our destination, somewhere Dog has ensured me was worth visiting and I was not about to doubt him. We had arrived at Docks Beers.
This Good Beer Guide 2025 listed venue is the taproom for Docks Beers. Opened in 2018, it's a bar selling their beers in cask, keg and can and features the brewery on site. The downstairs space is largely open plan, with the bar to one side and the rest of the space given over to low comfy seating and sofas. A couple of higher tables are to one side. The brewery vessels sit along one wall, under neon lighting and exposed ductwork. The vibe is relaxed and welcoming. Upstairs is Docks Academy, a gig venue. I'd heard lots of good things about Docks Beers, even before Dog suggested it. I was very much looking forward to seeing it for myself. We certainly had a lot of beer options. As well as a large number of keg taps, there are also 3 handpulls for the real ale aficionados. These were, fairly obviously, stocked with Docks Beers, namely Bitter, Forged in Fire and Demolition. We'd definitely earned another pint after the shenanigans of getting here. A Demolition for me and a Bitter for Dog came to £9.60. We grabbed one of the high tables to once again revitalise our tired limbs. I'm a big fan of a good taproom. There's something magical about drinking a brewery's beers under the same roof in which its brewed. It almost allows you to get closer to the brewer and begin to feel the inner machinations of the work that goes into the job. Docks Beers is no exception. This is a very well put together taproom, all industrial sheen and modern trappings, without losing the connection with the customers. Plus, as you'd hope, they make fantastic beer. Demolition (4.5%) is an American pale ale, from their seasonal range. Triple hopped with Amarillo, Centennial and Nelson, it punches well above its weight with gooseberry, melon and orange flavours. It certainly demolished the aching in my legs, at least temporarily.
We had one pub left before we would call it a day. Our final stop was a pleasingly short 8 minute walk away. Leaving Docks Beers, we turned left and then turned right, before turning left again. This brought us to Victoria Street South, a main road that heads towards the centre of town. We followed this for a few minutes, and then turned right onto Frederick Ward Way. This leads in the direction of the Freshney Place shopping centre. Shortly before reaching this, we turned left and reached our final stop, looking oddly out of place. Time for The Barge.
This old converted grain barge has, in the tradition of many of its ilk, been converted into a pub. The primary difference is that this one is moored in a town centre and has a rather alarming lean to starboard. A large outside seating area leads to the entrance which takes you down a flight of stairs, perilously so due to the lean, before emerging below decks. The bar occupies a space to one side of a single, long room. Seating is around the edge, extending to the stern. The toilets are through a door at the end of the room. The unevenness of the boat becomes even more obvious when you try and navigate to, never mind use, the toilets. We entered The Barge full of hope. Avenged Sevenfold was playing over the jukebox. Thankfully it wasn't anything from either of the two most recent albums. I would have jumped overboard. The Barge is Good Beer Guide 2025 listed so I had high hopes that we would be ending on a strong note. Except that we were then immediately told that both real ales weren't available. I was disappointed. We couldn't exactly sneak out. There weren't enough people around to have pulled that off convincingly. Instead, I chose Salt Alpacalypse from the keg selection and Dog went for Stella. A pint of each, as it was the last pub and the train journey would be long, came to £10.45. We pulled up a pew almost opposite the bar and supped our final pints of the trip. I was annoyed that The Barge had let me down. I'm always fascinated as to how pubs on boats, not the most stable, are able to keep real ale in good condition. In this case, I'll have to keep wondering. To be fair, I suppose I should lighten up. Of all the pubs we visited throughout the day, the Barge was the only one not to have real ale. In that respect I should be grateful. I've had much worse returns elsewhere. At least the keg was acceptable this time. The Barge seems virtually identical to the Castle Barge in Newark, for better or for worse.
With that, we were done. We made our way back to the station, with about half an hour to spare. This turned out to be fortuitous as our scheduled train had been cancelled. Sort of. It was still running but not from Grimsby. We had to get a slightly earlier train and get off two stations later, where the train we should have been on was due to depart from. A week on, I have no idea why. From that point on, our return trip went off without a hitch. Just as well. I didn't fancy trying to get an Uber back from the middle of nowhere Lincolnshire. As ever, the journey back was an opportunity to reflect and summarise. 'Decent' is probably the perfect way to sum the day up. In general it was great. I've done a great disservice to this corner of the county by not considering a visit earlier. There's a lot to discover, both in pubs and beer. What struck me the most is how each venue felt completely different to the others. Even the two railway pubs, metres apart, somehow had completely different characters. Perhaps that reflects their surroundings. Cleethorpes and Grimsby are towns with similar histories, bonded beyond their geographical proximity. That they've been able to keep decent pubs going at all, in the face of post-industrial decline and economic pressure is something to be applauded, particularly in a town as seasonal as Cleethorpes, with its reliance on the fickle British weather. If I've learned anything from this excursion, it's that you can't judge a town by its pubs. Everywhere and everything deserves a closer look. Sometimes, what you find might surprise you. That's a lesson that everybody can learn to live by.
Pub of the day: Signal Box Inn. A novelty but genuinely quirky and worth a visit. Lives up its claim.
Honourable mention: No. 1 Pub. Excellent railway pub.
Biggest surprise: Nottingham House. Lovely interior. Classic traditional pub with unexpected charm.
Beer of the day: Treen's Classic. A belting bitter.
